Re: wires inside wooden mast
Susan, what ever you try make sure you can remove the wire and
replace. However unlikely it seems now for the wire to break
eventually it will. To me this would exclude fixing wire in epoxy or
silicone. I would make the slot big enough to fish a new wire
through.
Andy Moore
Nova Scotia
Canada
replace. However unlikely it seems now for the wire to break
eventually it will. To me this would exclude fixing wire in epoxy or
silicone. I would make the slot big enough to fish a new wire
through.
Andy Moore
Nova Scotia
Canada
--- In bolger@y..., "futabachan" <futabachan@y...> wrote:
> > several options:
> >
> > 1) cut slot, fix wires in epoxy.
> > 2) cut slot, leave wires free in it
> > 3) cut slot, put in wires, fill slot with silicone
>
> 4) Build a hollow mast from "birdsmouth" sections (or a square
> one out of wood staves), and run the wires inside it.
>
> --
> Susan Davis <futabachan@y...>
Here is an interesting study done on reinforcing wood with
fiberglass. Very important where you are using through connectors,
like a bolts or a pivot pin...
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/pdf1998/solti98a.pdf
You get quite a bit (up to 100%) increase in ultimate strength.
fiberglass. Very important where you are using through connectors,
like a bolts or a pivot pin...
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/pdf1998/solti98a.pdf
You get quite a bit (up to 100%) increase in ultimate strength.
--- In bolger@y..., "rnlocnil" <lincolnr@m...> wrote:
> THere's always uni-glass. Regular bi directional glass doesn't have
> any straight fibers. THere is a bi directional variant which does,
but
> I don't remember the name and I think the fibers are usually at 45
> degrees to the edge.
> --- In bolger@y..., "Orr, Jamie" <jorr@b...> wrote:
> > Richard
> >
> >snip
> > when making the top light, don't forego strength. snip
> > Not sure you will need the glass -- if you use all wood, every
fibre
> runs
> > vertically, each one contributing stiffness with no excess
weight.
> Half the
> > fibres in the cloth run around the mast, without doing anything
but
> adding
> > weight and soaking up epoxy. An all-wood mast should be lighter
and
> > stronger. Both need paint or varnish, so there's no saving in
> upkeep.
> >
> > Jamie
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rlspell2000 [mailto:richard@s...]
> > Sent: March 8, 2002 2:18 PM
> > To: bolger@y...
> > Subject: [bolger] Re: wires inside wooden mast
> >
> >
> > Ah, good idea. I was planing something along those lines, but
hadn't
> > worked out the detail yet.
> >
> > Top of my mast will be cedar for lightness, bottom will be dough
fir
> > for toughness. whole thing will be covered with 8oz cloth.
THere's always uni-glass. Regular bi directional glass doesn't have
any straight fibers. THere is a bi directional variant which does, but
I don't remember the name and I think the fibers are usually at 45
degrees to the edge.
any straight fibers. THere is a bi directional variant which does, but
I don't remember the name and I think the fibers are usually at 45
degrees to the edge.
--- In bolger@y..., "Orr, Jamie" <jorr@b...> wrote:
> Richard
>
>snip
> when making the top light, don't forego strength. snip
> Not sure you will need the glass -- if you use all wood, every fibre
runs
> vertically, each one contributing stiffness with no excess weight.
Half the
> fibres in the cloth run around the mast, without doing anything but
adding
> weight and soaking up epoxy. An all-wood mast should be lighter and
> stronger. Both need paint or varnish, so there's no saving in
upkeep.
>
> Jamie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rlspell2000 [mailto:richard@s...]
> Sent: March 8, 2002 2:18 PM
> To: bolger@y...
> Subject: [bolger] Re: wires inside wooden mast
>
>
> Ah, good idea. I was planing something along those lines, but hadn't
> worked out the detail yet.
>
> Top of my mast will be cedar for lightness, bottom will be dough fir
> for toughness. whole thing will be covered with 8oz cloth.
Richard
I guess you're talking about white cedar, which I have no experience of, but
when making the top light, don't forego strength. The peak halyard block
takes the pull of the sail to the very top of the mast, putting a distinct
curve in the whole mast in a good breeze.
