Re: [bolger] Re: Maranti?
On Tue, 9 Apr 2002, pauldayau wrote:
layer of lauan or meranti (not exactly the same thing). Then the krafy
paper in resin.
> Jeff, Here in west australia we have HDO rather than MDO The outerThe MDO I am currently using has several Doug Fir layers, and then a thin
> layers have a very thin layer of Meranti then the paper.
layer of lauan or meranti (not exactly the same thing). Then the krafy
paper in resin.
Great help, thanks. I think I'll try the Meranti. I like the no voids thing. Also, the samples I looked at last night were very smooth and nice. A couple patches but done well, very much like marine fir. The edges had no voids, glue lines where even, etc. This was a stack of 3 pallets of 66 sheets each. They all looked the same, at least on edge.
$400 extra is a lot, but the sign makers all say it doesn't check and putting glass and epoxy on is waste. They use an epoxy thinned with toluene (sp) to a consistency of varnish. It soaks in well, doesn't leave a orange peal finish, and paints well. I figure I can save about that much on the light glass I was going to put on the cabin tops and sides above the sheer. About 400 sq. ft. Time and labor saving are substantial.
I'll do as RAKA says and thin with denatured alcohol. I've done this before and it really does soak in nice.
Jeff
layers have a very thin layer of Meranti then the paper. This is
supposed to stop checking, and does it ever. Some of the salvaged
pieces I used on the schooner had been half buried for 3-4 years in
wet and dry conditions.
The bottom of my forard hull is 6 mm meranti. It was heavier than
the Occume but i found that it sanded better, but when I was cutting
it I was'nt so sure . I think that Id use it again.
It is also significantly cheaper here when sourced from a good
supplier.
almost all my framing is Meranti Bacause,
1 it didnt twist in the heat
2 Icould get it in 6.5metre lenghts.
3 It was all I could get!!!!!.
Onl;y other softwood here is plantation radiata. only good for cheap
housing, and nail guns.
any help?
cheers Paul
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$400 extra is a lot, but the sign makers all say it doesn't check and putting glass and epoxy on is waste. They use an epoxy thinned with toluene (sp) to a consistency of varnish. It soaks in well, doesn't leave a orange peal finish, and paints well. I figure I can save about that much on the light glass I was going to put on the cabin tops and sides above the sheer. About 400 sq. ft. Time and labor saving are substantial.
I'll do as RAKA says and thin with denatured alcohol. I've done this before and it really does soak in nice.
Jeff
>Jeff, Here in west australia we have HDO rather than MDO The outer
>
layers have a very thin layer of Meranti then the paper. This is
supposed to stop checking, and does it ever. Some of the salvaged
pieces I used on the schooner had been half buried for 3-4 years in
wet and dry conditions.
The bottom of my forard hull is 6 mm meranti. It was heavier than
the Occume but i found that it sanded better, but when I was cutting
it I was'nt so sure . I think that Id use it again.
It is also significantly cheaper here when sourced from a good
supplier.
almost all my framing is Meranti Bacause,
1 it didnt twist in the heat
2 Icould get it in 6.5metre lenghts.
3 It was all I could get!!!!!.
Onl;y other softwood here is plantation radiata. only good for cheap
housing, and nail guns.
any help?
cheers Paul
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- In bolger@y..., "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
layers have a very thin layer of Meranti then the paper. This is
supposed to stop checking, and does it ever. Some of the salvaged
pieces I used on the schooner had been half buried for 3-4 years in
wet and dry conditions.
The bottom of my forard hull is 6 mm meranti. It was heavier than
the Occume but i found that it sanded better, but when I was cutting
it I was'nt so sure . I think that Id use it again.
It is also significantly cheaper here when sourced from a good
supplier.
almost all my framing is Meranti Bacause,
1 it didnt twist in the heat
2 Icould get it in 6.5metre lenghts.
3 It was all I could get!!!!!.
Onl;y other softwood here is plantation radiata. only good for cheap
housing, and nail guns.
any help?
cheers Paul
> Anyone know of a handicap to using Maranti instead of MDO? It's aBS 6566 standard.
