Re: [bolger] LED anchor lights
Yes, that is the best way to run the LEDs in standard configuration. To
pulse them to double or triple the brightness, some type of timer and second
stage is required. Only for an anchor light or running lights would I use
the pulsed method. Your method is easiest for cabin lighting.
I still like the single power supply method to run a whole series of
fixtures on a boat. Run a unique colored wire from the power supply which
regulates the voltage all around the boat and tap it for the LED strings.
Maybe a 12 ga. orange wire run down each side of the cabin and in the roof
panels that you could tap on to anywhere you want to add a LED string.
Easy, and trouble free really.
Jeff
pulse them to double or triple the brightness, some type of timer and second
stage is required. Only for an anchor light or running lights would I use
the pulsed method. Your method is easiest for cabin lighting.
I still like the single power supply method to run a whole series of
fixtures on a boat. Run a unique colored wire from the power supply which
regulates the voltage all around the boat and tap it for the LED strings.
Maybe a 12 ga. orange wire run down each side of the cabin and in the roof
panels that you could tap on to anywhere you want to add a LED string.
Easy, and trouble free really.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Spelling" <richard@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2003 8:33 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] LED anchor lights
> I just used an LM317 and a resistor, in current regulator mode, for every
three diodes.
>
> I calculated that 85% of the power was dissipated in the diodes. Not bad
for such a simple circuit.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff" <boatbuilding@...>
> To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2003 8:53 AM
> Subject: Re: [bolger] LED anchor lights
>
>
> > By the way, here is the original suggested plan for the pulse generator.
As
> > you can see was change a fair amount after my trial and error
experiments.
> > This page has a lot of theory behind how it works. Most of this was
found
> > on the internet and assemble after sifting through dozens of pages on
> > designs and theory.
> >
> >http://4dw.net/cosailor/pulse_generator.htm
> >
> > I'm sure manufacturers use different methods and they certainly would
work
> > better but this is simple enough to for the DYI person.
> >
> > Jeff
> >
> >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "plum2580" <cstroud@...>
> > > To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2003 1:23 AM
> > > Subject: [bolger] LED anchor lights
> > >
> > >
> > > > Hello, over a year ago there was a posting about a home made LED
> > > > anchor lights for minimalist power consumption. Does anyone have a
> > > > design they could share, please?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > > > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
posts
> > > > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> > > > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
> > Fax:
> > > (978) 282-1349
> > > > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > >
> > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> >http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
posts
> > > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> > > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
Fax:
> > (978) 282-1349
> > > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Here is a commercial source for LED lights. The stern light could be used as an
anchor light. It's supposed to last 100 hours on 3 AA batteries.
http://www.theledlight.com/markerlights.html
anchor light. It's supposed to last 100 hours on 3 AA batteries.
http://www.theledlight.com/markerlights.html
> Message: 20-Don
> Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 08:23:34 -0000
> From: "plum2580" <cstroud@...>
> Subject: LED anchor lights
>
> Hello, over a year ago there was a posting about a home made LED
> anchor lights for minimalist power consumption. Does anyone have a
> design they could share, please?
>
I just used an LM317 and a resistor, in current regulator mode, for every three diodes.
I calculated that 85% of the power was dissipated in the diodes. Not bad for such a simple circuit.
I calculated that 85% of the power was dissipated in the diodes. Not bad for such a simple circuit.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff" <boatbuilding@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2003 8:53 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] LED anchor lights
> By the way, here is the original suggested plan for the pulse generator. As
> you can see was change a fair amount after my trial and error experiments.
> This page has a lot of theory behind how it works. Most of this was found
> on the internet and assemble after sifting through dozens of pages on
> designs and theory.
>
>http://4dw.net/cosailor/pulse_generator.htm
>
> I'm sure manufacturers use different methods and they certainly would work
> better but this is simple enough to for the DYI person.
>
> Jeff
>
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "plum2580" <cstroud@...>
> > To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2003 1:23 AM
> > Subject: [bolger] LED anchor lights
> >
> >
> > > Hello, over a year ago there was a posting about a home made LED
> > > anchor lights for minimalist power consumption. Does anyone have a
> > > design they could share, please?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> > > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> > > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
> Fax:
> > (978) 282-1349
> > > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
> (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
By the way, here is the original suggested plan for the pulse generator. As
you can see was change a fair amount after my trial and error experiments.
This page has a lot of theory behind how it works. Most of this was found
on the internet and assemble after sifting through dozens of pages on
designs and theory.
http://4dw.net/cosailor/pulse_generator.htm
I'm sure manufacturers use different methods and they certainly would work
better but this is simple enough to for the DYI person.
Jeff
you can see was change a fair amount after my trial and error experiments.
This page has a lot of theory behind how it works. Most of this was found
on the internet and assemble after sifting through dozens of pages on
designs and theory.
http://4dw.net/cosailor/pulse_generator.htm
I'm sure manufacturers use different methods and they certainly would work
better but this is simple enough to for the DYI person.
Jeff
> ----- Original Message -----Fax:
> From: "plum2580" <cstroud@...>
> To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2003 1:23 AM
> Subject: [bolger] LED anchor lights
>
>
> > Hello, over a year ago there was a posting about a home made LED
> > anchor lights for minimalist power consumption. Does anyone have a
> > design they could share, please?
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
> (978) 282-1349http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> >(978) 282-1349
> >
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
I did a fair amount of research on design, at least from a rank amateur
standpoint and came up with a design I'm using for my lights. I have a two
year degree in electronics but it's so ancient that vacuum tubes where the
technology back then so I had to learn on the fly.
http://4dw.net/cosailor/reality_led.htm
Nothing on this page indicates how to build the actual anchor light but I'll
figure that out as I go along. Probably this winter I'll make up all my
exterior lighting. I don't care for the light emitted by diodes for cabin
lights.
