Re: Old Trailer

Thanks for this, Chuck.

I expected a four wire, flat harness that went front to back ( hey, let's make our first
million again ), but this'll work, especially your alternative scheme.

Mark

Chuck Leinweber wrote:

> I think that is standard. Ground each of the bulbs to the frame of the trailer, then ground the (usually) white wire that goes into the flat plug to the frame also. Alternately, you can run additional wires from each light back to the white wire. You will have to do this if you have a wooden trailer, or if the lights are on a dismountable bar.

<snip>

Are they all this way? Should I return it and get something else? What?

Thanks,
Mark ( eyeing April 15th on the water with great anticipation)
Mark:

I think that is standard. Ground each of the bulbs to the frame of the trailer, then ground the (usually) white wire that goes into the flat plug to the frame also. Alternately, you can run additional wires from each light back to the white wire. You will have to do this if you have a wooden trailer, or if the lights are on a dismountable bar.

Chuck

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Well, I installed the roller from my old Quick 'n Easy roof rack to the back of the
trailer. The boat now goes up and down like butter.

A question, though, on hooking up the lights, please:
I got a new, "Blazer" # C6424 submersible set at the local auto parts store, expecting
everything to plug to the 4 way flat plug; but NO! It's got separate wires front to back,
a separate ground for each light, and etc.

Are they all this way? Should I return it and get something else? What?

Thanks,
Mark ( eyeing April 15th on the water with great anticipation)

Thanks!

Jeff

>
>
>
>
> Actually, Jeff, the picture quality ain't half bad. Just
> keep an eye out for very bright exposures and high contrast.
>
> The only thing more impressive than the trailer will be your
> Wyo.
>
> Mark
>
>

Re: Chugger reference.
Working on the scale drawings, having trouble with figuring out the
lengths of the sides with anything other than the 4' wide bow. Too
many variables on the curves if narrower than 48". The sides will
have to be longer and the curves softer to achieve the same overall
profile. I think that the plans will be for the square boat with
instructions on how to loft the curves for the bow if a narrower bow
is desired. I would think that if an 18" wide bow is desired, an
additional 6-12" of material would be used to give the same profile.
This would offset the butt joints somewhat, but that is not
necessarily a bad thing. It might interfere with the side windows,
but those could be relocated or narrowed. Plans will include same 3
overhead lines for the bow as on the site. Sheets will be 8 1/2" X
14", Offsets for square boat only, Written build guide, and hopefully
photos of build (downloaded only). I will probably start laying out
the boat this week as Fisher10 is at a point where I need better
weather than is predicted for a while. I may get to the point of
cutting out the parts, but assembly will be a while. I only have
space for one 3D boat buildiing project at a time, and F-10 is about
to go 3D. Chugger may end up as an "assemble on site" boat as getting
a 6-7 boat fleet (I have 4 now, working on #5) past the wife is an
iffy (read impossible) proposition.(I did get her to tentatively
agree to the Shop attachment to the garage tho. Told her it was for
storage!). I envision Chugger as an Instant Boat type. Inside chine
log, Glue and Screw or Nail, light framing, maybe FG tape on the
outside seams and a couple of coats of latex paint (Expensive wood,
fasteners, epoxy, and paint optional). I will, of course, put in less
than $100.00 for the prototype, should last 3-5 years, with
reasonable care. Boy, I really need to get a-hold of that guy with
the trailer now.

Regards: Steve.

--- In bolger@y..., Mark Albanese <marka@o...> wrote:
> Steve,
>
> xxx
> x
> xxxxxxxx
>
> Your removable tongue would be terrific, since my off the
> street, winter storage is best at 16' over all.
>
> I'd like to make the cut on the lower part of the tongue (
> as above ), but the Y is welded to the top corner of the
> elbow. There are many light boat trailers now that are just
> a little square with a very long and unsupported tongue, so
> I expect it could work to just saw that off; yet I'm
> reluctant to inflict damage on something so nice already.
> Best would be to move the elbow with the welded tongue
> forward and put back on a Y.
>
> I'm saving your idea for later. The bird refuge I cruise
> opens April 15th, and it's about all I can do right now to
> pull everything together to be there then.
>
> I'm going to fit some bunks to what there is, as is, for now.
> BTW the trailer is exactly the right size now for one of
> your genial, little Chuggers.
>
> Thanks,
> Mark
>
> lewisboats wrote:
> >
> > You might not have to get it welded. If the tube is
> > hollow all the
> > way, see if you can find a pipe of the correct dimensions
> > (small
> > enough to fit snugly inside the main tongue pipe). Then I
> > would cut
> > it right at the Y, leaving the 1" on the coupler part.
> > Then I would
> > insert the pipe into the tongue far enough back to clear
> > the Y, drill
> > and bolt together. Then drill and bolt the coupler to the
> > other end
> > of the pipe. This way, if you want to adjust the length of
> > the
> > tongue, all you have to do is pull the bolt behind the Y
> > and relocate
> > to another hole (s), further down the tongue, as far as
> > the axle.
> > Could be used on longer or shorter boats. A half to 5/8ths
> > bolt has
> > plenty of sheer strength for up to 800-1000 lbs. If going
> > heavier, I
> > would not use bolts, but weld instead.
> > Is the coupler welded to the tongue or just bolted on?
> > Most are
> > bolted but if this one isn't, you could just replace the
> > coupler and
> > bolt it straight to the extention, they aren't very
> > expensive ($20?).
> >
> > BTW, thanks much for the kind words about the site, you
> > and Mikeeeee
> > have me all a blushin'. You see, I tend to use a highly
> > Modified and
> > Detailed K.I.S.S. principal.........., and even SUCCEED
> > sometimes, in
> > spite of myself. I also tend to think the old addage "if
> > it ain't
> > broke, don't fix it" takes All the fun out of things. I
> > also think
> > that artwork boats are beautiful and all, but if I can
> > whip up a boat
> > in a couple of days, have it last a few years, and then
> > get to build
> > another one, I'm a happy man (I get to build another one,
> > whoopeee!!).
> > (to that effect, I use luaun or meranti underlayment
> > ($6.50/sheet)
> > for my own boats, templates and prototypes. I use exterior
> > for
> > everything else).
> >
> > Let me know what you come up with for the trailer, I'm
> > interested.
> >
> > PS: if you go with the adjustable tongue, double nut the
> > bolt with a
> > lockwasher in between.
> >
> > Steve.

