Illinois?
Bolger has a live-aboard verison of the state
series, introduced in tandem with Puffer, a long, long
sharpy. I think it is called Illinois, and that it a
line drawing of the plan and profile were once in the
'Big Bolger Boats' section of the Bolger2 files, along
sith Puffer. I can't find it now. Does anyone know
where this line drawing is located? Thanks, Sam
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series, introduced in tandem with Puffer, a long, long
sharpy. I think it is called Illinois, and that it a
line drawing of the plan and profile were once in the
'Big Bolger Boats' section of the Bolger2 files, along
sith Puffer. I can't find it now. Does anyone know
where this line drawing is located? Thanks, Sam
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
Black Locust is a great wood for durabilty. It also looks great when
varnished. The drawbacks to it are that it is very hard to work with
and takes sharp tools to handle, and it is also a very heavy wood.
There is not a lot of trim to make that significant a difference, but
if I were to use it extensivly my Micro would need to be put on a
diet.
David Jost
varnished. The drawbacks to it are that it is very hard to work with
and takes sharp tools to handle, and it is also a very heavy wood.
There is not a lot of trim to make that significant a difference, but
if I were to use it extensivly my Micro would need to be put on a
diet.
David Jost
>
> Another hardwood that is durable, strong, easy to work, and VERY
> pretty when varnished that you should be able to find if you poke
> around is locust, "Robinia pseudoacacia", sometimes called black
> locust (not honeylocust). Like sasafrass and a few others there is
> not
> much, if any, commericial market for locust, but looking around you
> might find a source.
>
> Rick
--- In bolger@y..., "dnjost" <djost@m...> wrote:
south of you.
pretty when varnished that you should be able to find if you poke
around is locust, "Robinia pseudoacacia", sometimes called black
locust (not honeylocust). Like sasafrass and a few others there is
not
much, if any, commericial market for locust, but looking around you
might find a source.
Rick
> Hmm,Now that I think of it, reasonalbe size sasafrass would be further
> I have not seen sasafras in any stores,
south of you.
>Another hardwood that is durable, strong, easy to work, and VERY
> I am going with the white oak for the stern trim board that doubles
> as the mizzen partner, and will also use it for the upper rub rails
> since it bends so nicely. The white cedar will make great interior
> use for floorboards, wainscotting, etc...
pretty when varnished that you should be able to find if you poke
around is locust, "Robinia pseudoacacia", sometimes called black
locust (not honeylocust). Like sasafrass and a few others there is
not
much, if any, commericial market for locust, but looking around you
might find a source.
Rick
Hmm,
I have not seen sasafras in any stores, however I have seen
atlantic white cedar. That is a great possibility.
I have a sasafrass tree growing in my side yard, but it will be about
20 years until it is large enough to harvest. I can't wait quite
that long.
I am going with the white oak for the stern trim board that doubles
as the mizzen partner, and will also use it for the upper rub rails
since it bends so nicely. The white cedar will make great interior
use for floorboards, wainscotting, etc...
Thank you
David Jost
-- In bolger@y..., "sctree" <sctree@d...> wrote:
I have not seen sasafras in any stores, however I have seen
atlantic white cedar. That is a great possibility.
I have a sasafrass tree growing in my side yard, but it will be about
20 years until it is large enough to harvest. I can't wait quite
that long.
I am going with the white oak for the stern trim board that doubles
as the mizzen partner, and will also use it for the upper rub rails
since it bends so nicely. The white cedar will make great interior
use for floorboards, wainscotting, etc...
Thank you
David Jost
-- In bolger@y..., "sctree" <sctree@d...> wrote:
> --
> You're on the east coast, right?
> Why not locally available juniper, what is often called Atlantic
> White, or Eastern Cedar? Even comes in "boat grade". Sanded, but
> unfinished would make great floorboards.
>
> Another useful east coast "boat wood" is sasafrass.
>
>
--
You're on the east coast, right?