Jeff
standpoint and came up with a design I'm using for my lights. I have a two
year degree in electronics but it's so ancient that vacuum tubes where the
technology back then so I had to learn on the fly.
http://4dw.net/cosailor/reality_led.htm
Nothing on this page indicates how to build the actual anchor light but I'll
figure that out as I go along. Probably this winter I'll make up all my
exterior lighting. I don't care for the light emitted by diodes for cabin
lights.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "plum2580" <cstroud@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2003 1:23 AM
Subject: [bolger] LED anchor lights
> Hello, over a year ago there was a posting about a home made LED
> anchor lights for minimalist power consumption. Does anyone have a
> design they could share, please?
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Hello, over a year ago there was a posting about a home made LED
anchor lights for minimalist power consumption. Does anyone have a
design they could share, please?
anchor lights for minimalist power consumption. Does anyone have a
design they could share, please?
How much for the solar cells and the battery?
--- In bolger@y..., "rlspell2000" <richard@s...> wrote:
> Well, the two mile visibility anchor ligth they are selling is $349.
>
> 16 bright white led's are about $40. About $1.50 for the
electronics
> for a voltage regulator. A couple of dollars more for a cheap
fixture
> from walmart.
>
> --- In bolger@y..., martin.me.roberts@b... wrote:
> >
> >
> > Very expensive? though
> >
> > Here is an interesting reference on marine LED lights.
> >
> >http://www.carmanah.com/?source=overture
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
> like
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester,
> MA,
> > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Well, the two mile visibility anchor ligth they are selling is $349.
16 bright white led's are about $40. About $1.50 for the electronics
for a voltage regulator. A couple of dollars more for a cheap fixture
from walmart.
16 bright white led's are about $40. About $1.50 for the electronics
for a voltage regulator. A couple of dollars more for a cheap fixture
from walmart.
--- In bolger@y..., martin.me.roberts@b... wrote:
>
>
> Very expensive? though
>
> Here is an interesting reference on marine LED lights.
>
>http://www.carmanah.com/?source=overture
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Very expensive? though
Here is an interesting reference on marine LED lights.
http://www.carmanah.com/?source=overture
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Here is an interesting reference on marine LED lights.
http://www.carmanah.com/?source=overture
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
You need some kind of voltage controler, or a current controler.
--- In bolger@y..., martin.me.roberts@b... wrote:
> Another comment, I was hoping the LED although more complex to set
up would
> save me from any 12v electrics and therefore not have to have any
kind of
> lead acid battery on board, but simply a set of rechargables.
>
> Can someone resolve the do I need a voltage regulator or a current
> 'controler'. As you can see I am an electronics philistine.
>
> Martin Roberts
>
> -
The don't work in reverse.
--- In bolger@y..., martin.me.roberts@b... wrote:
> I you did use a fitting would you have to be so concerned about the
LED
> directional power?
>
> Martin Roberts
> xml designer,
> BTexact Technologies
> e-mail: martin.me.roberts@b...
> tel: +44(0) 1473 643775
> fax: +44(0) 1473 646668
> pp 16 Floor 5, Orion Building, Adastral Park, Martlesham, Ipswich
IP5 3RE,
> UK
> BTexact Technologies is a trademark of British
Telecommunications
> plc
> Registered office: 81 Newgate Street London EC1A 7AJ
> Registered in England no. 1800000
> This electronic message contains information from British
> Telecommunications plc which may be privileged or confidential. The
> information is intended to be for the use of the individual(s) or
entity
> named above. If you are not the intended recipient be aware that any
> disclosure, copying, distribution or use of the contents of this
information
> is prohibited. If you have received this electronic message in
error, please
> notify us by telephone or email (to the numbers or address above)
> immediately.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rlspell2000 [mailto:richard@s...]
> Sent: 15 January 2002 14:58
> To: bolger@y...
> Subject: [bolger] Re: LED anchor lights
>
>
> LED's draw 1/10th the power of the equivilent incandecent light,
last
> 100,000+ hours, and are nearly indistructable. You can leave the
> lights on all night at anchor without draining the battery. You can
> use a cheaper solar panel to keep the batter(ies) topped off.
>
> On the other hand, they aren't cheap, and are complicated to setup.
>
> But, if that was a concern, none of us would be building boats!
>
> Perko makes fixtures, not bulbs. You could use an LED light source
> inside a Perko fixture.
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "dnjost" <djost@m...> wrote:
> > This is a thread that I just cannot figure out, I don't know why
> > LED's are preferable to the Perko lights I normally use. For
most
> > Bolger boats, I would imagine minimal nightime use. A small
marine
> > battery with standard running lights is quite simple. Why make
it
> > complicated? Perhaps I am missing something.
> >
> >
> > Perplexed in Massachusetts
> > David Jost
> >
> > >
> > > My advice is to use a current regulator that will supply the
> > correct current for the LEDs and place only 4 maybe 5 in series
> > depending on the voltage requirement of the LED. Example: Let's
> > assume 2 volts for each LED. If we connect 4 in series that's 8
> > volts. We need 2 volts for the regulator even if it's a current
> > regulator. (Actually there are low drop-out voltage regulators
> too.
