Re: epoxy and plexiglass
I looked and looked and looked...
--- In bolger@y..., "mikestockstill" <mkstocks@b...> wrote:
> Hi -
>
> I made a posting regarding the knockdown on the list - I'll have to
> go back and search for it. The windows held up just fine.
> Mike
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "rlspell2000" <richard@s...> wrote:
> > Ah, so that is what you made your windows out of. How did they
hold
> > up in your knockdown?
> >
> > BTW, can I ask one more time for you to go into more detail on
your
> > knockdown?
Hi -
I made a posting regarding the knockdown on the list - I'll have to
go back and search for it. The windows held up just fine.
Mike
I made a posting regarding the knockdown on the list - I'll have to
go back and search for it. The windows held up just fine.
Mike
--- In bolger@y..., "rlspell2000" <richard@s...> wrote:
> Ah, so that is what you made your windows out of. How did they hold
> up in your knockdown?
>
> BTW, can I ask one more time for you to go into more detail on your
> knockdown?
You can't epoxy Plexiglas. Some member of this group posted this web
site on handling Lexan and Plexiglas
http://www.clearcutplastics.com/Do_it_Yourself/do_it_yourself.html
Great source
HJ
Sam Glasscock wrote:
site on handling Lexan and Plexiglas
http://www.clearcutplastics.com/Do_it_Yourself/do_it_yourself.html
Great source
HJ
Sam Glasscock wrote:
>
> The plexi windows on Topaz, per Bolger's plans, are
> hinged at the top and fold up against the cabin
> overhead. Bolger doesn't show a frame around the
> plastic panels, but I am concerned about stress on the
> plexiglass if I simply bolt through to the hinges.
> Has anyone had any experience with epoxy and
> plexiglass? Could stainless hinges simply be glued to
> the plexi sheet so that the strain was spread out over
> the entire area of the hinge? Any thoughts? Sam
>
> _
Mike--It is humbling to read something so obvious but
which I never would have though of myself. The light
just went on. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Sam.
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which I never would have though of myself. The light
just went on. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Sam.
> The forward window on my MJ is designed to hinge up.__________________________________________________
> Instead of
> building a hinge, i just drilled a 3/8" hole in the
> top two corners
> of the plexiglass and two similar holes in the
> forward face of the
> window. Then I put some thin weather strip around
> the forward face
> (again, 1/4" I think - maybe wider). Push a short
> piece of stretchy
> chord through the plexy and frame hole. Tie a knot
> in each end. Do
> the same with the other hole. Slide the knot up
> nice and tight.
> Voila - a "hinge" - seal is great, never rattles.
> Cost - HA!
>
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Ah, so that is what you made your windows out of. How did they hold
up in your knockdown?
BTW, can I ask one more time for you to go into more detail on your
knockdown?
up in your knockdown?
BTW, can I ask one more time for you to go into more detail on your
knockdown?
--- In bolger@y..., "mikestockstill" <mkstocks@b...> wrote:
> Hi Sam -
>
> I have experience with 1/4" plexiglass on my Martha Jane. Have you
> ever tried to break the stuff? Frankly, I think you will be fine
> bolting the hinges to the plexyglass, If you want to spread the
> stress a bit, just double the thickness of the plexyglass between
the
> nut and the washer - that will spread the stress a bit yet not be
an
> eyesore.
>
> The forward window on my MJ is designed to hinge up. Instead of
> building a hinge, i just drilled a 3/8" hole in the top two corners
> of the plexiglass and two similar holes in the forward face of the
> window. Then I put some thin weather strip around the forward face
> (again, 1/4" I think - maybe wider). Push a short piece of
stretchy
> chord through the plexy and frame hole. Tie a knot in each end. Do
> the same with the other hole. Slide the knot up nice and tight.
> Voila - a "hinge" - seal is great, never rattles. Cost - HA!
>
> Mike
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...> wrote:
> > The plexi windows on Topaz, per Bolger's plans, are
> > hinged at the top and fold up against the cabin
> > overhead. Bolger doesn't show a frame around the
> > plastic panels, but I am concerned about stress on the
> > plexiglass if I simply bolt through to the hinges.
