Re: [bolger] Re: eating and cooking
How about one that runs on a 9 volt battery? I've seen them at Lowes. Clyde
pvanderwaart wrote:
pvanderwaart wrote:
> > The Olympian Catalytic heater is designed for safety [and is used
> > safely] in enclosed spaces, read the specs which I recall require
> 30
> > square inches of ventilation in the room for combustion.
>
> How much is a 12 volt CO detector? How much current is required?
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
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>
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Do I have this right, the Olympian is unvented? If that's the case,
it will exhaust prodigious amounts of water into the boat's interior,
as the products of combustion are CO2 and water vapor. Such a
situation may be tolerable in an RV in most environments, but would
be counterproductive in any boat kept in the water. One should also
be concerned about any such potentially dangerous equipment not
specifically designed for the marine environment. The airtight nature
of boat hulls, not to mention the corrosive effects of salt and water-
laden air, can quickly degrade and defeat the safety features of
lubberly gear.
Gas and kerosene refridgerators have been used aboard boats, but,
again, they are not designed for the job. Specifically, they cannot
tolerate the boat's motion and heeling, as these can put out the
small candle-sized flame that powers the thing. In the case of a
kerosene reefer, this is a messy but tolerable situation. With
propane, otoh, it can lead to an explosion. Multihulls are better
suited to their use, due to the gentler motion and reduced heeling.
However, both the Hiscocks and Daniel Spurr have used such gear,
cautiously but successfully, on small monohulls, so it isn't
impossible.
porky galvin
it will exhaust prodigious amounts of water into the boat's interior,
as the products of combustion are CO2 and water vapor. Such a
situation may be tolerable in an RV in most environments, but would
be counterproductive in any boat kept in the water. One should also
be concerned about any such potentially dangerous equipment not
specifically designed for the marine environment. The airtight nature
of boat hulls, not to mention the corrosive effects of salt and water-
laden air, can quickly degrade and defeat the safety features of
lubberly gear.
Gas and kerosene refridgerators have been used aboard boats, but,
again, they are not designed for the job. Specifically, they cannot
tolerate the boat's motion and heeling, as these can put out the
small candle-sized flame that powers the thing. In the case of a
kerosene reefer, this is a messy but tolerable situation. With
propane, otoh, it can lead to an explosion. Multihulls are better
suited to their use, due to the gentler motion and reduced heeling.
However, both the Hiscocks and Daniel Spurr have used such gear,
cautiously but successfully, on small monohulls, so it isn't
impossible.
porky galvin
--- In bolger@y..., "pvanderwaart" <pvanderwaart@y...> wrote:
> > The Olympian Catalytic heater is designed for safety [and is used
> > safely] in enclosed spaces, read the specs which I recall require
> 30
> > square inches of ventilation in the room for combustion.
>
> How much is a 12 volt CO detector? How much current is required?
brucehallman wrote:
on what is available, ie, is the engine running.
HJ
>My buddies RV has a dual use refrig, that is gas heat/electric depending
> --- In bolger@y..., "Larry Barker" <lgbarker@i...> wrote:
>
on what is available, ie, is the engine running.
HJ
> > fed by a 12v auto fuel pump
> ^^^
> I agree those diesel heaters and stoves look great!
>
> The Olympian Catalytic heater is designed for safety [and is used
> safely] in enclosed spaces, read the specs which I recall require 30
> square inches of ventilation in the room for combustion. The reason
> the RV'r use them is the fact that they require no electrical input,
> and conserving 12V power is critical in RV's and in many "Bolger
> type" boats too.
>
> When you operate off a battery bank, you must be willing to make
> compromises to conserve power. At the least, you should plan your
> sources of power consumption, and make a rational decision.
>
> For instance, in the Windermeyer, PB&F actually plan the use of a 12V
> refrigerator, which requires massive 12V power, and is unheard of
> among the RV'rs. The battery bank to accomplish this is necessarily
> huge, and a photovoltaic array big enough to support them would be
> giant. The Windermeyer requires time "on plug" weekly to recharge
> the batteries.
