Re: [bolger] Re: Fridges (was: Electrics)
For years I've had an idea that the way to go with refrigeration in a boat
would be to take along a cylinder of compressed carbon dioxide which could be
used to make dry ice which in turn could freeze water. But maybe it's not
practical...
Howard
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
would be to take along a cylinder of compressed carbon dioxide which could be
used to make dry ice which in turn could freeze water. But maybe it's not
practical...
Howard
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
cold a very long time and everybody can look forward to efficient
"disposal".
Thomas Wunderlin
Yellowknife, Canada
>trips
> Here's an idea that's both cheap and reliable:
>
> On many trips to Baja California and On self-contained rafting
> I found it was possible to keep ice cream seven days through thetonight?"
> thoughtful use of good quality camp coolers. The trick is never,
> ever, ever open a cooler unless you know what you're going to take
> out of it, and staging your coolers so you open them in sequence.
> This requires planning, but it also allow you to serve cold beer,
> fresh meat, and ice cream without mechanical refrigeration. I've
> even heard of Grand Canyon trips cracking open a special dry ice'd
> color 2 weeks into the trip and serving ice cream.
>
> It does take some planning. The contents of each cooler have to be
> logged, and you need to make sure that everything you need for each
> meal is in one cooler, and no dawdling "hrmm. chick or beef
> while staring in the cooler with it's lid propped open.One of the best cooling elements are frozen beer cans. They stay
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
>
> C.E.P.
> 415 W.46th Street
> New York, New York 10036
>http://www.crumblingempire.com
> (212) 247-0296
cold a very long time and everybody can look forward to efficient
"disposal".
Thomas Wunderlin
Yellowknife, Canada
Nels:
I have one too, but do not use it, because of the heavy current draw. It is probably a problem that I live in Texas where 100 degree weather is common, and in the summer time not even the bilges are cool. I don't mind the heat, but perishable items do. In a more temperate climate, or somewhere with cool water (we have heard rumors) the thermoelectrics would probably work just fine.
Chuck
Chuck,
According to what I read, it draws 1.5 amps once things are cooled
down. And if insulated really well and placed in the bottom of the
boat, it should keep food frozen in all but the most tropical
conditions. Hundred degrees is pretty warm in the bilges i would say.
And they are very reliable since there are no moving parts other than
a small fan. Like I say I've used a portable one for over 20 years
and the only thing needed replacing was the closure hasp and a fuse
on the 110 converter. I think they would work well on a small boat.
Much less hassel than propane which really hates being off level.
Nels
I have one too, but do not use it, because of the heavy current draw. It is probably a problem that I live in Texas where 100 degree weather is common, and in the summer time not even the bilges are cool. I don't mind the heat, but perishable items do. In a more temperate climate, or somewhere with cool water (we have heard rumors) the thermoelectrics would probably work just fine.
Chuck
Chuck,
According to what I read, it draws 1.5 amps once things are cooled
down. And if insulated really well and placed in the bottom of the
boat, it should keep food frozen in all but the most tropical
conditions. Hundred degrees is pretty warm in the bilges i would say.
And they are very reliable since there are no moving parts other than
a small fan. Like I say I've used a portable one for over 20 years
and the only thing needed replacing was the closure hasp and a fuse
on the 110 converter. I think they would work well on a small boat.
Much less hassel than propane which really hates being off level.
Nels
--- In bolger@y..., "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...> wrote:
> Pete:
>
> It appears to be an add-on thermoelectric type. I am afraid that
they are not very efficient, pulling 6 amps (in this case) and only
dropping the temp 40 degrees below ambient. That is not so great if
it is a hundred out. Some of the compressor types draw only three
amps. I think I am leaning toward a propane type.
>
> Chuck
> Anybody ever tried one of these?
>
>
>http://www.askelandinc.com/prod01.htm
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Chuck,
According to what I read, it draws 1.5 amps once things are cooled
down. And if insulated really well and placed in the bottom of the
boat, it should keep food frozen in all but the most tropical
conditions. Hundred degrees is pretty warm in the bilges i would say.