Why not locally available juniper, what is often called Atlantic
White, or Eastern Cedar? Even comes in "boat grade". Sanded, but
unfinished would make great floorboards.
Another useful east coast "boat wood" is sasafrass.
Rick
- In bolger@y..., "dnjost" <djost@m...> wrote:
You're on the east coast, right?
Why not locally available juniper, what is often called Atlantic
White, or Eastern Cedar? Even comes in "boat grade". Sanded, but
unfinished would make great floorboards.
Another useful east coast "boat wood" is sasafrass.
Rick
- In bolger@y..., "dnjost" <djost@m...> wrote:
> ok,WRC
> When I get a free moment, I will check out the availability of
> at a few lumber yards where they know the difference betweenpolyurethane
> boatbuilding wood, and wood suitable for a "what not shelf".
> I suppose if I finish clear with a coat of CPES and then
> over it, it should last a while. After all, this is trim that is
> not going to be stepped on a lot. WRC for the floorboards in the
> cabin, hatch, and bow compartment at any rate!
ok,
When I get a free moment, I will check out the availability of WRC
at a few lumber yards where they know the difference between
boatbuilding wood, and wood suitable for a "what not shelf".
I suppose if I finish clear with a coat of CPES and then polyurethane
over it, it should last a while. After all, this is trim that is
not going to be stepped on a lot. WRC for the floorboards in the
cabin, hatch, and bow compartment at any rate!
When I get a free moment, I will check out the availability of WRC
at a few lumber yards where they know the difference between
boatbuilding wood, and wood suitable for a "what not shelf".
I suppose if I finish clear with a coat of CPES and then polyurethane
over it, it should last a while. After all, this is trim that is
not going to be stepped on a lot. WRC for the floorboards in the
cabin, hatch, and bow compartment at any rate!
Chuck,
<snip>
I think you are mistaken, about durability as well as about weight of
Western Red Cedar & Southern Yellow Pine.
Western red cedar is a very durable wood, in fact as good as american
Mahogany and more durable than african Mahogany.
<snip>
Jacky
Jacky:
I guess I used the wrong word. WRC is extremely rot resistant, but is soft and brittle which makes it subject to abrasion. I said durable when I should have said abrasion resistant. My fault.
Chuck
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
<snip>
I think you are mistaken, about durability as well as about weight of
Western Red Cedar & Southern Yellow Pine.
Western red cedar is a very durable wood, in fact as good as american
Mahogany and more durable than african Mahogany.
<snip>
Jacky
Jacky:
I guess I used the wrong word. WRC is extremely rot resistant, but is soft and brittle which makes it subject to abrasion. I said durable when I should have said abrasion resistant. My fault.
Chuck
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I meant durable in the sense of rot resistance, certainly not
strong...
Western Red Cedar : Light, moderately soft, low strength and
shock resistance, very good decay resistance, and good stability
in service
Southern Yellow Pine: Moderately heavy and hard, stiff,
moderately strong and shock resistant, moderately stable in
service, and moderately decay resistant.
Is Chuck french? lol
strong...
Western Red Cedar : Light, moderately soft, low strength and
shock resistance, very good decay resistance, and good stability
in service
Southern Yellow Pine: Moderately heavy and hard, stiff,
moderately strong and shock resistant, moderately stable in
service, and moderately decay resistant.
Is Chuck french? lol
--- In bolger@y..., Chris Crandall <crandall@u...> wrote:
> Chuck said:
> > If I don't need durability, or I do want to save weight, I use
Western
> > Red Cedar. Again you will have to do a little picking, but it is
a
> > lot cheaper than Mahogany.
>
> Then Jacky said:
> > I think you are mistaken, about durability as well as about
weight of
> > Western Red Cedar & Southern Yellow Pine. Western red cedar is a
very
> > durable wood, in fact as good as american Mahogany and more
durable
> > than african Mahogany.
>
> I think that this is based on the technical meaning of durable.
