[bolger] Re: keel anxiety
stefan nohn <nohnmusi-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=1971
http://sites.netscape.net/nohnpages/weight-handling.html
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=1971
>In my
> In the discussion about keel anxiety one part was handling the load.
>day.
> first live as a stonecutter I had to handle loads up to 3000 Kg every
> So a Lead-keel of ~200 Kg (Micro) or 500 Kg (Seabird) is not a bigdeal.
> All you need is a good planing and little sheap stuff.I'm sorry. The correct URL is:
> I have done some drawings and explanations to my web-site:
> See at:>http://sites.netscape.net/nohnpages/weight-handling.html<
http://sites.netscape.net/nohnpages/weight-handling.html
In the discussion about keel anxiety one part was handling the load. In my
first live as a stonecutter I had to handle loads up to 3000 Kg every day.
So a Lead-keel of ~200 Kg (Micro) or 500 Kg (Seabird) is not a big deal.
All you need is a good planing and little sheap stuff.
I have done some drawings and explanations to my web-site:
See at:>http://sites.netscape.net/nohnpages/weight-handling.html<
Most of us will not find news there but if you havn't any experience with
handling bigger loads I hope it will be helpfull.
regards
Stefan
Sent through Global Message Exchange -http://www.gmx.net
first live as a stonecutter I had to handle loads up to 3000 Kg every day.
So a Lead-keel of ~200 Kg (Micro) or 500 Kg (Seabird) is not a big deal.
All you need is a good planing and little sheap stuff.
I have done some drawings and explanations to my web-site:
See at:>http://sites.netscape.net/nohnpages/weight-handling.html<
Most of us will not find news there but if you havn't any experience with
handling bigger loads I hope it will be helpfull.
regards
Stefan
>------------------------------ message 1908------------------------------
>> "david jost" <djos-@...> wrote:<>
>>
>> > Will this work?
>>
>> Yes. Just be careful about point #4. Rob Feeney's report is
>> illuminating on this issue, i.e. having the lead flowing from the drum
>> to the mold.
>>
>> > 4. coat mold with something "waterglass" What the heck is it? where
>> do
> > you get it?
>> Sodium silicate. I understand it might be found somewhere, but nobody<> same weight of my motorcycle (my beloved Morini 500 6V) which hangs
>> here in Italy knows about it.
>>
>> I located a source of lead sheets (1 cm thick), so I'm not going to
>> work with high temperatures nor fumes. I'll cut to shape and epoxy glue
>> the lead in layers up to the required thickness, staggering the butts.
>> Now, the real problem seems to me manipulating the boat after the keel
>> is installed. 187 kg seems not too much, but when I think that it's the
>> from the bottom of the boat, well... I think that my approach to the<was a very easy and safe method, but also expensive.
>> ballast installation will force me to work by laying down the boat on
>> its side, but I'm still thinking about other solutions.
>>
>> Best, Pippo
>Pippo,
>My keel is a ply box, slightly wider to allow for less density, as I
>oured epoxied lead shot in layers (to avoid heat build up). This
>The keel can be quite difficult to move about for one person. I built--
>my keel outside my garage, and made a sled under the keel, then
>used a lever at one end against the ground to inch it about. I
>blocked up the hull and propped the chines to create a clear space
>(easily said but nerve wracking by yourself), then inched the keel
>under and jacked it up end by end with blocks and car jack. All
>very slow but quite precise with care. When it fitted, I let it down,
>slathered the glue and lifted and nailed in place.
>Don
Sent through Global Message Exchange -http://www.gmx.net
There is a commonly used device for lifting and moving heavier
patients called a "Hoyer Lift". Basically a small hydraulic crane on wheels,
it can often be rented from places that provide hospital equipment. I have
thought about using one to lift the keel into place on the inverted hull.