>Jeff, Here in west australia we have HDO rather than MDO The outer
> Jeff
>
>
layers have a very thin layer of Meranti then the paper. This is
supposed to stop checking, and does it ever. Some of the salvaged
pieces I used on the schooner had been half buried for 3-4 years in
wet and dry conditions.
The bottom of my forard hull is 6 mm meranti. It was heavier than
the Occume but i found that it sanded better, but when I was cutting
it I was'nt so sure . I think that Id use it again.
It is also significantly cheaper here when sourced from a good
supplier.
almost all my framing is Meranti Bacause,
1 it didnt twist in the heat
2 Icould get it in 6.5metre lenghts.
3 It was all I could get!!!!!.
Onl;y other softwood here is plantation radiata. only good for cheap
housing, and nail guns.
any help?
cheers Paul
FWIW -
Noah's Marine sells and ships BS 1088 and 6566 Meranti
http://www.noahsmarine.com/United_States/Plywoods-us/plywoods-us.html
Harbor Sales sells and ships Simpson Signal MDO:
http://www.harborsales.net/lookups.cfm?categoryID=11&subcategoryID=15
I talked briefly to a Harbor Sales rep out at the WoodenBoat show in
South Haven, MI last June. He was trying to talk me out of MDO,
because of void potential and quality of inner softwood plies (Who
woulda thunk he'd bad-mouth his own product)and was in favor of
sapele --http://www.harborsales.net/lookups.cfm?
categoryID=11&subcategoryID=3 -- which Thomas Firth Jones describes
and "cripplingly heavy."
Sounds like few if any in this group have had bad experiences with
MDO. Yes? Anyone bought Noah's Meranti? (I can stop in Buffalo on the
way north to visit my daughter in Toronto). Any sapele users?
Noah's Marine sells and ships BS 1088 and 6566 Meranti
http://www.noahsmarine.com/United_States/Plywoods-us/plywoods-us.html
Harbor Sales sells and ships Simpson Signal MDO:
http://www.harborsales.net/lookups.cfm?categoryID=11&subcategoryID=15
I talked briefly to a Harbor Sales rep out at the WoodenBoat show in
South Haven, MI last June. He was trying to talk me out of MDO,
because of void potential and quality of inner softwood plies (Who
woulda thunk he'd bad-mouth his own product)and was in favor of
sapele --http://www.harborsales.net/lookups.cfm?
categoryID=11&subcategoryID=3 -- which Thomas Firth Jones describes
and "cripplingly heavy."
Sounds like few if any in this group have had bad experiences with
MDO. Yes? Anyone bought Noah's Meranti? (I can stop in Buffalo on the
way north to visit my daughter in Toronto). Any sapele users?
--- In bolger@y..., "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> Anyone know of a handicap to using Maranti instead of MDO? It's a
BS 6566 standard.
>
> Jeff
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
http://www.cbs.state.or.us/external/bcd/tag/interp/93-92.pdf
Just found this link. It's a 1993 ruling from Oregon, allowing Meranti to be in the same class as red cedar and redwood for rot resistance. At least I know that is probably true so far.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Just found this link. It's a 1993 ruling from Oregon, allowing Meranti to be in the same class as red cedar and redwood for rot resistance. At least I know that is probably true so far.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
In a message dated 09-04-02 3:26:39 AM E. Australia Standard Time,
brucehallman@...writes:
"meranti", so a Google search with that spelling might produce additional
hits.
Howard
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
brucehallman@...writes:
> --- In bolger@y..., "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:Where I come from -- and maybe in other countries -- it's usually spelled
> > Anyone know of a handicap to using Maranti instead of MDO?
>
> I just Googled Maranti...I don't think they sell it where I live.
> But, it compares to lauan mahogony plywood, which I have used.
> [Called 'door skin', among other names.] Cheap and OK in my
> opinion.
