Re: [bolger] Wyo update
Thomas:
Reading over your response, I remember that my butt blocks were thin ply and were glued only with no clenched nails. Probably they were not very good joints in the first place. Jim Michalak recommends using lumber for BJs, but the grain would seem to be wrong. Do you use ply?
Chuck
Reading over your response, I remember that my butt blocks were thin ply and were glued only with no clenched nails. Probably they were not very good joints in the first place. Jim Michalak recommends using lumber for BJs, but the grain would seem to be wrong. Do you use ply?
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: thomas dalzell
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2002 12:32 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Wyo update
But blocks do work by themselves, and have been used
successfuly for years. I don't know what happened in
this particualr case, but if you get a good glue joint
(though in the past, they even relied a lot on
clenched nails) use a heavy enough block, align the
blocks grain with the panel, seal the end grain of the
panels, you shouldn't have to even sheath. If you
glass on top of that, as I do for general prottection
and structure reasons. You absolutely shouldn't need
to put the glass tape in there. But I am not saying
don't do it, what can it hurt.
I used to look down on butt blocks, but they turn out
to be easier to finish than scarphs. I have done some
boats with scarphs where the scarphs printed through
the glass. I can't find the butt blocks on my current
catamaran.
>I don't know, I used interior ply butt blocks on my
Tennessee, and the cracks on the exterior opened up to
the point that I felt compelled to go back and tape
over them. Now I just use tape on both sides of
all joints.<BR>
<BR>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
But blocks do work by themselves, and have been used
successfuly for years. I don't know what happened in
this particualr case, but if you get a good glue joint
(though in the past, they even relied a lot on
clenched nails) use a heavy enough block, align the
blocks grain with the panel, seal the end grain of the
panels, you shouldn't have to even sheath. If you
glass on top of that, as I do for general prottection
and structure reasons. You absolutely shouldn't need
to put the glass tape in there. But I am not saying
don't do it, what can it hurt.
I used to look down on butt blocks, but they turn out
to be easier to finish than scarphs. I have done some
boats with scarphs where the scarphs printed through
the glass. I can't find the butt blocks on my current
catamaran.
the point that I felt compelled to go back and tape
over them. Now I just use tape on both sides of
all joints.<BR>
<BR>
______________________________________________________________________
Find, Connect, Date!http://personals.yahoo.ca
successfuly for years. I don't know what happened in
this particualr case, but if you get a good glue joint
(though in the past, they even relied a lot on
clenched nails) use a heavy enough block, align the
blocks grain with the panel, seal the end grain of the
panels, you shouldn't have to even sheath. If you
glass on top of that, as I do for general prottection
and structure reasons. You absolutely shouldn't need
to put the glass tape in there. But I am not saying
don't do it, what can it hurt.
I used to look down on butt blocks, but they turn out
to be easier to finish than scarphs. I have done some
boats with scarphs where the scarphs printed through
the glass. I can't find the butt blocks on my current
catamaran.
>I don't know, I used interior ply butt blocks on myTennessee, and the cracks on the exterior opened up to
the point that I felt compelled to go back and tape
over them. Now I just use tape on both sides of
all joints.<BR>
<BR>
______________________________________________________________________
Find, Connect, Date!http://personals.yahoo.ca
I don't know, I used interior ply butt blocks on my Tennessee, and the cracks on the exterior opened up to the point that I felt compelled to go back and tape over them. Now I just use tape on both sides of all joints.
Chuck
when loaded, the side panels may flex when taking on good sized waves.
Never hurts to do the "belt and suspenders" approach for the peace of mind
effect.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Chuck
> If you are using butt blocks alone, that should do itYour are correct. I figure on a boat like the Wyo weighing in at 10,000 lbs
> also. But on a belt and suspenders basis, it may
> produce peace of mind.
when loaded, the side panels may flex when taking on good sized waves.
Never hurts to do the "belt and suspenders" approach for the peace of mind
effect.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> If you are using butt blocks alone, that should do itYour are correct. I figure on a boat like the Wyo weighing in at 10,000 lbs
> also. But on a belt and suspenders basis, it may
> produce peace of mind.
when loaded, the side panels may flex when taking on good sized waves.
Never hurts to do the "belt and suspenders" approach for the peace of mind
effect.
Jeff
Looks kinda wavey there Jeff :-)
I found that by simply clamping down a straight edge works wonders or
at least it did when I used this method on my Micros 1/2" bottom.
You'll be an expert by the time all the butt splices are done!Best of
luck and lots of success with her!!!!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,sitting tight with a forecast of 5 to 10 cm of white
stuff looming on the
horizon................
I found that by simply clamping down a straight edge works wonders or
at least it did when I used this method on my Micros 1/2" bottom.
You'll be an expert by the time all the butt splices are done!Best of
luck and lots of success with her!!!!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,sitting tight with a forecast of 5 to 10 cm of white
stuff looming on the
horizon................
--- In bolger@y..., "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> I worked on the side panels this weekend. I tried a splicing method
> described here on the group using a power planer. I really like
the way it
> finishes out. I posted a couple pictures on my site.
>
> www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
>
> Thanks to whoever posted the concept, it works great!
>
> Jeff
If you are using butt blocks alone, that should do it
also. But on a belt and suspenders basis, it may
produce peace of mind.
--- Jeff Blunck <boatbuilding@...> wrote:
______________________________________________________________________
Find, Connect, Date!http://personals.yahoo.ca
also. But on a belt and suspenders basis, it may
produce peace of mind.