Not sure you will need the glass -- if you use all wood, every fibre runs
vertically, each one contributing stiffness with no excess weight. Half the
fibres in the cloth run around the mast, without doing anything but adding
weight and soaking up epoxy. An all-wood mast should be lighter and
stronger. Both need paint or varnish, so there's no saving in upkeep.
Jamie
-----Original Message-----
From: rlspell2000 [mailto:richard@...]
Sent: March 8, 2002 2:18 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: wires inside wooden mast
Ah, good idea. I was planing something along those lines, but hadn't
worked out the detail yet.
Top of my mast will be cedar for lightness, bottom will be dough fir
for toughness. whole thing will be covered with 8oz cloth.
I guess you're talking about white cedar, which I have no experience of, but
when making the top light, don't forego strength. The peak halyard block
takes the pull of the sail to the very top of the mast, putting a distinct
curve in the whole mast in a good breeze.
Not sure you will need the glass -- if you use all wood, every fibre runs
vertically, each one contributing stiffness with no excess weight. Half the
fibres in the cloth run around the mast, without doing anything but adding
weight and soaking up epoxy. An all-wood mast should be lighter and
stronger. Both need paint or varnish, so there's no saving in upkeep.
Jamie
-----Original Message-----
From: rlspell2000 [mailto:richard@...]
Sent: March 8, 2002 2:18 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: wires inside wooden mast
Ah, good idea. I was planing something along those lines, but hadn't
worked out the detail yet.
Top of my mast will be cedar for lightness, bottom will be dough fir
for toughness. whole thing will be covered with 8oz cloth.
Cut slot, put copper tube in slot, fill with epoxy, run one insulated wire
up copper tube, use copper tube for return.
Charles
up copper tube, use copper tube for return.
Charles
----- Original Message -----
From: "rlspell2000" <richard@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2002 8:18 PM
Subject: [bolger] wires inside wooden mast
> I'm building a wooden mast for my CLC.
>
> Was thinking of running the wires for the masthead light up the
> center of the mast, when I put the thing together.
>
> several options:
>
> 1) cut slot, fix wires in epoxy.
> pro - easy construction. simple
> con - maybe fixing wires permanently will cause problems when
> mast expands and contracts with the weather?
> 2) cut slot, leave wires free in it
> pro - elminates issue with wires breaking because mast expanded
> con - would be difficult to do this without getting epoxy on the
> wires.
> 3) cut slot, put in wires, fill slot with silicone
> pro - wires sort of free to move
> con - extra work
>
> Any thoughts? Anyone?
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Ah, good idea. I was planing something along those lines, but hadn't
worked out the detail yet.
Top of my mast will be cedar for lightness, bottom will be dough fir
for toughness. whole thing will be covered with 8oz cloth.
worked out the detail yet.
Top of my mast will be cedar for lightness, bottom will be dough fir
for toughness. whole thing will be covered with 8oz cloth.
--- In bolger@y..., "Orr, Jamie" <jorr@b...> wrote:
> There's a lot of support for birdsmouth masts out there, but here's
an
> alternative, from PCB himself. I've put a sketch in the photos
section of
> Bolger 2, under Chebaccos, called Mast section for Wayward Lass.
Excuse the
> lousy drafting. (I may still have his sketch around somewhere,
will look
> for it this weekend.) Try clicking on:
>
>
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger2/lst?.dir=/Chebaccos&.src=
gr&.or
> der=&.view=t&.done=http%
3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger2/lst%3f.dir
> =/Chebaccos%26.src=gr%26.view=t
>
> This was PCB's response when I asked about the appropriate wall
thickness
> for a hollow mast for my Chebacco. It's the same concept he used
in Bobcat,
> so if you can find Payson's book "How to Build Bobcat" it's in there
> (different size, though!). It has the advantage that you can build
it out
> of 2 nominal 2 x 6 boards, which gives you the 1 1/2 inch
dimensions without
> any planing. A single one inch thick piece can be ripped from each
2 x 6 so
> no other stock is needed. It has a 1 inch square hole all the way
up,
> except for the top which is plugged for 8 inches or so. Wires can
be built
> in or added later. It's square to just above the deck, and round
above
> that, so would adapt well to a tabernacle.
