Re: batteries, acid leaks
I think the one that was leaking had a date sticker on it of "Jan
01". I didn't notice when I bought it, but they were going to have an
issue about that when I returned it. Boy, it's a good thing the
manager said to give me my money back, I was about ready to blow up.
01". I didn't notice when I bought it, but they were going to have an
issue about that when I returned it. Boy, it's a good thing the
manager said to give me my money back, I was about ready to blow up.
--- In bolger@y..., "meckerberg" <meckerberg@y...> wrote:
> This is not advertised by Sams, but from my experience, Sams is a
> liquidation warehouse of damaged and expired merchandise. I was
going
> to but a motorcycle battery there once. It was exactly the same as
> the one sold at Walmart but half the price. When I looked closer,
it
> was nearly two years past its expiration date. Of course, the full
> priced one at Walmart was fresh. I've heard similar stories from
> other people.
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "rlspell2000" <richard@s...> wrote:
> > Well, I'm returning the Stowaway golf cart batteries I bought at
> > Sam's. After moving one out to the boat on a hand truck, noticed
a
> > liquid on the truck. The battery, when tipped, was leaking acid!
Not
> > good for a sailboat.
> >
> > The other one only leaked a bit from one of the caps when tipped,
> but
> > this one was leaking from two places on the case where the top
> joined
> > the sides.
> >
> > Is this normal? If you parked your golf cart on a hill, acid
would
> > leak out of the batteries.
> >
> > Are these defective?
> >
> > West marine sells Seavolt brand batteries that are the same
> > dimensions as the ones I bought at Sam's, (for twice as much...).
> >
> > Anyone have any experience with theses?
> >
> > Who all uses flooded batteries in your sailboats? Any problems
with
> > leakage?
> >
> > Think I would be ok if I used the West Marine Seavolt batts? Or,
> > whould I pay $200 each and get some gel cell ones?
> >
> > Thoughts? Rants? Anyone? Anyone?
Bolger box boats have a lot of advantages--stable,
high capacity, low material cost. They are not
particularly easier to build than his other "instant"
developed sheet ply designs, however. Pulling in the
sides and bottom on these boats is really no harder
than planking one of the "boxes", and the rush of
seeing that beautiful shape come out of flat panels is
one of the best parts of boatbuilding. In other word,
build the box if that is what you want, not for ease
of construction
A word about Skimmer. She does one thing--go fast
with low power. As I have said before on this site, I
built one because I had the motor--now the motor is
shot, and I will give the hull to anyone who wants
her. Skimmer is fine to do what she is designed for,
but is, in my opinion, a boat of very limited utility
for anything other than zooming around the lake.
Sam
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high capacity, low material cost. They are not
particularly easier to build than his other "instant"
developed sheet ply designs, however. Pulling in the
sides and bottom on these boats is really no harder
than planking one of the "boxes", and the rush of
seeing that beautiful shape come out of flat panels is
one of the best parts of boatbuilding. In other word,
build the box if that is what you want, not for ease
of construction
A word about Skimmer. She does one thing--go fast
with low power. As I have said before on this site, I
built one because I had the motor--now the motor is
shot, and I will give the hull to anyone who wants
her. Skimmer is fine to do what she is designed for,
but is, in my opinion, a boat of very limited utility
for anything other than zooming around the lake.
Sam
>__________________________________________________
> Ah, great, now ther are more designs to consider.
> Well, I guess I would like something that could be
> used with a motor, oars and last priority a sail.
> So for that I saw the Teal and the Surf. They look
> great and therefore I thought difficult to build.
> What is said is that the are not hard. Then I saw
> the Nymph and the Skimmer. Skimmer looks easier
> and, well, fun. Looks like it may require calmer
> water than the Nymph. Nymph has beautiful lines for
> a small practical boat...therefore harder to build?
> Thanks for entertaining my beginner questions and
> thoughts.
> Bob
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This is not advertised by Sams, but from my experience, Sams is a
liquidation warehouse of damaged and expired merchandise. I was going
to but a motorcycle battery there once. It was exactly the same as
the one sold at Walmart but half the price. When I looked closer, it
was nearly two years past its expiration date. Of course, the full
priced one at Walmart was fresh. I've heard similar stories from
other people.
liquidation warehouse of damaged and expired merchandise. I was going
to but a motorcycle battery there once. It was exactly the same as
the one sold at Walmart but half the price. When I looked closer, it
was nearly two years past its expiration date. Of course, the full
priced one at Walmart was fresh. I've heard similar stories from
other people.
--- In bolger@y..., "rlspell2000" <richard@s...> wrote:
> Well, I'm returning the Stowaway golf cart batteries I bought at
> Sam's. After moving one out to the boat on a hand truck, noticed a
> liquid on the truck. The battery, when tipped, was leaking acid! Not
> good for a sailboat.
>
> The other one only leaked a bit from one of the caps when tipped,
but
> this one was leaking from two places on the case where the top
joined
> the sides.