Problem is, the assembled hull will probably be a bear to turn over...I'll
be working with only the 200 lbs that is required for Oldshoe. The Micro
Keel might also be within the weight capacity of the Hoyer lift.- Warren
patients called a "Hoyer Lift". Basically a small hydraulic crane on wheels,
it can often be rented from places that provide hospital equipment. I have
thought about using one to lift the keel into place on the inverted hull.
Problem is, the assembled hull will probably be a bear to turn over...I'll
be working with only the 200 lbs that is required for Oldshoe. The Micro
Keel might also be within the weight capacity of the Hoyer lift.- Warren
Well, I've never built a keel, but I would suggest two things.
1) If the boat is so easy to move around before the keel is in place,
why not move the boat onto the keel instead of putting the keel onto the
boat? I.E., tilt the keel up on some blocks, move the boat over so the
keel is positioned in place, adjust, nail, epoxy.
2) Renting a forklift sure makes moving heavy things easier...
Giuseppe 'Pippo' Bianco wrote:
Richard
Spelling|richard@...|http://www.spellingbusiness.com
SBE Communications, Business Solutions for the next Millennium and
Beyond!
Boat building projects:http://www.spellingbusiness.com/boats/
1) If the boat is so easy to move around before the keel is in place,
why not move the boat onto the keel instead of putting the keel onto the
boat? I.E., tilt the keel up on some blocks, move the boat over so the
keel is positioned in place, adjust, nail, epoxy.
2) Renting a forklift sure makes moving heavy things easier...
Giuseppe 'Pippo' Bianco wrote:
>--
> "david jost" <djos-@...> wrote:
>
> > Will this work?
>
> Yes. Just be careful about point #4. Rob Feeney's report is
> illuminating on this issue, i.e. having the lead flowing from the drum
> to the mold.
>
> > 4. coat mold with something "waterglass" What the heck is it? where
> do
> > you get it?
>
> Sodium silicate. I understand it might be found somewhere, but nobody
> here in Italy knows about it.
>
> I located a source of lead sheets (1 cm thick), so I'm not going to
> work with high temperatures nor fumes. I'll cut to shape and epoxy glue
> the lead in layers up to the required thickness, staggering the butts.
> Now, the real problem seems to me manipulating the boat after the keel
> is installed. 187 kg seems not too much, but when I think that it's the
> same weight of my motorcycle (my beloved Morini 500 6V) which hangs
> from the bottom of the boat, well... I think that my approach to the
> ballast installation will force me to work by laying down the boat on
> its side, but I'm still thinking about other solutions.
>
> Best, Pippo
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> BREAKTHROUGH ALTERNATIVE TO VIAGRA
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> --http://www.egroups.com/ChatPage?listName=bolger&m=1
Richard
Spelling|richard@...|http://www.spellingbusiness.com
SBE Communications, Business Solutions for the next Millennium and
Beyond!
Boat building projects:http://www.spellingbusiness.com/boats/
Date sent: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 00:55:45 -0800
From: "Giuseppe 'Pippo' Bianco" <giuseppe.bianco@...>
To:bolger@...
Send reply to:bolger@egroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: keel anxiety
My keel is a ply box, slightly wider to allow for less density, as I
poured epoxied lead shot in layers (to avoid heat build up). This
was a very easy and safe method, but also expensive.
The keel can be quite difficult to move about for one person. I built
my keel outside my garage, and made a sled under the keel, then
used a lever at one end against the ground to inch it about. I
blocked up the hull and propped the chines to create a clear space
(easily said but nerve wracking by yourself), then inched the keel
under and jacked it up end by end with blocks and car jack. All
very slow but quite precise with care. When it fitted, I let it down,
slathered the glue and lifted and nailed in place.
Don
From: "Giuseppe 'Pippo' Bianco" <giuseppe.bianco@...>
To:bolger@...
Send reply to:bolger@egroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: keel anxiety
> "david jost" <djos-@...> wrote:Pippo,
>
> > Will this work?
>
> Yes. Just be careful about point #4. Rob Feeney's report is
> illuminating on this issue, i.e. having the lead flowing from the drum
> to the mold.
