Re: Kotick experiment update
> thickening my varnish with "cab-o-sil", I don't think thatJust a follow up, the dullness was caused by me buying "satin"
> is a great idea. ...the damage, IE dullness and crazing.
varnish instead of gloss [duh!], and the crazing is mostly limited to
where I have varnished over the black latex paint. A cover coating
of gloss varnish seems to fix things, mostly. Actually, "cab-o-sil"
in the varnish gives it really good "smoothing" qualities, covering
up roughness in the epoxy, and maybe it *is* a worthwhile thing to do.
My learning experiment with Kotick continues, and I am nearly done.
I quit counting hours spent, these last few weeks has been slow...one
hour working on a coat of epoxy...three days waiting for it to
cure...repeat. Probably 45 to 50 manhours total work so far,
including the padle.
Random thoughts...that 5 minute "ultra fast" epoxy from Raka is
handy. After giving the boat a dry run on my lawn, it was tight for
my legs/feet and the back edge of the coaming was too flat/sharp and
hurt my back. I cut off the front coaming with my skill saw and and
raised it an inch, and I cut off the back coaming and replaced it
with a "sculpted" piece cut from a 2x4. Glued back together with the
ultra fast epoxy, better than new.
In the spirit of experimentation, I tried thickening my varnish
with "cab-o-sil", I don't think that is a great idea. Hopefully, one
more coat of clear varnish will repair the damage, IE dullness and
crazing. Though the thick coating has leveled out most of *many*
epoxy blemishes which is a good thing. See:
http://www.hallman.org/bolger/Kotick/hour50_2.jpg
and more at
http://www.hallman.org/bolger/Kotick/
To obsure the massive bondo patches while still retaining some
evidence the boat is made of wood, I tinted the epoxy with oil paint
from a tube bought at an artist store. The Gamblin (sp?) website
describes the opacity/transparency of their paints, choose a
transparent color. I chose red, on the hunch it would block UV
light. Next time, I think bright green might be nice. I painted the
coaming and interior of cockpit in black for the heck of it.
==
Also, instead of wasting time "watching paint dry" I fit the dagger
board case and mast box into my Tortoise:
http://www.hallman.org/bolger/Kotick/tortoise_sail_retro.jpg
I quit counting hours spent, these last few weeks has been slow...one
hour working on a coat of epoxy...three days waiting for it to
cure...repeat. Probably 45 to 50 manhours total work so far,
including the padle.
Random thoughts...that 5 minute "ultra fast" epoxy from Raka is
handy. After giving the boat a dry run on my lawn, it was tight for
my legs/feet and the back edge of the coaming was too flat/sharp and
hurt my back. I cut off the front coaming with my skill saw and and
raised it an inch, and I cut off the back coaming and replaced it
with a "sculpted" piece cut from a 2x4. Glued back together with the
ultra fast epoxy, better than new.
In the spirit of experimentation, I tried thickening my varnish
with "cab-o-sil", I don't think that is a great idea. Hopefully, one
more coat of clear varnish will repair the damage, IE dullness and
crazing. Though the thick coating has leveled out most of *many*
epoxy blemishes which is a good thing. See:
http://www.hallman.org/bolger/Kotick/hour50_2.jpg
and more at
http://www.hallman.org/bolger/Kotick/
To obsure the massive bondo patches while still retaining some
evidence the boat is made of wood, I tinted the epoxy with oil paint
from a tube bought at an artist store. The Gamblin (sp?) website
describes the opacity/transparency of their paints, choose a
transparent color. I chose red, on the hunch it would block UV
light. Next time, I think bright green might be nice. I painted the
coaming and interior of cockpit in black for the heck of it.
==
Also, instead of wasting time "watching paint dry" I fit the dagger
board case and mast box into my Tortoise:
http://www.hallman.org/bolger/Kotick/tortoise_sail_retro.jpg
