[bolger] Re: Boat Work
> Phillip Lea wrote:
> > Will use latex paints - Kilz as primer, and Benjamin Moore 100% acrylic
> > latex house paint, with a little crushed limestone filler (thanks to
> > Chris Crandall).
>
On Fri, 14 Jan 2000, Richard wrote:
> Why filler in the paint, and how much?
It serves two good purposes. It bulks up the paint slightly, and it cuts
down the sheen from semi-gloss to flat.
Both purposes are to cover a less-than-perfect substrate, and make them
look better. It really works--really. And it is very cheap--I bought a
bag of crushed limestone about 8 years ago, and have used it on 4 boats,
and still have most of the bag left (and I even used some of it in the
garden as lime). The bag cost me, I forget, it was so little, maybe $6?
Chris Crandallcrandall@...(785) 864-4131
Department of Psychology University of Kansas Lawrence, KS 66045
I have data convincingly disconfirming the Duhem-Quine hypothesis.
Phillip:
I agree with most of what you say, but I would make two comments:
1) You owe it to yourself to try the pumps for measuring resin and hardener.
The ten bucks cost will change your life. They are so much handier and less
messy.
2) Southern yellow pine is a fine wood for some purposes. It is heavier
that Doug fir and not as rot resistant, and it tends to split worse that
mahogany. It is strong and inexpensive and it's easy to find clear pieces
mixed in with the construction grade dimension lumber.
Chuck Leinweber
Duckworks Magazine
http://www.hilconet.com/~dworksmg
I agree with most of what you say, but I would make two comments:
1) You owe it to yourself to try the pumps for measuring resin and hardener.
The ten bucks cost will change your life. They are so much handier and less
messy.
2) Southern yellow pine is a fine wood for some purposes. It is heavier
that Doug fir and not as rot resistant, and it tends to split worse that
mahogany. It is strong and inexpensive and it's easy to find clear pieces
mixed in with the construction grade dimension lumber.
Chuck Leinweber
Duckworks Magazine
http://www.hilconet.com/~dworksmg
----- Original Message -----
From: Phillip Lea <pakam@...>
To: <bolger@...>
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2000 9:44 AM
Subject: [bolger] Boat Work
> Nearing completion of the modified June Bug "Shoe String". Many other
> pressing household projects have extended its completion, such as
> rebuilding
> the staircase, other remodeling, painting the downstairs, building dorm
> furniture for a son, etc.
>
> This is my second boat. The first was a Bolger type-5 dory (all metric
> )
> built in 1975 with a friend, Justin Pipkorn of Thousand Oaks, CA. He
> is a
> meticulous builder. We made a pair of the dories from clear mahogany
> lumber, fir marine ply, decks and seats of mahogany ply, and oars from
> mast-grade spruce. See his latest elegant homebuilt boat (sorry
> non-Bolger) athttp://pages.prodigy.net/jpipkorn/.
>
> A couple of years ago I had purchased plans for Karl Stambaugh's
> Windward
> 17, but realized there would be too much cost of time and resources, and
> that the strongback would cause a loss of garage for possible auto
> repairs.
> I decided to build a June Bug from "The new Instant Boats", and
> modified it
> slightly to suit me. My goals were to reacquaint myself with
> boatbuilding,
> try epoxy, try modifying a design, and try some cheaper materials. I
> had
> already purchased (3) 2"x12"x24' douglas fir for the mast, keel and dead
> wood of the Windward 17 and decided to use that material.
>
> I have enjoyed all stages of the project but these things I won't do
> next time:
> Won't use construction grade lumber despite the admonition in "Building
> the
> new Instant Boats" to get materials from the lumber yard - too many
> invisible hair-line cracks, cracks not even at knots, that caused three
> gunwale failures. Luckily they failed while clamped and screwed, not
> after
> being epoxied. Maybe I misunderstood the book -- #1 yellow pine is
> also at
> the lumber yard.
> Won't wrap 3-inch glass tape over 1.5" x ¾" skid no matter how much the
> edges are rounded. Its too tight a bend and too much epoxy is wasted to
> cover the sides of the skid for no good reason.
> Won't use butt blocks - will use tape or cloth set where the threads run
> across the gap at 45 to 60 degrees. See Justin Pipkorn's fine solution
> for this.
