Re: Topaz
when you get them developed, see if they can't put them on CD, then
they are already in digital format and you just throw it in the drive
and send them out.
Steve
they are already in digital format and you just throw it in the drive
and send them out.
Steve
--- In bolger@y..., Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...> wrote:
> I have taken pictures, once I get them developed I'll
> try to get a friend with a scanner to post them for
> me. Unlike you guys who are computer savants, I
> congratulate myself just for being able to open my
> e-mail. Sam
> --- Chance Curtis <sneakeasy2002@y...> wrote:
> >
> > Sam : How about some pictures. Thanks
> > CCG
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
>http://sbc.yahoo.com
I think it is more accurate to describe us ("computer savants") as
terminally ill.
Mike
terminally ill.
Mike
--- In bolger@y..., Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...> wrote:
> I have taken pictures, once I get them developed I'll
> try to get a friend with a scanner to post them for
> me. Unlike you guys who are computer savants, I
> congratulate myself just for being able to open my
> e-mail. Sam
I have taken pictures, once I get them developed I'll
try to get a friend with a scanner to post them for
me. Unlike you guys who are computer savants, I
congratulate myself just for being able to open my
e-mail. Sam
--- Chance Curtis <sneakeasy2002@...> wrote:
Do you Yahoo!?
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
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try to get a friend with a scanner to post them for
me. Unlike you guys who are computer savants, I
congratulate myself just for being able to open my
e-mail. Sam
--- Chance Curtis <sneakeasy2002@...> wrote:
>__________________________________________________
> Sam : How about some pictures. Thanks
> CCG
Do you Yahoo!?
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
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Come on Sam, you're teasing us. We need pictures!
Stew
Stew
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sam Glasscock [mailto:glasscocklanding@...]
> Sent: Monday, September 30, 2002 12:58 PM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] Topaz
>
>
> Bolger's Topaz is a trailerable 31' glass-cabin
> picnic boat and light cruiser. As of Saturday, the
> number of operational Topazes (Topi?) has doubled. I
> put in Spat for the first time. She floated to her
> marks, and ran great with the 50hp high thrust Yamaha
> specified by Mr. Bolger--probably 16 knts wide open (I
> don't have a gps yet) with a nice cruise at about 12
> with little wake and little change in attitude. I put
> eight hours on her this weekend, and anchored out on
> her Saturday night with my daughter. The handling was
> better than I had expected, she feels very solid and
> manuverable. Makes a very comfortable cruiser.
> Trailering, launch and retrieval were easy. Since her
> design is both attractive and unusual, she drew lots
> of questions and comments from onlookers, far more so
> than I had expected. Once I get a gps on board, I'll
> provide more information on performance, fuel
> consumption, etc. if there is any interest. Sam
>
Sam : How about some pictures. Thanks
CCG
Sam Glasscock wrote: Bolger's Topaz is a trailerable 31' glass-cabin
picnic boat and light cruiser. As of Saturday, the
number of operational Topazes (Topi?) has doubled. I
put in Spat for the first time. She floated to her
marks, and ran great with the 50hp high thrust Yamaha
specified by Mr. Bolger--probably 16 knts wide open (I
don't have a gps yet) with a nice cruise at about 12
with little wake and little change in attitude. I put
eight hours on her this weekend, and anchored out on
her Saturday night with my daughter. The handling was
better than I had expected, she feels very solid and
manuverable. Makes a very comfortable cruiser.
Trailering, launch and retrieval were easy. Since her
design is both attractive and unusual, she drew lots
of questions and comments from onlookers, far more so
than I had expected. Once I get a gps on board, I'll
provide more information on performance, fuel
consumption, etc. if there is any interest. Sam
__________________________________________________
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New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
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Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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CCG
Sam Glasscock wrote: Bolger's Topaz is a trailerable 31' glass-cabin
picnic boat and light cruiser. As of Saturday, the
number of operational Topazes (Topi?) has doubled. I
put in Spat for the first time. She floated to her
marks, and ran great with the 50hp high thrust Yamaha
specified by Mr. Bolger--probably 16 knts wide open (I
don't have a gps yet) with a nice cruise at about 12
with little wake and little change in attitude. I put
eight hours on her this weekend, and anchored out on
her Saturday night with my daughter. The handling was
better than I had expected, she feels very solid and
manuverable. Makes a very comfortable cruiser.
Trailering, launch and retrieval were easy. Since her
design is both attractive and unusual, she drew lots
of questions and comments from onlookers, far more so
than I had expected. Once I get a gps on board, I'll
provide more information on performance, fuel
consumption, etc. if there is any interest. Sam
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I think Duckworks had a piece on the construction and "in the
water" shots of Topaz No. 1. It has been taken off the site but
may be on the archive CD Chuck sells. If anyone has this CD
could they check? I bought one but had trouble with it-- not Mac
compatible.
I remember it was a beautiful boat and the builder liked its
handling.
Vance
water" shots of Topaz No. 1. It has been taken off the site but
may be on the archive CD Chuck sells. If anyone has this CD
could they check? I bought one but had trouble with it-- not Mac
compatible.
I remember it was a beautiful boat and the builder liked its
handling.
Vance
--- In bolger@y..., "brucehallman" <brucehallman@y...> wrote:
> --- "Michial Thompson wrote:
> > Okay, I give, anyone got links to what the Topaz looks like?
>
>http://www.hallman.org/bolger/topaz/
again, I WANT ONE!
I have uploaded a page on aspect ratio, and a supporting figure:
Aspect_Ratio.jpg
Figure_7.jpg
They may be found in the Bolger2 files in the folder Planing boat
design rules.
My original intent was to provide just the rules with only enough
explanation to make the rule clear.
The discussion about the rules is begging for
more depth in derivation and development of the "rules". Time, talent,
and the copyright police prevent me from providing more information.
So..... while "The Naval Architecture of Planing Hulls" by Lindsay Lord
is out of print, copies are available through used book sellers for less
than $35.00 US. If you are curious buy the book.
hal
Aspect_Ratio.jpg
Figure_7.jpg
They may be found in the Bolger2 files in the folder Planing boat
design rules.
My original intent was to provide just the rules with only enough
explanation to make the rule clear.
The discussion about the rules is begging for
more depth in derivation and development of the "rules". Time, talent,
and the copyright police prevent me from providing more information.
So..... while "The Naval Architecture of Planing Hulls" by Lindsay Lord
is out of print, copies are available through used book sellers for less
than $35.00 US. If you are curious buy the book.
hal
--- "Michial Thompson wrote:
...shows a scan of the Topaz
diagram published in MAIB.
There is also a 'Gold Coast
Runabout' version. Both look
really beautiful.
Based on nothing more than
my intuition, I am guessing
that SA had quite a bit to
do with the 'looks' of this
design.
Once again, I WANT ONE!
> Okay, I give, anyone got links to what the Topaz looks like?http://www.hallman.org/bolger/topaz/
...shows a scan of the Topaz
diagram published in MAIB.
There is also a 'Gold Coast
Runabout' version. Both look
really beautiful.
Based on nothing more than
my intuition, I am guessing
that SA had quite a bit to
do with the 'looks' of this
design.
Once again, I WANT ONE!
Okay, I give, anyone got links to what the Topaz looks like?
At 10:57 AM 9/30/2002 -0700, you wrote:
At 10:57 AM 9/30/2002 -0700, you wrote:
> Bolger's Topaz is a trailerable 31' glass-cabin
>picnic boat and light cruiser. As of Saturday, the
>number of operational Topazes (Topi?) has doubled. I
>put in Spat for the first time. She floated to her
>marks, and ran great with the 50hp high thrust Yamaha
>specified by Mr. Bolger--probably 16 knts wide open (I
>don't have a gps yet) with a nice cruise at about 12
>with little wake and little change in attitude. I put
>eight hours on her this weekend, and anchored out on
>her Saturday night with my daughter. The handling was
>better than I had expected, she feels very solid and
>manuverable. Makes a very comfortable cruiser.
>Trailering, launch and retrieval were easy. Since her
>design is both attractive and unusual, she drew lots
>of questions and comments from onlookers, far more so
>than I had expected. Once I get a gps on board, I'll
>provide more information on performance, fuel
>consumption, etc. if there is any interest. Sam
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do you Yahoo!?
>New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
>http://sbc.yahoo.com
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
>01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Hi -
Excellent.
Photos please!
Thanks.
Mike
Excellent.
Photos please!
Thanks.
Mike
--- In bolger@y..., Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...> wrote:
> Bolger's Topaz is a trailerable 31' glass-cabin
> picnic boat and light cruiser. As of Saturday, the
> number of operational Topazes (Topi?) has doubled. I
> put in Spat for the first time.
Bolger's Topaz is a trailerable 31' glass-cabin
picnic boat and light cruiser. As of Saturday, the
number of operational Topazes (Topi?) has doubled. I
put in Spat for the first time. She floated to her
marks, and ran great with the 50hp high thrust Yamaha
specified by Mr. Bolger--probably 16 knts wide open (I
don't have a gps yet) with a nice cruise at about 12
with little wake and little change in attitude. I put
eight hours on her this weekend, and anchored out on
her Saturday night with my daughter. The handling was
better than I had expected, she feels very solid and
manuverable. Makes a very comfortable cruiser.
Trailering, launch and retrieval were easy. Since her
design is both attractive and unusual, she drew lots
of questions and comments from onlookers, far more so
than I had expected. Once I get a gps on board, I'll
provide more information on performance, fuel
consumption, etc. if there is any interest. Sam
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
picnic boat and light cruiser. As of Saturday, the
number of operational Topazes (Topi?) has doubled. I
put in Spat for the first time. She floated to her
marks, and ran great with the 50hp high thrust Yamaha
specified by Mr. Bolger--probably 16 knts wide open (I
don't have a gps yet) with a nice cruise at about 12
with little wake and little change in attitude. I put
eight hours on her this weekend, and anchored out on
her Saturday night with my daughter. The handling was
better than I had expected, she feels very solid and
manuverable. Makes a very comfortable cruiser.