>
> > 4. coat mold with something "waterglass" What the heck is it? where
> do
> > you get it?
>
> Sodium silicate. I understand it might be found somewhere, but nobody
> here in Italy knows about it.
>
> I located a source of lead sheets (1 cm thick), so I'm not going to
> work with high temperatures nor fumes. I'll cut to shape and epoxy glue
> the lead in layers up to the required thickness, staggering the butts.
> Now, the real problem seems to me manipulating the boat after the keel
> is installed. 187 kg seems not too much, but when I think that it's the
> same weight of my motorcycle (my beloved Morini 500 6V) which hangs
> from the bottom of the boat, well... I think that my approach to the
> ballast installation will force me to work by laying down the boat on
> its side, but I'm still thinking about other solutions.
>
> Best, Pippo
My keel is a ply box, slightly wider to allow for less density, as I
poured epoxied lead shot in layers (to avoid heat build up). This
was a very easy and safe method, but also expensive.
The keel can be quite difficult to move about for one person. I built
my keel outside my garage, and made a sled under the keel, then
used a lever at one end against the ground to inch it about. I
blocked up the hull and propped the chines to create a clear space
(easily said but nerve wracking by yourself), then inched the keel
under and jacked it up end by end with blocks and car jack. All
very slow but quite precise with care. When it fitted, I let it down,
slathered the glue and lifted and nailed in place.
Don
jmbel-@...wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=1892
(completed 1991). I've never used any coating on the mold. I have used
common drywall seam compound (contracters call it simply "mud") on a
few corners to get a desired shape. Like the rest of the mold, it is
ESSENTIAL that the compound and mold be dry, dry, dry! When you pour
(I've always used totally enclosed (except for pour hole) molds for
better control of "as-cast" finished piece. Yes, the wood mold will
smoke and char a bit, but unless you're planning to make multiple
pieces, this is not an issue.....just makes the mold easier to remove.
Besides, where's the fun if there's not SOME smoke?
I did as Pippo mentioned, put the boat on her beams end and installed
and temporarily supported one side (now the "bottom") of the keel
plywood. Slowly jacked/blocked/jacked the lead slab up to be perfectly
level with the plywood keel side (bottom). Gooped that piece of
plywood with epoxy and slid the 412 pound foot-smasher horizontally
into place.....add epoxy on top, drop "top" keel plywood on, drill
bi-zillion holes, bang in the bronze ring nails, step back and enjoy
job well done.
With requisite safety prcautions in mind and a modicum of planning,
it's really not that big a deal. I did the entire process on my MICRO
single handed.
We just finished melting and pouring over 5000 pounds of ballast brick
for the current Bolger designed project.....no, not all at once! It
took 250 pounds of common soft coal to cook 2.5 tons. With a little
help from the discharge from an old junk pile vacuum sweeper, you can
"tune for maximum smoke!" All the ususal don't breathe/no swimming in
the molten lead/this is not a toy/don't drink the hot stuff apply to
this process.
Pictures of the homemade lead melter available if interested.
John
works in the paper industry. That industry uses lots of silicate in the
production of mechanical and recyled pulp. It is also used in the
production of corrugated box board, so paper converting facilities may
also be able to let you have some.
or so. The problem is that it is classified as a DOT corrosive and must
be shipped in approved containers by approved facilities which is
somewhat costly. Unfortunately we are not set up to sell small
quantities. If you wanted a tanker load, no problem. A quart is a
bigger problem, though.
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=1892
>where do
>
> >>4. coat mold with something "waterglass" What the heck is it?
> you get it?I've cast a half dozen one-piece keels, one of them being for our MICRO
(completed 1991). I've never used any coating on the mold. I have used
common drywall seam compound (contracters call it simply "mud") on a
few corners to get a desired shape. Like the rest of the mold, it is
ESSENTIAL that the compound and mold be dry, dry, dry! When you pour
(I've always used totally enclosed (except for pour hole) molds for
better control of "as-cast" finished piece. Yes, the wood mold will
smoke and char a bit, but unless you're planning to make multiple
pieces, this is not an issue.....just makes the mold easier to remove.
