Re: Sanding/ gluing( was Wyo lumber etc...)
Hi Thomas,
The bonding does indeed spread(share) the load much better then
fastners alone,thus all the more reason for the"hollow joint tip".I
like your advice about not being too concerned about failures in
materials etc.....now if I could just convince my brain to stop
fretting over such things!! Perhaps it is having read too many
disaster stories about material failures/defects that has me obsessing
like this or,on the other hand,maybe I just have way too much time on
my hands at work :-)....
Another one of my little obsessions deals with the question of whether
to remove the screws or not once the epoxy kicks.This comes from the
time consuming and failed attempts at filling the screw holes.Short of
using a syringe for each and every little hole,I have never been able
to completely fill the holes.This left me sleepless wondering about
water infiltration into these holes with later expansion(from
freezing) and all the subsequent mayhem from various types of ugly
blisters showing up, like pimples on a teenagers face,all over the
outside of the boat.It only required two Canadian winters for
precisely that to occur on a SURF I built several years ago.At that
time I was far less experienced and actually thought it was"cool" to
be doing maintenance work on my boat......it was wood afterall! It
only dawned on me much later that; 1)There is no reason on earth why a
relatively new boat should begin falling apart so soon unless you've
done something wrong and 2) I am far too lazy to need this sort of
work/grief in my daily life!Thus,I now keep the screws in.
This particular problem may not be a concern for boats dry-sailed
or in warmer climates(Hmmmmmm...little pockets of rot breeding? See
what I mean..... ) nor for those boats treated with an epoxy sealer
followed by the application of barrier coat bellow the waterline.
Ultimately,it may all just boil down to what ones personal
expectations are for their boat.In some cases,longevity may be a
burden.........
I think I understand your"second thought" although I really can't
see what you describe actually occuring unless the stringer is very
soft.For example,the chine log on my MICRO must take on a compound
curve,bending both on the vertical and horizontal axis.The mating
surface(outboard face) remained true(dead flat).I suspect that this
was due to the wood fibres actually stretching to accommodate the
curve,especially when helped along with hot water.The log in question
measured 7/8" X 1 1/2" mahogany.
Shapely hulls are a thing of beauty and have it all over
the"boxes",no doubt about that!Depending on the boat size,each plank
in the turn of the bilge has to get hollowed out just to keep the
nominal thickness of the hull intact(and to get the plank to lay fair
on the frame) or else you plane it all away when later fairing the
hull outside.This will then leave you with relatively little beef at
the seams when caulking time arrives!
But that is another topic altogether....
All the best,
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,still en amour(enamored) with boxes despite all sorts of
depravities possible with the more curvacious variety available,from
the shores of the chilly St.Lawrence.......
ca
The bonding does indeed spread(share) the load much better then
fastners alone,thus all the more reason for the"hollow joint tip".I
like your advice about not being too concerned about failures in
materials etc.....now if I could just convince my brain to stop
fretting over such things!! Perhaps it is having read too many
disaster stories about material failures/defects that has me obsessing
like this or,on the other hand,maybe I just have way too much time on
my hands at work :-)....
Another one of my little obsessions deals with the question of whether
to remove the screws or not once the epoxy kicks.This comes from the
time consuming and failed attempts at filling the screw holes.Short of
using a syringe for each and every little hole,I have never been able
to completely fill the holes.This left me sleepless wondering about
water infiltration into these holes with later expansion(from
freezing) and all the subsequent mayhem from various types of ugly
blisters showing up, like pimples on a teenagers face,all over the
outside of the boat.It only required two Canadian winters for
precisely that to occur on a SURF I built several years ago.At that
time I was far less experienced and actually thought it was"cool" to
be doing maintenance work on my boat......it was wood afterall! It
only dawned on me much later that; 1)There is no reason on earth why a
relatively new boat should begin falling apart so soon unless you've
done something wrong and 2) I am far too lazy to need this sort of
work/grief in my daily life!Thus,I now keep the screws in.
This particular problem may not be a concern for boats dry-sailed
or in warmer climates(Hmmmmmm...little pockets of rot breeding? See
what I mean..... ) nor for those boats treated with an epoxy sealer
followed by the application of barrier coat bellow the waterline.
Ultimately,it may all just boil down to what ones personal
expectations are for their boat.In some cases,longevity may be a
burden.........