> > Yes they are more expensive. Another case for getting the data
> > sheet.) So we now have a total of 10 volts. The LEDs should stay
> > bright and happy until the battery goes under 10 volts. If you
> need
> > more LEDs, place several of these series "strings" of LEDs in
> > parallel. But you must be careful how you do this. If you place
3
> > strings in parallel you must supply 3 times the current and then
> > usually place a small value resistor in each string to help
assure
> > the current divides evenly. Also be aware that the regulator and
> > resistors will also consume power. About the only way to lower
the
> > power to the minimum needed just for the LED's is to use a
current
> > sensing switching regulator and the details on how to do that are
> > beyond the scope of this message.
> > >
> > > Hope this helps and good luck.
> > >
> > > Claton Cadmus
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Another comment, I was hoping the LED although more complex to set up would
save me from any 12v electrics and therefore not have to have any kind of
lead acid battery on board, but simply a set of rechargables.
Can someone resolve the do I need a voltage regulator or a current
'controler'. As you can see I am an electronics philistine.
Martin Roberts
-
save me from any 12v electrics and therefore not have to have any kind of
lead acid battery on board, but simply a set of rechargables.
Can someone resolve the do I need a voltage regulator or a current
'controler'. As you can see I am an electronics philistine.
Martin Roberts
-
I you did use a fitting would you have to be so concerned about the LED
directional power?
Martin Roberts
xml designer,
BTexact Technologies
e-mail:martin.me.roberts@...
tel: +44(0) 1473 643775
fax: +44(0) 1473 646668
pp 16 Floor 5, Orion Building, Adastral Park, Martlesham, Ipswich IP5 3RE,
UK
BTexact Technologies is a trademark of British Telecommunications
plc
Registered office: 81 Newgate Street London EC1A 7AJ
Registered in England no. 1800000
This electronic message contains information from British
Telecommunications plc which may be privileged or confidential. The
information is intended to be for the use of the individual(s) or entity
named above. If you are not the intended recipient be aware that any
disclosure, copying, distribution or use of the contents of this information
is prohibited. If you have received this electronic message in error, please
notify us by telephone or email (to the numbers or address above)
immediately.
-----Original Message-----
From: rlspell2000 [mailto:richard@...]
Sent: 15 January 2002 14:58
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: LED anchor lights
LED's draw 1/10th the power of the equivilent incandecent light, last
100,000+ hours, and are nearly indistructable. You can leave the
lights on all night at anchor without draining the battery. You can
use a cheaper solar panel to keep the batter(ies) topped off.
On the other hand, they aren't cheap, and are complicated to setup.
But, if that was a concern, none of us would be building boats!
Perko makes fixtures, not bulbs. You could use an LED light source
inside a Perko fixture.
directional power?
Martin Roberts
xml designer,
BTexact Technologies
e-mail:martin.me.roberts@...
tel: +44(0) 1473 643775
fax: +44(0) 1473 646668
pp 16 Floor 5, Orion Building, Adastral Park, Martlesham, Ipswich IP5 3RE,
UK
BTexact Technologies is a trademark of British Telecommunications
plc
Registered office: 81 Newgate Street London EC1A 7AJ
Registered in England no. 1800000
This electronic message contains information from British
Telecommunications plc which may be privileged or confidential. The
information is intended to be for the use of the individual(s) or entity
named above. If you are not the intended recipient be aware that any
disclosure, copying, distribution or use of the contents of this information
is prohibited. If you have received this electronic message in error, please
notify us by telephone or email (to the numbers or address above)
immediately.
-----Original Message-----
From: rlspell2000 [mailto:richard@...]
Sent: 15 January 2002 14:58
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: LED anchor lights
LED's draw 1/10th the power of the equivilent incandecent light, last
100,000+ hours, and are nearly indistructable. You can leave the
lights on all night at anchor without draining the battery. You can
use a cheaper solar panel to keep the batter(ies) topped off.
On the other hand, they aren't cheap, and are complicated to setup.
But, if that was a concern, none of us would be building boats!
Perko makes fixtures, not bulbs. You could use an LED light source
inside a Perko fixture.
--- In bolger@y..., "dnjost" <djost@m...> wrote:
> This is a thread that I just cannot figure out, I don't know why
> LED's are preferable to the Perko lights I normally use. For most
> Bolger boats, I would imagine minimal nightime use. A small marine
> battery with standard running lights is quite simple. Why make it
> complicated? Perhaps I am missing something.
>
>
> Perplexed in Massachusetts
> David Jost
>
> >
> > My advice is to use a current regulator that will supply the
> correct current for the LEDs and place only 4 maybe 5 in series
> depending on the voltage requirement of the LED. Example: Let's
> assume 2 volts for each LED. If we connect 4 in series that's 8
> volts. We need 2 volts for the regulator even if it's a current
> regulator. (Actually there are low drop-out voltage regulators
too.
> Yes they are more expensive. Another case for getting the data
> sheet.) So we now have a total of 10 volts. The LEDs should stay
> bright and happy until the battery goes under 10 volts. If you
need
> more LEDs, place several of these series "strings" of LEDs in
> parallel. But you must be careful how you do this. If you place 3
> strings in parallel you must supply 3 times the current and then
> usually place a small value resistor in each string to help assure
> the current divides evenly. Also be aware that the regulator and
> resistors will also consume power. About the only way to lower the
> power to the minimum needed just for the LED's is to use a current
> sensing switching regulator and the details on how to do that are
> beyond the scope of this message.
> >
> > Hope this helps and good luck.
> >
> > Claton Cadmus
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Plus, don't forget the "koolness factor".
--- In bolger@y..., "dnjost" <djost@m...> wrote:
> This is a thread that I just cannot figure out, I don't know why
> LED's are preferable to the Perko lights I normally use. For most
> Bolger boats, I would imagine minimal nightime use. A small marine
> battery with standard running lights is quite simple. Why make it
> complicated? Perhaps I am missing something.