>
> Is this normal? If you parked your golf cart on a hill, acid would
> leak out of the batteries.
>
> Are these defective?
>
> West marine sells Seavolt brand batteries that are the same
> dimensions as the ones I bought at Sam's, (for twice as much...).
>
> Anyone have any experience with theses?
>
> Who all uses flooded batteries in your sailboats? Any problems with
> leakage?
>
> Think I would be ok if I used the West Marine Seavolt batts? Or,
> whould I pay $200 each and get some gel cell ones?
>
> Thoughts? Rants? Anyone? Anyone?
Amen--and, in my opinion, a prettier and more useful
boat than the Brick.
--- James Fuller <james@...> wrote:
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boat than the Brick.
--- James Fuller <james@...> wrote:
> When I first decided to build a boat I spent a lot__________________________________________________
> of time
> on the web, bought several boat plans, and several
> books. The best purchase that I made in that time
> was the plans for Dave
> Carnell's plans for the $200.00 boat.
>
> I wound up building that boat. It is everythinng
> that a first
> time builder would want as I see it.
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On Wed, 20 Mar 2002, rnlocnil wrote:
the starboard quarter (we had to add a little appurtenance--what Bolger
would call an excresence) on the gunwhale to make it work.
It was fine and fun, although the engine is very light, it is also very
noisy. I built a funky outboard mount that put the Tanaka where the
rudder should go, with a long tiller. I built it a little low, keeping
the engine head below the hull line, to keep noise down. I built it too
low, and the 1-2 foot waves we had on test day threatened to drown the
motor. I've seen where people can put a plastic tube on the OB, to keep
air available when the waves pick up a but, but couldn't figure out how to
do it.
However, the hull was very easily driven, and while my wife my qualify as
a "light adult", I certainly do not.
> Teal is nice, but I bet it would be bad with a motor too, tho eitherMy wife and I have motored around in our Teal. We put a Tanaka 1.2hp on
> of these might be ok with an electric motor with long cables and the
> battery in the middle. Teal won't carry nearly as much as a Brick.
> Maybe two light people is my impression?
the starboard quarter (we had to add a little appurtenance--what Bolger
would call an excresence) on the gunwhale to make it work.
It was fine and fun, although the engine is very light, it is also very
noisy. I built a funky outboard mount that put the Tanaka where the
rudder should go, with a long tiller. I built it a little low, keeping
the engine head below the hull line, to keep noise down. I built it too
low, and the 1-2 foot waves we had on test day threatened to drown the
motor. I've seen where people can put a plastic tube on the OB, to keep
air available when the waves pick up a but, but couldn't figure out how to
do it.
However, the hull was very easily driven, and while my wife my qualify as
a "light adult", I certainly do not.
Hi -
I found that my second boat went together much better than my first
boat. Therefore, I suggest that you forget about the idea of
building a first boat. Start with your second boat!
Mike
I found that my second boat went together much better than my first
boat. Therefore, I suggest that you forget about the idea of
building a first boat. Start with your second boat!
Mike
I discovered while building my last boat (a flat-bottomed 13' pram) that my
plywood supplier charged very little extra to cut standard sheets of plywood
into rectangular pieces, to the dimensions I specified. It saved me a few
long straight cuts and it was easier to handle the smaller sheets.
Just an idea...
Howard
plywood supplier charged very little extra to cut standard sheets of plywood
into rectangular pieces, to the dimensions I specified. It saved me a few
long straight cuts and it was easier to handle the smaller sheets.
Just an idea...
Howard
> Bob --[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> The nymph requires a little more messing around with glass and epoxy
> than teal, surf, or brick.
>
> The teal is a snap. All straight cuts! First time build for me, and
> very nearly the first carpentry project of my life and I had a hull
> ready for painting in two days!
>
Dealing with curves.
easy. saw just outside the lines (fudge factor) use a block plane to
plane down to your marks. It then goes together very easily. Any
gaps can be smoothed out with goop.
The hardest part of building Nymph was ripping the gunwales. I did
not make them too wide and had issues with the oarlock sockets coming
out. I then added some beef to the area with no failures. Spend the
extra $10 on bronze rowlocks and sockets. They look great for easy
money.
David Jost
easy. saw just outside the lines (fudge factor) use a block plane to
plane down to your marks. It then goes together very easily. Any
gaps can be smoothed out with goop.
The hardest part of building Nymph was ripping the gunwales. I did
not make them too wide and had issues with the oarlock sockets coming
out. I then added some beef to the area with no failures. Spend the
extra $10 on bronze rowlocks and sockets. They look great for easy
money.
David Jost
I bet a Nymph would be truly awful with a motor. It's a very nice
little rowboat, tho not fast because it's short. It's said to
be tender as a sailing boat. Probably more work to finish than those
others, a lot of taping and playing with goo. I finished a Nymph that
someone else started. Rows ok with two large people on board, might
take 3rd around small harbor.