>
>
Why don't you buy the 9V-powered home version? I've got one, and I know
it works just fine.
David Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: pvanderwaart [mailto:pvanderwaart@...]
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 10:28 AM
To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: eating and cooking
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
it works just fine.
David Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: pvanderwaart [mailto:pvanderwaart@...]
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 10:28 AM
To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: eating and cooking
> The Olympian Catalytic heater is designed for safety [and is used30
> safely] in enclosed spaces, read the specs which I recall require
> square inches of ventilation in the room for combustion.How much is a 12 volt CO detector? How much current is required?
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Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> The Olympian Catalytic heater is designed for safety [and is used30
> safely] in enclosed spaces, read the specs which I recall require
> square inches of ventilation in the room for combustion.How much is a 12 volt CO detector? How much current is required?
Very true re: conserving the power. I should have mentioned that feeding
the stove seemed to be a pretty low draw operation. I don't recall the fuel
pump type but it went tick-tick-tick under load. Started fast (picture
playing card in the spokes) while presurizing the system and, as I recall,
to a tick every few seconds once the stove was going. We were running on a
couple of old 6v batteries and never had to worry about it much. It would
be a good idea to check the pump's delivery rate & draw vs. the stove's
requirements if you're on a limited system.
Larry
the stove seemed to be a pretty low draw operation. I don't recall the fuel
pump type but it went tick-tick-tick under load. Started fast (picture
playing card in the spokes) while presurizing the system and, as I recall,
to a tick every few seconds once the stove was going. We were running on a
couple of old 6v batteries and never had to worry about it much. It would
be a good idea to check the pump's delivery rate & draw vs. the stove's
requirements if you're on a limited system.
Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "brucehallman" <brucehallman@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 7:14 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: eating and cooking
> --- In bolger@y..., "Larry Barker" <lgbarker@i...> wrote:
>
> > fed by a 12v auto fuel pump
> ^^^
> I agree those diesel heaters and stoves look great!
>
> The Olympian Catalytic heater is designed for safety [and is used
> safely] in enclosed spaces, read the specs which I recall require 30
> square inches of ventilation in the room for combustion. The reason
> the RV'r use them is the fact that they require no electrical input,
> and conserving 12V power is critical in RV's and in many "Bolger
> type" boats too.
>
> When you operate off a battery bank, you must be willing to make
> compromises to conserve power. At the least, you should plan your
> sources of power consumption, and make a rational decision.
--- In bolger@y..., "Larry Barker" <lgbarker@i...> wrote:
I agree those diesel heaters and stoves look great!
The Olympian Catalytic heater is designed for safety [and is used
safely] in enclosed spaces, read the specs which I recall require 30
square inches of ventilation in the room for combustion. The reason
the RV'r use them is the fact that they require no electrical input,
and conserving 12V power is critical in RV's and in many "Bolger
type" boats too.
When you operate off a battery bank, you must be willing to make
compromises to conserve power. At the least, you should plan your
sources of power consumption, and make a rational decision.
For instance, in the Windermeyer, PB&F actually plan the use of a 12V
refrigerator, which requires massive 12V power, and is unheard of
among the RV'rs. The battery bank to accomplish this is necessarily
huge, and a photovoltaic array big enough to support them would be
giant. The Windermeyer requires time "on plug" weekly to recharge
the batteries.
> fed by a 12v auto fuel pump^^^
I agree those diesel heaters and stoves look great!
The Olympian Catalytic heater is designed for safety [and is used
safely] in enclosed spaces, read the specs which I recall require 30
square inches of ventilation in the room for combustion. The reason
the RV'r use them is the fact that they require no electrical input,
and conserving 12V power is critical in RV's and in many "Bolger
type" boats too.
When you operate off a battery bank, you must be willing to make
compromises to conserve power. At the least, you should plan your
sources of power consumption, and make a rational decision.
For instance, in the Windermeyer, PB&F actually plan the use of a 12V
refrigerator, which requires massive 12V power, and is unheard of
among the RV'rs. The battery bank to accomplish this is necessarily
huge, and a photovoltaic array big enough to support them would be
giant. The Windermeyer requires time "on plug" weekly to recharge
the batteries.