> > Has anyone had any experience with epoxy and
> > plexiglass? Could stainless hinges simply be glued to
> > the plexi sheet so that the strain was spread out over
> > the entire area of the hinge? Any thoughts? Sam
Hi Sam -
I have experience with 1/4" plexiglass on my Martha Jane. Have you
ever tried to break the stuff? Frankly, I think you will be fine
bolting the hinges to the plexyglass, If you want to spread the
stress a bit, just double the thickness of the plexyglass between the
nut and the washer - that will spread the stress a bit yet not be an
eyesore.
The forward window on my MJ is designed to hinge up. Instead of
building a hinge, i just drilled a 3/8" hole in the top two corners
of the plexiglass and two similar holes in the forward face of the
window. Then I put some thin weather strip around the forward face
(again, 1/4" I think - maybe wider). Push a short piece of stretchy
chord through the plexy and frame hole. Tie a knot in each end. Do
the same with the other hole. Slide the knot up nice and tight.
Voila - a "hinge" - seal is great, never rattles. Cost - HA!
Mike
I have experience with 1/4" plexiglass on my Martha Jane. Have you
ever tried to break the stuff? Frankly, I think you will be fine
bolting the hinges to the plexyglass, If you want to spread the
stress a bit, just double the thickness of the plexyglass between the
nut and the washer - that will spread the stress a bit yet not be an
eyesore.
The forward window on my MJ is designed to hinge up. Instead of
building a hinge, i just drilled a 3/8" hole in the top two corners
of the plexiglass and two similar holes in the forward face of the
window. Then I put some thin weather strip around the forward face
(again, 1/4" I think - maybe wider). Push a short piece of stretchy
chord through the plexy and frame hole. Tie a knot in each end. Do
the same with the other hole. Slide the knot up nice and tight.
Voila - a "hinge" - seal is great, never rattles. Cost - HA!
Mike
--- In bolger@y..., Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...> wrote:
> The plexi windows on Topaz, per Bolger's plans, are
> hinged at the top and fold up against the cabin
> overhead. Bolger doesn't show a frame around the
> plastic panels, but I am concerned about stress on the
> plexiglass if I simply bolt through to the hinges.
> Has anyone had any experience with epoxy and
> plexiglass? Could stainless hinges simply be glued to
> the plexi sheet so that the strain was spread out over
> the entire area of the hinge? Any thoughts? Sam
I doubt epoxy would stick well to plexi, and it's a pretty sure bet it would
not hold onto stainless for very long, with stresses from swinging up and
down on a hinge. In lieu of a full frame, you might use some sort of backing
plate, say some SS strapping on the other side of the plexi from a piano
hinge or similar; with some kind of dense, thin padding like rubber in
between the metal layers and the plastic to distribute forces better. I've
played alot with plexi, making fairings for my motorcycle as well as in my
work; the commercially available fairings seem to use this principle of
multiple layers with something softer in between to distribute tensions so
their is a little 'give' so the screws won't crack their holes out, so I've
borrowed the idea in my projects. I recently made a collapsible enclosure
for field instruments out of plexi, basically a box with hinges on all
corners so it'll fold flat for transport. While it was tempting to
countersink screws to make them pretty, experience tells me countersinking
screws in plastic is a sure way to guarantee failure around the hole. This
time I used pan-head screws with washers on the outside, and between my
small brass hinges and the plexi I cut some pads out of bicycle innertubes,
the same size as the hinges so they disappear, and with holes punched for
the screws using a leather punch; the hinges got nylock nuts on the back
side, with the hinge plate distributing the strains there. This was less
than a month ago, don't know yet how well it will hold up, but it felt very
solid. You could easily do something similar, may have to drill some little
partial holes in the outer walls for the screw heads or nuts to tuck into
when the windows are fully closed. Good luck!
