Re: Mooring anchor
We learned a lot about moorings during Hurricane Bob 10 years ago.
I had a 22' sloop moored in the harbor and we had a 7 foot tidal
surge. Another boat drifted down on top of mine and the two of them
went entirely through the yacht club boats which enmass lifted their
floating docks from their pilings and then onto lower county road.
My boat was at the edge of the pile with 14 holes in her. We patched
her up (with duct tape of course) and refloated her. She was sold
for scrap. This boat had a 100lb mushroom, 15' 3/8" chain, and 5/8"
nylon rode. The mooring chain and rode just went with her. Some
mooncusser got the rig.
I then went to a 150lb rig for my 18' Herreshoff. During the non-
storm, Enriquo (I think that was its name) my boat starred on the
channel 4 newscasts as they watched my boat at its mooring during the
70 kt. winds that came on shore. (ok, I tried to pull the boat but
the marine service refused to pull a sailbote! unbelievable.) The
boat (minus her rig, which I had pulled) just rode their like a
duck. The only difference was that I added another 10' of chain once
I realized she was going to have to ride out the storm.
With Micro (there, the Bolger post), I don't have to worry, I can
through her on the cradle and then pull the whole mess on shore and
out of harms way, or hopefully just put her on my yet to be homemade
trailer to take her out of harms way.
David Jost
"celebrating the purchase of a router, finally." and working on
Firefly in the 50 degree heat and a New England Patriots win!"
I had a 22' sloop moored in the harbor and we had a 7 foot tidal
surge. Another boat drifted down on top of mine and the two of them
went entirely through the yacht club boats which enmass lifted their
floating docks from their pilings and then onto lower county road.
My boat was at the edge of the pile with 14 holes in her. We patched
her up (with duct tape of course) and refloated her. She was sold
for scrap. This boat had a 100lb mushroom, 15' 3/8" chain, and 5/8"
nylon rode. The mooring chain and rode just went with her. Some
mooncusser got the rig.
I then went to a 150lb rig for my 18' Herreshoff. During the non-
storm, Enriquo (I think that was its name) my boat starred on the
channel 4 newscasts as they watched my boat at its mooring during the
70 kt. winds that came on shore. (ok, I tried to pull the boat but
the marine service refused to pull a sailbote! unbelievable.) The
boat (minus her rig, which I had pulled) just rode their like a
duck. The only difference was that I added another 10' of chain once
I realized she was going to have to ride out the storm.
With Micro (there, the Bolger post), I don't have to worry, I can
through her on the cradle and then pull the whole mess on shore and
out of harms way, or hopefully just put her on my yet to be homemade
trailer to take her out of harms way.
David Jost
"celebrating the purchase of a router, finally." and working on
Firefly in the 50 degree heat and a New England Patriots win!"
In a message dated 1/26/02 5:18:41 PM Central Standard Time,
welshman@...writes:
About 100 years ago. I used a truck tire filled with concrete and a bit of
re-bar attached to unidentifiable, but very substantial, bronze fitting
provided by a helpful local acquaintance to moor a boat in Barfleur. The
harbor there is too small and too well protected to make dragging a problem -
plus it dried out at low tide. The problem was that instead of sinking into
the hard clay bottom, even with a little help now and again with a shovel at
low tide, it kept scouring out, at unpredictable (at least to me) intervals.
"Informed locals" assured me that eventually it would plant itself so deeply
as to be entirely immobile, irretreivable and eventually incorporated in a
sedimentary rock formation where it would amaze some palentologist aeons
hence. It never happened. It gave me a little anxiety at times, but never any
problems while I had custody of the boat. However, after I left France, it
scoured out, on one low tide the boat settled on the fitting holding the
chain, the hull was punctured and the boat did not rise with the tide! Bad
business, and the person who inherited custody of the boat felt it was all my
fault. Which it probably was. I don't know what would make a satisfactory
mooring under the circumstances, but I can understand the popularity of
double keels in those waters.
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
welshman@...writes:
> If you have enough tidal rangeGood idea - but if you have too much tidal range ...
About 100 years ago. I used a truck tire filled with concrete and a bit of
re-bar attached to unidentifiable, but very substantial, bronze fitting
provided by a helpful local acquaintance to moor a boat in Barfleur. The
harbor there is too small and too well protected to make dragging a problem -
plus it dried out at low tide. The problem was that instead of sinking into
the hard clay bottom, even with a little help now and again with a shovel at
low tide, it kept scouring out, at unpredictable (at least to me) intervals.