And they are very reliable since there are no moving parts other than
a small fan. Like I say I've used a portable one for over 20 years
and the only thing needed replacing was the closure hasp and a fuse
on the 110 converter. I think they would work well on a small boat.
Much less hassel than propane which really hates being off level.
Nels
According to what I read, it draws 1.5 amps once things are cooled
down. And if insulated really well and placed in the bottom of the
boat, it should keep food frozen in all but the most tropical
conditions. Hundred degrees is pretty warm in the bilges i would say.
And they are very reliable since there are no moving parts other than
a small fan. Like I say I've used a portable one for over 20 years
and the only thing needed replacing was the closure hasp and a fuse
on the 110 converter. I think they would work well on a small boat.
Much less hassel than propane which really hates being off level.
Nels
--- In bolger@y..., "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...> wrote:
> Pete:
>
> It appears to be an add-on thermoelectric type. I am afraid that
they are not very efficient, pulling 6 amps (in this case) and only
dropping the temp 40 degrees below ambient. That is not so great if
it is a hundred out. Some of the compressor types draw only three
amps. I think I am leaning toward a propane type.
>
> Chuck
> Anybody ever tried one of these?
>
>
>http://www.askelandinc.com/prod01.htm
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Pete:
It appears to be an add-on thermoelectric type. I am afraid that they are not very efficient, pulling 6 amps (in this case) and only dropping the temp 40 degrees below ambient. That is not so great if it is a hundred out. Some of the compressor types draw only three amps. I think I am leaning toward a propane type.
Chuck
Anybody ever tried one of these?
http://www.askelandinc.com/prod01.htm
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
It appears to be an add-on thermoelectric type. I am afraid that they are not very efficient, pulling 6 amps (in this case) and only dropping the temp 40 degrees below ambient. That is not so great if it is a hundred out. Some of the compressor types draw only three amps. I think I am leaning toward a propane type.
Chuck
Anybody ever tried one of these?
http://www.askelandinc.com/prod01.htm
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
For refreshments and cold snacks and salads, I have used a Koolatron
for over 20 years of van travel both at work and play. It is solid
state, keeps running at any angle whether using the cigarette lighter
as power or it's own 110 v converter when in motels etc. Also works
well as an icebox.
Just needs space for the fan to operate. If you reverse the cord it
keeps things warm as well. The newer ones have a build in voltage
sensor that shuts the unit down so as not to kill your battery but I
usually have a second - isolated - battery in my vehicle anyway. I'ts
one drawback is that it only cools to an inside temperature that is
relative to the surrounding air, so try to locate it in a natrually
cool spot - which should be easy on a boat.
Used in conjuntion with a good cooler like the Gott rafting models
and keeping them closed as well as only putting pre-cooled items
inside and they are very efficient. Plus you don't loose space to the
icepacks regular coolers need.... Nels
for over 20 years of van travel both at work and play. It is solid
state, keeps running at any angle whether using the cigarette lighter
as power or it's own 110 v converter when in motels etc. Also works
well as an icebox.
Just needs space for the fan to operate. If you reverse the cord it
keeps things warm as well. The newer ones have a build in voltage
sensor that shuts the unit down so as not to kill your battery but I
usually have a second - isolated - battery in my vehicle anyway. I'ts
one drawback is that it only cools to an inside temperature that is
relative to the surrounding air, so try to locate it in a natrually
cool spot - which should be easy on a boat.
Used in conjuntion with a good cooler like the Gott rafting models
and keeping them closed as well as only putting pre-cooled items
inside and they are very efficient. Plus you don't loose space to the
icepacks regular coolers need.... Nels
--- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
>
> >All refridgerator installations on small boats, no matter what the
> >configuration, power supply, or cost, are famous for failing,
> >generally very expensively and at the worst possible time. Keep
that
> >in mind when considering whether you want such gear,
>
> It does take some planning. The contents of each cooler have to be
> logged, and you need to make sure that everything you need for each
> meal is in one cooler, and no dawdling "hrmm. chick or beef
tonight?"