Another pretty day, still a small dearth of work at work. I
got to put the ElectroSprint up on the trailer so to fit
some bunks to keep it level.

Sticks out just 6' 6", and fits between the old, tall wheels
much better than expected. Now, it cinches down by the
oarlocks at the back and all the way across three places
going forward with good shockcord. It feels very solid. Will have
plenty of battery support.

Next, bolt on the measured bunks and hang a lightset; I'm done!
Then I can finish fitting out the boat...but April 15th to
Sauvie Island, here I come.

Mark

Actually, Jeff, the picture quality ain't half bad. Just
keep an eye out for very bright exposures and high contrast.

The only thing more impressive than the trailer will be your Wyo.

Mark

Jeff Blunck wrote:

>
> FYI, I added a few photos on my freebie web site. There
> is a link at the bottom to hit the trailer page. This is
> a quick and dirty site setup that I'll start posting
> building photos of the Wyo as I go along.
>
> It's a very inexpensive 480X640 camera so have patience
> with the quality of the photos but hey, it was cheap at
> Target!
>
> www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
>
> Jeff

Bill,

If I hadn't had this gift, one of those would be the thing.
And an aluminum trailer, now you're talking!

Harbor Freight and EZ Loader appear to be two places for a
good small trailer sans the shipping charges. There may be
others, yet it looks like shopping in your town or
regionally is best.

Here's an excellent trailer source for EVERYTHING trailer,
located in the Southern tier.
http://www.championtrailers.com/
Just the paper catalog's an education.

You might get a kick out of the tres chic, wooden, Buckboard
Trailer in WB #s101 & 102. If I remember right, Richard
Jagels copied the idea from LF Herreshoff.

Lucky for us, in Oregon a boat trailer doesn't need a
license up to 1800 lbs.

Mark

wmrpage@...wrote:

>
> In a message dated 3/31/02 4:54:05 PM Central Standard
> Time,
>sbosquette@...writes:
>
> > Mark, I bought a utility trailer from Harborfreight, 860
> lb capacity,
> > I paid $149 last fall plus $5.95 for shipping I received
> it in three
> > days from California, I'm in Maine!!!!
>
> Well, this sounds like a real bargain!
>
> Last year I bought (on the internet) a very fancy aluminum
> trailer for my
> 1914 vintage B.N. Morris canoe . Didn't mind the fancy
> price - hey, its a
> very fancy boat and trailers designed for 18' long, 65#
> loads are not readily
> available on the used trailer market. (Shipped UPS from
> Ohio, the shipping
> costs were, to the best of my recollection an order of
> magnitude higher than
> yours, though.)
>
> However, the costs of registering a "modified" old trailer
> v. registering a
> new one might bear some consideration for penny-pinchers.
>
> To get the new trailer registered in good old MN, I paid
> sales tax,
> registration fee, local administration fee, license fee
> and perhaps a couple
> of other fees as well. It seemed like an awful lot of fees
> at the time, but I
> didn't want to piss off the already surly public servant
> who was processing
> my paperwork with any unwelcome inquiries. In any case, I
> was set back to the
> tune of approximately $125 to license the thing!!!
>
> (It boggles the mind to think that our current Govenor
> (Jesse "The Body"TM
> "Ventura"TM) won election on the campaign platform that
> the license fees for
> his Porsche were excessive!) (The second and, I believe,
> last, plank of his
> platform had something to do with PWC's - canoes weren't
> in the mix,
> obviously.) Just goes to prove that the folks who settled
> MN (my ancestors
> included) were not the elite of the gene pool.
>
> Ciao for Niao,
> Bill in MN
>

>Your removable tongue would be terrific, since my off the
>street, winter storage is best at 16' over all.

This is actually a very popular feature for boat trailers being manufactured. A normal 18' runabout, ski boat, etc will need a couple feet in the back for the motor or outdrive and about 3' in front for trailer tongue. A lot of boat trailers have a dettachable or swivel tongue so the whole lot can fit in a 20' or 21' garage.

I think it would be easy to do. Check out a couple boat places and find out how they do it. Surf the WWW, you'll see pictures.

Jeff

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Steve,

xxx
x
xxxxxxxx

Your removable tongue would be terrific, since my off the
street, winter storage is best at 16' over all.

I'd like to make the cut on the lower part of the tongue (
as above ), but the Y is welded to the top corner of the
elbow. There are many light boat trailers now that are just
a little square with a very long and unsupported tongue, so
I expect it could work to just saw that off; yet I'm
reluctant to inflict damage on something so nice already.
Best would be to move the elbow with the welded tongue
forward and put back on a Y.

