Re: [bolger] Glassing a plank bottom
Once you guys get an idea of how you will proceed, you
can come back for more info.
--- saranac12901 <director@...> wrote:
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<tt>
Probably not much more interest in this thread
- Many thanks to <BR>
Peter Vanderwaart and Thomas Dalzell for your
input. I did find the <BR>
report on Vaitses technique.
Thanks to all, Don Craig<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</tt>
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can come back for more info.
--- saranac12901 <director@...> wrote:
<HR>
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<tt>
Probably not much more interest in this thread
- Many thanks to <BR>
Peter Vanderwaart and Thomas Dalzell for your
input. I did find the <BR>
report on Vaitses technique.
Thanks to all, Don Craig<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</tt>
<br>
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Probably not much more interest in this thread - Many thanks to
Peter Vanderwaart and Thomas Dalzell for your input. I did find the
report on Vaitses technique. Thanks to all, Don Craig
Peter Vanderwaart and Thomas Dalzell for your input. I did find the
report on Vaitses technique. Thanks to all, Don Craig
I am inclined simmilarly to Peter, except I wouldn't
just apply the wood tot he bottom, but replace the
bottom (or the whole thing as noted). If the inside
plank swells up from rain water or whatever, it will
put huge loads on the boat as it bends like a
hydrometer.
--- pvanderwaart <pvanderw@...> wrote:
I would be tempted to sheath the bottom with a layer
of ply (ask <BR>
someone who knows what he is talking about how thick
it should be), <BR>
and then glass the ply. Rot is a big potential problem
in that sort <BR>
of situation, so heavy doses of Cuprinol or similar
would be part of <BR>
the mix.<BR>
<BR>
Peter<BR>
<BR>
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Bolger rules!!!<BR>
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dead horses<BR>
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topic, and punctuate<BR>
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts,
snip all you like<BR>
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349<BR>
- Unsubscribe:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com</tt>
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just apply the wood tot he bottom, but replace the
bottom (or the whole thing as noted). If the inside
plank swells up from rain water or whatever, it will
put huge loads on the boat as it bends like a
hydrometer.
--- pvanderwaart <pvanderw@...> wrote:
I would be tempted to sheath the bottom with a layer
of ply (ask <BR>
someone who knows what he is talking about how thick
it should be), <BR>
and then glass the ply. Rot is a big potential problem
in that sort <BR>
of situation, so heavy doses of Cuprinol or similar
would be part of <BR>
the mix.<BR>
<BR>
Peter<BR>
<BR>
</tt>
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Bolger rules!!!<BR>
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dead horses<BR>
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on
topic, and punctuate<BR>
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts,
snip all you like<BR>
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349<BR>
- Unsubscribe:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com</tt>
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> One opinion that you might try to research was that of AllanVaites.
> He published a book on the topic (Covering Wooden Boats withOpps. After I found the book citation, I managed to put the
> Fiberglass, 1981), and he is/was an imaginative and generally sound
> boat man.
second "L" in his first name, but didn't notice that I had misspelled
his last: Vaitses. In penence, I have found the following:
http://204.220.138.252/newspics/charts/898coldmolding.pdf
Peter
Does this have anything to do with the Lake Champlain Maritime Museum?
If so, I think I've seen it. If not, they might have some ideas for
you.
http://www.lcmm.org/
If so, I think I've seen it. If not, they might have some ideas for
you.
http://www.lcmm.org/
--- In bolger@y..., "saranac12901" <director@p...> wrote:
> Several years ago, myself and a group of historical reenactors built
> a replica of a colonial 'bateau' - picture a 32-foot Teal, lapstrake
> sides of pine boards, flat bottom (5/4 x 8" pine boards butted to
> each other), oak ribs. snip Before taking it to an event, we soak
> the boat inside and out to swell the wood. snip
> this is taking it's toll and
snip
> fiberglassing the entire bottom up to
> the first lapstrake. snip
> We are considering fiberglassing the entire bottom up toThe idea of covering an older boat with fiberglass to prolong its
> the first lapstrake.
life is as old as fiberglass itself. There are many failures, many
claimed success, and many opinions.
