Re: [bolger] Tennessee
I have been reading the Emaill about Tennessee plans and remembered that I ordered a copy from Bernard Wolfard in 1996. I made some notes on the plans and built a model but decided not to build the boat. If you can use them I will be happy to sell them to you. Roger --- OnSat, 7/21/12, rkldude<rkldude@...>wrote: |
I think I got the last set. With a letter from Phil included.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "rkldude" <rkldude@...> wrote:
>
> Does anyone have plans for Tennessee that they wish to sell ? I can also build a boat of similar design if I have the correct dimensions for bulkheads of a boat similar in size to Tennessee without all the info for scantlings and such. Can anyone help ? I have written and emailed PB&Friends with no success. Thanks, R.Laux
>
Phil would love that
jdmeddock wrote:
jdmeddock wrote:
>
> There is enough data in Different Boats to build it.
> Get it from inter-library loan if you can't buy a copy.
>
> Justin
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com<mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com>,
> "rkldude" <rkldude@...> wrote:
> >
> > Does anyone have plans for Tennessee that they wish to sell ? I can
> also build a boat of similar design if I have the correct dimensions
> for bulkheads of a boat similar in size to Tennessee without all the
> info for scantlings and such. Can anyone help ? I have written and
> emailed PB&Friends with no success. Thanks, R.Laux
> >
>
>
There is enough data in Different Boats to build it.
Get it from inter-library loan if you can't buy a copy.
Justin
Get it from inter-library loan if you can't buy a copy.
Justin
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "rkldude" <rkldude@...> wrote:
>
> Does anyone have plans for Tennessee that they wish to sell ? I can also build a boat of similar design if I have the correct dimensions for bulkheads of a boat similar in size to Tennessee without all the info for scantlings and such. Can anyone help ? I have written and emailed PB&Friends with no success. Thanks, R.Laux
>
"a boat similar in size to Tennessee"
At the risk of offending all the Bolgeristas out there, Mik answers his e-mails and provides excellent customer service.
Michael Storer TC 35
John Boy
I have a blog! http://toon2sailor.blogspot.com/
“Seaward ho! Hang the treasure! It's the glory of the sea that has turned my head.”
Robert Louis Stevenson,Treasure Island
Does anyone have plans for Tennessee that they wish to sell ? I can also build a boat of similar design if I have the correct dimensions for bulkheads of a boat similar in size to Tennessee without all the info for scantlings and such. Can anyone help ? I have written and emailed PB&Friends with no success. Thanks, R.Laux
Some Tennessee web sites, it tends to get modified with superstructure.
It was designed for and apparently goes well on 10 hp when built as
designed.
http://www.boatdesign.com/jumps/dixtenn/Page.html
http://www.ace.net.au/schooner/tenn.htm
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/00/DM1999/articles/building/index.htm
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/04/s/projects/tennessee/index.cfm
Go to Duckworks magazine and search for Tennessee, lots of comments and
such.
HJ
deserttoad64 wrote:
It was designed for and apparently goes well on 10 hp when built as
designed.
http://www.boatdesign.com/jumps/dixtenn/Page.html
http://www.ace.net.au/schooner/tenn.htm
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/00/DM1999/articles/building/index.htm
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/04/s/projects/tennessee/index.cfm
Go to Duckworks magazine and search for Tennessee, lots of comments and
such.
HJ
deserttoad64 wrote:
> Can anyone tell me something about this boat? What HP is it rated for?
> Always wanted to build something like this. Anyone out there ever build
> one? Pretty cool.
>
>
>
Here is a real quickie of Tennessee, view with a grain of salt.
http://flickr.com/photos/hallman/2233660084/
http://flickr.com/photos/hallman/2233660084/
There are a number of them built, mostly in Australia but at least four here
in the US. The plans show a 9.9hp, but I have corresponded with Phil and he
is aware that EstherMae has 25hp. That is rapidly approaching the limit due
to the light construction of the hull. There are photos on the web, search
"Phil Bolger Tennessee". Also photos in this forum, under EstherMae and
multiple topics of conversation in the archives with Tennessee in the
subject.