I'm saving your idea for later. The bird refuge I cruise
opens April 15th, and it's about all I can do right now to
pull everything together to be there then.

I'm going to fit some bunks to what there is, as is, for now.
BTW the trailer is exactly the right size now for one of
your genial, little Chuggers.

Thanks,
Mark

lewisboats wrote:

>
> You might not have to get it welded. If the tube is
> hollow all the
> way, see if you can find a pipe of the correct dimensions
> (small
> enough to fit snugly inside the main tongue pipe). Then I
> would cut
> it right at the Y, leaving the 1" on the coupler part.
> Then I would
> insert the pipe into the tongue far enough back to clear
> the Y, drill
> and bolt together. Then drill and bolt the coupler to the
> other end
> of the pipe. This way, if you want to adjust the length of
> the
> tongue, all you have to do is pull the bolt behind the Y
> and relocate
> to another hole (s), further down the tongue, as far as
> the axle.
> Could be used on longer or shorter boats. A half to 5/8ths
> bolt has
> plenty of sheer strength for up to 800-1000 lbs. If going
> heavier, I
> would not use bolts, but weld instead.
> Is the coupler welded to the tongue or just bolted on?
> Most are
> bolted but if this one isn't, you could just replace the
> coupler and
> bolt it straight to the extention, they aren't very
> expensive ($20?).
>
> BTW, thanks much for the kind words about the site, you
> and Mikeeeee
> have me all a blushin'. You see, I tend to use a highly
> Modified and
> Detailed K.I.S.S. principal.........., and even SUCCEED
> sometimes, in
> spite of myself. I also tend to think the old addage "if
> it ain't
> broke, don't fix it" takes All the fun out of things. I
> also think
> that artwork boats are beautiful and all, but if I can
> whip up a boat
> in a couple of days, have it last a few years, and then
> get to build
> another one, I'm a happy man (I get to build another one,
> whoopeee!!).
> (to that effect, I use luaun or meranti underlayment
> ($6.50/sheet)
> for my own boats, templates and prototypes. I use exterior
> for
> everything else).
>
> Let me know what you come up with for the trailer, I'm
> interested.
>
> PS: if you go with the adjustable tongue, double nut the
> bolt with a
> lockwasher in between.
>
> Steve.

At the rate at which you tossed off the trai
ler, I can see the big boat is going to get done in
record time.

--- Jeff Blunck <boatbuilding@...> wrote:

<HR>
<html><body>

<tt>
FYI, I added a few photos on my freebie web
site. There is a link at the bottom to hit the
trailer page. This is a quick and dirty site
setup that I'll start posting building photos of the
Wyo as I go along. 
 
It's a very inexpensive 480X640 camera so have
patience with the quality of the photos but hey, it
was cheap at Target! 
 
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor 
 
Jeff 
 
 
[Non-text portions of this message have been
removed] 
 
</tt>

 



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- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging
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- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on
topic, and punctuate 
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts,
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______________________________________________________________________
Find, Connect, Date!http://personals.yahoo.ca

FYI, I added a few photos on my freebie web site. There is a link at the bottom to hit the trailer page. This is a quick and dirty site setup that I'll start posting building photos of the Wyo as I go along.

It's a very inexpensive 480X640 camera so have patience with the quality of the photos but hey, it was cheap at Target!

www.dreamwater.net/cosailor

Jeff

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>how does a 51' Wyoming get legally trailered at all?

Forgot to answer this one. It generally can't unless it's on a fifth-wheel trailer.

Permits are $15.00 to get it to the lake. It's not over width or over length so no lights, pilot vehicles, etc are need.

Standard trailer lengths unless fifth wheels are generally 35' to 40' in most states, hence the need for the permit(s).

The Wyo is not a trailer boat, I'll just haul it to the lake for trials, then the Missouri river for launching on the cruise. A total of 500 miles.

Jeff

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>Stupid question: how does a 51' Wyoming fit on a 25' trailer?
>Is the axle at the very back of the trailer? For that matter,
>how does a 51' Wyoming get legally trailered at all?

Kid of wierd how it's going to work but here goes a description.

First of all the trailer has a 20' bed on it and is built like a flatbed utility trailer. It has a 5' heavily reinforced tongue on it too.

The balance point for the Wyo is at about 32 feet but I need to have some of the load forward for normal trailer loading. Hence, the tandem axles will be centered at about 35 feet. There is 8 feet aft of the center for the tandem axles so the boat will be supported back to about 43 feet. I'll just let the back 9 feet hang free. (okay with PF&F).

The front of the trailer bed stops at 23 feet from the bow. At this point 90% of the Wyo's weight will be on the 20' foot trailer bed. The tongue is another 5' forward and I used a bolt on, adjustable ball hitch. I'll unbolt the ball hitch and bolt on a 22' extention made of a 4" x 8" box beam, and bolt the ball hitch to the far end. There will then be two heavy angle irons stretching from each front corner of the trailer bed and attached to the extension box beam about 8' aft of the Bow. This essentially will make up a triangle attached to the front of the trailer, and it'll sort of look like a boat trailer now.

There will be about 1000 lbs load on the tongue total. Heavy, but the the hitch has a 2500 lb vertical rating, and the truck can easily handle it. The 4" X 8" box beam will not even know it's there. The angle irons are to give it lateral strength when turning.

