Re: [bolger] plywood edges (was storing panels)
Vince
I have never seen a dakota photo or drawing
can you direct me to one?
thanks
ken
----------
I have never seen a dakota photo or drawing
can you direct me to one?
thanks
ken
----------
>From: Vince and Mary Ann Chew <vachew@...>
>To: Bolger Group <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: Re: [bolger] plywood edges (was storing panels)
>Date: Wed, Feb 6, 2002, 12:06 PM
>
> Jeff,
>
> The Dakota has a flat ceiling of 3/8" MDO. Above that are cambered
> transverse beams about every 1/2 meter. There are also 4 rows of
> fore-and-aft blocking between the beams plus a 1" x 6" centerline
> fastening board notched into the tops of the beams. The 3/8" MDO cabin
> roof sheets will be spliced into two long panels before placing them on
> the boat. The top will be glassed with 9oz. cloth AFTER installation
> (because I will have to use screws to pull the panels tight to the
> cambered beams). There is a space (about 5" at the centerline) between
> the ceiling and the roof which I will fill with foam after I finish
> wiring since some wires will be in this space. The foam is for thermal
> insulation as well as for flotation. (Obviously any flotation in the
> roof is for a pretty desperate, last resort, situation).
>
> I know that not only will a dinghy be carried on the roof, but likely
> boathooks, push poles, fenders, lines, etc. will find their way onto the
> roof now and then. When the boat is in locks or at some high docks, it
> may be convenient to handle lines from on the cabin top. The cabin top
> of Dakota, as I am building it, will be strong! I don't want to have any
> concerns about stepping down onto it from a high dock or the side of a lock.
>
>
>
> Vince
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Jeff,
The Dakota has a flat ceiling of 3/8" MDO. Above that are cambered
transverse beams about every 1/2 meter. There are also 4 rows of
fore-and-aft blocking between the beams plus a 1" x 6" centerline
fastening board notched into the tops of the beams. The 3/8" MDO cabin
roof sheets will be spliced into two long panels before placing them on
the boat. The top will be glassed with 9oz. cloth AFTER installation
(because I will have to use screws to pull the panels tight to the
cambered beams). There is a space (about 5" at the centerline) between
the ceiling and the roof which I will fill with foam after I finish
wiring since some wires will be in this space. The foam is for thermal
insulation as well as for flotation. (Obviously any flotation in the
roof is for a pretty desperate, last resort, situation).
I know that not only will a dinghy be carried on the roof, but likely
boathooks, push poles, fenders, lines, etc. will find their way onto the
roof now and then. When the boat is in locks or at some high docks, it
may be convenient to handle lines from on the cabin top. The cabin top
of Dakota, as I am building it, will be strong! I don't want to have any
concerns about stepping down onto it from a high dock or the side of a lock.
Vince
The Dakota has a flat ceiling of 3/8" MDO. Above that are cambered
transverse beams about every 1/2 meter. There are also 4 rows of
fore-and-aft blocking between the beams plus a 1" x 6" centerline
fastening board notched into the tops of the beams. The 3/8" MDO cabin
roof sheets will be spliced into two long panels before placing them on
the boat. The top will be glassed with 9oz. cloth AFTER installation
(because I will have to use screws to pull the panels tight to the
cambered beams). There is a space (about 5" at the centerline) between
the ceiling and the roof which I will fill with foam after I finish
wiring since some wires will be in this space. The foam is for thermal
insulation as well as for flotation. (Obviously any flotation in the
roof is for a pretty desperate, last resort, situation).
I know that not only will a dinghy be carried on the roof, but likely
boathooks, push poles, fenders, lines, etc. will find their way onto the
roof now and then. When the boat is in locks or at some high docks, it
may be convenient to handle lines from on the cabin top. The cabin top
of Dakota, as I am building it, will be strong! I don't want to have any
concerns about stepping down onto it from a high dock or the side of a lock.
Vince
The roof panel has a seam down the full length and will be taped as suggested.
The short edges on the roof and upper topsides will be scarphed to get a continuous panel without seams so I won't have as much finish work.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
The short edges on the roof and upper topsides will be scarphed to get a continuous panel without seams so I won't have as much finish work.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I do plan on glassing anything that will be walked upon or anyplace needing abrasion protection.
I'm even tempted to do it on the hull sides since it mimics the old way of doping up cotton canvas to water proof years ago. Saves on finishing work too. I'd just thin the last coat with alcohol for the hull sides. It wouldn't be as deep as what to top sides would have for no-slip texture but still have the cloth / canvas texture look.
We'll see, depends on how well the MDO finishes out.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>I'm going to do something I saw on a Frolic2Grin....I got that idea from several books and it really works great. I'll use it on the Wyo as well.
>at a messabout in Texas
>once, and glass the deck walking areas, but
>go easy on the epoxy so
>they have a nice no-slip texture...
I'm even tempted to do it on the hull sides since it mimics the old way of doping up cotton canvas to water proof years ago. Saves on finishing work too. I'd just thin the last coat with alcohol for the hull sides. It wouldn't be as deep as what to top sides would have for no-slip texture but still have the cloth / canvas texture look.
We'll see, depends on how well the MDO finishes out.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Jeff:
On the roof (and cabin sides, for that matter) I would tape the seams at least. The panels will try to move a bit, and will open a crack up to let water in. Other than that, the MDO should be fine on the roof.