>
> My spruce mast weighed 40 pounds when 16 sided, before finishing.
>
> Jamie Orr
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dragoon7w [mailto:dragoon7w@y...]
> Sent: March 8, 2002 12:49 PM
> To: bolger@y...
> Subject: [bolger] Re: wires inside wooden mast
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "rlspell2000" <richard@s...> wrote:
> > Normaly, no problem. However, this mast is design square on the
> > bottom, with a big 1" stainless pin going through it at the
> > tabernacle. As "porcupinefysh" says, the problems with the
> birdsmouth
> > mast are not insurmountable.
>
> Hmm.. Laminated Birdsmouth would seem stronger, And why not use
> the "Tubing Idea" just put a 45 degree fitting at bottom, out the
side
> (Back)of the mast just above the tabernacle, That way your wire
isnt
> being stretched so badly as you lower the mast. This could be added
> to either a Birdsmouth or solid mast in the assembly stage, allows
> for wire replacement / addition, As for the square bottom, just add
> some more "Meat" to bottom of birdsmouth mast, by laminating on
extra
> pieces, then cut your square out.. Just an idea, your mileage may
> vary...
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
There's a lot of support for birdsmouth masts out there, but here's an
alternative, from PCB himself. I've put a sketch in the photos section of
Bolger 2, under Chebaccos, called Mast section for Wayward Lass. Excuse the
lousy drafting. (I may still have his sketch around somewhere, will look
for it this weekend.) Try clicking on:
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger2/lst?.dir=/Chebaccos&.src=gr&.or
der=&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger2/lst%3f.dir
=/Chebaccos%26.src=gr%26.view=t
This was PCB's response when I asked about the appropriate wall thickness
for a hollow mast for my Chebacco. It's the same concept he used in Bobcat,
so if you can find Payson's book "How to Build Bobcat" it's in there
(different size, though!). It has the advantage that you can build it out
of 2 nominal 2 x 6 boards, which gives you the 1 1/2 inch dimensions without
any planing. A single one inch thick piece can be ripped from each 2 x 6 so
no other stock is needed. It has a 1 inch square hole all the way up,
except for the top which is plugged for 8 inches or so. Wires can be built
in or added later. It's square to just above the deck, and round above
that, so would adapt well to a tabernacle.
My spruce mast weighed 40 pounds when 16 sided, before finishing.
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From: dragoon7w [mailto:dragoon7w@...]
Sent: March 8, 2002 12:49 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: wires inside wooden mast
alternative, from PCB himself. I've put a sketch in the photos section of
Bolger 2, under Chebaccos, called Mast section for Wayward Lass. Excuse the
lousy drafting. (I may still have his sketch around somewhere, will look
for it this weekend.) Try clicking on:
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger2/lst?.dir=/Chebaccos&.src=gr&.or
der=&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger2/lst%3f.dir
=/Chebaccos%26.src=gr%26.view=t
This was PCB's response when I asked about the appropriate wall thickness
for a hollow mast for my Chebacco. It's the same concept he used in Bobcat,
so if you can find Payson's book "How to Build Bobcat" it's in there
(different size, though!). It has the advantage that you can build it out
of 2 nominal 2 x 6 boards, which gives you the 1 1/2 inch dimensions without
any planing. A single one inch thick piece can be ripped from each 2 x 6 so
no other stock is needed. It has a 1 inch square hole all the way up,
except for the top which is plugged for 8 inches or so. Wires can be built
in or added later. It's square to just above the deck, and round above
that, so would adapt well to a tabernacle.
My spruce mast weighed 40 pounds when 16 sided, before finishing.
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From: dragoon7w [mailto:dragoon7w@...]
