Re: Baltic Birch
Bob,
A quick search shows the 5 x 5 panels are actually more
common, and now I see that is what Todd had found.
The Canadian has better durability.
There is this west coast firm that lists Finland Birch
marine in 4 x 8's
http://www.macbeath.com/plywood.html
I wrote to ask them where it really does originate. Will let
you know.
Mark
> The reason FinnPly has been successful for concrete formsThis was most interesting. I love to have my assumptions overturned!
> is that it can be used over and over again. It is not considered a
> "throwaway" product.
A quick search shows the 5 x 5 panels are actually more
common, and now I see that is what Todd had found.
The Canadian has better durability.
There is this west coast firm that lists Finland Birch
marine in 4 x 8's
http://www.macbeath.com/plywood.html
I wrote to ask them where it really does originate. Will let
you know.
Mark
Birch ply is a real great stuff to work with, I build my Seabird with
it, 1/2'' ply.
The sheets are almost 3m x 1,5m (~10' x ~5'). The glue is AW 100, means:
water resistent, resorcinol glue, the red stuff. I've never seen other
glue for this sort of plywood. Birch is a hard wood an realy havy. One
sheet of 3m x 1,5m x 1/2''weights 42kg.
The stuff is very strong and mostly of a very good quality, no voids,
all layers (9 for 1/2'') are birch. The drawback is durability in wet
conditions. The way to go is to sheet it with glas on the outside and
give it maybe 4 or 5 coats of epoxy. Inside 3 coats of epoxy and without
glas will do the job.
The surfaces are in different quality. A-A: both sides are without
knots, A-B (what I use) is with small knots on the B-side.
In my experience it works good with epoxy, I've never had problems.
Here in germany birch ply it's not cheap. I've payed 15 Euro/m². Marine
ply is at 40 Euro/m² and more.
Happy Boatbuilding
Stefan
it, 1/2'' ply.
The sheets are almost 3m x 1,5m (~10' x ~5'). The glue is AW 100, means:
water resistent, resorcinol glue, the red stuff. I've never seen other
glue for this sort of plywood. Birch is a hard wood an realy havy. One
sheet of 3m x 1,5m x 1/2''weights 42kg.
The stuff is very strong and mostly of a very good quality, no voids,
all layers (9 for 1/2'') are birch. The drawback is durability in wet
conditions. The way to go is to sheet it with glas on the outside and
give it maybe 4 or 5 coats of epoxy. Inside 3 coats of epoxy and without
glas will do the job.
The surfaces are in different quality. A-A: both sides are without
knots, A-B (what I use) is with small knots on the B-side.
In my experience it works good with epoxy, I've never had problems.
Here in germany birch ply it's not cheap. I've payed 15 Euro/m². Marine
ply is at 40 Euro/m² and more.
Happy Boatbuilding
Stefan
> Subject: Re: Oak ,whiteoak, redoak?
>
> Baltic Birch also known as "Finnply" has been used for concrete forms
> which says something for the glues, surface and general durability of
> the product. A problem is that it is generally, I believe, only
> available in 5'x5' panels. Given that almost all of the materials that
> have been proposed for boat construction on this site are not rot
> resistent Baltic Birch is a reasonable alternative if you can get by
> the 5x5 size. It means more butt joints or scarfs but the material is
> Subject: Re: Oak ,whiteoak, redoak?
>
> Bob,
>
> In 1/2 or 3/4 inch, I've seen longer sheets than that here
> in Portland, OR ( Mr. Plywood, I think ), though they might
> have been Canadian. HD in my neighborhood often has 1/8th"
> 4x 8 's of birch. On the west coast, it sometimes comes as 4
> x 8 marine.
>
> Baltic, Nordic, Finnish; the marketeers are imprecise. At
> the discount stores, it's often cheap, and looking fabulous.
> Interior / exterior ? best to ask. Who wants to glue their
> boat wth blood?
>
> Said to glue okay ( no resins or oils ), I looked up once
> the rot resistance of Finnish birch. It was truly at the
> bottom of the list. Doesn't have to last long for a concrete form.
