Re: Wyo Update
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@g...>
wrote: I like the paint tray idea. I will try it.
Similar, cheap and disposable are the aluminum trays I buy at a food
wholesaler. They have a variety of shapses and sizes, I buy a 7"
diameter, stack of 50 for a couple of bucks.
They're like what a Chinese restaurant might put a noodle dish or egg
foo younfg in.
Bruce Hector
http://www.brucesboats.com
Back from mixing sweat, Sleeman's Cream Ale and PL Premium into a new
goop to bond the outwales of the TIMS Sharpie bow unit. This time
I'll leave the screws in for backup. She's about ready to try a
floating mate up as a 30 foot sharpie.
wrote: I like the paint tray idea. I will try it.
Similar, cheap and disposable are the aluminum trays I buy at a food
wholesaler. They have a variety of shapses and sizes, I buy a 7"
diameter, stack of 50 for a couple of bucks.
They're like what a Chinese restaurant might put a noodle dish or egg
foo younfg in.
Bruce Hector
http://www.brucesboats.com
Back from mixing sweat, Sleeman's Cream Ale and PL Premium into a new
goop to bond the outwales of the TIMS Sharpie bow unit. This time
I'll leave the screws in for backup. She's about ready to try a
floating mate up as a 30 foot sharpie.
I like the paint tray idea. I will try it.
I'm feeling guilty about complaining since others have it worse but it's
what you used to I guess. Beer and AC the staples of life in Colorado this
summer. I like it!
Jeff
I'm feeling guilty about complaining since others have it worse but it's
what you used to I guess. Beer and AC the staples of life in Colorado this
summer. I like it!
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "David & Shirley Wallace" <swallace@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 6:00 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Wyo Update
>
> 102*F is only considered warm here [ Inland Central Queensland ] , I used
> tropical hardener and only mix small batches and only allow 10 - 15
minutes
> for working , if I haven't used it in 15 minutes it's too late , one thing
I
> do is to pour the mixed epoxy into a paint tray as it doesn't heat up as
> fast as it does in a pot , I also have a big industrial fan cooling the
> workshop [ actually it mainly just blows hot air around but it's better
than
> nothing ] and the work piece [ canoe ] , but I do knock off work when the
> temp hits 115*F , then I go inside and have a beer in the air-conditioning
> , past 115*f and just getting up to get a beer is a effort
>
> Regards
> David Wallace
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jeff" <boatbuilding@...>
> To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2003 3:22 AM
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Wyo Update
>
>
> > I actually tried chilling the epoxy but not the insulated cups. The
> biggest
> > problem I have found is not getting it mixed but when it hits the hot
> > plywood, it starts setting almost instantly. I mean that within 30
> seconds
> > the brush starts getting sticky. I just plain weird how it responds.
> >
> > You don't get drips much, it just stretches down off the wood like
spider
> > webs. Kind a cool really.
> >
> > Jeff
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Richard Spelling" <richard@...>
> > To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 10:43 AM
> > Subject: Re: [bolger] Wyo Update
> >
> >
> > > Chill your epoxy, silly. Assuming YOU can stand the heet without
> starting
> > to smoke.
> > >
> > > Have a spare fridge? Use foam cups, they'll keep your mix from heating
> up
> > to fast. Hopefully you will then have it all applied
> > > before it cooks off.
> > >
> > > And, it'll still be hard in 6 hours.
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "jeff" <boatbuilding@...>
> > > To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> > > Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 11:17 AM
> > > Subject: [bolger] Wyo Update
> > >
> > >
> > > > I've had a fair number of emails asking about my progress on the
> Wyoming
> > so I figured I'd put out a general message to the group.
> > > >
> > > > I'm launching the Trilars this weekend and I've been trying to work
on
> > the Wyoming for the last month but the climate is hindering
> > > much progress. I know other places are hot but we've been averaging
> just
> > under 100 degrees every day and almost a week of 100 plus
> > > since June 15th. 102 today so it's fair to say working with epoxy is
> > almost not an option. Besides, when your garage faces west
> > > into the sun, evenings have gotten over 105 degrees inside the garage.
> > Basically I head for the AC and ponder the next day.
> > > >
> > > > I guess I'll have to take some lessons from you folks in the
Southwest
> > on how to handle epoxy in this heat. It starts heating and
> > > smoking in just a couple minutes and that's with the "Very Slow"
> hardener.
> > Early mornings on the weekends is about my only time to
> > > epoxy. The good thing is that it sets hard enough for sanding in 6
> hours!
> > > >
> > > > I've not posted anything on my website partly because of being lazy
> and
> > partly because nothing much has changed. I'll start up
> > > again in a week or two giving updates as I'll be trying to get the
> cockpit
> > area finished up and into storage.
> > > >
> > > > Jeff
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > > > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
> posts
> > > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip>
> away
> > > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
MA,
> > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > >
> > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> >http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
posts
> > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip>
away
> > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Or are the low-e window films compatable with acrylic panels?
>
>
> The question that arrises is whether there is a non-glass equivalent.
>
> Doug
I have been replacing the windows throughout my house. The low "E" option was only $7 each so I sprung for it. The difference is remarkable.
Charming wife unit insisted that we needed more light in the house. I agreed (dare I not?) so twelve feet of wall on the hot side of the house was replaced by a bay window.
I expected the temp in that area to rise 10F during the Georgia summer days but so far the windows seem to be a better heat reflector than the wall was.
The question that arrises is whether there is a non-glass equivalent.
Doug
Charming wife unit insisted that we needed more light in the house. I agreed (dare I not?) so twelve feet of wall on the hot side of the house was replaced by a bay window.
I expected the temp in that area to rise 10F during the Georgia summer days but so far the windows seem to be a better heat reflector than the wall was.
The question that arrises is whether there is a non-glass equivalent.
Doug
102*F is only considered warm here [ Inland Central Queensland ] , I used
tropical hardener and only mix small batches and only allow 10 - 15 minutes
for working , if I haven't used it in 15 minutes it's too late , one thing I
do is to pour the mixed epoxy into a paint tray as it doesn't heat up as
fast as it does in a pot , I also have a big industrial fan cooling the
workshop [ actually it mainly just blows hot air around but it's better than
nothing ] and the work piece [ canoe ] , but I do knock off work when the
temp hits 115*F , then I go inside and have a beer in the air-conditioning
, past 115*f and just getting up to get a beer is a effort
Regards
David Wallace
tropical hardener and only mix small batches and only allow 10 - 15 minutes
for working , if I haven't used it in 15 minutes it's too late , one thing I
do is to pour the mixed epoxy into a paint tray as it doesn't heat up as
fast as it does in a pot , I also have a big industrial fan cooling the
workshop [ actually it mainly just blows hot air around but it's better than
nothing ] and the work piece [ canoe ] , but I do knock off work when the
temp hits 115*F , then I go inside and have a beer in the air-conditioning
, past 115*f and just getting up to get a beer is a effort
Regards
David Wallace
----- Original Message -----
From: "jeff" <boatbuilding@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2003 3:22 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Wyo Update
> I actually tried chilling the epoxy but not the insulated cups. The
biggest
> problem I have found is not getting it mixed but when it hits the hot
> plywood, it starts setting almost instantly. I mean that within 30
seconds
> the brush starts getting sticky. I just plain weird how it responds.
>
> You don't get drips much, it just stretches down off the wood like spider
> webs. Kind a cool really.
>
> Jeff
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Spelling" <richard@...>
> To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 10:43 AM
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Wyo Update
>
>
> > Chill your epoxy, silly. Assuming YOU can stand the heet without
starting
> to smoke.
> >
> > Have a spare fridge? Use foam cups, they'll keep your mix from heating
up
> to fast. Hopefully you will then have it all applied
> > before it cooks off.
> >
> > And, it'll still be hard in 6 hours.
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "jeff" <boatbuilding@...>
> > To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 11:17 AM
> > Subject: [bolger] Wyo Update
> >
> >
> > > I've had a fair number of emails asking about my progress on the
Wyoming
> so I figured I'd put out a general message to the group.
> > >
> > > I'm launching the Trilars this weekend and I've been trying to work on
> the Wyoming for the last month but the climate is hindering
> > much progress. I know other places are hot but we've been averaging
just
> under 100 degrees every day and almost a week of 100 plus
> > since June 15th. 102 today so it's fair to say working with epoxy is
> almost not an option. Besides, when your garage faces west
> > into the sun, evenings have gotten over 105 degrees inside the garage.
> Basically I head for the AC and ponder the next day.
> > >
> > > I guess I'll have to take some lessons from you folks in the Southwest
> on how to handle epoxy in this heat. It starts heating and
> > smoking in just a couple minutes and that's with the "Very Slow"
hardener.
> Early mornings on the weekends is about my only time to
> > epoxy. The good thing is that it sets hard enough for sanding in 6
hours!
> > >
> > > I've not posted anything on my website partly because of being lazy
and
> partly because nothing much has changed. I'll start up
> > again in a week or two giving updates as I'll be trying to get the
cockpit
> area finished up and into storage.
> > >
> > > Jeff
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
posts
> > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip>
away
> > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
You could put a $100 window air conditioner in your garage.
----- Original Message -----
From: "jeff" <boatbuilding@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 4:17 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Wyo Update
> A 3 year obsession, that's what!
>
> Weather man says it's 101 degrees now but feels like 96 degrees because of
> our 16% humidity.
>
> Give me a break! It's still hot.
>
> Jeff
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Spelling" <richard@...>
> To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 3:00 PM
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Wyo Update
>
>
> > Well, what kind of boat obsession do you call that?
> >
> > sheezzz!
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "jeff" <boatbuilding@...>
> > To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 12:33 PM
> > Subject: Re: [bolger] Wyo Update
> >
> >
> > > >
> > > > > Chill your epoxy, silly. Assuming YOU can stand the heet without
> > > starting
> > > > to smoke.
> > >
> > > By the way, the epoxy is just an excuse not to work in the heat. I can
> tell
> > > myself it's to hot to work with epoxy, ergo, to hot to work on the boat.
