Re: table saw issues
I run a furniture manufacturing bussiness here in Australia, and my
first suggestion would be to get a blade recomended for the material
you are cutting. If the timber you are cutting has a lot of moisture
in it or has a lot of tension in it ,it will jam against the blade
causing motor to labour or worse still kick back the timber. For
really hard to cut timber we use a blade with what are called
chipbreakers between each tooth.Or if you have a really really
obstinate bit or timber you can have an asssitant tap a small wedge
into the cut as it passes the knife at the back of the blade,this
will stop it jaming.
Oh and keep them sharp, blunt tools of any kind make any job harder
and are potentially dangerous.
Keep on cutting
Andrew Pryer
Victoria Australia
first suggestion would be to get a blade recomended for the material
you are cutting. If the timber you are cutting has a lot of moisture
in it or has a lot of tension in it ,it will jam against the blade
causing motor to labour or worse still kick back the timber. For
really hard to cut timber we use a blade with what are called
chipbreakers between each tooth.Or if you have a really really
obstinate bit or timber you can have an asssitant tap a small wedge
into the cut as it passes the knife at the back of the blade,this
will stop it jaming.
Oh and keep them sharp, blunt tools of any kind make any job harder
and are potentially dangerous.
Keep on cutting
Andrew Pryer
Victoria Australia
--- In bolger@y..., "rlspell2000" <richard@s...> wrote:
> Any tool experts out there? My 10" Delta contractor table saw keeps
> resetting. Even, cutting the soft cedar for the mast on the CLC,
> couldn't rip but about 2 feet before it would reset. Finaly gave up
> and put the rip fense on the circular saw.
>
> This is the little black reset button next to the on switch.
>
> Checked, plenty of air flow into the dust collector, don't think it
> is overheating. Saw blade is relatively new, though I guess it
could
> be sharper.
>
> Was thinking I might be running on a little less than 115v, old
> wiring, but moved to a plug I ran with new wiring and it is still
> resetting.
>
> Is this a thermal or an amp breaker, anyone know? Is this connected
> to the motor, or just on the panel? Should I get a new breaker and
> put it on? Any suggestions?
Check the motor to see if it's full of sawdust, that could cause it to
overheat. If you've got compressed air try blowing the dust out of the
motor, that's good for it even if it's not your current problem.
Turn the blade by hand to see if the bearings in the arbor or motor are
binding.
Is it belt drive or does the blade mount right on the motor? If it's belt
drive make sure the belt isn't rubbing on something, and that the pulleys
are in line and parallel.
Table saws like running on 220 a lot better than they like 110, especially
if the 110 circuit is old and feeble. Although I doubt that it has anything
to do with your current problem, you and the saw will be happier in the
long run if you run a 20 amp 220 circuit for it. I really noticed the
difference with my 3 horse saw when I switched it to 220.
Of course the reset breaker _could_ be bad, but check everything else
first.
overheat. If you've got compressed air try blowing the dust out of the
motor, that's good for it even if it's not your current problem.
Turn the blade by hand to see if the bearings in the arbor or motor are
binding.
Is it belt drive or does the blade mount right on the motor? If it's belt
drive make sure the belt isn't rubbing on something, and that the pulleys
are in line and parallel.
Table saws like running on 220 a lot better than they like 110, especially
if the 110 circuit is old and feeble. Although I doubt that it has anything
to do with your current problem, you and the saw will be happier in the
long run if you run a 20 amp 220 circuit for it. I really noticed the
difference with my 3 horse saw when I switched it to 220.
Of course the reset breaker _could_ be bad, but check everything else
first.
On Sun, 24 Mar 2002 19:22:31 -0000, Richard Spelling wrote:
> Any tool experts out there? My 10" Delta contractor table saw keeps
> resetting. Even, cutting the soft cedar for the mast on the CLC,
> couldn't rip but about 2 feet before it would reset. Finaly gave up
> and put the rip fense on the circular saw.
> ...
> Was thinking I might be running on a little less than 115v, old
> wiring, but moved to a plug I ran with new wiring and it is still
> resetting.
>
> Is this a thermal or an amp breaker, anyone know? Is this connected
> to the motor, or just on the panel? Should I get a new breaker and
> put it on? Any suggestions?