"Informed locals" assured me that eventually it would plant itself so deeply
as to be entirely immobile, irretreivable and eventually incorporated in a
sedimentary rock formation where it would amaze some palentologist aeons
hence. It never happened. It gave me a little anxiety at times, but never any
problems while I had custody of the boat. However, after I left France, it
scoured out, on one low tide the boat settled on the fitting holding the
chain, the hull was punctured and the boat did not rise with the tide! Bad
business, and the person who inherited custody of the boat felt it was all my
fault. Which it probably was. I don't know what would make a satisfactory
mooring under the circumstances, but I can understand the popularity of
double keels in those waters.
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Curtis --
Thanks so much for thoughtful e-mail. What satisfaction it must bring
you to tell me eight month later "I told you so."
As for my mooring, the rig has been "field tested" in squalls with
recorded winds of over 40 knots with gusts to sixty with no dragging
or undo chafing. It also was put through its paces by several
uncharacteristic Summer Nor'westers featuring one - two days of winds
of 30 + knots with gusts to 50 and two to three foot chop marching
down the lake and breaking across the bow of the scooner. At last
inspection the chain and shackles were in excellent condition and,
judging by the wea,r the pennant would easily serve for another
season.
The Nor'wester in question was well past the season for that
anchorage, the boat only remaining there because it's a convenient
place to put it (which I did once the blow subsided.)
Yes the mooring dragged, but not because it was unsuited to it's
purpose (a cheap and simple way to keep a cheap and simple boat on
the water during the Summer.) I could have prevent this by wading out
on day two or even in the morning of day three and bailing the boat
but choose not to (too cold too windy too miserable.)
Bottomline:
I'll be using the same rig in the same place next Summer. Next Winter
(assuming the boat left on the water,) I'll be using the same rig,
but in a part of the lake more protected from our Winter blows.
134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
New York, New York 10001
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
Thanks so much for thoughtful e-mail. What satisfaction it must bring
you to tell me eight month later "I told you so."
As for my mooring, the rig has been "field tested" in squalls with
recorded winds of over 40 knots with gusts to sixty with no dragging
or undo chafing. It also was put through its paces by several
uncharacteristic Summer Nor'westers featuring one - two days of winds
of 30 + knots with gusts to 50 and two to three foot chop marching
down the lake and breaking across the bow of the scooner. At last
inspection the chain and shackles were in excellent condition and,
judging by the wea,r the pennant would easily serve for another
season.
The Nor'wester in question was well past the season for that
anchorage, the boat only remaining there because it's a convenient
place to put it (which I did once the blow subsided.)
Yes the mooring dragged, but not because it was unsuited to it's
purpose (a cheap and simple way to keep a cheap and simple boat on
the water during the Summer.) I could have prevent this by wading out
on day two or even in the morning of day three and bailing the boat
but choose not to (too cold too windy too miserable.)
Bottomline:
I'll be using the same rig in the same place next Summer. Next Winter
(assuming the boat left on the water,) I'll be using the same rig,
but in a part of the lake more protected from our Winter blows.
>David,C.E.P.
>
>I had been wondering how your mooring had held up. Sounds like it failed
>;-)
>(It's not supposed to drag - period! "It was OK, except when things turned
>nasty" is hardly a ringing endorsement. )
>
>How is the chain/pennant holding up?
>
>> I anchored the LSME on a block of block of cement about 12" in
>> diameter x 12" inches tall. I'd guess the weight at about 100 pounds.
>>
>> The anchor held under the most adverse Summer conditions we
>> experience, including a 3 day/ 35 knot blow out of the NW . Only on
>> the third day when the chop finally filled the boat with water did
>> the extra inertia of the water in the boat cause the block to drag.
>> If covers had been in place to prevent the cockpits from filling, I'm
>> sure it would have held.
>
>You may recall our exchange back in April:
>================================================
>>DRAGGING:
>>> Use a 100# mushroom in the muck.
>>The bigger the anchor, the better. Be aware that blocks have little
>>holding power, maybe 10% of an anchor of similar weight (unless you
>>physically bury the block deep into the bottom). Your bucket of
>>concrete will have even less.
>
>This part I'm not too worried about. This particular block'o'crete is
>field tested and exhibits excellent "burying in the muck" behavior.
>
>>RUST:
>>> couple the proper length of 3/8" chain to this, then a swivel, then
>>> another length of similar or lighter chain.
>>I've found that light galvanized chain does well when new, but even
>>3/8 chain can rust away to nothing in a season or two. Your 3/16,
>>800# chain sounds like the minimum for anchoring, where it will be
>>inspected with every use. PLEASE DON'T RELY ON IT FOR A MOORING!!!