Caloosarat
_____
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
deserttoad64
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2008 10:08 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Tennessee
Can anyone tell me something about this boat? What HP is it rated for?
Always wanted to build something like this. Anyone out there ever build
one? Pretty cool.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
in the US. The plans show a 9.9hp, but I have corresponded with Phil and he
is aware that EstherMae has 25hp. That is rapidly approaching the limit due
to the light construction of the hull. There are photos on the web, search
"Phil Bolger Tennessee". Also photos in this forum, under EstherMae and
multiple topics of conversation in the archives with Tennessee in the
subject.
Caloosarat
_____
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
deserttoad64
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2008 10:08 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Tennessee
Can anyone tell me something about this boat? What HP is it rated for?
Always wanted to build something like this. Anyone out there ever build
one? Pretty cool.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Can anyone tell me something about this boat? What HP is it rated for?
Always wanted to build something like this. Anyone out there ever build
one? Pretty cool.
Always wanted to build something like this. Anyone out there ever build
one? Pretty cool.
Tim:
Great looking model. I purchased plans after purchasing the boat as
much to build a model, as to understand the boat itself. Please do
post photos of your build.
I envy the look of your stern. Even without such a flourish the Esther
Mae gets a lot of thumbs up and enthusiastic waves.
A bow cockpit may be one of the major changes that I will engage. My
real problem is the #4 bulkhead. It is right where I would like to
have a pair of bunks. Then there is the issue of access into the bow
cockpit, how are you proposing to access? I did notice that your
forward hatch is at the bow end of the cabin, vs. mine which is at the
rear.
I suspect that you will have even more of a problem with the drift due
to elimination of the external chines. We have had some phosphorus in
the river as of late and night running allows for observation similar
to a wind tunnel with smoke. The disturbance from the chines would
indicate that they grab the water during turns adding some lateral
resistance. Additionaly they fender the sides such that the side
panels never have to hit the dock, you will find this unavoidable with
verticle sides.
Curves to the cabin top are the way to go, as much for water shedding
as strength enhancement plus the graceful look it gives. My cockpit
roof has a curve while the cabin, bow and stern do not. At 14 years
old there is the beginning of a soft spot around the stern decking that
will have to be dealt with, this I feel could have been avoided to some
degree with the curved deck.
There is no doubt that PCB is a genius, the more we use the Esther Mae
the more it becomes obvious what a cool boat it is. It speaks to the
misguided desire of the stock boating industry that someone has not
marketed such a vessel for the boating public. Guess it does not fit
the image of freedom on the water since it only goes 10 mph and does
not require a 100 hp motor. I find the pace to be extremly freeing, I
like most nowadays have so little time that when I go boating the last
thing I want is to go like hell so that I can hurry up and turn around
and go like hell back from whence I came. I can state that at 10 mph
we have put over 900 miles on the Esther Mae since Christmas.
Please post photos and messages as you work through the process.
Caloosarat
Gravediggerjames wrote:
Hello Friends,
I've added a photo album of my model Tennessee.
Modifications to the plans include a two and one half feet extension
to the stern--to make it round.
Well, I also opted for a bow cockpit. I eliminated the external
chines for aesthetic reasons. Put a curve to the cabin top for the
same reason, and a slight curve to the decks to shed water. One of the
things I really appreciate about this design is the
genius of its perfect simplicity and function, combined with maximum
ease of building. really look forward to cost
efficient cruising along the hundreds and hundreds of miles of
Columbia and Snake rivers, and beyond!
Tim
Great looking model. I purchased plans after purchasing the boat as
much to build a model, as to understand the boat itself. Please do
post photos of your build.
I envy the look of your stern. Even without such a flourish the Esther
Mae gets a lot of thumbs up and enthusiastic waves.
A bow cockpit may be one of the major changes that I will engage. My
real problem is the #4 bulkhead. It is right where I would like to
have a pair of bunks. Then there is the issue of access into the bow
cockpit, how are you proposing to access? I did notice that your
forward hatch is at the bow end of the cabin, vs. mine which is at the
rear.