> while staring in the cooler with it's lid propped open.
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
>
> C.E.P.
> 415 W.46th Street
> New York, New York 10036
>http://www.crumblingempire.com
> (212) 247-0296
>All refridgerator installations on small boats, no matter what theIt's my fault for starting this whole refrigerator on boat thing when
>configuration, power supply, or cost, are famous for failing,
>generally very expensively and at the worst possible time. Keep that
>in mind when considering whether you want such gear,
I mentioned my friends lived off the grid with a small generator and
tank of propane. I can't imagine having a fridge on a boat that
suppose to be cheap *and* reliable.
Here's an idea that's both cheap and reliable:
On many trips to Baja California and On self-contained rafting trips
I found it was possible to keep ice cream seven days through the
thoughtful use of good quality camp coolers. The trick is never,
ever, ever open a cooler unless you know what you're going to take
out of it, and staging your coolers so you open them in sequence.
This requires planning, but it also allow you to serve cold beer,
fresh meat, and ice cream without mechanical refrigeration. I've
even heard of Grand Canyon trips cracking open a special dry ice'd
color 2 weeks into the trip and serving ice cream.
It does take some planning. The contents of each cooler have to be
logged, and you need to make sure that everything you need for each
meal is in one cooler, and no dawdling "hrmm. chick or beef tonight?"
while staring in the cooler with it's lid propped open.
YIBB,
David
C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
Just saw this well presented primer.
'Wiring 12 Volts for Ample Power'
Snead & Ishihara
Mark
rdchamberland wrote:
'Wiring 12 Volts for Ample Power'
Snead & Ishihara
Mark
rdchamberland wrote:
>
> Hi David, an overview can't be handled on a message board.
> I would
> recommend that you get at least two books on electrical
> installations
> on boats. "The 12-Volt Bible for Boats", Minor Brotherton,
> "Boatowners
> Illustrated Handbook of Wiring", Charlie Wing. I notice
> that there are
> a couple of new ones since I was dealing with this stuff
> in my
> Hawkeye. I would take a look at Don Casey's "Sailboat
> Electrics
> Simplified". Also read the appropriate essays in the West
> catalog. I
> found them to be very helpful also. I would also recommend
> that you be
> just a bit scared of electric especially if you plan to
> bring shore
> power on your boat when you are in port.
> Bob Chamberland
>
> --- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
> > FBBB --
> >
> > My practical knowledge of of off the grid power is
> limited to a
> > fishboat my father and I ran that featured a 3 battery
> system that
> > provided juice for the instruments, lights, etc. for the
> hour now and
> > then when the diesel motor was banging away and powering
> all the
> > system with it's alternator. Obviously with the motor
> going nearly
> > every minute the boat was in operation, the battery bank
> was always
> > at full charge.
> >
> > I'm a little hazy on how a cruising sailboat, featuring
> a small and
> > presumable not always on outboard would recharge it's
> battery bank
> > after a night of keeping the lights burning, playing
> videogames, etc.
> >
> > A few years back a friend of mine was living off the
> grid and made a
> > nice home with a propane fridge, lamps and candles, and
> a K-mart
> > generator for when he and his wife wanted to watch some
> porn. This
> > seems like a passable, and maybe even preferable option
> to a bank of
> > batteries to keep the light when the boat's laid up for
> the night.
> >
> > I'm not scared of electric and I can understand simple
> schematics. I
> > do get confuse when we start getting 220, 110 and
> 12voltDC all mixed
> > together.
> >
> > Anyone up for giving me an overview?
> >
> > YIBB,
> >
> > David
> >
> > C.E.P.
> > 415 W.46th Street
> > New York, New York 10036
> >http://www.crumblingempire.com
> > (212) 247-0296
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging
> dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and
> punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip
> all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms
> of Service.
West Marine was mentioned before for their informative article's. They
are on line at
http://www.westmarine.com/
At the bottom of the page on the left check out the West Advisor.