>
>I found a table of horizontal forces and #800 (that's working, not
>breaking strength) is far more than the LSME can be expected to
>generate in a 60 knot wind. On that basis, I thought the 3/16 would
>be sufficient. However, I had not considered the rust factor. Have to
>keep an eye on how quickly it's eroding.
>
>>FOULING:
>>> couple your mooring pennant to the top or the chain
>>> with a swivel. then attach a mooring float.
>>One swivel is essential, Two are better. And I've found the swivels
>>rust much faster than either chain or shackles.
>
>This was just stupid on my part. Don't know why I overlooked it.
>
>>CHAFING:
>>Your pennant will fail because of chafing, not because your stem,
>>mast, and cleat all failed. 3/8 sounds very light for a boat you
>>care about.
>
>Again, I considered the table of horzontal forces, but not chafe.
>Another thing to keep an eye on. The way the line runs, chafe should
>be very, very low. But it wouldn't hurt to make the line bigger.
>
>>I use nylon, not polypropylene, BECAUSE it sinks. Most of my
>>experience with polypropylene is untangling it from prop or rudder.
>>Your 25' will be a prop-magnet.
>
>This I'm not worried about. There might be a dozen boats at the
>height of the Summer. All well away (they need deeper water.)
>
>>And most importantly, rely on local knowledge. If there are people
>>nearby who have moored similar sized boats for 20, 40, or more years,
>>ask them what works! You may be surprised (and it never hurts to
>>defer to their suggestions - they're good people to be friends with)
>
>I think compared to the local boats, I'm over-geared. But hey, this
>is Montauk. Things are a little more relaxed (or cavalier.) I got the
>cement from a Capri 16 that sat on it year-round for at least 4 years
>through thick and thin till it was destroyed in a Summer squall. The
>mast was ripped off, but the anchor held. I'm also at about double
>the scope of the typical set up.
>================================================
>
>
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
>MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
New York, New York 10001
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
David,
I had been wondering how your mooring had held up. Sounds like it failed
;-)
(It's not supposed to drag - period! "It was OK, except when things turned
nasty" is hardly a ringing endorsement. )
How is the chain/pennant holding up?
================================================
field tested and exhibits excellent "burying in the muck" behavior.
breaking strength) is far more than the LSME can be expected to
generate in a 60 knot wind. On that basis, I thought the 3/16 would
be sufficient. However, I had not considered the rust factor. Have to
keep an eye on how quickly it's eroding.
Another thing to keep an eye on. The way the line runs, chafe should
be very, very low. But it wouldn't hurt to make the line bigger.
height of the Summer. All well away (they need deeper water.)
is Montauk. Things are a little more relaxed (or cavalier.) I got the
cement from a Capri 16 that sat on it year-round for at least 4 years
through thick and thin till it was destroyed in a Summer squall. The
mast was ripped off, but the anchor held. I'm also at about double
the scope of the typical set up.
================================================
I had been wondering how your mooring had held up. Sounds like it failed
;-)
(It's not supposed to drag - period! "It was OK, except when things turned
nasty" is hardly a ringing endorsement. )
How is the chain/pennant holding up?
> I anchored the LSME on a block of block of cement about 12" inYou may recall our exchange back in April:
> diameter x 12" inches tall. I'd guess the weight at about 100 pounds.
>
> The anchor held under the most adverse Summer conditions we
> experience, including a 3 day/ 35 knot blow out of the NW . Only on
> the third day when the chop finally filled the boat with water did
> the extra inertia of the water in the boat cause the block to drag.
> If covers had been in place to prevent the cockpits from filling, I'm
> sure it would have held.
================================================
>DRAGGING:This part I'm not too worried about. This particular block'o'crete is
>> Use a 100# mushroom in the muck.
>The bigger the anchor, the better. Be aware that blocks have little
>holding power, maybe 10% of an anchor of similar weight (unless you
>physically bury the block deep into the bottom). Your bucket of
>concrete will have even less.
field tested and exhibits excellent "burying in the muck" behavior.
>RUST:I found a table of horizontal forces and #800 (that's working, not
>> couple the proper length of 3/8" chain to this, then a swivel, then
>> another length of similar or lighter chain.
>I've found that light galvanized chain does well when new, but even
>3/8 chain can rust away to nothing in a season or two. Your 3/16,
>800# chain sounds like the minimum for anchoring, where it will be
>inspected with every use. PLEASE DON'T RELY ON IT FOR A MOORING!!!
breaking strength) is far more than the LSME can be expected to
generate in a 60 knot wind. On that basis, I thought the 3/16 would
be sufficient. However, I had not considered the rust factor. Have to
keep an eye on how quickly it's eroding.