Per PB&F, I'll use one support about 4 feet aft of the bow on bulkhead "A" to support the Wyo front end and a support where the tongue extention bolts on which will be at about 18' aft of the bow leaving a 14' foot unsupported span for the Wyo. which is no problem.

I'm sure I'm not making for a good mental picture but it will work like any other boat trailer. Thanks to the flat run of the Wyo.

Until I need to haul the Wyo, I'll have a hefty utility trailer.

Jeff

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> I finished my 25 foot, 12,000 lb capacity trailer today and
> managed to get a coat of primer on it.

Stupid question: how does a 51' Wyoming fit on a 25' trailer?
Is the axle at the very back of the trailer? For that matter,
how does a 51' Wyoming get legally trailered at all?

> Next weekend is the lights to wire in and final paint. Then
> clean the garage from end to end, prep everything, and May 1st,
> we start the Wyoming.

Yay! That's wonderful news! Have fun!

-- Sue --
(Hmm. If 25' 12000# trailer =~ $1400, does 33' 9000# trailer
also = $1400 or less?)

--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>

Just a note on the trailer thread.

I finished my 25 foot, 12,000 lb capacity trailer today and
managed to get a coat of primer on it. So far I have $1400 in
the trailer with another $100 to go for the brake control and
paint. The wife stepped in and helped paint today. Too cool
that she's as excited about the Wyo as I am.

Short list of materials is 40' 4" channel, 100' of 6" channel,
120' 2"x3"x1/4" angle, 12' 3"x3"x 3/8" andle, and a 5 lb box of
1/8 6011 welding rod.

Of course an adjustable hitch plate, 2 5/16 ball hitch, set of
used axles with springs, and 5 new tires & wheels.

Going price around here for these new is about $4500.00. I'm
$3000 ahead in my scrounging for savings towards the boat,
though about 3 weekends of labor invested.

Hopefully I can get some shots of it on my website soon.

Next weekend is the lights to wire in and final paint. Then
clean the garage from end to end, prep everything, and May 1st,
we start the Wyoming.

Jeff

In a message dated 3/31/02 4:54:05 PM Central Standard Time,
sbosquette@...writes:

> Mark, I bought a utility trailer from Harborfreight, 860 lb capacity,
> I paid $149 last fall plus $5.95 for shipping I received it in three
> days from California, I'm in Maine!!!!

Well, this sounds like a real bargain!

Last year I bought (on the internet) a very fancy aluminum trailer for my
1914 vintage B.N. Morris canoe . Didn't mind the fancy price - hey, its a
very fancy boat and trailers designed for 18' long, 65# loads are not readily
available on the used trailer market. (Shipped UPS from Ohio, the shipping
costs were, to the best of my recollection an order of magnitude higher than
yours, though.)

However, the costs of registering a "modified" old trailer v. registering a
new one might bear some consideration for penny-pinchers.

To get the new trailer registered in good old MN, I paid sales tax,
registration fee, local administration fee, license fee and perhaps a couple
of other fees as well. It seemed like an awful lot of fees at the time, but I
didn't want to piss off the already surly public servant who was processing
my paperwork with any unwelcome inquiries. In any case, I was set back to the
tune of approximately $125 to license the thing!!!

(It boggles the mind to think that our current Govenor (Jesse "The Body"TM
"Ventura"TM) won election on the campaign platform that the license fees for
his Porsche were excessive!) (The second and, I believe, last, plank of his
platform had something to do with PWC's - canoes weren't in the mix,
obviously.) Just goes to prove that the folks who settled MN (my ancestors
included) were not the elite of the gene pool.

Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I'm goin' have ta git me a trailer,real soon! It never occured to me
that they could be so much trouble/fun to deal with.Up here,the only
concern seems to be whether the little cup on the trailer will fit the
little ball attached to the car and if it don't,your usin' the wrong
sized hammer.Tons of places rent them and you actually have a choice
between a straight flatbed set up with portable ramps to load ATVs etc
or else a series of little rollers that can be adjusted to fit any
boat bottom from deed flat to deep deadrise.They can also be adjusted
to handle a good range of keel depth.
Rust ain't never been much of a problem either since there's no salt
water around only the toxic soup that calls itself a river.Oh sure,we
use lots of salt in the winter ta keep the ice off the roads,but then
again,we's smart nuff ta knows the lakes an' rivers are all froze up
good an' hard too.......
Perhaps another Yahoo group could be started called"This Old Rusty
Trailer Is Breakin' Ma Heart" or "I Shoulda Listened Ta Mama an'
Finished My Schoolin'" :-D
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,giddy from way too much wine on this lovely sunny Easter
Sunday and itchin' to start doing boat stuff,on the shores of the
glorious St.Lawrence(toxic soup notwithstanding)..............

--- In bolger@y..., Harry James <welshman@p...> wrote:
> Mark
>
> Actually this is the rusty trailer thread, you might call it a
subplot or background theme.
>
> HJ
>

Mark, I bought a utility trailer from Harborfreight, 860 lb capacity,
I paid $149 last fall plus $5.95 for shipping I received it in three
days from California, I'm in Maine!!!! It is well built, rugged,
good wheels and hubs. I used 2 1/2" galvanized pipe from Home Depot
reinforced with a 2 x 4 on edge thru-bolted. It is very stiff and I
think it will work very well for my Sneakeasy.