>
> There's a lot in the archives keyword: birch. For the
> scientific detail I found comparing it to other common
> species see
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/message/4990
>
> Mark
>
> rdchamberland wrote:
> >
> > Baltic Birch also known as "Finnply" has been used for
> > concrete forms
> > which says something for the glues, surface and general
> > durability of
> > the product. A problem is that it is generally, I believe,
> > only
> > available in 5'x5' panels. Given that almost all of the
> > materials that
> > have been proposed for boat construction on this site are
> > not rot
> > resistent Baltic Birch is a reasonable alternative if you
> > can get by
> > the 5x5 size. It means more butt joints or scarfs but the
> > material is
> > pretty nice. From what I have noted some Baltic Birch is
> > in the
> > expensive range though around here Baltic Birch at 3/8" is
> > around
> > $1.55 a square foot compared with Douglasfir plywood
> > (Marine) at
> > $1.75. My guess is that birch is no more vulnerable than
> > most of the
> > other woods that are available.
> > Bob Chamberland
> >
> > In bolger@y..., Sakari Aaltonen <sakari@a...> wrote:
> > > Baltic birch plywood may look pretty, but birch is
> > considered
> > > rather rot-prone and is generally not used for
> > boatbuilding.
> > > I did build a boat last year with it, but that's just
> > because
> > > it's easy to get and the surface is very smooth. The
> > surface
> > > of the other easy-to-get plywood, fir, is terrible. I
> > have no
> > > idea whether the boat will last long. But if it doesn't,
> > I'll
> > > build another...:-)
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
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At Ganhal Lumber its 15.99 for a 5x5 sheet. I'm using it for the
decks on my dinghy.
What types of hardwood and sheetply are the best rot resistent best
strength and the best looking or easiest to finsh ?
I have a 4x4 left over sheet of 3/8 pine (the douglas fir around here
is worse than the pine in the way of voids, cracks and looks) and a
sheet5x5 of baltic birch just handling the the two pieces the birch
seems to be alot stiffer , stronger, and there are no voids to be
seen around the edges unlike the pine very flimsy cracks voids split
marks and thats what I found as a good sheet.
Seems either way you still have to saturate both in epoxy.
Todd
decks on my dinghy.
What types of hardwood and sheetply are the best rot resistent best
strength and the best looking or easiest to finsh ?
I have a 4x4 left over sheet of 3/8 pine (the douglas fir around here
is worse than the pine in the way of voids, cracks and looks) and a
sheet5x5 of baltic birch just handling the the two pieces the birch
seems to be alot stiffer , stronger, and there are no voids to be
seen around the edges unlike the pine very flimsy cracks voids split
marks and thats what I found as a good sheet.
Seems either way you still have to saturate both in epoxy.
Todd
--- In bolger@y..., "rdchamberland" <cha62759@t...> wrote:
> Baltic Birch also known as "Finnply" has been used for concrete
forms
> which says something for the glues, surface and general durability
of
> the product. A problem is that it is generally, I believe, only
> available in 5'x5' panels. Given that almost all of the materials
that
> have been proposed for boat construction on this site are not rot
> resistent Baltic Birch is a reasonable alternative if you can get by
> the 5x5 size. It means more butt joints or scarfs but the material
is
> pretty nice. From what I have noted some Baltic Birch is in the
> expensive range though around here Baltic Birch at 3/8" is around
> $1.55 a square foot compared with Douglasfir plywood (Marine) at
> $1.75. My guess is that birch is no more vulnerable than most of the
> other woods that are available.
> Bob Chamberland
>
> In bolger@y..., Sakari Aaltonen <sakari@a...> wrote:
> > Baltic birch plywood may look pretty, but birch is considered
> > rather rot-prone and is generally not used for boatbuilding.
> > I did build a boat last year with it, but that's just because
> > it's easy to get and the surface is very smooth. The surface
> > of the other easy-to-get plywood, fir, is terrible. I have no
> > idea whether the boat will last long. But if it doesn't, I'll
> > build another...:-)
> >
> >
I've just done a quick search and have found a lot of things that are
constructed of Baltic Birch but the only boat was a kayak.
