Re: Joing modular boat sections.
Hi Bruce,
I like your sketch for a modular canal boat however it would
appear that you have forgotten to add a section for a nice cosy WC
complete with tub and shower.
As to joining the sections;since your sketch appears to show a
boat most suitable for canal and river travel I would go with some
fine s/s threaded rod( 7/8") passing through the four corners formed
by the sectional rectangle about two feet above the LWL and secured
through one foot square 1/4" s/s backing plates.To further beef up the
joint(s),I would then go with some heavy 4X8 lumber,in 4 foot lenghts
placed horizontally,on the outside of the hull,with one at 1 foot
above the LWL and the other placed at near sheer height.Their fore and
aft ends would be tapered to finish flush with the hull.These would be
also bolted through with at least 7/8" s/s rod( you could use some
gunk like Bulldog caulking to make the lower bolts watertight) and
would not only strenghten the joint but serve as great fenders when
going through locks or just spending the night at a gov't warf.
If each module is stoutly built,this rig should hold together
well enough for the type of wave action likely to occur in canals or
small rivers.Should a(big)lake crossing be envisioned,choose your
weather and stay put if things look too rough.Besides,with such a
wonderful bar and BBQ setup,much better to luxuriate in safety then
have to stage a panic party as the sections come adrift.I would want
to be in the BAR module......... please......when all hell breaks
loose......please! please! please!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,riding the weather roller-coaster of freeze-n-thaw,from
the shores of the St.Lawrence.................
I like your sketch for a modular canal boat however it would
appear that you have forgotten to add a section for a nice cosy WC
complete with tub and shower.
As to joining the sections;since your sketch appears to show a
boat most suitable for canal and river travel I would go with some
fine s/s threaded rod( 7/8") passing through the four corners formed
by the sectional rectangle about two feet above the LWL and secured
through one foot square 1/4" s/s backing plates.To further beef up the
joint(s),I would then go with some heavy 4X8 lumber,in 4 foot lenghts
placed horizontally,on the outside of the hull,with one at 1 foot
above the LWL and the other placed at near sheer height.Their fore and
aft ends would be tapered to finish flush with the hull.These would be
also bolted through with at least 7/8" s/s rod( you could use some
gunk like Bulldog caulking to make the lower bolts watertight) and
would not only strenghten the joint but serve as great fenders when
going through locks or just spending the night at a gov't warf.
If each module is stoutly built,this rig should hold together
well enough for the type of wave action likely to occur in canals or
small rivers.Should a(big)lake crossing be envisioned,choose your
weather and stay put if things look too rough.Besides,with such a
wonderful bar and BBQ setup,much better to luxuriate in safety then
have to stage a panic party as the sections come adrift.I would want
to be in the BAR module......... please......when all hell breaks
loose......please! please! please!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,riding the weather roller-coaster of freeze-n-thaw,from
the shores of the St.Lawrence.................
--- In bolger@y..., "brucehector" <bruce_hector@h...> wrote:
>
> This got me thinking and sketching a modular cruiser with an 8 foot
> beam. My crude sketch is now posted to the photo section as pic #20
> on this group.
>
> How to join them in a temporary yet stong fashion? Ideas?
Suggestions?
>
> Yes, I know it's crazy, but what the heck.
>
> Bruce Hector
> www.brucesboats.com
I think I'd try an interconnect like a tounge and groove or spline
joint on the edges. you could make the tounge or spline short enough
so that a rubber bead could be inserted in the groove to make a seal.
to hold everything together, I'd look at running cables (stainless)
inside integral 'tubes' connecting stem to stern. the tubes could be
PVC pipe epoxied down with a union glued on one end and the other
pressed in place. (maybe one along the keel, chines, and sheers?)
turnbuckles could be used to provide tension which would keep all of
the joints in compression, interlocked, and sealed.
the tounge may need to be a couple of inches wide to provide the
rigidity needed. since most of the hulls are laid up from multiple
sheets of plywood, the tounges and grooves could be made by offsetting
the sheets. if you wanted to get fancy, you could cut an angle or
miter on the edges of the external sheets to help fair the joint.
