Re: [bolger] Taped seams vs. traditional framing

I think the convention is 6oz of glass on both sides for 1/4" ply, and one
more layer of 6oz for each additional 1/8" of ply.

You can adjust that, say if one side of 1/2" ply will never be in tension,
then you can use 1 layer of 6oz on that side, and three on the tension side.

Generaly, I use three layers of 2" 6oz tape on both sides for major
structural joints, hull chines, etc. For hull to bulkhead, cabin roof, etc,
I use two layers. For non structural or lightly loaded joints I use only one
layer.

I only use stringers where I can't access something, for instance, putting
the top on the seats. Then, I use a stringer to run screws into, and put one
layer of 2" 6oz tape on the outside to seal the edges of the ply watertite.

----- Original Message -----
From: "prthober" <prthober@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 20, 2002 3:34 AM
Subject: [bolger] Taped seams vs. traditional framing

> What is the equivilency between joining panels with taped seams
> versus joining them with a third piece of wood, glue and screws. For
> instance if the plan calls for a chine log and the hull panels are
> plywood what would the correct taped seam be?
>
> Paul
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>

That is a difficult question to answer. It is
relatively easy in the case of asking how to replace a
wood butt with an epoxy one where the only issue is
the strength of the sheating (plywood). In some
boats, the chine log etc... may be part of another
structural system, so merely using enough glass to
hold together the ply may not be a proxy for the
stringer.

Here are some points. 20 oz glass over a 1/4" butt
(one side only) is much stronger than the ply itself.

6 oz glass over both sides will usualy replace the
strength of the top layer of most 1/4-3/8 plywoods.
In angled pieces, the depth of the cove should be 75%
of the thickness of the plywood, with one layer of
tape on both sides. This is a rugged joint, and you
can get ply strength with less, but it is kind of a
typical arangement. Consider that the longevity of a
joint may depend on significantly greatter glass
schedules to prottect it against docking or grounding.

--- prthober <prthober@...> wrote:

<HR>
<html><body>

<tt>
What is the equivilency between joining panels with
taped seams 
versus joining them with a third piece of wood, glue
and screws. For 
instance if the plan calls for a chine log and the
hull panels are 
plywood what would the correct taped seam be? 
 
Paul 
 
</tt>

 



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<tt>
Bolger rules!!! 
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging
dead horses 
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on
topic, and punctuate 
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts,
snip all you like 
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349 
- Unsubscribe:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com</tt>
 

 
<tt>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the <a
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of Service</a>.</tt>


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What is the equivilency between joining panels with taped seams
versus joining them with a third piece of wood, glue and screws. For
instance if the plan calls for a chine log and the hull panels are
plywood what would the correct taped seam be?

Paul