Teal is nice, but I bet it would be bad with a motor too, tho either
of these might be ok with an electric motor with long cables and the
battery in the middle. Teal won't carry nearly as much as a Brick.
Maybe two light people is my impression?
The Brick sails well, it's conceiveable that it's ok with a small
motor, but is a little awkward to row, though possible based on my
experiences with one.
Pointy skiff might also be considered. The plans in the book look
simple enough. As I recall, Bolger says it does ok with motor, sails
sort of ok, and rows ok with one person on board. Would expect it to
carry more than Nymph and Teal, considerably less than Brick.
Did anyone mention the Elegant Punt? It just goes on and on. And we
haven't even gone into the Michalak boats, like Piccup Squared,
Mayfly 12, QT Skiff, or Toots. But pending more info on desired use, I
still vote for Brick.
little rowboat, tho not fast because it's short. It's said to
be tender as a sailing boat. Probably more work to finish than those
others, a lot of taping and playing with goo. I finished a Nymph that
someone else started. Rows ok with two large people on board, might
take 3rd around small harbor.
Teal is nice, but I bet it would be bad with a motor too, tho either
of these might be ok with an electric motor with long cables and the
battery in the middle. Teal won't carry nearly as much as a Brick.
Maybe two light people is my impression?
The Brick sails well, it's conceiveable that it's ok with a small
motor, but is a little awkward to row, though possible based on my
experiences with one.
Pointy skiff might also be considered. The plans in the book look
simple enough. As I recall, Bolger says it does ok with motor, sails
sort of ok, and rows ok with one person on board. Would expect it to
carry more than Nymph and Teal, considerably less than Brick.
Did anyone mention the Elegant Punt? It just goes on and on. And we
haven't even gone into the Michalak boats, like Piccup Squared,
Mayfly 12, QT Skiff, or Toots. But pending more info on desired use, I
still vote for Brick.
--- In bolger@y..., "Bob F." <rfehon@y...> wrote:
snip Then I saw the Nymph and the Skimmer. Skimmer
looks easier and, well, fun. Looks like it may require calmer water
than the Nymph. Nymph has beautiful lines for a small practical
boat...therefore harder to build? Thanks for entertaining my beginner
questions and thoughts.
Bob --
The nymph requires a little more messing around with glass and epoxy
than teal, surf, or brick.
The teal is a snap. All straight cuts! First time build for me, and
very nearly the first carpentry project of my life and I had a hull
ready for painting in two days!
But if I had it to do over again I'd build the surf. It's a little
bigger, a little prettier (dig the bow sprit!), rows and sails great.
I don't know if the 6 inch transom is big enough to hold you motor,
but if it is what a fine and fair boat you'd have!
Don't be intimidated by having to plot and cut the curves on the side
panels for the surf. I was until I had to do the same on the aft
section of my next boat -- a light scooner. Let the fact that my next
boat was a light scooner tell you how easy and satisfying building
the teal was! BTW, the scooner came out great!
Don't delay! No matter what you build you'll want to build another!
YIBB,
Davi
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
The nymph requires a little more messing around with glass and epoxy
than teal, surf, or brick.
The teal is a snap. All straight cuts! First time build for me, and
very nearly the first carpentry project of my life and I had a hull
ready for painting in two days!
But if I had it to do over again I'd build the surf. It's a little
bigger, a little prettier (dig the bow sprit!), rows and sails great.
I don't know if the 6 inch transom is big enough to hold you motor,
but if it is what a fine and fair boat you'd have!
Don't be intimidated by having to plot and cut the curves on the side
panels for the surf. I was until I had to do the same on the aft
section of my next boat -- a light scooner. Let the fact that my next
boat was a light scooner tell you how easy and satisfying building
the teal was! BTW, the scooner came out great!
Don't delay! No matter what you build you'll want to build another!
YIBB,
Davi
> Ah, great, now ther are more designs to consider. Well, I guess IC.E.P.
>would like something that could be used with a motor, oars and last
>priority a sail. So for that I saw the Teal and the Surf. They
>look great and therefore I thought difficult to build. What is said
>is that the are not hard. Then I saw the Nymph and the Skimmer.
>Skimmer looks easier and, well, fun. Looks like it may require
>calmer water than the Nymph. Nymph has beautiful lines for a small
>practical boat...therefore harder to build? Thanks for entertaining
>my beginner questions and thoughts.
>BobBy all accounts the brick does everything a boat of that size should
>do and more.
>
>However, if you want to build something cheap, pretty and has a good
>guide get "Instant Boats" and build a teal or surf.
>
>But if you end up building a brick, I'm sure you like that too. Lots
>of small boats look more or less like boxes (sabot, optism, etc.)