Trailering, launch and retrieval were easy. Since her
design is both attractive and unusual, she drew lots
of questions and comments from onlookers, far more so
than I had expected. Once I get a gps on board, I'll
provide more information on performance, fuel
consumption, etc. if there is any interest. Sam
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
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Well other than looks, Drake Tails to serve that purpose. Thats why putting the motor in a well would allow you to run the tail clear across the back , thus adding 1/3 more bouyancy.
CCG
Bruce Hector
wrote:Slipper stern/drakes tail function, isn't it to get some bouyancy out
past the weight of the motor to help keep the stern from dragging?
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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CCG
Bruce Hector
wrote:Slipper stern/drakes tail function, isn't it to get some bouyancy out
past the weight of the motor to help keep the stern from dragging?
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> The slipper stern is also a whole lot easier to climb aboardThis was also part of the thinking. If you look at some of the
> on. A few years ago when I was in a whole lot better
> physical shape I fell overboard from a 26' sailboat. I had a
> very difficult time getting back aboard that boat even with
> its low freeboard amidships etc. The slipper stern on my
> bolger catamaran is a snap to climb onto. I'll bet that the
> Wyoming is pretty good too. Of course, there are other
> things that help, but that is basic, and easy. Jim
stern photos of my Wyo, you'll a that the cutout for the motors
runs at a 45 degree angle for the inside corners. These are
actually going to be 6" to 8" below the waterline. They are to
be used as a step and are big enough to get both feet on so you
can step up into the splash well. With the slipper stern, it
should be even easier.
Jeff
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
The slipper stern is also a whole lot easier to climb aboard on. A few years ago when I was in a
whole lot better physical shape I fell overboard from a 26' sailboat. I had a very difficult time
getting back aboard that boat even with its low freeboard amidships etc.
The slipper stern on my bolger catamaran is a snap to climb onto. I'll bet that the Wyoming is pretty
good too. Of course, there are other things that help, but that is basic, and easy.
Jim
David Ryan wrote:
whole lot better physical shape I fell overboard from a 26' sailboat. I had a very difficult time
getting back aboard that boat even with its low freeboard amidships etc.
The slipper stern on my bolger catamaran is a snap to climb onto. I'll bet that the Wyoming is pretty
good too. Of course, there are other things that help, but that is basic, and easy.
Jim
David Ryan wrote:
> >I agree that the slipper
> >stern looks better, kind
> >of like the looks of
> >Sneakeasy, that many people
> >like. I also would bet
> >that there is a functional
> >reason PCB chose the slipper
> >stern too.
>
> The slipper stern *definitely* looks better; good enough to be
> justification enough. I also thought it was a ramp for the Gypsy
> shown pulled into the cockpit in BWOM.
> --
>
> C.E.P.
> 415 W.46th Street
> New York, New York 10036
>http://www.crumblingempire.com
> Mobile (646) 325-8325
> Office (212) 247-0296
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> Slipper stern/drakes tail function, isn't it to get someThis is probably true on a light boat like the Sneakeasy. I
> bouyancy out past the weight of the motor to help keep the
> stern from dragging?
would doublt that the 200 lbs or so of added bouancy on a boat
like the Wyo would make any difference on a 10,000 lb. fully
loaded boat.
We tried several different looks on the stern including the one
designed for the aft cabin version. Without the cabin in the
back and the long cockipt, we just couldn't find anything to
look better than the slipper stern.
As my wife bluntly said about the slipper stern: "It's makes
the boat's butt look smaller, I like that!" It's a stern! I
said as it tried to correct her but to no avail, it's the back
of the boat so it's the butt! :>)
Oh well, lover her dearly!
By the way, I did get the coaming and seat in today.
Jeff
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
>I agree that the slipperThe slipper stern *definitely* looks better; good enough to be
>stern looks better, kind
>of like the looks of
>Sneakeasy, that many people
>like. I also would bet
>that there is a functional
>reason PCB chose the slipper
>stern too.
justification enough. I also thought it was a ramp for the Gypsy
shown pulled into the cockpit in BWOM.
--
C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
Mobile (646) 325-8325
Office (212) 247-0296
Slipper stern/drakes tail function, isn't it to get some bouyancy out
past the weight of the motor to help keep the stern from dragging?
past the weight of the motor to help keep the stern from dragging?
--- In bolger@y..., <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
in my limited first hand
experience, that every time
I have changed some detail
in a Bolger design, I have
later wished that I had not
done so.
I agree that the slipper
stern looks better, kind
of like the looks of
Sneakeasy, that many people
like. I also would bet
that there is a functional
reason PCB chose the slipper
stern too.
> ...Mr. Bolger had it right in the first place. ...I have noticed a trend
in my limited first hand
experience, that every time
I have changed some detail
in a Bolger design, I have
later wished that I had not
done so.
I agree that the slipper
stern looks better, kind
of like the looks of
Sneakeasy, that many people
like. I also would bet
that there is a functional
reason PCB chose the slipper
stern too.
If you want to check out his progress go to the link under Jeff's name
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
HJ
Chance Curtis wrote:
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
HJ
Chance Curtis wrote:
>
> Are you building a Sneakeasy?
> CCG
>boatbuilding@...wrote:I decided to go with the Slipper stern, I.E. Drake Tails. It
> took a lot of drawing different and looking at versions but
> decide Mr. Bolger had it right in the first place. I cut the
> stern profile and got the rubrails on tday. I will try to get
> the coaming, rear seat, and possibly some of the stern built
> out tomorrow.
>
> Jeff
> www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
>
>No, I'm building a Wyoming. The Sneakeasy is a 50% scaled down
> Are you building a Sneakeasy?
> CCG
version. The Sneakeasy probably weighs around 1000 lbs
depending on materials, the Wyo empty will be about 7000 lbs.
The Sneakeasy is 26' X 4'. The Wyo is 51' X 8'. The hulls are
almost identical in shape.
Jeff
Are you building a Sneakeasy?
CCG
boatbuilding@...wrote:I decided to go with the Slipper stern, I.E. Drake Tails. It
took a lot of drawing different and looking at versions but
decide Mr. Bolger had it right in the first place. I cut the
stern profile and got the rubrails on tday. I will try to get
the coaming, rear seat, and possibly some of the stern built
out tomorrow.
Jeff
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
CCG
boatbuilding@...wrote:I decided to go with the Slipper stern, I.E. Drake Tails. It
took a lot of drawing different and looking at versions but
decide Mr. Bolger had it right in the first place. I cut the
stern profile and got the rubrails on tday. I will try to get
the coaming, rear seat, and possibly some of the stern built
out tomorrow.
Jeff
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
---------------------------------
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New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I decided to go with the Slipper stern, I.E. Drake Tails. It
took a lot of drawing different and looking at versions but
decide Mr. Bolger had it right in the first place. I cut the
stern profile and got the rubrails on tday. I will try to get
the coaming, rear seat, and possibly some of the stern built
out tomorrow.
Jeff
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
took a lot of drawing different and looking at versions but
decide Mr. Bolger had it right in the first place. I cut the
stern profile and got the rubrails on tday. I will try to get
the coaming, rear seat, and possibly some of the stern built
out tomorrow.
Jeff
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
Thanks, those are very kind words.
Jeff
Jeff
> Jeff, I applaud your accomplishments. I must say I had my doubts01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> about your 3 part building program but it does seem you are making
> tremendous progress. I pat you on your back in congratulations, you
> are well ahead of what I would have speculated for the building time.
>
> I also admire you subsidizing your sons entertainment for space
> rental. You have a great asset in your helpful family. Your Wyoming
> will be become something that is cherished by the whole family.
>
> John
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> > I'm on vacation this week and didn't get my update on until
> tonight. I'm working on the 4x4s and intercoastals. By the end of
> the week, I hope to have the side panels, transom, and raised cockpit
> floor on, I hope.
> >
> >
> > Jeff
> > www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Jeff, I applaud your accomplishments. I must say I had my doubts
about your 3 part building program but it does seem you are making
tremendous progress. I pat you on your back in congratulations, you
are well ahead of what I would have speculated for the building time.
I also admire you subsidizing your sons entertainment for space
rental. You have a great asset in your helpful family. Your Wyoming
will be become something that is cherished by the whole family.
John
about your 3 part building program but it does seem you are making
tremendous progress. I pat you on your back in congratulations, you
are well ahead of what I would have speculated for the building time.
I also admire you subsidizing your sons entertainment for space
rental. You have a great asset in your helpful family. Your Wyoming
will be become something that is cherished by the whole family.
John
--- In bolger@y..., "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> I'm on vacation this week and didn't get my update on until
tonight. I'm working on the 4x4s and intercoastals. By the end of
the week, I hope to have the side panels, transom, and raised cockpit
floor on, I hope.
>
>
> Jeff
> www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I'm on vacation this week and didn't get my update on until tonight. I'm working on the 4x4s and intercoastals. By the end of the week, I hope to have the side panels, transom, and raised cockpit floor on, I hope.
Jeff
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Jeff
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> That sounds like about 1000-1200 to build the hull. Figure the sameI'm hoping somewhere around 2000 hours total. Of course that's just a wild
> again to fit out?
a**. guess, but it does seem reasonable so far.
The Wyoming is not a hard boat to build technically. It is very easy but
because it's a large boat, things can get heavy. The hardest part is the
discipline to go out and do something every night. I take Wednesdays off
and try not to work before 10 AM or after 5:00 PM on weekends, mostly my
sanity and for the neighbors. I figure even if it's just 20 minutes some
nights when I'm tired, those 20 minutes add up to hours in a months time.