>
>
> Perplexed in Massachusetts
> David Jost
>
> >
> > My advice is to use a current regulator that will supply the
> correct current for the LEDs and place only 4 maybe 5 in series
> depending on the voltage requirement of the LED. Example: Let's
> assume 2 volts for each LED. If we connect 4 in series that's 8
> volts. We need 2 volts for the regulator even if it's a current
> regulator. (Actually there are low drop-out voltage regulators
too.
> Yes they are more expensive. Another case for getting the data
> sheet.) So we now have a total of 10 volts. The LEDs should stay
> bright and happy until the battery goes under 10 volts. If you
need
> more LEDs, place several of these series "strings" of LEDs in
> parallel. But you must be careful how you do this. If you place 3
> strings in parallel you must supply 3 times the current and then
> usually place a small value resistor in each string to help assure
> the current divides evenly. Also be aware that the regulator and
> resistors will also consume power. About the only way to lower the
> power to the minimum needed just for the LED's is to use a current
> sensing switching regulator and the details on how to do that are
> beyond the scope of this message.
> >
> > Hope this helps and good luck.
> >
> > Claton Cadmus
LED's draw 1/10th the power of the equivilent incandecent light, last
100,000+ hours, and are nearly indistructable. You can leave the
lights on all night at anchor without draining the battery. You can
use a cheaper solar panel to keep the batter(ies) topped off.
On the other hand, they aren't cheap, and are complicated to setup.
But, if that was a concern, none of us would be building boats!
Perko makes fixtures, not bulbs. You could use an LED light source
inside a Perko fixture.
100,000+ hours, and are nearly indistructable. You can leave the
lights on all night at anchor without draining the battery. You can
use a cheaper solar panel to keep the batter(ies) topped off.
On the other hand, they aren't cheap, and are complicated to setup.
But, if that was a concern, none of us would be building boats!
Perko makes fixtures, not bulbs. You could use an LED light source
inside a Perko fixture.
--- In bolger@y..., "dnjost" <djost@m...> wrote:
> This is a thread that I just cannot figure out, I don't know why
> LED's are preferable to the Perko lights I normally use. For most
> Bolger boats, I would imagine minimal nightime use. A small marine
> battery with standard running lights is quite simple. Why make it
> complicated? Perhaps I am missing something.
>
>
> Perplexed in Massachusetts
> David Jost
>
> >
> > My advice is to use a current regulator that will supply the
> correct current for the LEDs and place only 4 maybe 5 in series
> depending on the voltage requirement of the LED. Example: Let's
> assume 2 volts for each LED. If we connect 4 in series that's 8
> volts. We need 2 volts for the regulator even if it's a current
> regulator. (Actually there are low drop-out voltage regulators
too.
> Yes they are more expensive. Another case for getting the data
> sheet.) So we now have a total of 10 volts. The LEDs should stay
> bright and happy until the battery goes under 10 volts. If you
need
> more LEDs, place several of these series "strings" of LEDs in
> parallel. But you must be careful how you do this. If you place 3
> strings in parallel you must supply 3 times the current and then
> usually place a small value resistor in each string to help assure
> the current divides evenly. Also be aware that the regulator and
> resistors will also consume power. About the only way to lower the
> power to the minimum needed just for the LED's is to use a current
> sensing switching regulator and the details on how to do that are
> beyond the scope of this message.
> >
> > Hope this helps and good luck.
> >
> > Claton Cadmus
This is a thread that I just cannot figure out, I don't know why
LED's are preferable to the Perko lights I normally use. For most
Bolger boats, I would imagine minimal nightime use. A small marine
battery with standard running lights is quite simple. Why make it
complicated? Perhaps I am missing something.
Perplexed in Massachusetts
David Jost
depending on the voltage requirement of the LED. Example: Let's
assume 2 volts for each LED. If we connect 4 in series that's 8
volts. We need 2 volts for the regulator even if it's a current
regulator. (Actually there are low drop-out voltage regulators too.
Yes they are more expensive. Another case for getting the data
sheet.) So we now have a total of 10 volts. The LEDs should stay
bright and happy until the battery goes under 10 volts. If you need
more LEDs, place several of these series "strings" of LEDs in
parallel. But you must be careful how you do this. If you place 3
strings in parallel you must supply 3 times the current and then
usually place a small value resistor in each string to help assure
the current divides evenly. Also be aware that the regulator and
resistors will also consume power. About the only way to lower the
power to the minimum needed just for the LED's is to use a current
sensing switching regulator and the details on how to do that are
beyond the scope of this message.
LED's are preferable to the Perko lights I normally use. For most
Bolger boats, I would imagine minimal nightime use. A small marine
battery with standard running lights is quite simple. Why make it
complicated? Perhaps I am missing something.
Perplexed in Massachusetts
David Jost
>correct current for the LEDs and place only 4 maybe 5 in series
> My advice is to use a current regulator that will supply the
depending on the voltage requirement of the LED. Example: Let's
assume 2 volts for each LED. If we connect 4 in series that's 8
volts. We need 2 volts for the regulator even if it's a current
regulator. (Actually there are low drop-out voltage regulators too.
Yes they are more expensive. Another case for getting the data
sheet.) So we now have a total of 10 volts. The LEDs should stay
bright and happy until the battery goes under 10 volts. If you need
more LEDs, place several of these series "strings" of LEDs in
parallel. But you must be careful how you do this. If you place 3
strings in parallel you must supply 3 times the current and then
usually place a small value resistor in each string to help assure
the current divides evenly. Also be aware that the regulator and
resistors will also consume power. About the only way to lower the
power to the minimum needed just for the LED's is to use a current
sensing switching regulator and the details on how to do that are
beyond the scope of this message.