--
John <jkohnen@...>
http://www.boat-links.com/
When I think of the number of disagreeable people that I know have gone
to a better world, I am sure hell won't be so bad at all. <Mark Twain>
Some computer ate my first reply.
If saw seems to bog down much, if you smell burning, or if blade gunks
up, you may have a dull, dirty, or inappropriate blade. Steel blades
are cheap to get sharpened, but I understand carbide tipped blades
last much longer unless you hit metal. If you've been cutting particle
board with a steel blade, it is now dull. Only takes a few feet to do
it. Blade should be a rip or combination type. Straight ammonia and a
stiff brush can clean off the gunk, tho there may be a better way for
all I know. A good hardware store ought to be able to get blades
sharpened for you.
Also, if feed is not real straight you may bog down the motor.
Another possibility is that the motor is fighting a bad bearing. I've
worn one out myself, many years ago ripping wet oak.
If saw seems to bog down much, if you smell burning, or if blade gunks
up, you may have a dull, dirty, or inappropriate blade. Steel blades
are cheap to get sharpened, but I understand carbide tipped blades
last much longer unless you hit metal. If you've been cutting particle
board with a steel blade, it is now dull. Only takes a few feet to do
it. Blade should be a rip or combination type. Straight ammonia and a
stiff brush can clean off the gunk, tho there may be a better way for
all I know. A good hardware store ought to be able to get blades
sharpened for you.
Also, if feed is not real straight you may bog down the motor.
Another possibility is that the motor is fighting a bad bearing. I've
worn one out myself, many years ago ripping wet oak.
--- In bolger@y..., "rlspell2000" <richard@s...> wrote:
> Any tool experts out there? My 10" Delta contractor table saw keeps
> resetting. Even, cutting the soft cedar for the mast on the CLC,
> couldn't rip but about 2 feet before it would reset. Finaly gave up
> and put the rip fense on the circular saw.
I'm pretty sure it is 12 gauge, I ran it myself. Cord is pretty heavy
duty. I'll check the voltage under load and see where I'm sitting, if
I'm getting a big drop somewhere else on the run from the panel, I'll
make a dedicated run for the table saw.
duty. I'll check the voltage under load and see where I'm sitting, if
I'm getting a big drop somewhere else on the run from the panel, I'll
make a dedicated run for the table saw.
--- In bolger@y..., Vince and Mary Ann Chew <vachew@v...> wrote:
> Be sure the wire to the outlet you are using is at least 12ga. I've
seen
> lots of house wiring that is 14ga to the outlets. Also, check the
cord
> itself. It could be too small a gauge, or have broken strands. Any
of
> these factors will cause excessive current draw down as will very
long
> wiring runs back to the main. If all else fails, since you
indicate
> that you could make the required cuts with your circular saw, you
might
> put a smaller diameter blade on the table saw. I run a 9" blade on
my
> 10" table saw to reduce overheating problems. Sometimes, when I
have a
> lot of ripping to do, I even put a 7 1/4" blade on temporarily.
>
> Vince Chew
hadn't thought of that, will check the voltage drop under load.
Don't know where the switch is, the button is next to the power
switch. Always thought it was thermal, it kicked off a bunch of times
once when the air flow to the dust collector was blocked.
Guess I need to pull it appart and look.
Don't know where the switch is, the button is next to the power
switch. Always thought it was thermal, it kicked off a bunch of times
once when the air flow to the dust collector was blocked.
Guess I need to pull it appart and look.
--- In bolger@y..., "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...> wrote:
> Richard:
>
> Are you talking about the reset switch on the motor? I think that
one is thermal. Mine will kick if I make too many cuts in a really
hard piece of yellow pine. Have you checked the voltage drop under
load? If that's Ok, you might have a bad thermal cut-out.
>
> Rereading your question, I'm not sure. Do you have a magnetic
starter? Those things have a little heater that kicks off if the
current draw gets too high. They can go bad, though. Try tightening
the screws that connect the heater. Try a new heater. Long shot -
make sure the right heater is in there.
>
> Chuck
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: rlspell2000
> To: bolger@y...
> Sent: Sunday, March 24, 2002 1:22 PM
> Subject: [bolger] table saw issues
>
>
> Any tool experts out there? My 10" Delta contractor table saw
keeps
> resetting. Even, cutting the soft cedar for the mast on the CLC,
> couldn't rip but about 2 feet before it would reset. Finaly gave
up
> and put the rip fense on the circular saw.
>
> This is the little black reset button next to the on switch.
>
> Checked, plenty of air flow into the dust collector, don't think
it
> is overheating. Saw blade is relatively new, though I guess it
could
> be sharper.
>
> Was thinking I might be running on a little less than 115v, old
> wiring, but moved to a plug I ran with new wiring and it is still
> resetting.
>
> Is this a thermal or an amp breaker, anyone know? Is this
connected
> to the motor, or just on the panel? Should I get a new breaker
and
> put it on? Any suggestions?
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Be sure the wire to the outlet you are using is at least 12ga. I've seen
lots of house wiring that is 14ga to the outlets. Also, check the cord
itself. It could be too small a gauge, or have broken strands. Any of
these factors will cause excessive current draw down as will very long
wiring runs back to the main. If all else fails, since you indicate
that you could make the required cuts with your circular saw, you might
put a smaller diameter blade on the table saw. I run a 9" blade on my
10" table saw to reduce overheating problems. Sometimes, when I have a
lot of ripping to do, I even put a 7 1/4" blade on temporarily.
Vince Chew
lots of house wiring that is 14ga to the outlets. Also, check the cord
itself. It could be too small a gauge, or have broken strands. Any of
these factors will cause excessive current draw down as will very long
wiring runs back to the main. If all else fails, since you indicate
that you could make the required cuts with your circular saw, you might
put a smaller diameter blade on the table saw. I run a 9" blade on my
10" table saw to reduce overheating problems. Sometimes, when I have a
lot of ripping to do, I even put a 7 1/4" blade on temporarily.
Vince Chew
Richard:
Are you talking about the reset switch on the motor? I think that one is thermal. Mine will kick if I make too many cuts in a really hard piece of yellow pine. Have you checked the voltage drop under load? If that's Ok, you might have a bad thermal cut-out.
Rereading your question, I'm not sure. Do you have a magnetic starter? Those things have a little heater that kicks off if the current draw gets too high. They can go bad, though. Try tightening the screws that connect the heater. Try a new heater. Long shot - make sure the right heater is in there.
Chuck
Are you talking about the reset switch on the motor? I think that one is thermal. Mine will kick if I make too many cuts in a really hard piece of yellow pine. Have you checked the voltage drop under load? If that's Ok, you might have a bad thermal cut-out.
Rereading your question, I'm not sure. Do you have a magnetic starter? Those things have a little heater that kicks off if the current draw gets too high. They can go bad, though. Try tightening the screws that connect the heater. Try a new heater. Long shot - make sure the right heater is in there.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: rlspell2000
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, March 24, 2002 1:22 PM
Subject: [bolger] table saw issues
Any tool experts out there? My 10" Delta contractor table saw keeps
resetting. Even, cutting the soft cedar for the mast on the CLC,
couldn't rip but about 2 feet before it would reset. Finaly gave up
and put the rip fense on the circular saw.
This is the little black reset button next to the on switch.
Checked, plenty of air flow into the dust collector, don't think it
is overheating. Saw blade is relatively new, though I guess it could
be sharper.
Was thinking I might be running on a little less than 115v, old
wiring, but moved to a plug I ran with new wiring and it is still
resetting.
Is this a thermal or an amp breaker, anyone know? Is this connected
to the motor, or just on the panel? Should I get a new breaker and
put it on? Any suggestions?
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Same for me. I use an 8" planer blade for ripping unless the piece I am
ripping is too thick. I use one of the 7 1/4 Mashita blades that Dave
Carnell sells for all laminates, including plywood. It seems like you
can't even tell you are cutting they put such a light load on the saw.
Highly recommended.
HJ
Vince and Mary Ann Chew wrote:
ripping is too thick. I use one of the 7 1/4 Mashita blades that Dave
Carnell sells for all laminates, including plywood. It seems like you
can't even tell you are cutting they put such a light load on the saw.
Highly recommended.
HJ
Vince and Mary Ann Chew wrote:
>
> Be sure the wire to the outlet you are using is at least 12ga. I've seen
> lots of house wiring that is 14ga to the outlets. Also, check the cord
> itself. It could be too small a gauge, or have broken strands. Any of
> these factors will cause excessive current draw down as will very long
> wiring runs back to the main. If all else fails, since you indicate
> that you could make the required cuts with your circular saw, you might
> put a smaller diameter blade on the table saw. I run a 9" blade on my
> 10" table saw to reduce overheating problems. Sometimes, when I have a
> lot of ripping to do, I even put a 7 1/4" blade on temporarily.
>
> Vince Chew
>
>
If the blade seems to bog down when you cut, maybe you need a sharper
blade or to feed straighter. Another clue if the blade is dull is
sawdust instead of shavings. If the teeth on the blade are reasonably
large, you shouldn't be getting fine dust. Another clue is burn marks
on blade and wood.
I used to rip a lot of wet oak. If the blade was dull it was really
tough to do. Also, the blade would get gunked up and have to be
cleaned with ammonia and a stiff brush, but with cedar I bet that's
not an issue.
Blades are cheap to have sharpened and are a pleasure to use after
that. Also, a carbide blade will stay sharp longer unless you cut
nails. Or you could get Payson's sharpening book, I seem to recall it
covers circular blades.
Another thought, I wonder if a crosscut blade will bog down when used
for ripping? Maybe that's the issue? Perhaps the teeth don't have
enough offset.
Yet another thought. Check that the blade can rotate fairly freely if
the power is off. Maybe the bearing is failing.
blade or to feed straighter. Another clue if the blade is dull is
sawdust instead of shavings. If the teeth on the blade are reasonably
large, you shouldn't be getting fine dust. Another clue is burn marks
on blade and wood.
I used to rip a lot of wet oak. If the blade was dull it was really
tough to do. Also, the blade would get gunked up and have to be
cleaned with ammonia and a stiff brush, but with cedar I bet that's
not an issue.
Blades are cheap to have sharpened and are a pleasure to use after
that. Also, a carbide blade will stay sharp longer unless you cut
nails. Or you could get Payson's sharpening book, I seem to recall it
covers circular blades.
Another thought, I wonder if a crosscut blade will bog down when used
for ripping? Maybe that's the issue? Perhaps the teeth don't have
enough offset.
Yet another thought. Check that the blade can rotate fairly freely if
the power is off. Maybe the bearing is failing.
--- In bolger@y..., "rlspell2000" <richard@s...> wrote:
> Any tool experts out there? My 10" Delta contractor table saw keeps
> resetting. Even, cutting the soft cedar for the mast on the CLC,
> couldn't rip but about 2 feet before it would reset. Finaly gave up
> and put the rip fense on the circular saw.
>
> This is the little black reset button next to the on switch.
>
> Checked, plenty of air flow into the dust collector, don't think it
> is overheating. Saw blade is relatively new, though I guess it could
> be sharper.
>
> Was thinking I might be running on a little less than 115v, old
> wiring, but moved to a plug I ran with new wiring and it is still
> resetting.
>
> Is this a thermal or an amp breaker, anyone know? Is this connected
> to the motor, or just on the panel? Should I get a new breaker and
> put it on? Any suggestions?
Sounds like you need a new motor.
Any tool experts out there? My 10" Delta contractor table saw keeps
resetting. Even, cutting the soft cedar for the mast on the CLC,
couldn't rip but about 2 feet before it would reset. Finaly gave up
and put the rip fense on the circular saw.
This is the little black reset button next to the on switch.
Checked, plenty of air flow into the dust collector, don't think it
is overheating. Saw blade is relatively new, though I guess it could
be sharper.
Was thinking I might be running on a little less than 115v, old
wiring, but moved to a plug I ran with new wiring and it is still
resetting.
Is this a thermal or an amp breaker, anyone know? Is this connected
to the motor, or just on the panel? Should I get a new breaker and
put it on? Any suggestions?
resetting. Even, cutting the soft cedar for the mast on the CLC,
couldn't rip but about 2 feet before it would reset. Finaly gave up
and put the rip fense on the circular saw.
This is the little black reset button next to the on switch.
Checked, plenty of air flow into the dust collector, don't think it
is overheating. Saw blade is relatively new, though I guess it could
be sharper.
Was thinking I might be running on a little less than 115v, old
wiring, but moved to a plug I ran with new wiring and it is still
resetting.
Is this a thermal or an amp breaker, anyone know? Is this connected
to the motor, or just on the panel? Should I get a new breaker and
put it on? Any suggestions?