Jeff
No, by November it starts staying cold enough epoxy won't set for several
days or more. I will have a heater for big jobs but only want to run it
when I'm around.
I can do a lot though as far as cutting and epoxy work on small items in a
10x17 shop attached to back of the garage. It's insulated and heated but
cramped so what ever I build will need to fit through the door. I put the
Bolger Nymph together in there last winter.
Mostly I'll look at it as vacation from boat building until April.
Jeff
days or more. I will have a heater for big jobs but only want to run it
when I'm around.
I can do a lot though as far as cutting and epoxy work on small items in a
10x17 shop attached to back of the garage. It's insulated and heated but
cramped so what ever I build will need to fit through the door. I put the
Bolger Nymph together in there last winter.
Mostly I'll look at it as vacation from boat building until April.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "proaconstrictor" <proaconstrictor@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2002 12:50 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Wyo
>
> > I average at least 15 hours per week so I guess somewhere around
> 250 - 300 hours on the front cockpit section. Rear section will be
> about the same but the center will take double that I'm sure. Then
> the fit out.......whew!
>
>
> Sounds pretty fast to me. Does your climate allow you to build most
> of the year around, or will you have to slow down a lot during the
> winter?
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>I average at least 15 hours per week so I guess somewhere around 250That sounds like about 1000-1200 to build the hull. Figure the same
>- 300 hours on the front cockpit section. Rear section will be
>about the same but the center will take double that I'm sure. Then
>the fit out.......whew!
>
again to fit out?
All in all, I'm inspired by your efforts. It really does look like
the hardest part is the doing, and that doesn't look all that hard.
Can't wait to see what PCB&F has for me and Sue this Fall!
YIBB,
David
--
C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
Mobile (646) 325-8325
Office (212) 247-0296
> I average at least 15 hours per week so I guess somewhere around250 - 300 hours on the front cockpit section. Rear section will be
about the same but the center will take double that I'm sure. Then
the fit out.......whew!
Sounds pretty fast to me. Does your climate allow you to build most
of the year around, or will you have to slow down a lot during the
winter?
Building a big boat is accomplished many small steps and huddles. From a contruction standpoint, I hit a mile stone in the fact I put 1/3 of a Wyo into storage! A month later than expected but I also managed to get several weeks of the rear cockpit work done at the same time. I just seemed more natural that once the front was moved out to the driveway to work away at the next section in the garage.
I average at least 15 hours per week so I guess somewhere around 250 - 300 hours on the front cockpit section. Rear section will be about the same but the center will take double that I'm sure. Then the fit out.......whew!
Jeff
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I average at least 15 hours per week so I guess somewhere around 250 - 300 hours on the front cockpit section. Rear section will be about the same but the center will take double that I'm sure. Then the fit out.......whew!
Jeff
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Both WEST and System 3 have white pigment.
HJ
lewisboats wrote:
HJ
lewisboats wrote:
>
> Where do you get epoxy pigment. This is the second time I've heard
> this recently but I cant find any pigment at my usual sites.
> Steve.
>
> --
> Jeff, When I make waterproof compartments or areas like yourI found it on the internet except as to how far a gallon will go when
> concerned about I always paint them with Gluvit.
painted on. It's almost double the cost of epoxy but will cover well, I
don't mind.
Jeff
Jeff, When I make waterproof compartments or areas like your
concerned about I always paint them with Gluvit. Yes it is a form of
epoxy but it is very slow to harden and soaks in all the cracks and
crevices. Everybody knows it is not the water that is outside the
boat that rots the bottom of wooden bulkheads or frame pieces. It is
condensation and fresh water from rain that makes it's way into those
places and starts it's evil reaction with the wood. Gluvit will
protect those areas and it will let the air absorb the water instead
of all the wood. Gluvit is also more flexible than other epoxies and
will not crack. I buy small used aluminum boats from people who sell
them because they have started to leak. Riveted boats are the worst.
I then coat them on the inside and out with Gluvit and it stops all
leaks.
You can use any pigmented Evercoat coloring agents in Gluvit to
change the color. When I sell that same aluminum boat I get top
dollar and I know it won't leak for another 30 years. It also has
great rub resistance, making it perfect for covering the bottom with
also. If you put Gluvit in those areas you wrote about Jeff you won't
be sorry. It isn't as cheap as paint but it's worth every penny
because it gives you an insurance policy against rot.
John
concerned about I always paint them with Gluvit. Yes it is a form of
epoxy but it is very slow to harden and soaks in all the cracks and
crevices. Everybody knows it is not the water that is outside the
boat that rots the bottom of wooden bulkheads or frame pieces. It is
condensation and fresh water from rain that makes it's way into those
places and starts it's evil reaction with the wood. Gluvit will
protect those areas and it will let the air absorb the water instead
of all the wood. Gluvit is also more flexible than other epoxies and
will not crack. I buy small used aluminum boats from people who sell
them because they have started to leak. Riveted boats are the worst.
I then coat them on the inside and out with Gluvit and it stops all
leaks.
You can use any pigmented Evercoat coloring agents in Gluvit to
change the color. When I sell that same aluminum boat I get top
dollar and I know it won't leak for another 30 years. It also has
great rub resistance, making it perfect for covering the bottom with
also. If you put Gluvit in those areas you wrote about Jeff you won't
be sorry. It isn't as cheap as paint but it's worth every penny
because it gives you an insurance policy against rot.
John
--- In bolger@y..., "jeff" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> Finished the second chine on the front section and well underway on
the cockpit section. I got both side panels laid out and cut to size
with one butt spliced and fabric laid down. All three layers on the
hull bottom are glued and nailed.
>
> The rear cockpit has a raised floor of about 12 inches. This
creates a large cavernous area underneath. I plan to lay in blue
foam for floatation but will keep it packed loosely to allow air
flow. I would doubt that water could ever get into this area unless
the boat was rolled upside down. The air flow through this area
starts at the bow and exhaust at the stern.
>
> Question: Would it be best to epoxy coat this whole area?
>
> It will take lots and lots of epoxy or could I get by coating it
with a good water sealer with mold resistance. With drain holes and
some air flow, it might be good enough but this area will be in
accessible once assembled. PB&F makes no mention other than painting
before final assembly.
>
> Jeff
>
> www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
"On the other hand, a little bit of the west goes a long
way."
Yes, use tiny amounts. 1/4 a dime size drop for a half a cup of resin
or less.
way."
Yes, use tiny amounts. 1/4 a dime size drop for a half a cup of resin
or less.
You can get it from System Three Epoxy
www.systemthree.com
I get all my epoxy and paint from these guys. I read about the
pigmented epoxy in their catalog, but I have yet to try it. I do
plan on trying it.
Mike
www.systemthree.com
I get all my epoxy and paint from these guys. I read about the
pigmented epoxy in their catalog, but I have yet to try it. I do
plan on trying it.
Mike
--- In bolger@y..., "lewisboats" <numbaoneman@b...> wrote:
> Where do you get epoxy pigment. This is the second time I've heard
> this recently but I cant find any pigment at my usual sites.
RAKA has pigments. I have some already and will use it as recommended.
It's great idea.
Jeff
It's great idea.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "lewisboats" <numbaoneman@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, August 26, 2002 11:59 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Wyo
> Where do you get epoxy pigment. This is the second time I've heard
> this recently but I cant find any pigment at my usual sites.
> Steve.
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "mikestockstill" <mkstocks@b...> wrote:
> > Hi -
> >
> > I would coat it, and did, in my Martha Jane. First coat with a
> > squeege and second coat with a roller should suffice.
> >
> > Best thing is to use some white pigmented epoxy on the second coat
> so
> > that it will be easy to see back in there. If you don't have any
> > epoxy pigment, then slap some white paint over the epoxy. The bond
> > won't be so great, but it will at least help you to see back in
> there.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > --- In bolger@y..., "jeff" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> > > Question: Would it be best to epoxy coat this whole area?
> > >
> > > It will take lots and lots of epoxy or could I get by coating it
> > with a good water sealer with mold resistance. With drain holes
> and
> > some air flow, it might be good enough but this area will be in
> > accessible once assembled.
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Thanks for the info. I also googled it and found this plastic place.
If you check the resin fillers & dyes link it has a dozen or so
colors. Epoxy seems a little expensive though
http://www.tapplastics.com/fiberglass/epoxy_resins/index.html
I will have to browse this place a little more.
Steve
If you check the resin fillers & dyes link it has a dozen or so
colors. Epoxy seems a little expensive though
http://www.tapplastics.com/fiberglass/epoxy_resins/index.html
I will have to browse this place a little more.
Steve
--- In bolger@y..., "lewisboats" <numbaoneman@b...> wrote:
> Where do you get epoxy pigment. This is the second time I've heard
> this recently but I cant find any pigment at my usual sites.
> Steve.
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "mikestockstill" <mkstocks@b...> wrote:
> > Hi -
> >
> > I would coat it, and did, in my Martha Jane. First coat with a
> > squeege and second coat with a roller should suffice.
> >
> > Best thing is to use some white pigmented epoxy on the second
coat
> so
> > that it will be easy to see back in there. If you don't have any
> > epoxy pigment, then slap some white paint over the epoxy. The
bond
> > won't be so great, but it will at least help you to see back in
> there.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > --- In bolger@y..., "jeff" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> > > Question: Would it be best to epoxy coat this whole area?
> > >
> > > It will take lots and lots of epoxy or could I get by coating
it
> > with a good water sealer with mold resistance. With drain holes
> and
> > some air flow, it might be good enough but this area will be in
> > accessible once assembled.
--- In bolger@y..., "lewisboats" <numbaoneman@b...> wrote:
fairing topcoats, and it also starts to lay in pigment that will help
block UV. Just cause you paint it does not mean you won't get UV
damage. Of course it also makes it easier to get to a clean coat of
paint with nothing showing through.
I have pigmented epoxies with almost anything I have lying around.