>FOULING:This was just stupid on my part. Don't know why I overlooked it.
>> couple your mooring pennant to the top or the chain
>> with a swivel. then attach a mooring float.
>One swivel is essential, Two are better. And I've found the swivels
>rust much faster than either chain or shackles.
>CHAFING:Again, I considered the table of horzontal forces, but not chafe.
>Your pennant will fail because of chafing, not because your stem,
>mast, and cleat all failed. 3/8 sounds very light for a boat you
>care about.
Another thing to keep an eye on. The way the line runs, chafe should
be very, very low. But it wouldn't hurt to make the line bigger.
>I use nylon, not polypropylene, BECAUSE it sinks. Most of myThis I'm not worried about. There might be a dozen boats at the
>experience with polypropylene is untangling it from prop or rudder.
>Your 25' will be a prop-magnet.
height of the Summer. All well away (they need deeper water.)
>And most importantly, rely on local knowledge. If there are peopleI think compared to the local boats, I'm over-geared. But hey, this
>nearby who have moored similar sized boats for 20, 40, or more years,
>ask them what works! You may be surprised (and it never hurts to
>defer to their suggestions - they're good people to be friends with)
is Montauk. Things are a little more relaxed (or cavalier.) I got the
cement from a Capri 16 that sat on it year-round for at least 4 years
through thick and thin till it was destroyed in a Summer squall. The
mast was ripped off, but the anchor held. I'm also at about double
the scope of the typical set up.
================================================
Well, I've finally got off my duff and committed to build my "Bobcat",
Of course the first thing I had to remember was" measure twice cut
once". Fortunately I had not made irretrievable errors.
Of course the first thing I had to remember was" measure twice cut
once". Fortunately I had not made irretrievable errors.
> Bob Chamberland
All I can say is that I'm glad I'm not downwind from some of the
mooring solutions that have been proposed. But then an 18' boat can be
an even ton like my Cape Dory Typhoon, or somewhat less like my
Hawkeye. I would recommend Chapmans or the West catalog for a start.
Just remember it's a lot easier to move a weight underwater than out
of the water.
Bob Chamberland
mooring solutions that have been proposed. But then an 18' boat can be
an even ton like my Cape Dory Typhoon, or somewhat less like my
Hawkeye. I would recommend Chapmans or the West catalog for a start.
Just remember it's a lot easier to move a weight underwater than out
of the water.
Bob Chamberland
If you have enough tidal range pour it at a mid tide spot and after it
sets up for a while come over it as the tide comes in cleat it down with
a rope you can cut and let the tide lift it, move the boat over to where
you want the mooring and cut the rope. Run the mooring line first. If
your cleats can stand the strain, you can move a 300 LB mooring this
way. Wouldn't want to try it after it had settled in the mud however. I
have actually done this successfully.
HJ
Fraser Howell wrote:
sets up for a while come over it as the tide comes in cleat it down with
a rope you can cut and let the tide lift it, move the boat over to where
you want the mooring and cut the rope. Run the mooring line first. If
your cleats can stand the strain, you can move a 300 LB mooring this
way. Wouldn't want to try it after it had settled in the mud however. I
have actually done this successfully.
HJ
Fraser Howell wrote:
>
> Moorings are underestimated. The only boating damage I've had is
> from other boats coming adrift from or dragging theirs.
> My Chebacco is moored to a poured concrete block about 18" square, 6
> inches thick, poured into a plywood form. A short length of large chain
> was embedded when I poured the concrete. My peace of mind would like
> something bigger, but that was the heaviest chunk I could move and drop
> by hand. It is laid in a silted bottom. The theory is the longer it is
> in place, the more secure it becomes, as it settles somewhat. Once its
> been in place for a while, it is a bastard to move because you have to
> break suction on a straight lift. Once it is free it drags fairly
> easily, and that is what concerns me.
> I've heard of a better scheme since then. Instead of building a
> form, use an old car or truck tire. It would be a little easier getting
> down to the waterfront, if it didn't get away from you.
> Cheers
> Fraser Howell
> Halifax
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
My father used to be an honorary harbor master on Waiheke island,
administering mooring sites. From memory the most common type of mooring was
two railway wheels. Attached to the wheels where a series of regulation
sized and length chain. I can't remember what the chain sizes where, but I
do remember that the size of the chain almost made what was on the end of it
irrelevant.
These moorings where for cruising yachts, so smaller boats wouldn't need to
be as substantial, but it's probably still worth looking at the size of the
bottom chain being attached to them.
