Re: Micro:outboard
Hmmm. I wrestled with this subject for quite a while until I finally
stumbled on my solution the next town over.
A 10hp 2 cycle motor weighs significantly more than a 4 hp. I think
it is around 60lbs as opposed to 35lbs. I know that I can lift my
new old 1973 Evinrude 4hp with one arm and run with it to the car, I
can barely manage the 10hp without great effort on my part. I will
leave the 10 hp longshaft Johnson on the diablo, so that the kids can
enjoy picking the bugs out of their teeth after a healthy run up the
bay. Most lakes around here do not appreciate the speed that diablo
is capable of when equipped this way, and they do not appreciate
diablos wake at slow speeds.
At my age, effort does not = fun. I feel that I will get better use
from the 4hp in that it:
will not drag down the transom
will supply suitable trolling speed on the trout ponds in Diablo.
(many of our lakes limit horsepower and speed).
will make maintenance easier as I can easily stow it below the
cockpit hatch when not in use to dissuade the water pirates from
obsonding with my booty.
There two cents worth.
David Jost
stumbled on my solution the next town over.
A 10hp 2 cycle motor weighs significantly more than a 4 hp. I think
it is around 60lbs as opposed to 35lbs. I know that I can lift my
new old 1973 Evinrude 4hp with one arm and run with it to the car, I
can barely manage the 10hp without great effort on my part. I will
leave the 10 hp longshaft Johnson on the diablo, so that the kids can
enjoy picking the bugs out of their teeth after a healthy run up the
bay. Most lakes around here do not appreciate the speed that diablo
is capable of when equipped this way, and they do not appreciate
diablos wake at slow speeds.
At my age, effort does not = fun. I feel that I will get better use
from the 4hp in that it:
will not drag down the transom
will supply suitable trolling speed on the trout ponds in Diablo.
(many of our lakes limit horsepower and speed).
will make maintenance easier as I can easily stow it below the
cockpit hatch when not in use to dissuade the water pirates from
obsonding with my booty.
There two cents worth.
David Jost
> I know Phil only specifies a 4-6 hp motor for the Micro. But is iti
> possible to put something on the back with a bit more grunt. For
> those days when you
> don't feel like a leisurely sail. The transom looks well braced. So
> was thinking something in the 10-15 hp range. Something heavy enough
> to bring the deadrise angle up for planing. And something powerful
> enough to pull a biscuit. Any ideas or experiences?
> Cheer
Peter, you are still failing to grasp the true
enormity of the digretion of my thinking in my second
point. I am not expecting a micro to provide the kind
of interface I was suggesting, but something like a
stressformed multihull hull, something with real
two-way curve. Just for me, every time I come up with
a more complicated, sometimes better, way of
assembling a box, it cuts into the time/cost advantage
the box has over the more complex hull form.
Pottentialy some of these hulls are more expensive and
slower to build than some of the more rounded shapes.
There are several styles of multihulls that have been
hull assembled in one day. So the more we complicate
the boxes, the more I wonder if we are on the right
path.
This is all a sort of hypocracy, because I don't
really build boxes because they are cheaper or faster,
though that's a point, I build them because they are
interesting. But part of that interest lies in the
idea they are more boat for less, even if they aren't
always.
Basicaly I don't believe in bonded only boats unless
they are fully sheathed. If they are they shouldn't
fall appart as you describe. Since a metal fastener
left in a hole will work with changes in temperature I
don't think it is imune to water penetration. I live
just outside TO, so We share a simmilar climate. I
back all drywall screws with a washer, and a piece of
ply, as a result the hole is pretty small, I use a
drywall screw gun that would burrow right through the
hull if I didn't use these washers. It isn't necesary
to fill anything but the outside of the hole, though I
suppose one could drive in gluey toothpicks if one
wanted. I sometimes shoot stapes, and they aren't
worth digging out, though I don't fool myself with the
thought they have any holding power compared to the glue.
______________________________________________________________________
Web-hosting solutions for home and business!http://website.yahoo.ca
enormity of the digretion of my thinking in my second
point. I am not expecting a micro to provide the kind
of interface I was suggesting, but something like a
stressformed multihull hull, something with real
two-way curve. Just for me, every time I come up with
a more complicated, sometimes better, way of
assembling a box, it cuts into the time/cost advantage
the box has over the more complex hull form.
Pottentialy some of these hulls are more expensive and
slower to build than some of the more rounded shapes.
There are several styles of multihulls that have been
hull assembled in one day. So the more we complicate
the boxes, the more I wonder if we are on the right
path.
This is all a sort of hypocracy, because I don't
really build boxes because they are cheaper or faster,
though that's a point, I build them because they are
interesting. But part of that interest lies in the
idea they are more boat for less, even if they aren't
always.
Basicaly I don't believe in bonded only boats unless
they are fully sheathed. If they are they shouldn't
fall appart as you describe. Since a metal fastener
left in a hole will work with changes in temperature I
don't think it is imune to water penetration. I live
just outside TO, so We share a simmilar climate. I
back all drywall screws with a washer, and a piece of
ply, as a result the hole is pretty small, I use a
drywall screw gun that would burrow right through the
hull if I didn't use these washers. It isn't necesary
to fill anything but the outside of the hole, though I
suppose one could drive in gluey toothpicks if one
wanted. I sometimes shoot stapes, and they aren't
worth digging out, though I don't fool myself with the
thought they have any holding power compared to the glue.