I suspect that you will have even more of a problem with the drift due
to elimination of the external chines. We have had some phosphorus in
the river as of late and night running allows for observation similar
to a wind tunnel with smoke. The disturbance from the chines would
indicate that they grab the water during turns adding some lateral
resistance. Additionaly they fender the sides such that the side
panels never have to hit the dock, you will find this unavoidable with
verticle sides.
Curves to the cabin top are the way to go, as much for water shedding
as strength enhancement plus the graceful look it gives. My cockpit
roof has a curve while the cabin, bow and stern do not. At 14 years
old there is the beginning of a soft spot around the stern decking that
will have to be dealt with, this I feel could have been avoided to some
degree with the curved deck.
There is no doubt that PCB is a genius, the more we use the Esther Mae
the more it becomes obvious what a cool boat it is. It speaks to the
misguided desire of the stock boating industry that someone has not
marketed such a vessel for the boating public. Guess it does not fit
the image of freedom on the water since it only goes 10 mph and does
not require a 100 hp motor. I find the pace to be extremly freeing, I
like most nowadays have so little time that when I go boating the last
thing I want is to go like hell so that I can hurry up and turn around
and go like hell back from whence I came. I can state that at 10 mph
we have put over 900 miles on the Esther Mae since Christmas.
Please post photos and messages as you work through the process.
Caloosarat
Gravediggerjames wrote:
Hello Friends,
I've added a photo album of my model Tennessee.
Modifications to the plans include a two and one half feet extension
to the stern--to make it round.
Well, I also opted for a bow cockpit. I eliminated the external
chines for aesthetic reasons. Put a curve to the cabin top for the
same reason, and a slight curve to the decks to shed water. One of the
things I really appreciate about this design is the
genius of its perfect simplicity and function, combined with maximum
ease of building. really look forward to cost
efficient cruising along the hundreds and hundreds of miles of
Columbia and Snake rivers, and beyond!
Tim
Hey Chuck, Peter and all,
I agree it would probably be a better idea to build a real sailboat
but on strong thing in Tennessee's favor is the ease(?) of building. I mean in
comparison to Skillyagee. Plus Tennessee weighs 1000 lbs whereas Skillyagee
weighs 5000lbs. And as we all know lbs=dollars. Plus I want to tow it with my
wonderful little PT Cruiser. The motorsailer idea was just a flight of fanasty.
Does Mr. Bolger sell study plans? Does an index to his plans exist
anywhere?
So far Tennessee looks real good. Tom on Sandpiper.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I agree it would probably be a better idea to build a real sailboat
but on strong thing in Tennessee's favor is the ease(?) of building. I mean in
comparison to Skillyagee. Plus Tennessee weighs 1000 lbs whereas Skillyagee
weighs 5000lbs. And as we all know lbs=dollars. Plus I want to tow it with my
wonderful little PT Cruiser. The motorsailer idea was just a flight of fanasty.
Does Mr. Bolger sell study plans? Does an index to his plans exist
anywhere?
So far Tennessee looks real good. Tom on Sandpiper.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I am also looking for a website except I want one for the Tennessee. Can
anyone help. Tom on Sandpiper.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
anyone help. Tom on Sandpiper.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
See Fritz's Sneakeasy page for modular sneakeasy construction
http://www.alaska.net/~fritzf/Boats/Sneakeasy/Sneakeasy.htm
HJ
_ _ _ _ _
% Harrywelshman@...
http://www.alaska.net/~fritzf/Boats/Sneakeasy/Sneakeasy.htm
HJ
> How 'bout some more details and some photos--
> on this "modular" construction technique?
>
> I would love to build a Sneakeasy some time
> in the future, but do not have 28 feet of space
> in which to do it.
>
> Keep us all posted!
>
> Max
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> - no flogging dead horses
> - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> - stay on topic and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
_ _ _ _ _
% Harrywelshman@...
I completely agree. One thing about boat building is that one can
labor for hours and it still looks the same to bystanders, the
spouse, the kids, etc.
But we all know the simple pleasures of boat building is as
much "puttering around" as anything else.
Sometimes I can spend an hour or more with coffee and my nasty
nicotine habit just pondering what she'll look like or just how I'm
going to do it. I think that's as much fun as the labor of building.