>
> Hope this helps and good luck.
>
> Claton Cadmus
Good point about the driving voltage having to be 3v or so higher
than the output. Didn't know that.
voltage for the Nichia LED's I bought is 3.6-4.
So, a 7808 should put out 8v, could I use one of these instead, and
have two leds in series instead of the three originaly planned?
than the output. Didn't know that.
voltage for the Nichia LED's I bought is 3.6-4.
So, a 7808 should put out 8v, could I use one of these instead, and
have two leds in series instead of the three originaly planned?
--- In bolger@y..., cla@m... wrote:
> I just thought I'd add a few technical points to this thread.
>
> If you plan on using a voltage regulator such as a 7812 you must
provide a minimum of 14 volts to the regulator input. Most boats
have a 12 volt storage battery which has a useful voltage range of
about 13 to 10 volts as it discharges from full charge. LEDs are
current sensitive devices but also must have a minimum voltage before
they will conduct at all, usually around 2 volts +/- 1 volt. If you
exceed the voltage without controlling the current they will burn
out. The LED flashlights get away with it because the alkaline
batteries they use are very close to this minimum voltage and fairly
stable. This is not the case with an on-board storage battery.
>
> Buy your LEDs new and from a electronic distributor such as Digi-
Key or Mouser, both on the web. B.G. Micro was recommended, I would
not buy my LEDs there as they are a surplus dealer and often sell out
of spec manufacturer's surplus. I'm not knocking B.G. Micro, they
have good deals, I just don't think for this application this will be
one of them.
>
> Get the data sheet for the LEDs you buy. It will have the voltage
and current requirements as well as the light output and the most
important spec, the angle that the LED will illuminate. This last
spec is very important. Some of the LED's with the higher light
output numbers actually produce less total light because of the
narrow angles. Wider angle LEDs will require less LEDs for a full
360 degree anchor light.
>
> My advice is to use a current regulator that will supply the
correct current for the LEDs and place only 4 maybe 5 in series
depending on the voltage requirement of the LED. Example: Let's
assume 2 volts for each LED. If we connect 4 in series that's 8
volts. We need 2 volts for the regulator even if it's a current
regulator. (Actually there are low drop-out voltage regulators too.
Yes they are more expensive. Another case for getting the data
sheet.) So we now have a total of 10 volts. The LEDs should stay
bright and happy until the battery goes under 10 volts. If you need
more LEDs, place several of these series "strings" of LEDs in
parallel. But you must be careful how you do this. If you place 3
strings in parallel you must supply 3 times the current and then
usually place a small value resistor in each string to help assure
the current divides evenly. Also be aware that the regulator and
resistors will also consume power. About the only way to lower the
power to the minimum needed just for the LED's is to use a current
sensing switching regulator and the details on how to do that are
beyond the scope of this message.
>
> Hope this helps and good luck.
>
> Claton Cadmus
I just thought I'd add a few technical points to this thread.
If you plan on using a voltage regulator such as a 7812 you must provide a minimum of 14 volts to the regulator input. Most boats have a 12 volt storage battery which has a useful voltage range of about 13 to 10 volts as it discharges from full charge. LEDs are current sensitive devices but also must have a minimum voltage before they will conduct at all, usually around 2 volts +/- 1 volt. If you exceed the voltage without controlling the current they will burn out. The LED flashlights get away with it because the alkaline batteries they use are very close to this minimum voltage and fairly stable. This is not the case with an on-board storage battery.
Buy your LEDs new and from a electronic distributor such as Digi-Key or Mouser, both on the web. B.G. Micro was recommended, I would not buy my LEDs there as they are a surplus dealer and often sell out of spec manufacturer's surplus. I'm not knocking B.G. Micro, they have good deals, I just don't think for this application this will be one of them.
Get the data sheet for the LEDs you buy. It will have the voltage and current requirements as well as the light output and the most important spec, the angle that the LED will illuminate. This last spec is very important. Some of the LED's with the higher light output numbers actually produce less total light because of the narrow angles. Wider angle LEDs will require less LEDs for a full 360 degree anchor light.
My advice is to use a current regulator that will supply the correct current for the LEDs and place only 4 maybe 5 in series depending on the voltage requirement of the LED. Example: Let's assume 2 volts for each LED. If we connect 4 in series that's 8 volts. We need 2 volts for the regulator even if it's a current regulator. (Actually there are low drop-out voltage regulators too. Yes they are more expensive. Another case for getting the data sheet.) So we now have a total of 10 volts. The LEDs should stay bright and happy until the battery goes under 10 volts. If you need more LEDs, place several of these series "strings" of LEDs in parallel. But you must be careful how you do this. If you place 3 strings in parallel you must supply 3 times the current and then usually place a small value resistor in each string to help assure the current divides evenly. Also be aware that the regulator and resistors will also consume power. About the only way to lower the power to the minimum needed just for the LED's is to use a current sensing switching regulator and the details on how to do that are beyond the scope of this message.
Hope this helps and good luck.
Claton Cadmus
If you plan on using a voltage regulator such as a 7812 you must provide a minimum of 14 volts to the regulator input. Most boats have a 12 volt storage battery which has a useful voltage range of about 13 to 10 volts as it discharges from full charge. LEDs are current sensitive devices but also must have a minimum voltage before they will conduct at all, usually around 2 volts +/- 1 volt. If you exceed the voltage without controlling the current they will burn out. The LED flashlights get away with it because the alkaline batteries they use are very close to this minimum voltage and fairly stable. This is not the case with an on-board storage battery.