Besides, where's the fun if there's not SOME smoke?
I did as Pippo mentioned, put the boat on her beams end and installed
and temporarily supported one side (now the "bottom") of the keel
plywood. Slowly jacked/blocked/jacked the lead slab up to be perfectly
level with the plywood keel side (bottom). Gooped that piece of
plywood with epoxy and slid the 412 pound foot-smasher horizontally
into place.....add epoxy on top, drop "top" keel plywood on, drill
bi-zillion holes, bang in the bronze ring nails, step back and enjoy
job well done.
With requisite safety prcautions in mind and a modicum of planning,
it's really not that big a deal. I did the entire process on my MICRO
single handed.
We just finished melting and pouring over 5000 pounds of ballast brick
for the current Bolger designed project.....no, not all at once! It
took 250 pounds of common soft coal to cook 2.5 tons. With a little
help from the discharge from an old junk pile vacuum sweeper, you can
"tune for maximum smoke!" All the ususal don't breathe/no swimming in
the molten lead/this is not a toy/don't drink the hot stuff apply to
this process.
Pictures of the homemade lead melter available if interested.
John
>uses. Check your list of aquaintances to see if you know anybody who
> Water glass is sodium silicate. It has a wide variety of industrial
works in the paper industry. That industry uses lots of silicate in the
production of mechanical and recyled pulp. It is also used in the
production of corrugated box board, so paper converting facilities may
also be able to let you have some.
>silicate annually. I'll look into whether or not I can get you a liter
> I happen to work for a company that makes over 100 million pounds of
or so. The problem is that it is classified as a DOT corrosive and must
be shipped in approved containers by approved facilities which is
somewhat costly. Unfortunately we are not set up to sell small
quantities. If you wanted a tanker load, no problem. A quart is a
bigger problem, though.
>
> Best,
>
> John Bell
> Kennesaw, GA
>
I have a pair of bellows from the woodstove to stoke the fire. I
figure that if Humphry Bogart could weld a propellor for the African
Queen with a fire like that, it might be capable of melting lead.
On the other issue, I am not related to the Major (to the best of my
knowledge). Gr. Grandfather Jost arrived here in the 1800's from Ger.
Uncle Robert Jost was a member of the Mozart regiment in the Civil War
(or the war between the States if you are from the other side). The
journals describe him as "scampering off to the medic whildst holding
onto the seat of his pantaloons" during one of the battles.
figure that if Humphry Bogart could weld a propellor for the African
Queen with a fire like that, it might be capable of melting lead.
On the other issue, I am not related to the Major (to the best of my
knowledge). Gr. Grandfather Jost arrived here in the 1800's from Ger.
Uncle Robert Jost was a member of the Mozart regiment in the Civil War
(or the war between the States if you are from the other side). The
journals describe him as "scampering off to the medic whildst holding
onto the seat of his pantaloons" during one of the battles.
David:
The only thing I can add is that your fire would benefit from some positive
ventilation. You can use a vacuum cleaner on reverse, or some other kind of
blower. Lead a sacrificial piece of 1 1/2" or 2" pipe up close to the air
intake, and be ready to adjust the flow of air to its optimum rate. You can
melt and cast Aluminum with this set-up. You will need a more robust mold
for that, though.
Chuck Leinweber
Duckworks Magazine
http://www.hilconet.com/~dworksmg
The only thing I can add is that your fire would benefit from some positive
ventilation. You can use a vacuum cleaner on reverse, or some other kind of
blower. Lead a sacrificial piece of 1 1/2" or 2" pipe up close to the air
intake, and be ready to adjust the flow of air to its optimum rate. You can
melt and cast Aluminum with this set-up. You will need a more robust mold
for that, though.