> > >
> > > Plenty of time to build no sense in punishing one self.
> > >
> > > Jeff
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
tinted, real light. I think it reduces, but I never been out with clear on.
real light so you can still see though them at night.
real light so you can still see though them at night.
----- Original Message -----
From: "jeff" <boatbuilding@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 4:45 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Wyo Update
> Question for you Rich. You have the tinted windows on your boat. Does that
> enhance the heat?
>
> I've heard it both ways. One is that tinted windows help reduce the direct
> sun heating to the interior, while others say it just absorbs the heat and
> radiates it to the interior.
>
> I'll be getting to that decision making process soon so anyone with
> experience with tinted windows can speak up here please.
>
> If tinted, real dark, light tint?
>
> Jeff
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "jeff" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
Basically I head for the AC and ponder the next day.
> Jeff
Air-conditioning? AIR-CONDITIONING!?!?!? We should all be so lucky :-)
When the temps get over 34C and the humidex factor makes it feel like
42C I find I can only work in 30 minutes spurts.After that I have to
crawl under a boat just to get some shade! I also go through close to
8 litres of water just to make up for the rivers worth I lose in
sweat.
I work with Industrial Formulators of Canada epoxy( the Cold-Cure
guys) and find that as long as the epoxy remains in the shade,I'm
alright. However,their laminating resin(for fiberglassing) is like
white ligthning when the surface is hot,I mix fast and furious then
pour it out of the pail while spreading quickly with an 8" plasters
spatula.
Now,if I had me an AC unit,then I'd have me a fridge too,and only
epoxy and beer would be stored in it to deal with the really hot
days.Then again,after a few beer in air-conditioned comfort,who needs
to work up a sweat building a boat :-) Cooler days will eventually
return!!!
Thanks for the up-date Jeff, good to know it is not another accident
that is holding you up but just some silly thing like air-
conditioning :-D
All the best!!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,who doesn't even have AC in his tool box on
wheels,aka,car.......................
Question for you Rich. You have the tinted windows on your boat. Does that
enhance the heat?
I've heard it both ways. One is that tinted windows help reduce the direct
sun heating to the interior, while others say it just absorbs the heat and
radiates it to the interior.
I'll be getting to that decision making process soon so anyone with
experience with tinted windows can speak up here please.
If tinted, real dark, light tint?
Jeff
enhance the heat?
I've heard it both ways. One is that tinted windows help reduce the direct
sun heating to the interior, while others say it just absorbs the heat and
radiates it to the interior.
I'll be getting to that decision making process soon so anyone with
experience with tinted windows can speak up here please.
If tinted, real dark, light tint?
Jeff
Been cooling off around here, was 105, with humidity making it feel like 115, last week...
Lots of wind, though! Felt like you had opened the oven in the kitchen.
So, OK doesn't have one big sailing season, as I used to think. It has four.
Fall is the best sailing, wind, and the water is still warm from the hot summer sun.
Winter sailing is ok, you can do ice breaking if the temp is in the fourties, but you need to stay out of the water. Spring is good
sailing, again, lots of wind, but the water can still be chilly.
Summer is ok on the cool days, but a lot of it is just too blasted hot!
Lots of wind, though! Felt like you had opened the oven in the kitchen.
So, OK doesn't have one big sailing season, as I used to think. It has four.
Fall is the best sailing, wind, and the water is still warm from the hot summer sun.
Winter sailing is ok, you can do ice breaking if the temp is in the fourties, but you need to stay out of the water. Spring is good
sailing, again, lots of wind, but the water can still be chilly.
Summer is ok on the cool days, but a lot of it is just too blasted hot!
----- Original Message -----
From: "jeff" <boatbuilding@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 4:17 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Wyo Update
> A 3 year obsession, that's what!
>
> Weather man says it's 101 degrees now but feels like 96 degrees because of
> our 16% humidity.
>
> Give me a break! It's still hot.
>
> Jeff
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Spelling" <richard@...>
> To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 3:00 PM
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Wyo Update
>
>
> > Well, what kind of boat obsession do you call that?
> >
> > sheezzz!
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "jeff" <boatbuilding@...>
> > To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 12:33 PM
> > Subject: Re: [bolger] Wyo Update
> >
> >
> > > >
> > > > > Chill your epoxy, silly. Assuming YOU can stand the heet without
> > > starting
> > > > to smoke.
> > >
> > > By the way, the epoxy is just an excuse not to work in the heat. I can
> tell
> > > myself it's to hot to work with epoxy, ergo, to hot to work on the boat.
> > >
> > > Plenty of time to build no sense in punishing one self.
> > >
> > > Jeff
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
A 3 year obsession, that's what!
Weather man says it's 101 degrees now but feels like 96 degrees because of
our 16% humidity.
Give me a break! It's still hot.
Jeff
Weather man says it's 101 degrees now but feels like 96 degrees because of
our 16% humidity.
Give me a break! It's still hot.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Spelling" <richard@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 3:00 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Wyo Update
> Well, what kind of boat obsession do you call that?
>
> sheezzz!
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jeff" <boatbuilding@...>
> To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 12:33 PM
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Wyo Update
>
>
> > >
> > > > Chill your epoxy, silly. Assuming YOU can stand the heet without
> > starting
> > > to smoke.
> >
> > By the way, the epoxy is just an excuse not to work in the heat. I can
tell
> > myself it's to hot to work with epoxy, ergo, to hot to work on the boat.
> >
> > Plenty of time to build no sense in punishing one self.
> >
> > Jeff
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Well, what kind of boat obsession do you call that?
sheezzz!
sheezzz!
----- Original Message -----
From: "jeff" <boatbuilding@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 12:33 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Wyo Update
> >
> > > Chill your epoxy, silly. Assuming YOU can stand the heet without
> starting
> > to smoke.
>
> By the way, the epoxy is just an excuse not to work in the heat. I can tell
> myself it's to hot to work with epoxy, ergo, to hot to work on the boat.
>
> Plenty of time to build no sense in punishing one self.
>
> Jeff
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>starting
> > Chill your epoxy, silly. Assuming YOU can stand the heet without
> to smoke.By the way, the epoxy is just an excuse not to work in the heat. I can tell
myself it's to hot to work with epoxy, ergo, to hot to work on the boat.
Plenty of time to build no sense in punishing one self.
Jeff
I actually tried chilling the epoxy but not the insulated cups. The biggest
problem I have found is not getting it mixed but when it hits the hot
plywood, it starts setting almost instantly. I mean that within 30 seconds
the brush starts getting sticky. I just plain weird how it responds.
You don't get drips much, it just stretches down off the wood like spider
webs. Kind a cool really.
Jeff
problem I have found is not getting it mixed but when it hits the hot
plywood, it starts setting almost instantly. I mean that within 30 seconds
the brush starts getting sticky. I just plain weird how it responds.
You don't get drips much, it just stretches down off the wood like spider
webs. Kind a cool really.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Spelling" <richard@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 10:43 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Wyo Update
> Chill your epoxy, silly. Assuming YOU can stand the heet without starting
to smoke.
>
> Have a spare fridge? Use foam cups, they'll keep your mix from heating up
to fast. Hopefully you will then have it all applied
> before it cooks off.
>
> And, it'll still be hard in 6 hours.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jeff" <boatbuilding@...>
> To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 11:17 AM
> Subject: [bolger] Wyo Update
>
>
> > I've had a fair number of emails asking about my progress on the Wyoming
so I figured I'd put out a general message to the group.
> >
> > I'm launching the Trilars this weekend and I've been trying to work on
the Wyoming for the last month but the climate is hindering
> much progress. I know other places are hot but we've been averaging just
under 100 degrees every day and almost a week of 100 plus
> since June 15th. 102 today so it's fair to say working with epoxy is
almost not an option. Besides, when your garage faces west
> into the sun, evenings have gotten over 105 degrees inside the garage.
Basically I head for the AC and ponder the next day.
> >
> > I guess I'll have to take some lessons from you folks in the Southwest
on how to handle epoxy in this heat. It starts heating and
> smoking in just a couple minutes and that's with the "Very Slow" hardener.
Early mornings on the weekends is about my only time to
> epoxy. The good thing is that it sets hard enough for sanding in 6 hours!
> >
> > I've not posted anything on my website partly because of being lazy and
partly because nothing much has changed. I'll start up
> again in a week or two giving updates as I'll be trying to get the cockpit
area finished up and into storage.
> >
> > Jeff
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Chill your epoxy, silly. Assuming YOU can stand the heet without starting to smoke.
Have a spare fridge? Use foam cups, they'll keep your mix from heating up to fast. Hopefully you will then have it all applied
before it cooks off.
And, it'll still be hard in 6 hours.
Have a spare fridge? Use foam cups, they'll keep your mix from heating up to fast. Hopefully you will then have it all applied
before it cooks off.
And, it'll still be hard in 6 hours.
----- Original Message -----
From: "jeff" <boatbuilding@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 11:17 AM
Subject: [bolger] Wyo Update
> I've had a fair number of emails asking about my progress on the Wyoming so I figured I'd put out a general message to the group.
>
> I'm launching the Trilars this weekend and I've been trying to work on the Wyoming for the last month but the climate is hindering
much progress. I know other places are hot but we've been averaging just under 100 degrees every day and almost a week of 100 plus
since June 15th. 102 today so it's fair to say working with epoxy is almost not an option. Besides, when your garage faces west
into the sun, evenings have gotten over 105 degrees inside the garage. Basically I head for the AC and ponder the next day.
>
> I guess I'll have to take some lessons from you folks in the Southwest on how to handle epoxy in this heat. It starts heating and
smoking in just a couple minutes and that's with the "Very Slow" hardener. Early mornings on the weekends is about my only time to
epoxy. The good thing is that it sets hard enough for sanding in 6 hours!
>
> I've not posted anything on my website partly because of being lazy and partly because nothing much has changed. I'll start up
again in a week or two giving updates as I'll be trying to get the cockpit area finished up and into storage.