Hi. Congrats for you great web page and boat!
George Buehler is very opinionated on this issue, and he treats it in
his great boatbuilding book. If I remember well, he prefers gas to
everything else.
George Buehler is very opinionated on this issue, and he treats it in
his great boatbuilding book. If I remember well, he prefers gas to
everything else.
--- In bolger@y..., "gabrielle" <eskg@c...> wrote:
> To all,
>
> We are looking for the best way to eat and cook on Le Cabotin.
After some reseach we think that a diesel stove will be the best for
us, our plan are to travel the Strait of belle-Illes, Newfundland,
and after the french canals, to finish going down the Volga from St-
petresburg. The boat will be insulated and use as a liveaboard.
>
> So the questions:
> -1 for eating and one for cooking,?
> - Does the diesel smell?
> -is it better use Kerozen and if yes we have to store it upside so
where?
> and so on........
>
> All ideas will be welcome....
>
> Jean et Gaby
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
On Sat, 12 Jan 2002, gabrielle wrote:
stove. It didn't smell-but we had a pretty big one.
> So the questions:In my short-lived career as a cook aboard a fish tender, we used a diesel
> -1 for eating and one for cooking,?
> - Does the diesel smell?
stove. It didn't smell-but we had a pretty big one.
I agree with Harry that the Dickinson diesels work very well. Ours also
ran off of the boat's diesel tank, fed by a 12v auto fuel pump, and was no
trouble to run at all. The real hassle was that it was too warm. Even when
the Portland OR winter East wind was blowing (cold, cold, cold), that stove
would have the cabin of a 30' sailboat up to 70 degrees (F) in 15 minutes (a
nice feature). In the summer it would drive you out at any heat setting.
So we used a butane and later (and more satisfactorily) a 2-burner alcohol
stove for most of our cooking and opened a hatch.
Finally removed the diesel because it took up so much room (amazing how much
we could store in that space). We would have kept it if we spent more time
up North or had a bigger boat and could spare the room. You Upper Midwest
and East Coast sailors (and the Alaska contingent) may like the option.
Larry Barker
Watching the snow fall in Talent, Oregon
ran off of the boat's diesel tank, fed by a 12v auto fuel pump, and was no
trouble to run at all. The real hassle was that it was too warm. Even when
the Portland OR winter East wind was blowing (cold, cold, cold), that stove
would have the cabin of a 30' sailboat up to 70 degrees (F) in 15 minutes (a
nice feature). In the summer it would drive you out at any heat setting.
So we used a butane and later (and more satisfactorily) a 2-burner alcohol
stove for most of our cooking and opened a hatch.
Finally removed the diesel because it took up so much room (amazing how much
we could store in that space). We would have kept it if we spent more time
up North or had a bigger boat and could spare the room. You Upper Midwest
and East Coast sailors (and the Alaska contingent) may like the option.
Larry Barker
Watching the snow fall in Talent, Oregon
----- Original Message -----
From: "Harry W. James" <welshman@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2002 11:10 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] eating and cooking
> I have been doing a lot of research on heat lately from a slightly more
> northerly perspective. After 2 summers using propane cook stoves, I
> would not use one again if I could avoid them. They are reliable and
> cook very well but the moisture output is tremendous in a colder
> climate. The windows were running streams. All the local (Alaska)
> commercial boats, fisherman and others use the Dickinson diesel stove or
> a variation of it.
>
>http://www.dickinsonmarine.com/index.asp
>
> I have used one for a couple of years now and it has made cruising much,
> much more enjoyable. I use a Coleman stove for those occasions when it
> is too hot for the dickinson. Diesel odor was not a factor, the fuel
> came straight from the engine tank. The stove itself has never smelled
> except for the neat stuff cooking on it. Dry and warm is a wonderful
> thing.