Chuck Leinweber
Duckworks Magazine
http://www.hilconet.com/~dworksmg
----- Original Message -----
From: David Jost <djost@...>
To: <bolger@...>
Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2000 11:53 AM
Subject: [bolger] keel anxiety
> The weather is too cold to build so I am planning the keel problem
> out and making arrangements for the sails for my MICRO. I will build
> my Main Mast during the February school vacation so I can set up the
> stage with power tools and wail away with the power plane!
>
> I need an opinion. ( I know, opinions are like belly buttons, every
> one has them) Do you think this will work?
>
> Here is the plan:
> 1. build a hot fire with charcoal briquettes. (4-5 bags?)
>
> 2. cut an old oil drum in half (prior to building fire)
> and set it up on cement blocks over a hot fire of charcoal. I figure
> about 4 - 5 bags of briquettes.
>
> 3. set the mold (3/4 ply with a rim built around it to the keel
> dimensions taken from the curve of the boat and plans) next to the work
> area being sure that is firmly supported and level.
>
> 4. put lead in oil drum and melt. ladel into mold until level with
> the rim.
>
> 5. let cool and keep small pets and children away from it until cool.
>
> Will this work?
>
> 4. coat mold with something "waterglass" What the heck is it? where do
> you get it?
>
> 5.
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> BREAKTHROUGH ALTERNATIVE TO VIAGRA
> NOW AVAILABLE WITHOUT A PRESCRIPTION!
>http://click.egroups.com/1/619/5/_/3457/_/948426830/
>
> -- Talk to your group with your own voice!
> --http://www.egroups.com/VoiceChatPage?listName=bolger&m=1
>
>
List,
Apologies to those who have already heard this story.
For my Micor keel, I made a mold that made a "billet" of lead 36" x 1" x
1-1/2". It was made of angle iron and held together with 1/4 - 20 screws.
This made billets of about 30 lbs (or so). I found a plumber that was THRU
with a lead pot. It is propane powered with a cast steel pot and burner. It
would melt 30 lbs with no problem - about 20 minutes. My 86 year old father
(lives with us) said that lead will pour into a mold when it is heated to a
point where it will ignite a piece of news print. It worked for the
"Houston Chronicle" newsprint. Make sure the lead is DRY - REALLY DRY
before placing it in the pot!!!! I had old printers lead and some old
plumbing fittings that were lead. Anyway, I made 14 each of 30 or so pound
billets. I had the Micro upsid down with the bottom of the keel open. I
measured each height in the keel cavity and cut a piecethat long and stood
it up in the keel. After completely filling the cavity, I was going to
remove them and reset each one in epoxy and nail into place. I could not
get any of them to come back out!!!! I had some old 1:1 epoxy from a
discount source, so I mixed it up about 1 quart at a time and filled the
voides with the epoxy. It was in there. I never did nail it, I was going to
check it after several trips to the water and see if it needed nailing. I
became discouraged with the project and gave the boat away.
Having said all of that, I would build a Micro keel differently in two
ways. first is the sequence of keel installatiion. Before the keel is
installed, the Micro is WONDERFULLY PORTABLE! It can be turned over easily
by one or two persons and moved about the shop as needed. After the keel is
installed, it must be placed on its trailer and moved only where the
trailer will go and it tends to be taller than the garage door opening. I
would finish the boat except for the lead portion of the keel and bottom
painting. I would add the keel's lead after that. I think the keel can be
crafter with 1/2 of the keel sheathed permanently and the other half of the
sheething just screwed on. When the time comes for the lead installation,
remove the "screwed on" side. Lay the hull on the ground resting on the
chine (padded) and the keel frame, also padded to keep the keel cavity from
distorting. The lead portion can then be installed as several pieces or one
large piece with an engine hoist or whatever. The remaining side of the
keel sheathing can then be permanently attached. The only time I feared
damaging the hull during construction was after installing the lead, it is
necessary to "roll" the hull to finish the top of the boat. This rolling
occurs without the cabin top and other structural portions of the hull. The
sides of the hull were subjected to a lot of strain during this process.
I would also make bigger pieces. I think I did over 80 cuts! Wasted a lot
of lead as lead dust (saw dust made of lead!). Lead does easily work with
most power tools. I used a power plane and a chop saw to process the billets.