>
> These worked well, and will do again:
> Will use "Superply", an inexpensive (~$20) fairly light weight
> compromise -
> if available.
> Will use System Three epoxy and the different formulations of hardener.
> Used "slow" in the heat of the Arkansas summer, and medium on warm
> winter
> days, and slow on cold winter days with a small propane heater - no real
> problems -- mixed hardeners as desired. And they have a great
> instruction booklet that was my only tutor.
> Will use System Three's method of little graduated waxed medicine
> measuring
> cups - very simple and cheap. I am accustomed to their products and the
> instructions that go with it. They make a nice package.
> Will use latex paints - Kilz as primer, and Benjamin Moore 100% acrylic
> latex house paint, with a little crushed limestone filler (thanks to
> Chris
> Crandall).
> Will make my own sail(s) - got a kit for a dacron, 67 sq. ft.,
> leg-o-mutton,
> with two sets of reef points for $109 from Sailrite.
> Will make my own oars (of yellow pine) - power planer make this fairly
> easy
> and gives a chance to shape wood to your heart's content.
> Will enjoy.
>
> Things I will try to do:
> Use #1 yellow pine which is abundant here.
> Use less epoxy.
> Build a bigger boat.
> Build a power boat -- Remember the previous post of the motor scow?
> Imagine
> it going into the creeks and backwaters of the lakes and rivers of the
> mid-west where little wind ever blows - where camping and fishing are
> fine
> towing a nice 14' skiff.
>
> Phil Lea
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
>
Phil,
Maybe I missed something, but what is the crushed lime in the acrylic for?
Chuck C.
Maybe I missed something, but what is the crushed lime in the acrylic for?
Chuck C.
Phillip Lea wrote:
> Will use latex paints - Kilz as primer, and Benjamin Moore 100% acrylicWhy filler in the paint, and how much?
> latex house paint, with a little crushed limestone filler (thanks to
> Chris
> Crandall).
Nearing completion of the modified June Bug "Shoe String". Many other
pressing household projects have extended its completion, such as
rebuilding
the staircase, other remodeling, painting the downstairs, building dorm
furniture for a son, etc.
This is my second boat. The first was a Bolger type-5 dory (all metric
)
built in 1975 with a friend, Justin Pipkorn of Thousand Oaks, CA. He
is a
meticulous builder. We made a pair of the dories from clear mahogany
lumber, fir marine ply, decks and seats of mahogany ply, and oars from
mast-grade spruce. See his latest elegant homebuilt boat (sorry
non-Bolger) athttp://pages.prodigy.net/jpipkorn/.
A couple of years ago I had purchased plans for Karl Stambaugh's
Windward
17, but realized there would be too much cost of time and resources, and
that the strongback would cause a loss of garage for possible auto
repairs.
I decided to build a June Bug from "The new Instant Boats", and
modified it
slightly to suit me. My goals were to reacquaint myself with
boatbuilding,
try epoxy, try modifying a design, and try some cheaper materials. I
had
already purchased (3) 2"x12"x24' douglas fir for the mast, keel and dead
wood of the Windward 17 and decided to use that material.
I have enjoyed all stages of the project but these things I won't do
next time:
Won't use construction grade lumber despite the admonition in "Building
the
new Instant Boats" to get materials from the lumber yard - too many
invisible hair-line cracks, cracks not even at knots, that caused three
gunwale failures. Luckily they failed while clamped and screwed, not
after
being epoxied. Maybe I misunderstood the book -- #1 yellow pine is
also at
the lumber yard.
Won't wrap 3-inch glass tape over 1.5" x ¾" skid no matter how much the
edges are rounded. Its too tight a bend and too much epoxy is wasted to
cover the sides of the skid for no good reason.
Won't use butt blocks - will use tape or cloth set where the threads run
across the gap at 45 to 60 degrees. See Justin Pipkorn's fine solution
for this.
These worked well, and will do again:
Will use "Superply", an inexpensive (~$20) fairly light weight
compromise -
if available.
Will use System Three epoxy and the different formulations of hardener.
Used "slow" in the heat of the Arkansas summer, and medium on warm
winter
days, and slow on cold winter days with a small propane heater - no real
problems -- mixed hardeners as desired. And they have a great
instruction booklet that was my only tutor.