Like the Chicken and Egg question, what came first, the Boat or the
Dream!
Jeff
"Puttering on my Tennessee"
labor for hours and it still looks the same to bystanders, the
spouse, the kids, etc.
But we all know the simple pleasures of boat building is as
much "puttering around" as anything else.
Sometimes I can spend an hour or more with coffee and my nasty
nicotine habit just pondering what she'll look like or just how I'm
going to do it. I think that's as much fun as the labor of building.
Like the Chicken and Egg question, what came first, the Boat or the
Dream!
Jeff
"Puttering on my Tennessee"
--- In bolger@y..., "Jim Chamberlin RCSIS" <jchamberlin@r...> wrote:
> Any progress some days is big deal.
> jim
>
Any progress some days is big deal.
jim
jim
> -----Original Message-----
> From:jeff@...[mailto:jeff@...]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 4:02 PM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Tennessee
>
>
> I wished I could call it a big deal building in two pieces but the
> Tennessee is designed perfectly for it. The butt splices for the
> sides come out almost on the middle bulkhead. I just made the butt
> splices slightly bigger and built two middle bulkheads identical in
> size except one will be a temporary as I build the back half to be
> removed as I mate the two halfs. Since the bottom is double sheathed
> with the splices staggared, that won't cause problems either.
>
> As far keeping the twist out, well I'll just have to be extremely
> careful but it can be done.
>
> The rub rails will all be added after the to halfs are mated. The
> bottom skids will be tied together with aluminium straps.
>
> Of course there will be minor finish work to do at the splice areas
> but she can be tipped up on her side to get to it all.
>
> Final painting and touch up also done after the joining of the halfs.
>
> Jeff
>
> --- In bolger@y..., cadbury@s... wrote:
> > --- In bolger@y..., jeff@g... wrote:
> > > I made good progress on the Tennessee the last two weeks. I'm
> > > building it in two pieces and have the front half sides and
> > bulkheads
> > >
> >
> > How 'bout some more details and some photos
> > on this "modular" construction technique?
> >
> > I would love to build a Sneakeasy some time
> > in the future, but do not have 28 feet of space
> > in which to do it.
> >
> > Keep us all posted!
> >
> >
> > Max
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> - no flogging dead horses
> - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> - stay on topic and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
I wished I could call it a big deal building in two pieces but the
Tennessee is designed perfectly for it. The butt splices for the
sides come out almost on the middle bulkhead. I just made the butt
splices slightly bigger and built two middle bulkheads identical in
size except one will be a temporary as I build the back half to be
removed as I mate the two halfs. Since the bottom is double sheathed
with the splices staggared, that won't cause problems either.
As far keeping the twist out, well I'll just have to be extremely
careful but it can be done.
The rub rails will all be added after the to halfs are mated. The
bottom skids will be tied together with aluminium straps.
Of course there will be minor finish work to do at the splice areas
but she can be tipped up on her side to get to it all.
Final painting and touch up also done after the joining of the halfs.
Jeff
Tennessee is designed perfectly for it. The butt splices for the
sides come out almost on the middle bulkhead. I just made the butt
splices slightly bigger and built two middle bulkheads identical in
size except one will be a temporary as I build the back half to be
removed as I mate the two halfs. Since the bottom is double sheathed
with the splices staggared, that won't cause problems either.
As far keeping the twist out, well I'll just have to be extremely
careful but it can be done.
The rub rails will all be added after the to halfs are mated. The
bottom skids will be tied together with aluminium straps.
Of course there will be minor finish work to do at the splice areas
but she can be tipped up on her side to get to it all.
Final painting and touch up also done after the joining of the halfs.
Jeff
--- In bolger@y..., cadbury@s... wrote:
> --- In bolger@y..., jeff@g... wrote:
> > I made good progress on the Tennessee the last two weeks. I'm
> > building it in two pieces and have the front half sides and
> bulkheads
> >
>
> How 'bout some more details and some photos
> on this "modular" construction technique?
>
> I would love to build a Sneakeasy some time
> in the future, but do not have 28 feet of space
> in which to do it.
>
> Keep us all posted!