Sent: March 8, 2002 12:49 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: wires inside wooden mast
--- In bolger@y..., "rlspell2000" <richard@s...> wrote:
> Normaly, no problem. However, this mast is design square on the
> bottom, with a big 1" stainless pin going through it at the
> tabernacle. As "porcupinefysh" says, the problems with the
birdsmouth
> mast are not insurmountable.
Hmm.. Laminated Birdsmouth would seem stronger, And why not use
the "Tubing Idea" just put a 45 degree fitting at bottom, out the side
(Back)of the mast just above the tabernacle, That way your wire isnt
being stretched so badly as you lower the mast. This could be added
to either a Birdsmouth or solid mast in the assembly stage, allows
for wire replacement / addition, As for the square bottom, just add
some more "Meat" to bottom of birdsmouth mast, by laminating on extra
pieces, then cut your square out.. Just an idea, your mileage may
vary...
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--- In bolger@y..., "rlspell2000" <richard@s...> wrote:
the "Tubing Idea" just put a 45 degree fitting at bottom, out the side
(Back)of the mast just above the tabernacle, That way your wire isnt
being stretched so badly as you lower the mast. This could be added
to either a Birdsmouth or solid mast in the assembly stage, allows
for wire replacement / addition, As for the square bottom, just add
some more "Meat" to bottom of birdsmouth mast, by laminating on extra
pieces, then cut your square out.. Just an idea, your mileage may
vary...
> Normaly, no problem. However, this mast is design square on thebirdsmouth
> bottom, with a big 1" stainless pin going through it at the
> tabernacle. As "porcupinefysh" says, the problems with the
> mast are not insurmountable.Hmm.. Laminated Birdsmouth would seem stronger, And why not use
the "Tubing Idea" just put a 45 degree fitting at bottom, out the side
(Back)of the mast just above the tabernacle, That way your wire isnt
being stretched so badly as you lower the mast. This could be added
to either a Birdsmouth or solid mast in the assembly stage, allows
for wire replacement / addition, As for the square bottom, just add
some more "Meat" to bottom of birdsmouth mast, by laminating on extra
pieces, then cut your square out.. Just an idea, your mileage may
vary...
If you really haven't built anything before, I strongly suggest
something smaller and simpler for starters. It might actually increase
your chances of succeeding with the Weekender as you will develop
skills and gain confidence. Possibilities (among many others) are
Brick (which can probably seat as many adults, say at least 3 and
Bolger says 4), Tortoise or Big Tortoise, Teal, June Bug,
Windsprint, Elegant Punt or other dinghy, etc. You might also look at
Michalak's designs. If you build a dinghy, you might keep your
Weekender (when you build it) set up on a mooring and just row the
dinghy out to it, saving lots of time. Of course I don't know if this
option is available to you, but a small rowing boat is very nice to
have around and play with on short notice. You could be on the water
this season.
Anyway, I really think you should work your way up to the Weekender
with an easier project or two. I don't know anything about the
Weekender except what I see on the web site, but it doesn't look like
a simple project.
something smaller and simpler for starters. It might actually increase
your chances of succeeding with the Weekender as you will develop
skills and gain confidence. Possibilities (among many others) are
Brick (which can probably seat as many adults, say at least 3 and
Bolger says 4), Tortoise or Big Tortoise, Teal, June Bug,
Windsprint, Elegant Punt or other dinghy, etc. You might also look at
Michalak's designs. If you build a dinghy, you might keep your
Weekender (when you build it) set up on a mooring and just row the
dinghy out to it, saving lots of time. Of course I don't know if this
option is available to you, but a small rowing boat is very nice to
have around and play with on short notice. You could be on the water
this season.
Anyway, I really think you should work your way up to the Weekender
with an easier project or two. I don't know anything about the
Weekender except what I see on the web site, but it doesn't look like
a simple project.
--- In bolger@y..., Paul Miller <esqualey@y...> wrote:
> Hi all,
snip
> As an introduction after that question my name is
> Paul and I just bought plans for a Stevenson projects
> Weekender as a first attempt. I've never built
> anything before let alone a boat! I found this group
> and the discussions are very interesting. Also, after
> I build the Weekender I think I would want something a
> little more substantial such as the Chebacco. We'll
> just have to see.