>
> Jeff
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
I've had a fair number of emails asking about my progress on the Wyoming so I figured I'd put out a general message to the group.
I'm launching the Trilars this weekend and I've been trying to work on the Wyoming for the last month but the climate is hindering much progress. I know other places are hot but we've been averaging just under 100 degrees every day and almost a week of 100 plus since June 15th. 102 today so it's fair to say working with epoxy is almost not an option. Besides, when your garage faces west into the sun, evenings have gotten over 105 degrees inside the garage. Basically I head for the AC and ponder the next day.
I guess I'll have to take some lessons from you folks in the Southwest on how to handle epoxy in this heat. It starts heating and smoking in just a couple minutes and that's with the "Very Slow" hardener. Early mornings on the weekends is about my only time to epoxy. The good thing is that it sets hard enough for sanding in 6 hours!
I've not posted anything on my website partly because of being lazy and partly because nothing much has changed. I'll start up again in a week or two giving updates as I'll be trying to get the cockpit area finished up and into storage.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I'm launching the Trilars this weekend and I've been trying to work on the Wyoming for the last month but the climate is hindering much progress. I know other places are hot but we've been averaging just under 100 degrees every day and almost a week of 100 plus since June 15th. 102 today so it's fair to say working with epoxy is almost not an option. Besides, when your garage faces west into the sun, evenings have gotten over 105 degrees inside the garage. Basically I head for the AC and ponder the next day.
I guess I'll have to take some lessons from you folks in the Southwest on how to handle epoxy in this heat. It starts heating and smoking in just a couple minutes and that's with the "Very Slow" hardener. Early mornings on the weekends is about my only time to epoxy. The good thing is that it sets hard enough for sanding in 6 hours!
I've not posted anything on my website partly because of being lazy and partly because nothing much has changed. I'll start up again in a week or two giving updates as I'll be trying to get the cockpit area finished up and into storage.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I got the cockpit floor installed and 2/3 of seats roughed in this last week and a waiting for the fuel tanks to show up so I can get them installed and finish off the seats. A bulkhead between the seats and splash well needs to be installed to finish off the wrap around seats but I hope to be done with the seating area this next weekend. Boy, sometimes it's easy to get overwhelmed at the size of this project. Originally we though we might like to keep the entire cockpit open like the original version of the Wyo, but finally went with the Aft Cabin version for the storage, seats, and safety of reducing the size of the cockpit area prone to swamping. These seats are huge? 24 inches wide running a total of 28 feet! Let alone they open up to a storage area 28 inches deep. Copious amounts of screws, glue, and cedar nailers. Added a fair amount to the project but will be worth it in the end. My neighbors have now dubbed it the "Party Barge".
Getting very close to the time when I'll have to make a decision to go with the Wyoming/Sneakeasy trademark slipper stern at keep it squared off. Maybe put a light reverse curve (barrel back?) look to it like the Mark V39.
Jeff
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Getting very close to the time when I'll have to make a decision to go with the Wyoming/Sneakeasy trademark slipper stern at keep it squared off. Maybe put a light reverse curve (barrel back?) look to it like the Mark V39.
Jeff
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> It is more than a house, it's a home.Yes, we see that way too. A home with large patio!
Jeff
There a few photo's now on Bolger2 and none on Bolger3 so you should
have enough room to post all of the very important(to us)pictures. It
is more than a house, it's a home.
John
have enough room to post all of the very important(to us)pictures. It
is more than a house, it's a home.
John
--- In bolger@y..., <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> > This sounds more like building a house than a boat:-)
>
> Yes it is like building a cabin at the lake in many ways. The
> side panels and hull bottom where glassed laying flat on saw
> horses or on the garage floor. Very nice way to do it.
>
> I'll have a 1" radius on the chine so finishing will not be too
> bad at that, but some of the chine in the front is visible so
> I'll be sure to have a decent finish there for sure.
>
> I bought a "flapper" sanding wheel for my angle grinder and
> that should to the trick in grinding down the tape edges, I
> hope.
>
> I figured I'd save the photos section from filling up with
> photos of the Wyo. The site I have will have ton's of photos
> but if the group would like, I can post a select few to the
> photos section on this site as I progress through the building
> of the Wyoming.
>
> www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
>
> Verify you are typing it right. It should work, if not let me
> know.
>
> Jeff
> This sounds more like building a house than a boat:-)Yes it is like building a cabin at the lake in many ways. The
side panels and hull bottom where glassed laying flat on saw
horses or on the garage floor. Very nice way to do it.
I'll have a 1" radius on the chine so finishing will not be too
bad at that, but some of the chine in the front is visible so
I'll be sure to have a decent finish there for sure.
I bought a "flapper" sanding wheel for my angle grinder and
that should to the trick in grinding down the tape edges, I
hope.
I figured I'd save the photos section from filling up with
photos of the Wyo. The site I have will have ton's of photos
but if the group would like, I can post a select few to the
photos section on this site as I progress through the building
of the Wyoming.
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
Verify you are typing it right. It should work, if not let me
know.
Jeff
Hey Jeff, I finally got to the website! Nels--- In
bolger@y..., "recree8" <arvent@h...> wrote:
bolger@y..., "recree8" <arvent@h...> wrote:
> Thanks Jeff,
>
> This sounds more like building a house than a boat:-)
Thanks Jeff,
This sounds more like building a house than a boat:-) Your
description was very informative. Were all the outer panels glassed
before they were installed? (I'm assuming the bottom was glassed on
the flat and then flipped over.) So that would mean there is really
no requirement to work under the boat at all except to install the
keel strip if you want one. Cool!
Are you planning a one inch radius on the chimes? If so, even that
will not be too difficult a job, just loooong. And by that time the
boat is about 90% finished anyway! The chimes will be emersed from
view, so just use several layers of glass each succeeding layer wider
than the previous?
Are you planning to post any photos to Bolger? For some reason I
cannot get to your website.
Nels
This sounds more like building a house than a boat:-) Your
description was very informative. Were all the outer panels glassed
before they were installed? (I'm assuming the bottom was glassed on
the flat and then flipped over.) So that would mean there is really
no requirement to work under the boat at all except to install the
keel strip if you want one. Cool!
Are you planning a one inch radius on the chimes? If so, even that
will not be too difficult a job, just loooong. And by that time the
boat is about 90% finished anyway! The chimes will be emersed from
view, so just use several layers of glass each succeeding layer wider
than the previous?
Are you planning to post any photos to Bolger? For some reason I
cannot get to your website.
Nels
--- In bolger@y..., "jeff" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
bottoms of all
> bulkheads, a 4x4 cedar post is used on one side only. This is the
only down
> side to the Wyoming's interior, you will have to step over these in
the
> hallways as they are continuous the full width.
>
> For the Intercoastals, I glue and nailed cedar strips down first.
Then
> glued the plywood to it. This let's me nail easier and guarrantees
a good
> fit to the bottom profile.
>
> Of course I do have 100 feet of chine edges to round and tape up
and I'm not
> looking forward to the finish work on those.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Jeff
>nailer stripsYes they are commonly known as 2x2s. I'm using western red cedar deck
railing stock from a local fence and deck company. They are sanded smooth
and have very few knots and seem to be good quality.
As far as using them, they are everywhere. Bulkhead framing included. Most
bulkheads have them on both sides too. When building the bulkheads, I would
put on the glue and nail from the opposite side using ring shank boat nails.
When the glue was set, I'd flip it over and use longer nails from the same
side. At least the nails are hidden on one side. For the bottoms of all
bulkheads, a 4x4 cedar post is used on one side only. This is the only down
side to the Wyoming's interior, you will have to step over these in the
hallways as they are continuous the full width.
For attaching the side panels, the hull bottom is laminated up and cut to
shape. Bulkheads are mounted then the cedar nailing strips are glued and
nailed along the edge between the bulkheads. The side panels are glued and
nail to the side flush along the bottom. This gives a gluing surface of 3
inches to the side panel. ( 1 1/2" bottom thickness and 1 1/2" of cedar
nailer. I pre-soaked the 1 1/2" plywood bottom edge with epoxy to rejection
so I could get a good joint. It's amazing how much end grain plywood can
soak up.
For the Intercoastals, I glue and nailed cedar strips down first. Then
glued the plywood to it. This let's me nail easier and guarrantees a good
fit to the bottom profile.
Of course I do have 100 feet of chine edges to round and tape up and I'm not
looking forward to the finish work on those.
Hope this helps.
Jeff
Hi Jeff,
I am really interested in your comments regarding 1 2/2 inch cedar
nailers. However I can't seem to get access to the photos. Would it
be possible to explain briefly your building sequence? These nailer
strips are what are nominally referred to as 2X2's right? So do you
glue the strips to the panel and clamp them until they set and then
flip the panel and nail it with ring nails from the other side? Then
if you are going to install another panel at right angeles to the
first, how do accomplish that? Also do you use all 2X2's even for the
bulckhead framing and chine logs etc?
I agree that this sounds preferrable to stitch and glue in larger
square hulls since there is really no bevelling involved. The taped
seams on the outside provide the strength you need if the structure
itself is soundly engineered.
I have seen 18'X1/2" (and 3/4 " bottoms) fir plywood fishing boats
used on Lake Winnipeg that are built that way and then just finished
with a couple coats of exterior porch paint. No other glass.
Thanks, Nels
I am really interested in your comments regarding 1 2/2 inch cedar
nailers. However I can't seem to get access to the photos. Would it
be possible to explain briefly your building sequence? These nailer
strips are what are nominally referred to as 2X2's right? So do you
glue the strips to the panel and clamp them until they set and then
flip the panel and nail it with ring nails from the other side? Then
if you are going to install another panel at right angeles to the
first, how do accomplish that? Also do you use all 2X2's even for the
bulckhead framing and chine logs etc?
I agree that this sounds preferrable to stitch and glue in larger
square hulls since there is really no bevelling involved. The taped
seams on the outside provide the strength you need if the structure
itself is soundly engineered.