Along with the 12 volt doctor, Nigel Calder's "Boatowner's Mechanical &
Electrical Manual" How to Maintain, Repair, and Improve Your Boat's
Essential Systems is real good stuff. One of those books that I go to
because the writer flat out knows more than I do, and can tell about it
better too.
bobffej wrote:
are on line at
http://www.westmarine.com/
At the bottom of the page on the left check out the West Advisor.
Along with the 12 volt doctor, Nigel Calder's "Boatowner's Mechanical &
Electrical Manual" How to Maintain, Repair, and Improve Your Boat's
Essential Systems is real good stuff. One of those books that I go to
because the writer flat out knows more than I do, and can tell about it
better too.
bobffej wrote:
>
> --- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
> >
> > Anyone up for giving me an overview?
> >
> > YIBB,
> >
> > David
>
> Here's something I found using google to search for direct current:
>
>http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/hframe.html
>
> I'm sure there is a ton more out there on the web if you look for it.
>
> Here's one of my favorite links(great for solar(DC)):
>
>http://www.homepower.com/index.htm
>
> Jeff
>
> >In some areas, I'll use the converted (LED) batteryI'm sure we've all seen the simple push on battery lights. Even
> lights with >Nicads that can be recharged with a small
> solar charger. Same for >circulation fans.
without converting them to use LEDs, they will last a long time
with batteries. Converted to LEDs, they'd probably last a month
and be a lot brighter. Solar powered D cell chargers are not
that expensive and can recharge a set of 2 D cells in one maybe
two days. One nice thing about using battery lights is that
there will be minimal wiring and if you leave one on, the worse
you have after a week is a set of dead Nicad batteries.
> Will the LED be able to run off solar charged nicad, marineThe LED running and a select few cabin lights I'm going to make
> alternator, battery bank, or generator depending on need?
up will run off the battery banks.
> Does the generator put out 12v power or 110 and then thatI'll have two chargers. One with the 12V marine alternator and
> gets coverted into something that can juice your
> battery bank.
a 120VAC battery charger that can be used with shore power or
the backup 115V gas generator.
> What about equipment like camcorders, laptops (my wife'sI'll wire in a heavy extension cord for the washer which is the
> computer is your wife's washer,) etc. None of them actually
> use 110, but they're all wired for it. Is there some better
> way for places you don't have a 110 system?
only 120VAC appliance we will have. It'll plug directly into
the generator.
Most will be 12V appliances, including the TV, Microwave, on
demand hot water, pumps, etc.
Anything else like a PC will run on a inverter which takes 12VDC
to 120VAC. You can buy laptop inverters for about $59.00.
Jeff
--- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/hframe.html
I'm sure there is a ton more out there on the web if you look for it.
Here's one of my favorite links(great for solar(DC)):
http://www.homepower.com/index.htm
Jeff
>Here's something I found using google to search for direct current:
> Anyone up for giving me an overview?
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/hframe.html
I'm sure there is a ton more out there on the web if you look for it.
Here's one of my favorite links(great for solar(DC)):
http://www.homepower.com/index.htm
Jeff
-- In bolger@y..., "ellengaestboatbuildingcom" <ellengaest@b...>
wrote:
....I
successfully voyaged with propane or kerosene (paraffin)
refridgerators. Eric Hiscock used a gimbled kerosene model. Details on
its use are in his _Cruising Under Sail_. More recently, in the '80s,
Dan Spurr used a propane model, not gimbled, in his Pearson Triton.
Details on that are in his _Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat_.
Still, Peter's statement is more-or-less correct, in that such reefers
do not like the motion (especially the heeling) of monohull sailboats.
They can be more easily adapted to multihulls, especially cruising
catamarans, where heeling is limited to about five degrees. The other
factor limiting their use is that they are designed for home use, and
thus are more vulnerable to the corrosive effects of the marine
environment. They aren't particularly cheap anymore, either, except
when compared with the marine alternatives.
