Re: choice of wood for trim
Thanks Paul,
I used doug fir for the bulkhead frames, spruce for the rub rails
(set in epoxy and varnished)and in other parts of the boat. The
problem that I hit with these pieces is that they all need to be 5
1/2 inches wide and the only doug fir I have found is 4".
I am thinking of just going to the lumber mill down the street and
having him slice a hunk of White Oak for me. When it is green, it is
not bad to work with. It won't hold varnish real well though.
Bending is a snap with it if you get it wet enough. Schedule 40
drain pipe and an old pressure cooker will do smaller pieces.
I now know why teak is such a popular wood for these items.
David Jost
I used doug fir for the bulkhead frames, spruce for the rub rails
(set in epoxy and varnished)and in other parts of the boat. The
problem that I hit with these pieces is that they all need to be 5
1/2 inches wide and the only doug fir I have found is 4".
I am thinking of just going to the lumber mill down the street and
having him slice a hunk of White Oak for me. When it is green, it is
not bad to work with. It won't hold varnish real well though.
Bending is a snap with it if you get it wet enough. Schedule 40
drain pipe and an old pressure cooker will do smaller pieces.
I now know why teak is such a popular wood for these items.
David Jost
Hi Dave,
How about doug fir decking? Available in long lengths, straight as an
arrow, you can usually find a few decent tight-grain boards in a good stack,
and since it is sold for use underfoot outdoors, it's pretty tough and
rot-resistant. I have an old kayak paddle with a shaft made from a doug fir
closet pole, and where the varnish got scraped off, the wood has not gotten
very ugly from wetting, barely any stain at all after years of exposure (I
never refinish paddles, just make more). Doug fir will bend, grudgingly -
but get strips with no grain runout and it won't split. Looks real pretty
under varnish and epoxy. I trimmed out a canoe with it last year and it
looked great, was easy to work and took the curve of the gunnels well, and
was lighter in weight than either cherry or ash, which I couldn't find long
enough and didn't want to scarf. Only trouble I found with it is that if it
gets damaged, the splinters can be pretty nasty. If you're doing the rub
strips on Micro, I believe the plans show two separate strips sandwiched
together, so you get the full thickness but it's easier to bend.
Are you going to use the prescribed brass rub bands over the wood, or just
wood rub rails? That might preclude any concern about damage to the wood;
but that stuff's expensive!
Paul Lefebvrfe
How about doug fir decking? Available in long lengths, straight as an
arrow, you can usually find a few decent tight-grain boards in a good stack,
and since it is sold for use underfoot outdoors, it's pretty tough and
rot-resistant. I have an old kayak paddle with a shaft made from a doug fir
closet pole, and where the varnish got scraped off, the wood has not gotten
very ugly from wetting, barely any stain at all after years of exposure (I
never refinish paddles, just make more). Doug fir will bend, grudgingly -
but get strips with no grain runout and it won't split. Looks real pretty
under varnish and epoxy. I trimmed out a canoe with it last year and it
looked great, was easy to work and took the curve of the gunnels well, and
was lighter in weight than either cherry or ash, which I couldn't find long
enough and didn't want to scarf. Only trouble I found with it is that if it
gets damaged, the splinters can be pretty nasty. If you're doing the rub
strips on Micro, I believe the plans show two separate strips sandwiched
together, so you get the full thickness but it's easier to bend.
Are you going to use the prescribed brass rub bands over the wood, or just
wood rub rails? That might preclude any concern about damage to the wood;
but that stuff's expensive!
Paul Lefebvrfe
There is no specific call for any type of wood on these parts. I
want something that is relatively strong, holds a finish, and won't
rot away after a couple of seasons.
David Jost
want something that is relatively strong, holds a finish, and won't
rot away after a couple of seasons.
David Jost
> I cannot decide what wood to use for this. I am sorely temptedDid Bolger call for white oak? That would indicate that he thinks
> to have some white oak planed to 3/4 thickness as specified on
> Bolger's plans, but is this going overboard?
that strength is the most important quality - even more than ability
to take glue. Or that he expects that it will have to be steamed, I
suppose. Many people like the look of oak when varnished, but PCB has
commented that the varnish doesn't last long ("a week or more, if it
doesn't rain").
Peter
David:
I always go cheap. I figure that any kind of wood finished bright is "pretty".
If I need something durable, I use clear Southern yellow pine. Look in the #2 construction 2 by 8 & 10 piles for clear pieces that have bark on them, or that the planer has skipped. These have been downgraded to this cheap lower grade, but you can trip them down for some nice lumber.
If I don't need durability, or I do want to save weight, I use Western Red Cedar. Again you will have to do a little picking, but it is a lot cheaper than Mahogany.
Of course these tips might only apply to our area (Texas), but I can't help thinking that there are similar bargains in other areas.
Chuck
I always go cheap. I figure that any kind of wood finished bright is "pretty".
If I need something durable, I use clear Southern yellow pine. Look in the #2 construction 2 by 8 & 10 piles for clear pieces that have bark on them, or that the planer has skipped. These have been downgraded to this cheap lower grade, but you can trip them down for some nice lumber.
If I don't need durability, or I do want to save weight, I use Western Red Cedar. Again you will have to do a little picking, but it is a lot cheaper than Mahogany.
Of course these tips might only apply to our area (Texas), but I can't help thinking that there are similar bargains in other areas.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: dnjost
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 7:59 PM
Subject: [bolger] choice of wood for trim
Dear Group,
I have now reached the "trim" stage for the Micro Firefly.
I cannot decide what wood to use for this. I am sorely tempted
to have some white oak planed to 3/4 thickness as specified on
Bolger's plans, but is this going overboard?
My choices at Home Despot are limited to: cedar, pine, or pine.
At the local yard, I can get 5/4 Mahogany but not in the 6"
dimensions specified. I can drive to Slumerville and get Ash,
Cherry, or any other exotic at a price!
How did the other builders in the group handle this aspect of the job?
So far, I have Mahogany handrails for the cabin roof, ash trim in
the cockpit hatch, and mahogany around the companion way.
David Jost
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Dear Group,
I have now reached the "trim" stage for the Micro Firefly.
I cannot decide what wood to use for this. I am sorely tempted
to have some white oak planed to 3/4 thickness as specified on
Bolger's plans, but is this going overboard?
My choices at Home Despot are limited to: cedar, pine, or pine.
At the local yard, I can get 5/4 Mahogany but not in the 6"
dimensions specified. I can drive to Slumerville and get Ash,
Cherry, or any other exotic at a price!
How did the other builders in the group handle this aspect of the job?
So far, I have Mahogany handrails for the cabin roof, ash trim in
the cockpit hatch, and mahogany around the companion way.
David Jost
I have now reached the "trim" stage for the Micro Firefly.
I cannot decide what wood to use for this. I am sorely tempted
to have some white oak planed to 3/4 thickness as specified on
Bolger's plans, but is this going overboard?
My choices at Home Despot are limited to: cedar, pine, or pine.
At the local yard, I can get 5/4 Mahogany but not in the 6"
dimensions specified. I can drive to Slumerville and get Ash,
Cherry, or any other exotic at a price!
How did the other builders in the group handle this aspect of the job?
So far, I have Mahogany handrails for the cabin roof, ash trim in
the cockpit hatch, and mahogany around the companion way.
David Jost