I have seen 18'X1/2" (and 3/4 " bottoms) fir plywood fishing boats
used on Lake Winnipeg that are built that way and then just finished
with a couple coats of exterior porch paint. No other glass.
Thanks, Nels
--- In bolger@y..., "jeff" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> I am amazed at how fast it builds. The real key is the 1 1/2 inch
cedar
> nailers on all the joints instead of tape/epoxy. A whole lot less
sanding
> and messing around on you hands and knees with fillets and tape.
Of course
> on a design like the Wyo they don't show much after it's
assembled. They
> are mostly buried in storage spaces. It's even easier than
building a
> Tennessee.
>
> Also, since it's a "Square" boat, there is no finessing of stitch
and glue
> seams.
>
> Square may not appeal to a lot of people but from a building stand
point, it
> way cool!
>
> Jeff
I am amazed at how fast it builds. The real key is the 1 1/2 inch cedar
nailers on all the joints instead of tape/epoxy. A whole lot less sanding
and messing around on you hands and knees with fillets and tape. Of course
on a design like the Wyo they don't show much after it's assembled. They
are mostly buried in storage spaces. It's even easier than building a
Tennessee.
Also, since it's a "Square" boat, there is no finessing of stitch and glue
seams.
Square may not appeal to a lot of people but from a building stand point, it
way cool!
Jeff
nailers on all the joints instead of tape/epoxy. A whole lot less sanding
and messing around on you hands and knees with fillets and tape. Of course
on a design like the Wyo they don't show much after it's assembled. They
are mostly buried in storage spaces. It's even easier than building a
Tennessee.
Also, since it's a "Square" boat, there is no finessing of stitch and glue
seams.
Square may not appeal to a lot of people but from a building stand point, it
way cool!
Jeff
--- In bolger@y..., "jeff" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
Just as I imagined, Wyoming is big, but more or
less simple. And fast to build, if you can keep
your focus.
> the Wyo photos.I can hardly describe how jealous I feel :)
Just as I imagined, Wyoming is big, but more or
less simple. And fast to build, if you can keep
your focus.
I got a lot done on the Wyo last week. I updated my site at
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor with a few photos.
Jeff
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor with a few photos.
Jeff
Chuck,
I believe you sent be a diagram of your windows. I'll look at it again.
That is an idea. I had thought of having a sliding screen on the inside. One that could be open or closed depending on need. This would allow the windows to fit closer for better looks and no visual of screen material from the outside when closed. Also, screens as big as those on the Wyo can take a beating in a blow. Having them protected on the inside would make them last longer.
As far as having one half of the window mounted ridged, that is by recommendation and safety. Actually, it's recommended that for sliding windows, it would be better to have the center section solidly mounted while the 1/4 width ends slid open. It would reduce the water pressure on the closed slides if it where to get knocked down or a breaking wave. Especially on the parrellagram windows I would like to have. For the settees, it would allow each seat to have an opening window.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I believe you sent be a diagram of your windows. I'll look at it again.
That is an idea. I had thought of having a sliding screen on the inside. One that could be open or closed depending on need. This would allow the windows to fit closer for better looks and no visual of screen material from the outside when closed. Also, screens as big as those on the Wyo can take a beating in a blow. Having them protected on the inside would make them last longer.
As far as having one half of the window mounted ridged, that is by recommendation and safety. Actually, it's recommended that for sliding windows, it would be better to have the center section solidly mounted while the 1/4 width ends slid open. It would reduce the water pressure on the closed slides if it where to get knocked down or a breaking wave. Especially on the parrellagram windows I would like to have. For the settees, it would allow each seat to have an opening window.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I had thought of this but the front cockpit in the Wyo is too small. I would have put the 10HP spare motor up there instead at the stern. The cockpit starts at about 42 inches and narrows to about 6".
Jeff
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: brucehallman
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 9:08 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Wyo Update
--- In bolger@y..., "David Romasco" <dromasco@g...> wrote:
> Seems to me that a simpler approach might suffice.
> Build a square well
> in the forward cockpit with a removable fairing insert (nothing
> elaborate, please). I've seen just the thruster part (motor/prop)
The first outboard motor based "bow thruster" which I have seen was
from Bolger design #630 "Illinois"
http://www.hallman.org/bolger/Illinois/Illinois1.gif
It faces backwards, lowers into the water with a cable winch operated
from the pilot house. The hole is covered by a hinged plate, that
the 9.9 hp motor pushes out of the way when lowered.
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Jeff:
Here is a window idea for you to chew on. On my Tennessee, I made both window panes slide, rather than have one fixed. There was bug screening on one side, so you could either open that side for bug resistance, or open the other side for better ventilation. You would be surprised how screening suppresses air flow. It is especially noticeable in the cabin of a boat.
Chuck
Here is a window idea for you to chew on. On my Tennessee, I made both window panes slide, rather than have one fixed. There was bug screening on one side, so you could either open that side for bug resistance, or open the other side for better ventilation. You would be surprised how screening suppresses air flow. It is especially noticeable in the cabin of a boat.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Blunck
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 10:32 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Wyo Update
Essentially yes. The cut outs will be parallelograms with each corner well rounded. The vertical edges will be angled at 22 1/2 degrees. The glass panels will be rectangular and mounted from behind. From the outside, they'll have the look I'm going for but from a construction standpoint inside, I'll be building the frames and slides for 90 degree corners.
I believe all windows will be identical in size though my concept drawing lacks true scale so it isn't obvious. Each opening will have a maximum length of about 60 inches so a two 28" x 32" panels will fit each opening. One fixed solid, the other will slide. I'll work on a "negative" panel for the windows. Once I have what I want, I can trace around the "negative" and cut out the openings then round the edges over with my router.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: sneakeasy2000
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 6:29 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Wyo Update
Jeff,
I'm a little thick headed I guess, but could you please elaborate on
the windows. Because of the slant for the more modern look are you
planning to cut a paralellagram(sp) shape into the side panels and
then rather than cutting the plexi the same shape just installing the
glass rectangular covering the hole??
Steve Bosquette
--- In bolger@y..., "jhbjap" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> For those who are interested, I got a fax back from Phil Bolger
> regarding a few questions I sent. It only took two hours to get a
> response by fax.
>
> 1. He approves of the idea for cutting the window shapes in the
side
> panels and using rectangular glass panes (plexiglass).
>
> 2. If I installed a 3"x3" ( two 2x4 laminates) shoe most of the
> length of the bottom, terminating on a bulkhead for strength, I
could
> do without the centerboard. Of course I'd go from 6" to 9" in
> draft. Plus the trolling motor bow thruster would probably be
needed
> for docking in currents and wind.
>
> 3. A quote: "Western red cedar should be perfectly good for all
> structural parts. Something harder for the shoe."
>
> He recommended building a model to check out the look. It's very
> cold outside now, might be just the thing to keep me busy until
> spring.
>
> Jeff
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- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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Sorry Phil, John, Bruce, and Jeff; no going back to cut and
paste the quotes tonight. If the idea fits, you have it!
http://www.qis.net/~jmgraham/resrun.htm
At 48v it's 4 hp and can be remote controlled.
Don't all the MK motors turn round and round in their own
mount like mine? A troller in a well only has to tilt up and
down w/clearance for the harness.
The largest MK motor in the catalog is 130 pound thrust,
just about exactly 2 hp, but it's a twin. Otherwise 101
pounds thrust, or 1.7 hp, is what's available.
A different propeller for these motors for whatever purpose
is not easy to find. While metal ones on the same patterns
are available, the motors are so tightly engineered there's
not much point in changing it.
It has the same lever, so Why does the Illinois thruster
look more powerful facing aft? Is it push the weight, not
pull it?
Mark
paste the quotes tonight. If the idea fits, you have it!
>Kort nozzles for outboardsThe Reservoir Runner
http://www.qis.net/~jmgraham/resrun.htm
At 48v it's 4 hp and can be remote controlled.
Don't all the MK motors turn round and round in their own
mount like mine? A troller in a well only has to tilt up and
down w/clearance for the harness.
The largest MK motor in the catalog is 130 pound thrust,
just about exactly 2 hp, but it's a twin. Otherwise 101
pounds thrust, or 1.7 hp, is what's available.
A different propeller for these motors for whatever purpose
is not easy to find. While metal ones on the same patterns
are available, the motors are so tightly engineered there's
not much point in changing it.
It has the same lever, so Why does the Illinois thruster
look more powerful facing aft? Is it push the weight, not
pull it?
Mark
All this discussion on electric and gas outboards for bow thrusters has got
me thinking.
First, with regard to the lack of meaningful reverse thrust on the trolling
motors, you could rig up a method to rotate the trolling motor from hard
port to hard starboard. I'm thinking of mounting the trolling motor shaft
through a semicircle of plywood. A lever or a similar semicircle in the
cockpit to rotate the trolling motor. Being able to use the trolling
motor's thrust in directions other than hard to port or hard to starboard.
This could help in docking.
Second, there used to be a company that made Kort nozzles for outboards.
Kort nozzles are hoops (the nozzle) that go around the propeller. They use
special propellers that tightly fit the nozzle. Kort nozzles significantly
increase the thrust of an engine. If you are going to use an outboard for a
bow thruster one of these Kort nozzles would be well worth looking into.
Does anyone remember the name of the company that built the Kort nozzles
for outboards and are they still around? I haven't seen an ad in a while.
Third, Yamaha makes high thrust outboards. They have bigger propellers and
lower gearing than the other guys (and Yamaha's non-high thrust models.)
The high thrust models are geared toward sailboat auxiliaries.
Fourth, Bolger, in his article on the electric launch Lilly, talked a lot
about which trolling motor they chose and why. As I recall the why was all
about thrust. I don't recall which motor they used.
me thinking.