Steve Bosquette

--- In bolger@y..., Mark Albanese <marka@o...> wrote:
> Dennis,
>
> Where you located?
>
> EZ Loader's are made here in the NW, so we do see a lot of
> them. They have a complete line. Use for comparison if
> nothing else. Pick, "Products" from
>http://www.ezloader.com
>
>
> Mark
>
> pseudodion42 wrote:
> >
> > Speaking of Trailers, can anyone recommend a decent one
> > for a 17 footer? Thanks,
> >
> > Dennis Marshall

Mark

Actually this is the rusty trailer thread, you might call it a subplot or background theme.

HJ

Mark Albanese wrote:

> Thanks for these. I need them also for my comfortable, but
> antique, Audi boatcar.
> I'll find the rusty trailer thread.

You might not have to get it welded. If the tube is hollow all the
way, see if you can find a pipe of the correct dimensions (small
enough to fit snugly inside the main tongue pipe). Then I would cut
it right at the Y, leaving the 1" on the coupler part. Then I would
insert the pipe into the tongue far enough back to clear the Y, drill
and bolt together. Then drill and bolt the coupler to the other end
of the pipe. This way, if you want to adjust the length of the
tongue, all you have to do is pull the bolt behind the Y and relocate
to another hole (s), further down the tongue, as far as the axle.
Could be used on longer or shorter boats. A half to 5/8ths bolt has
plenty of sheer strength for up to 800-1000 lbs. If going heavier, I
would not use bolts, but weld instead.
Is the coupler welded to the tongue or just bolted on? Most are
bolted but if this one isn't, you could just replace the coupler and
bolt it straight to the extention, they aren't very expensive ($20?).

BTW, thanks much for the kind words about the site, you and Mikeeeee
have me all a blushin'. You see, I tend to use a highly Modified and
Detailed K.I.S.S. principal.........., and even SUCCEED sometimes, in
spite of myself. I also tend to think the old addage "if it ain't
broke, don't fix it" takes All the fun out of things. I also think
that artwork boats are beautiful and all, but if I can whip up a boat
in a couple of days, have it last a few years, and then get to build
another one, I'm a happy man (I get to build another one, whoopeee!!).
(to that effect, I use luaun or meranti underlayment ($6.50/sheet)
for my own boats, templates and prototypes. I use exterior for
everything else).

Let me know what you come up with for the trailer, I'm interested.

PS: if you go with the adjustable tongue, double nut the bolt with a
lockwasher in between.

Steve.

--- In bolger@y..., Mark Albanese <marka@o...> wrote:
> I had a chance this afternoon to strip off the old, rotten
> box. Funny, if you put a little work in something it begins
> to feel your own. I wouldn't trade that trailer now for anything.
>
> It doesn't look bad. Has a light patina rust, but not too
> badly. Seems pretty sturdy. The round tube tongue goes back
> to the axle. Then there are two full length girders crossed
> by five from side to side. Has five leaf springs. It looks
> about twice as heavy as the lightest trailers seen. But to
> pick it up to roll around is really very easy.
>
> The coupler works. It tracked real well behind the car when
> coming over here. Probably ought to grease the bearings
> before heading for the coast.
>
> I thought it might be necessary to shift the axle aft, but
> now don't think so. Standing on the back sinks it about an
> inch closer to absolutely level. That's just where the
> batteries will rest right near the boat's widest section, so
> I feel okay about the long boat hanging out. I kept some of
> the hardware anchors just to really cinch it down.
>
> The economics of a castoff dictate using it as is. But I'm
> getting away so clean, it might just get the longer tongue.
> The quote to do it for $100 was actually pretty good. Retail
> new, the pipe would be at least half of that. My friend told
> me about a scrapper nearby where that'll be just ten. I'm
> not sure people's lives ought to depend on my first welding
> job, so I'll go somewhere for help with that in hand.
>
> A poor thing but mine own.
> Thanks for all the brainstorm.
>
> Mark

Thanks for these. I need them also for my comfortable, but
antique, Audi boatcar.
I'll find the rusty trailer thread.

Mark

"Harry W. James" wrote:

>
> For rust check out
>
>http://www.por15.com/
>
> Also Bruce Hector of Civilian Aircraft Carrier fame deals
> in rust
> preventive paint.
>
>http://www.rustcheckkingston.com/
>
> You have to admire his restraint in not promoting his
> business when the
> rusty trailer thread started. Of course he might have been
> in the boat
> shop drinking beer and missed it.
>
> HJ

For rust check out

http://www.por15.com/

Also Bruce Hector of Civilian Aircraft Carrier fame deals in rust
preventive paint.

http://www.rustcheckkingston.com/

You have to admire his restraint in not promoting his business when the
rusty trailer thread started. Of course he might have been in the boat
shop drinking beer and missed it.

HJ

Mark Albanese wrote:

>
> I had a chance this afternoon to strip off the old, rotten
> box. Funny, if you put a little work in something it begins
> to feel your own. I wouldn't trade that trailer now for anything.
>
> It doesn't look bad. Has a light patina rust, but not too
> badly. Seems pretty sturdy. The round tube tongue goes back
> to the axle. Then there are two full length girders crossed
> by five from side to side. Has five leaf springs. It looks
> about twice as heavy as the lightest trailers seen. But to
> pick it up to roll around is really very easy.
>
> T

I had a chance this afternoon to strip off the old, rotten
box. Funny, if you put a little work in something it begins
to feel your own. I wouldn't trade that trailer now for anything.

It doesn't look bad. Has a light patina rust, but not too
badly. Seems pretty sturdy. The round tube tongue goes back
to the axle. Then there are two full length girders crossed
by five from side to side. Has five leaf springs. It looks
about twice as heavy as the lightest trailers seen. But to
pick it up to roll around is really very easy.