As a general note, melting 400lbs of lead is a MISERABLE job!! Keel anxiety
is real. After that process, I was totally discouraged! I did it in June
and July in Houston! I even thot of making the keel from flame cut steel -
using a masonite pattern. It would be have to be a lot larger, but it would
be simpler. They could be made or 1/4 plate, expoied together (or welded)
and then painted with the same stuff that the oilrigs in the gulf are
painted with to control corrosion.
Micro is a marvellous boat! Would love to have one! Hate the lead part of
the construction!
Tim - other Tim in Houston
Apologies to those who have already heard this story.
For my Micor keel, I made a mold that made a "billet" of lead 36" x 1" x
1-1/2". It was made of angle iron and held together with 1/4 - 20 screws.
This made billets of about 30 lbs (or so). I found a plumber that was THRU
with a lead pot. It is propane powered with a cast steel pot and burner. It
would melt 30 lbs with no problem - about 20 minutes. My 86 year old father
(lives with us) said that lead will pour into a mold when it is heated to a
point where it will ignite a piece of news print. It worked for the
"Houston Chronicle" newsprint. Make sure the lead is DRY - REALLY DRY
before placing it in the pot!!!! I had old printers lead and some old
plumbing fittings that were lead. Anyway, I made 14 each of 30 or so pound
billets. I had the Micro upsid down with the bottom of the keel open. I
measured each height in the keel cavity and cut a piecethat long and stood
it up in the keel. After completely filling the cavity, I was going to
remove them and reset each one in epoxy and nail into place. I could not
get any of them to come back out!!!! I had some old 1:1 epoxy from a
discount source, so I mixed it up about 1 quart at a time and filled the
voides with the epoxy. It was in there. I never did nail it, I was going to
check it after several trips to the water and see if it needed nailing. I
became discouraged with the project and gave the boat away.
Having said all of that, I would build a Micro keel differently in two
ways. first is the sequence of keel installatiion. Before the keel is
installed, the Micro is WONDERFULLY PORTABLE! It can be turned over easily
by one or two persons and moved about the shop as needed. After the keel is
installed, it must be placed on its trailer and moved only where the
trailer will go and it tends to be taller than the garage door opening. I
would finish the boat except for the lead portion of the keel and bottom
painting. I would add the keel's lead after that. I think the keel can be
crafter with 1/2 of the keel sheathed permanently and the other half of the
sheething just screwed on. When the time comes for the lead installation,
remove the "screwed on" side. Lay the hull on the ground resting on the
chine (padded) and the keel frame, also padded to keep the keel cavity from
distorting. The lead portion can then be installed as several pieces or one
large piece with an engine hoist or whatever. The remaining side of the
keel sheathing can then be permanently attached. The only time I feared
damaging the hull during construction was after installing the lead, it is
necessary to "roll" the hull to finish the top of the boat. This rolling
occurs without the cabin top and other structural portions of the hull. The
sides of the hull were subjected to a lot of strain during this process.
I would also make bigger pieces. I think I did over 80 cuts! Wasted a lot
of lead as lead dust (saw dust made of lead!). Lead does easily work with
most power tools. I used a power plane and a chop saw to process the billets.
As a general note, melting 400lbs of lead is a MISERABLE job!! Keel anxiety
is real. After that process, I was totally discouraged! I did it in June
and July in Houston! I even thot of making the keel from flame cut steel -
using a masonite pattern. It would be have to be a lot larger, but it would
be simpler. They could be made or 1/4 plate, expoied together (or welded)
and then painted with the same stuff that the oilrigs in the gulf are
painted with to control corrosion.
Micro is a marvellous boat! Would love to have one! Hate the lead part of
the construction!
Tim - other Tim in Houston
>>4. coat mold with something "waterglass" What the heck is it? where doyou get it?