It is also apparent that exterior glues are a special order item and
that there are multiple grades so I guess it's "buyer beware" as in so
much of supplies and suppliers.
Bob
constructed of Baltic Birch but the only boat was a kayak.
It is also apparent that exterior glues are a special order item and
that there are multiple grades so I guess it's "buyer beware" as in so
much of supplies and suppliers.
Bob
Mark,
I have a house full of birch ply that I have used to build cabinets.
It is all from Canada. I think any Birch ply you might find in 4x8
sizes is from Canada these days. Also I don't think you are going to
find Baltic Birch in the discount houses.
The reason FinnPly has been successful for concrete forms is that it
can be used over and over again. It is not considered a "throwaway"
product.
Certainly it's worth running some destruction tests.
In any case I would only consider it where epoxy encapsulation is the
norm. It would be beautiful stuff for boat interiors.
Bob
I have a house full of birch ply that I have used to build cabinets.
It is all from Canada. I think any Birch ply you might find in 4x8
sizes is from Canada these days. Also I don't think you are going to
find Baltic Birch in the discount houses.
The reason FinnPly has been successful for concrete forms is that it
can be used over and over again. It is not considered a "throwaway"
product.
Certainly it's worth running some destruction tests.
In any case I would only consider it where epoxy encapsulation is the
norm. It would be beautiful stuff for boat interiors.
Bob
> Bob,
>
> In 1/2 or 3/4 inch, I've seen longer sheets than that here
> in Portland, OR ( Mr. Plywood, I think ), though they might
> have been Canadian. HD in my neighborhood often has 1/8th"
> 4x 8 's of birch. On the west coast, it sometimes comes as 4
> x 8 marine.
>
> Baltic, Nordic, Finnish; the marketeers are imprecise. At
> the discount stores, it's often cheap, and looking fabulous.
> Interior / exterior ? best to ask. Who wants to glue their
> boat wth blood?
>
> Said to glue okay ( no resins or oils ), I looked up once
> the rot resistance of Finnish birch. It was truly at the
> bottom of the list. Doesn't have to last long for a concrete form.
>
> There's a lot in the archives keyword: birch. For the
> scientific detail I found comparing it to other common
> species see
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/message/4990
>
> Mark
>
Bob,
In 1/2 or 3/4 inch, I've seen longer sheets than that here
in Portland, OR ( Mr. Plywood, I think ), though they might
have been Canadian. HD in my neighborhood often has 1/8th"
4x 8 's of birch. On the west coast, it sometimes comes as 4
x 8 marine.
Baltic, Nordic, Finnish; the marketeers are imprecise. At
the discount stores, it's often cheap, and looking fabulous.
Interior / exterior ? best to ask. Who wants to glue their
boat wth blood?
Said to glue okay ( no resins or oils ), I looked up once
the rot resistance of Finnish birch. It was truly at the
bottom of the list. Doesn't have to last long for a concrete form.
There's a lot in the archives keyword: birch. For the
scientific detail I found comparing it to other common
species see
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/message/4990
Mark
rdchamberland wrote:
In 1/2 or 3/4 inch, I've seen longer sheets than that here
in Portland, OR ( Mr. Plywood, I think ), though they might
have been Canadian. HD in my neighborhood often has 1/8th"
4x 8 's of birch. On the west coast, it sometimes comes as 4
x 8 marine.
Baltic, Nordic, Finnish; the marketeers are imprecise. At
the discount stores, it's often cheap, and looking fabulous.
Interior / exterior ? best to ask. Who wants to glue their
boat wth blood?
Said to glue okay ( no resins or oils ), I looked up once
the rot resistance of Finnish birch. It was truly at the
bottom of the list. Doesn't have to last long for a concrete form.