One opinion that you might try to research was that of Allan Vaites.
He published a book on the topic (Covering Wooden Boats with
Fiberglass, 1981), and he is/was an imaginative and generally sound
boat man. I remember reading an article, probably 20 years ago, in
which he made the case for mechanically fastening the glass coat to
the underlying wood rather than relying on the gluing power of the
resin. If it was really that long ago, then the resin would have been
polyester which has limited gluing power.
I would be tempted to sheath the bottom with a layer of ply (ask
someone who knows what he is talking about how thick it should be),
and then glass the ply. Rot is a big potential problem in that sort
of situation, so heavy doses of Cuprinol or similar would be part of
the mix.
Peter
Hull wise I would start again and do it in marine ply.
I don't know how fnacy the non-hull parts of your
boat are, or how difficult making/transfering them
would be. What you are suggesting violates most epoxy
rules, and I think you will end up with a mess, though
doubtless it has been done before.
Basic rules with epoxy are that everything needs to be
encapsulated, that wood needs to be kept to 3/4"
thickness, or built up from that thickness. It seems
that it might be difficult to isolate you bottom from
the lap siding, and the lower laps, from the upper
which are not coated. Wood movement may end up
tearing it apart.
You also obviously have pretty serious contamination
problems.
On the other hand if the cost of trying isnt a big
deal, it might work out fine.
On the other hand making a big ply dory with lots of
help, would be a pretty fast deal. The basic hull
structure could be assembled in one day. If you need
lap sides for historical accuracy, they can be
assembled on the flat, but the time quotiant goes up.
--- saranac12901 <director@...> wrote:
<HR>
<html><body>
<tt>
Several years ago, myself and a group of historical
reenactors built <BR>
a replica of a colonial 'bateau' - picture a 32-foot
Teal, lapstrake <BR>
sides of pine boards, flat bottom (5/4 x 8" pine
boards butted to <BR>
each other), oak ribs. We have been caulking it
with a black <BR>
flexible caulking that comes in a tube, called
'Sikaflex' - looks <BR>
like tar - and then coating it inside and out with a
mixture of <BR>
terpentine and linseed oil. Before taking it to
an event, we soak <BR>
the boat inside and out to swell the wood. We
don't leave it in the <BR>
water all season. As you can imagine, this
is taking it's toll and <BR>
if we continue this for a few more years, we fear the
boat will be <BR>
ruined. We are considering
fiberglassing the entire bottom up to <BR>
the first lapstrake. I'd appreciate any opinions
and advice you can <BR>
give us as far as 1) surface preparation, since the
pine has been <BR>
exposed to linseed oil, 2)materials (I've successfully
used West <BR>
System epoxy and fiberglass on other projects),
3)these things are <BR>
notoriously leaky, there will be water inside on the
floor boards. <BR>
Any suggestions on alternate materials or techniques
will be <BR>
welcome. Thanks, Don Craig,
Plattsburgh, NY<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</tt>
<br>
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<tt>
Bolger rules!!!<BR>
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging
dead horses<BR>
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on
topic, and punctuate<BR>
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts,
snip all you like<BR>
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349<BR>
- Unsubscribe:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com</tt>
<br>
<br>
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______________________________________________________________________
Find, Connect Date!http://personals.yahoo.ca
I don't know how fnacy the non-hull parts of your
boat are, or how difficult making/transfering them
would be. What you are suggesting violates most epoxy
rules, and I think you will end up with a mess, though
doubtless it has been done before.
Basic rules with epoxy are that everything needs to be
encapsulated, that wood needs to be kept to 3/4"
thickness, or built up from that thickness. It seems
that it might be difficult to isolate you bottom from
the lap siding, and the lower laps, from the upper
which are not coated. Wood movement may end up
tearing it apart.
You also obviously have pretty serious contamination
problems.
On the other hand if the cost of trying isnt a big
deal, it might work out fine.