>
>
> Max
--- In bolger@y..., jeff@g... wrote:
on this "modular" construction technique?
I would love to build a Sneakeasy some time
in the future, but do not have 28 feet of space
in which to do it.
Keep us all posted!
Max
> I made good progress on the Tennessee the last two weeks. I'mbulkheads
> building it in two pieces and have the front half sides and
>How 'bout some more details and some photos
on this "modular" construction technique?
I would love to build a Sneakeasy some time
in the future, but do not have 28 feet of space
in which to do it.
Keep us all posted!
Max
Thanks for the kind words. We are actually on a search for cane
wicker boat seats to finish off the look.
I am concerned about making a large well that would enable the motor
to pivot. I'd loose a lot of floatation in the back. I would want
to make it just wide enough for the motor to slip in, say 10 inches
or so and long enough for it to pivot up as needed. This would then
need a rudder. Besides, I intend on some river running and having a
rudder is much better when drifting with the current, motor off.
Jeff
wicker boat seats to finish off the look.
I am concerned about making a large well that would enable the motor
to pivot. I'd loose a lot of floatation in the back. I would want
to make it just wide enough for the motor to slip in, say 10 inches
or so and long enough for it to pivot up as needed. This would then
need a rudder. Besides, I intend on some river running and having a
rudder is much better when drifting with the current, motor off.
Jeff
--- In bolger@y..., jmbell@m... wrote:
> Why would you need a rudder if you put the motor in a well? If you
> set it up right your motor will propel, steer, and tilt just like
it
> if it was on the transom.
>
> Oh, and I like your treatment of Tennessee. You've made it look
even
> more of the period than the original. You'll need a white linen
suit
> and a straw hat to completely pull off the Gatsby effect, though.
>
> Best,
>
> JB in Kennesaw, GA <><
>
>
> > I uploaded a concept drawing of what I want it to look like. I
> > bought a book of classic wooden power boats and I'm going for the
> > boxy, squared off look of the 1920's. Other than the sloping
cabin
> > area, it'll be built per plans. The windshield, well I'm working
> on
> > that yet. Even thinking of putting the motor in an enclosed well
> to
> > keep the theme going, but then I need a rudder, etc.
Why would you need a rudder if you put the motor in a well? If you
set it up right your motor will propel, steer, and tilt just like it
if it was on the transom.
Oh, and I like your treatment of Tennessee. You've made it look even
more of the period than the original. You'll need a white linen suit
and a straw hat to completely pull off the Gatsby effect, though.
Best,
JB in Kennesaw, GA <><
set it up right your motor will propel, steer, and tilt just like it
if it was on the transom.
Oh, and I like your treatment of Tennessee. You've made it look even
more of the period than the original. You'll need a white linen suit
and a straw hat to completely pull off the Gatsby effect, though.
Best,
JB in Kennesaw, GA <><
> I uploaded a concept drawing of what I want it to look like. Ion
> bought a book of classic wooden power boats and I'm going for the
> boxy, squared off look of the 1920's. Other than the sloping cabin
> area, it'll be built per plans. The windshield, well I'm working
> that yet. Even thinking of putting the motor in an enclosed wellto
> keep the theme going, but then I need a rudder, etc.
I made good progress on the Tennessee the last two weeks. I'm
building it in two pieces and have the front half sides and bulkheads
built and epoxy coated with glass on the exterior sides.
Ready to assemble and sheath the bottom next week.
I uploaded a concept drawing of what I want it to look like. I
bought a book of classic wooden power boats and I'm going for the
boxy, squared off look of the 1920's. Other than the sloping cabin
area, it'll be built per plans. The windshield, well I'm working on
that yet. Even thinking of putting the motor in an enclosed well to
keep the theme going, but then I need a rudder, etc.
Jeff
building it in two pieces and have the front half sides and bulkheads
built and epoxy coated with glass on the exterior sides.
Ready to assemble and sheath the bottom next week.
I uploaded a concept drawing of what I want it to look like. I
bought a book of classic wooden power boats and I'm going for the
boxy, squared off look of the 1920's. Other than the sloping cabin
area, it'll be built per plans. The windshield, well I'm working on
that yet. Even thinking of putting the motor in an enclosed well to
keep the theme going, but then I need a rudder, etc.