>
>
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
>MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
Ah, great, now ther are more designs to consider. Well, I guess I would like something that could be used with a motor, oars and last priority a sail. So for that I saw the Teal and the Surf. They look great and therefore I thought difficult to build. What is said is that the are not hard. Then I saw the Nymph and the Skimmer. Skimmer looks easier and, well, fun. Looks like it may require calmer water than the Nymph. Nymph has beautiful lines for a small practical boat...therefore harder to build? Thanks for entertaining my beginner questions and thoughts.
BobBy all accounts the brick does everything a boat of that size should
do and more.
However, if you want to build something cheap, pretty and has a good
guide get "Instant Boats" and build a teal or surf.
But if you end up building a brick, I'm sure you like that too. Lots
of small boats look more or less like boxes (sabot, optism, etc.)
---------------------------------
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Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
BobBy all accounts the brick does everything a boat of that size should
do and more.
However, if you want to build something cheap, pretty and has a good
guide get "Instant Boats" and build a teal or surf.
But if you end up building a brick, I'm sure you like that too. Lots
of small boats look more or less like boxes (sabot, optism, etc.)
---------------------------------
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I built Nymph (plans from Payson) as my first boat. I was very
impressed with how this boat handled and how easy it was to construct.
I used AC ply, 6oz glass set in polyester resin, with the center
thwart as drawn. The boat rowed and towed well. I am considering
building another.
I also wacked together a pointy skiff using luan, and fir
framing. It has held up for 15 years now. The luan has finally
disinegrated to nothing and it is time to burn what left of it
(Viking Funeral). I definitely will replace it this summer with a
new one. It is not the best rowing boat, but is a nice stable
platform for climbing into the mother ship!
David Jost
"avoiding work"
impressed with how this boat handled and how easy it was to construct.
I used AC ply, 6oz glass set in polyester resin, with the center
thwart as drawn. The boat rowed and towed well. I am considering
building another.
I also wacked together a pointy skiff using luan, and fir
framing. It has held up for 15 years now. The luan has finally
disinegrated to nothing and it is time to burn what left of it
(Viking Funeral). I definitely will replace it this summer with a
new one. It is not the best rowing boat, but is a nice stable
platform for climbing into the mother ship!
David Jost
"avoiding work"
> >cute
> > --- In bolger@y..., "rnlocnil" <lincolnr@m...> wrote:
> > > > ....also BTW, if you get the plans from Bolger, he shows a
> > gaff rig
> > > as an option, tho that's getting away from the simplicity. MOre
> > bucks
> > > than Payson, too, tho maybe his plans have that as well....
> > >
Another nice boat for first-time builders is Summer Breeze. It's the
recent winner of the Duckworks Magazine design contest. Simple
construction, but lots of utility as either a sailing or rowing
boat.
You can find out more at
http://members.tripod.com/simplicityboats/summerbreezeduckworks.html
Bill Paxton
Apple Valley, MN
recent winner of the Duckworks Magazine design contest. Simple
construction, but lots of utility as either a sailing or rowing
boat.
You can find out more at
http://members.tripod.com/simplicityboats/summerbreezeduckworks.html
Bill Paxton
Apple Valley, MN
When I first decided to build a boat I spent a lot of time
on the web, bought several boat plans, and several
books. The best purchase that I made in that time was the plans for Dave
Carnell's plans for the $200.00 boat.
I wound up building that boat. It is everythinng that a first
time builder would want as I see it. Furthermore the plans, which include
lots of drawings, some fullsize, and
a literal book on building. There are three sail options
shown, etc.etc. All for $20.00. The following is a quote
from Carnell's site:
"The hull is built "instant boat" style. You make three frames, a transom
and stem and fasten the sides to them. Put on the external chine and the
bottom planking, turn it over to receive the mast partners and step. Then
make a simple leeboard and a kickup rudder of 1/2" plywood and you have the
hull. The bare hull weight of my prototype built of B-C pine was 107 lb.;
built of fir or mahogany plywood it might weigh 15-20 lb. less versus the
Sunfish weight, 139 lb)."
You might want to go to his site and check it out.
http://home.att.net/~DaveCarnell/sailboat.html
James Fuller
on the web, bought several boat plans, and several
books. The best purchase that I made in that time was the plans for Dave
Carnell's plans for the $200.00 boat.
I wound up building that boat. It is everythinng that a first
time builder would want as I see it. Furthermore the plans, which include
lots of drawings, some fullsize, and
a literal book on building. There are three sail options
shown, etc.etc. All for $20.00. The following is a quote
from Carnell's site:
"The hull is built "instant boat" style. You make three frames, a transom
and stem and fasten the sides to them. Put on the external chine and the
bottom planking, turn it over to receive the mast partners and step. Then
make a simple leeboard and a kickup rudder of 1/2" plywood and you have the
hull. The bare hull weight of my prototype built of B-C pine was 107 lb.;
built of fir or mahogany plywood it might weigh 15-20 lb. less versus the
Sunfish weight, 139 lb)."