I think I understand your"second thought" although I really can't
see what you describe actually occuring unless the stringer is very
soft.For example,the chine log on my MICRO must take on a compound
curve,bending both on the vertical and horizontal axis.The mating
surface(outboard face) remained true(dead flat).I suspect that this
was due to the wood fibres actually stretching to accommodate the
curve,especially when helped along with hot water.The log in question
measured 7/8" X 1 1/2" mahogany.
Shapely hulls are a thing of beauty and have it all over
the"boxes",no doubt about that!Depending on the boat size,each plank
in the turn of the bilge has to get hollowed out just to keep the
nominal thickness of the hull intact(and to get the plank to lay fair
on the frame) or else you plane it all away when later fairing the
hull outside.This will then leave you with relatively little beef at
the seams when caulking time arrives!
But that is another topic altogether....
All the best,
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,still en amour(enamored) with boxes despite all sorts of
depravities possible with the more curvacious variety available,from
the shores of the chilly St.Lawrence.......
ca
Peter, thanks for your thoughtful response. I use
tons of screws, and for the same reasons as you, but I
pull almost all of the ones that don't break off.
With stringers and such like, there really aren't any
practical clamping arangements anyway. I am certainly
not suggesting that one shouldn't rely on fasteners if
one so chooses, but one of the advantages of bonded
boats are that the loads are (should) spread over much
wider areas than with fasteners, so I would be less
concerned with the possibility of failures in
materials an so forth.
My second point really isn't relevant to the
particulars of your nifty detail. It is just an
observation that if I had to put the extra effort into
contouring the stringers in the shape you suggest,
small as that effort is, and given that a flat
stringer against a curved hull would give me the same
kind of interior cove that you are getting with a
curved stringer and a flat hull panel, perhaps I
should spend my time working on producing the generaly
more water friendly curved hull in the first place.
Possibly droping at least one chine joint in the
process. Granted this is an over-reaction to a
sinsible detail, and if one wants a boxy boat, and i
am as suceptible as the next person to their charms, a
curved one just isn't going to get it done.
______________________________________________________________________
Web-hosting solutions for home and business!http://website.yahoo.ca
tons of screws, and for the same reasons as you, but I
pull almost all of the ones that don't break off.
With stringers and such like, there really aren't any
practical clamping arangements anyway. I am certainly
not suggesting that one shouldn't rely on fasteners if
one so chooses, but one of the advantages of bonded
boats are that the loads are (should) spread over much
wider areas than with fasteners, so I would be less
concerned with the possibility of failures in
materials an so forth.
My second point really isn't relevant to the
particulars of your nifty detail. It is just an
observation that if I had to put the extra effort into
contouring the stringers in the shape you suggest,
small as that effort is, and given that a flat
stringer against a curved hull would give me the same
kind of interior cove that you are getting with a
curved stringer and a flat hull panel, perhaps I
should spend my time working on producing the generaly
more water friendly curved hull in the first place.
Possibly droping at least one chine joint in the
process. Granted this is an over-reaction to a
sinsible detail, and if one wants a boxy boat, and i
am as suceptible as the next person to their charms, a
curved one just isn't going to get it done.
______________________________________________________________________
Web-hosting solutions for home and business!http://website.yahoo.ca
Hello Thomas,
I appreciate your observations regarding my post.Part of what
inspired my posting was the reference made about planed surfaces,which
can be really slick.All my pre-glue surfaces are sanded with nothing
greater then 80 grit paper.
Your concern about the creation of"a pressure point along the
edge...." is well taken however,I should point out that in real
practice,those"points" are not as fine as the drawings may suggest and
the panels are(usually) saturated while still on the flat.Also,I like
to give at least two coats of epoxy sealer to all surfaces prior to
applying barrier coats and paint thus the opportunities for later
water penetration are kept to a realistic minimum.
I'm not too clear on what your second thought is refering to
exactly.Perhaps you could clarify this for me?
Indeed,the squeeze out may be simply worked into an epoxy fillet
where appropriate,as in the upper inboard surface of a chine log.There
are,of course,areas where one may need to have a"clean" junction to
permit the securing of a bulkhead or bench etc...
I whole heartedly agree with you concerning the need to use sound
building practices and scantlings to avoid leaks.My use of screws AND
epoxy has partly to do with owning only 23 clamps......screws allow me
to proceed onto another task by keeping the clamps available.There is
also something,which may be nothing more then ignorance on my
part,that always flits around the back of my head and it is this;if
the batch of epoxy from the manufacturer is flawed,my mix ratio
flawed or the outer veneer of the plywood defective then I at least
can count on the very real presence of screws to keep things together
until a proper repair job can be performed if there is ever indeed a
failure.