Stuart Crawford
New Zealand
on 27/1/02 6:41 AM, Fraser Howell atfraser.howell@...wrote:
administering mooring sites. From memory the most common type of mooring was
two railway wheels. Attached to the wheels where a series of regulation
sized and length chain. I can't remember what the chain sizes where, but I
do remember that the size of the chain almost made what was on the end of it
irrelevant.
These moorings where for cruising yachts, so smaller boats wouldn't need to
be as substantial, but it's probably still worth looking at the size of the
bottom chain being attached to them.
Stuart Crawford
New Zealand
on 27/1/02 6:41 AM, Fraser Howell atfraser.howell@...wrote:
> Moorings are underestimated. The only boating damage I've had is
> from other boats coming adrift from or dragging theirs.
> My Chebacco is moored to a poured concrete block about 18" square, 6
> inches thick, poured into a plywood form. A short length of large chain
> was embedded when I poured the concrete. My peace of mind would like
> something bigger, but that was the heaviest chunk I could move and drop
> by hand. It is laid in a silted bottom. The theory is the longer it is
> in place, the more secure it becomes, as it settles somewhat. Once its
> been in place for a while, it is a bastard to move because you have to
> break suction on a straight lift. Once it is free it drags fairly
> easily, and that is what concerns me.
> I've heard of a better scheme since then. Instead of building a
> form, use an old car or truck tire. It would be a little easier getting
> down to the waterfront, if it didn't get away from you.
> Cheers
> Fraser Howell
> Halifax
Moorings are underestimated. The only boating damage I've had is
from other boats coming adrift from or dragging theirs.
My Chebacco is moored to a poured concrete block about 18" square, 6
inches thick, poured into a plywood form. A short length of large chain
was embedded when I poured the concrete. My peace of mind would like
something bigger, but that was the heaviest chunk I could move and drop
by hand. It is laid in a silted bottom. The theory is the longer it is
in place, the more secure it becomes, as it settles somewhat. Once its
been in place for a while, it is a bastard to move because you have to
break suction on a straight lift. Once it is free it drags fairly
easily, and that is what concerns me.
I've heard of a better scheme since then. Instead of building a
form, use an old car or truck tire. It would be a little easier getting
down to the waterfront, if it didn't get away from you.
Cheers
Fraser Howell
Halifax
from other boats coming adrift from or dragging theirs.
My Chebacco is moored to a poured concrete block about 18" square, 6
inches thick, poured into a plywood form. A short length of large chain
was embedded when I poured the concrete. My peace of mind would like
something bigger, but that was the heaviest chunk I could move and drop
by hand. It is laid in a silted bottom. The theory is the longer it is
in place, the more secure it becomes, as it settles somewhat. Once its
been in place for a while, it is a bastard to move because you have to
break suction on a straight lift. Once it is free it drags fairly
easily, and that is what concerns me.
I've heard of a better scheme since then. Instead of building a
form, use an old car or truck tire. It would be a little easier getting
down to the waterfront, if it didn't get away from you.
Cheers
Fraser Howell
Halifax
I anchored the LSME on a block of block of cement about 12" in
diameter x 12" inches tall. I'd guess the weight at about 100 pounds.
The anchor held under the most adverse Summer conditions we
experience, including a 3 day/ 35 knot blow out of the NW . Only on
the third day when the chop finally filled the boat with water did
the extra inertia of the water in the boat cause the block to drag.
If covers had been in place to prevent the cockpits from filling, I'm
sure it would have held.
YIBB,
David
134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
New York, New York 10001
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
diameter x 12" inches tall. I'd guess the weight at about 100 pounds.
The anchor held under the most adverse Summer conditions we
experience, including a 3 day/ 35 knot blow out of the NW . Only on
the third day when the chop finally filled the boat with water did
the extra inertia of the water in the boat cause the block to drag.
If covers had been in place to prevent the cockpits from filling, I'm
sure it would have held.
YIBB,
David
>A lot of people around here use coffee cans, filled with concrete andC.E.P.
>an eye bolt to attach a rope to. Perhaps a larger can or series of
>cans would be the ticket. A couple of 2-4 gallon buckets could be
>used as molds for the concrete if you need larger slugs. A thought
>would be to use a 2 gallon (7 litre)or larger plastic bucket with
>some rebar ( Steel concrete re-enforcing bar) put through holes in
>the bottom of the sides of the bucket. Once the concrete cures, cut
>the bucket off of the concrete and use the whole thing as an anchor,
>with the steel as hooks or flukes. You would actually want something
>that will dig into the bottom of whatever, as opposed to just dead-
>weight, like an engine block. This can be dragged along the bottom,
>if it, (the bottom), is smooth. It all depends on what you want the
>anchor to do, Keep you there for a prolonged time or just temporarily
>(the cans are used for fishing, the hooks are used for sleeping or
>parking for 1 X days, weeks, years).