You might want to go to his site and check it out.
http://home.att.net/~DaveCarnell/sailboat.html
James Fuller
----- Original Message -----
From: "brucehallman" <brucehallman@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 7:51 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Want to build first boat
> --- In bolger@y..., "Bob F." <rfehon@y...> wrote:
> > 1- is the Brick the one? I assume it is for a nice first go at
>
> Brick requires you to be able to read a drawing, translate what you
> read into saw lines on plywood, and then assembling the pieces. Easy
> to do, especially if you have used a measuring tape and saw before.
>
> But the surest, no fail, first boat would be "Teal" because of
> Dynamite Payson's superbly detailed instructions included in his
> book "Instant Boats". He patiently walks you through every step of
> the building process with highly detailed instructions and
> photographs. Not to mention that Teal is a pretty boat, unlike
> Brick :).
>
> Seehttp://www.instantboats.com/ib.htm
>
> Also, check out his messageboard at:
>
>http://www.instantboats.com/wwwboard/wwwboard.html
>
> ...which is full of hints and tips by other people building Teal,
> Brick and the other Instant Boats.
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
--- In bolger@y..., "Bob F." <rfehon@y...> wrote:
read into saw lines on plywood, and then assembling the pieces. Easy
to do, especially if you have used a measuring tape and saw before.
But the surest, no fail, first boat would be "Teal" because of
Dynamite Payson's superbly detailed instructions included in his
book "Instant Boats". He patiently walks you through every step of
the building process with highly detailed instructions and
photographs. Not to mention that Teal is a pretty boat, unlike
Brick :).
Seehttp://www.instantboats.com/ib.htm
Also, check out his messageboard at:
http://www.instantboats.com/wwwboard/wwwboard.html
...which is full of hints and tips by other people building Teal,
Brick and the other Instant Boats.
> 1- is the Brick the one? I assume it is for a nice first go atBrick requires you to be able to read a drawing, translate what you
read into saw lines on plywood, and then assembling the pieces. Easy
to do, especially if you have used a measuring tape and saw before.
But the surest, no fail, first boat would be "Teal" because of
Dynamite Payson's superbly detailed instructions included in his
book "Instant Boats". He patiently walks you through every step of
the building process with highly detailed instructions and
photographs. Not to mention that Teal is a pretty boat, unlike
Brick :).
Seehttp://www.instantboats.com/ib.htm
Also, check out his messageboard at:
http://www.instantboats.com/wwwboard/wwwboard.html
...which is full of hints and tips by other people building Teal,
Brick and the other Instant Boats.
I am under the impression that the Big Tortoise is distinct from the
Brick. Certainly the drawing shows less freeboard. I think, although
it's ambiguous, that Payson is offering either plan at that price, but
maybe someone should ask him.
Brick. Certainly the drawing shows less freeboard. I think, although
it's ambiguous, that Payson is offering either plan at that price, but
maybe someone should ask him.
--- In bolger@y..., "porcupinefysh" <porcupine@d...> wrote:
> I believe that the Brick plan sold by Dynamite Payson is the 32"
wide
> version, which would carry less of a payload (but is maybe easier to
> row?). Bolger sells the 48" wide plan that used to be carried by
CSB.
> Of course, it couldn't be terribly difficult to expand or contract
> the beam of either boat...
>
> porky
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "rnlocnil" <lincolnr@m...> wrote:
> > > ....also BTW, if you get the plans from Bolger, he shows a cute
> gaff rig
> > as an option, tho that's getting away from the simplicity. MOre
> bucks
> > than Payson, too, tho maybe his plans have that as well....
> >
I believe that the Brick plan sold by Dynamite Payson is the 32" wide
version, which would carry less of a payload (but is maybe easier to
row?). Bolger sells the 48" wide plan that used to be carried by CSB.
Of course, it couldn't be terribly difficult to expand or contract
the beam of either boat...
porky
version, which would carry less of a payload (but is maybe easier to
row?). Bolger sells the 48" wide plan that used to be carried by CSB.
Of course, it couldn't be terribly difficult to expand or contract
the beam of either boat...
porky
--- In bolger@y..., "rnlocnil" <lincolnr@m...> wrote:
> > ....also BTW, if you get the plans from Bolger, he shows a cute
gaff rig
> as an option, tho that's getting away from the simplicity. MOre
bucks
> than Payson, too, tho maybe his plans have that as well....
>
If you live near Boston and build one, we can have a Brick regatta. Be
sure to save building clothes, oldest sneakers, and motheaten cap as
appropriate yachting wear.
sure to save building clothes, oldest sneakers, and motheaten cap as
appropriate yachting wear.
--- In bolger@y..., "Bob F." <rfehon@y...> wrote:
snip
> 1- is the Brick the one? I assume it is for a nice first go at it.