>
>
"meranti", so a Google search with that spelling might produce additional
hits.
Howard
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I don't believe the "won't check". BC pine is "all plys are the same
wood and has even density" as is CDX sheating. They check like a
mother.
Stick with the MDO. FWIW, the paper face is pretty near waterproof. I
have pieces that have sat in the weather for nine months, and the
only ones that even notice are the ones that are small enough for the
water to wick up from the end grain.
That paper is sweet!
wood and has even density" as is CDX sheating. They check like a
mother.
Stick with the MDO. FWIW, the paper face is pretty near waterproof. I
have pieces that have sat in the weather for nine months, and the
only ones that even notice are the ones that are small enough for the
water to wick up from the end grain.
That paper is sweet!
--- In bolger@y..., "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> My supplier wanted to know if I'd prefer the Maranti over MDO.
$4.00 a sheet higher price but a little better quality than MDO
though still not true marine plywood. Should have the same finishing
qualities as MDO.
>
> Just curious if he is right or just trying to get another $400.00
out of me for the Wyo project. We had set up ordering the plywood on
4/15. After the tax season. (I owed big time). So I have 7 days to
decide, otherwise the MDO will be delivered on my driveway on the
16th.
>
> Here is what the supplier says:
>
> 1/2" Maranti
> **************
> BS 6566 which is a top grade exterior plywood with very minimal if
any interior voids. Usually found at edges from sawing. Unlike
marine grade, they aren't repaired at the factory. Only 7 plys
instead of 9 ply for marine BS1088 grade. Even thickness plys
throughout but 1/2 MM thinner surface plys than marine BS1088.
>
> Saphari wood which is similar to Luaun but same tree family
(Pacific Rim Mahogany)
>
> Good rot resistance, better than Okume, Fir, or Pine.
>
> Water proof glue with even glue lines.
>
> Both sides sanded but B and C grades, again with not voids. (Not
cabinet grade)
>
> Won't check since all plys are the same wood and has even density.
>
> Average panel weight is 50 lbs same as MDO but can vary 5 to 6 lbs
depending on where the plys where cut. I.E. outside or heartwood.
>
> Good gluing properties, about like Fir ply, not as good as MDO.
>
> Prefered 3 to 1 over MDO by local sign makers.
>
> *************************************************************
>
> Jeff
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>Your supplier says the signmakers prefer Maranti...judge >for yourselfI did just that over lunch hour. The answers are as varied as the products. I call three of the suppliers sign customers.
>if you can trust what he/she says. [Sounds like salesman >hype to
>me].
#1 - Only uses Maranti for signs being viewed from a distance or exposed to a lot of moisture. Says it last longer but without the paper, doesn't finish as well.
#2 - Uses MDO or Maranti, let's customer chose materials. If indifferent to small price difference he buys MDO. Wants Maranti where the sign is attached flush to a building saying it will last longer but, likes MDO for finish.
#3. Likes to use Maranti if sign has a lot of sun exposure say's the paint and sign last longer. Prefers MDO because it finishes better.
***********************************
So, looks like your right saying MDO finishes better but Maranti last longer, maybe.....
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- In bolger@y..., "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
for 'medium density overlay', which is named for the semi-hard paper
they glue on the faces of MDO plywood. The Maranti doesn't seem to
have this paper overlay.
Your supplier says the signmakers prefer Maranti...judge for yourself
if you can trust what he/she says. [Sounds like salesman hype to
me]. You might want to ask one of these signmakers. If it were me,
the medium dense paper overlay is what makes MDO the desirable
choice, at least in exposed parts of the boat needing a nice finish.
> Here is what the supplier says: <snipped>Seems like real nice plywood! Yet, the "MDO" is an abbreviation
for 'medium density overlay', which is named for the semi-hard paper
they glue on the faces of MDO plywood. The Maranti doesn't seem to
have this paper overlay.
Your supplier says the signmakers prefer Maranti...judge for yourself
if you can trust what he/she says. [Sounds like salesman hype to
me]. You might want to ask one of these signmakers. If it were me,
the medium dense paper overlay is what makes MDO the desirable
choice, at least in exposed parts of the boat needing a nice finish.