>
I have been doing a lot of research on heat lately from a slightly more
northerly perspective. After 2 summers using propane cook stoves, I
would not use one again if I could avoid them. They are reliable and
cook very well but the moisture output is tremendous in a colder
climate. The windows were running streams. All the local (Alaska)
commercial boats, fisherman and others use the Dickinson diesel stove or
a variation of it.
http://www.dickinsonmarine.com/index.asp
I have used one for a couple of years now and it has made cruising much,
much more enjoyable. I use a Coleman stove for those occasions when it
is too hot for the dickinson. Diesel odor was not a factor, the fuel
came straight from the engine tank. The stove itself has never smelled
except for the neat stuff cooking on it. Dry and warm is a wonderful
thing.
Here are a couple of European manufacturers.
http://www.kabola.nl/default.html
http://www.blakes-lavac-taylors.co.uk/index.htm
Wallas makes both a straight heater and a cook stove that has a fold
down fan top that makes it into a heater. If I had a small cruiser I
would use the Wallas one, or a similar one made by Toyoset. They are
both outside vented and require power.
If you have ever read Lynn Pardee's account of crossing the North
Pacific in Serafyn (SP Suspect), you can share just how miserable you
can be in northern waters with unvented propane. She's a pretty positive
person, but the fact that this was a cold, wet, miserable trip comes
through. Plus they almost died of Carbon Monoxide poisoning.
I personally would not cruise northern waters with anything but vented
diesel or wood/coal heat, if I had a say in the outfitting of the boat.
I have heard varying reports on the Espar, I think preventive
maintenance is the key. I see a lot of boat owners come through in the
summer not very happy with them, others swear by them.
HJ
Chuck Leinweber wrote:
northerly perspective. After 2 summers using propane cook stoves, I
would not use one again if I could avoid them. They are reliable and
cook very well but the moisture output is tremendous in a colder
climate. The windows were running streams. All the local (Alaska)
commercial boats, fisherman and others use the Dickinson diesel stove or
a variation of it.
http://www.dickinsonmarine.com/index.asp
I have used one for a couple of years now and it has made cruising much,
much more enjoyable. I use a Coleman stove for those occasions when it
is too hot for the dickinson. Diesel odor was not a factor, the fuel
came straight from the engine tank. The stove itself has never smelled
except for the neat stuff cooking on it. Dry and warm is a wonderful
thing.
Here are a couple of European manufacturers.
http://www.kabola.nl/default.html
http://www.blakes-lavac-taylors.co.uk/index.htm
Wallas makes both a straight heater and a cook stove that has a fold
down fan top that makes it into a heater. If I had a small cruiser I
would use the Wallas one, or a similar one made by Toyoset. They are
both outside vented and require power.
If you have ever read Lynn Pardee's account of crossing the North
Pacific in Serafyn (SP Suspect), you can share just how miserable you
can be in northern waters with unvented propane. She's a pretty positive
person, but the fact that this was a cold, wet, miserable trip comes
through. Plus they almost died of Carbon Monoxide poisoning.
I personally would not cruise northern waters with anything but vented
diesel or wood/coal heat, if I had a say in the outfitting of the boat.
I have heard varying reports on the Espar, I think preventive
maintenance is the key. I see a lot of boat owners come through in the
summer not very happy with them, others swear by them.
HJ
Chuck Leinweber wrote:
>
> Ahoy, Jean:
>
> I'm not sure if you can get propane or not, but we use a propane cook stove in our much smaller cruiser (a Jim Michalak Caprice). At times, we have used the open burner for heat. If the flame is blue, there is no CO production, but you do need to crack a porthole to make sure enough oxygen gets in. Again, this is just for cool mornings and evenings, not good for winter use.
>
> Chuck
>
> To all,
>
> We are looking for the best way to eat and cook on Le Cabotin. After some reseach we think that a diesel stove will be the best for us, our plan are to travel the Strait of belle-Illes, Newfundland, and after the french canals, to finish going down the Volga from St-petresburg. The boat will be insulated and use as a liveaboard.
>
> So the questions:
> -1 for eating and one for cooking,?
> - Does the diesel smell?