>snip
Brick is stable, has incredible capacity, and a lot of room. I have
had two large adults, and on other occasions one adult and my
friends' two very active kids, but it seemed that another adult or two
might have been carried. THe kids prefer the Brick to their dad's
Buccaneer (I think that's the type, a 15' or so glass centerboarder).
It might be a good idea to put in kick-up rudder and daggerboard (this
would not be hard to devise), as hitting a rock in the stock
configuration may not be very fun, particularly if you are downwind of
your launch point (we weren't). If you're really paranoid, maybe
flotation, but it's not likely to flip.
I haven't built one, because one came up for sale locally just before
I started. I do have the plans, and they're easier to deal with than
the book. If you're really short on funds and have good eyes, stay
with the book, but the $30 to Payson might be earned back if it
prevents you from making a couple of mistakes because of the tiny plan
in the book. I think to make it for $100, you'd really have to
scrounge, tho I suppose it might be done. The Bohndell sail (Payson
carries it) is REALLY nice, IMHO, and might be the difference between
liking the boat and not, depending on how good at sailmaking you turn
out to be.
DOn't build a Brick for rowing. Can be done, but not especially fun.
BTW, decent 1/4 ply is thick enough to do the job, and then it's still
light for easy cartopping.
also BTW, if you get the plans from Bolger, he shows a cute gaff rig
as an option, tho that's getting away from the simplicity. MOre bucks
than Payson, too, tho maybe his plans have that as well.
yet another BTW, don't worry about the creaking in strong winds. I
think it's just the mast rubbing on the partners.
had two large adults, and on other occasions one adult and my
friends' two very active kids, but it seemed that another adult or two
might have been carried. THe kids prefer the Brick to their dad's
Buccaneer (I think that's the type, a 15' or so glass centerboarder).
It might be a good idea to put in kick-up rudder and daggerboard (this
would not be hard to devise), as hitting a rock in the stock
configuration may not be very fun, particularly if you are downwind of
your launch point (we weren't). If you're really paranoid, maybe
flotation, but it's not likely to flip.
I haven't built one, because one came up for sale locally just before
I started. I do have the plans, and they're easier to deal with than
the book. If you're really short on funds and have good eyes, stay
with the book, but the $30 to Payson might be earned back if it
prevents you from making a couple of mistakes because of the tiny plan
in the book. I think to make it for $100, you'd really have to
scrounge, tho I suppose it might be done. The Bohndell sail (Payson
carries it) is REALLY nice, IMHO, and might be the difference between
liking the boat and not, depending on how good at sailmaking you turn
out to be.
DOn't build a Brick for rowing. Can be done, but not especially fun.
BTW, decent 1/4 ply is thick enough to do the job, and then it's still
light for easy cartopping.
also BTW, if you get the plans from Bolger, he shows a cute gaff rig
as an option, tho that's getting away from the simplicity. MOre bucks
than Payson, too, tho maybe his plans have that as well.
yet another BTW, don't worry about the creaking in strong winds. I
think it's just the mast rubbing on the partners.
--- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
> By all accounts the brick does everything a boat of that size should
> do and more.
>
> However, if you want to build something cheap, pretty and has a good
> guide get "Instant Boats" and build a teal or surf.
>
> But if you end up building a brick, I'm sure you like that too. Lots
> of small boats look more or less like boxes (sabot, optism, etc.)
>
> BWAOM mind is great bedside reading.
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
>
>
> > I saw the Brick and was not impressed by what I saw, but was
> >impressed by what I read. And I love the idea of an easy boat to
> >build for about $100 if I have heard correctly. Anyway, I have
> >questions Ihope you can help with:
> >1- is the Brick the one? I assume it is for a nice first go at it.
> >2- Should I buy the book Boats with an Open Mind or a plan for the
Brick?
> >I have more questions, but for now this will do. Thanks for your
help!
> >Bob
snip
By all accounts the brick does everything a boat of that size should
do and more.
However, if you want to build something cheap, pretty and has a good
guide get "Instant Boats" and build a teal or surf.
But if you end up building a brick, I'm sure you like that too. Lots
of small boats look more or less like boxes (sabot, optism, etc.)
BWAOM mind is great bedside reading.
YIBB,
David
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
do and more.
However, if you want to build something cheap, pretty and has a good
guide get "Instant Boats" and build a teal or surf.
But if you end up building a brick, I'm sure you like that too. Lots
of small boats look more or less like boxes (sabot, optism, etc.)
BWAOM mind is great bedside reading.
YIBB,
David
> I saw the Brick and was not impressed by what I saw, but wasC.E.P.
>impressed by what I read. And I love the idea of an easy boat to
>build for about $100 if I have heard correctly. Anyway, I have
>questions Ihope you can help with:
>1- is the Brick the one? I assume it is for a nice first go at it.
>2- Should I buy the book Boats with an Open Mind or a plan for the Brick?
>I have more questions, but for now this will do. Thanks for your help!