Water glass is sodium silicate. It has a wide variety of industrial uses. Check your list of aquaintances to see if you know anybody who works in the paper industry. That industry uses lots of silicate in the production of mechanical and recyled pulp. It is also used in the production of corrugated box board, so paper converting facilities may also be able to let you have some.
I happen to work for a company that makes over 100 million pounds of silicate annually. I'll look into whether or not I can get you a liter or so. The problem is that it is classified as a DOT corrosive and must be shipped in approved containers by approved facilities which is somewhat costly. Unfortunately we are not set up to sell small quantities. If you wanted a tanker load, no problem. A quart is a bigger problem, though.
Best,
John Bell
Kennesaw, GA
"david jost" <djos-@...> wrote:
illuminating on this issue, i.e. having the lead flowing from the drum
to the mold.
here in Italy knows about it.
I located a source of lead sheets (1 cm thick), so I'm not going to
work with high temperatures nor fumes. I'll cut to shape and epoxy glue
the lead in layers up to the required thickness, staggering the butts.
Now, the real problem seems to me manipulating the boat after the keel
is installed. 187 kg seems not too much, but when I think that it's the
same weight of my motorcycle (my beloved Morini 500 6V) which hangs
from the bottom of the boat, well... I think that my approach to the
ballast installation will force me to work by laying down the boat on
its side, but I'm still thinking about other solutions.
Best, Pippo
> Will this work?Yes. Just be careful about point #4. Rob Feeney's report is
illuminating on this issue, i.e. having the lead flowing from the drum
to the mold.
> 4. coat mold with something "waterglass" What the heck is it? wheredo
> you get it?Sodium silicate. I understand it might be found somewhere, but nobody
here in Italy knows about it.
I located a source of lead sheets (1 cm thick), so I'm not going to
work with high temperatures nor fumes. I'll cut to shape and epoxy glue
the lead in layers up to the required thickness, staggering the butts.
Now, the real problem seems to me manipulating the boat after the keel
is installed. 187 kg seems not too much, but when I think that it's the
same weight of my motorcycle (my beloved Morini 500 6V) which hangs
from the bottom of the boat, well... I think that my approach to the
ballast installation will force me to work by laying down the boat on
its side, but I'm still thinking about other solutions.
Best, Pippo
The weather is too cold to build so I am planning the keel problem
out and making arrangements for the sails for my MICRO. I will build
my Main Mast during the February school vacation so I can set up the
stage with power tools and wail away with the power plane!
I need an opinion. ( I know, opinions are like belly buttons, every
one has them) Do you think this will work?
Here is the plan:
1. build a hot fire with charcoal briquettes. (4-5 bags?)
2. cut an old oil drum in half (prior to building fire)
and set it up on cement blocks over a hot fire of charcoal. I figure
about 4 - 5 bags of briquettes.
3. set the mold (3/4 ply with a rim built around it to the keel
dimensions taken from the curve of the boat and plans) next to the work
area being sure that is firmly supported and level.
4. put lead in oil drum and melt. ladel into mold until level with
the rim.
5. let cool and keep small pets and children away from it until cool.
Will this work?
4. coat mold with something "waterglass" What the heck is it? where do
you get it?
5.
out and making arrangements for the sails for my MICRO. I will build
my Main Mast during the February school vacation so I can set up the
stage with power tools and wail away with the power plane!
I need an opinion. ( I know, opinions are like belly buttons, every
one has them) Do you think this will work?
Here is the plan:
1. build a hot fire with charcoal briquettes. (4-5 bags?)
2. cut an old oil drum in half (prior to building fire)
and set it up on cement blocks over a hot fire of charcoal. I figure
about 4 - 5 bags of briquettes.
3. set the mold (3/4 ply with a rim built around it to the keel
dimensions taken from the curve of the boat and plans) next to the work
area being sure that is firmly supported and level.
4. put lead in oil drum and melt. ladel into mold until level with
the rim.
5. let cool and keep small pets and children away from it until cool.
Will this work?
4. coat mold with something "waterglass" What the heck is it? where do
you get it?
5.