> -is it better use Kerozen and if yes we have to store it upside so where?
> and so on........
>
> All ideas will be welcome....
>
> Jean et Gaby
>
I agree that catalytics are very efficient in some ways. I had one in a travel trayler that would heat the entire space in cold weather on a medium setting using minimal fuel. The catch is that they oxidize out in the open and thereby byprducts such as carbon monoxide are thrown directly into the living space. They also consume oxygen from that same space. Extra care must be taken to provide adequate ventilation. I'm not sure how well the catalytic surface would do in the presence of salt laden air.
Larry
ehallman <brucehallman@...> wrote: --- In bolger@y..., "ghartc" <gcarlson@c...> wrote:
I have been considering the similarities between living aboard [a
boat] and living aboard [an RV], and there are many.
The "RV'rs", have opinions about heating RV's and they...
http://groups.google.com/groups?q=olympian+heater&hl=en
seem to like the Olympian catalytic safety heater. They claim that
it is very efficient with propane usage. See this heater at:
http://www.ducktec.com/msg4.htm
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Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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Larry
ehallman <brucehallman@...> wrote: --- In bolger@y..., "ghartc" <gcarlson@c...> wrote:
I have been considering the similarities between living aboard [a
boat] and living aboard [an RV], and there are many.
The "RV'rs", have opinions about heating RV's and they...
http://groups.google.com/groups?q=olympian+heater&hl=en
seem to like the Olympian catalytic safety heater. They claim that
it is very efficient with propane usage. See this heater at:
http://www.ducktec.com/msg4.htm
Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
---------------------------------
Do You Yahoo!?
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- In bolger@y..., "ghartc" <gcarlson@c...> wrote:
I have been considering the similarities between living aboard [a
boat] and living aboard [an RV], and there are many.
The "RV'rs", have opinions about heating RV's and they...
http://groups.google.com/groups?q=olympian+heater&hl=en
seem to like the Olympian catalytic safety heater. They claim that
it is very efficient with propane usage. See this heater at:
http://www.ducktec.com/msg4.htm
DIESEL/KEROSENE Wallas makes an interesting combination diesel stove
and heater, which I would expect is vented overboard, so it shouldn't
be unpleasant to use. There also have Kerosene versions. Both fuels
are quite safe and are stored internally in lots of boats in
permanent fuel tanks.
Diesel, and to a lesser extent kerosene, is unpleasant to handle, so
I might consider a convential fuel tank with deck fill. If I were to
store them internally in plastic jugs, I would plan to stabilize them
from chafe. Or, put them on deck.
In the U.S., kerosene is available only in winter for barn heaters.
99.9% of it goes to jet fuel. Of course, diesel is plentiful.
I happen to have a forced-air Espar diesel heater, which is a German
bus heater. It's a fabulous device, which provide tons of dry heat
from something like a pint an hour. For living aboard, you could
just never, ever carry enough propane to do the same job. But, it's
marvelously complex, metering pumps, igniters, controls, etc.
In general, you'll find the diesel stoves/heaters most expensive,
since the fuel has to be pumped/metered/atomized, and sometimes air
forced (electrically). The exception might be drip heaters, which I
would also expect to be sooty.
ALCOHOL Very, very safe, water-soluble fuel. Very convenient,
inexpensive stoves (e.g. Origo), but the fuel is expensive, only half
the heat output, and availability is so-so. However, they produce
lots of moisture and are quite unpleasant to be around. Fuel
formulation might make a difference.
Origo also make an unvented heater called a "heat pal", but I
couldn't imagine being indoors with one. Have never seen an alcohol
oven.
BUTANE/PROPANE DISPOSABLES Very convenient, simple, and safe to use,
but an expensive way to buy fuel. Kenyan and others make great
little stoves for the fairly common (?) disposable 8-ounce butane
cans. If I were to store them long-term in a bilge, I would make very
certain they were dry and secure.
The only portable heater I would consider is a "Buddy" by Mr. Heater
<http://www.mrheater.com/new/buddy2.htm>, which may be used inside
since it has an oxygen-depletion safety mechanism. It uses one 1-
pound propane disposable every six hours, so that's a lot of bottles.