>Bob
> Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
>
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>- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
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>
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>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
>MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
I saw the Brick and was not impressed by what I saw, but was impressed by what I read. And I love the idea of an easy boat to build for about $100 if I have heard correctly. Anyway, I have questions Ihope you can help with:
1- is the Brick the one? I assume it is for a nice first go at it.
2- Should I buy the book Boats with an Open Mind or a plan for the Brick?
I have more questions, but for now this will do. Thanks for your help!
Bob
Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
---------------------------------
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
1- is the Brick the one? I assume it is for a nice first go at it.
2- Should I buy the book Boats with an Open Mind or a plan for the Brick?
I have more questions, but for now this will do. Thanks for your help!
Bob
Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
---------------------------------
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
In my experience, you can tilt this sort of battery a long way (30 or
40 degrees?) before it leaks. Never from the edge of the case. Of
course if you overfill, that's another story. I understand that
you shouldn't fill them to normal line unless they are charged? I've
hauled mairne batteries around a number of times without any acid
damage to my car. When you think about it, a battery in a car had
better not spill at tilts of 30 or 40 degrees as that is equivalent to
strong braking or cornering.
When I was a kid, I had clothes with acid holes from working on a
tractor and a jeep. Either my dad tipped the batteries further,
overfilled them, or they were not as tilt resistant then.
(We use the batteries to launch model planes. I don't like motors in
boats, or getting the state involved in my hobbies unnecessarily.)
40 degrees?) before it leaks. Never from the edge of the case. Of
course if you overfill, that's another story. I understand that
you shouldn't fill them to normal line unless they are charged? I've
hauled mairne batteries around a number of times without any acid
damage to my car. When you think about it, a battery in a car had
better not spill at tilts of 30 or 40 degrees as that is equivalent to
strong braking or cornering.
When I was a kid, I had clothes with acid holes from working on a
tractor and a jeep. Either my dad tipped the batteries further,
overfilled them, or they were not as tilt resistant then.
(We use the batteries to launch model planes. I don't like motors in
boats, or getting the state involved in my hobbies unnecessarily.)
--- In bolger@y..., "rlspell2000" <richard@s...> wrote:
> Well, I'm returning the Stowaway golf cart batteries I bought at
> Sam's. After moving one out to the boat on a hand truck, noticed a
> liquid on the truck. The battery, when tipped, was leaking acid! Not
> good for a sailboat.
>
> The other one only leaked a bit from one of the caps when tipped,
but
> this one was leaking from two places on the case where the top
joined
> the sides.
>
> Is this normal? If you parked your golf cart on a hill, acid would
> leak out of the batteries.
>
> Are these defective?
>
> West marine sells Seavolt brand batteries that are the same
> dimensions as the ones I bought at Sam's, (for twice as much...).
>
> Anyone have any experience with theses?
>
> Who all uses flooded batteries in your sailboats? Any problems with
> leakage?
>
> Think I would be ok if I used the West Marine Seavolt batts? Or,
> whould I pay $200 each and get some gel cell ones?
>
> Thoughts? Rants? Anyone? Anyone?
> The other one only leaked a bit from one of the caps when tipped,When I was a teenager, I spent a summer working at an amusement
> but this one was leaking from two places on the case where the top
> joined the sides.
>
> Is this normal?
park, and my assignment was to be in charge of a little pond full
of battery-powered bumper boats for small kids. Every morning,
I had to take the batteries off the charger in a little house,
refill the water, and lift them into compartments on the boats,
and every evening, I had to take them out of the boats and put
them back on the charger. An occupational hazard of the job was
battery acid *everywhere*, most notably on surfaces that I had
to grab. And the owners didn't even give me a pair of gloves. :-/
Anyway, sloshing "a little bit" is normal; leaking profusely from
the joint between the top and the sides is not. OTOH, while the
acid is strong enough to be painful if undiluted, it's not so
strong that it eats through things very quickly. We stored the
batteries on a metal cart with casters, which had clearly been
around for many years. It had lots of stains, but no holes.
On the gripping hand, I'm planning to buy gel cells for my boat....
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
My battery is a wet cell purchased from West Marine. As far as I have
ever noticed, the snap-on caps don't leak. The battery is in a
covered plastic battery box, like the ones you can buy at West, which
is strapped into a formed fiberglass tray.
When the boat goes over 45 degrees heel, which is does from time to
time, I'm sure the acid would spill if the caps weren't adequate.
Peter
ever noticed, the snap-on caps don't leak. The battery is in a
covered plastic battery box, like the ones you can buy at West, which
is strapped into a formed fiberglass tray.
When the boat goes over 45 degrees heel, which is does from time to
time, I'm sure the acid would spill if the caps weren't adequate.
Peter
Two that bad sounds pretty useless. They must have dropped
off of the same pallet, 'cause no, they're not supposed to
leak all over your golf cart either.
For a mid-priced solution you might like the sealed AGM (
glass mat) deep cycle types. These days there
are a several makers, but a good look at some a lot of car
guys like is at
http://www.optimabatteries.com/
There's a "Marine" version. Last time I looked, the specs
just seemed identical.
Concorde and Deka are two others people serious about their
batteries use. "agm battery" into google yields the
requisite 10 pages. Besides the "Stowaway", Exide also makes
some AGMs now.
Mark
rlspell2000 wrote:
off of the same pallet, 'cause no, they're not supposed to
leak all over your golf cart either.
For a mid-priced solution you might like the sealed AGM (
glass mat) deep cycle types. These days there
are a several makers, but a good look at some a lot of car
guys like is at
http://www.optimabatteries.com/
There's a "Marine" version. Last time I looked, the specs
just seemed identical.
Concorde and Deka are two others people serious about their
batteries use. "agm battery" into google yields the
requisite 10 pages. Besides the "Stowaway", Exide also makes
some AGMs now.
Mark
rlspell2000 wrote:
>
> Well, I'm returning the Stowaway golf cart batteries I
> bought at
> Sam's. After moving one out to the boat on a hand truck,
> noticed a
> liquid on the truck. The battery, when tipped, was leaking
> acid! Not
> good for a sailboat.
>
> The other one only leaked a bit from one of the caps when
> tipped, but
> this one was leaking from two places on the case where the
> top joined
> the sides.
>
> Is this normal? If you parked your golf cart on a hill,
> acid would
> leak out of the batteries.
>
> Are these defective?
>
> West marine sells Seavolt brand batteries that are the
> same
> dimensions as the ones I bought at Sam's, (for twice as
> much...).
>
> Anyone have any experience with theses?
>
> Who all uses flooded batteries in your sailboats? Any
> problems with
> leakage?
>
> Think I would be ok if I used the West Marine Seavolt
> batts? Or,
> whould I pay $200 each and get some gel cell ones?
>
> Thoughts? Rants? Anyone? Anyone?
Well, I'm returning the Stowaway golf cart batteries I bought at
Sam's. After moving one out to the boat on a hand truck, noticed a
liquid on the truck. The battery, when tipped, was leaking acid! Not
good for a sailboat.
The other one only leaked a bit from one of the caps when tipped, but
this one was leaking from two places on the case where the top joined
the sides.
Is this normal? If you parked your golf cart on a hill, acid would
leak out of the batteries.
Are these defective?
West marine sells Seavolt brand batteries that are the same
dimensions as the ones I bought at Sam's, (for twice as much...).
Anyone have any experience with theses?
Who all uses flooded batteries in your sailboats? Any problems with
leakage?
Think I would be ok if I used the West Marine Seavolt batts? Or,
whould I pay $200 each and get some gel cell ones?
Thoughts? Rants? Anyone? Anyone?
Sam's. After moving one out to the boat on a hand truck, noticed a
liquid on the truck. The battery, when tipped, was leaking acid! Not
good for a sailboat.
The other one only leaked a bit from one of the caps when tipped, but
this one was leaking from two places on the case where the top joined
the sides.
Is this normal? If you parked your golf cart on a hill, acid would
leak out of the batteries.
Are these defective?
West marine sells Seavolt brand batteries that are the same
dimensions as the ones I bought at Sam's, (for twice as much...).
Anyone have any experience with theses?
Who all uses flooded batteries in your sailboats? Any problems with
leakage?
Think I would be ok if I used the West Marine Seavolt batts? Or,
whould I pay $200 each and get some gel cell ones?
Thoughts? Rants? Anyone? Anyone?
I have always used wet cells in a battery box, no adventures so far.
Because of the seasonal use, boat batteries are highly abused. I buy
COSTCO cheap models and accept the fact they are not going to last
forever. I have never had one leak, I think that is a defective battery.
HJ
rlspell2000 wrote:
Because of the seasonal use, boat batteries are highly abused. I buy
COSTCO cheap models and accept the fact they are not going to last
forever. I have never had one leak, I think that is a defective battery.
HJ
rlspell2000 wrote:
>
> Well, I'm returning the Stowaway golf cart batteries I bought at
> Sam's. After moving one out to the boat on a hand truck, noticed a
> liquid on the truck. The battery, when tipped, was leaking acid! Not
> good for a sailboat.
>
> The other one only leaked a bit from one of the caps when tipped, but
> this one was leaking from two places on the case where the top joined
> the sides.
>
> Is this normal? If you parked your golf cart on a hill, acid would
> leak out of the batteries.
>
> Are these defective?
>
> West marine sells Seavolt brand batteries that are the same
> dimensions as the ones I bought at Sam's, (for twice as much...).
>
> Anyone have any experience with theses?
>
> Who all uses flooded batteries in your sailboats? Any problems with
> leakage?
>
> Think I would be ok if I used the West Marine Seavolt batts? Or,
> whould I pay $200 each and get some gel cell ones?
>
> Thoughts? Rants? Anyone? Anyone?
>
>