An engine-driven compressor-holding plate unit just cannot be used in
an outboard-powered boat like the Insolent 60. This is unfortunate,
because such units are regarded as the most reliable and
efficient--and also the most expensive to install and repair.
An electric reefer can be powered by a battery bank recharged with
solar panels, but it has to be a really well insulated box coupled
with a high-quality, efficient compressor/evaporator. The nicest thing
about having the really well insulated box is that it will work fine
as a plain old ice box when the compressor fails--which it certainly
will.
All refridgerator installations on small boats, no matter what the
configuration, power supply, or cost, are famous for failing,
generally very expensively and at the worst possible time. Keep that
in mind when considering whether you want such gear,
porky
-
wrote:
....I
> can say that the propane fridge idea,on a sail boat,is notrecommended
> as the healing will either trigger the auto-shutoff or set thingsIt should be noted that a number of pretty competent sailers have
> afire.
successfully voyaged with propane or kerosene (paraffin)
refridgerators. Eric Hiscock used a gimbled kerosene model. Details on
its use are in his _Cruising Under Sail_. More recently, in the '80s,
Dan Spurr used a propane model, not gimbled, in his Pearson Triton.
Details on that are in his _Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat_.
Still, Peter's statement is more-or-less correct, in that such reefers
do not like the motion (especially the heeling) of monohull sailboats.
They can be more easily adapted to multihulls, especially cruising
catamarans, where heeling is limited to about five degrees. The other
factor limiting their use is that they are designed for home use, and
thus are more vulnerable to the corrosive effects of the marine
environment. They aren't particularly cheap anymore, either, except
when compared with the marine alternatives.
An engine-driven compressor-holding plate unit just cannot be used in
an outboard-powered boat like the Insolent 60. This is unfortunate,
because such units are regarded as the most reliable and
efficient--and also the most expensive to install and repair.
An electric reefer can be powered by a battery bank recharged with
solar panels, but it has to be a really well insulated box coupled
with a high-quality, efficient compressor/evaporator. The nicest thing
about having the really well insulated box is that it will work fine
as a plain old ice box when the compressor fails--which it certainly
will.
All refridgerator installations on small boats, no matter what the
configuration, power supply, or cost, are famous for failing,
generally very expensively and at the worst possible time. Keep that
in mind when considering whether you want such gear,
porky
-
Hi David, an overview can't be handled on a message board. I would
recommend that you get at least two books on electrical installations
on boats. "The 12-Volt Bible for Boats", Minor Brotherton, "Boatowners
Illustrated Handbook of Wiring", Charlie Wing. I notice that there are
a couple of new ones since I was dealing with this stuff in my
Hawkeye. I would take a look at Don Casey's "Sailboat Electrics
Simplified". Also read the appropriate essays in the West catalog. I
found them to be very helpful also. I would also recommend that you be
just a bit scared of electric especially if you plan to bring shore
power on your boat when you are in port.
Bob Chamberland
recommend that you get at least two books on electrical installations
on boats. "The 12-Volt Bible for Boats", Minor Brotherton, "Boatowners
Illustrated Handbook of Wiring", Charlie Wing. I notice that there are
a couple of new ones since I was dealing with this stuff in my
Hawkeye. I would take a look at Don Casey's "Sailboat Electrics
Simplified". Also read the appropriate essays in the West catalog. I
found them to be very helpful also. I would also recommend that you be
just a bit scared of electric especially if you plan to bring shore
power on your boat when you are in port.
Bob Chamberland
--- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
> FBBB --
>
> My practical knowledge of of off the grid power is limited to a
> fishboat my father and I ran that featured a 3 battery system that
> provided juice for the instruments, lights, etc. for the hour now and
> then when the diesel motor was banging away and powering all the
> system with it's alternator. Obviously with the motor going nearly
> every minute the boat was in operation, the battery bank was always
> at full charge.
>
> I'm a little hazy on how a cruising sailboat, featuring a small and
> presumable not always on outboard would recharge it's battery bank
> after a night of keeping the lights burning, playing videogames, etc.