I used a similar concept to build a hot tub. it was 4 X 8 and 4' deep
with a single layer of 2X8 pine running vertically. (the sides were
2" thick, not 8). I used 2 cables (1/4" dia). one about 6" off the
bottom the other about 2' up. it did have some 1X4 trim around the
top, but that was held with finish nails so I doubt it contributed much.
da
joint on the edges. you could make the tounge or spline short enough
so that a rubber bead could be inserted in the groove to make a seal.
to hold everything together, I'd look at running cables (stainless)
inside integral 'tubes' connecting stem to stern. the tubes could be
PVC pipe epoxied down with a union glued on one end and the other
pressed in place. (maybe one along the keel, chines, and sheers?)
turnbuckles could be used to provide tension which would keep all of
the joints in compression, interlocked, and sealed.
the tounge may need to be a couple of inches wide to provide the
rigidity needed. since most of the hulls are laid up from multiple
sheets of plywood, the tounges and grooves could be made by offsetting
the sheets. if you wanted to get fancy, you could cut an angle or
miter on the edges of the external sheets to help fair the joint.
I used a similar concept to build a hot tub. it was 4 X 8 and 4' deep
with a single layer of 2X8 pine running vertically. (the sides were
2" thick, not 8). I used 2 cables (1/4" dia). one about 6" off the
bottom the other about 2' up. it did have some 1X4 trim around the
top, but that was held with finish nails so I doubt it contributed much.
da
>Too solid, unfortunately -- the whole pointAh, yes, I was more referring to someone wanting to have 20' sections built one at a time and assembled later.
>of the Breakdown Schooner (which is my interest
>in all this) is the ability to take it apart again
>when you're ready to haul it out for winter
>storage, or to travel to some distant location.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: futabachan
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 3:46 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Joing modular boat sections.
Too solid, unfortunately -- the whole point of the Breakdown
Schooner (which is my interest in all this) is the ability to
take it apart again when you're ready to haul it out for winter
storage, or to travel to some distant location.
-- Sue --
(now torn between the BDS and the Insolent 60)
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> Build each section, slide together, bolt up tight with epoxyToo solid, unfortunately -- the whole point of the Breakdown
> between, tape the outside joint well. It should be very solid.
Schooner (which is my interest in all this) is the ability to
take it apart again when you're ready to haul it out for winter
storage, or to travel to some distant location.
-- Sue --
(now torn between the BDS and the Insolent 60)
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
> This got me thinking and sketching a modular cruiser with an 8 foot*laugh* Sounds like someone has beaten me to the idea that I
> beam. My crude sketch is now posted to the photo section as pic #20
> on this group.
had for this year's Duckworks contest. :-) Oh well, I guess I'll
use my *other* idea, then.
But bless you for bringing this subject up!
Another way since minor weight additions won't make a big difference on most boats is to make double bulkheads at your section joints.
Make two cut identically at the same time. Attach say a 2" x 2" hardwood nailer to one side of each bulkhead to attach the side panels and hull bottom beveled as needed. While the bulkheads are clamped together, drill holes to take bolts through both panels/nailers at the same time so they'll match up exactly later on, maybe 4 inches apart.
Build each section, slide together, bolt up tight with epoxy between, tape the outside joint well. It should be very solid. On larger boats, maybe aluminum plate can be used in addition to the hardwood nailers. Anything that will make the joint stronger than the side panel materials.
With some planning, the layered bottom can be staggered and cut to fit each section. Overlapped 6 to 8 inches on 1/2" ply layers should be enough for strength.
Doing bulkheads as explained above, it just has to be as solid as a 6" overlapped butt joint.
You can use laser pens and very small pilot holes drilled between a minimum 3 bulkheads all drilled at the exact same distance from the waterline or baseline and a centerline mark. A $8.00 kids laser pen shining through should ensure perfect alignment for twist and level. (Two sets of holes will work, three is even better.)
This method should work very well with verticle sided Bolger box boats.
I'm using this method.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Make two cut identically at the same time. Attach say a 2" x 2" hardwood nailer to one side of each bulkhead to attach the side panels and hull bottom beveled as needed. While the bulkheads are clamped together, drill holes to take bolts through both panels/nailers at the same time so they'll match up exactly later on, maybe 4 inches apart.
Build each section, slide together, bolt up tight with epoxy between, tape the outside joint well. It should be very solid. On larger boats, maybe aluminum plate can be used in addition to the hardwood nailers. Anything that will make the joint stronger than the side panel materials.
With some planning, the layered bottom can be staggered and cut to fit each section. Overlapped 6 to 8 inches on 1/2" ply layers should be enough for strength.
Doing bulkheads as explained above, it just has to be as solid as a 6" overlapped butt joint.
You can use laser pens and very small pilot holes drilled between a minimum 3 bulkheads all drilled at the exact same distance from the waterline or baseline and a centerline mark. A $8.00 kids laser pen shining through should ensure perfect alignment for twist and level. (Two sets of holes will work, three is even better.)