Buy your LEDs new and from a electronic distributor such as Digi-Key or Mouser, both on the web. B.G. Micro was recommended, I would not buy my LEDs there as they are a surplus dealer and often sell out of spec manufacturer's surplus. I'm not knocking B.G. Micro, they have good deals, I just don't think for this application this will be one of them.
Get the data sheet for the LEDs you buy. It will have the voltage and current requirements as well as the light output and the most important spec, the angle that the LED will illuminate. This last spec is very important. Some of the LED's with the higher light output numbers actually produce less total light because of the narrow angles. Wider angle LEDs will require less LEDs for a full 360 degree anchor light.
My advice is to use a current regulator that will supply the correct current for the LEDs and place only 4 maybe 5 in series depending on the voltage requirement of the LED. Example: Let's assume 2 volts for each LED. If we connect 4 in series that's 8 volts. We need 2 volts for the regulator even if it's a current regulator. (Actually there are low drop-out voltage regulators too. Yes they are more expensive. Another case for getting the data sheet.) So we now have a total of 10 volts. The LEDs should stay bright and happy until the battery goes under 10 volts. If you need more LEDs, place several of these series "strings" of LEDs in parallel. But you must be careful how you do this. If you place 3 strings in parallel you must supply 3 times the current and then usually place a small value resistor in each string to help assure the current divides evenly. Also be aware that the regulator and resistors will also consume power. About the only way to lower the power to the minimum needed just for the LED's is to use a current sensing switching regulator and the details on how to do that are beyond the scope of this message.
Hope this helps and good luck.
Claton Cadmus
These people have good prices on the white LEDs (and other colors)
http://www.bgmicro.com/
and you can get the regulators here:
http://www.allelectronics.com/
http://www.bgmicro.com/
and you can get the regulators here:
http://www.allelectronics.com/
--- In bolger@y..., "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> For myself anyway, this site generally is very good, and sometimes
things like this hits home. I'm an electronic nut from way back.
Unfortunately when I went to college for electronics school they
still taught vacuum tubes. Luckily they taught Boolean Logic which
started me on my interest in programming.
>
> The circuits make some sense so I'm going to try this out.
>
> Thanks Rich.
>
> Jeff
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: rlspell2000
> To: bolger@y...
> Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 3:59 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: LED anchor lights
>
>
> Can't really say anything new on the subject, I've been reading
> myself. Here is a good link:
>http://www.otherpower.com/otherpower_lighting_leds.html
>
> BTW, you will need more than three to be visible for 2 miles. Or,
to
> put it another way, the anchor lights you buy have 12 or more.
I'm
> using 12 5600mcd white ones for my anchor light.
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "Paul Lefebvre" <paul@w...> wrote:
> > Hey Richard,
> > I've been putzing around with LED's a bit lately in my work
and
> for a
> > young friend's science project, then I got a LED headband-light
for
> > christmas, and it's mighty impressive - disappears in the palm
of
> your hand,
> > had 3 little white LED's and 3 AAA batteries, gives great light
for
> most
> > headlamp-type tasks and has a 150 hour battery life! No more
> keeping track
> > of spare bulbs and batteries in my travels. So I have been
> pondering exactly
> > what you mentioned for my Micro - for an anchor light, pot up
some
> white
> > LED's in a cup of epoxy, with the domes just peeking out, and
> enough overlap
> > in the radii of the individual LED's for good coverage over 360
> degrees
> > oughta do it - they're quite directional so it'll take some
playing
> to find
> > the right interval. I also thought about having a string of
lights
> inside
> > the cabin for low-draw interior lighting - even thought of
buying a
> bunch of
> > white ones and red ones at the local econo-electronics store to
have
> > alternate red interior lighting if night vision ever becomes
> > important....... maybe even make the side nav lights out of red
and
> green
> > LED's if they are strong enough, wire up the whole micro with
> epoxied
> > micro-electronics.....
> > If you don't mind, please post a drawing of the VR circuit in
the
> files
> > section if you know your way around this stuff... I know just
> enough to be
> > dangerous with electronics design, but can solder quite well ;-)
> >
> > Paul Lefebvre
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rlspell2000 [mailto:richard@s...]
> > Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 4:46 PM
> > To: bolger@y...
> > Subject: [bolger] LED anchor lights
> >
> > Boat building leads to the funniest things. I'm to cheap to pay
$120
> > for a light bulb, so I am building my own LED anchor light.
Modern
> > chips are quite neat, with one 7812 I have a voltage regulator
I can
> > put on the board with twelve 5600 mcd white LEDs, and bingo, I
have
> a
> > light I can run all night without draining the batteries. I may
get
> > carried away and do all the light on the boat this way...!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
horses
> > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all
you
> like
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester,
> MA,
> > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
For myself anyway, this site generally is very good, and sometimes things like this hits home. I'm an electronic nut from way back. Unfortunately when I went to college for electronics school they still taught vacuum tubes. Luckily they taught Boolean Logic which started me on my interest in programming.
The circuits make some sense so I'm going to try this out.
Thanks Rich.
Jeff
The circuits make some sense so I'm going to try this out.
Thanks Rich.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: rlspell2000
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 3:59 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: LED anchor lights
Can't really say anything new on the subject, I've been reading
myself. Here is a good link:
http://www.otherpower.com/otherpower_lighting_leds.html
BTW, you will need more than three to be visible for 2 miles. Or, to
put it another way, the anchor lights you buy have 12 or more. I'm
using 12 5600mcd white ones for my anchor light.