There's a lot in the archives keyword: birch. For the
scientific detail I found comparing it to other common
species see
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/message/4990
Mark
rdchamberland wrote:
>
> Baltic Birch also known as "Finnply" has been used for
> concrete forms
> which says something for the glues, surface and general
> durability of
> the product. A problem is that it is generally, I believe,
> only
> available in 5'x5' panels. Given that almost all of the
> materials that
> have been proposed for boat construction on this site are
> not rot
> resistent Baltic Birch is a reasonable alternative if you
> can get by
> the 5x5 size. It means more butt joints or scarfs but the
> material is
> pretty nice. From what I have noted some Baltic Birch is
> in the
> expensive range though around here Baltic Birch at 3/8" is
> around
> $1.55 a square foot compared with Douglasfir plywood
> (Marine) at
> $1.75. My guess is that birch is no more vulnerable than
> most of the
> other woods that are available.
> Bob Chamberland
>
> In bolger@y..., Sakari Aaltonen <sakari@a...> wrote:
> > Baltic birch plywood may look pretty, but birch is
> considered
> > rather rot-prone and is generally not used for
> boatbuilding.
> > I did build a boat last year with it, but that's just
> because
> > it's easy to get and the surface is very smooth. The
> surface
> > of the other easy-to-get plywood, fir, is terrible. I
> have no
> > idea whether the boat will last long. But if it doesn't,
> I'll
> > build another...:-)
> >
> >
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging
> dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and
> punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip
> all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms
> of Service.
Baltic Birch also known as "Finnply" has been used for concrete forms
which says something for the glues, surface and general durability of
the product. A problem is that it is generally, I believe, only
available in 5'x5' panels. Given that almost all of the materials that
have been proposed for boat construction on this site are not rot
resistent Baltic Birch is a reasonable alternative if you can get by
the 5x5 size. It means more butt joints or scarfs but the material is
pretty nice. From what I have noted some Baltic Birch is in the
expensive range though around here Baltic Birch at 3/8" is around
$1.55 a square foot compared with Douglasfir plywood (Marine) at
$1.75. My guess is that birch is no more vulnerable than most of the
other woods that are available.
Bob Chamberland
In bolger@y..., Sakari Aaltonen <sakari@a...> wrote:
which says something for the glues, surface and general durability of
the product. A problem is that it is generally, I believe, only
available in 5'x5' panels. Given that almost all of the materials that
have been proposed for boat construction on this site are not rot
resistent Baltic Birch is a reasonable alternative if you can get by
the 5x5 size. It means more butt joints or scarfs but the material is
pretty nice. From what I have noted some Baltic Birch is in the
expensive range though around here Baltic Birch at 3/8" is around
$1.55 a square foot compared with Douglasfir plywood (Marine) at
$1.75. My guess is that birch is no more vulnerable than most of the
other woods that are available.
Bob Chamberland
In bolger@y..., Sakari Aaltonen <sakari@a...> wrote:
> Baltic birch plywood may look pretty, but birch is considered
> rather rot-prone and is generally not used for boatbuilding.
> I did build a boat last year with it, but that's just because
> it's easy to get and the surface is very smooth. The surface
> of the other easy-to-get plywood, fir, is terrible. I have no
> idea whether the boat will last long. But if it doesn't, I'll
> build another...:-)
>
>
Baltic birch plywood may look pretty, but birch is considered
rather rot-prone and is generally not used for boatbuilding.
I did build a boat last year with it, but that's just because
it's easy to get and the surface is very smooth. The surface
of the other easy-to-get plywood, fir, is terrible. I have no
idea whether the boat will last long. But if it doesn't, I'll
build another...:-)
Also: birch plywood is *heavy*, 50% more than okume, say.
But if you only intend to use it for decks, I'd say go for it.
By the way, if we are talking about the same plywood, it should
have 7 plies, not 6. 3/8" (9mm) has 7, 1/4" (6.5mm) has 5, 1/2"
(12mm) has 9... You get the idea.
Sakari Aaltonen
rather rot-prone and is generally not used for boatbuilding.