When making flies, I will mix in Testors model paints. No mater
what, it always sets, though sometimes it seems softer. My point is
I am sure you could track down a source of white pigment, at a paint
supplier, and fire that in. Just as you can fire in graphite powder
for black. On the other hand, a little bit of the west goes a long
way.
> Where do you get epoxy pigment. This is the second time I've heardWEST sells pigment is several colours, grey and white, to help
> this recently but I cant find any pigment at my usual sites.
> Steve.
>
fairing topcoats, and it also starts to lay in pigment that will help
block UV. Just cause you paint it does not mean you won't get UV
damage. Of course it also makes it easier to get to a clean coat of
paint with nothing showing through.
I have pigmented epoxies with almost anything I have lying around.
When making flies, I will mix in Testors model paints. No mater
what, it always sets, though sometimes it seems softer. My point is
I am sure you could track down a source of white pigment, at a paint
supplier, and fire that in. Just as you can fire in graphite powder
for black. On the other hand, a little bit of the west goes a long
way.
West Marine has it is several colors.
--- In bolger@y..., "lewisboats" <numbaoneman@b...> wrote:
> Where do you get epoxy pigment. This is the second time I've heard
> this recently but I cant find any pigment at my usual sites.
> Steve.
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "mikestockstill" <mkstocks@b...> wrote:
> > Hi -
> >
> > I would coat it, and did, in my Martha Jane. First coat with a
> > squeege and second coat with a roller should suffice.
> >
> > Best thing is to use some white pigmented epoxy on the second
coat
> so
> > that it will be easy to see back in there. If you don't have any
> > epoxy pigment, then slap some white paint over the epoxy. The
bond
> > won't be so great, but it will at least help you to see back in
> there.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > --- In bolger@y..., "jeff" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> > > Question: Would it be best to epoxy coat this whole area?
> > >
> > > It will take lots and lots of epoxy or could I get by coating
it
> > with a good water sealer with mold resistance. With drain holes
> and
> > some air flow, it might be good enough but this area will be in
> > accessible once assembled.
Where do you get epoxy pigment. This is the second time I've heard
this recently but I cant find any pigment at my usual sites.
Steve.
this recently but I cant find any pigment at my usual sites.
Steve.
--- In bolger@y..., "mikestockstill" <mkstocks@b...> wrote:
> Hi -
>
> I would coat it, and did, in my Martha Jane. First coat with a
> squeege and second coat with a roller should suffice.
>
> Best thing is to use some white pigmented epoxy on the second coat
so
> that it will be easy to see back in there. If you don't have any
> epoxy pigment, then slap some white paint over the epoxy. The bond
> won't be so great, but it will at least help you to see back in
there.
>
> Mike
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "jeff" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> > Question: Would it be best to epoxy coat this whole area?
> >
> > It will take lots and lots of epoxy or could I get by coating it
> with a good water sealer with mold resistance. With drain holes
and
> some air flow, it might be good enough but this area will be in
> accessible once assembled.
Hi -
I would coat it, and did, in my Martha Jane. First coat with a
squeege and second coat with a roller should suffice.
Best thing is to use some white pigmented epoxy on the second coat so
that it will be easy to see back in there. If you don't have any
epoxy pigment, then slap some white paint over the epoxy. The bond
won't be so great, but it will at least help you to see back in there.
Mike
I would coat it, and did, in my Martha Jane. First coat with a
squeege and second coat with a roller should suffice.
Best thing is to use some white pigmented epoxy on the second coat so
that it will be easy to see back in there. If you don't have any
epoxy pigment, then slap some white paint over the epoxy. The bond
won't be so great, but it will at least help you to see back in there.
Mike
--- In bolger@y..., "jeff" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> Question: Would it be best to epoxy coat this whole area?
>
> It will take lots and lots of epoxy or could I get by coating it
with a good water sealer with mold resistance. With drain holes and
some air flow, it might be good enough but this area will be in
accessible once assembled.
I would just paint it, if that.
Also, I wouldn't put the floatation in, and would put a couple of deckplates
in the floor for access and storages.
But's that's just me.
Also, I wouldn't put the floatation in, and would put a couple of deckplates
in the floor for access and storages.
But's that's just me.
----- Original Message -----
From: "jeff" <boatbuilding@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, August 26, 2002 10:29 AM
Subject: [bolger] Wyo
> Finished the second chine on the front section and well underway on the
cockpit section. I got both side panels laid out and cut to size with one
butt spliced and fabric laid down. All three layers on the hull bottom are
glued and nailed.
>
> The rear cockpit has a raised floor of about 12 inches. This creates a
large cavernous area underneath. I plan to lay in blue foam for floatation
but will keep it packed loosely to allow air flow. I would doubt that water
could ever get into this area unless the boat was rolled upside down. The
air flow through this area starts at the bow and exhaust at the stern.
>
> Question: Would it be best to epoxy coat this whole area?
>
> It will take lots and lots of epoxy or could I get by coating it with a
good water sealer with mold resistance. With drain holes and some air flow,
it might be good enough but this area will be in accessible once assembled.
PB&F makes no mention other than painting before final assembly.
>
> Jeff
>
> www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Finished the second chine on the front section and well underway on the cockpit section. I got both side panels laid out and cut to size with one butt spliced and fabric laid down. All three layers on the hull bottom are glued and nailed.
The rear cockpit has a raised floor of about 12 inches. This creates a large cavernous area underneath. I plan to lay in blue foam for floatation but will keep it packed loosely to allow air flow. I would doubt that water could ever get into this area unless the boat was rolled upside down. The air flow through this area starts at the bow and exhaust at the stern.
Question: Would it be best to epoxy coat this whole area?
It will take lots and lots of epoxy or could I get by coating it with a good water sealer with mold resistance. With drain holes and some air flow, it might be good enough but this area will be in accessible once assembled. PB&F makes no mention other than painting before final assembly.
Jeff
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
The rear cockpit has a raised floor of about 12 inches. This creates a large cavernous area underneath. I plan to lay in blue foam for floatation but will keep it packed loosely to allow air flow. I would doubt that water could ever get into this area unless the boat was rolled upside down. The air flow through this area starts at the bow and exhaust at the stern.
Question: Would it be best to epoxy coat this whole area?
It will take lots and lots of epoxy or could I get by coating it with a good water sealer with mold resistance. With drain holes and some air flow, it might be good enough but this area will be in accessible once assembled. PB&F makes no mention other than painting before final assembly.
Jeff
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
The latest issue of Wooden Boat has a big article on vacuum bagging. I just
got the mag today and haven't had a chance to check the article out yet.
got the mag today and haven't had a chance to check the article out yet.
On Mon, 19 Aug 2002 23:25:01 -0000, Charles wrote:
> Where is a good "how to vacuum bag" site? or book?
> A shop vac is enough if the goal is surface protection sheathing and
> a surface that needs little sanding - right?
--
John <jkohnen@...>
http://www.boat-links.com/
I must say I find television very educational. The minute somebody turns
it on, I go to the library and read a good book. <Groucho Marx>
--- In bolger@y..., "chodges31711" <chodges@a...> wrote:
for certain uses the vac is just great by itself. Once the bag is
tight, unlees you have a bunch of leaks the little pump will probably
be fine.
> > Sometimes people make vacuum pumps out of old compressors frombelow
> > refrigerators, tho there are sometimes lubrication issues.
>
> I have a vacuum pump that I use to sevice auto air conditioners. It
> is electric, about 1/4 hp. Is that enough volume. It will pull
> 29 Hg. I guess I could suck it down with a shop vac, then switch toYou can do just that if it is taking for ever to empty the bag. Also
> the pump.
>
> Charles
for certain uses the vac is just great by itself. Once the bag is
tight, unlees you have a bunch of leaks the little pump will probably
be fine.
Based on a lawsuit I am currently involved in, I would say it is a
XXX right up until there is a lawsuit (I pray never). Those are
major changes. You can get a feel for the attitude about some of
this stuff relative to the changes made by the long distance rower,
who didn't check back on the changes.
XXX right up until there is a lawsuit (I pray never). Those are
major changes. You can get a feel for the attitude about some of
this stuff relative to the changes made by the long distance rower,
who didn't check back on the changes.
> I for one think that we all tweak a design somewhere. Does my
> building the Wyo in 3 pieces still makes it a Wyo. I'm using
> the main cabin from the aft cabin version and the cockpit from
> the original, it still a Wyo? Using twin outboards to easy my
> worries instead of a single requires making the motor mount
> wider than designed, is it still a Wyo? I used manufactured
> windows in the cabin rather than home made wiley ports Mr.
> Bolger designed, is it still a Wyo?
>
> Safety is where designers truly draw the line on removing their
> name from the design.
>
> Because I have to build it in 3 pieces, as in no other option,
> I think it's stronger and safer dropping the 9 inches than
> having two splices in the side panels and hull bottom 9 inches
> apart. Especially when the design calls for an 8 inch over lap
> at the splice joints.
>
> Jeff
--- In bolger@y..., <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
basketball net... That should ballance the 9 inches nicely.
Not to say you need to bag it, it looks pretty good. But in the
situation in question the majority of it is simple you would just get
a 5 mil (thicker is fine) plastic sheet wider than tape by a fair
bit. You tape your garden hose with periodic holes in it onto the
boat. You run a bead of removeable draft caulking down each side and
enbed the plastic, . I didn't look at all you pictures, but where
you run into problems is with the material wrapped around the stem
(bagging problems). At the bow you would probably want another sheet
coming from the underside, just enough so the main sheet could run
off into space and then press up against it with the hose in the
middle.
I didn't see the tape on the non-bow end, so I am not sure. What I
often do is cut a semi circle at the junction point, and then plaster
the corner with circular glass patches. that gets me a great all
around contour. Normaly I would do all steps in one wet. But If I
had your tape to use up and wanted to bag it. I might do the usual
thing with semis held back from the corners, and that would give me
space to terminate the bag with caulk without going around corners.