Chuck
This is much as I had planned for using MDO on my Wyo. Glassing hull bottom and sides up to the rub rail.
My question for Vince: Why is is prudent to glass the upper surfaces and the roof, do you think the MDO will check?
I had just planned on coating with epoxy and painting, no epoxy on the inside at all, just good primer and paint. ( Except in areas I would suspect water could collect.)
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
On the roof (and cabin sides, for that matter) I would tape the seams at least. The panels will try to move a bit, and will open a crack up to let water in. Other than that, the MDO should be fine on the roof.
Chuck
This is much as I had planned for using MDO on my Wyo. Glassing hull bottom and sides up to the rub rail.
My question for Vince: Why is is prudent to glass the upper surfaces and the roof, do you think the MDO will check?
I had just planned on coating with epoxy and painting, no epoxy on the inside at all, just good primer and paint. ( Except in areas I would suspect water could collect.)
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
You might consider glassing the LOWER surfaces of the roof if you
plan on walking on it. I'm using MDO as well. I plan on putting a
layer of light glass on any exposed ply edges and where water might
collect. Maybe on high wear surfaces too, but just painting the rest.
I'm going to do something I saw on a Frolic2 at a messabout in Texas
once, and glass the deck walking areas, but go easy on the epoxy so
they have a nice no-slip texture...
plan on walking on it. I'm using MDO as well. I plan on putting a
layer of light glass on any exposed ply edges and where water might
collect. Maybe on high wear surfaces too, but just painting the rest.
I'm going to do something I saw on a Frolic2 at a messabout in Texas
once, and glass the deck walking areas, but go easy on the epoxy so
they have a nice no-slip texture...
--- In bolger@y..., "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> This is much as I had planned for using MDO on my Wyo. Glassing
hull bottom and sides up to the rub rail.
>
> My question for Vince: Why is is prudent to glass the upper
surfaces and the roof, do you think the MDO will check?
>
> I had just planned on coating with epoxy and painting, no epoxy on
the inside at all, just good primer and paint. ( Except in areas I
would suspect water could collect.)
>
> Jeff
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Perfect logic. The Wyo roof is not designed nor recommended to walk on. As Mr. Bolger writes, "The roof is a no walk zone, perfect for solar panels." He recommends mounting hard wood runners with slides to lift a dinghy to the roof top. Don't ask me what he means by that but I'm sure such a thing could be figured out easy enough. From the cockpit, the roof is about 5' tall so it would be a lot like lifting to a car roof rack.
I plan on using the aft cabin roof to hold my dinghy when I'm not towing. In a real blow, the cockpit is big enough for it to sit on the floor lashed down to reduce windage.
Jeff
I plan on using the aft cabin roof to hold my dinghy when I'm not towing. In a real blow, the cockpit is big enough for it to sit on the floor lashed down to reduce windage.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: Vince and Mary Ann Chew
To: Bolger Group
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] plywood edges (was storing panels)
Jeff,
No, the reason I will glass the top is because I plan to carry a dinghy
on top. I expect there will be occasions to be walking around on the
cabin top. So the main concern is abrasion protection.
Vince
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Jeff,
No, the reason I will glass the top is because I plan to carry a dinghy
on top. I expect there will be occasions to be walking around on the
cabin top. So the main concern is abrasion protection.
Vince
No, the reason I will glass the top is because I plan to carry a dinghy
on top. I expect there will be occasions to be walking around on the
cabin top. So the main concern is abrasion protection.
Vince
This is much as I had planned for using MDO on my Wyo. Glassing hull bottom and sides up to the rub rail.
My question for Vince: Why is is prudent to glass the upper surfaces and the roof, do you think the MDO will check?
I had just planned on coating with epoxy and painting, no epoxy on the inside at all, just good primer and paint. ( Except in areas I would suspect water could collect.)
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
My question for Vince: Why is is prudent to glass the upper surfaces and the roof, do you think the MDO will check?
I had just planned on coating with epoxy and painting, no epoxy on the inside at all, just good primer and paint. ( Except in areas I would suspect water could collect.)
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Tim,
I only glassed the bottom and topsides panels. I will also glass the
cabin roof top after it is installed. I don't plan to glass the cabin
sides. After all, MDO is manufactured for outdoor use with just paint. I
will coat the cabin sides with epoxy then paint, but no glass.
You can't fold the glass around a sharp edge and get satisfactory
results. I would just seal the edges with epoxy. As I recall, the
windows and doors on Topaz are framed inside and out anyway, are they
not? If so, the plywood edges will not be exposed.
I was fortunate to get a ride in Brad Raby's Topaz. It is a terrific
design!
Vince
I only glassed the bottom and topsides panels. I will also glass the
cabin roof top after it is installed. I don't plan to glass the cabin
sides. After all, MDO is manufactured for outdoor use with just paint. I
will coat the cabin sides with epoxy then paint, but no glass.
You can't fold the glass around a sharp edge and get satisfactory
results. I would just seal the edges with epoxy. As I recall, the
windows and doors on Topaz are framed inside and out anyway, are they
not? If so, the plywood edges will not be exposed.
I was fortunate to get a ride in Brad Raby's Topaz. It is a terrific
design!
Vince