--- In bolger@y..., "Paul Lefebvre" <paul@w...> wrote:
> Hey Richard,
> I've been putzing around with LED's a bit lately in my work and
for a
> young friend's science project, then I got a LED headband-light for
> christmas, and it's mighty impressive - disappears in the palm of
your hand,
> had 3 little white LED's and 3 AAA batteries, gives great light for
most
> headlamp-type tasks and has a 150 hour battery life! No more
keeping track
> of spare bulbs and batteries in my travels. So I have been
pondering exactly
> what you mentioned for my Micro - for an anchor light, pot up some
white
> LED's in a cup of epoxy, with the domes just peeking out, and
enough overlap
> in the radii of the individual LED's for good coverage over 360
degrees
> oughta do it - they're quite directional so it'll take some playing
to find
> the right interval. I also thought about having a string of lights
inside
> the cabin for low-draw interior lighting - even thought of buying a
bunch of
> white ones and red ones at the local econo-electronics store to have
> alternate red interior lighting if night vision ever becomes
> important....... maybe even make the side nav lights out of red and
green
> LED's if they are strong enough, wire up the whole micro with
epoxied
> micro-electronics.....
> If you don't mind, please post a drawing of the VR circuit in the
files
> section if you know your way around this stuff... I know just
enough to be
> dangerous with electronics design, but can solder quite well ;-)
>
> Paul Lefebvre
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rlspell2000 [mailto:richard@s...]
> Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 4:46 PM
> To: bolger@y...
> Subject: [bolger] LED anchor lights
>
> Boat building leads to the funniest things. I'm to cheap to pay $120
> for a light bulb, so I am building my own LED anchor light. Modern
> chips are quite neat, with one 7812 I have a voltage regulator I can
> put on the board with twelve 5600 mcd white LEDs, and bingo, I have
a
> light I can run all night without draining the batteries. I may get
> carried away and do all the light on the boat this way...!
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Can't really say anything new on the subject, I've been reading
myself. Here is a good link:
http://www.otherpower.com/otherpower_lighting_leds.html
BTW, you will need more than three to be visible for 2 miles. Or, to
put it another way, the anchor lights you buy have 12 or more. I'm
using 12 5600mcd white ones for my anchor light.
myself. Here is a good link:
http://www.otherpower.com/otherpower_lighting_leds.html
BTW, you will need more than three to be visible for 2 miles. Or, to
put it another way, the anchor lights you buy have 12 or more. I'm
using 12 5600mcd white ones for my anchor light.
--- In bolger@y..., "Paul Lefebvre" <paul@w...> wrote:
> Hey Richard,
> I've been putzing around with LED's a bit lately in my work and
for a
> young friend's science project, then I got a LED headband-light for
> christmas, and it's mighty impressive - disappears in the palm of
your hand,
> had 3 little white LED's and 3 AAA batteries, gives great light for
most
> headlamp-type tasks and has a 150 hour battery life! No more
keeping track
> of spare bulbs and batteries in my travels. So I have been
pondering exactly
> what you mentioned for my Micro - for an anchor light, pot up some
white
> LED's in a cup of epoxy, with the domes just peeking out, and
enough overlap
> in the radii of the individual LED's for good coverage over 360
degrees
> oughta do it - they're quite directional so it'll take some playing
to find
> the right interval. I also thought about having a string of lights
inside
> the cabin for low-draw interior lighting - even thought of buying a
bunch of
> white ones and red ones at the local econo-electronics store to have
> alternate red interior lighting if night vision ever becomes
> important....... maybe even make the side nav lights out of red and
green
> LED's if they are strong enough, wire up the whole micro with
epoxied
> micro-electronics.....
> If you don't mind, please post a drawing of the VR circuit in the
files
> section if you know your way around this stuff... I know just
enough to be
> dangerous with electronics design, but can solder quite well ;-)
>
> Paul Lefebvre
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rlspell2000 [mailto:richard@s...]
> Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 4:46 PM
> To: bolger@y...
> Subject: [bolger] LED anchor lights
>
> Boat building leads to the funniest things. I'm to cheap to pay $120
> for a light bulb, so I am building my own LED anchor light. Modern
> chips are quite neat, with one 7812 I have a voltage regulator I can
> put on the board with twelve 5600 mcd white LEDs, and bingo, I have
a
> light I can run all night without draining the batteries. I may get
> carried away and do all the light on the boat this way...!
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
if you want another alternative, try the Flatlites from
http://www.beingseen.com/.
the same type of light as a LED, but in a flat strip. different colors are
available including red, green, and a blueish white. I've use their EL
wires for a number of years for craft and costume projects.
da
http://www.beingseen.com/.
the same type of light as a LED, but in a flat strip. different colors are
available including red, green, and a blueish white. I've use their EL
wires for a number of years for craft and costume projects.
da
Hey Richard,
I've been putzing around with LED's a bit lately in my work and for a
young friend's science project, then I got a LED headband-light for
christmas, and it's mighty impressive - disappears in the palm of your hand,
had 3 little white LED's and 3 AAA batteries, gives great light for most
headlamp-type tasks and has a 150 hour battery life! No more keeping track
of spare bulbs and batteries in my travels. So I have been pondering exactly
what you mentioned for my Micro - for an anchor light, pot up some white
LED's in a cup of epoxy, with the domes just peeking out, and enough overlap
in the radii of the individual LED's for good coverage over 360 degrees
oughta do it - they're quite directional so it'll take some playing to find
the right interval. I also thought about having a string of lights inside
the cabin for low-draw interior lighting - even thought of buying a bunch of
white ones and red ones at the local econo-electronics store to have
alternate red interior lighting if night vision ever becomes
important....... maybe even make the side nav lights out of red and green
LED's if they are strong enough, wire up the whole micro with epoxied
micro-electronics.....