>
snip
> Paul
> South Dakoa, USA
snip
Disregard this one, misread and thoughts went off on a tangent. romex
still valid though.
still valid though.
--- In bolger@y..., "lewisboats" <numbaoneman@b...> wrote:
> Wrap wires in saran-wrap, after epoxy cures, tear off wrap.
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "rlspell2000" <richard@s...> wrote:
> > I'm building a wooden mast for my CLC.
> >
> > Was thinking of running the wires for the masthead light up the
> > center of the mast, when I put the thing together.
> >
> > several options:
> >
> > 1) cut slot, fix wires in epoxy.
> > pro - easy construction. simple
> > con - maybe fixing wires permanently will cause problems when
> > mast expands and contracts with the weather?
> > 2) cut slot, leave wires free in it
> > pro - elminates issue with wires breaking because mast
expanded
> > con - would be difficult to do this without getting epoxy on
> the
> > wires.
> > 3) cut slot, put in wires, fill slot with silicone
> > pro - wires sort of free to move
> > con - extra work
> >
> > Any thoughts? Anyone?
Another thought, use romex (flexible metal shielded house wiring,
negligable voltage drop a benny) rout out the center of the mast
halfs and epoxy the romex inside. wires are free to move inside
sheathing while outside only adds strength to the mast. Metal is
galvanized too.
-- In bolger@y..., "rlspell2000" <richard@s...> wrote:
negligable voltage drop a benny) rout out the center of the mast
halfs and epoxy the romex inside. wires are free to move inside
sheathing while outside only adds strength to the mast. Metal is
galvanized too.
-- In bolger@y..., "rlspell2000" <richard@s...> wrote:
> I said "center". Meaning, build a solid mast in two halves, cut ahollow
> slot in one (middle, lengthwise) half, and glue the two halves
> together.
>
> Already did the birdsmouth thing. Will probably make the gaff
> ala birdsmouth.bottom
>
> Two problems with birdsmouthing (is that a word?) the mast The
> section of the mast as designed is square.
>
> Also, it goes into a tabernacle, with a through pin, by plans 1"
> thick. Would have to reinforce, probably with a solid plug, the
> section where the pivot pin goes trough.
>
> Also, just thought of something. The pin will be going through he
> center of the mast, would interfere with the wire in the center...
>
> Maybe I should cut a slot in the bow side of the mast, and run the
> wires there? Then, fill, epoxy, and glass over that?
> ...
>
> Anybody know if I need to worry about the different expansion
> coefficients for copper wire and a wood/epoxy/glass laminate?
>
> More to the point, has anyone embedded copper wire in a
> wood/epoxy/glass laminate, and what were your results?
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "futabachan" <futabachan@y...> wrote:
> > > several options:
> > >
> > > 1) cut slot, fix wires in epoxy.
> > > 2) cut slot, leave wires free in it
> > > 3) cut slot, put in wires, fill slot with silicone
> >
> > 4) Build a hollow mast from "birdsmouth" sections (or a square
> > one out of wood staves), and run the wires inside it.
> >
> > --
> > Susan Davis <futabachan@y...>
Wrap wires in saran-wrap, after epoxy cures, tear off wrap.
--- In bolger@y..., "rlspell2000" <richard@s...> wrote:
> I'm building a wooden mast for my CLC.
>
> Was thinking of running the wires for the masthead light up the
> center of the mast, when I put the thing together.
>
> several options:
>
> 1) cut slot, fix wires in epoxy.
> pro - easy construction. simple
> con - maybe fixing wires permanently will cause problems when
> mast expands and contracts with the weather?
> 2) cut slot, leave wires free in it
> pro - elminates issue with wires breaking because mast expanded
> con - would be difficult to do this without getting epoxy on
the
> wires.
> 3) cut slot, put in wires, fill slot with silicone
> pro - wires sort of free to move
> con - extra work
>
> Any thoughts? Anyone?
--- In bolger@y..., Paul Miller <esqualey@y...> wrote:
bottom, with a big 1" stainless pin going through it at the
tabernacle. As "porcupinefysh" says, the problems with the birdsmouth
mast are not insurmountable.