I'm not particularly fond of nails as all that"pounding away" may
knock certain elements out of true.......at least in the early stages
of setting up.I also like the way the screwdriver telegraphs to you
just how things are going as two components are brought together.But
this is nothing more then personal preference.
Again,I appreciate your observations and look forward to your
clarification regarding your"second thought".
All the best to you!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,finally getting a taste of an old fashioned Canadian
winter,here on the shores of the St.Lawrence.........
I appreciate your observations regarding my post.Part of what
inspired my posting was the reference made about planed surfaces,which
can be really slick.All my pre-glue surfaces are sanded with nothing
greater then 80 grit paper.
Your concern about the creation of"a pressure point along the
edge...." is well taken however,I should point out that in real
practice,those"points" are not as fine as the drawings may suggest and
the panels are(usually) saturated while still on the flat.Also,I like
to give at least two coats of epoxy sealer to all surfaces prior to
applying barrier coats and paint thus the opportunities for later
water penetration are kept to a realistic minimum.
I'm not too clear on what your second thought is refering to
exactly.Perhaps you could clarify this for me?
Indeed,the squeeze out may be simply worked into an epoxy fillet
where appropriate,as in the upper inboard surface of a chine log.There
are,of course,areas where one may need to have a"clean" junction to
permit the securing of a bulkhead or bench etc...
I whole heartedly agree with you concerning the need to use sound
building practices and scantlings to avoid leaks.My use of screws AND
epoxy has partly to do with owning only 23 clamps......screws allow me
to proceed onto another task by keeping the clamps available.There is
also something,which may be nothing more then ignorance on my
part,that always flits around the back of my head and it is this;if
the batch of epoxy from the manufacturer is flawed,my mix ratio
flawed or the outer veneer of the plywood defective then I at least
can count on the very real presence of screws to keep things together
until a proper repair job can be performed if there is ever indeed a
failure.
I'm not particularly fond of nails as all that"pounding away" may
knock certain elements out of true.......at least in the early stages
of setting up.I also like the way the screwdriver telegraphs to you
just how things are going as two components are brought together.But
this is nothing more then personal preference.
Again,I appreciate your observations and look forward to your
clarification regarding your"second thought".
All the best to you!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,finally getting a taste of an old fashioned Canadian
winter,here on the shores of the St.Lawrence.........
--- In bolger@y..., thomas dalzell <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
> Peter,
>
> Certainly sanding doesn't in my book imply we are
> going for a furniture quality joint, and you are right
> about the risk of a glue starved joint. Sanding can
> deal with that to some extent, because it fluffs up
> the surface, so that even with modest clamping
> pressure a zone of glue will exist, at least with
> epoxy.
>
> Your excellent drawing show the squeeze out one gets
> upon gluing. Your solution is neat, though it begs
> two questions in my mind. The first is that you will
> have a pressure point along the edge where glue
> starvation is practicaly guaranteed, that may be a
> point where water might eventually get in. Of course
> with the miracle of epoxy, it may all be deeply
> saturated anyway. My second thought is that what you
> specify happens naturally when applying stringers to
> curved surfaces. At some point, with certain designs,
> the thought of whether we are actually saving any time
> or money building boxes may arise.
>
> A useful place for all the squeezout is in a cove run
> along the edge of the stringer.
>
> I think it is absolutely a false choice to go with the
> idea that either we have screws, or we have leaks. To
> avoid joint breakdowns, all you really need are proper
> scantlings and details. The only problem is they may
> not build as fast (though this is less true for
> amateurs who get few uninterupted 10 hr. days), and in
> certain cases the required epoxy may cost a lot. On
> the other hand, the cost of bronze and good enough
> wood to take the wet cycles is going up, while the
> cost of epoxy has mostly fallen over the last 20
> years. It is still generally healthier to pound nails
> and to work with clean wood than it is to play the
> composite game (unless you really gear up the safety
> measures).
>
ca
Also, the fact someone has spent a lifetime designing
boats isn't a guarantee of a fascinating read. Bolger
could write an interesting book about himself (Iwould
be curious to hear a little more about his cruising),
but from someone else's perspective, they might have
to be a pretty good writer.
---stephensonhw@...wrote:
______________________________________________________________________
Web-hosting solutions for home and business!http://website.yahoo.ca
boats isn't a guarantee of a fascinating read. Bolger
could write an interesting book about himself (Iwould
be curious to hear a little more about his cruising),
but from someone else's perspective, they might have
to be a pretty good writer.