>
> A few years back a friend of mine was living off the grid and made a
> nice home with a propane fridge, lamps and candles, and a K-mart
> generator for when he and his wife wanted to watch some porn. This
> seems like a passable, and maybe even preferable option to a bank of
> batteries to keep the light when the boat's laid up for the night.
>
> I'm not scared of electric and I can understand simple schematics. I
> do get confuse when we start getting 220, 110 and 12voltDC all mixed
> together.
>
> Anyone up for giving me an overview?
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
>
> C.E.P.
> 415 W.46th Street
> New York, New York 10036
>http://www.crumblingempire.com
> (212) 247-0296
>In some areas, I'll use the converted (LED) battery lights withOkay, now we're getting to where I get confused.
>Nicads that can be recharged with a small solar charger. Same for
>circulation fans.
Will the LED be able to run off solar charged nicad, marine
alternator, battery bank, or generator depending on need?
Does the generator put out 12v power or 110 and then that gets
"coverted" into something that can juice your battery bank.
What about equipment like camcorders, laptops (my wife's computer is
your wife's washer,) etc. None of them actually use 110, but they're
all wired for it. Is there some better way for places you don't have
a 110 system?
YIBB,
David
C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
What I have in mind for the Wyo is fairly simple. I purchased two
of Richard Spelling kits to power bright LEDs. (nice kits too)
I'll build all the running and anchor lights from LEDs as well as
interior. I intend to make simple sockets for the LED lights for
the cabin. They don't generate much heat and two or three together
are more than enough for reading. Maybe a string of LED's like you
find in the movie theaters can be used to provide low level lighting
during the evenings. I'll also make up a set of red lights for
night running.
In some areas, I'll use the converted (LED) battery lights with
Nicads that can be recharged with a small solar charger. Same for
circulation fans.
Refrigeration will be by compressor (3 AH Max) and a well insulated
box with top opening lid.
4 170 AH 6-volt batteries would be enough to power the whole lot for
several days before recharging.
Should I go with the sterndrive setup, I'll have a marine alternator
running when ever moving so recharge will not be an issue. The
backup generator would have to run 4 to 5 hours to recharge every
few days if I go with the T50.
We are going have a small Cloths washer on board like you find in
apartments. They are 28" square and 33" tall with plastic cases and
drums. We'll run the generator when doing laundry. No dryer though.
We hope to be efficient with energy. We'll see....
Jeff
of Richard Spelling kits to power bright LEDs. (nice kits too)
I'll build all the running and anchor lights from LEDs as well as
interior. I intend to make simple sockets for the LED lights for
the cabin. They don't generate much heat and two or three together
are more than enough for reading. Maybe a string of LED's like you
find in the movie theaters can be used to provide low level lighting
during the evenings. I'll also make up a set of red lights for
night running.
In some areas, I'll use the converted (LED) battery lights with
Nicads that can be recharged with a small solar charger. Same for
circulation fans.
Refrigeration will be by compressor (3 AH Max) and a well insulated
box with top opening lid.
4 170 AH 6-volt batteries would be enough to power the whole lot for
several days before recharging.
Should I go with the sterndrive setup, I'll have a marine alternator
running when ever moving so recharge will not be an issue. The
backup generator would have to run 4 to 5 hours to recharge every
few days if I go with the T50.
We are going have a small Cloths washer on board like you find in
apartments. They are 28" square and 33" tall with plastic cases and
drums. We'll run the generator when doing laundry. No dryer though.
We hope to be efficient with energy. We'll see....
Jeff
Hi David,
Can't give you the quick-n-easy overview since I'm right up there
with the profoundly "lost in space" crowd of electrical morons but I
can say that the propane fridge idea,on a sail boat,is not recommended
as the healing will either trigger the auto-shutoff or set things
afire.Either way,you end up with spoiled food.