It could be done, but I'm making this boat as strong as I know how.
Means I want to have the extra 15 or so percent that a solid mast
gives you.
me started ranting...
Chebacco is a nice boat, but then again, I'm building one...
> Hi all,Normaly, no problem. However, this mast is design square on the
>
> I realize I am waaay out of my depth here, but
> couldn't you run the wires up the inside of a
> birdsmouth mast fairly easily? Is there a reason why
> you wouldn't recommend that for mast construction?
>
bottom, with a big 1" stainless pin going through it at the
tabernacle. As "porcupinefysh" says, the problems with the birdsmouth
mast are not insurmountable.
It could be done, but I'm making this boat as strong as I know how.
Means I want to have the extra 15 or so percent that a solid mast
gives you.
> I must admit the cat yawl rig didn't catch myThe cat yawl has some distinct advantages over the sloop. Don't get
> fancy immediately, but the more I look at the Chebacco
> the more I like the lines.
me started ranting...
Chebacco is a nice boat, but then again, I'm building one...
> Paul
> South Dakoa, USA
> --- rlspell2000 <richard@s...> wrote:
> > I'm building a wooden mast for my CLC.
> >
> > Was thinking of running the wires for the masthead
> > light up the
> > center of the mast, when I put the thing together.
> >
> > several options:
> >
> > 1) cut slot, fix wires in epoxy.
> > pro - easy construction. simple
> > con - maybe fixing wires permanently will cause
> > problems when
> > mast expands and contracts with the weather?
> > 2) cut slot, leave wires free in it
> > pro - elminates issue with wires breaking
> > because mast expanded
> > con - would be difficult to do this without
> > getting epoxy on the
> > wires.
> > 3) cut slot, put in wires, fill slot with silicone
> > pro - wires sort of free to move
> > con - extra work
> >
> > Any thoughts? Anyone?
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email!
>http://mail.yahoo.com/
Hi all,
I realize I am waaay out of my depth here, but
couldn't you run the wires up the inside of a
birdsmouth mast fairly easily? Is there a reason why
you wouldn't recommend that for mast construction?
As an introduction after that question my name is
Paul and I just bought plans for a Stevenson projects
Weekender as a first attempt. I've never built
anything before let alone a boat! I found this group
and the discussions are very interesting. Also, after
I build the Weekender I think I would want something a
little more substantial such as the Chebacco. We'll
just have to see.
I must admit the cat yawl rig didn't catch my
fancy immediately, but the more I look at the Chebacco
the more I like the lines.
Paul
South Dakoa, USA
--- rlspell2000 <richard@...> wrote:
Do You Yahoo!?
Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email!
http://mail.yahoo.com/
I realize I am waaay out of my depth here, but
couldn't you run the wires up the inside of a
birdsmouth mast fairly easily? Is there a reason why
you wouldn't recommend that for mast construction?
As an introduction after that question my name is
Paul and I just bought plans for a Stevenson projects
Weekender as a first attempt. I've never built
anything before let alone a boat! I found this group
and the discussions are very interesting. Also, after
I build the Weekender I think I would want something a
little more substantial such as the Chebacco. We'll
just have to see.
I must admit the cat yawl rig didn't catch my
fancy immediately, but the more I look at the Chebacco
the more I like the lines.
Paul
South Dakoa, USA
--- rlspell2000 <richard@...> wrote:
> I'm building a wooden mast for my CLC.__________________________________________________
>
> Was thinking of running the wires for the masthead
> light up the
> center of the mast, when I put the thing together.
>
> several options:
>
> 1) cut slot, fix wires in epoxy.
> pro - easy construction. simple
> con - maybe fixing wires permanently will cause
> problems when
> mast expands and contracts with the weather?
> 2) cut slot, leave wires free in it
> pro - elminates issue with wires breaking
> because mast expanded
> con - would be difficult to do this without
> getting epoxy on the
> wires.
> 3) cut slot, put in wires, fill slot with silicone
> pro - wires sort of free to move
> con - extra work
>
> Any thoughts? Anyone?