---stephensonhw@...wrote:
______________________________________________________________________
Web-hosting solutions for home and business!http://website.yahoo.ca
TFJ's three books have all been great. Like anyone
else he comes at it from his own perspective, but what
he says makes sense from that perspective. One of the
problems with PCB, and TFJ, is that the life of
designer/builder imposes certain finacial hardships
that most people with a job don't face. Sometimes
they seem to be going ludicrously out of their way to
save a buck. If these guys designed cars we would all
still be driving Model-T Fords. Hey that's the charm.
______________________________________________________________________
Web-hosting solutions for home and business!http://website.yahoo.ca
else he comes at it from his own perspective, but what
he says makes sense from that perspective. One of the
problems with PCB, and TFJ, is that the life of
designer/builder imposes certain finacial hardships
that most people with a job don't face. Sometimes
they seem to be going ludicrously out of their way to
save a buck. If these guys designed cars we would all
still be driving Model-T Fords. Hey that's the charm.
______________________________________________________________________
Web-hosting solutions for home and business!http://website.yahoo.ca
If you thought he did a hatchet job on Devlin and Garden, wait 'til you
read what he has to say about Billy Atkin. Holy smokes, Shipmates!
David Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From:stephensonhw@...[mailto:stephensonhw@...]
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 3:50 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Bolger Chum Tells All
I'll be looking out for this book. There was a very negative review of
TFJ's
"Low Resistance Boats" -- in WoodenBoat, I think -- but I've found it
to be
full of useful information for anyone interested in the design and
construction of small boats. There are a few somewhat outspoken passages
in
that book about the work of other designers including Devlin and Wm.
Garden.
Is anyone working on a Bolger biography?
Howard
Queensland, Australia.
_______________
In a message dated 19-01-02 5:40:36 AM E. Australia Standard Time,
sakari@...writes:
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=219350.1849047.3355885.1774053/D=egroupweb/S=1705
065791:HM/A=935584/R=0/*http://www.gotomypc.com/u/tr/yh/grp/300_06/g22lp
?Target=mm/g22lp.tmpl>
<http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=219350.1849047.3355885.1774053/D=egrou
pmail/S=1705065791:HM/A=935584/rand=673807119>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
read what he has to say about Billy Atkin. Holy smokes, Shipmates!
David Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From:stephensonhw@...[mailto:stephensonhw@...]
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 3:50 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Bolger Chum Tells All
I'll be looking out for this book. There was a very negative review of
TFJ's
"Low Resistance Boats" -- in WoodenBoat, I think -- but I've found it
to be
full of useful information for anyone interested in the design and
construction of small boats. There are a few somewhat outspoken passages
in
that book about the work of other designers including Devlin and Wm.
Garden.
Is anyone working on a Bolger biography?
Howard
Queensland, Australia.
_______________
In a message dated 19-01-02 5:40:36 AM E. Australia Standard Time,
sakari@...writes:
> Thomas Firth Jones's recent book, NEW PLYWOOD BOATS, contains[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> an interesting 'appreciation' of Phil Bolger.
>
> Sakari Aaltonen
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=219350.1849047.3355885.1774053/D=egroupweb/S=1705
065791:HM/A=935584/R=0/*http://www.gotomypc.com/u/tr/yh/grp/300_06/g22lp
?Target=mm/g22lp.tmpl>
<http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=219350.1849047.3355885.1774053/D=egrou
pmail/S=1705065791:HM/A=935584/rand=673807119>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I'll be looking out for this book. There was a very negative review of TFJ's
"Low Resistance Boats" -- in WoodenBoat, I think -- but I've found it to be
full of useful information for anyone interested in the design and
construction of small boats. There are a few somewhat outspoken passages in
that book about the work of other designers including Devlin and Wm. Garden.
Is anyone working on a Bolger biography?
Howard
Queensland, Australia.
_______________
In a message dated 19-01-02 5:40:36 AM E. Australia Standard Time,
sakari@...writes:
"Low Resistance Boats" -- in WoodenBoat, I think -- but I've found it to be
full of useful information for anyone interested in the design and
construction of small boats. There are a few somewhat outspoken passages in
that book about the work of other designers including Devlin and Wm. Garden.
Is anyone working on a Bolger biography?
Howard
Queensland, Australia.
_______________
In a message dated 19-01-02 5:40:36 AM E. Australia Standard Time,
sakari@...writes:
> Thomas Firth Jones's recent book, NEW PLYWOOD BOATS, contains[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> an interesting 'appreciation' of Phil Bolger.