If you don't have hose or think it might be a hassle, then you could
just tape something like some braiden poly rope to the side of the
joint as an airway, and create a little area of bag (the "yard")off
to one flat side, that the caulk goes around the perimeter of. Then
get any cap like object, like pastic pipe fitting, and thread an air
tool nipple into it for your vac hose. cut a small hole in the bag
in your "yard" area, put dum dum on the bottom off the cap, and drop
it in place. This fitting is pretty reuseable.
When the hose exits the bag or cap you need four 1/4" holes that will
pull fresh air into the vac or it will overheat. You just wrap
enough tape around the hose so it is a jam fit for the vac hose that
comes with the vac. Take out the vac filter etc that might cause
overheating, if you think that could be a problem. I never burnned
out a hop vac doing this. Drywall? a whole other story...
> >Whoa! she looks great! It's a big boat, but I hadn't figured on the
> > Sounds like a case for vacuum bagging. Try it you'll like
> > it.
>
> How would you do it on my set up. Check out the bottom of my
> website page.
>
> www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
>
> I don't know how t could be done.
>
> Jeff
basketball net... That should ballance the 9 inches nicely.
Not to say you need to bag it, it looks pretty good. But in the
situation in question the majority of it is simple you would just get
a 5 mil (thicker is fine) plastic sheet wider than tape by a fair
bit. You tape your garden hose with periodic holes in it onto the
boat. You run a bead of removeable draft caulking down each side and
enbed the plastic, . I didn't look at all you pictures, but where
you run into problems is with the material wrapped around the stem
(bagging problems). At the bow you would probably want another sheet
coming from the underside, just enough so the main sheet could run
off into space and then press up against it with the hose in the
middle.
I didn't see the tape on the non-bow end, so I am not sure. What I
often do is cut a semi circle at the junction point, and then plaster
the corner with circular glass patches. that gets me a great all
around contour. Normaly I would do all steps in one wet. But If I
had your tape to use up and wanted to bag it. I might do the usual
thing with semis held back from the corners, and that would give me
space to terminate the bag with caulk without going around corners.
If you don't have hose or think it might be a hassle, then you could
just tape something like some braiden poly rope to the side of the
joint as an airway, and create a little area of bag (the "yard")off
to one flat side, that the caulk goes around the perimeter of. Then
get any cap like object, like pastic pipe fitting, and thread an air
tool nipple into it for your vac hose. cut a small hole in the bag
in your "yard" area, put dum dum on the bottom off the cap, and drop
it in place. This fitting is pretty reuseable.
When the hose exits the bag or cap you need four 1/4" holes that will
pull fresh air into the vac or it will overheat. You just wrap
enough tape around the hose so it is a jam fit for the vac hose that
comes with the vac. Take out the vac filter etc that might cause
overheating, if you think that could be a problem. I never burnned
out a hop vac doing this. Drywall? a whole other story...
I couldn't quite figure which thumbnail to open, but if the corner was
already airtight, you could use the hull for 1/2 of the bag, and use
strip caulk or something to seal plastic against the hull for the
outside half. WHether that's worth it, I don't know. Might have just
chosen 2X as much 1/2 weight tape to drape better.
already airtight, you could use the hull for 1/2 of the bag, and use
strip caulk or something to seal plastic against the hull for the
outside half. WHether that's worth it, I don't know. Might have just
chosen 2X as much 1/2 weight tape to drape better.
--- In bolger@y..., <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> >
> > Sounds like a case for vacuum bagging. Try it you'll like
> > it.
>
> How would you do it on my set up. Check out the bottom of my
> website page.
>
> www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
>
> I don't know how t could be done.
>
> Jeff
> Hardly, it may be a better boat, not my point. It isn't aI for one think that we all tweak a design somewhere. Does my
> Bolger unless you get the change approved (or presumably
> the change is
> purely marginal, and I don't think 9" is that). It is fine
> to
> consider boat plans an extension of the Rorschach test, but
> don't expect the designer to share your imaginative
> departure. And let's be clear, the reason for this change
> was not to improve the boat's performance, or reduce any of
> the uncertainty you refer to, David. It was to avoid a
> joint etc...
building the Wyo in 3 pieces still makes it a Wyo. I'm using
the main cabin from the aft cabin version and the cockpit from
the original, it still a Wyo? Using twin outboards to easy my
worries instead of a single requires making the motor mount
wider than designed, is it still a Wyo? I used manufactured
windows in the cabin rather than home made wiley ports Mr.
Bolger designed, is it still a Wyo?
Safety is where designers truly draw the line on removing their
name from the design.
Because I have to build it in 3 pieces, as in no other option,
I think it's stronger and safer dropping the 9 inches than
having two splices in the side panels and hull bottom 9 inches
apart. Especially when the design calls for an 8 inch over lap
at the splice joints.
Jeff
> Sometimes people make vacuum pumps out of old compressors fromI have a vacuum pump that I use to sevice auto air conditioners. It
> refrigerators, tho there are sometimes lubrication issues.
is electric, about 1/4 hp. Is that enough volume. It will pull below
29 Hg. I guess I could suck it down with a shop vac, then switch to
the pump.
Charles
>How would you do it on my set up. Check out the bottom of my
> Sounds like a case for vacuum bagging. Try it you'll like
> it.
website page.
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
I don't know how t could be done.
Jeff
--- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
unless you get the change approved (or presumably the change is
purely marginal, and I don't think 9" is that). It is fine to
consider boat plans an extension of the Rorschach test, but don't
expect the designer to share your imaginative departure. And let's
be clear, the reason for this change was not to improve the boat's
performance, or reduce any of the uncertainty you refer to, David.
It was to avoid a joint etc...
> >> The rear cockpit section is 16' 9 inches long. For economy ofHardly, it may be a better boat, not my point. It isn't a Bolger
> >materials, I've shortened it to 16'. Works perfect for plywood and
> >laying out the bottom. No bulkheads or other dimensions changed
> >other than my Wyo will be 9 inches shorter than designed. I would
> >doubt we'll notice it on a 50 + footer.
> >>
> >> Jeff
> >
> >If you ever sell, it makes the boat non-typical, and the person
> >buying without your experience can only guess whether it is a good
> >thing.
>
> This is a stretch into the realm of fantasy at best.
unless you get the change approved (or presumably the change is
purely marginal, and I don't think 9" is that). It is fine to
consider boat plans an extension of the Rorschach test, but don't
expect the designer to share your imaginative departure. And let's
be clear, the reason for this change was not to improve the boat's
performance, or reduce any of the uncertainty you refer to, David.
It was to avoid a joint etc...
Yes, as long as it will stand up to running continuously until the
epoxy sets up and you can stand the noise. I'm not sure where to go
for centralized info on vacuum bagging. Common sense will get you a
long ways, especially if you do a few little experiments first. Be
sure to use a SLOW epoxy mix. Another trick which may work to get
smooth epoxy on relatively flat surfaces is to put reasonably heavy
polyethylene over it and then smooth squishy foam (as might be used in
upholstery) and then some distributed weight over it. This worked
extremely well for me on a model airplane and might be adapted for
larger work.
Sometimes people make vacuum pumps out of old compressors from
refrigerators, tho there are sometimes lubrication issues.
epoxy sets up and you can stand the noise. I'm not sure where to go
for centralized info on vacuum bagging. Common sense will get you a
long ways, especially if you do a few little experiments first. Be
sure to use a SLOW epoxy mix. Another trick which may work to get
smooth epoxy on relatively flat surfaces is to put reasonably heavy
polyethylene over it and then smooth squishy foam (as might be used in
upholstery) and then some distributed weight over it. This worked
extremely well for me on a model airplane and might be adapted for
larger work.
Sometimes people make vacuum pumps out of old compressors from
refrigerators, tho there are sometimes lubrication issues.
--- In bolger@y..., "chodges31711" <chodges@a...> wrote:
> > Sounds like a case for vacuum bagging. Try it you'll like it.
>
> Where is a good "how to vacuum bag" site? or book?
> A shop vac is enough if the goal is surface protection sheathing and
> a surface that needs little sanding - right?
>
> Charles
> Sounds like a case for vacuum bagging. Try it you'll like it.Where is a good "how to vacuum bag" site? or book?
A shop vac is enough if the goal is surface protection sheathing and
a surface that needs little sanding - right?
Charles
--- In bolger@y..., "jeff" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> I had some heavy Kevlar tape. 4 inches wide and something like 10oz.
> fiberglass. The chine was rounded with a 3/4" router bit. I triedto
> center the tape with 2 inches on either side of the chine. It wasa real
> pain to get it to lay down but after about an hour of allowing theepoxy to
> firm up, I got pressed it down and saturated the weave with moreepoxy. I
> cured over night and I added three layers of fiberglass (2" ) tapeto
> protect it even more. I'll sand and fair it in to the hull sidesand
> bottom. it will have a slight raised area on the chine but nothingyou can
> notice.Sounds like a case for vacuum bagging. Try it you'll like it.
>
> Jeff
>Very observant, that is why it's an issue. If the Wyo where to be built in
> I am surpised the cockpit ends up being an odd length. Very
> un-Bolger. Is this a result of your three part construction approach?
>
one piece, it wouldn't matter since the butt splices are all caluclated to
miss the bulkhead installations. The Wyo is exactly 52 feet if you measured
from the Stem to Stern following the chine line. In otherwords, the side
panels are 6 1/2 sheets of plywood butt spliced end to end to fit perfectly
with no trimming. The bottom is trimmed at the Stem when laid out where the
sheets are laid out lengthwise. You basically trim off the two 4" overlaps.
She really is designed for efficient use of materials.
With the built up stem piece, the true length by design I believe is 51'
71/2".