First, with regard to the lack of meaningful reverse thrust on the trolling
motors, you could rig up a method to rotate the trolling motor from hard
port to hard starboard. I'm thinking of mounting the trolling motor shaft
through a semicircle of plywood. A lever or a similar semicircle in the
cockpit to rotate the trolling motor. Being able to use the trolling
motor's thrust in directions other than hard to port or hard to starboard.
This could help in docking.
Second, there used to be a company that made Kort nozzles for outboards.
Kort nozzles are hoops (the nozzle) that go around the propeller. They use
special propellers that tightly fit the nozzle. Kort nozzles significantly
increase the thrust of an engine. If you are going to use an outboard for a
bow thruster one of these Kort nozzles would be well worth looking into.
Does anyone remember the name of the company that built the Kort nozzles
for outboards and are they still around? I haven't seen an ad in a while.
Third, Yamaha makes high thrust outboards. They have bigger propellers and
lower gearing than the other guys (and Yamaha's non-high thrust models.)
The high thrust models are geared toward sailboat auxiliaries.
Fourth, Bolger, in his article on the electric launch Lilly, talked a lot
about which trolling motor they chose and why. As I recall the why was all
about thrust. I don't recall which motor they used.
--- In bolger@y..., "David Romasco" <dromasco@g...> wrote:
from Bolger design #630 "Illinois"
http://www.hallman.org/bolger/Illinois/Illinois1.gif
It faces backwards, lowers into the water with a cable winch operated
from the pilot house. The hole is covered by a hinged plate, that
the 9.9 hp motor pushes out of the way when lowered.
> Seems to me that a simpler approach might suffice.The first outboard motor based "bow thruster" which I have seen was
> Build a square well
> in the forward cockpit with a removable fairing insert (nothing
> elaborate, please). I've seen just the thruster part (motor/prop)
from Bolger design #630 "Illinois"
http://www.hallman.org/bolger/Illinois/Illinois1.gif
It faces backwards, lowers into the water with a cable winch operated
from the pilot house. The hole is covered by a hinged plate, that
the 9.9 hp motor pushes out of the way when lowered.
One warning about trolling motors, the thrust in reverse is pretty meager.
Last year I tried putting on the brakes when a motorboat did something
unexpected near the Port Townsend launch ramp (fortunately the first time
I'd ever needed the emergency brakes while using a trolling motor) and not
much happened at all! :o( The resulting collison injured only my pride, but
killed the last bit of confidence I might have had in the motor's reversing
power. I expect the weedless prop is to blame. I don't think a trolling
motor permanently oriented athwartship would work well as a bow thruster
unless something was done about the propeller.
Last year I tried putting on the brakes when a motorboat did something
unexpected near the Port Townsend launch ramp (fortunately the first time
I'd ever needed the emergency brakes while using a trolling motor) and not
much happened at all! :o( The resulting collison injured only my pride, but
killed the last bit of confidence I might have had in the motor's reversing
power. I expect the weedless prop is to blame. I don't think a trolling
motor permanently oriented athwartship would work well as a bow thruster
unless something was done about the propeller.
On Mon, 28 Jan 2002 14:40:20 -0500, David Romasco wrote:
> Seems to me that a simpler approach might suffice. Build a square well
> in the forward cockpit with a removable fairing insert (nothing
> ,,,
> unit as a piggyback trolling drive. Rig this so the thrust axis is
> across the beam...
--
John <jkohnen@...>
http://www.boat-links.com/
The problem with people who have no vices is that generally you can be
pretty sure they're going to have some pretty annoying virtues.
<Elizabeth Taylor>
Looks like that will work! Lift out the hull bottom, have the trolling motor mounted on a front hinged plate that could drop down into place. It has a 18' control cord which is a great plenty for the Wyo and I assume it has the standard 3 position speed control with reverse. Price is not all that bad for the high thrust model at $469.00.
Yet another issue resolved.
Thanks all!
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Yet another issue resolved.
Thanks all!
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Jeff Blunck wrote:
http://www.johnsonoutdoors.com/motors/minnkota/em54.html
>see
> Someone mentioned an electric trolling motor that attached
> to the outboard motor, can someone fill me in on this
> type? Pictures on the net?
>
http://www.johnsonoutdoors.com/motors/minnkota/em54.html
Minn Kota makes an engine mounted trolling motor. You can see it at
Calela's at:
http://www.cabelas.com/
Ralph
Calela's at:
http://www.cabelas.com/
Ralph
--- In bolger@y..., "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> Someone mentioned an electric trolling motor that attached to the
outboard motor, can someone fill me in on this type? Pictures on the
net?
>
> Jeff
Actually, the front cockpit is built about 10" about the waterline. It would be simple enough to box in between the intercoastals to make the well. Cut out the hull bottom to use as the plug. Biggest issue would be securing it well enough to take some pounding droping off wave tops but I have some ideas for that too. If I installed a grate above, it could double as the cockpit drain.
Someone mentioned an electric trolling motor that attached to the outboard motor, can someone fill me in on this type? Pictures on the net?
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Someone mentioned an electric trolling motor that attached to the outboard motor, can someone fill me in on this type? Pictures on the net?
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi Jeff
I like Dave's idea of the well. It wouldn't need to be very high in
the bottom of the bow because there is no draft there. The controls
at the helm are a good idea. I am thinking of a trolling motor for
my Sneakeasy to use on a small dinghy for those times when I want to
anchor out and have a way ashore. Maybe yours could double as a
kicker for you dinghy!
Steve Bosquette
I like Dave's idea of the well. It wouldn't need to be very high in
the bottom of the bow because there is no draft there. The controls
at the helm are a good idea. I am thinking of a trolling motor for
my Sneakeasy to use on a small dinghy for those times when I want to
anchor out and have a way ashore. Maybe yours could double as a
kicker for you dinghy!
Steve Bosquette
--- In bolger@y..., "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> Maybe the well idea has more merit than I had thought. It would be
simple enough to build. Open it up, slip the trolling motor down
prior to docking that way it wouldn't matter which side you ended up
docking up against. With a forward and reverse control at the helm,
the line handler would be free to be anywhere. SInce there is not
enough draft to have a permanent bow thruster install, the trolling
motor is the best option.
>
> Practice will be necessary before setting off. And I agree, why is
it you have your best docking and maneuvering when no one is around
to be impressed?
>
> Jeff
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Maybe the well idea has more merit than I had thought. It would be simple enough to build. Open it up, slip the trolling motor down prior to docking that way it wouldn't matter which side you ended up docking up against. With a forward and reverse control at the helm, the line handler would be free to be anywhere. SInce there is not enough draft to have a permanent bow thruster install, the trolling motor is the best option.
Practice will be necessary before setting off. And I agree, why is it you have your best docking and maneuvering when no one is around to be impressed?
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Practice will be necessary before setting off. And I agree, why is it you have your best docking and maneuvering when no one is around to be impressed?
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Seems to me that a simpler approach might suffice. Build a square well
in the forward cockpit with a removable fairing insert (nothing
elaborate, please). I've seen just the thruster part (motor/prop) from
a trolling motor that is designed to be clamped on an outdrive lower
unit as a piggyback trolling drive. Rig this so the thrust axis is
across the beam on a frame that drops into the well. I've seen bow
thrusters that temporarily extend out from the hull with the fairing
plate as part of the drive, but again that's a little overcooked for the
simple life. This way you've got a port/stbd thruster that can be left
in place throughout docking/undocking, has simple construction and
doesn't excite unhealthy speculation among onlookers.... in fact, if all
goes well we'd look better than we probably deserve...
David Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: Orr, Jamie [mailto:jorr@...]
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 2:04 PM
To: 'bolger@yahoogroups.com'
Subject: RE: [bolger] Re: Wyo Update
Hi
Can't resist poking my nose in. My worst boat handling always takes
place
near the dock, when I'm using the outboard. A light boat and a
cross-wind
can make things amusing for the spectators, and that's with only 20 feet
of
length.
I tend to single hand quite often, so I wonder if you really want to
have a
bow thruster that requires someone at the bow -- and Wyoming seems long
enough that running back and forth might be awkward in a crowded
channel,
perhaps with a cross-wind. Seems that when you really need a bow
thruster
is not the time to be leaving the helm, even away from the dock. Also,
if
you rely on a second person, coordinating your actions might be a
problem,
particularly if that person also has to tie up. We've all heard a
skipper
screaming at his crew up forward, who can't hear him or else can't
understand what he wants.
Altogether, Wyoming strikes me as a potentially awkward beast to
maneouver,
with her length and high sides -- not mention shallow draft (no grip on
the
water) and only outboard power. I would want a powerful bow thruster
that
could be left in place when necessary, and definitely one that would
work in
both directions without having to be moved to the other side of the
boat.
Control would have to be from the helm. If I were building her, I would
plan for coming alongside in a narrow channel, with lots of other boats
passing both ways, in a strong wind and heavy rain. Then I might throw
in
some other boats tied alongside, leaving only barely enough dock.
Probably the only sure plan is never dock when there's a crowd watching.
That's guaranteed to be when everything goes wrong! When no one's
around to
see, you'll make a perfect job of it every time.
Good luck, it sounds like your headed for a real cruise-of-a-lifetime.
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Blunck [mailto:boatbuilding@...]
Sent: January 28, 2002 7:38 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Wyo Update
This is about what I had in mind. Making a mount that would wedge into
place on either side. I just figured on having an on/off and
forward/reverse switches at the helm. The motor would be fixed as a
side
thruster. If needed one could go forward and hand steer on real tricky
maneuvers. On a long boat such as the Wyo I envision docking more often
by
placing the nose against a pier and having a crew tie up loosely, then
swing
in the stern. On berthing, nose first is more practical.
Jeff
in the forward cockpit with a removable fairing insert (nothing
elaborate, please). I've seen just the thruster part (motor/prop) from
a trolling motor that is designed to be clamped on an outdrive lower
unit as a piggyback trolling drive. Rig this so the thrust axis is
across the beam on a frame that drops into the well. I've seen bow
thrusters that temporarily extend out from the hull with the fairing
plate as part of the drive, but again that's a little overcooked for the
simple life. This way you've got a port/stbd thruster that can be left
in place throughout docking/undocking, has simple construction and
doesn't excite unhealthy speculation among onlookers.... in fact, if all
goes well we'd look better than we probably deserve...
David Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: Orr, Jamie [mailto:jorr@...]
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 2:04 PM
To: 'bolger@yahoogroups.com'
Subject: RE: [bolger] Re: Wyo Update
Hi
Can't resist poking my nose in. My worst boat handling always takes
place
near the dock, when I'm using the outboard. A light boat and a
cross-wind
can make things amusing for the spectators, and that's with only 20 feet
of
length.
I tend to single hand quite often, so I wonder if you really want to
have a
bow thruster that requires someone at the bow -- and Wyoming seems long
enough that running back and forth might be awkward in a crowded
channel,
perhaps with a cross-wind. Seems that when you really need a bow
thruster
is not the time to be leaving the helm, even away from the dock. Also,
if
you rely on a second person, coordinating your actions might be a
problem,
particularly if that person also has to tie up. We've all heard a
skipper
screaming at his crew up forward, who can't hear him or else can't
understand what he wants.
Altogether, Wyoming strikes me as a potentially awkward beast to
maneouver,
with her length and high sides -- not mention shallow draft (no grip on
the
water) and only outboard power. I would want a powerful bow thruster
that
could be left in place when necessary, and definitely one that would
work in
both directions without having to be moved to the other side of the
boat.
Control would have to be from the helm. If I were building her, I would
plan for coming alongside in a narrow channel, with lots of other boats
passing both ways, in a strong wind and heavy rain. Then I might throw
in
some other boats tied alongside, leaving only barely enough dock.
Probably the only sure plan is never dock when there's a crowd watching.
That's guaranteed to be when everything goes wrong! When no one's
around to
see, you'll make a perfect job of it every time.
Good luck, it sounds like your headed for a real cruise-of-a-lifetime.
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Blunck [mailto:boatbuilding@...]
Sent: January 28, 2002 7:38 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Wyo Update
This is about what I had in mind. Making a mount that would wedge into
place on either side. I just figured on having an on/off and
forward/reverse switches at the helm. The motor would be fixed as a
side
thruster. If needed one could go forward and hand steer on real tricky
maneuvers. On a long boat such as the Wyo I envision docking more often
by
placing the nose against a pier and having a crew tie up loosely, then
swing
in the stern. On berthing, nose first is more practical.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: Harry W. James
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2002 4:07 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Wyo Update
On my Wyoming concept, I was going to mount the trolling motor to a
tapered board with a mount on either side of the bow about 5-10 feet
back that it would slide into. The motor would be stored in a box up
forward with all the wires run to it permanently. When coming up to a
dock the motor would be dropped into the mount away from the dock.
There
would be a spring loaded to the center left, right control switch at
the
helm station. The switch would rotate through 180 degrees so as not to
confuse the helmsman when you move the motor from one side to the
other.
HJ
Jeff Blunck wrote:
>
> No wood yet, still getting prices. Besides it's to cold for epoxy
to
set yet.
>
> Phil Bolger says to make a well in the front cockpit but I think
I'll
try to mount a trolling motor mount that I can swing over the side and
have
the wife run by hand if need be. You could rig it to be rigged to run
at 90
degrees to the hull and have the on/off switch by the steering wheel in
side. That would work as well. Then all could be stored away when not
in
use. I'll have a battery up front anyway for the windlass I have for
anchor
chain.
>
> Jeff
>
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Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi
Can't resist poking my nose in. My worst boat handling always takes place
near the dock, when I'm using the outboard. A light boat and a cross-wind
can make things amusing for the spectators, and that's with only 20 feet of
length.
I tend to single hand quite often, so I wonder if you really want to have a
bow thruster that requires someone at the bow -- and Wyoming seems long
enough that running back and forth might be awkward in a crowded channel,
perhaps with a cross-wind. Seems that when you really need a bow thruster
is not the time to be leaving the helm, even away from the dock. Also, if
you rely on a second person, coordinating your actions might be a problem,
particularly if that person also has to tie up. We've all heard a skipper
screaming at his crew up forward, who can't hear him or else can't
understand what he wants.
Altogether, Wyoming strikes me as a potentially awkward beast to maneouver,
with her length and high sides -- not mention shallow draft (no grip on the
water) and only outboard power. I would want a powerful bow thruster that
could be left in place when necessary, and definitely one that would work in
both directions without having to be moved to the other side of the boat.
Control would have to be from the helm. If I were building her, I would
plan for coming alongside in a narrow channel, with lots of other boats
passing both ways, in a strong wind and heavy rain. Then I might throw in
some other boats tied alongside, leaving only barely enough dock.
Probably the only sure plan is never dock when there's a crowd watching.
That's guaranteed to be when everything goes wrong! When no one's around to
see, you'll make a perfect job of it every time.
Good luck, it sounds like your headed for a real cruise-of-a-lifetime.
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Blunck [mailto:boatbuilding@...]
Sent: January 28, 2002 7:38 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Wyo Update
This is about what I had in mind. Making a mount that would wedge into
place on either side. I just figured on having an on/off and
forward/reverse switches at the helm. The motor would be fixed as a side
thruster. If needed one could go forward and hand steer on real tricky
maneuvers. On a long boat such as the Wyo I envision docking more often by
placing the nose against a pier and having a crew tie up loosely, then swing
in the stern. On berthing, nose first is more practical.
Jeff
Can't resist poking my nose in. My worst boat handling always takes place
near the dock, when I'm using the outboard. A light boat and a cross-wind
can make things amusing for the spectators, and that's with only 20 feet of
length.
I tend to single hand quite often, so I wonder if you really want to have a
bow thruster that requires someone at the bow -- and Wyoming seems long
enough that running back and forth might be awkward in a crowded channel,
perhaps with a cross-wind. Seems that when you really need a bow thruster
is not the time to be leaving the helm, even away from the dock. Also, if
you rely on a second person, coordinating your actions might be a problem,
particularly if that person also has to tie up. We've all heard a skipper
screaming at his crew up forward, who can't hear him or else can't
understand what he wants.
Altogether, Wyoming strikes me as a potentially awkward beast to maneouver,
with her length and high sides -- not mention shallow draft (no grip on the
water) and only outboard power. I would want a powerful bow thruster that
could be left in place when necessary, and definitely one that would work in
both directions without having to be moved to the other side of the boat.
Control would have to be from the helm. If I were building her, I would
plan for coming alongside in a narrow channel, with lots of other boats
passing both ways, in a strong wind and heavy rain. Then I might throw in
some other boats tied alongside, leaving only barely enough dock.
Probably the only sure plan is never dock when there's a crowd watching.
That's guaranteed to be when everything goes wrong! When no one's around to
see, you'll make a perfect job of it every time.
Good luck, it sounds like your headed for a real cruise-of-a-lifetime.
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Blunck [mailto:boatbuilding@...]
Sent: January 28, 2002 7:38 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Wyo Update
This is about what I had in mind. Making a mount that would wedge into
place on either side. I just figured on having an on/off and
forward/reverse switches at the helm. The motor would be fixed as a side
thruster. If needed one could go forward and hand steer on real tricky
maneuvers. On a long boat such as the Wyo I envision docking more often by
placing the nose against a pier and having a crew tie up loosely, then swing
in the stern. On berthing, nose first is more practical.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: Harry W. James
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2002 4:07 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Wyo Update
On my Wyoming concept, I was going to mount the trolling motor to a
tapered board with a mount on either side of the bow about 5-10 feet
back that it would slide into. The motor would be stored in a box up
forward with all the wires run to it permanently. When coming up to a
dock the motor would be dropped into the mount away from the dock. There
would be a spring loaded to the center left, right control switch at the
helm station. The switch would rotate through 180 degrees so as not to
confuse the helmsman when you move the motor from one side to the other.
HJ
Jeff Blunck wrote:
>
> No wood yet, still getting prices. Besides it's to cold for epoxy to
set yet.
>
> Phil Bolger says to make a well in the front cockpit but I think I'll
try to mount a trolling motor mount that I can swing over the side and have
the wife run by hand if need be. You could rig it to be rigged to run at 90
degrees to the hull and have the on/off switch by the steering wheel in
side. That would work as well. Then all could be stored away when not in
use. I'll have a battery up front anyway for the windlass I have for anchor
chain.
>
> Jeff
>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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This is the way I'm thinking. The Wyo project is just a way to go cruising. When it's all over, I'll not have a use for the Wyo. I'd sell all in one piece, or strip it of the electronics and motor. Of course all the accessories like holding tanks, pumps, etc. will be worth something.
I can easily spend $20,000 upgrading, refitting a used boat big enough to cruise for a year or two. Buying used, you'd be fortunate to get what you paid for it, let alone what you invested to get it in shape for a long cruise. Plus the upfront cost of $25k - $100k depending on boat/size/power.
Maybe with all the gear I could eek out $5,000 or more depending on prices for a used Wyo loaded for cruising.
It's all about the goal. Getting there for a boat builder is half the fun.
Jeff
I can easily spend $20,000 upgrading, refitting a used boat big enough to cruise for a year or two. Buying used, you'd be fortunate to get what you paid for it, let alone what you invested to get it in shape for a long cruise. Plus the upfront cost of $25k - $100k depending on boat/size/power.
Maybe with all the gear I could eek out $5,000 or more depending on prices for a used Wyo loaded for cruising.
It's all about the goal. Getting there for a boat builder is half the fun.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: David Ryan
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 1:54 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Wyo Update
>Since the marine ply is $3000 more but worth $3100 at the end of 5
>years, looks like a wash. It's the up front cost to look at. Now
>if you wanted the boat for 10 or more years, go marine. In my case
>5 years down the road it's a wash.
A guaranteed $3K in your hand now vs. a theoretical $3.1K in 5 years?
That's not a wash, that's a major argument for against the marine ply
-- at least by any business standard. Not that "wise business
decision" has any place in backyard boat building!!!