The coupler works. It tracked real well behind the car when
coming over here. Probably ought to grease the bearings
before heading for the coast.

I thought it might be necessary to shift the axle aft, but
now don't think so. Standing on the back sinks it about an
inch closer to absolutely level. That's just where the
batteries will rest right near the boat's widest section, so
I feel okay about the long boat hanging out. I kept some of
the hardware anchors just to really cinch it down.

The economics of a castoff dictate using it as is. But I'm
getting away so clean, it might just get the longer tongue.
The quote to do it for $100 was actually pretty good. Retail
new, the pipe would be at least half of that. My friend told
me about a scrapper nearby where that'll be just ten. I'm
not sure people's lives ought to depend on my first welding
job, so I'll go somewhere for help with that in hand.

A poor thing but mine own.
Thanks for all the brainstorm.

Mark

Mark:

Get this: The tongue went all the way to a small frame (maybe four feet long) which carried the axel and a 4x4 bolster. There was another smaller bolster attached to the tongue about three feet aft of the stem (remember this is a flat bottomed boat). I had two strong straps that I ran around the two bolsters and over the boat to secure the trailer to the boat. The trailer by itself was kind of springy, but when it was strapped to that big box beam (the hull of the boat), the whole package was quite solid. It seems strange, but both trailer and boat were very light, and the system worked well. The tires carrying this 30 ft boat were 4x8 - 2 ply. I pulled it thousands of miles without incident.

Chuck
Hi.

Chuck, I took the thing partly thinking it would be hefty
enough to take a much heavier craft in future.
Then the saving could be worth the cost of all mods. Just
what was your trailer's tongue like?

rlspell2000 wrote:

>
> Not galvanized, but $125 cheaper.
>http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=5002

Yes, I'd be glad to have one of those today. The EZ Loader
includes the shipping though, which adds 50 - 60 dollars to
the other. But here! The same Chinese trailer on sale right
now at $269. Never cheaper.
http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1063&prmenbr=6970

Mark

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Numbaone,

On the bolt up job, how much overlap beyond the cut? Beyond
the triangle, mine has only an elbow and an inch or so of
tube up to the coupler, so that might not work for me. But I
think your idea is very clever.

I've only seen Stevensen's wooden trailer on the net.
Richard Jagels has a beauty of a wishbone in some old Wooden Boat.

Thanks,
Mark

lewisboats wrote:

>
> I'm looking at a 'Ute' myself. It has an 8 ft flat bed,
> with a 6 ft
> folding ramp. I plan on extending the tongue, making the
> ramp
> removeable, putting on a winch and installing removeable
> bunks for
> various boat hull types. The bed is of 2X8 construction
> with slots
> between (good for water drainage). I have a 14.5 ft boat
> (my design,
> hope it floats!) that will call this home, along with a
> motorcycle
> when it needs to be hauled (with ramp). The one or two
> loads to the
> dump per year will also find passage on it. I have another
> boat
> design for it that may require the addition of strips of
> outdoor
> carpet on the 2x8s. This boat is SQUARE, so it will sit
> directly on
> the flat bed.
>
> If you are interested, you can pick up a book on welding
> and a 110v
> stick welder for about $75.00,....... always a good skill
> to have!
> Cut the tongue and splice in 6-8 ft of slightly larger
> stock. Or you
> can always cut the tongue, bolt 2 pieces to the outside
> and then bolt
> the cutoff between the other end of the 2 pieces.
> ---______---
> (picture the other side above the center). Round or
> square, it
> doesn't matter, so long as there are 2 or more bolts to
> prevent it
> from pivoting on the bolts (use 1/2" or better).
>
> I also found some trailer plans, in laminated wood, for
> light boats,
> but I can't seem to find them now, sorry! Maybe you could
> search for
> it. One of the bigger plans guys had a trailer that had
> the wishbone
> made of laminated 1X wood, so you could transfer the
> axles, wheels,
> springs and other hardware to it (or maybe you could DIY,
> without the
> plans?).

>

I'm looking at a 'Ute' myself. It has an 8 ft flat bed, with a 6 ft
folding ramp. I plan on extending the tongue, making the ramp
removeable, putting on a winch and installing removeable bunks for
various boat hull types. The bed is of 2X8 construction with slots
between (good for water drainage). I have a 14.5 ft boat (my design,
hope it floats!) that will call this home, along with a motorcycle
when it needs to be hauled (with ramp). The one or two loads to the
dump per year will also find passage on it. I have another boat
design for it that may require the addition of strips of outdoor
carpet on the 2x8s. This boat is SQUARE, so it will sit directly on
the flat bed.

If you are interested, you can pick up a book on welding and a 110v
stick welder for about $75.00,....... always a good skill to have!
Cut the tongue and splice in 6-8 ft of slightly larger stock. Or you
can always cut the tongue, bolt 2 pieces to the outside and then bolt
the cutoff between the other end of the 2 pieces. ---______---
(picture the other side above the center). Round or square, it
doesn't matter, so long as there are 2 or more bolts to prevent it
from pivoting on the bolts (use 1/2" or better).

I also found some trailer plans, in laminated wood, for light boats,
but I can't seem to find them now, sorry! Maybe you could search for
it. One of the bigger plans guys had a trailer that had the wishbone
made of laminated 1X wood, so you could transfer the axles, wheels,
springs and other hardware to it (or maybe you could DIY, without the
plans?).