My supplier wanted to know if I'd prefer the Maranti over MDO. $4.00 a sheet higher price but a little better quality than MDO though still not true marine plywood. Should have the same finishing qualities as MDO.
Just curious if he is right or just trying to get another $400.00 out of me for the Wyo project. We had set up ordering the plywood on 4/15. After the tax season. (I owed big time). So I have 7 days to decide, otherwise the MDO will be delivered on my driveway on the 16th.
Here is what the supplier says:
1/2" Maranti
**************
BS 6566 which is a top grade exterior plywood with very minimal if any interior voids. Usually found at edges from sawing. Unlike marine grade, they aren't repaired at the factory. Only 7 plys instead of 9 ply for marine BS1088 grade. Even thickness plys throughout but 1/2 MM thinner surface plys than marine BS1088.
Saphari wood which is similar to Luaun but same tree family (Pacific Rim Mahogany)
Good rot resistance, better than Okume, Fir, or Pine.
Water proof glue with even glue lines.
Both sides sanded but B and C grades, again with not voids. (Not cabinet grade)
Won't check since all plys are the same wood and has even density.
Average panel weight is 50 lbs same as MDO but can vary 5 to 6 lbs depending on where the plys where cut. I.E. outside or heartwood.
Good gluing properties, about like Fir ply, not as good as MDO.
Prefered 3 to 1 over MDO by local sign makers.
*************************************************************
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Just curious if he is right or just trying to get another $400.00 out of me for the Wyo project. We had set up ordering the plywood on 4/15. After the tax season. (I owed big time). So I have 7 days to decide, otherwise the MDO will be delivered on my driveway on the 16th.
Here is what the supplier says:
1/2" Maranti
**************
BS 6566 which is a top grade exterior plywood with very minimal if any interior voids. Usually found at edges from sawing. Unlike marine grade, they aren't repaired at the factory. Only 7 plys instead of 9 ply for marine BS1088 grade. Even thickness plys throughout but 1/2 MM thinner surface plys than marine BS1088.
Saphari wood which is similar to Luaun but same tree family (Pacific Rim Mahogany)
Good rot resistance, better than Okume, Fir, or Pine.
Water proof glue with even glue lines.
Both sides sanded but B and C grades, again with not voids. (Not cabinet grade)
Won't check since all plys are the same wood and has even density.
Average panel weight is 50 lbs same as MDO but can vary 5 to 6 lbs depending on where the plys where cut. I.E. outside or heartwood.
Good gluing properties, about like Fir ply, not as good as MDO.
Prefered 3 to 1 over MDO by local sign makers.
*************************************************************
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- In bolger@y..., "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
But, it compares to lauan mahogony plywood, which I have used.
[Called 'door skin', among other names.] Cheap and OK in my
opinion.
One complaint is that my lauan had thin surface layers, and was only
3-ply. MDO has the advantage of having a dense paper outer layer
which gives it excellent finishing quality, though MDO isn't
available as thin as Maranti and lauan. Maranti seems to be available
as thin as 3mm, which would be great for a super light weight plywood
lapstrake. You should give it a boil test to see if the glue is
water resistant enough.
> Anyone know of a handicap to using Maranti instead of MDO?I just Googled Maranti...I don't think they sell it where I live.
But, it compares to lauan mahogony plywood, which I have used.
[Called 'door skin', among other names.] Cheap and OK in my
opinion.
One complaint is that my lauan had thin surface layers, and was only
3-ply. MDO has the advantage of having a dense paper outer layer
which gives it excellent finishing quality, though MDO isn't
available as thin as Maranti and lauan. Maranti seems to be available
as thin as 3mm, which would be great for a super light weight plywood
lapstrake. You should give it a boil test to see if the glue is
water resistant enough.
Anyone know of a handicap to using Maranti instead of MDO? It's a BS 6566 standard.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]