Most of my big boat day-dreaming involves a five year bail out.
Unless I lucked into someone who wanted a big silly boat, but didn't
want to build it himself (how likely is that?) I'd plan on selling
the motor and electronics (although I bet the return on electronics
is as bad on the return on ACX) and burning the rest.
So if it took a year to build and $15K to build a Wyo, and then I got
to enjoy it for five and managed to get $1.5K (10%) back out at the
end that's only $2.25K a year to build a great beast of a boat and
five years adventures. Sound like a deal!
YIBB,
David
C.E.P.
134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
New York, New York 10001
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
This is about what I had in mind. Making a mount that would wedge into place on either side. I just figured on having an on/off and forward/reverse switches at the helm. The motor would be fixed as a side thruster. If needed one could go forward and hand steer on real tricky maneuvers. On a long boat such as the Wyo I envision docking more often by placing the nose against a pier and having a crew tie up loosely, then swing in the stern. On berthing, nose first is more practical.
Jeff
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: Harry W. James
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2002 4:07 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Wyo Update
On my Wyoming concept, I was going to mount the trolling motor to a
tapered board with a mount on either side of the bow about 5-10 feet
back that it would slide into. The motor would be stored in a box up
forward with all the wires run to it permanently. When coming up to a
dock the motor would be dropped into the mount away from the dock. There
would be a spring loaded to the center left, right control switch at the
helm station. The switch would rotate through 180 degrees so as not to
confuse the helmsman when you move the motor from one side to the other.
HJ
Jeff Blunck wrote:
>
> No wood yet, still getting prices. Besides it's to cold for epoxy to set yet.
>
> Phil Bolger says to make a well in the front cockpit but I think I'll try to mount a trolling motor mount that I can swing over the side and have the wife run by hand if need be. You could rig it to be rigged to run at 90 degrees to the hull and have the on/off switch by the steering wheel in side. That would work as well. Then all could be stored away when not in use. I'll have a battery up front anyway for the windlass I have for anchor chain.
>
> Jeff
>
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
On my Wyoming concept, I was going to mount the trolling motor to a
tapered board with a mount on either side of the bow about 5-10 feet
back that it would slide into. The motor would be stored in a box up
forward with all the wires run to it permanently. When coming up to a
dock the motor would be dropped into the mount away from the dock. There
would be a spring loaded to the center left, right control switch at the
helm station. The switch would rotate through 180 degrees so as not to
confuse the helmsman when you move the motor from one side to the other.
HJ
Jeff Blunck wrote:
tapered board with a mount on either side of the bow about 5-10 feet
back that it would slide into. The motor would be stored in a box up
forward with all the wires run to it permanently. When coming up to a
dock the motor would be dropped into the mount away from the dock. There
would be a spring loaded to the center left, right control switch at the
helm station. The switch would rotate through 180 degrees so as not to
confuse the helmsman when you move the motor from one side to the other.
HJ
Jeff Blunck wrote:
>
> No wood yet, still getting prices. Besides it's to cold for epoxy to set yet.
>
> Phil Bolger says to make a well in the front cockpit but I think I'll try to mount a trolling motor mount that I can swing over the side and have the wife run by hand if need be. You could rig it to be rigged to run at 90 degrees to the hull and have the on/off switch by the steering wheel in side. That would work as well. Then all could be stored away when not in use. I'll have a battery up front anyway for the windlass I have for anchor chain.
>
> Jeff
>
No wood yet, still getting prices. Besides it's to cold for epoxy to set yet.
Phil Bolger says to make a well in the front cockpit but I think I'll try to mount a trolling motor mount that I can swing over the side and have the wife run by hand if need be. You could rig it to be rigged to run at 90 degrees to the hull and have the on/off switch by the steering wheel in side. That would work as well. Then all could be stored away when not in use. I'll have a battery up front anyway for the windlass I have for anchor chain.
Jeff
Phil Bolger says to make a well in the front cockpit but I think I'll try to mount a trolling motor mount that I can swing over the side and have the wife run by hand if need be. You could rig it to be rigged to run at 90 degrees to the hull and have the on/off switch by the steering wheel in side. That would work as well. Then all could be stored away when not in use. I'll have a battery up front anyway for the windlass I have for anchor chain.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: sneakeasy2000
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 11:58 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Wyo Update
Thanks Jeff, good explaination! I'm going to stay with the plans for
a keel on Sneakeasy. You mentioned the bow thruster being and
electric trolling motor type. How do you plan to mount it? In a
well? Have you sawed wood yet on Wyoming?
Steve Bosquette
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>Since the marine ply is $3000 more but worth $3100 at the end of 5A guaranteed $3K in your hand now vs. a theoretical $3.1K in 5 years?
>years, looks like a wash. It's the up front cost to look at. Now
>if you wanted the boat for 10 or more years, go marine. In my case
>5 years down the road it's a wash.
That's not a wash, that's a major argument for against the marine ply
-- at least by any business standard. Not that "wise business
decision" has any place in backyard boat building!!!
Most of my big boat day-dreaming involves a five year bail out.
Unless I lucked into someone who wanted a big silly boat, but didn't
want to build it himself (how likely is that?) I'd plan on selling
the motor and electronics (although I bet the return on electronics
is as bad on the return on ACX) and burning the rest.
So if it took a year to build and $15K to build a Wyo, and then I got
to enjoy it for five and managed to get $1.5K (10%) back out at the
end that's only $2.25K a year to build a great beast of a boat and
five years adventures. Sound like a deal!
YIBB,
David
C.E.P.
134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
New York, New York 10001
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
Since types of plywood is always a issue on this discussion group, I'll rely the education I've gotten over the last month or so talking to suppliers and getting bids.
Okume, Fir, MDO, ACX. Assuming epoxy saturation both sides no checking so in Fir you'd have to glass. No deterioration due to lack of maintenance.
First plan on how long you expect the boat to last. 2-10 years, go ACX or MDO as the only difference is the finish on the exteriror plys. MDO has the same construction rules as ACX for interior voids. MDO has a better finish and a finish capable of better paint adhesion.
Over 10 years go Fir or Okume. Okume is lighter so if weight is an issue or you don't want to glass to prevent checking.
Any void in the interior plys will eventually start rotting regardless of epoxy protection. It's more dependant on then enviroment. Any place with consistant temperatures without the large day to day swings from say 90 degrees day time to 65 at night. In other words if a morning dew is rare, odds are the exterior will last longer than you'r expect. MDO last longer for road signs since both exterior plys warm and cool at basically the same rate when the sun sets. This is not the same for a hull with one side in water and another exposed to swinging temps. This is not to say MDO is a bad choice! It may be my option on the Wyo.
Price, basically they all say that when doing home built boat, expect maximum value of 50% of materials in 5 years. When surveyed, wooden boats without marine ply can come in as low as 10 cents on the dollar.
So, if as in my case, marine ply will cost $7000 dollars, and in 5 years that has a value of $3500, it's actual cost is $3500. MDO is $4000 so at 10 percent, $400 dollars value or $3100 less than the marine ply.
Since the marine ply is $3000 more but worth $3100 at the end of 5 years, looks like a wash. It's the up front cost to look at. Now if you wanted the boat for 10 or more years, go marine. In my case 5 years down the road it's a wash.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Okume, Fir, MDO, ACX. Assuming epoxy saturation both sides no checking so in Fir you'd have to glass. No deterioration due to lack of maintenance.
First plan on how long you expect the boat to last. 2-10 years, go ACX or MDO as the only difference is the finish on the exteriror plys. MDO has the same construction rules as ACX for interior voids. MDO has a better finish and a finish capable of better paint adhesion.
Over 10 years go Fir or Okume. Okume is lighter so if weight is an issue or you don't want to glass to prevent checking.
Any void in the interior plys will eventually start rotting regardless of epoxy protection. It's more dependant on then enviroment. Any place with consistant temperatures without the large day to day swings from say 90 degrees day time to 65 at night. In other words if a morning dew is rare, odds are the exterior will last longer than you'r expect. MDO last longer for road signs since both exterior plys warm and cool at basically the same rate when the sun sets. This is not the same for a hull with one side in water and another exposed to swinging temps. This is not to say MDO is a bad choice! It may be my option on the Wyo.
Price, basically they all say that when doing home built boat, expect maximum value of 50% of materials in 5 years. When surveyed, wooden boats without marine ply can come in as low as 10 cents on the dollar.
So, if as in my case, marine ply will cost $7000 dollars, and in 5 years that has a value of $3500, it's actual cost is $3500. MDO is $4000 so at 10 percent, $400 dollars value or $3100 less than the marine ply.
Since the marine ply is $3000 more but worth $3100 at the end of 5 years, looks like a wash. It's the up front cost to look at. Now if you wanted the boat for 10 or more years, go marine. In my case 5 years down the road it's a wash.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Sounds like a very sensible and well though-out plan. They should be
easy to construct and to maintain.
Steve Bosquette
easy to construct and to maintain.
Steve Bosquette
--- In bolger@y..., "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> Essentially yes. The cut outs will be parallelograms with each
corner well rounded. The vertical edges will be angled at 22 1/2
degrees. The glass panels will be rectangular and mounted from
behind. From the outside, they'll have the look I'm going for but
from a construction standpoint inside, I'll be building the frames
and slides for 90 degree corners.
>
> I believe all windows will be identical in size though my concept
drawing lacks true scale so it isn't obvious. Each opening will
have a maximum length of about 60 inches so a two 28" x 32" panels
will fit each opening. One fixed solid, the other will slide. I'll
work on a "negative" panel for the windows. Once I have what I want,
I can trace around the "negative" and cut out the openings then round
the edges over with my router.
>
> Jeff
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: sneakeasy2000
> To: bolger@y...
> Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 6:29 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Wyo Update
>
>
> Jeff,
> I'm a little thick headed I guess, but could you please elaborate
on
> the windows. Because of the slant for the more modern look are
you
> planning to cut a paralellagram(sp) shape into the side panels
and
> then rather than cutting the plexi the same shape just installing
the
> glass rectangular covering the hole??