Paul L.
not hold onto stainless for very long, with stresses from swinging up and
down on a hinge. In lieu of a full frame, you might use some sort of backing
plate, say some SS strapping on the other side of the plexi from a piano
hinge or similar; with some kind of dense, thin padding like rubber in
between the metal layers and the plastic to distribute forces better. I've
played alot with plexi, making fairings for my motorcycle as well as in my
work; the commercially available fairings seem to use this principle of
multiple layers with something softer in between to distribute tensions so
their is a little 'give' so the screws won't crack their holes out, so I've
borrowed the idea in my projects. I recently made a collapsible enclosure
for field instruments out of plexi, basically a box with hinges on all
corners so it'll fold flat for transport. While it was tempting to
countersink screws to make them pretty, experience tells me countersinking
screws in plastic is a sure way to guarantee failure around the hole. This
time I used pan-head screws with washers on the outside, and between my
small brass hinges and the plexi I cut some pads out of bicycle innertubes,
the same size as the hinges so they disappear, and with holes punched for
the screws using a leather punch; the hinges got nylock nuts on the back
side, with the hinge plate distributing the strains there. This was less
than a month ago, don't know yet how well it will hold up, but it felt very
solid. You could easily do something similar, may have to drill some little
partial holes in the outer walls for the screw heads or nuts to tuck into
when the windows are fully closed. Good luck!
Paul L.
>
I have the same issues on the Wyo.
A couple things I might do is to through bolt the plexi to a piece of hardwood across the top, then bolt the hinges to the hardwood strip.
Another ploy would be to drill the holes over sized and use a rubber insert around the bolt. The bolts would use a large washer with a rubber pad to help with the loads. This is similar to windows in campers that I've seen.
Maybe even a continuous piano hinge of brass at the top would work too.
I questioned Mr. Bolger on this and he mentioned an option of having the plexi laying in a groove cut in hardwood on all four sides. In other words, build a frame around them, but that seems like a lot of work and hassle. But it would allow a good tight fit and lock down.
Jeff
A couple things I might do is to through bolt the plexi to a piece of hardwood across the top, then bolt the hinges to the hardwood strip.
Another ploy would be to drill the holes over sized and use a rubber insert around the bolt. The bolts would use a large washer with a rubber pad to help with the loads. This is similar to windows in campers that I've seen.
Maybe even a continuous piano hinge of brass at the top would work too.
I questioned Mr. Bolger on this and he mentioned an option of having the plexi laying in a groove cut in hardwood on all four sides. In other words, build a frame around them, but that seems like a lot of work and hassle. But it would allow a good tight fit and lock down.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: Sam Glasscock
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2002 12:23 PM
Subject: [bolger] epoxy and plexiglass
The plexi windows on Topaz, per Bolger's plans, are
hinged at the top and fold up against the cabin
overhead. Bolger doesn't show a frame around the
plastic panels, but I am concerned about stress on the
plexiglass if I simply bolt through to the hinges.
Has anyone had any experience with epoxy and
plexiglass? Could stainless hinges simply be glued to
the plexi sheet so that the strain was spread out over
the entire area of the hinge? Any thoughts? Sam
__________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
The plexi windows on Topaz, per Bolger's plans, are
hinged at the top and fold up against the cabin
overhead. Bolger doesn't show a frame around the
plastic panels, but I am concerned about stress on the
plexiglass if I simply bolt through to the hinges.
Has anyone had any experience with epoxy and
plexiglass? Could stainless hinges simply be glued to
the plexi sheet so that the strain was spread out over
the entire area of the hinge? Any thoughts? Sam
__________________________________________________
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Send FREE Valentine eCards with Yahoo! Greetings!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
hinged at the top and fold up against the cabin
overhead. Bolger doesn't show a frame around the
plastic panels, but I am concerned about stress on the
plexiglass if I simply bolt through to the hinges.
Has anyone had any experience with epoxy and
plexiglass? Could stainless hinges simply be glued to
the plexi sheet so that the strain was spread out over
the entire area of the hinge? Any thoughts? Sam
__________________________________________________
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Send FREE Valentine eCards with Yahoo! Greetings!
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Super. I'll take 'em. Thanks. I'll call to arrange
pick up.
--- richter2222001 <RICHARDSONTE@...> wrote:
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pick up.
--- richter2222001 <RICHARDSONTE@...> wrote:
> Started Long Micro. Now we are moving. Side panels,__________________________________________________
> frames to first
> taker for free. Call 203-426-0858 One set of Plans
> for two sailboat
> jackstands(small)
>
>
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Started Long Micro. Now we are moving. Side panels, frames to first
taker for free. Call 203-426-0858 One set of Plans for two sailboat
jackstands(small)
taker for free. Call 203-426-0858 One set of Plans for two sailboat
jackstands(small)