Jeff
Thanks for the information.
Our average days are in the mid to upper 80's and nights in the
summer almost always drop into the 60's so regardless of hardener, I
usually have to wait 24 hours before anything sets up enough to sand,
unless it's really hot out.
Patience is important to building with epoxy I guess.
Jeff
Our average days are in the mid to upper 80's and nights in the
summer almost always drop into the 60's so regardless of hardener, I
usually have to wait 24 hours before anything sets up enough to sand,
unless it's really hot out.
Patience is important to building with epoxy I guess.
Jeff
--- In bolger@y..., "Orr, Jamie" <jorr@b...> wrote:
> The epoxy will finish curing once it warms up again. I've used it
when the
> temperature has dropped below freezing before the cure, and its
just a
> matter of waiting. Doesn't seem to affect the strength, at least
not enough
> to notice -- the boat hasn't fallen apart yet.
>
> (I think the cure time doubles for every 10 degrees below 70
degrees, more
> or less. So it takes twice as long at 60, 4 times as long at 50)
>
> Jamie Orr
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jeff@g... [mailto:jeff@g...]
> Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 9:31 AM
> To: bolger@y...
> Subject: [bolger] Tennessee
>
>
> Does anyone know if that will effect the strength of the epoxy as
it
> cured? It didn't freeze but I hope a 40 degree change in temp
> didn't "shock" the cured strength.
>
> Jeff
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> - no flogging dead horses
> - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> - stay on topic and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
The epoxy will finish curing once it warms up again. I've used it when the
temperature has dropped below freezing before the cure, and its just a
matter of waiting. Doesn't seem to affect the strength, at least not enough
to notice -- the boat hasn't fallen apart yet.
(I think the cure time doubles for every 10 degrees below 70 degrees, more
or less. So it takes twice as long at 60, 4 times as long at 50)
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From:jeff@...[mailto:jeff@...]
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 9:31 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Tennessee
Does anyone know if that will effect the strength of the epoxy as it
cured? It didn't freeze but I hope a 40 degree change in temp
didn't "shock" the cured strength.
Jeff
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
- no flogging dead horses
- add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
- stay on topic and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
temperature has dropped below freezing before the cure, and its just a
matter of waiting. Doesn't seem to affect the strength, at least not enough
to notice -- the boat hasn't fallen apart yet.
(I think the cure time doubles for every 10 degrees below 70 degrees, more
or less. So it takes twice as long at 60, 4 times as long at 50)
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From:jeff@...[mailto:jeff@...]
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 9:31 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Tennessee
Does anyone know if that will effect the strength of the epoxy as it
cured? It didn't freeze but I hope a 40 degree change in temp
didn't "shock" the cured strength.
Jeff
Bolger rules!!!
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- no flogging dead horses
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- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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I occasionaly store epoxy in the deep freeze when I want to stretch
the cure time. Get called away, etc.
Never seemed to bother it.
the cure time. Get called away, etc.
Never seemed to bother it.
--- In bolger@y..., jeff@g... wrote:
> Started the Tennessee last weekend. Got the bulkheads built and
half
> of one side butt spliced together on Sunday, and then the weather
> hit.
>
> If your from the mountain regions you'll understand but the temp
went
> from 74 degrees to 36 degrees in less than 30 minutes, then the
wind
> picked up and turned into a blizzard. I don't live in the mountains
> but close enough to get the weather. Three inches of snow on the
> ground in Denver over night.
>
> Luckily I was doing this in the garage but it sure got cold fast.
> Does anyone know if that will effect the strength of the epoxy as
it
> cured? It didn't freeze but I hope a 40 degree change in temp
> didn't "shock" the cured strength.
>
> Jeff
Started the Tennessee last weekend. Got the bulkheads built and half
of one side butt spliced together on Sunday, and then the weather
hit.
If your from the mountain regions you'll understand but the temp went
from 74 degrees to 36 degrees in less than 30 minutes, then the wind
picked up and turned into a blizzard. I don't live in the mountains
but close enough to get the weather. Three inches of snow on the
ground in Denver over night.