______________________________________________________________________
Web-hosting solutions for home and business!http://website.yahoo.ca
My Lily has, I think, a similar amount of rocker in the bottom, and even my Honda 2 starts to dig a
hole. Clyde
avagomadmick wrote:
hole. Clyde
avagomadmick wrote:
> Hello
> I know Phil only specifies a 4-6 hp motor for the Micro. But is it
> possible to put something on the back with a bit more grunt. For
> those days when you
> don't feel like a leisurely sail. The transom looks well braced. So i
> was thinking something in the 10-15 hp range. Something heavy enough
> to bring the deadrise angle up for planing. And something powerful
> enough to pull a biscuit. Any ideas or experiences?
> Cheers
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> I was thinking something in the 10-15 hp range. Something heavyenough > to bring the deadrise angle up for planing. And something
powerful enough to pull a biscuit. Any ideas or experiences?
I am reminded of the time I saw a 35hp ob on a Hurley 17 sloop. It
put her off her sailing lines, and wouldn't have driven her
significantly faster than a 6.
If you want a boat that will go fast with a motor, then you want one
without a lead keel. A Chebacco or Fast Motorsailer (small or large)
would be a better choice.
Peter
You could build a Diablo to go on your bigger motor. That should do what you
are wanting very nicely. Even if it means owning two boats, it may be worth
the effort.
Stuart Crawford
New Zealand
are wanting very nicely. Even if it means owning two boats, it may be worth
the effort.
Stuart Crawford
New Zealand
> So i
> was thinking something in the 10-15 hp range. Something heavy enough
> to bring the deadrise angle up for planing. And something powerful
> enough to pull a biscuit. Any ideas or experiences?
> Cheers
gulp!
DonB
DonB
--- In bolger@y..., "avagomadmick" <mcnnrs@o...> wrote:
> Hello
> I know Phil only specifies a 4-6 hp motor for the Micro. But is it
> possible to put something on the back with a bit more grunt. For
> those days when you
> don't feel like a leisurely sail. The transom looks well braced. So
i
> was thinking something in the 10-15 hp range. Something heavy enough
> to bring the deadrise angle up for planing. And something powerful
> enough to pull a biscuit. Any ideas or experiences?
> Cheers
Hi,
It is certainly"possible" to put more HP on a MICRO but what would
be the point?Hull speed is only 4 or 5 knots which my 5hp outboard
ready attains.
I did once have a 20hp hooked up to my MICRO but this was for a
movie shoot where the boat had to run up a fast moving northern river
and through some small rapids.We almost did not make it upstream with
the engine wide open but that is another story!
The point to remember is this,once you exceed hull speed the boat
will begin to"dig" a progressively deeper hole in the water.That
is,one big bow wave followed by a deep hollow spot about midships and
finally followed by an amazing stern wave! Gas consumtion will also be
rather amazing.......No idea how many HP you would need to get the
MICRO to plane.
Just how many biscuits are you planning on carrying anyway?
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan...........
It is certainly"possible" to put more HP on a MICRO but what would
be the point?Hull speed is only 4 or 5 knots which my 5hp outboard
ready attains.
I did once have a 20hp hooked up to my MICRO but this was for a
movie shoot where the boat had to run up a fast moving northern river
and through some small rapids.We almost did not make it upstream with
the engine wide open but that is another story!
The point to remember is this,once you exceed hull speed the boat
will begin to"dig" a progressively deeper hole in the water.That
is,one big bow wave followed by a deep hollow spot about midships and
finally followed by an amazing stern wave! Gas consumtion will also be
rather amazing.......No idea how many HP you would need to get the
MICRO to plane.
Just how many biscuits are you planning on carrying anyway?
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan...........
--- In bolger@y..., "avagomadmick" <mcnnrs@o...> wrote:
> Hello
> I know Phil only specifies a 4-6 hp motor for the Micro. But is it
> possible to put something on the back with a bit more grunt. For
> those days when you
> don't feel like a leisurely sail. The transom looks well braced. So
i
> was thinking something in the 10-15 hp range. Something heavy enough
> to bring the deadrise angle up for planing. And something powerful
> enough to pull a biscuit. Any ideas or experiences?
> Cheers
Hello
I know Phil only specifies a 4-6 hp motor for the Micro. But is it
possible to put something on the back with a bit more grunt. For
those days when you
don't feel like a leisurely sail. The transom looks well braced. So i
was thinking something in the 10-15 hp range. Something heavy enough
to bring the deadrise angle up for planing. And something powerful
enough to pull a biscuit. Any ideas or experiences?
Cheers
I know Phil only specifies a 4-6 hp motor for the Micro. But is it
possible to put something on the back with a bit more grunt. For
those days when you
don't feel like a leisurely sail. The transom looks well braced. So i
was thinking something in the 10-15 hp range. Something heavy enough
to bring the deadrise angle up for planing. And something powerful
enough to pull a biscuit. Any ideas or experiences?
Cheers