>
> Sakari Aaltonen
Thomas Firth Jones's recent book, NEW PLYWOOD BOATS, contains
an interesting 'appreciation' of Phil Bolger.
Sakari Aaltonen
an interesting 'appreciation' of Phil Bolger.
Sakari Aaltonen
Peter,
Certainly sanding doesn't in my book imply we are
going for a furniture quality joint, and you are right
about the risk of a glue starved joint. Sanding can
deal with that to some extent, because it fluffs up
the surface, so that even with modest clamping
pressure a zone of glue will exist, at least with
epoxy.
Your excellent drawing show the squeeze out one gets
upon gluing. Your solution is neat, though it begs
two questions in my mind. The first is that you will
have a pressure point along the edge where glue
starvation is practicaly guaranteed, that may be a
point where water might eventually get in. Of course
with the miracle of epoxy, it may all be deeply
saturated anyway. My second thought is that what you
specify happens naturally when applying stringers to
curved surfaces. At some point, with certain designs,
the thought of whether we are actually saving any time
or money building boxes may arise.
A useful place for all the squeezout is in a cove run
along the edge of the stringer.
I think it is absolutely a false choice to go with the
idea that either we have screws, or we have leaks. To
avoid joint breakdowns, all you really need are proper
scantlings and details. The only problem is they may
not build as fast (though this is less true for
amateurs who get few uninterupted 10 hr. days), and in
certain cases the required epoxy may cost a lot. On
the other hand, the cost of bronze and good enough
wood to take the wet cycles is going up, while the
cost of epoxy has mostly fallen over the last 20
years. It is still generally healthier to pound nails
and to work with clean wood than it is to play the
composite game (unless you really gear up the safety
measures).
--- ellengaestboatbuildingcom
<ellengaest@...> wrote:
<HR>
<html><body>
<tt>
Hi,<BR>
I find the whole subject of whether to sand or
not before gluing <BR>
very informative. I've only used epoxy in my work and
find that so <BR>
long as it is a boat that I am building,the joints
need not be up to <BR>
fine funiture standards......I really do not mind
seeing the joint!<BR>
One problem that I did once experience was the failure
of a joint<BR>
(laminanted canterboard box logs).It baffeled me,at
the time,since I <BR>
was using epoxy(miracle stuff!) and had taken great
pains to have <BR>
everything smooth and clean.I clamped the whole thing
up nice and <BR>
tight and when the works was later installed on the
boat,I marvelled <BR>
at the "invisibilty" of my joint.<BR>
The boat leaked on launch day and I was
frustrated.At haul out,I <BR>
tore out the bedlogs and discovered the
problem.......the biggest <BR>
fear to builders,a glue starved joint!! I had made
things too perfect <BR>
and left no space for the epoxy to do its stuff.<BR>
My solution?<BR>
<a
href="http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Bolger2/files/building%">http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Bolger2/files/building%</a><BR>
20tips/Hollow1.JPG<BR>
<BR>
And yes,I also use screws to back
everything up.Some may think <BR>
that this is just because I am a belt and suspenders
sorta guy, but <BR>
the sorry truth is that I am simply a non-swimmer!<BR>
<BR>
Sincerely,<BR>
Peter Lenihan <BR>
<BR>
</tt>
<br>
<tt>
Bolger rules!!!<BR>
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging
dead horses<BR>
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on
topic, and punctuate<BR>
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts,
snip all you like<BR>
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349<BR>
- Unsubscribe:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com</tt>
<br>
<br>
<tt>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the <a
href="http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/">Yahoo! Terms
of Service</a>.</tt>
</br>
</body></html>
______________________________________________________________________
Web-hosting solutions for home and business! http://website.yahoo.ca
Certainly sanding doesn't in my book imply we are
going for a furniture quality joint, and you are right
about the risk of a glue starved joint. Sanding can
deal with that to some extent, because it fluffs up
the surface, so that even with modest clamping
pressure a zone of glue will exist, at least with
epoxy.
Your excellent drawing show the squeeze out one gets
upon gluing. Your solution is neat, though it begs
two questions in my mind. The first is that you will
have a pressure point along the edge where glue
starvation is practicaly guaranteed, that may be a
point where water might eventually get in. Of course
with the miracle of epoxy, it may all be deeply
saturated anyway. My second thought is that what you
specify happens naturally when applying stringers to
curved surfaces. At some point, with certain designs,
the thought of whether we are actually saving any time
or money building boxes may arise.