>
>Just a redneck solution for bit of a problem.
>
>Steve Lewis, Lewis Boats.
>www.angelfire.com/ego/lewisboatworks
>
>"She was just a plywood old plywood boat, with a '75 Johnson, with
>electric choke." Alan Jackson: Drive. 2002.
>
>
>
>--- In bolger@y..., "kinguq" <daniel.pike@l...> wrote:
>> Hi
>>
>> Problem is that here they make cinder blocks out of a sort of
>popped
>> clay gravel, kind of like popcorn. It is very light, in fact it
>would
>> almost float! Not so good for a mooring anchor I should think.
>>
>> Another possibility is the temporary signpost bases they make for
>> construction sights. These are heavy cement pyramids with a hole in
>> the middle, in fact they look just like a pyramid anchor. I think
>one
>> (or two) of these might be just the ticket.
>>
>> I will visit the dump tomorrow and see what I can come up with.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Daniel
>> Tromso, Norway.
>>
>>
>> --- In bolger@y..., "Harry W. James" <welshman@p...> wrote:
>> > Do you have what we call cinderblocks up there. The are
>rectangular
>> > hollow concrete blocks
>> > like this
>> > _ _
>> > 1_1_l
>> >
>> > that are used for foundations and support for college student's
>book
>> > shelves. I strung 11 of them together on a chain, and attached it
>> to a
>> > rope as a mooring. The mooring held a 26 ft boat similar to a
>> Tumlaren,
>> > with a very tall mast (40 ft) with lots of windage through 50 kt
>> storms.
>> >
>> > kinguq wrote:
>> > >
>> > > Good morning:
>> > >
>> > > I am just finishing up a Bolger Tortoise, which I will use to
>row
>> out
>> > > to a mooring where I will keep a larger boat anchored. Which
>> > > qualifies this as a "Bolger" post!
>> > >
>> > > I would like to hear some ideas on what to use as a mooring
>anchor
>> > > for an 18 ft boat. Ideally it would be something (or things) I
>> could
>> > > scrounge, and that I would be able to handle with perhaps a
>> couple of
>> > > helpers. I have thought of making something with concrete,
>using
>> mesh
>> > > bags full of rocks, using an old engine block, etc.. I would
>like
>> to
>> > > hear what other people have used to get some ideas.
>> > >
>> > > Thanks,
>> > >
>> > > D
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
>MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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>
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134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
New York, New York 10001
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
A lot of people around here use coffee cans, filled with concrete and
an eye bolt to attach a rope to. Perhaps a larger can or series of
cans would be the ticket. A couple of 2-4 gallon buckets could be
used as molds for the concrete if you need larger slugs. A thought
would be to use a 2 gallon (7 litre)or larger plastic bucket with
some rebar ( Steel concrete re-enforcing bar) put through holes in
the bottom of the sides of the bucket. Once the concrete cures, cut
the bucket off of the concrete and use the whole thing as an anchor,
with the steel as hooks or flukes. You would actually want something
that will dig into the bottom of whatever, as opposed to just dead-
weight, like an engine block. This can be dragged along the bottom,
if it, (the bottom), is smooth. It all depends on what you want the
anchor to do, Keep you there for a prolonged time or just temporarily
(the cans are used for fishing, the hooks are used for sleeping or
parking for 1 X days, weeks, years).
Just a redneck solution for bit of a problem.
Steve Lewis, Lewis Boats.
www.angelfire.com/ego/lewisboatworks
"She was just a plywood old plywood boat, with a '75 Johnson, with
electric choke." Alan Jackson: Drive. 2002.
an eye bolt to attach a rope to. Perhaps a larger can or series of
cans would be the ticket. A couple of 2-4 gallon buckets could be
used as molds for the concrete if you need larger slugs. A thought
would be to use a 2 gallon (7 litre)or larger plastic bucket with
some rebar ( Steel concrete re-enforcing bar) put through holes in
the bottom of the sides of the bucket. Once the concrete cures, cut
the bucket off of the concrete and use the whole thing as an anchor,
with the steel as hooks or flukes. You would actually want something
that will dig into the bottom of whatever, as opposed to just dead-
weight, like an engine block. This can be dragged along the bottom,
if it, (the bottom), is smooth. It all depends on what you want the
anchor to do, Keep you there for a prolonged time or just temporarily
(the cans are used for fishing, the hooks are used for sleeping or
parking for 1 X days, weeks, years).