>
> Steve Bosquette
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "jhbjap" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> > For those who are interested, I got a fax back from Phil Bolger
> > regarding a few questions I sent. It only took two hours to
get a
> > response by fax.
> >
> > 1. He approves of the idea for cutting the window shapes in the
> side
> > panels and using rectangular glass panes (plexiglass).
> >
> > 2. If I installed a 3"x3" ( two 2x4 laminates) shoe most of the
> > length of the bottom, terminating on a bulkhead for strength, I
> could
> > do without the centerboard. Of course I'd go from 6" to 9" in
> > draft. Plus the trolling motor bow thruster would probably be
> needed
> > for docking in currents and wind.
> >
> > 3. A quote: "Western red cedar should be perfectly good for all
> > structural parts. Something harder for the shoe."
> >
> > He recommended building a model to check out the look. It's
very
> > cold outside now, might be just the thing to keep me busy until
> > spring.
> >
> > Jeff
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
----
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Thanks Jeff, good explaination! I'm going to stay with the plans for
a keel on Sneakeasy. You mentioned the bow thruster being and
electric trolling motor type. How do you plan to mount it? In a
well? Have you sawed wood yet on Wyoming?
Steve Bosquette
a keel on Sneakeasy. You mentioned the bow thruster being and
electric trolling motor type. How do you plan to mount it? In a
well? Have you sawed wood yet on Wyoming?
Steve Bosquette
--- In bolger@y..., "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> On the Wyo plans, it shows a 1" wedge at the front of the slot to
force the water down so it can't build up pressure in the slot
opening, plus a well rounded exit edge at the rear of the slot. This
is supposed to stop most of the issues for high speed. Also the
center board on the Wyo is not built like a sailboat has, it's just a
flat 3/4" piece of plywood rounded off on the edges. The board is
24" by 45" long. When lowered it presents 1/2 of the board to the
water as a triangle to a depth of 24 inches.
>
> The board gives about 540 square inches of surface to resist
lateral forces. The 3" tall shoe running about 35 feet aft from the
bow would present 1200 square inches. But because it's not all on a
pivot point, it won't be as good for docking but for swells and to
stop the stern from wanting to swing around in following waves, it'll
be a bit better.
>
> Jeff
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Essentially yes. The cut outs will be parallelograms with each corner well rounded. The vertical edges will be angled at 22 1/2 degrees. The glass panels will be rectangular and mounted from behind. From the outside, they'll have the look I'm going for but from a construction standpoint inside, I'll be building the frames and slides for 90 degree corners.
I believe all windows will be identical in size though my concept drawing lacks true scale so it isn't obvious. Each opening will have a maximum length of about 60 inches so a two 28" x 32" panels will fit each opening. One fixed solid, the other will slide. I'll work on a "negative" panel for the windows. Once I have what I want, I can trace around the "negative" and cut out the openings then round the edges over with my router.
Jeff
I believe all windows will be identical in size though my concept drawing lacks true scale so it isn't obvious. Each opening will have a maximum length of about 60 inches so a two 28" x 32" panels will fit each opening. One fixed solid, the other will slide. I'll work on a "negative" panel for the windows. Once I have what I want, I can trace around the "negative" and cut out the openings then round the edges over with my router.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: sneakeasy2000
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 6:29 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Wyo Update
Jeff,
I'm a little thick headed I guess, but could you please elaborate on
the windows. Because of the slant for the more modern look are you
planning to cut a paralellagram(sp) shape into the side panels and
then rather than cutting the plexi the same shape just installing the
glass rectangular covering the hole??
Steve Bosquette
--- In bolger@y..., "jhbjap" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> For those who are interested, I got a fax back from Phil Bolger
> regarding a few questions I sent. It only took two hours to get a
> response by fax.
>
> 1. He approves of the idea for cutting the window shapes in the
side
> panels and using rectangular glass panes (plexiglass).
>
> 2. If I installed a 3"x3" ( two 2x4 laminates) shoe most of the
> length of the bottom, terminating on a bulkhead for strength, I
could
> do without the centerboard. Of course I'd go from 6" to 9" in
> draft. Plus the trolling motor bow thruster would probably be
needed
> for docking in currents and wind.
>
> 3. A quote: "Western red cedar should be perfectly good for all
> structural parts. Something harder for the shoe."
>
> He recommended building a model to check out the look. It's very
> cold outside now, might be just the thing to keep me busy until
> spring.
>
> Jeff
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
On the Wyo plans, it shows a 1" wedge at the front of the slot to force the water down so it can't build up pressure in the slot opening, plus a well rounded exit edge at the rear of the slot. This is supposed to stop most of the issues for high speed. Also the center board on the Wyo is not built like a sailboat has, it's just a flat 3/4" piece of plywood rounded off on the edges. The board is 24" by 45" long. When lowered it presents 1/2 of the board to the water as a triangle to a depth of 24 inches.
The board gives about 540 square inches of surface to resist lateral forces. The 3" tall shoe running about 35 feet aft from the bow would present 1200 square inches. But because it's not all on a pivot point, it won't be as good for docking but for swells and to stop the stern from wanting to swing around in following waves, it'll be a bit better.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
The board gives about 540 square inches of surface to resist lateral forces. The 3" tall shoe running about 35 feet aft from the bow would present 1200 square inches. But because it's not all on a pivot point, it won't be as good for docking but for swells and to stop the stern from wanting to swing around in following waves, it'll be a bit better.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Jeff,
I'm a little thick headed I guess, but could you please elaborate on
the windows. Because of the slant for the more modern look are you
planning to cut a paralellagram(sp) shape into the side panels and
then rather than cutting the plexi the same shape just installing the
glass rectangular covering the hole??
Steve Bosquette
I'm a little thick headed I guess, but could you please elaborate on
the windows. Because of the slant for the more modern look are you
planning to cut a paralellagram(sp) shape into the side panels and
then rather than cutting the plexi the same shape just installing the
glass rectangular covering the hole??
Steve Bosquette
--- In bolger@y..., "jhbjap" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> For those who are interested, I got a fax back from Phil Bolger
> regarding a few questions I sent. It only took two hours to get a
> response by fax.
>
> 1. He approves of the idea for cutting the window shapes in the
side
> panels and using rectangular glass panes (plexiglass).
>
> 2. If I installed a 3"x3" ( two 2x4 laminates) shoe most of the
> length of the bottom, terminating on a bulkhead for strength, I
could
> do without the centerboard. Of course I'd go from 6" to 9" in
> draft. Plus the trolling motor bow thruster would probably be
needed
> for docking in currents and wind.
>
> 3. A quote: "Western red cedar should be perfectly good for all
> structural parts. Something harder for the shoe."
>
> He recommended building a model to check out the look. It's very
> cold outside now, might be just the thing to keep me busy until
> spring.
>
> Jeff
This is both interesting and helpful. I was wondering just the
opposite on my Sneakeasy; that is, not putting on the keel but using
a centerboard forward, ala Wyoming. I thought better of it because
of the added complexity of the trunk, etc. but mostly I remember in
his writeup of Wyoming in BWOM that the speed potential causes water
pressure within the trunk which requires a remedy. I don 't have the
book handy for the fix but he suggested something. I guess I'll
stick with adding the keel. Thanks Jeff!
Steve Bosquette
opposite on my Sneakeasy; that is, not putting on the keel but using
a centerboard forward, ala Wyoming. I thought better of it because
of the added complexity of the trunk, etc. but mostly I remember in
his writeup of Wyoming in BWOM that the speed potential causes water
pressure within the trunk which requires a remedy. I don 't have the
book handy for the fix but he suggested something. I guess I'll
stick with adding the keel. Thanks Jeff!
Steve Bosquette
--- In bolger@y..., "jhbjap" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> For those who are interested, I got a fax back from Phil Bolger
> regarding a few questions I sent. It only took two hours to get a
> response by fax.
>
> 1. He approves of the idea for cutting the window shapes in the
side
> panels and using rectangular glass panes (plexiglass).
>
> 2. If I installed a 3"x3" ( two 2x4 laminates) shoe most of the
> length of the bottom, terminating on a bulkhead for strength, I
could
> do without the centerboard. Of course I'd go from 6" to 9" in
> draft. Plus the trolling motor bow thruster would probably be
needed
> for docking in currents and wind.
>
> 3. A quote: "Western red cedar should be perfectly good for all
> structural parts. Something harder for the shoe."
>
> He recommended building a model to check out the look. It's very
> cold outside now, might be just the thing to keep me busy until
> spring.
>
> Jeff
For those who are interested, I got a fax back from Phil Bolger
regarding a few questions I sent. It only took two hours to get a
response by fax.
1. He approves of the idea for cutting the window shapes in the side
panels and using rectangular glass panes (plexiglass).
2. If I installed a 3"x3" ( two 2x4 laminates) shoe most of the
length of the bottom, terminating on a bulkhead for strength, I could
do without the centerboard. Of course I'd go from 6" to 9" in
draft. Plus the trolling motor bow thruster would probably be needed
for docking in currents and wind.
3. A quote: "Western red cedar should be perfectly good for all
structural parts. Something harder for the shoe."
He recommended building a model to check out the look. It's very
cold outside now, might be just the thing to keep me busy until
spring.
Jeff
regarding a few questions I sent. It only took two hours to get a
response by fax.
1. He approves of the idea for cutting the window shapes in the side
panels and using rectangular glass panes (plexiglass).
2. If I installed a 3"x3" ( two 2x4 laminates) shoe most of the
length of the bottom, terminating on a bulkhead for strength, I could
do without the centerboard. Of course I'd go from 6" to 9" in
draft. Plus the trolling motor bow thruster would probably be needed
for docking in currents and wind.
3. A quote: "Western red cedar should be perfectly good for all
structural parts. Something harder for the shoe."
He recommended building a model to check out the look. It's very
cold outside now, might be just the thing to keep me busy until
spring.
Jeff