Re: [bolger] Re: concrete ballast ????
I wouldn't use cement. Cement can flake and break up unless permanently mounted in re-bar. If anything, layout and glue down rows of 2x4 stock on edge inside the tank wide enough for a couple rows of brick to be mounted then screw down a layer ply to hold it all in place. That way you can remove it and go with the water ballast if you wish. This method is not that much more expensive and a lot easier to install.
If you do any trailering, the water ballast is nice.
Jeff
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If you do any trailering, the water ballast is nice.
Jeff
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Hi Tony -
I find the water ballast to be convenient and quite sufficient. If
you are not convinced, then I recommend you give it a try before
investing the time and energy in a modification.
See you on the water.
Mike
I find the water ballast to be convenient and quite sufficient. If
you are not convinced, then I recommend you give it a try before
investing the time and energy in a modification.
See you on the water.
Mike
> So my 2 questions to the group areof
> 1.. what are your thoughts about using concrete
> 2.. for those of you with Martha Janes do you believe that 1000lbs
> ballast is the correct amount to add... I believe that ive readmany
> of you are using less weight but could be mistaken
>
> Thanks
> Tony Walker
--- In bolger@y..., "martha_jane_builder" <martha_jane_builder@y...> wrote
to prevent corrosion in the concrete pad. not sure where you could
get it retail, but you might find a small construction company that
would be willing to sell you a couple of pieces.
da
>you might want to look at coated rebar. its used in road construction
> My prefered option at the present time is to divide the existing
> ballast tanks into several sections by gluing timber spacers (port-
> starboard)then drilling through these and inserting 10mm threaded rod
> (fore-aft).. then coat everything heavily in epoxy and pour in
> concrete.
to prevent corrosion in the concrete pad. not sure where you could
get it retail, but you might find a small construction company that
would be willing to sell you a couple of pieces.
da
After almost a year away .. Im back now and wanting to finish my MJ.
I was suprised how much dust can accumulate in a mere 12 months not
to mention the hundreds of spiders that made a home in my half
completed boat.
As a bit of background.. I had almost completed the old version of
the MJ when the new updated plans became available so out came the
saw and major surgery commenced. I'm adding the high house,new lee-
boards, sponsons but keeping the old rudder (I've already made it and
cut the hole in the hull).
As far as the 500 lbs steel plate for ballast goes.. having already
glassed and antifouled the bottom I didn't like the idea of undoing
all my good work without even getting the boat in the water...so I
thought I would place the ballast internally.
Over the last 12 months of inactivity I have been thinking a great
deal about the ballast issue and have decided NOT to use water but
fill the ballast tanks with somthing else.. lead..steel..concrete etc
My prefered option at the present time is to divide the existing
ballast tanks into several sections by gluing timber spacers (port-
starboard)then drilling through these and inserting 10mm threaded rod
(fore-aft).. then coat everything heavily in epoxy and pour in
concrete.
Hope thats clear enough?????
To add 1000lbs of concrete ballast I should only need to fill the
tanks about 4 or 5 inches (havent calculated yet)
My thinking is that everything will be held securely in the event of
a knockdown by the steel reinforcing and concrete is much cheaper
than steel or lead. Plus much easier to attach
So my 2 questions to the group are
1.. what are your thoughts about using concrete
2.. for those of you with Martha Janes do you believe that 1000lbs of
ballast is the correct amount to add... I believe that ive read many
of you are using less weight but could be mistaken
Thanks
Tony Walker
I was suprised how much dust can accumulate in a mere 12 months not
to mention the hundreds of spiders that made a home in my half
completed boat.
As a bit of background.. I had almost completed the old version of
the MJ when the new updated plans became available so out came the
saw and major surgery commenced. I'm adding the high house,new lee-
boards, sponsons but keeping the old rudder (I've already made it and
cut the hole in the hull).
As far as the 500 lbs steel plate for ballast goes.. having already
glassed and antifouled the bottom I didn't like the idea of undoing
all my good work without even getting the boat in the water...so I
thought I would place the ballast internally.
Over the last 12 months of inactivity I have been thinking a great
deal about the ballast issue and have decided NOT to use water but
fill the ballast tanks with somthing else.. lead..steel..concrete etc
My prefered option at the present time is to divide the existing
ballast tanks into several sections by gluing timber spacers (port-
starboard)then drilling through these and inserting 10mm threaded rod
(fore-aft).. then coat everything heavily in epoxy and pour in
concrete.
Hope thats clear enough?????
To add 1000lbs of concrete ballast I should only need to fill the
tanks about 4 or 5 inches (havent calculated yet)
My thinking is that everything will be held securely in the event of
a knockdown by the steel reinforcing and concrete is much cheaper
than steel or lead. Plus much easier to attach
So my 2 questions to the group are
1.. what are your thoughts about using concrete
2.. for those of you with Martha Janes do you believe that 1000lbs of
ballast is the correct amount to add... I believe that ive read many
of you are using less weight but could be mistaken
Thanks
Tony Walker