Just a redneck solution for bit of a problem.
Steve Lewis, Lewis Boats.
www.angelfire.com/ego/lewisboatworks
"She was just a plywood old plywood boat, with a '75 Johnson, with
electric choke." Alan Jackson: Drive. 2002.
--- In bolger@y..., "kinguq" <daniel.pike@l...> wrote:
> Hi
>
> Problem is that here they make cinder blocks out of a sort of
popped
> clay gravel, kind of like popcorn. It is very light, in fact it
would
> almost float! Not so good for a mooring anchor I should think.
>
> Another possibility is the temporary signpost bases they make for
> construction sights. These are heavy cement pyramids with a hole in
> the middle, in fact they look just like a pyramid anchor. I think
one
> (or two) of these might be just the ticket.
>
> I will visit the dump tomorrow and see what I can come up with.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Daniel
> Tromso, Norway.
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "Harry W. James" <welshman@p...> wrote:
> > Do you have what we call cinderblocks up there. The are
rectangular
> > hollow concrete blocks
> > like this
> > _ _
> > 1_1_l
> >
> > that are used for foundations and support for college student's
book
> > shelves. I strung 11 of them together on a chain, and attached it
> to a
> > rope as a mooring. The mooring held a 26 ft boat similar to a
> Tumlaren,
> > with a very tall mast (40 ft) with lots of windage through 50 kt
> storms.
> >
> > kinguq wrote:
> > >
> > > Good morning:
> > >
> > > I am just finishing up a Bolger Tortoise, which I will use to
row
> out
> > > to a mooring where I will keep a larger boat anchored. Which
> > > qualifies this as a "Bolger" post!
> > >
> > > I would like to hear some ideas on what to use as a mooring
anchor
> > > for an 18 ft boat. Ideally it would be something (or things) I
> could
> > > scrounge, and that I would be able to handle with perhaps a
> couple of
> > > helpers. I have thought of making something with concrete,
using
> mesh
> > > bags full of rocks, using an old engine block, etc.. I would
like
> to
> > > hear what other people have used to get some ideas.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > D
Hi
Problem is that here they make cinder blocks out of a sort of popped
clay gravel, kind of like popcorn. It is very light, in fact it would
almost float! Not so good for a mooring anchor I should think.
Another possibility is the temporary signpost bases they make for
construction sights. These are heavy cement pyramids with a hole in
the middle, in fact they look just like a pyramid anchor. I think one
(or two) of these might be just the ticket.
I will visit the dump tomorrow and see what I can come up with.
Thanks,
Daniel
Tromso, Norway.
Problem is that here they make cinder blocks out of a sort of popped
clay gravel, kind of like popcorn. It is very light, in fact it would
almost float! Not so good for a mooring anchor I should think.
Another possibility is the temporary signpost bases they make for
construction sights. These are heavy cement pyramids with a hole in
the middle, in fact they look just like a pyramid anchor. I think one
(or two) of these might be just the ticket.
I will visit the dump tomorrow and see what I can come up with.
Thanks,
Daniel
Tromso, Norway.
--- In bolger@y..., "Harry W. James" <welshman@p...> wrote:
> Do you have what we call cinderblocks up there. The are rectangular
> hollow concrete blocks
> like this
> _ _
> 1_1_l
>
> that are used for foundations and support for college student's book
> shelves. I strung 11 of them together on a chain, and attached it
to a
> rope as a mooring. The mooring held a 26 ft boat similar to a
Tumlaren,
> with a very tall mast (40 ft) with lots of windage through 50 kt
storms.
>
> kinguq wrote:
> >
> > Good morning:
> >
> > I am just finishing up a Bolger Tortoise, which I will use to row
out
> > to a mooring where I will keep a larger boat anchored. Which
> > qualifies this as a "Bolger" post!
> >
> > I would like to hear some ideas on what to use as a mooring anchor
> > for an 18 ft boat. Ideally it would be something (or things) I
could
> > scrounge, and that I would be able to handle with perhaps a
couple of
> > helpers. I have thought of making something with concrete, using
mesh
> > bags full of rocks, using an old engine block, etc.. I would like
to
> > hear what other people have used to get some ideas.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > D
Cinder blocks have a bad habit of dissolving. If it were my boat I think
I'd use something else.
Phil Smith
At 06:29 PM 1/24/02 -0900, you wrote:
I'd use something else.