Luckily I was doing this in the garage but it sure got cold fast.
Does anyone know if that will effect the strength of the epoxy as it
cured? It didn't freeze but I hope a 40 degree change in temp
didn't "shock" the cured strength.
Jeff
of one side butt spliced together on Sunday, and then the weather
hit.
If your from the mountain regions you'll understand but the temp went
from 74 degrees to 36 degrees in less than 30 minutes, then the wind
picked up and turned into a blizzard. I don't live in the mountains
but close enough to get the weather. Three inches of snow on the
ground in Denver over night.
Luckily I was doing this in the garage but it sure got cold fast.
Does anyone know if that will effect the strength of the epoxy as it
cured? It didn't freeze but I hope a 40 degree change in temp
didn't "shock" the cured strength.
Jeff
Edgar:
I was not clever or patient enough to do the pipe berths. I built a quick
and dirty plywood platform for sleeping.
I am now working on Jim Michalak's Caprice.
The Tennessee is really an outstanding boat. I can't imagine how you could
get more space and capability out of less material and labor. The only down
side is the long trailering length. You have to plan getting around, and
filling up with gas can be tricky. We learned to park where the eighteen
wheelers do.
Chuck
I was not clever or patient enough to do the pipe berths. I built a quick
and dirty plywood platform for sleeping.
I am now working on Jim Michalak's Caprice.
The Tennessee is really an outstanding boat. I can't imagine how you could
get more space and capability out of less material and labor. The only down
side is the long trailering length. You have to plan getting around, and
filling up with gas can be tricky. We learned to park where the eighteen
wheelers do.
Chuck
> Chuck:
>
> Thanks for the Tennessee info. Speed is not what I'm after, so it looks
> like I should stick with the Tennessee idea.
>
> - Did you install the "pipe" births as in the plan?
>
> What sail-cruiser are you working on?
>
> Again, thanks.
>
> Edgar
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> - no flogging dead horses
> - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> - stay on topic and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
>
>
>
Chuck:
Thanks for the Tennessee info. Speed is not what I'm after, so it looks
like I should stick with the Tennessee idea.
- Did you install the "pipe" births as in the plan?
What sail-cruiser are you working on?
Again, thanks.
Edgar
Thanks for the Tennessee info. Speed is not what I'm after, so it looks
like I should stick with the Tennessee idea.
- Did you install the "pipe" births as in the plan?
What sail-cruiser are you working on?
Again, thanks.
Edgar
Edgar:
I guess I have about as much experience Cruising in a Tennessee as anyone on
this list. We took ours on trips that amounted to several hundred miles.
One was a trip from Port O'Connor to Port Isabel Texas and back. This
article talks about that trip, but not much about the boat:
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/articles/icw/index.htm
Here is a story about a trip to Lake Amistead. At the end there are some
comments about the boat by my wife:
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/articles/cruising/index.htm
As long as we are at it, here is the story of building Tennessee:
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/articles/building/index.htm
Yes they really do cruise adequately on a 10 hp motor. My understanding is
that the Idaho will handle a bit more power, and is capable of planing. If
you will be cruising on flat water, that might be a consideration. I think
that the string point of the Tennessee is its ability to take chop. I have
had her in 3 and 4 ft waves with no particular concern, and little pounding.
She is long enough to span right across the tops of the waves.
A step sharpie like the Hawkeye would be a potentially faster boat, but
would be a lot more complicated to build and would need a bigger motor
because of her ability to plane. That said, there have been times, on our
Tennessee, when I would have liked to move a little faster than 10-12 mph.
I sold my Tennessee and am now building a sailing cruiser of similar size
(not quite as long). Am I regressing?
Chuck Leinweber
I guess I have about as much experience Cruising in a Tennessee as anyone on
this list. We took ours on trips that amounted to several hundred miles.