Unfortunately when building as I am, it makes no sense to have two sets of
splices in the hull bottom and side panels within a 9 inches of each other,
though I could splice it on to the stern but seems a lot of hassle for the
gain.
Jeff
Might save you a buck or two on docking fees, and a swim ladder (fold
down?) will restore any lost length and add a swimminly sweet
dimension all at one shot.
down?) will restore any lost length and add a swimminly sweet
dimension all at one shot.
>> The rear cockpit section is 16' 9 inches long. For economy ofThis is a stretch into the realm of fantasy at best. To date there is
>materials, I've shortened it to 16'. Works perfect for plywood and
>laying out the bottom. No bulkheads or other dimensions changed
>other than my Wyo will be 9 inches shorter than designed. I would
>doubt we'll notice it on a 50 + footer.
>>
>> Jeff
>
>If you ever sell, it makes the boat non-typical, and the person
>buying without your experience can only guess whether it is a good
>thing.
only one other Wyo build, and it deviates substantially from plans.
The plans are, as yet, unproven and for all we know the boat will
work better nine inches shorter. Even built to spec the boat is
"non-typical" to say the least, and I doubt this theoretical buyer
from the future (if he even knows who PCB is, or how long a Wyo is
supposed to be) is going to take out a tape measure and see if he's
getting all 51 feet of his boat.
I am surpised the cockpit ends up being an odd length. Very
un-Bolger. Is this a result of your three part construction approach?
YIBB,
David
C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
Mobile (646) 325-8325
Office (212) 247-0296
I had some heavy Kevlar tape. 4 inches wide and something like 10 oz.
fiberglass. The chine was rounded with a 3/4" router bit. I tried to
center the tape with 2 inches on either side of the chine. It was a real
pain to get it to lay down but after about an hour of allowing the epoxy to
firm up, I got pressed it down and saturated the weave with more epoxy. I
cured over night and I added three layers of fiberglass (2" ) tape to
protect it even more. I'll sand and fair it in to the hull sides and
bottom. it will have a slight raised area on the chine but nothing you can
notice.
Jeff
fiberglass. The chine was rounded with a 3/4" router bit. I tried to
center the tape with 2 inches on either side of the chine. It was a real
pain to get it to lay down but after about an hour of allowing the epoxy to
firm up, I got pressed it down and saturated the weave with more epoxy. I
cured over night and I added three layers of fiberglass (2" ) tape to
protect it even more. I'll sand and fair it in to the hull sides and
bottom. it will have a slight raised area on the chine but nothing you can
notice.
Jeff
> If you ever sell, it makes the boat non-typical, and the personThe only thing that it could do is move the CB forward a few inches.
> buying without your experience can only guess whether it is a good
> thing.
Probably less that what a 100 extra pound in engine(s) might do though.
The boat is dead flat at that point in the bottom profile and verticle on
the sides. No bulkheads change, no supports change, nor hatches, etc. The
only difference is one less butt joint in the bottom and side panels due to
my building in three pieces.
I guess I'll cross my fingers on this one. I can see no downside yet.
Jeff
Jeff,
How did you use kevlar on the chines? What type and weight of
cloth? Was it difficult to bend around the corner? What was the
corner radius? How far does it extend under the bottom and up the
sides? Is there a raised area on the chine or did you make it flush
with the rest of the bottom.
Thanks - and sorry if you've already answered this... I did a search
but didn't find anything.
Frank
Wilmington, DE - almost finished my own chine repairs...three layers
of 10 oz glass cut at 45 degrees.
How did you use kevlar on the chines? What type and weight of
cloth? Was it difficult to bend around the corner? What was the
corner radius? How far does it extend under the bottom and up the
sides? Is there a raised area on the chine or did you make it flush
with the rest of the bottom.
Thanks - and sorry if you've already answered this... I did a search
but didn't find anything.
Frank
Wilmington, DE - almost finished my own chine repairs...three layers
of 10 oz glass cut at 45 degrees.
--- In bolger@y..., "jeff" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> Got the bow section out of the garage and finished one chine of
with kevlar and fiberglass. Also working on the cockpit section and
got the side panels spliced together. Will probably start the hull
bottom tonight or tomorrow for the cockpit.
>
> The rear cockpit section is 16' 9 inches long. For economy of
materials, I've shortened it to 16'. Works perfect for plywood and
laying out the bottom. No bulkheads or other dimensions changed
other than my Wyo will be 9 inches shorter than designed. I would
doubt we'll notice it on a 50 + footer.
>
> Jeff
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> The rear cockpit section is 16' 9 inches long. For economy ofmaterials, I've shortened it to 16'. Works perfect for plywood and
laying out the bottom. No bulkheads or other dimensions changed
other than my Wyo will be 9 inches shorter than designed. I would
doubt we'll notice it on a 50 + footer.
>If you ever sell, it makes the boat non-typical, and the person
> Jeff
buying without your experience can only guess whether it is a good
thing.
I know what you are going through. I was always anoyed when a piece
on my tri plans would work out to 16'2", or something, requiring a
ludicrous little scarph. Hey! But that's computer design for you -
no comon sense. I couldn't just make changes on my tri because there
are so many relational issues, mast step, dawnhaul, beams, dolphin
stricker, shrouds. Not that they fit or anything. That's the
problem with 2D CAD in a (then) 3D world
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Got the bow section out of the garage and finished one chine of with kevlar and fiberglass. Also working on the cockpit section and got the side panels spliced together. Will probably start the hull bottom tonight or tomorrow for the cockpit.
The rear cockpit section is 16' 9 inches long. For economy of materials, I've shortened it to 16'. Works perfect for plywood and laying out the bottom. No bulkheads or other dimensions changed other than my Wyo will be 9 inches shorter than designed. I would doubt we'll notice it on a 50 + footer.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
The rear cockpit section is 16' 9 inches long. For economy of materials, I've shortened it to 16'. Works perfect for plywood and laying out the bottom. No bulkheads or other dimensions changed other than my Wyo will be 9 inches shorter than designed. I would doubt we'll notice it on a 50 + footer.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Added a couple shots of the Wyo's interior on my site this AM. Time to pull it out to the drive way and tip it up to finish the chine and bottom paint. Starting on the side panels for the rear 1/3 tonight since I'll have to wait for lot's of help this weekend to get it tipped up safely. At this point I estimate the weight at about 1300 lbs. so it'll take about 5 to 6 men to do the job. Luckily I have 5 sons of which 4 are over 6' tall and strong enough that all it'll cost me is a home cooked meal. The 12 yo will be able to move the saw horses around too.
Strange way to have a family gathering but it works.
Jeff
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Strange way to have a family gathering but it works.
Jeff
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Your welcome. I enjoy it, and please remember, I'm always open to ideas and
helpful hints. Always better to do it once the right way.
Jeff
helpful hints. Always better to do it once the right way.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "sanmi" <sanmi@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2002 3:27 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Wyo
> Jeff,
>
> Thanks for keeping such a detailed log. It is very useful for those
> of us who aspire to someday repeat your feat!
>
> Frank
> Wilmington, DE
Jeff,
Thanks for keeping such a detailed log. It is very useful for those
of us who aspire to someday repeat your feat!
Frank
Wilmington, DE
Thanks for keeping such a detailed log. It is very useful for those
of us who aspire to someday repeat your feat!
Frank
Wilmington, DE
--- In bolger@y..., "jeff" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> Finished painting and installed all the windows, hatch, and doors.
Will be pulling it out of the garage in a few days. I'm also
starting on the next section by joining the side panels.
>
> Jeff
> www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Finished painting and installed all the windows, hatch, and doors. Will be pulling it out of the garage in a few days. I'm also starting on the next section by joining the side panels.
Jeff
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Jeff
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- In bolger@y..., <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
This site makes you download Flash 5 to view if you don't already
have it before you view anything. They have much content to peruse.
John
> Good info, web site?http://www.wagnerspraytech.com/index2.htm
>
> Jeff
This site makes you download Flash 5 to view if you don't already
have it before you view anything. They have much content to peruse.
John
Lowes has them for around 50 to 70 bucks.
Wagner is a major company so they should be available pretty much
anywhere.
Wagner is a major company so they should be available pretty much
anywhere.
--- In bolger@y..., <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> Good info, web site?
>
> Jeff
>
> >
> > Jeff, I'm not a pro at painting either. I don't own a large
> > compressor so some of my air tools are just useless without
> > a bigger air supply. What I have found to be a real life
> > saver is a Wagner air less sprayer and from the cheapest
> > model to the top of the line all give an excellent finish.
> > I don't own stock in Wagner but I have used their sprayers
> > and they can make your paint job look professional. They
> > are easy to clean and they do a lot more than just spray a
> > large area. You can use them to cut in around trim with a
> > hand help masker. They have an excellent instruction book
> > that comes with the sprayer. I can say IMHO it is one of
> > the best finishing tools you could invest your money in. It
> > saves paint also.
Good info, web site?
Jeff
Jeff
>
> Jeff, I'm not a pro at painting either. I don't own a large
> compressor so some of my air tools are just useless without
> a bigger air supply. What I have found to be a real life
> saver is a Wagner air less sprayer and from the cheapest
> model to the top of the line all give an excellent finish.
> I don't own stock in Wagner but I have used their sprayers
> and they can make your paint job look professional. They
> are easy to clean and they do a lot more than just spray a
> large area. You can use them to cut in around trim with a
> hand help masker. They have an excellent instruction book
> that comes with the sprayer. I can say IMHO it is one of
> the best finishing tools you could invest your money in. It
> saves paint also.
Jeff, I'm not a pro at painting either. I don't own a large
compressor so some of my air tools are just useless without a bigger
air supply. What I have found to be a real life saver is a Wagner air
less sprayer and from the cheapest model to the top of the line all
give an excellent finish. I don't own stock in Wagner but I have used
their sprayers and they can make your paint job look professional.