Another option would be to refill your own bottles from a 20 pound
bottle or connect the heater to a properly-stored 20 pound bottle.
Again, these are steel bottles which can certainly rust in the bilge.
PROPANE Most common in the U.S. for stoves and heaters as it's cheap
and plentiful. Self-pressurizing, the stoves can be very, very simple
and reliable. Propane's heavier-than-air, so bottles MUST be
installed to be properly and inevitable leaks DRAINED overboard.
It would be hard to imagine carrying enough propane for heat, though
one or two 20-pound bottles will cook for a couple weeks. I
understand it's not available in Europe.
In very cold weather, propane won't flow.
Propane is not available dockside like diesel, so you are going to
hike for it while cruising.
CNG common in Europe, but not readily available in the U.S. Very
high-pressure bottles (about 3000 psi), but lighter-than-air and
safer than propane.
- - -
Diesel would seem to be easiest for you, moderately safe, cheap, and
readily available. If your stove or heater can draw from a tank, why
not think about a "real" internal fuel tank as for an auxiliary
engine? (Maybe even a diesel outboard?)
If your stove or heater uses its own tank that needs to be filled
(e.g. a "drip" style heater), then why not build a vented box on deck
for your volatiles - fuel, paints, varnish, etc? Build it around a
common plastic 5-gal. fuel cans (or whatever you have available), and
you can take your cans to a gas station and get cheaper fuel than
dockside? (Also, allow for the common 20-pound propane bottle for
future.) Add a fuel hose and rubber squeeze bulb for refills and it
should be a relatively clean operation.
Gregg Carlson
and heater, which I would expect is vented overboard, so it shouldn't
be unpleasant to use. There also have Kerosene versions. Both fuels
are quite safe and are stored internally in lots of boats in
permanent fuel tanks.
Diesel, and to a lesser extent kerosene, is unpleasant to handle, so
I might consider a convential fuel tank with deck fill. If I were to
store them internally in plastic jugs, I would plan to stabilize them
from chafe. Or, put them on deck.
In the U.S., kerosene is available only in winter for barn heaters.
99.9% of it goes to jet fuel. Of course, diesel is plentiful.
I happen to have a forced-air Espar diesel heater, which is a German
bus heater. It's a fabulous device, which provide tons of dry heat
from something like a pint an hour. For living aboard, you could
just never, ever carry enough propane to do the same job. But, it's
marvelously complex, metering pumps, igniters, controls, etc.
In general, you'll find the diesel stoves/heaters most expensive,
since the fuel has to be pumped/metered/atomized, and sometimes air
forced (electrically). The exception might be drip heaters, which I
would also expect to be sooty.
ALCOHOL Very, very safe, water-soluble fuel. Very convenient,
inexpensive stoves (e.g. Origo), but the fuel is expensive, only half
the heat output, and availability is so-so. However, they produce
lots of moisture and are quite unpleasant to be around. Fuel
formulation might make a difference.
Origo also make an unvented heater called a "heat pal", but I
couldn't imagine being indoors with one. Have never seen an alcohol
oven.
BUTANE/PROPANE DISPOSABLES Very convenient, simple, and safe to use,
but an expensive way to buy fuel. Kenyan and others make great
little stoves for the fairly common (?) disposable 8-ounce butane
cans. If I were to store them long-term in a bilge, I would make very
certain they were dry and secure.
The only portable heater I would consider is a "Buddy" by Mr. Heater
<http://www.mrheater.com/new/buddy2.htm>, which may be used inside
since it has an oxygen-depletion safety mechanism. It uses one 1-
pound propane disposable every six hours, so that's a lot of bottles.
Another option would be to refill your own bottles from a 20 pound
bottle or connect the heater to a properly-stored 20 pound bottle.
Again, these are steel bottles which can certainly rust in the bilge.
PROPANE Most common in the U.S. for stoves and heaters as it's cheap
and plentiful. Self-pressurizing, the stoves can be very, very simple
and reliable. Propane's heavier-than-air, so bottles MUST be
installed to be properly and inevitable leaks DRAINED overboard.