While in
> French "dur" means hard or strong, in English, the technical
meaning of a
> "durable" wood is that it is rot-resistant. When we mean durable,
in
> everyday language, we usually mean that it's tough. Western Red
Cedar is
> really pretty soft, although it's rugged for walking on, leaning
against,
> and so on.
>
> As an experiment, on my Harmonica I put epoxy/tape on the outside
of a
> butt joint, and on the inside (the sides and cabin sole) I put some
1X3
> WRC boards. I walk on them all the time, kick them, drag things
over
> them. They've stood up remarkably well--even though the paint is
wearing
> off a bit, and is shiny, the wood's just fine.
Chuck said:
French "dur" means hard or strong, in English, the technical meaning of a
"durable" wood is that it is rot-resistant. When we mean durable, in
everyday language, we usually mean that it's tough. Western Red Cedar is
really pretty soft, although it's rugged for walking on, leaning against,
and so on.
As an experiment, on my Harmonica I put epoxy/tape on the outside of a
butt joint, and on the inside (the sides and cabin sole) I put some 1X3
WRC boards. I walk on them all the time, kick them, drag things over
them. They've stood up remarkably well--even though the paint is wearing
off a bit, and is shiny, the wood's just fine.
> If I don't need durability, or I do want to save weight, I use WesternThen Jacky said:
> Red Cedar. Again you will have to do a little picking, but it is a
> lot cheaper than Mahogany.
> I think you are mistaken, about durability as well as about weight ofI think that this is based on the technical meaning of durable. While in
> Western Red Cedar & Southern Yellow Pine. Western red cedar is a very
> durable wood, in fact as good as american Mahogany and more durable
> than african Mahogany.
French "dur" means hard or strong, in English, the technical meaning of a
"durable" wood is that it is rot-resistant. When we mean durable, in
everyday language, we usually mean that it's tough. Western Red Cedar is
really pretty soft, although it's rugged for walking on, leaning against,
and so on.
As an experiment, on my Harmonica I put epoxy/tape on the outside of a
butt joint, and on the inside (the sides and cabin sole) I put some 1X3
WRC boards. I walk on them all the time, kick them, drag things over
them. They've stood up remarkably well--even though the paint is wearing
off a bit, and is shiny, the wood's just fine.
> Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 22:31:39 -0500"pretty".
> From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@...>
> Subject: Re: choice of wood for trim
>
> David:
>
> I always go cheap. I figure that any kind of wood finished bright is
>the #2 construction 2 by 8 & 10 piles for clear pieces that have bark on
> If I need something durable, I use clear Southern yellow pine. Look in
them, or that the planer has skipped. These have been downgraded to this
cheap lower grade, but you can trip them down for some nice lumber.
>Cedar. Again you will have to do a little picking, but it is a lot cheaper
> If I don't need durability, or I do want to save weight, I use Western Red
than Mahogany.
>help thinking that there are similar bargains in other areas.
> Of course these tips might only apply to our area (Texas), but I can't
>Chuck,
> Chuck
I think you are mistaken, about durability as well as about weight of
Western Red Cedar & Southern Yellow Pine.
Western red cedar is a very durable wood, in fact as good as american
Mahogany and more durable than african Mahogany.
There are a few good sites for Wood characteristics; f.i.
http://www.woodbin.com/ref/wood/index.htm
You can read there:
Western Red Cedar : Light, moderately soft, low strength and shock
resistance, very good decay resistance, and good stability in service
Southern Yellow Pine: Moderately heavy and hard, stiff, moderately
strong and shock resistant, moderately stable in service, and moderately
decay resistant.
A very goed Belgian site (it's in dutch, so you probably can't read it
http://www.hout.be/frames/frame_steekkaarten_01.html)
puts WRC in durability class II and SYP in III, which is lower. Natural
(forest, not plantage) teak is class I.
The price of a wood is more dependent on the local availability.
So if WRC is cheap, take it!
Jacky