>
>
>
>
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Aircraft homebuilders have been doing it for years in glass laminates
with embedded antennas, seems to work fine.
HJ
.
with embedded antennas, seems to work fine.
HJ
.
>
> Anybody know if I need to worry about the different expansion
> coefficients for copper wire and a wood/epoxy/glass laminate?
>
> More to the point, has anyone embedded copper wire in a
> wood/epoxy/glass laminate, and what were your results?
>
I embedded a pair of 16g. plastic-insulated untinned multistrand
wires in the solid douglas fir mast of a Benford Gunkholer using
epoxy and microballoons about ten years ago. They never failed, but I
was concerned about what to do if they ever did. Also, the boat has
never seen seawater. The ingress of salt and consequent corrosion
would be more of a concern than any expansion/contraction problem.
Personally, I think the problems with building a bird's mouth mast
are not insurmountable, and the results would be more satifactory,
porky
wires in the solid douglas fir mast of a Benford Gunkholer using
epoxy and microballoons about ten years ago. They never failed, but I
was concerned about what to do if they ever did. Also, the boat has
never seen seawater. The ingress of salt and consequent corrosion
would be more of a concern than any expansion/contraction problem.
Personally, I think the problems with building a bird's mouth mast
are not insurmountable, and the results would be more satifactory,
porky
--- In bolger@y..., "rlspell2000" <richard@s...> wrote:
> Anybody know if I need to worry about the different expansion
> coefficients for copper wire and a wood/epoxy/glass laminate?
>
> More to the point, has anyone embedded copper wire in a
> wood/epoxy/glass laminate, and what were your results?
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "futabachan" <futabachan@y...> wrote:
> > > several options:
> > >
> > > 1) cut slot, fix wires in epoxy.
> > > 2) cut slot, leave wires free in it
> > > 3) cut slot, put in wires, fill slot with silicone
> >
> > 4) Build a hollow mast from "birdsmouth" sections (or a square
> > one out of wood staves), and run the wires inside it....
Hi,
I'm not sure what type of mast construction is specified for the
CLC but for what it is worth I installed my masthead light on my MICRO
by laying down a full length piece of white nylon tubing which just
happened to match the 1/2" square hollow center left over from
laminating up the mast staves.The little empty corners created by the
placement of this tube were readily filled by the epoxy squeeze
out.Also,I was able to direct the exit points outward toward the sides
of the mast making for easy access to the connectors.
The nylon tubing planed easily as the mast was brought to its final
dimensions resulting in a nice clean and tight fit.
The wires where later pushed through while the mast was laying
horizontal with nothing to snag on.
Hope this helps!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,watching the sun set,from the shores of the
St.Lawrence.......
I'm not sure what type of mast construction is specified for the
CLC but for what it is worth I installed my masthead light on my MICRO
by laying down a full length piece of white nylon tubing which just
happened to match the 1/2" square hollow center left over from
laminating up the mast staves.The little empty corners created by the
placement of this tube were readily filled by the epoxy squeeze
out.Also,I was able to direct the exit points outward toward the sides
of the mast making for easy access to the connectors.
The nylon tubing planed easily as the mast was brought to its final
dimensions resulting in a nice clean and tight fit.
The wires where later pushed through while the mast was laying
horizontal with nothing to snag on.
Hope this helps!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,watching the sun set,from the shores of the
St.Lawrence.......
--- In bolger@y..., "rlspell2000" <richard@s...> wrote:
> I'm building a wooden mast for my CLC.
>
> Was thinking of running the wires for the masthead light up the
> center of the mast, when I put the thing together.
>
>
> Any thoughts? Anyone?
To big, plus, would need to be offset clear pivot pin.
Maybe use some 3/8" ID tubing...?
Maybe use some 3/8" ID tubing...?
--- In bolger@y..., "brucehector" <bruce_hector@h...> wrote:
> For the masthead light on "Riff-Raff", my Micro, I thought of
> building the mast laminate around a length of gray plastic conduit
> before I started the rounding off process. Then wires could be
> inserted after construction and even be fished out for repair if
> needed.