It would be hard to imagine carrying enough propane for heat, though
one or two 20-pound bottles will cook for a couple weeks. I
understand it's not available in Europe.
In very cold weather, propane won't flow.
Propane is not available dockside like diesel, so you are going to
hike for it while cruising.
CNG common in Europe, but not readily available in the U.S. Very
high-pressure bottles (about 3000 psi), but lighter-than-air and
safer than propane.
- - -
Diesel would seem to be easiest for you, moderately safe, cheap, and
readily available. If your stove or heater can draw from a tank, why
not think about a "real" internal fuel tank as for an auxiliary
engine? (Maybe even a diesel outboard?)
If your stove or heater uses its own tank that needs to be filled
(e.g. a "drip" style heater), then why not build a vented box on deck
for your volatiles - fuel, paints, varnish, etc? Build it around a
common plastic 5-gal. fuel cans (or whatever you have available), and
you can take your cans to a gas station and get cheaper fuel than
dockside? (Also, allow for the common 20-pound propane bottle for
future.) Add a fuel hose and rubber squeeze bulb for refills and it
should be a relatively clean operation.
Gregg Carlson
--- In bolger@y..., "gabrielle" <eskg@c...> wrote:
> We are looking for the best way to eat and cook on Le Cabotin.
After some reseach we think that a diesel stove will be the best for
us, our plan are to travel the Strait of belle-Illes, Newfundland,
and after the french canals, to finish going down the Volga from St-
petresburg. The boat will be insulated and use as a liveaboard.
>
> So the questions:
> -1 for eating and one for cooking,?
> - Does the diesel smell?
> -is it better use Kerozen and if yes we have to store it upside so
where?
> and so on........
>
> All ideas will be welcome....
>
> Jean et Gaby
Bonjour Jean et Gaby,
If I had to choose between heating or cooking with diesel or with
kerosene I would choose kerosene. Diesel stinks and handling it
stinks. So does kerosene for that matter but no way as bad as diesel.
In your situation I would be asking someone in France what is most
available and then choose.
Bob Chamberland
If I had to choose between heating or cooking with diesel or with
kerosene I would choose kerosene. Diesel stinks and handling it
stinks. So does kerosene for that matter but no way as bad as diesel.
In your situation I would be asking someone in France what is most
available and then choose.
Bob Chamberland
--- In bolger@y..., "gabrielle" <eskg@c...> wrote:
> To all,
>
> We are looking for the best way to eat and cook on Le Cabotin. After
some reseach we think that a diesel stove will be the best for us, our
plan are to travel the Strait of belle-Illes, Newfundland, and after
the french canals, to finish going down the Volga from St-petresburg.
The boat will be insulated and use as a liveaboard.
>
> So the questions:
> -1 for eating and one for cooking,?
> - Does the diesel smell?
> -is it better use Kerozen and if yes we have to store it upside so
where?
> and so on........
>
> All ideas will be welcome....
>
> Jean et Gaby
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I can't remember the reference at the present time, but memory tells
me that you'd probably be best off if you used the diesel for heating
and propane for cooking. The diesel tends to soot up a cook stove
and also provides excessive heat in the cabin during any sort of warm
weather. The propane is much more manageable...and in my estimation,
safer....than diesel for cooking.
Good luck!
me that you'd probably be best off if you used the diesel for heating
and propane for cooking. The diesel tends to soot up a cook stove
and also provides excessive heat in the cabin during any sort of warm
weather. The propane is much more manageable...and in my estimation,
safer....than diesel for cooking.
Good luck!
--- In bolger@y..., "gabrielle" <eskg@c...> wrote:
> To all,
>
> We are looking for the best way to eat and cook on Le Cabotin.
After some reseach we think that a diesel stove will be the best for
us, our plan are to travel the Strait of belle-Illes, Newfundland,
and after the french canals, to finish going down the Volga from St-
petresburg. The boat will be insulated and use as a liveaboard.