They are easy to clean and they do a lot more than just spray a large
area. You can use them to cut in around trim with a hand help masker.
They have an excellent instruction book that comes with the sprayer.
I can say IMHO it is one of the best finishing tools you could invest
your money in. It saves paint also.
John
compressor so some of my air tools are just useless without a bigger
air supply. What I have found to be a real life saver is a Wagner air
less sprayer and from the cheapest model to the top of the line all
give an excellent finish. I don't own stock in Wagner but I have used
their sprayers and they can make your paint job look professional.
They are easy to clean and they do a lot more than just spray a large
area. You can use them to cut in around trim with a hand help masker.
They have an excellent instruction book that comes with the sprayer.
I can say IMHO it is one of the best finishing tools you could invest
your money in. It saves paint also.
John
--- In bolger@y..., "jeff" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> I'm not a pro at painting, in fact I'd rather sand than paint. I
used a
> roller for smooth surfaces. I even tried tipping the paint with a
foam
> brush which made it worse. Spray painting would probably help
since you
> could put a thinner coat on but I don't own a compressor big enough
to spray
> paint.
>
> The OP doesn't detract much from the finish, I was just surprised
that you
> can go through all the work to get as close to perfect a surface as
possible
> and then get the OP anyway. Live and learn as they say. Hey,
saves me time
> in the future.
>
> Jeff
I'm not a pro at painting, in fact I'd rather sand than paint. I used a
roller for smooth surfaces. I even tried tipping the paint with a foam
brush which made it worse. Spray painting would probably help since you
could put a thinner coat on but I don't own a compressor big enough to spray
paint.
The OP doesn't detract much from the finish, I was just surprised that you
can go through all the work to get as close to perfect a surface as possible
and then get the OP anyway. Live and learn as they say. Hey, saves me time
in the future.
Jeff
roller for smooth surfaces. I even tried tipping the paint with a foam
brush which made it worse. Spray painting would probably help since you
could put a thinner coat on but I don't own a compressor big enough to spray
paint.
The OP doesn't detract much from the finish, I was just surprised that you
can go through all the work to get as close to perfect a surface as possible
and then get the OP anyway. Live and learn as they say. Hey, saves me time
in the future.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "proaconstrictor" <proaconstrictor@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002 10:43 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Wyo
>
> I think the OP is mostly the result of the paint surface drying
> faster than the finish, not what you are finishing over, though I
> could see that having an effect. A cool hull and hot air, or too
> thick a layer of paint. Also things that modifying older paint
> systems with dryer or reducer used to fix.
I always thought it was me using a roller.
----- Original Message -----
From: "proaconstrictor" <proaconstrictor@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002 11:43 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Wyo
>
> > I used to believe the orange peel was from the epoxy but it's a
> product of paint on epoxy. I couldn't remember how well I had
> finished my Frolic but it had an orange peel too. I was after a 5
> foot finish not a Gold Plater and I have that but I could have had
> the same with 10 hours less power sanding. I'll know better next
> time.
>
> I think the OP is mostly the result of the paint surface drying
> faster than the finish, not what you are finishing over, though I
> could see that having an effect. A cool hull and hot air, or too
> thick a layer of paint. Also things that modifying older paint
> systems with dryer or reducer used to fix.
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
> I used to believe the orange peel was from the epoxy but it's aproduct of paint on epoxy. I couldn't remember how well I had
finished my Frolic but it had an orange peel too. I was after a 5
foot finish not a Gold Plater and I have that but I could have had
the same with 10 hours less power sanding. I'll know better next
time.
I think the OP is mostly the result of the paint surface drying
faster than the finish, not what you are finishing over, though I
could see that having an effect. A cool hull and hot air, or too
thick a layer of paint. Also things that modifying older paint
systems with dryer or reducer used to fix.
Painted and varnished this last week. I worked hard on getting a very smooth finish. I sanded and filled until I had 99% of the small pinhole voids that is typical of epoxy. After two coats of primer, I had an orange peel finish. I wet sanded smooth and put on the two top coats of Behr Premium Plus and the orange peel was back.
I used to believe the orange peel was from the epoxy but it's a product of paint on epoxy. I couldn't remember how well I had finished my Frolic but it had an orange peel too. I was after a 5 foot finish not a Gold Plater and I have that but I could have had the same with 10 hours less power sanding. I'll know better next time. With a bright light shinning at an angle, the hull looks good and I'm pleased. To bad the cheapy digital camera has a bad habit of skewing lines and shadows but I did post photos. Maybe I can borrow a good one tonight and put better shots on my website.
Jeff
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I used to believe the orange peel was from the epoxy but it's a product of paint on epoxy. I couldn't remember how well I had finished my Frolic but it had an orange peel too. I was after a 5 foot finish not a Gold Plater and I have that but I could have had the same with 10 hours less power sanding. I'll know better next time. With a bright light shinning at an angle, the hull looks good and I'm pleased. To bad the cheapy digital camera has a bad habit of skewing lines and shadows but I did post photos. Maybe I can borrow a good one tonight and put better shots on my website.
Jeff
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Just finished the last bit of cutting for the front 1/3 last night. It is
very amazing to see the small amount of scrap left over that's usable. Mr.
Bolger certainly maximizes the material usage. I put a photo on my site.
About 2 weeks behind the schedule. Family, friends, and heat, but mostly
heat. When 2 oz. of slow cure epoxy starts smoking with heat within 5
minutes, it's hard to do the fine coating work. It'll just have to wait.
Jeff
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
very amazing to see the small amount of scrap left over that's usable. Mr.
Bolger certainly maximizes the material usage. I put a photo on my site.
About 2 weeks behind the schedule. Family, friends, and heat, but mostly
heat. When 2 oz. of slow cure epoxy starts smoking with heat within 5
minutes, it's hard to do the fine coating work. It'll just have to wait.
Jeff
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
Got the cabin top on, most of the sanding done to do the final fairing, and a start on the cabin hatch. By the end of the week the front section will be structurally complete.
Jeff
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Jeff
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> How do you keep the curves running through it if you are buildingThe bottom profile is the basis for the curves. When I layed out
> jigless in sections?
the bottom, I layed it out to a total of 24 feet. Where the split
was going to be I cut the plywood but I lapped each layer (3) by 6
inches. At time of glue up, I layed wax paper between the 6" layers
and use screws to hold it in place. I then proceed to cut the
profile, then separated at the laps with wax paper. Now I have a
continuous bottom panel cut and partially made for the next section.
Same for the side panels, I made them one length longer and cut at
the splice. When doing the next section, I have the start of the
side panels and bottom.
Jeff
--- In bolger@y..., "pvanderwaart" <pvanderw@o...> wrote:
sleeping cabin, main full headroom cabin, and rear cockpit. All are
close to 17 feet in length. It just worked out that way, not
designed. Being a square boat, I.E. chines are at 90 degrees
splitting the boat into 3 pieces is easier than most. I just
doubled the bulkheads where the splits are and making one an
opposite, built them a bit heavier to be bolted together. I lined
up the bolt holes first before assembly. Hull bottom is overlapped
the standard 6 inches between layers.
I must say though that I do not have Mr. Bolgers opinion on my
method. I visited with several construction engineers and a
designer of pre-fab rafters. All had good pointers. Mostly to use
a laser level. I purchased one at Harbor Freight for $30.00.
Jeff
> > Structurally almost done with the front 1/3.but
>
> I've been meaning to ask: Is Wyo a multi-piece boat? Or, it's not
> you are building it in thirds? Or what?Luckily as designed, it has three sections. Front bow cockpit and
>
> Peter
sleeping cabin, main full headroom cabin, and rear cockpit. All are
close to 17 feet in length. It just worked out that way, not
designed. Being a square boat, I.E. chines are at 90 degrees
splitting the boat into 3 pieces is easier than most. I just
doubled the bulkheads where the splits are and making one an
opposite, built them a bit heavier to be bolted together. I lined
up the bolt holes first before assembly. Hull bottom is overlapped
the standard 6 inches between layers.
I must say though that I do not have Mr. Bolgers opinion on my
method. I visited with several construction engineers and a
designer of pre-fab rafters. All had good pointers. Mostly to use
a laser level. I purchased one at Harbor Freight for $30.00.
Jeff
--- In bolger@y..., "pvanderwaart" <pvanderw@o...> wrote:
How do you keep the curves running through it if you are building
jigless in sections?
> > Structurally almost done with the front 1/3.but
>
> I've been meaning to ask: Is Wyo a multi-piece boat? Or, it's not
> you are building it in thirds? Or what?I had the same question.
>
> Peter
How do you keep the curves running through it if you are building
jigless in sections?
> Structurally almost done with the front 1/3.I've been meaning to ask: Is Wyo a multi-piece boat? Or, it's not but
you are building it in thirds? Or what?
Peter
--- In bolger@y..., "Richard Spelling" <richard@c...> wrote:
My goal is to have a short vacation from boat building and start the
next section the first week in August.
Remember, no mast, sails, rigging, rudder, ballast, etc. Only a CB
in the center section.
Jeff
> hehe hehehe HAHA HAHAHAHA!Ah, yee of little faith!
> :-)
>
> "Hopefully in another month it'll be done."
My goal is to have a short vacation from boat building and start the
next section the first week in August.
Remember, no mast, sails, rigging, rudder, ballast, etc. Only a CB
in the center section.
Jeff
hehe hehehe HAHA HAHAHAHA!
:-)
"Hopefully in another month it'll be done."
:-)
"Hopefully in another month it'll be done."
----- Original Message -----
From: "jeff" <boatbuilding@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 12:48 PM
Subject: [bolger] Wyo
>
> Managed to get the top side panels cut and mounted along with ports cut
out and test fit. Structurally almost done with the front 1/3. Roof and
hatch is all thats left. Lot's of sanding and finish work though.