Will use System Three's method of little graduated waxed medicine
measuring
cups - very simple and cheap. I am accustomed to their products and the
instructions that go with it. They make a nice package.
Will use latex paints - Kilz as primer, and Benjamin Moore 100% acrylic
latex house paint, with a little crushed limestone filler (thanks to
Chris
Crandall).
Will make my own sail(s) - got a kit for a dacron, 67 sq. ft.,
leg-o-mutton,
with two sets of reef points for $109 from Sailrite.
Will make my own oars (of yellow pine) - power planer make this fairly
easy
and gives a chance to shape wood to your heart's content.
Will enjoy.
Things I will try to do:
Use #1 yellow pine which is abundant here.
Use less epoxy.
Build a bigger boat.
Build a power boat -- Remember the previous post of the motor scow?
Imagine
it going into the creeks and backwaters of the lakes and rivers of the
mid-west where little wind ever blows - where camping and fishing are
fine
towing a nice 14' skiff.
Phil Lea
pressing household projects have extended its completion, such as
rebuilding
the staircase, other remodeling, painting the downstairs, building dorm
furniture for a son, etc.
This is my second boat. The first was a Bolger type-5 dory (all metric
)
built in 1975 with a friend, Justin Pipkorn of Thousand Oaks, CA. He
is a
meticulous builder. We made a pair of the dories from clear mahogany
lumber, fir marine ply, decks and seats of mahogany ply, and oars from
mast-grade spruce. See his latest elegant homebuilt boat (sorry
non-Bolger) athttp://pages.prodigy.net/jpipkorn/.
A couple of years ago I had purchased plans for Karl Stambaugh's
Windward
17, but realized there would be too much cost of time and resources, and
that the strongback would cause a loss of garage for possible auto
repairs.
I decided to build a June Bug from "The new Instant Boats", and
modified it
slightly to suit me. My goals were to reacquaint myself with
boatbuilding,
try epoxy, try modifying a design, and try some cheaper materials. I
had
already purchased (3) 2"x12"x24' douglas fir for the mast, keel and dead
wood of the Windward 17 and decided to use that material.
I have enjoyed all stages of the project but these things I won't do
next time:
Won't use construction grade lumber despite the admonition in "Building
the
new Instant Boats" to get materials from the lumber yard - too many
invisible hair-line cracks, cracks not even at knots, that caused three
gunwale failures. Luckily they failed while clamped and screwed, not
after
being epoxied. Maybe I misunderstood the book -- #1 yellow pine is
also at
the lumber yard.
Won't wrap 3-inch glass tape over 1.5" x ¾" skid no matter how much the
edges are rounded. Its too tight a bend and too much epoxy is wasted to
cover the sides of the skid for no good reason.
Won't use butt blocks - will use tape or cloth set where the threads run
across the gap at 45 to 60 degrees. See Justin Pipkorn's fine solution
for this.
These worked well, and will do again:
Will use "Superply", an inexpensive (~$20) fairly light weight
compromise -
if available.
Will use System Three epoxy and the different formulations of hardener.
Used "slow" in the heat of the Arkansas summer, and medium on warm
winter
days, and slow on cold winter days with a small propane heater - no real
problems -- mixed hardeners as desired. And they have a great
instruction booklet that was my only tutor.
Will use System Three's method of little graduated waxed medicine
measuring
cups - very simple and cheap. I am accustomed to their products and the
instructions that go with it. They make a nice package.
Will use latex paints - Kilz as primer, and Benjamin Moore 100% acrylic
latex house paint, with a little crushed limestone filler (thanks to
Chris
Crandall).
Will make my own sail(s) - got a kit for a dacron, 67 sq. ft.,
leg-o-mutton,
with two sets of reef points for $109 from Sailrite.
Will make my own oars (of yellow pine) - power planer make this fairly
easy
and gives a chance to shape wood to your heart's content.
Will enjoy.
Things I will try to do:
Use #1 yellow pine which is abundant here.
Use less epoxy.
Build a bigger boat.
Build a power boat -- Remember the previous post of the motor scow?
Imagine
it going into the creeks and backwaters of the lakes and rivers of the
mid-west where little wind ever blows - where camping and fishing are
fine
towing a nice 14' skiff.
Phil Lea