I've managed to cruise for days on end in the Micro with only one
deep cycle battery for navigation lights and interior reading
lights.Things have been helped along by keeping to a vegetarian
regime.One thing I have noticed is that while in cruising mode,I tend
to rise with the sun,which in turn leads to long days of daylight
cruising and consequently fatigue come sunset.For
amusement/distraction,I rely on a simple battery powered AM/FM radio,a
guitar and a harmonica.This particular bohemian practice ultimately
leaves me feeling very much refreshed and much healthier at the end of
the cruise.
Things that may require cool storage are kept in an ice box while
another ice box is just for ice storage(blocks,not cubes).Depending on
the temperature,this ensures anywhere from 3 to 5 days
of"independance".
Of course,there is always the heavenly treat of having a really
cold beer served to you at a club or marina which might also serve as
a convenient point to stock up on ice,get a good shower,do a load of
laundry etc...otherwise,wine is the beverage of choice while underway.
On WINDERMERE,the proposed electrics consists of a substantial
bank of batteries kept charged up while at a marina.These will allow
for nearly a weeks worth of serious autonomy running all sorts of
gadgets.The generator/altenator on the outboard is strictly for
maintaining the charge state on one dedicated starter battery.
Later,as funds become available,solar panels are in the plans for
easy and unobtrusive installation on the roof.I'm also considering a
wind generator.
I suspect that once you begin using your I60,in cruise mode,you
too will discover your particular routine and be able to adjust things
specific to your needs.So,if I may,I would suggest starting off with
virtually nothing in the electroncis dept. and gradually add the
devices you conclude essential to your comfort level.Two advantages to
this approach as I see it are:a)funds better spent elsewhere are not
directed to dubious gadgetry and their attendant breakdowns.b) you get
to work up to your comfort level as apposed to having excess stuff
thrown at you all at once and being forced to contend with it.
You may wish to run a PVC conduite around the inside perimeter of
the I60 to serve as a cable race and make later electicical additions
relatively easy.Don't forget to always keep a "fish" line in the cable
race!
Well,that's my $.02Can (which I understand ain't worth a
pile-o-beans).I know it isn't exactly what you were looking for but I
am confident the more enlightened amongst us will chime right in with
the goods!
Best of luck to you with the I60!!!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,ever so patiently waiting for warmer days,from the
shores of the St.Lawrence........
Can't give you the quick-n-easy overview since I'm right up there
with the profoundly "lost in space" crowd of electrical morons but I
can say that the propane fridge idea,on a sail boat,is not recommended
as the healing will either trigger the auto-shutoff or set things
afire.Either way,you end up with spoiled food.
I've managed to cruise for days on end in the Micro with only one
deep cycle battery for navigation lights and interior reading
lights.Things have been helped along by keeping to a vegetarian
regime.One thing I have noticed is that while in cruising mode,I tend
to rise with the sun,which in turn leads to long days of daylight
cruising and consequently fatigue come sunset.For
amusement/distraction,I rely on a simple battery powered AM/FM radio,a
guitar and a harmonica.This particular bohemian practice ultimately
leaves me feeling very much refreshed and much healthier at the end of
the cruise.
Things that may require cool storage are kept in an ice box while
another ice box is just for ice storage(blocks,not cubes).Depending on
the temperature,this ensures anywhere from 3 to 5 days
of"independance".
Of course,there is always the heavenly treat of having a really
cold beer served to you at a club or marina which might also serve as
a convenient point to stock up on ice,get a good shower,do a load of
laundry etc...otherwise,wine is the beverage of choice while underway.
On WINDERMERE,the proposed electrics consists of a substantial
bank of batteries kept charged up while at a marina.These will allow
for nearly a weeks worth of serious autonomy running all sorts of
gadgets.The generator/altenator on the outboard is strictly for
maintaining the charge state on one dedicated starter battery.
Later,as funds become available,solar panels are in the plans for
easy and unobtrusive installation on the roof.I'm also considering a
wind generator.