Hopefully in another month it'll be done.
>
> www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
>
> Jeff
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Managed to get the top side panels cut and mounted along with ports cut out and test fit. Structurally almost done with the front 1/3. Roof and hatch is all thats left. Lot's of sanding and finish work though. Hopefully in another month it'll be done.
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
96 on Sat. 97 on Sun. and the mountains are burning up this week. 4 big
fires, 50,000 + acres so far....way to hot and dry around here. Even here
in Fort Collins, 150 miles away, the sun is but a hazy globe with the smoke.
Hot enough that I couldn't keep epoxy it in a cup longer than about 3
minutes. I fiberglass coated the deck for the front cockpit and it cured
hard enough you could just barely dent it with a fingernail in 2 hours.
I did manage to get the bunks built out in the sleeping cabin. Drank lots
of water and a headband for the sweat but they look good! Plenty of storage
and they are solid.
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
Jeff
fires, 50,000 + acres so far....way to hot and dry around here. Even here
in Fort Collins, 150 miles away, the sun is but a hazy globe with the smoke.
Hot enough that I couldn't keep epoxy it in a cup longer than about 3
minutes. I fiberglass coated the deck for the front cockpit and it cured
hard enough you could just barely dent it with a fingernail in 2 hours.
I did manage to get the bunks built out in the sleeping cabin. Drank lots
of water and a headband for the sweat but they look good! Plenty of storage
and they are solid.
www.dreamwater.net/cosailor
Jeff
Bravo Jeff! There IS nothing quite as sweet as the smell of cut wood on
a project. May you never need to use the Wailing Chair for it's named
purpose! (note to the confused: a Wailing Chair is any chair
(preferably a squashed recliner) that sits in the shop area, where you
can sit with your head in your hands after gluing a bow panel on the
stern, or cutting a precious bit of wood exactly to 1" underlength,
or... well, you get the idea.)
David Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Blunck [mailto:boatbuilding@...]
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 10:37 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Wyo
Got start this weekend. May 4th, the wifes birthday so we wouldn't
forget
our start date.
We sorted through a pile of 80 sheets to find 8 that matched almost
perfectly so we can have some varnished wood above the rub rail. We
tried
for a even mahoganey tone. While we where at it, we pulled some sheets
that where almost white like Birch. Only 11 of them but I'll save them
for
building the interior cabinets. It wasn't fun handling 80 sheets
several
times each but after about 45 minutes we had found what we wanted. The
wife
didn't complain a bit, what a trooper!
Also built the first two bulkheads. Used PL Premium glue and SS screws
or
boat nails. Since it'll be built in three pieces, I was extra careful
to
get everything exactly square. Keeping the bulkheads perfectly level
now is
all I have to worry about when assembling to keep out any twist. Square
boats are great in that aspect.
Upon cutting into the Meranti I have to say that it's really nice stuff.
Have yet to find a void when cutting.
To answer my previous post on laminating, I stick with epoxy.
Later on last night, I stepped out into the garage and the pleasant
smell of
cedar filled the air. Should make for a nice "wooden" boat aroma in the
cabin. We are excited to begin our journey.
Jeff
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Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
a project. May you never need to use the Wailing Chair for it's named
purpose! (note to the confused: a Wailing Chair is any chair
(preferably a squashed recliner) that sits in the shop area, where you
can sit with your head in your hands after gluing a bow panel on the
stern, or cutting a precious bit of wood exactly to 1" underlength,
or... well, you get the idea.)
David Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Blunck [mailto:boatbuilding@...]
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 10:37 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Wyo
Got start this weekend. May 4th, the wifes birthday so we wouldn't
forget
our start date.
We sorted through a pile of 80 sheets to find 8 that matched almost
perfectly so we can have some varnished wood above the rub rail. We
tried
for a even mahoganey tone. While we where at it, we pulled some sheets
that where almost white like Birch. Only 11 of them but I'll save them
for
building the interior cabinets. It wasn't fun handling 80 sheets
several
times each but after about 45 minutes we had found what we wanted. The
wife
didn't complain a bit, what a trooper!
Also built the first two bulkheads. Used PL Premium glue and SS screws
or
boat nails. Since it'll be built in three pieces, I was extra careful
to
get everything exactly square. Keeping the bulkheads perfectly level
now is
all I have to worry about when assembling to keep out any twist. Square
boats are great in that aspect.
Upon cutting into the Meranti I have to say that it's really nice stuff.
Have yet to find a void when cutting.
To answer my previous post on laminating, I stick with epoxy.
Later on last night, I stepped out into the garage and the pleasant
smell of
cedar filled the air. Should make for a nice "wooden" boat aroma in the
cabin. We are excited to begin our journey.
Jeff
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=194081.2021092.3499911.1829184/D=egroupweb/S=1705
065791:HM/A=1036972/R=0/*http://www.ediets.com/start.cfm?code=3466>
Click Here!
<http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=194081.2021092.3499911.1829184/D=egrou
pmail/S=1705065791:HM/A=1036972/rand=186825837>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Got start this weekend. May 4th, the wifes birthday so we wouldn't forget
our start date.
We sorted through a pile of 80 sheets to find 8 that matched almost
perfectly so we can have some varnished wood above the rub rail. We tried
for a even mahoganey tone. While we where at it, we pulled some sheets
that where almost white like Birch. Only 11 of them but I'll save them for
building the interior cabinets. It wasn't fun handling 80 sheets several
times each but after about 45 minutes we had found what we wanted. The wife
didn't complain a bit, what a trooper!
Also built the first two bulkheads. Used PL Premium glue and SS screws or
boat nails. Since it'll be built in three pieces, I was extra careful to
get everything exactly square. Keeping the bulkheads perfectly level now is
all I have to worry about when assembling to keep out any twist. Square
boats are great in that aspect.
Upon cutting into the Meranti I have to say that it's really nice stuff.
Have yet to find a void when cutting.
To answer my previous post on laminating, I stick with epoxy.
Later on last night, I stepped out into the garage and the pleasant smell of
cedar filled the air. Should make for a nice "wooden" boat aroma in the
cabin. We are excited to begin our journey.
Jeff
our start date.
We sorted through a pile of 80 sheets to find 8 that matched almost
perfectly so we can have some varnished wood above the rub rail. We tried
for a even mahoganey tone. While we where at it, we pulled some sheets
that where almost white like Birch. Only 11 of them but I'll save them for
building the interior cabinets. It wasn't fun handling 80 sheets several
times each but after about 45 minutes we had found what we wanted. The wife
didn't complain a bit, what a trooper!
Also built the first two bulkheads. Used PL Premium glue and SS screws or
boat nails. Since it'll be built in three pieces, I was extra careful to
get everything exactly square. Keeping the bulkheads perfectly level now is
all I have to worry about when assembling to keep out any twist. Square
boats are great in that aspect.
Upon cutting into the Meranti I have to say that it's really nice stuff.
Have yet to find a void when cutting.
To answer my previous post on laminating, I stick with epoxy.
Later on last night, I stepped out into the garage and the pleasant smell of
cedar filled the air. Should make for a nice "wooden" boat aroma in the
cabin. We are excited to begin our journey.
Jeff
> Looking at your pictures yesterday, the one with the mate onYes the Wyo is going to be big. We think living aboard will be
> board shows just how big the Dakota is. Jeff, the Wyoming is
> going to be HUGE!
>
> HJ
very comfortable.
By the way, just finished putting the lights and boards on the
trailer. Instead of drilling and using bolts on the 1/4" angle
cross pieces I used self drilling and self tapping screws.
What a great concept. After about 10 seconds of drilling these
bolts went through and pulled up tight. Awesome! They cost
about the same as the bolts and no drill bits!
Anyway the trailer is now done and the Merenti is set to be
delivered this week. WYO construction starts May 1st!
Jeff
Peter,
I doubt if the Champlain is much more intricate. The Champlain has a box
keel, but the Dakota has three layers in the bottom plus four more in
the shoe. Once the hulls and cabin tops are built, you have the same
sequence of steps to finish, you are just working with more and larger
pieces. I would say the difference in building time is mainly the
difference in size. Dakota has more splices, more surface to glass,
fill, sand, and coat, more feet of fillet and tape, etc. Since I am
working alone, I had to devise a way to handle panels that were 5 sheets
long. With Champlain, you can probably do more with just muscle power.
Now that I can get inside and walk around, I can state that there is
lots of room in this boat. In fact, I have a temporary mini-workshop
right inside the boat. It saves a lot of trips in and out over the
transom.
Vince
I doubt if the Champlain is much more intricate. The Champlain has a box
keel, but the Dakota has three layers in the bottom plus four more in
the shoe. Once the hulls and cabin tops are built, you have the same
sequence of steps to finish, you are just working with more and larger
pieces. I would say the difference in building time is mainly the
difference in size. Dakota has more splices, more surface to glass,
fill, sand, and coat, more feet of fillet and tape, etc. Since I am
working alone, I had to devise a way to handle panels that were 5 sheets
long. With Champlain, you can probably do more with just muscle power.
Now that I can get inside and walk around, I can state that there is
lots of room in this boat. In fact, I have a temporary mini-workshop
right inside the boat. It saves a lot of trips in and out over the
transom.
Vince
>How would you compare the Champlain to the
>Dakota as far as building
>time and difficulty? On a quick look, the Dakota
>looks much larger
>but also simpler than the compact but intricate
>Peter
Looking at your pictures yesterday, the one with the mate on board shows
just how big the Dakota is. Jeff, the Wyoming is going to be HUGE!
HJ
just how big the Dakota is. Jeff, the Wyoming is going to be HUGE!
HJ
> Now that I can get inside and walk around, I can state that there is
> lots of room in this boat. In fact, I have a temporary mini-workshop
> right inside the boat. It saves a lot of trips in and out over the
> transom.
>