--- Jeff Blunck <boatbuilding@...> wrote:
______________________________________________________________________
Find, Connect, Date!http://personals.yahoo.ca
> Neat Pictures!. If you are butt blocking the backThey will be sheathed in cloth. I think this guarantees if something breaks
> side, why do you need this fiberglass tape on the
> outside? Is it because you won't be sheathing the
> panels in their entirety?
it won't be the joint.
Jeff
Neat Pictures!. If you are butt blocking the back
side, why do you need this fiberglass tape on the
outside? Is it because you won't be sheathing the
panels in their entirety?
Another way of doing this would be to use the gougeon
scarfer (homebuilt version), just put a .1", or
whatever bevel on each ply sheat, and then glass it.
I am not sure any of this is faster than scarphs,
though you don't loose 8-1 inches per joint. Having
built a trimaran where one panel had to be scarphed to
gain an extra 2 inches (more than once this
happened), I am pretty inured to the idea that a boat
has to be built to fit the plywood...
______________________________________________________________________
Games, Movies, Music & Sports!http://entertainment.yahoo.ca
side, why do you need this fiberglass tape on the
outside? Is it because you won't be sheathing the
panels in their entirety?
Another way of doing this would be to use the gougeon
scarfer (homebuilt version), just put a .1", or
whatever bevel on each ply sheat, and then glass it.
I am not sure any of this is faster than scarphs,
though you don't loose 8-1 inches per joint. Having
built a trimaran where one panel had to be scarphed to
gain an extra 2 inches (more than once this
happened), I am pretty inured to the idea that a boat
has to be built to fit the plywood...
______________________________________________________________________
Games, Movies, Music & Sports!http://entertainment.yahoo.ca
I worked on the side panels this weekend. I tried a splicing method
described here on the group using a power planer. I really like the way it
finishes out. I posted a couple pictures on my site.
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
Thanks to whoever posted the concept, it works great!
Jeff
described here on the group using a power planer. I really like the way it
finishes out. I posted a couple pictures on my site.
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
Thanks to whoever posted the concept, it works great!
Jeff
Jeff
Yes, the cutter and the bearing are the same diameter. A 1/2"
diameter cutter by 1/4" shank works well.
Larry
Yes, the cutter and the bearing are the same diameter. A 1/2"
diameter cutter by 1/4" shank works well.
Larry
--- In bolger@y..., "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> Very good idea. I grasp the concept. I assume the pattern bit for
the router would has the cutter the same diameter as the bearing.
>
> Jeff
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: boatbuilder0101
> To: bolger@y...
> Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 10:29 AM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Wyo update
>
>
> Jeff
>
> One way to cut out the window openings in the ply is to use a
pattern
> made from 1/4"MDF. Lay out and cut the opening in the MDF. I use
a
> fine blade in a saber saw. The MDF can be sanded easily to get
the
> pattern "just right". Then clamp this pattern on the ply, cut
out
> the hole in the ply 1/8"-1/4" smaller than the hole in the
pattern.
> Then use a pattern router bit(the kind with a roller bearing
above
> the cutter) to trim the ply to match the pattern. This leaves a
> perfect cutout in the ply and you can use the pattern for all the
> window cutouts. Making the pattern takes time, but you save time
> cutting out the openings and there is less chance of wasting
plywood.
> I would suggest fitting the ply to the boat and then placing the
ply
> on the workbench to cut the openings.
>
> Larry
>
>
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>
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like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Very good idea. I grasp the concept. I assume the pattern bit for the router would has the cutter the same diameter as the bearing.
Jeff
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: boatbuilder0101
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 10:29 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Wyo update
Jeff
One way to cut out the window openings in the ply is to use a pattern
made from 1/4"MDF. Lay out and cut the opening in the MDF. I use a
fine blade in a saber saw. The MDF can be sanded easily to get the
pattern "just right". Then clamp this pattern on the ply, cut out
the hole in the ply 1/8"-1/4" smaller than the hole in the pattern.
Then use a pattern router bit(the kind with a roller bearing above
the cutter) to trim the ply to match the pattern. This leaves a
perfect cutout in the ply and you can use the pattern for all the
window cutouts. Making the pattern takes time, but you save time
cutting out the openings and there is less chance of wasting plywood.
I would suggest fitting the ply to the boat and then placing the ply
on the workbench to cut the openings.
Larry
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Jeff
One way to cut out the window openings in the ply is to use a pattern
made from 1/4"MDF. Lay out and cut the opening in the MDF. I use a
fine blade in a saber saw. The MDF can be sanded easily to get the
pattern "just right". Then clamp this pattern on the ply, cut out
the hole in the ply 1/8"-1/4" smaller than the hole in the pattern.
Then use a pattern router bit(the kind with a roller bearing above
the cutter) to trim the ply to match the pattern. This leaves a
perfect cutout in the ply and you can use the pattern for all the
window cutouts. Making the pattern takes time, but you save time
cutting out the openings and there is less chance of wasting plywood.
I would suggest fitting the ply to the boat and then placing the ply
on the workbench to cut the openings.
Larry
One way to cut out the window openings in the ply is to use a pattern
made from 1/4"MDF. Lay out and cut the opening in the MDF. I use a
fine blade in a saber saw. The MDF can be sanded easily to get the
pattern "just right". Then clamp this pattern on the ply, cut out
the hole in the ply 1/8"-1/4" smaller than the hole in the pattern.
Then use a pattern router bit(the kind with a roller bearing above
the cutter) to trim the ply to match the pattern. This leaves a
perfect cutout in the ply and you can use the pattern for all the
window cutouts. Making the pattern takes time, but you save time
cutting out the openings and there is less chance of wasting plywood.
I would suggest fitting the ply to the boat and then placing the ply
on the workbench to cut the openings.
Larry