If you don't mind, please post a drawing of the VR circuit in the files
section if you know your way around this stuff... I know just enough to be
dangerous with electronics design, but can solder quite well ;-)
Paul Lefebvre
-----Original Message-----
From: rlspell2000 [mailto:richard@...]
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 4:46 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] LED anchor lights
Boat building leads to the funniest things. I'm to cheap to pay $120
for a light bulb, so I am building my own LED anchor light. Modern
chips are quite neat, with one 7812 I have a voltage regulator I can
put on the board with twelve 5600 mcd white LEDs, and bingo, I have a
light I can run all night without draining the batteries. I may get
carried away and do all the light on the boat this way...!
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
I've been putzing around with LED's a bit lately in my work and for a
young friend's science project, then I got a LED headband-light for
christmas, and it's mighty impressive - disappears in the palm of your hand,
had 3 little white LED's and 3 AAA batteries, gives great light for most
headlamp-type tasks and has a 150 hour battery life! No more keeping track
of spare bulbs and batteries in my travels. So I have been pondering exactly
what you mentioned for my Micro - for an anchor light, pot up some white
LED's in a cup of epoxy, with the domes just peeking out, and enough overlap
in the radii of the individual LED's for good coverage over 360 degrees
oughta do it - they're quite directional so it'll take some playing to find
the right interval. I also thought about having a string of lights inside
the cabin for low-draw interior lighting - even thought of buying a bunch of
white ones and red ones at the local econo-electronics store to have
alternate red interior lighting if night vision ever becomes
important....... maybe even make the side nav lights out of red and green
LED's if they are strong enough, wire up the whole micro with epoxied
micro-electronics.....
If you don't mind, please post a drawing of the VR circuit in the files
section if you know your way around this stuff... I know just enough to be
dangerous with electronics design, but can solder quite well ;-)
Paul Lefebvre
-----Original Message-----
From: rlspell2000 [mailto:richard@...]
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 4:46 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] LED anchor lights
Boat building leads to the funniest things. I'm to cheap to pay $120
for a light bulb, so I am building my own LED anchor light. Modern
chips are quite neat, with one 7812 I have a voltage regulator I can
put on the board with twelve 5600 mcd white LEDs, and bingo, I have a
light I can run all night without draining the batteries. I may get
carried away and do all the light on the boat this way...!
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
They will be bright enough, and draw a trivial amount of power.
Actualy, I'm doing all the lights in the boat with them. The don't
run cooler. If you don't over drive them, they make virtualy no heat
at all, and run at ambiant.
They are almost indistructuable, but I'll mount the board with the
LEDs on it and the regulator, with, what else, epoxy, on a base, use
a length of lexan tubing for the lense, cap it off, and presto,
light. Going to make the front lights, the stern light, and the cabin
lights from LED's too. I'll use the lexan tubing again for the light
covers for the outside lights, and maybe those cheap press on lights
for diffusers for inside. Or, may have reading lights with a small
cluster for projection.
Actualy, I'm doing all the lights in the boat with them. The don't
run cooler. If you don't over drive them, they make virtualy no heat
at all, and run at ambiant.
They are almost indistructuable, but I'll mount the board with the
LEDs on it and the regulator, with, what else, epoxy, on a base, use
a length of lexan tubing for the lense, cap it off, and presto,
light. Going to make the front lights, the stern light, and the cabin
lights from LED's too. I'll use the lexan tubing again for the light
covers for the outside lights, and maybe those cheap press on lights
for diffusers for inside. Or, may have reading lights with a small
cluster for projection.
--- In bolger@y..., "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> Tell us more! As in are they going to be bright enough for 2
miles? Obviously they'll run much cooler but how will you mount them
to protect from the elements?
>
> Jeff
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: rlspell2000
> To: bolger@y...
> Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 2:46 PM
> Subject: [bolger] LED anchor lights
>
>
> Boat building leads to the funniest things. I'm to cheap to pay
$120
> for a light bulb, so I am building my own LED anchor light.
Modern
> chips are quite neat, with one 7812 I have a voltage regulator I
can
> put on the board with twelve 5600 mcd white LEDs, and bingo, I
have a
> light I can run all night without draining the batteries. I may
get
> carried away and do all the light on the boat this way...!
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Tell us more! As in are they going to be bright enough for 2 miles? Obviously they'll run much cooler but how will you mount them to protect from the elements?
Jeff
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: rlspell2000
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 2:46 PM
Subject: [bolger] LED anchor lights
Boat building leads to the funniest things. I'm to cheap to pay $120
for a light bulb, so I am building my own LED anchor light. Modern
chips are quite neat, with one 7812 I have a voltage regulator I can
put on the board with twelve 5600 mcd white LEDs, and bingo, I have a
light I can run all night without draining the batteries. I may get
carried away and do all the light on the boat this way...!
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Boat building leads to the funniest things. I'm to cheap to pay $120
for a light bulb, so I am building my own LED anchor light. Modern
chips are quite neat, with one 7812 I have a voltage regulator I can
put on the board with twelve 5600 mcd white LEDs, and bingo, I have a
light I can run all night without draining the batteries. I may get
carried away and do all the light on the boat this way...!
for a light bulb, so I am building my own LED anchor light. Modern
chips are quite neat, with one 7812 I have a voltage regulator I can
put on the board with twelve 5600 mcd white LEDs, and bingo, I have a
light I can run all night without draining the batteries. I may get
carried away and do all the light on the boat this way...!