A useful place for all the squeezout is in a cove run
along the edge of the stringer.
I think it is absolutely a false choice to go with the
idea that either we have screws, or we have leaks. To
avoid joint breakdowns, all you really need are proper
scantlings and details. The only problem is they may
not build as fast (though this is less true for
amateurs who get few uninterupted 10 hr. days), and in
certain cases the required epoxy may cost a lot. On
the other hand, the cost of bronze and good enough
wood to take the wet cycles is going up, while the
cost of epoxy has mostly fallen over the last 20
years. It is still generally healthier to pound nails
and to work with clean wood than it is to play the
composite game (unless you really gear up the safety
measures).
--- ellengaestboatbuildingcom
<ellengaest@...> wrote:
<HR>
<html><body>
<tt>
Hi,<BR>
I find the whole subject of whether to sand or
not before gluing <BR>
very informative. I've only used epoxy in my work and
find that so <BR>
long as it is a boat that I am building,the joints
need not be up to <BR>
fine funiture standards......I really do not mind
seeing the joint!<BR>
One problem that I did once experience was the failure
of a joint<BR>
(laminanted canterboard box logs).It baffeled me,at
the time,since I <BR>
was using epoxy(miracle stuff!) and had taken great
pains to have <BR>
everything smooth and clean.I clamped the whole thing
up nice and <BR>
tight and when the works was later installed on the
boat,I marvelled <BR>
at the "invisibilty" of my joint.<BR>
The boat leaked on launch day and I was
frustrated.At haul out,I <BR>
tore out the bedlogs and discovered the
problem.......the biggest <BR>
fear to builders,a glue starved joint!! I had made
things too perfect <BR>
and left no space for the epoxy to do its stuff.<BR>
My solution?<BR>
<a
href="http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Bolger2/files/building%">http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Bolger2/files/building%</a><BR>
20tips/Hollow1.JPG<BR>
<BR>
And yes,I also use screws to back
everything up.Some may think <BR>
that this is just because I am a belt and suspenders
sorta guy, but <BR>
the sorry truth is that I am simply a non-swimmer!<BR>
<BR>
Sincerely,<BR>
Peter Lenihan <BR>
<BR>
</tt>
<br>
<tt>
Bolger rules!!!<BR>
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging
dead horses<BR>
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on
topic, and punctuate<BR>
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts,
snip all you like<BR>
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349<BR>
- Unsubscribe:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com</tt>
<br>
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Hi,
I find the whole subject of whether to sand or not before gluing
very informative. I've only used epoxy in my work and find that so
long as it is a boat that I am building,the joints need not be up to
fine funiture standards......I really do not mind seeing the joint!
One problem that I did once experience was the failure of a joint
(laminanted canterboard box logs).It baffeled me,at the time,since I
was using epoxy(miracle stuff!) and had taken great pains to have
everything smooth and clean.I clamped the whole thing up nice and
tight and when the works was later installed on the boat,I marvelled
at the "invisibilty" of my joint.
The boat leaked on launch day and I was frustrated.At haul out,I
tore out the bedlogs and discovered the problem.......the biggest
fear to builders,a glue starved joint!! I had made things too perfect
and left no space for the epoxy to do its stuff.
My solution?
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Bolger2/files/building%
20tips/Hollow1.JPG
And yes,I also use screws to back everything up.Some may think
that this is just because I am a belt and suspenders sorta guy, but
the sorry truth is that I am simply a non-swimmer!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
I find the whole subject of whether to sand or not before gluing
very informative. I've only used epoxy in my work and find that so
long as it is a boat that I am building,the joints need not be up to
fine funiture standards......I really do not mind seeing the joint!
One problem that I did once experience was the failure of a joint
(laminanted canterboard box logs).It baffeled me,at the time,since I
was using epoxy(miracle stuff!) and had taken great pains to have
everything smooth and clean.I clamped the whole thing up nice and
tight and when the works was later installed on the boat,I marvelled
at the "invisibilty" of my joint.
The boat leaked on launch day and I was frustrated.At haul out,I
tore out the bedlogs and discovered the problem.......the biggest
fear to builders,a glue starved joint!! I had made things too perfect
and left no space for the epoxy to do its stuff.
My solution?
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Bolger2/files/building%
20tips/Hollow1.JPG
And yes,I also use screws to back everything up.Some may think
that this is just because I am a belt and suspenders sorta guy, but
the sorry truth is that I am simply a non-swimmer!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan