[bolger] Re: Non-Blushing Epoxy?
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Crandall <crandall@...>
> On Thu, 13 Jan 2000, Chuck Leinweber wrote:
>
> > I have used West and System Three and both blushed - more recently I
used
> > Raka with absolutely no blush, and it is cheaper too!
> > Chuck Leinweber Duckworks Magazinehttp://www.hilconet.com/~dworksmg
>
> I have used Raka, and it is fully capable of blushing.
Especially if you say naughty things to it!
<groan>
JB, blushing
----- Original Message -----
From: lm2 <lm2@...>
> Blushing is caused generally by humidity and tempeture factors and can be
> made much worse by applying a too thick coat of epoxy ...but as the amine
> will simply wipe of with a paper towel whats the problem?
I've never been able to figure that one out myself. But there are enough
horror stories about blushing goo that having a non-blushing product in your
line makes good business sense for the marketer. I'm not willing to pay more
for it myself, however.
JB
Acetone huh?
I did try alcohol on a very small epoxy job early on in the Windsprint
building. It must have worked because the next coat bonded with no
problems.
Acetone is the boaters best friend (or enemy). Around the marina where I
used to keep my Catalina, someone would be doing some especially egregious
job, and of course the ubiquitous male beer drinkers would congregate around
the guy's boat; at the first sign of a problem, someone would yell, "thats
it, get out the acetone!". I always wondered what it would do to cured
epoxy, so thanks for the tip. I was worried about using it, because a guy
was trying to rub some cured black 5200 off his cabin top and actually ended
up putting creases in his gelcoat by rubbing with acetone and a rough cloth.
Gelcoat mat not be strong, buts its pretty tough.
Robert & Amy Lundy
St. Petersburg, fla.
robert@...
amy@...
I did try alcohol on a very small epoxy job early on in the Windsprint
building. It must have worked because the next coat bonded with no
problems.
Acetone is the boaters best friend (or enemy). Around the marina where I
used to keep my Catalina, someone would be doing some especially egregious
job, and of course the ubiquitous male beer drinkers would congregate around
the guy's boat; at the first sign of a problem, someone would yell, "thats
it, get out the acetone!". I always wondered what it would do to cured
epoxy, so thanks for the tip. I was worried about using it, because a guy
was trying to rub some cured black 5200 off his cabin top and actually ended
up putting creases in his gelcoat by rubbing with acetone and a rough cloth.
Gelcoat mat not be strong, buts its pretty tough.
Robert & Amy Lundy
St. Petersburg, fla.
robert@...
amy@...
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Richard Barnes [mailto:oakbowerybarnes@...]
> Sent: January 14, 2000 7:54 PM
> To:bolger@egroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Non-Blushing Epoxy?
>
>
> I'm having pretty good results removing the blush with acetone
> when I don't
> want to wet the adjacent surfaces (pretty often during the bulkhead
> filleting and taping stages), but it might prove smelly or worse working
> indoors. The acetone does the job with very small quantities so
> there is no
> flood of water to contend with. Can you ventilate the place
> pretty well for
> a half hour or so? Or buy left over Y2K gas masks for the whole family
> from someone who over prepared??? ; )
>
> ----------
> > 1. If you're building indoors, you have to move the boat
> outside to "soap
> > and water" the stuff away
> > 2. repeated washings ( I've done " a little here, a little there" not in
> > sequence epoxying to make sure each step cures right) put a
> "fuzz" on the
> > face of my pine plywood, probably (?) fir as well.
> > 3. If you don't make sure to get the stuff off completely, the books all
> > warn of DIRE circumstances.
> >
> > All of the above can be avoided by, for instance, doing your second coat
> > before the first cures and by meticulous thought about what gets epoxied
> > when. Off course this requires planning, not a first time builders best
> > friend :)
>
>
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After I did the initial post, I went back and dug around and found the
prices. These aren't too far off the MAS which eveyone has had good reports
on. I expected them to be in the Fiberglass Coatings Inc./RAKA mold about
$40-50 per 1.5 gallons of mixed product. Quite a bit more.
I hate blush, but with FGCI around the corner, its extrememly cost effective
to buy their product. RAKA is over on the east cost of FL, so shipping
might not be much more. RAKA and FGCI have similar product lines, so I'll
ask next time I'm there if they might be coming out with a no blush
hardener.
Robert & Amy Lundy
St. Petersburg, fla.
robert@...
amy@...
prices. These aren't too far off the MAS which eveyone has had good reports
on. I expected them to be in the Fiberglass Coatings Inc./RAKA mold about
$40-50 per 1.5 gallons of mixed product. Quite a bit more.
I hate blush, but with FGCI around the corner, its extrememly cost effective
to buy their product. RAKA is over on the east cost of FL, so shipping
might not be much more. RAKA and FGCI have similar product lines, so I'll
ask next time I'm there if they might be coming out with a no blush
hardener.
Robert & Amy Lundy
St. Petersburg, fla.
robert@...
amy@...
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Greg Rinaca [mailto:gregsail@...]
> Sent: January 14, 2000 7:26 PM
> To:bolger@...
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Non-Blushing Epoxy?
>
>
> Robert,
> I would suggest trying Raka's nonblushing hardener. It costs maybe an
> extra 10 bucks/gal of hardener but it eliminates cleaning blush. I have
> used quite a few gallons of Raka's and MAS's nonblushing hardeners, and
> never had either one form amine blush. You have to order the
> NONBLUSHING hardeners, though. Raka is considerably cheaper than MAS,
> but I have been happy with the performance of both.
> Concerning the epoxy dealer in Pearland, TX (near Houston) that you
> mentioned, their prices appear higher than RAKA's for essentially the
> same products; I haven't used them though.
> Greg
>
> "robert n. lundy" <rober-@...> wrote:
> original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=1766
> > I did the original (about non-blushing epoxy) post because blush is
> annoying
> > for the following reasons:
> >
> > 1. If you're building indoors, you have to move the boat outside to
> "soap
> > and water" the stuff away
> > 2. repeated washings ( I've done " a little here, a little there" not
> in
> > sequence epoxying to make sure each step cures right) put a "fuzz" on
> the
> > face of my pine plywood, probably (?) fir as well.
> > 3. If you don't make sure to get the stuff off completely, the books
> all
> > warn of DIRE circumstances.
> >
> > All of the above can be avoided by, for instance, doing your second
> coat
> > before the first cures and by meticulous thought about what gets
> epoxied
> > when. Off course this requires planning, not a first time builders
> best
> > friend :)
> >
> > Robert & Amy Lundy
> > St. Petersburg, fla.
> >robert@...
> >amy@...
> >
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: lm2 [mailto:lm2@...]
> > > Sent: January 14, 2000 3:02 PM
> > > To:bolger@egroups.com
> > > Subject: [bolger] Re: Non-Blushing Epoxy?
> > >
> > >
> > > Blushing is caused generally by humidity and tempeture factors and
> can be
> > > made much worse by applying a too thick coat of epoxy ...but as the
> amine
> > > will simply wipe of with a paper towel whats the problem?
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Chuck Leinweber" <duckworks@...>
> > > To: <bolger@egroups.com>
> > > Sent: Friday, January 14, 2000 3:14 PM
> > > Subject: [bolger] Re: Non-Blushing Epoxy?
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > > I have used Raka, and it is fully capable of blushing.
> > > >
> > > > Gee, Chris, I must be doing something wrong;-) Seriously,
> though, is
> > > there
> > > > some factor that you can identify that determines whether or not a
> > > > particular batch ends up blushing or not? Or is it simply
> > > serendipitous?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> -------
> > > > FreeLotto.com is the only internet site to offer three free
> chances
> > > > a day to win $1,000,000.00. We've already had two $1,000,000.00
> > > > jackpot winners and thousands of other cash prizes. You could be
> > > > a $1,000,000.00 winner tonight!
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> > > >
> > > > -- Create a poll/survey for your group!
> > > > --http://www.egroups.com/vote?listname=bolger&m=1
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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I'm having pretty good results removing the blush with acetone when I don't
want to wet the adjacent surfaces (pretty often during the bulkhead
filleting and taping stages), but it might prove smelly or worse working
indoors. The acetone does the job with very small quantities so there is no
flood of water to contend with. Can you ventilate the place pretty well for
a half hour or so? Or buy left over Y2K gas masks for the whole family
from someone who over prepared??? ; )
----------
want to wet the adjacent surfaces (pretty often during the bulkhead
filleting and taping stages), but it might prove smelly or worse working
indoors. The acetone does the job with very small quantities so there is no
flood of water to contend with. Can you ventilate the place pretty well for
a half hour or so? Or buy left over Y2K gas masks for the whole family
from someone who over prepared??? ; )
----------
> 1. If you're building indoors, you have to move the boat outside to "soap
> and water" the stuff away
> 2. repeated washings ( I've done " a little here, a little there" not in
> sequence epoxying to make sure each step cures right) put a "fuzz" on the
> face of my pine plywood, probably (?) fir as well.
> 3. If you don't make sure to get the stuff off completely, the books all
> warn of DIRE circumstances.
>
> All of the above can be avoided by, for instance, doing your second coat
> before the first cures and by meticulous thought about what gets epoxied
> when. Off course this requires planning, not a first time builders best
> friend :)
Robert,
I would suggest trying Raka's nonblushing hardener. It costs maybe an
extra 10 bucks/gal of hardener but it eliminates cleaning blush. I have
used quite a few gallons of Raka's and MAS's nonblushing hardeners, and
never had either one form amine blush. You have to order the
NONBLUSHING hardeners, though. Raka is considerably cheaper than MAS,
but I have been happy with the performance of both.
Concerning the epoxy dealer in Pearland, TX (near Houston) that you
mentioned, their prices appear higher than RAKA's for essentially the
same products; I haven't used them though.
Greg
"robert n. lundy" <rober-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=1766
I would suggest trying Raka's nonblushing hardener. It costs maybe an
extra 10 bucks/gal of hardener but it eliminates cleaning blush. I have
used quite a few gallons of Raka's and MAS's nonblushing hardeners, and
never had either one form amine blush. You have to order the
NONBLUSHING hardeners, though. Raka is considerably cheaper than MAS,
but I have been happy with the performance of both.
Concerning the epoxy dealer in Pearland, TX (near Houston) that you
mentioned, their prices appear higher than RAKA's for essentially the
same products; I haven't used them though.
Greg
"robert n. lundy" <rober-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=1766
> I did the original (about non-blushing epoxy) post because blush isannoying
> for the following reasons:"soap
>
> 1. If you're building indoors, you have to move the boat outside to
> and water" the stuff awayin
> 2. repeated washings ( I've done " a little here, a little there" not
> sequence epoxying to make sure each step cures right) put a "fuzz" onthe
> face of my pine plywood, probably (?) fir as well.all
> 3. If you don't make sure to get the stuff off completely, the books
> warn of DIRE circumstances.coat
>
> All of the above can be avoided by, for instance, doing your second
> before the first cures and by meticulous thought about what getsepoxied
> when. Off course this requires planning, not a first time buildersbest
> friend :)can be
>
> Robert & Amy Lundy
> St. Petersburg, fla.
>robert@...
>amy@...
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: lm2 [mailto:lm2@...]
> > Sent: January 14, 2000 3:02 PM
> > To:bolger@egroups.com
> > Subject: [bolger] Re: Non-Blushing Epoxy?
> >
> >
> > Blushing is caused generally by humidity and tempeture factors and
> > made much worse by applying a too thick coat of epoxy ...but as theamine
> > will simply wipe of with a paper towel whats the problem?though, is
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Chuck Leinweber" <duckworks@...>
> > To: <bolger@egroups.com>
> > Sent: Friday, January 14, 2000 3:14 PM
> > Subject: [bolger] Re: Non-Blushing Epoxy?
> >
> >
> > >
> > > > I have used Raka, and it is fully capable of blushing.
> > >
> > > Gee, Chris, I must be doing something wrong;-) Seriously,
> > there-------
> > > some factor that you can identify that determines whether or not a
> > > particular batch ends up blushing or not? Or is it simply
> > serendipitous?
> > >
> > >
> > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > > FreeLotto.com is the only internet site to offer three freechances
> > > a day to win $1,000,000.00. We've already had two $1,000,000.00
> > > jackpot winners and thousands of other cash prizes. You could be
> > > a $1,000,000.00 winner tonight!
> > >http://click.egroups.com/1/445/5/_/3457/_/947874225/
> > >
> > > -- Create a poll/survey for your group!
> > > --http://www.egroups.com/vote?listname=bolger&m=1
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
I did the original (about non-blushing epoxy) post because blush is annoying
for the following reasons:
1. If you're building indoors, you have to move the boat outside to "soap
and water" the stuff away
2. repeated washings ( I've done " a little here, a little there" not in
sequence epoxying to make sure each step cures right) put a "fuzz" on the
face of my pine plywood, probably (?) fir as well.
3. If you don't make sure to get the stuff off completely, the books all
warn of DIRE circumstances.
All of the above can be avoided by, for instance, doing your second coat
before the first cures and by meticulous thought about what gets epoxied
when. Off course this requires planning, not a first time builders best
friend :)
Robert & Amy Lundy
St. Petersburg, fla.
robert@...
amy@...
for the following reasons:
1. If you're building indoors, you have to move the boat outside to "soap
and water" the stuff away
2. repeated washings ( I've done " a little here, a little there" not in
sequence epoxying to make sure each step cures right) put a "fuzz" on the
face of my pine plywood, probably (?) fir as well.
3. If you don't make sure to get the stuff off completely, the books all
warn of DIRE circumstances.
All of the above can be avoided by, for instance, doing your second coat
before the first cures and by meticulous thought about what gets epoxied
when. Off course this requires planning, not a first time builders best
friend :)
Robert & Amy Lundy
St. Petersburg, fla.
robert@...
amy@...
> -----Original Message-----
> From: lm2 [mailto:lm2@...]
> Sent: January 14, 2000 3:02 PM
> To:bolger@egroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Non-Blushing Epoxy?
>
>
> Blushing is caused generally by humidity and tempeture factors and can be
> made much worse by applying a too thick coat of epoxy ...but as the amine
> will simply wipe of with a paper towel whats the problem?
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chuck Leinweber" <duckworks@...>
> To: <bolger@egroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, January 14, 2000 3:14 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Non-Blushing Epoxy?
>
>
> >
> > > I have used Raka, and it is fully capable of blushing.
> >
> > Gee, Chris, I must be doing something wrong;-) Seriously, though, is
> there
> > some factor that you can identify that determines whether or not a
> > particular batch ends up blushing or not? Or is it simply
> serendipitous?
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > FreeLotto.com is the only internet site to offer three free chances
> > a day to win $1,000,000.00. We've already had two $1,000,000.00
> > jackpot winners and thousands of other cash prizes. You could be
> > a $1,000,000.00 winner tonight!
> >http://click.egroups.com/1/445/5/_/3457/_/947874225/
> >
> > -- Create a poll/survey for your group!
> > --http://www.egroups.com/vote?listname=bolger&m=1
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> FreeLotto.com is the only internet site to offer three free
> chances a day to win $1,000,000.00. We've already had two
> $1,000,000.00 jackpot winners and thousands of other cash
> prizes. You could be a $1,000,000.00 winner tonight!
>http://click.egroups.com/1/445/5/_/3457/_/947875874/
>
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On Fri, 14 Jan 2000, Chuck Leinweber wrote:
Perhaps I waited longer than you? I don't know. Blush is affected by
temperature, humidity, and time, as well as the chemistry of the hardener.
I am not an expert on any of the above. But there is no question that I
got a beautifully greasy coating on my Raka epoxy, and reliably so. I
worked in my dry basement, which is relatively cool, as houses go, but
positively balmy, as compared to basements built before 1970. It's
heated, and with real windows and a glass patio door (out of which I have
moved several boats).
So, in sum, I suspect that you are the fortunate son, not Al Gore. :-)
-Chris
Chris Crandallcrandall@...(785) 864-4131
Department of Psychology University of Kansas Lawrence, KS 66045
I have data convincingly disconfirming the Duhem-Quine hypothesis.
> Gee, Chris, I must be doing something wrong;-) Seriously, though, isWell, serendipity is felicitous, and I was not so happy at the time.
> there some factor that you can identify that determines whether or not
> a particular batch ends up blushing or not? Or is it simply
> serendipitous?
Perhaps I waited longer than you? I don't know. Blush is affected by
temperature, humidity, and time, as well as the chemistry of the hardener.
I am not an expert on any of the above. But there is no question that I
got a beautifully greasy coating on my Raka epoxy, and reliably so. I
worked in my dry basement, which is relatively cool, as houses go, but
positively balmy, as compared to basements built before 1970. It's
heated, and with real windows and a glass patio door (out of which I have
moved several boats).
So, in sum, I suspect that you are the fortunate son, not Al Gore. :-)
-Chris
Chris Crandallcrandall@...(785) 864-4131
Department of Psychology University of Kansas Lawrence, KS 66045
I have data convincingly disconfirming the Duhem-Quine hypothesis.
> I have used Raka, and it is fully capable of blushing.Gee, Chris, I must be doing something wrong;-) Seriously, though, is there
some factor that you can identify that determines whether or not a
particular batch ends up blushing or not? Or is it simply serendipitous?
Blushing is caused generally by humidity and tempeture factors and can be
made much worse by applying a too thick coat of epoxy ...but as the amine
will simply wipe of with a paper towel whats the problem?
made much worse by applying a too thick coat of epoxy ...but as the amine
will simply wipe of with a paper towel whats the problem?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Leinweber" <duckworks@...>
To: <bolger@egroups.com>
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2000 3:14 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Non-Blushing Epoxy?
>
> > I have used Raka, and it is fully capable of blushing.
>
> Gee, Chris, I must be doing something wrong;-) Seriously, though, is
there
> some factor that you can identify that determines whether or not a
> particular batch ends up blushing or not? Or is it simply serendipitous?
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> FreeLotto.com is the only internet site to offer three free chances
> a day to win $1,000,000.00. We've already had two $1,000,000.00
> jackpot winners and thousands of other cash prizes. You could be
> a $1,000,000.00 winner tonight!
>http://click.egroups.com/1/445/5/_/3457/_/947874225/
>
> -- Create a poll/survey for your group!
> --http://www.egroups.com/vote?listname=bolger&m=1
>
>
>
On Thu, 13 Jan 2000, Chuck Leinweber wrote:
Chris Crandallcrandall@...(785) 864-4131
Department of Psychology University of Kansas Lawrence, KS 66045
I have data convincingly disconfirming the Duhem-Quine hypothesis.
> I have used West and System Three and both blushed - more recently I usedI have used Raka, and it is fully capable of blushing.
> Raka with absolutely no blush, and it is cheaper too!
> Chuck Leinweber Duckworks Magazinehttp://www.hilconet.com/~dworksmg
Chris Crandallcrandall@...(785) 864-4131
Department of Psychology University of Kansas Lawrence, KS 66045
I have data convincingly disconfirming the Duhem-Quine hypothesis.
List,
Yes this is a "burb" of Houston, actually it is about 55 miles south of me.
I will check into them!
Tim - other Tim (North of) Houston
At 08:24 PM 01/13/2000 -0500, you wrote:
Yes this is a "burb" of Houston, actually it is about 55 miles south of me.
I will check into them!
Tim - other Tim (North of) Houston
At 08:24 PM 01/13/2000 -0500, you wrote:
>Hey, found this on the web. Has anyone ever used this stuff? They claim
>non-blushing, linear cure and a host of other wonderful properties.
>Non-blushing would be nice. They're apparently located in a burb of
>Houston. Any of you Texas boatbuilders want to try something new and report
>back to the group?
>
>
>http://www.epoxyproducts.com/marine.html
>
>Robert & Amy Lundy
>St. Petersburg, fla.
>robert@...
>amy@...
>
>
I have used West and System Three and both blushed - more recently I used
Raka with absolutely no blush, and it is cheaper too!
Chuck Leinweber
Duckworks Magazine
http://www.hilconet.com/~dworksmg
Raka with absolutely no blush, and it is cheaper too!
Chuck Leinweber
Duckworks Magazine
http://www.hilconet.com/~dworksmg
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert N. Lundy <robert@...>
To: A-Bolger List <bolger@egroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2000 5:24 PM
Subject: [bolger] Non-Blushing Epoxy?
> Hey, found this on the web. Has anyone ever used this stuff? They claim
> non-blushing, linear cure and a host of other wonderful properties.
> Non-blushing would be nice. They're apparently located in a burb of
> Houston. Any of you Texas boatbuilders want to try something new and
report
> back to the group?
>
>
>http://www.epoxyproducts.com/marine.html
>
> Robert & Amy Lundy
> St. Petersburg, fla.
>robert@...
>amy@...
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> FreeLotto.com is the only internet site to offer three free chances
> a day to win $1,000,000.00. We've already had two $1,000,000.00
> jackpot winners and thousands of other cash prizes. You could be
> a $1,000,000.00 winner tonight!
>http://click.egroups.com/1/445/5/_/3457/_/947813059/
>
> -- Easily schedule meetings and events using the group calendar!
> --http://www.egroups.com/cal?listname=bolger&m=1
>
>
Hey, found this on the web. Has anyone ever used this stuff? They claim
non-blushing, linear cure and a host of other wonderful properties.
Non-blushing would be nice. They're apparently located in a burb of
Houston. Any of you Texas boatbuilders want to try something new and report
back to the group?
http://www.epoxyproducts.com/marine.html
Robert & Amy Lundy
St. Petersburg, fla.
robert@...
amy@...
non-blushing, linear cure and a host of other wonderful properties.
Non-blushing would be nice. They're apparently located in a burb of
Houston. Any of you Texas boatbuilders want to try something new and report
back to the group?
http://www.epoxyproducts.com/marine.html
Robert & Amy Lundy
St. Petersburg, fla.
robert@...
amy@...