>
> So the questions:
> -1 for eating and one for cooking,?
> - Does the diesel smell?
> -is it better use Kerozen and if yes we have to store it upside so
where?
> and so on........
>
> All ideas will be welcome....
>
> Jean et Gaby
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
You might want to have a look at this site on living aboard in cold
climates.http://home.no.net/naomij/livingaboard.htmlMy experience has only
been using kerosene and gas for cooking and I would take gas every time. I
have no experience in heating boats, which may confuse the issue somewhat.
Stuart Crawford
New Zealand
climates.http://home.no.net/naomij/livingaboard.htmlMy experience has only
been using kerosene and gas for cooking and I would take gas every time. I
have no experience in heating boats, which may confuse the issue somewhat.
Stuart Crawford
New Zealand
>
> To all,
>
> We are looking for the best way to eat and cook on Le Cabotin. After some
> reseach we think that a diesel stove will be the best for us, our plan are to
> travel the Strait of belle-Illes, Newfundland, and after the french canals, to
> finish going down the Volga from St-petresburg. The boat will be insulated and
> use as a liveaboard.
>
> So the questions:
> -1 for eating and one for cooking,?
> - Does the diesel smell?
> -is it better use Kerozen and if yes we have to store it upside so where?
> and so on........
>
> All ideas will be welcome....
>
> Jean et Gaby
Ahoy, Jean:
I'm not sure if you can get propane or not, but we use a propane cook stove in our much smaller cruiser (a Jim Michalak Caprice). At times, we have used the open burner for heat. If the flame is blue, there is no CO production, but you do need to crack a porthole to make sure enough oxygen gets in. Again, this is just for cool mornings and evenings, not good for winter use.
Chuck
To all,
We are looking for the best way to eat and cook on Le Cabotin. After some reseach we think that a diesel stove will be the best for us, our plan are to travel the Strait of belle-Illes, Newfundland, and after the french canals, to finish going down the Volga from St-petresburg. The boat will be insulated and use as a liveaboard.
So the questions:
-1 for eating and one for cooking,?
- Does the diesel smell?
-is it better use Kerozen and if yes we have to store it upside so where?
and so on........
All ideas will be welcome....
Jean et Gaby
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I'm not sure if you can get propane or not, but we use a propane cook stove in our much smaller cruiser (a Jim Michalak Caprice). At times, we have used the open burner for heat. If the flame is blue, there is no CO production, but you do need to crack a porthole to make sure enough oxygen gets in. Again, this is just for cool mornings and evenings, not good for winter use.
Chuck
To all,
We are looking for the best way to eat and cook on Le Cabotin. After some reseach we think that a diesel stove will be the best for us, our plan are to travel the Strait of belle-Illes, Newfundland, and after the french canals, to finish going down the Volga from St-petresburg. The boat will be insulated and use as a liveaboard.
So the questions:
-1 for eating and one for cooking,?
- Does the diesel smell?
-is it better use Kerozen and if yes we have to store it upside so where?
and so on........
All ideas will be welcome....
Jean et Gaby
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To all,
We are looking for the best way to eat and cook on Le Cabotin. After some reseach we think that a diesel stove will be the best for us, our plan are to travel the Strait of belle-Illes, Newfundland, and after the french canals, to finish going down the Volga from St-petresburg. The boat will be insulated and use as a liveaboard.
So the questions:
-1 for eating and one for cooking,?
- Does the diesel smell?
-is it better use Kerozen and if yes we have to store it upside so where?
and so on........
All ideas will be welcome....
Jean et Gaby
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
We are looking for the best way to eat and cook on Le Cabotin. After some reseach we think that a diesel stove will be the best for us, our plan are to travel the Strait of belle-Illes, Newfundland, and after the french canals, to finish going down the Volga from St-petresburg. The boat will be insulated and use as a liveaboard.
So the questions:
-1 for eating and one for cooking,?
- Does the diesel smell?
-is it better use Kerozen and if yes we have to store it upside so where?
and so on........
All ideas will be welcome....
Jean et Gaby
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]