One was a trip from Port O'Connor to Port Isabel Texas and back. This
article talks about that trip, but not much about the boat:
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/articles/icw/index.htm
Here is a story about a trip to Lake Amistead. At the end there are some
comments about the boat by my wife:
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/articles/cruising/index.htm
As long as we are at it, here is the story of building Tennessee:
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/articles/building/index.htm
Yes they really do cruise adequately on a 10 hp motor. My understanding is
that the Idaho will handle a bit more power, and is capable of planing. If
you will be cruising on flat water, that might be a consideration. I think
that the string point of the Tennessee is its ability to take chop. I have
had her in 3 and 4 ft waves with no particular concern, and little pounding.
She is long enough to span right across the tops of the waves.
A step sharpie like the Hawkeye would be a potentially faster boat, but
would be a lot more complicated to build and would need a bigger motor
because of her ability to plane. That said, there have been times, on our
Tennessee, when I would have liked to move a little faster than 10-12 mph.
I sold my Tennessee and am now building a sailing cruiser of similar size
(not quite as long). Am I regressing?
Chuck Leinweber
> I'd like a low-power cruiser of the sort Tennessee and Idaho promise; butbetween
> would like to know if anyone out there has cruising experience on a
> Tennessee or Idaho?
>
> - Do they really cruise adequately on as small as a 10 hp?
> - Possible enclosing a bit more of the Idaho - maybe a Tennesse type cabin
> forward of the already enclosed area - without adding too much weight?
> - Would the step sharpie (Hawkeye, for example) be a better choice?
>
> - Bolger recommends 10+hp for the Tenn. and Idaho but 17+ for the hawkeye.
> Does the latter need that much more power, or is it just assumed that the
> owner will want to go faster in a boat like hawkeye?
>
> I've built a half-dozen Bolger sailboats from Brick to AS-19 and in
> but have never done anything with power boats - so I lack any kind of
> practical experience in judging designs. (I'm getting old and am looking
> for an easier time of it out on the water.)
>
> Thanks.
>
> Edgar Williams
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> - no flogging dead horses
> - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> - stay on topic and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
>
>
>
I'd like a low-power cruiser of the sort Tennessee and Idaho promise; but
would like to know if anyone out there has cruising experience on a
Tennessee or Idaho?
- Do they really cruise adequately on as small as a 10 hp?
- Possible enclosing a bit more of the Idaho - maybe a Tennesse type cabin
forward of the already enclosed area - without adding too much weight?
- Would the step sharpie (Hawkeye, for example) be a better choice?
- Bolger recommends 10+hp for the Tenn. and Idaho but 17+ for the hawkeye.
Does the latter need that much more power, or is it just assumed that the
owner will want to go faster in a boat like hawkeye?
I've built a half-dozen Bolger sailboats from Brick to AS-19 and in between
but have never done anything with power boats - so I lack any kind of
practical experience in judging designs. (I'm getting old and am looking
for an easier time of it out on the water.)
Thanks.
Edgar Williams
would like to know if anyone out there has cruising experience on a
Tennessee or Idaho?
- Do they really cruise adequately on as small as a 10 hp?
- Possible enclosing a bit more of the Idaho - maybe a Tennesse type cabin
forward of the already enclosed area - without adding too much weight?
- Would the step sharpie (Hawkeye, for example) be a better choice?
- Bolger recommends 10+hp for the Tenn. and Idaho but 17+ for the hawkeye.
Does the latter need that much more power, or is it just assumed that the
owner will want to go faster in a boat like hawkeye?
I've built a half-dozen Bolger sailboats from Brick to AS-19 and in between
but have never done anything with power boats - so I lack any kind of
practical experience in judging designs. (I'm getting old and am looking
for an easier time of it out on the water.)
Thanks.
Edgar Williams
Jerry Van Dyke sent me some new photo's of his Tennessee:
He is building from the Duck Flat version. Here is a case of one
designer "improving" on another. Phil Bolger did the original design years
ago. A number were built to those plans, including mine:
It was only a matter of time before someone had to have standing headroom,
and the taller version was born. Quite a few of these have been
built in Oz, as Tim will attest, and has documented:
In this case, the people at Duck Flat give PCB credit for the design even
thought it has been considerably altered:
I thought the original was a great camp cruiser as designed. It was
quite efficient and practically immune to rough water in spite of its light
scantlings. I do hear good reports, however, about the Australian
version. It will be interesting to hear Jerry's performance reports.