>
> Bruce Hector
> www.brucesboats.com
I said "center". Meaning, build a solid mast in two halves, cut a
slot in one (middle, lengthwise) half, and glue the two halves
together.
Already did the birdsmouth thing. Will probably make the gaff hollow
ala birdsmouth.
Two problems with birdsmouthing (is that a word?) the mast The bottom
section of the mast as designed is square.
Also, it goes into a tabernacle, with a through pin, by plans 1"
thick. Would have to reinforce, probably with a solid plug, the
section where the pivot pin goes trough.
Also, just thought of something. The pin will be going through he
center of the mast, would interfere with the wire in the center...
Maybe I should cut a slot in the bow side of the mast, and run the
wires there? Then, fill, epoxy, and glass over that?
...
Anybody know if I need to worry about the different expansion
coefficients for copper wire and a wood/epoxy/glass laminate?
More to the point, has anyone embedded copper wire in a
wood/epoxy/glass laminate, and what were your results?
slot in one (middle, lengthwise) half, and glue the two halves
together.
Already did the birdsmouth thing. Will probably make the gaff hollow
ala birdsmouth.
Two problems with birdsmouthing (is that a word?) the mast The bottom
section of the mast as designed is square.
Also, it goes into a tabernacle, with a through pin, by plans 1"
thick. Would have to reinforce, probably with a solid plug, the
section where the pivot pin goes trough.
Also, just thought of something. The pin will be going through he
center of the mast, would interfere with the wire in the center...
Maybe I should cut a slot in the bow side of the mast, and run the
wires there? Then, fill, epoxy, and glass over that?
...
Anybody know if I need to worry about the different expansion
coefficients for copper wire and a wood/epoxy/glass laminate?
More to the point, has anyone embedded copper wire in a
wood/epoxy/glass laminate, and what were your results?
--- In bolger@y..., "futabachan" <futabachan@y...> wrote:
> > several options:
> >
> > 1) cut slot, fix wires in epoxy.
> > 2) cut slot, leave wires free in it
> > 3) cut slot, put in wires, fill slot with silicone
>
> 4) Build a hollow mast from "birdsmouth" sections (or a square
> one out of wood staves), and run the wires inside it.
>
> --
> Susan Davis <futabachan@y...>
For the masthead light on "Riff-Raff", my Micro, I thought of
building the mast laminate around a length of gray plastic conduit
before I started the rounding off process. Then wires could be
inserted after construction and even be fished out for repair if
needed.
Bruce Hector
www.brucesboats.com
building the mast laminate around a length of gray plastic conduit
before I started the rounding off process. Then wires could be
inserted after construction and even be fished out for repair if
needed.
Bruce Hector
www.brucesboats.com
> several options:4) Build a hollow mast from "birdsmouth" sections (or a square
>
> 1) cut slot, fix wires in epoxy.
> 2) cut slot, leave wires free in it
> 3) cut slot, put in wires, fill slot with silicone
one out of wood staves), and run the wires inside it.
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
I'm building a wooden mast for my CLC.
Was thinking of running the wires for the masthead light up the
center of the mast, when I put the thing together.
several options:
1) cut slot, fix wires in epoxy.
pro - easy construction. simple
con - maybe fixing wires permanently will cause problems when
mast expands and contracts with the weather?
2) cut slot, leave wires free in it
pro - elminates issue with wires breaking because mast expanded
con - would be difficult to do this without getting epoxy on the
wires.
3) cut slot, put in wires, fill slot with silicone
pro - wires sort of free to move
con - extra work
Any thoughts? Anyone?
Was thinking of running the wires for the masthead light up the
center of the mast, when I put the thing together.
several options:
1) cut slot, fix wires in epoxy.
pro - easy construction. simple
con - maybe fixing wires permanently will cause problems when
mast expands and contracts with the weather?
2) cut slot, leave wires free in it
pro - elminates issue with wires breaking because mast expanded
con - would be difficult to do this without getting epoxy on the
wires.
3) cut slot, put in wires, fill slot with silicone
pro - wires sort of free to move
con - extra work
Any thoughts? Anyone?