Phil Smith
At 06:29 PM 1/24/02 -0900, you wrote:
>Do you have what we call cinderblocks up there. The are rectangular
>hollow concrete blocks
>like this
> _ _
>1_1_l
>
>that are used for foundations and support for college student's book
>shelves. I strung 11 of them together on a chain, and attached it to a
>rope as a mooring. The mooring held a 26 ft boat similar to a Tumlaren,
>with a very tall mast (40 ft) with lots of windage through 50 kt storms.
>
>kinguq wrote:
> >
> > Good morning:
> >
> > I am just finishing up a Bolger Tortoise, which I will use to row out
> > to a mooring where I will keep a larger boat anchored. Which
> > qualifies this as a "Bolger" post!
> >
> > I would like to hear some ideas on what to use as a mooring anchor
> > for an 18 ft boat. Ideally it would be something (or things) I could
> > scrounge, and that I would be able to handle with perhaps a couple of
> > helpers. I have thought of making something with concrete, using mesh
> > bags full of rocks, using an old engine block, etc.. I would like to
> > hear what other people have used to get some ideas.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > D
Do you have what we call cinderblocks up there. The are rectangular
hollow concrete blocks
like this
_ _
1_1_l
that are used for foundations and support for college student's book
shelves. I strung 11 of them together on a chain, and attached it to a
rope as a mooring. The mooring held a 26 ft boat similar to a Tumlaren,
with a very tall mast (40 ft) with lots of windage through 50 kt storms.
kinguq wrote:
hollow concrete blocks
like this
_ _
1_1_l
that are used for foundations and support for college student's book
shelves. I strung 11 of them together on a chain, and attached it to a
rope as a mooring. The mooring held a 26 ft boat similar to a Tumlaren,
with a very tall mast (40 ft) with lots of windage through 50 kt storms.
kinguq wrote:
>
> Good morning:
>
> I am just finishing up a Bolger Tortoise, which I will use to row out
> to a mooring where I will keep a larger boat anchored. Which
> qualifies this as a "Bolger" post!
>
> I would like to hear some ideas on what to use as a mooring anchor
> for an 18 ft boat. Ideally it would be something (or things) I could
> scrounge, and that I would be able to handle with perhaps a couple of
> helpers. I have thought of making something with concrete, using mesh
> bags full of rocks, using an old engine block, etc.. I would like to
> hear what other people have used to get some ideas.
>
> Thanks,
>
> D
Dan,
It would be helpful if we knew what kind of bottom you were
anchoring in and whether this area is fresh water / or tidal.
Here is local practice in New England (ocean). How much does the
boat weigh?
mud - dor mor pyramid style anchor, mushroom style, or helix type.
The screw auger helix type is quite good in areas subject to storms.
They don't have the bad habit that the mushroom has of pulling out
and not resetting.
sand - dor mor, or helix
rock - granite blocks, old Saabs, railroad axles,
If this is a fresh water situation, then the parameters are a little
different.
Happy Boating,
David Jost
It would be helpful if we knew what kind of bottom you were
anchoring in and whether this area is fresh water / or tidal.
Here is local practice in New England (ocean). How much does the
boat weigh?
mud - dor mor pyramid style anchor, mushroom style, or helix type.
The screw auger helix type is quite good in areas subject to storms.
They don't have the bad habit that the mushroom has of pulling out
and not resetting.
sand - dor mor, or helix
rock - granite blocks, old Saabs, railroad axles,
If this is a fresh water situation, then the parameters are a little
different.
Happy Boating,
David Jost
Good morning:
I am just finishing up a Bolger Tortoise, which I will use to row out
to a mooring where I will keep a larger boat anchored. Which
qualifies this as a "Bolger" post!
I would like to hear some ideas on what to use as a mooring anchor
for an 18 ft boat. Ideally it would be something (or things) I could
scrounge, and that I would be able to handle with perhaps a couple of
helpers. I have thought of making something with concrete, using mesh
bags full of rocks, using an old engine block, etc.. I would like to
hear what other people have used to get some ideas.
Thanks,
Daniel Pike
Tromsø, Norway.
(Where the sun rose on Friday for the first time in 2 months)
I am just finishing up a Bolger Tortoise, which I will use to row out
to a mooring where I will keep a larger boat anchored. Which
qualifies this as a "Bolger" post!
I would like to hear some ideas on what to use as a mooring anchor
for an 18 ft boat. Ideally it would be something (or things) I could
scrounge, and that I would be able to handle with perhaps a couple of
helpers. I have thought of making something with concrete, using mesh
bags full of rocks, using an old engine block, etc.. I would like to
hear what other people have used to get some ideas.
Thanks,
Daniel Pike
Tromsø, Norway.
(Where the sun rose on Friday for the first time in 2 months)