--- In bolger@y..., Mark Albanese <marka@o...> wrote:
> I was given an old utility trailer. It's a little higher
> than ideal for a boat, but not so high as the top of the car.
> It's way too short. As is, the aft 7 ' of the 16' boat will
> hang out in the wind.
>
> The tongue is round tube instead of square and only one foot
> beyond the triangle, so just u-bolting on a longer beam or
> slipping a round one over the end w/ bolts through all are
> out. Called a trailer guy- he wants $100 for a welding. Add
> lights and a tire, it is definitely not smart to get too
> deep into this old thing.
>
> To use as is, I think the boat could be tied down firmly and
> not become a hazard. I tried to check the rules at the
> Oregon Dept. of Transportation for how much overhang's
> allowed, without success. Will I spoil my vacation doing
> this? Any other comments, please?
>
> Thanks,
> Mark

Richard,

I thought that was just temporary, not seeing it featured on
the web site this week. But a call to their 800 number
confirms it.

Thanks,
Mark

rlspell2000 wrote:

>
> Harbor has free shipping on orders over $50
> --- In bolger@y..., Mark Albanese <marka@o...> wrote:

Harbor has free shipping on orders over $50

--- In bolger@y..., Mark Albanese <marka@o...> wrote:
> Hi.
>
> Chuck, I took the thing partly thinking it would be hefty
> enough to take a much heavier craft in future.
> Then the saving could be worth the cost of all mods. Just
> what was your trailer's tongue like?
>
> rlspell2000 wrote:
> >
> > Not galvanized, but $125 cheaper.
> >http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?
itemnumber=5002
>
> Yes, I'd be glad to have one of those today. The EZ Loader
> includes the shipping though, which adds 50 - 60 dollars to
> the other. But here! The same Chinese trailer on sale right
> now at $269. Never cheaper.
>http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?
prrfnbr=1063&prmenbr=6970
>
> Mark
>
>
>
> Chuck Leinweber wrote:
> >
> > Mark:
> >
> > I used a converted utility trailer to haul my Tennessee
> > around. The trailer ended at the axel, and the boat
> > extended ten or twelve feet beyond that. I clamped a
> > piece of 2x4 on the transom and mounted tail lights on it
> > - then removed it to launch the boat. The whole thing
> > worked great. Oh, I did have to extend the tongue about
> > ten feet.
> >
> > Chuck

Dennis,

Where you located?

EZ Loader's are made here in the NW, so we do see a lot of
them. They have a complete line. Use for comparison if
nothing else. Pick, "Products" from
http://www.ezloader.com

Mark

pseudodion42 wrote:

>
> Speaking of Trailers, can anyone recommend a decent one
> for a 17 footer? Thanks,
>
> Dennis Marshall

If you've got it, here's why I think the EZ Loader is a
better value.

I called Northern to see how much the shipping. The spread
between the their boat trailer and the EZ Loader gets even narrower.

MN to OR
FedEX $118.93
UPS $120.49
Truck 110.95

The EZ UPS also has a winch.

The 4 x 4 utility ( again, the same as Harbor's ) is also
now on sale at Northern for $139.95. Now we're talkin'. Bolt
on longer tongue and wire harness comes to two hundred buck
or less. + Shipped to me is $71.27

Right back up to where it might make sense to spend a little
more and have the best.

I was over to the Portland Harbor Freight for something else
this week. They did not have the full selection of trailers.
What's on hand seemed about the same price as web ordering.
They must absorb the shipping. I must go back and see if
they ever have the 4 x 4's on cash and carry. Does anybody know?

Some people like shopping; not me. I will enjoy just backing
that boat into the water...

Mark

rlspell2000 wrote:

>
> Not galvanized, but $125 cheaper.
>http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=5002

Speaking of Trailers, can anyone recommend a decent one for a 17
footer? Thanks,

Dennis Marshall

--- In bolger@y..., Mark Albanese <marka@o...> wrote:
> Hi.
>
> Chuck, I took the thing partly thinking it would be hefty
> enough to take a much heavier craft in future.
> Then the saving could be worth the cost of all mods. Just
> what was your trailer's tongue like?
>
> rlspell2000 wrote:
> >
> > Not galvanized, but $125 cheaper.
> >http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?
itemnumber=5002
>
> Yes, I'd be glad to have one of those today. The EZ Loader
> includes the shipping though, which adds 50 - 60 dollars to
> the other. But here! The same Chinese trailer on sale right
> now at $269. Never cheaper.
>http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?
prrfnbr=1063&prmenbr=6970
>
> Mark
>
>
>
> Chuck Leinweber wrote:
> >
> > Mark:
> >
> > I used a converted utility trailer to haul my Tennessee
> > around. The trailer ended at the axel, and the boat
> > extended ten or twelve feet beyond that. I clamped a
> > piece of 2x4 on the transom and mounted tail lights on it
> > - then removed it to launch the boat. The whole thing
> > worked great. Oh, I did have to extend the tongue about
> > ten feet.
> >
> > Chuck

Hi.