On the other hand making a big ply dory with lots of
help, would be a pretty fast deal. The basic hull
structure could be assembled in one day. If you need
lap sides for historical accuracy, they can be
assembled on the flat, but the time quotiant goes up.
--- saranac12901 <director@...> wrote:
<HR>
<html><body>
<tt>
Several years ago, myself and a group of historical
reenactors built <BR>
a replica of a colonial 'bateau' - picture a 32-foot
Teal, lapstrake <BR>
sides of pine boards, flat bottom (5/4 x 8" pine
boards butted to <BR>
each other), oak ribs. We have been caulking it
with a black <BR>
flexible caulking that comes in a tube, called
'Sikaflex' - looks <BR>
like tar - and then coating it inside and out with a
mixture of <BR>
terpentine and linseed oil. Before taking it to
an event, we soak <BR>
the boat inside and out to swell the wood. We
don't leave it in the <BR>
water all season. As you can imagine, this
is taking it's toll and <BR>
if we continue this for a few more years, we fear the
boat will be <BR>
ruined. We are considering
fiberglassing the entire bottom up to <BR>
the first lapstrake. I'd appreciate any opinions
and advice you can <BR>
give us as far as 1) surface preparation, since the
pine has been <BR>
exposed to linseed oil, 2)materials (I've successfully
used West <BR>
System epoxy and fiberglass on other projects),
3)these things are <BR>
notoriously leaky, there will be water inside on the
floor boards. <BR>
Any suggestions on alternate materials or techniques
will be <BR>
welcome. Thanks, Don Craig,
Plattsburgh, NY<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</tt>
<br>
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<tt>
Bolger rules!!!<BR>
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging
dead horses<BR>
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on
topic, and punctuate<BR>
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts,
snip all you like<BR>
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349<BR>
- Unsubscribe:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com</tt>
<br>
<br>
<tt>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the <a
href="http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/">Yahoo! Terms
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</br>
</body></html>
______________________________________________________________________
Find, Connect Date!http://personals.yahoo.ca
Several years ago, myself and a group of historical reenactors built
a replica of a colonial 'bateau' - picture a 32-foot Teal, lapstrake
sides of pine boards, flat bottom (5/4 x 8" pine boards butted to
each other), oak ribs. We have been caulking it with a black
flexible caulking that comes in a tube, called 'Sikaflex' - looks
like tar - and then coating it inside and out with a mixture of
terpentine and linseed oil. Before taking it to an event, we soak
the boat inside and out to swell the wood. We don't leave it in the
water all season. As you can imagine, this is taking it's toll and
if we continue this for a few more years, we fear the boat will be
ruined. We are considering fiberglassing the entire bottom up to
the first lapstrake. I'd appreciate any opinions and advice you can
give us as far as 1) surface preparation, since the pine has been
exposed to linseed oil, 2)materials (I've successfully used West
System epoxy and fiberglass on other projects), 3)these things are
notoriously leaky, there will be water inside on the floor boards.
Any suggestions on alternate materials or techniques will be
welcome. Thanks, Don Craig, Plattsburgh, NY
a replica of a colonial 'bateau' - picture a 32-foot Teal, lapstrake
sides of pine boards, flat bottom (5/4 x 8" pine boards butted to
each other), oak ribs. We have been caulking it with a black
flexible caulking that comes in a tube, called 'Sikaflex' - looks
like tar - and then coating it inside and out with a mixture of
terpentine and linseed oil. Before taking it to an event, we soak
the boat inside and out to swell the wood. We don't leave it in the
water all season. As you can imagine, this is taking it's toll and
if we continue this for a few more years, we fear the boat will be
ruined. We are considering fiberglassing the entire bottom up to
the first lapstrake. I'd appreciate any opinions and advice you can
give us as far as 1) surface preparation, since the pine has been
exposed to linseed oil, 2)materials (I've successfully used West
System epoxy and fiberglass on other projects), 3)these things are
notoriously leaky, there will be water inside on the floor boards.
Any suggestions on alternate materials or techniques will be
welcome. Thanks, Don Craig, Plattsburgh, NY