I did build a boat last year with it, but that's just because
it's easy to get and the surface is very smooth. The surface
of the other easy-to-get plywood, fir, is terrible. I have no
idea whether the boat will last long. But if it doesn't, I'll
build another...:-)
Also: birch plywood is *heavy*, 50% more than okume, say.
But if you only intend to use it for decks, I'd say go for it.
By the way, if we are talking about the same plywood, it should
have 7 plies, not 6. 3/8" (9mm) has 7, 1/4" (6.5mm) has 5, 1/2"
(12mm) has 9... You get the idea.
Sakari Aaltonen
> OoPS sorry it is baltic birch not cypress . It did have 6plys I
> have never seen 3/8 plywood with more than 4ply . That is was cought
> my attention. I thought it would look nice clear coated and used for
> the decks of my mayfly.
>
>
> Todd
OoPS sorry it is baltic birch not cypress . It did have 6plys I
have never seen 3/8 plywood with more than 4ply . That is was cought
my attention. I thought it would look nice clear coated and used for
the decks of my mayfly.
Todd
have never seen 3/8 plywood with more than 4ply . That is was cought
my attention. I thought it would look nice clear coated and used for
the decks of my mayfly.
Todd
--- In bolger@y..., Sakari Aaltonen <sakari@a...> wrote:
> FWIW, I live on the Baltic and have never seen or heard of cypresses
> around here.
>
> Sakari Aaltonen
>
>
>
> > Anyone heard of baltic cypress plywood ? Any good or bad points
about
> > it? They had sheets of 3/8 that where 6ply and seemed very solid.
> > Almost perfect finish and a very white on both sides.
> >
> > Todd
Todd,
I think of cypress as a southern, swampy kind of tree.
Did you mean birch? If so, not bad if decent sheets found
cheaply, but has scant rot resistance.
Mark
Sakari Aaltonen wrote:
I think of cypress as a southern, swampy kind of tree.
Did you mean birch? If so, not bad if decent sheets found
cheaply, but has scant rot resistance.
Mark
Sakari Aaltonen wrote:
>
> FWIW, I live on the Baltic and have never seen or heard of
> cypresses
> around here.
>
> Sakari Aaltonen
>
> > Anyone heard of baltic cypress plywood ? Any good or bad
> points about
> > it? They had sheets of 3/8 that where 6ply and seemed
> very solid.
> > Almost perfect finish and a very white on both sides.
> >
> > Todd
>
Zebra wood (Microberlinia brazzavillensis) RARE OR ENDANGERED! in at least
one of the countries where it is harvested.
Distinctive in appearance, zebrawood comes from two species of large trees
found mainly in Cameroon and Gabon, West Africa. While it is usually seen as
a veneer in North America, when quarter sawn this timber can give beautiful
results in solid form. Zebrawood is difficult to work, however, and veneers
tend to be fragile.
Uses: Turning, tool handles, skis, inlay, furniture, cabinet and decoratvie
veneers.
Workability: Fair; dulls cutting edges moderately; interlocked gain will
tend to tear; suffers from high shrinkage and may be unstable in use. Flat
cut boards hard to dry.
RARE OR ENDANGERED!
one of the countries where it is harvested.
Distinctive in appearance, zebrawood comes from two species of large trees
found mainly in Cameroon and Gabon, West Africa. While it is usually seen as
a veneer in North America, when quarter sawn this timber can give beautiful
results in solid form. Zebrawood is difficult to work, however, and veneers
tend to be fragile.
Uses: Turning, tool handles, skis, inlay, furniture, cabinet and decoratvie
veneers.
Workability: Fair; dulls cutting edges moderately; interlocked gain will
tend to tear; suffers from high shrinkage and may be unstable in use. Flat
cut boards hard to dry.
RARE OR ENDANGERED!
> --- In bolger@y..., "ntsrfer" <ktsrfer@m...> wrote:
>> Well I went to my local lumber store about a block away looked at
>> all the hardwood selection that they carried. They have a whole
>> warehouse of just hardwood. The wood that cought my eye stood out
> the
>> most was their hoduras mohagany and some really nice pieces of
> teak
>> but at$15.85 bf for the teak . They had some really neat looking
>> zebra wood too. Can you epoxy mohagany and or teak ?
FWIW, I live on the Baltic and have never seen or heard of cypresses
around here.
Sakari Aaltonen
around here.
Sakari Aaltonen
> Anyone heard of baltic cypress plywood ? Any good or bad points about
> it? They had sheets of 3/8 that where 6ply and seemed very solid.
> Almost perfect finish and a very white on both sides.
>
> Todd
Todd,
There is no problem gluing Honduras mahogany. Teak can be a little
challanging if it's old growth heartwood, but that's unlikely to be
found these days. Most of the teak being sold now is from plantations
and is low in the oils that interfere with epoxy (and provide the
wood with its superior rot resistance). I've done a couple of teak
veneer decks per WEST System technique that have both lasted over a
decade. Btw, US$15.85 is not an outragious price for teak, but I
wouldn't spend that much for framing lumber. Save the teak for grab
rails and eyebrows and such.
I know nothing about zebrawood or baltic cypress. I'm sure that
someone will come up with some interesting details, though,
porky
There is no problem gluing Honduras mahogany. Teak can be a little
challanging if it's old growth heartwood, but that's unlikely to be
found these days. Most of the teak being sold now is from plantations
and is low in the oils that interfere with epoxy (and provide the
wood with its superior rot resistance). I've done a couple of teak
veneer decks per WEST System technique that have both lasted over a
decade. Btw, US$15.85 is not an outragious price for teak, but I
wouldn't spend that much for framing lumber. Save the teak for grab
rails and eyebrows and such.
I know nothing about zebrawood or baltic cypress. I'm sure that
someone will come up with some interesting details, though,
porky
--- In bolger@y..., "ntsrfer" <ktsrfer@m...> wrote:
> Well I went to my local lumber store about a block away looked at
> all the hardwood selection that they carried. They have a whole
> warehouse of just hardwood. The wood that cought my eye stood out
the
> most was their hoduras mohagany and some really nice pieces of
teak
> but at$15.85 bf for the teak . They had some really neat looking
> zebra wood too. Can you epoxy mohagany and or teak ?
>
> Anyone heard of baltic cypress plywood ? Any good or bad points
about
> it? They had sheets of 3/8 that where 6ply and seemed very solid.
> Almost perfect finish and a very white on both sides.
>
> Todd
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "Clyde S. Wisner" <clydewis@c...> wrote:
> > I have found it a mistake to use red oak. epoxy comes off in the
> weather and it is much more effected by weather and rot. I used it
on
> rub rails and some trim on several boats and it looks like H,
pardon,
> looks awful. Clyde
> >
> > Jeff Blunck wrote:
> >
> > > Lot's of debate on this one, but in my opinion, use what is
> available. Red oak is easier to work and glue but less rot
resistant
> since it can wick up water through the grain. Use epoxy to seal it
> well and it'll last longer than the boat.
> > >
> > > Strength wise for your use, they're about the same.
> > >
> > > Jeff
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
horses
> > > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all
you
> like
> > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Well I went to my local lumber store about a block away looked at
all the hardwood selection that they carried. They have a whole
warehouse of just hardwood. The wood that cought my eye stood out the
most was their hoduras mohagany and some really nice pieces of teak
but at$15.85 bf for the teak . They had some really neat looking
zebra wood too. Can you epoxy mohagany and or teak ?
Anyone heard of baltic cypress plywood ? Any good or bad points about
it? They had sheets of 3/8 that where 6ply and seemed very solid.
Almost perfect finish and a very white on both sides.
Todd
all the hardwood selection that they carried. They have a whole
warehouse of just hardwood. The wood that cought my eye stood out the
most was their hoduras mohagany and some really nice pieces of teak
but at$15.85 bf for the teak . They had some really neat looking
zebra wood too. Can you epoxy mohagany and or teak ?
Anyone heard of baltic cypress plywood ? Any good or bad points about
it? They had sheets of 3/8 that where 6ply and seemed very solid.