Chuck, I took the thing partly thinking it would be hefty
enough to take a much heavier craft in future.
Then the saving could be worth the cost of all mods. Just
what was your trailer's tongue like?

rlspell2000 wrote:

>
> Not galvanized, but $125 cheaper.
>http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=5002

>
> Mark:
>
> I used a converted utility trailer to haul my Tennessee
> around. The trailer ended at the axel, and the boat
> extended ten or twelve feet beyond that. I clamped a
> piece of 2x4 on the transom and mounted tail lights on it
> - then removed it to launch the boat. The whole thing
> worked great. Oh, I did have to extend the tongue about
> ten feet.
>
> Chuck

Not galvanized, but $125 cheaper.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=5002

--- In bolger@y..., Mark Albanese <marka@o...> wrote:
>
>
> dnjost wrote:
>
> > As for your utility trailer, it might be a good thing for
> > hauling things to the dump,
>
> Including itself!
>
>
> >but I don't think that it fits your boat too well.
>
> No it doesn't. The best value in a light boat trailer is the $425
>http://www.ezloader.com/upsable.asp
> It's got everything, a good length, and is galvanized.
> My sense of proportion is troubled when the trailer costs
> more than the boat.
>
> > I priced out a new trailer for Micro today. $750 total.
> > I calculated that the axle, tires, springs, steel would
> > run close to $500. I think it is worth the extra $250 to not
have to
> > weld the thing.
>
> That's a good deal! Shopping for some parts to fix my
> clunker in the Northern catalog went up fast.
>
>
> >One wrong move and your pride, and boat are
> > damaged. Perhaps severely.
>
> Could tolerate that; just don't want to hurt nobody.
>
>
> > For what it is worth.
>
> Your's is very good advice. I'm thinking there might be
> shorter boats to have some fun with now.
>
> Thanks,
> Mark
>
> >
> > >
> > > To use as is, I think the boat could be tied down firmly
> > and
> > > not become a hazard. I tried to check the rules at the
> > > Oregon Dept. of Transportation for how much overhang's
> > > allowed, without success. Will I spoil my vacation doing
> > > this? Any other comments, please?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Mark
> >

Mark:

I used a converted utility trailer to haul my Tennessee around. The trailer ended at the axel, and the boat extended ten or twelve feet beyond that. I clamped a piece of 2x4 on the transom and mounted tail lights on it - then removed it to launch the boat. The whole thing worked great. Oh, I did have to extend the tongue about ten feet.

Chuck

----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Albanese
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 29, 2002 6:18 PM
Subject: [bolger] Old Trailer

I was given an old utility trailer. It's a little higher
than ideal for a boat, but not so high as the top of the car.
It's way too short. As is, the aft 7 ' of the 16' boat will
hang out in the wind.

The tongue is round tube instead of square and only one foot
beyond the triangle, so just u-bolting on a longer beam or
slipping a round one over the end w/ bolts through all are
out. Called a trailer guy- he wants $100 for a welding. Add
lights and a tire, it is definitely not smart to get too
deep into this old thing.

To use as is, I think the boat could be tied down firmly and
not become a hazard. I tried to check the rules at the
Oregon Dept. of Transportation for how much overhang's
allowed, without success. Will I spoil my vacation doing
this? Any other comments, please?

Thanks,
Mark

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

dnjost wrote:

> As for your utility trailer, it might be a good thing for
> hauling things to the dump,

Including itself!

>but I don't think that it fits your boat too well.

No it doesn't. The best value in a light boat trailer is the $425
http://www.ezloader.com/upsable.asp
It's got everything, a good length, and is galvanized.
My sense of proportion is troubled when the trailer costs
more than the boat.

> I priced out a new trailer for Micro today. $750 total.
> I calculated that the axle, tires, springs, steel would
> run close to $500. I think it is worth the extra $250 to not have to
> weld the thing.

That's a good deal! Shopping for some parts to fix my
clunker in the Northern catalog went up fast.

>One wrong move and your pride, and boat are
> damaged. Perhaps severely.

Could tolerate that; just don't want to hurt nobody.

> For what it is worth.

Your's is very good advice. I'm thinking there might be
shorter boats to have some fun with now.

Thanks,
Mark

>
> >
> > To use as is, I think the boat could be tied down firmly
> and
> > not become a hazard. I tried to check the rules at the
> > Oregon Dept. of Transportation for how much overhang's
> > allowed, without success. Will I spoil my vacation doing
> > this? Any other comments, please?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Mark
>

I priced out a new trailer for Micro today. $750 total.
I calculated that the axle, tires, springs, steel would run close to
$500. I think it is worth the extra $250 to not have to weld the
thing.

As for your utility trailer, it might be a good thing for hauling
things to the dump, but I don't think that it fits your boat too
well. One wrong move and your pride, and boat are damaged. Perhaps
severely.

For what it is worth.
David JOst

>
> To use as is, I think the boat could be tied down firmly and
> not become a hazard. I tried to check the rules at the
> Oregon Dept. of Transportation for how much overhang's
> allowed, without success. Will I spoil my vacation doing
> this? Any other comments, please?
>
> Thanks,
> Mark

I was given an old utility trailer. It's a little higher
than ideal for a boat, but not so high as the top of the car.
It's way too short. As is, the aft 7 ' of the 16' boat will
hang out in the wind.

The tongue is round tube instead of square and only one foot
beyond the triangle, so just u-bolting on a longer beam or
slipping a round one over the end w/ bolts through all are
out. Called a trailer guy- he wants $100 for a welding. Add
lights and a tire, it is definitely not smart to get too
deep into this old thing.

To use as is, I think the boat could be tied down firmly and
not become a hazard. I tried to check the rules at the
Oregon Dept. of Transportation for how much overhang's
allowed, without success. Will I spoil my vacation doing
this? Any other comments, please?

Thanks,
Mark