This method should work very well with verticle sided Bolger box boats.
I'm using this method.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Seems like a neat idea. I think you need to decide early on how many
units you might end up with and how many units might be cantilevered
off of each segment, or else you might get a structural failure. If
some unit was always going to be near the bow or stern it wouldn't
have to be as strong, at least in terms of resisting "hogging".
I have considered a series of interlocking fingers with a hole passing
thru, with a round, thick pin in the hole. Might be hard if you needed
to make them all interchangeable, though. THis would be only
structural, there would be bulkheads to keep the water out of the
hull. Alternatively, you could have detachable chine log and gunwhale,
fastened at close intervals so hull units act as shear web.
Unfortunately, when you made it longer you'd have to make longer chine
log and gunwhale. Has advantage that slop does not accumulate.
units you might end up with and how many units might be cantilevered
off of each segment, or else you might get a structural failure. If
some unit was always going to be near the bow or stern it wouldn't
have to be as strong, at least in terms of resisting "hogging".
I have considered a series of interlocking fingers with a hole passing
thru, with a round, thick pin in the hole. Might be hard if you needed
to make them all interchangeable, though. THis would be only
structural, there would be bulkheads to keep the water out of the
hull. Alternatively, you could have detachable chine log and gunwhale,
fastened at close intervals so hull units act as shear web.
Unfortunately, when you made it longer you'd have to make longer chine
log and gunwhale. Has advantage that slop does not accumulate.
--- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
>
> >I think of it as proof of concept for my carrier proposal.
> >Constructed of 20 X 20 sections it seems more feasible and
affordable
> >than a 120' sharpie built all at once. I can build a two car
garrage,
> >so 5 or 6 20 foot square sections could be done over time, and even
> >used as a houseboat while awaiting completion of the lot.
> >
> >Yes, I know it's crazy, but what the heck.
>
> Bruce you are my new hero!
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
>
>
> C.E.P.
> 134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
> New York, New York 10001
>http://www.crumblingempire.com
> (212) 247-0296
>I think of it as proof of concept for my carrier proposal.Bruce you are my new hero!
>Constructed of 20 X 20 sections it seems more feasible and affordable
>than a 120' sharpie built all at once. I can build a two car garrage,
>so 5 or 6 20 foot square sections could be done over time, and even
>used as a houseboat while awaiting completion of the lot.
>
>Yes, I know it's crazy, but what the heck.
YIBB,
David
C.E.P.
134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
New York, New York 10001
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
What are some methods of joining the sections of a modular boat such
as the break down schooner. Sue just mentioned that she had some
ideas to improve on BDS's method, anyone else?
Over at the egoup "Woodenpowerboats" they're proposing a world record
attempt at the "lomgest boat constructed in 1 day". Participants will
bring a 4' X 8' rectangular section to a Messabout and they'll be
joined at the site for the attempt. Cool.
This got me thinking and sketching a modular cruiser with an 8 foot
beam. My crude sketch is now posted to the photo section as pic #20
on this group.
How to join them in a temporary yet stong fashion? Ideas? Suggestions?
I think of it as proof of concept for my carrier proposal.
Constructed of 20 X 20 sections it seems more feasible and affordable
than a 120' sharpie built all at once. I can build a two car garrage,
so 5 or 6 20 foot square sections could be done over time, and even
used as a houseboat while awaiting completion of the lot.
Yes, I know it's crazy, but what the heck.
Bruce Hector
www.brucesboats.com
as the break down schooner. Sue just mentioned that she had some
ideas to improve on BDS's method, anyone else?
Over at the egoup "Woodenpowerboats" they're proposing a world record
attempt at the "lomgest boat constructed in 1 day". Participants will
bring a 4' X 8' rectangular section to a Messabout and they'll be
joined at the site for the attempt. Cool.
This got me thinking and sketching a modular cruiser with an 8 foot
beam. My crude sketch is now posted to the photo section as pic #20
on this group.
How to join them in a temporary yet stong fashion? Ideas? Suggestions?
I think of it as proof of concept for my carrier proposal.
Constructed of 20 X 20 sections it seems more feasible and affordable
than a 120' sharpie built all at once. I can build a two car garrage,
so 5 or 6 20 foot square sections could be done over time, and even
used as a houseboat while awaiting completion of the lot.
Yes, I know it's crazy, but what the heck.
Bruce Hector
www.brucesboats.com