Almost perfect finish and a very white on both sides.
Todd
--- In bolger@y..., "Clyde S. Wisner" <clydewis@c...> wrote:
> I have found it a mistake to use red oak. epoxy comes off in the
weather and it is much more effected by weather and rot. I used it on
rub rails and some trim on several boats and it looks like H, pardon,
looks awful. Clyde
>
> Jeff Blunck wrote:
>
> > Lot's of debate on this one, but in my opinion, use what is
available. Red oak is easier to work and glue but less rot resistant
since it can wick up water through the grain. Use epoxy to seal it
well and it'll last longer than the boat.
> >
> > Strength wise for your use, they're about the same.
> >
> > Jeff
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
like
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
I have found it a mistake to use red oak. epoxy comes off in the weather and it is much more effected by weather and rot. I used it on rub rails and some trim on several boats and it looks like H, pardon, looks awful. Clyde
Jeff Blunck wrote:
Jeff Blunck wrote:
> Lot's of debate on this one, but in my opinion, use what is available. Red oak is easier to work and glue but less rot resistant since it can wick up water through the grain. Use epoxy to seal it well and it'll last longer than the boat.
>
> Strength wise for your use, they're about the same.
>
> Jeff
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> However, John Gardner (of TSCA fame) wrote about an old traditionalboat in one of his books where red oak was used, and was still sound
after quite a few decades.
The advice given above agrees with what I have heard.
I once heard that red oak lasted "six years, or sixty." In
otherwords, it was quite rot prone or very rot resistant. The
explanation goes something like this:
There are many kinds of oak. Many more than "red" and "white." Most
of the variety is in the "red" category. Some have a structure
similar to white oak and have good rot resistance, i.e. last sixty
years. Some wick water through the wood more easily, have low rot
resistance, and last six years.
But, the six years is based on traditional carvel construction where
frame ends may be continuously wet. If the wood is dry, it should
last indefinitely.
Peter
Lot's of debate on this one, but in my opinion, use what is available. Red oak is easier to work and glue but less rot resistant since it can wick up water through the grain. Use epoxy to seal it well and it'll last longer than the boat.
Strength wise for your use, they're about the same.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Strength wise for your use, they're about the same.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I only used white oak once, it was a light brown. I've used red oak, it was
also brown, but different, with more obvious grain. That's not much help,
is it? But both are good strong woods.
White oak is very rot-resistant but doesn't glue well.
Red oak, being less rot-resistant than white, gets some bad press. However,
John Gardner (of TSCA fame) wrote about an old traditional boat in one of
his books where red oak was used, and was still sound after quite a few
decades. It might not be a good choice for frames where the bottom ends sit
in a bilge full of rainwater, but it should be excellent for the partner and
thwart. It takes glue well, too.
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From: ntsrfer [mailto:ktsrfer@...]
Sent: February 7, 2002 9:34 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Oak ,whiteoak, redoak?
Is oak, oak ? Whats with the color?
Would red oak be a good choice for a mast partner and mast support
thwart?
Thanks,
Todd
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
also brown, but different, with more obvious grain. That's not much help,
is it? But both are good strong woods.
White oak is very rot-resistant but doesn't glue well.
Red oak, being less rot-resistant than white, gets some bad press. However,
John Gardner (of TSCA fame) wrote about an old traditional boat in one of
his books where red oak was used, and was still sound after quite a few
decades. It might not be a good choice for frames where the bottom ends sit
in a bilge full of rainwater, but it should be excellent for the partner and
thwart. It takes glue well, too.
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From: ntsrfer [mailto:ktsrfer@...]
Sent: February 7, 2002 9:34 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Oak ,whiteoak, redoak?
Is oak, oak ? Whats with the color?
Would red oak be a good choice for a mast partner and mast support
thwart?
Thanks,
Todd
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Is oak, oak ? Whats with the color?
Would red oak be a good choice for a mast partner and mast support
thwart?
Thanks,
Todd
Would red oak be a good choice for a mast partner and mast support
thwart?
Thanks,
Todd