I suspect that once you begin using your I60,in cruise mode,you
too will discover your particular routine and be able to adjust things
specific to your needs.So,if I may,I would suggest starting off with
virtually nothing in the electroncis dept. and gradually add the
devices you conclude essential to your comfort level.Two advantages to
this approach as I see it are:a)funds better spent elsewhere are not
directed to dubious gadgetry and their attendant breakdowns.b) you get
to work up to your comfort level as apposed to having excess stuff
thrown at you all at once and being forced to contend with it.
You may wish to run a PVC conduite around the inside perimeter of
the I60 to serve as a cable race and make later electicical additions
relatively easy.Don't forget to always keep a "fish" line in the cable
race!
Well,that's my $.02Can (which I understand ain't worth a
pile-o-beans).I know it isn't exactly what you were looking for but I
am confident the more enlightened amongst us will chime right in with
the goods!
Best of luck to you with the I60!!!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,ever so patiently waiting for warmer days,from the
shores of the St.Lawrence........
--- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
> FBBB --
>
> My practical knowledge of of off the grid power is limited to a
> fishboat my father and I ran that featured a 3 battery system that
> provided juice for the instruments, lights, etc. for the hour now
and
> then when the diesel motor was banging away and powering all the
> system with it's alternator. Obviously with the motor going nearly
> every minute the boat was in operation, the battery bank was always
> at full charge.
>
> I'm a little hazy on how a cruising sailboat, featuring a small and
> presumable not always on outboard would recharge it's battery bank
> after a night of keeping the lights burning, playing videogames,
etc.
>
> A few years back a friend of mine was living off the grid and made
a
> nice home with a propane fridge, lamps and candles, and a K-mart
> generator for when he and his wife wanted to watch some porn. This
> seems like a passable, and maybe even preferable option to a bank of
> batteries to keep the light when the boat's laid up for the night.
>
> I'm not scared of electric and I can understand simple schematics. I
> do get confuse when we start getting 220, 110 and 12voltDC all mixed
> together.
>
> Anyone up for giving me an overview?
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
>
> C.E.P.
> 415 W.46th Street
> New York, New York 10036
>http://www.crumblingempire.com
> (212) 247-0296
FBBB --
My practical knowledge of of off the grid power is limited to a
fishboat my father and I ran that featured a 3 battery system that
provided juice for the instruments, lights, etc. for the hour now and
then when the diesel motor was banging away and powering all the
system with it's alternator. Obviously with the motor going nearly
every minute the boat was in operation, the battery bank was always
at full charge.
I'm a little hazy on how a cruising sailboat, featuring a small and
presumable not always on outboard would recharge it's battery bank
after a night of keeping the lights burning, playing videogames, etc.
A few years back a friend of mine was living off the grid and made a
nice home with a propane fridge, lamps and candles, and a K-mart
generator for when he and his wife wanted to watch some porn. This
seems like a passable, and maybe even preferable option to a bank of
batteries to keep the light when the boat's laid up for the night.
I'm not scared of electric and I can understand simple schematics. I
do get confuse when we start getting 220, 110 and 12voltDC all mixed
together.
Anyone up for giving me an overview?
YIBB,
David
C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
My practical knowledge of of off the grid power is limited to a
fishboat my father and I ran that featured a 3 battery system that
provided juice for the instruments, lights, etc. for the hour now and
then when the diesel motor was banging away and powering all the
system with it's alternator. Obviously with the motor going nearly
every minute the boat was in operation, the battery bank was always
at full charge.
I'm a little hazy on how a cruising sailboat, featuring a small and
presumable not always on outboard would recharge it's battery bank
after a night of keeping the lights burning, playing videogames, etc.
A few years back a friend of mine was living off the grid and made a
nice home with a propane fridge, lamps and candles, and a K-mart
generator for when he and his wife wanted to watch some porn. This
seems like a passable, and maybe even preferable option to a bank of
batteries to keep the light when the boat's laid up for the night.
I'm not scared of electric and I can understand simple schematics. I
do get confuse when we start getting 220, 110 and 12voltDC all mixed
together.
Anyone up for giving me an overview?
YIBB,
David
C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296