Re: I Need a longboard howto

How long? Long enough to bridge whatever you are fairing.
How wide? The width of your sanding medium. I use broken sanding
belts.
Where do I attach the handles? As close to the ends of the board as
you can get them remembering that you have to attach the sandpaper
also.
How flexible? Flexible enough to follow the curve that you are fairing
without having to put a lot of pressure. I would say if the curve is
fairly flat, Teal for instance 1/4" would work pretty well. a 2x4 will
not follow much of a curve. You arelikely to get flat spots.
Attach to the handle with staples (wear gloves).
Where to find a howto? Look up an auto bodywork howto? You will see
readymade tools and how they operate. Auto bodywork has an awful lot
of fairing about it.
You may have to do a little grinding on your > to take the point down
to a reasonable start. Depending of course on how much peak there is
on the >.
Bob Chamberland

-- In bolger@y..., Hal Lynch <hal@c...> wrote:

>
> On Wednesday, April 24, 2002, at 10:35 AM, Richard Spelling wrote:
>
> > longboard
> >>
>
> >> The butt joints on my Teal have a slight angle to them.
> >> They look like this: > instead of this: ). What is the best
> >> way to fair the joints so they match the curve of the rest of
> >> the hull?
>
> Sorry to be such a dunce. I have heard of a longboard
> but I have no clue how to make or buy one. Questions:
>
> How long?
> How wide?
> Where do I attach the handle/s?
> How flexible?
> Where do I get long sandpaper?
> How do I attach the sandpaper to the longboard?
> Where can I find a howto?
>
> hal

I have a couple longboards a boatyard buddy gave me, made of various scraps
of ply, 1/4" or less thick; the length is twice the length of a standard
sheet of sandpaper, and half the width; I take a sheet of paper and rip it
in half lengthwise, then use feathering disk adhesive (from an auto body
supply shop) to stick the two halves of the sheet of sandpaper on the board
end-to-end; the seam in the middle doesn't hurt anything. Handles are
rounded chunks of approx. 1"x1" screwed/glued on across the ends. This makes
for a bendy, easy to handle, cheap to 'feed' longboard, which uses sandpaper
available anywhere, no special dimensions (or price).

Paul L.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Hal Lynch [mailto:hal@...]
> Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 1:24 PM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] I Need a longboard howto
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, April 24, 2002, at 10:35 AM, Richard Spelling wrote:
>
> > longboard
> >>
>
> >> The butt joints on my Teal have a slight angle to them.
> >> They look like this: > instead of this: ). What is the best
> >> way to fair the joints so they match the curve of the rest of
> >> the hull?
>
> Sorry to be such a dunce. I have heard of a longboard
> but I have no clue how to make or buy one. Questions:
>
> How long?
> How wide?
> Where do I attach the handle/s?
> How flexible?
> Where do I get long sandpaper?
> How do I attach the sandpaper to the longboard?
> Where can I find a howto?
>
> hal
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>

Repeat after me "flat point... flat point..."
--- thomas dalzell <proaconstrictor@...> wrote:

<HR>
<html><body>

<tt>
I agree with sanding it back, if it is still in
the 
wood. I am a little puzzled, usualy you end up
with a 
slat point. Nothing to worry about as long as
you are 
convinced the bond is good, and the block is
strong 
enough. 
 
--- Hal Lynch <hal@...> wrote: 
 
<HR> 
<html><body> 
 
 
<tt> 
The butt joints on my Teal have a slight angle to
them. 
 
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<tt>
Bolger rules!!! 
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging
dead horses 
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on
topic, and punctuate 
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts,
snip all you like 
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349 
- Unsubscribe:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com</tt>
 

 
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Only a few days left to file! http://taxes.yahoo.ca

I went to an auto supply house, and bought strips of coarse sandpaper 3"
wide by about 21" inches long -- I forget the exact measurements -- then I
cut a piece of 1/2" ply (I found the 1/4" too flexible) to match, added a
simple handle at either end (a piece of 3/4 x 3/4 screwed from below) and
went to work. The sandpaper had an adhesive on it, probably costs more that
way, but I didn't need much and it saved fooling with some other attachment
method. You can also buy longboards at auto or paint stores, but the ones I
saw were too expensive.

Be careful not to remove too much wood, it may weaken the joint. (You'll
sand through any fibreglass layer, so that will have to be done again after
sanding.) Better to accept a slightly unfair joint than to sand too much
away.

I did my butt joints either flat, or if done on the boat, I clamped/screwed
a pair of 1x4s over the joint to sandwich it. Both ways worked, no flat
spots or other distortion to be seen.

Jamie Orr

-----Original Message-----
From: Hal Lynch [mailto:hal@...]
Sent: April 24, 2002 10:24 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] I Need a longboard howto

On Wednesday, April 24, 2002, at 10:35 AM, Richard Spelling wrote:

> longboard
>>

>> The butt joints on my Teal have a slight angle to them.
>> They look like this: > instead of this: ). What is the best
>> way to fair the joints so they match the curve of the rest of
>> the hull?

Sorry to be such a dunce. I have heard of a longboard
but I have no clue how to make or buy one. Questions:

How long?
How wide?
Where do I attach the handle/s?
How flexible?
Where do I get long sandpaper?
How do I attach the sandpaper to the longboard?
Where can I find a howto?

hal

Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

There aren't any international standards. There is an
autobody version that is quite cheap, and for which
sandpaper is pre-cut. But with PSA (sticky) sandpaper
you can make them as long as you want. Get good
agressive paper, thins isn't a smoothing tool. Both
rigid and flexible LBs have a place, and curves on the
boat are going to determine which to some extent.
12-24" is a good starting point. Reallu for the size
of this job I would just grab a section of 2x4" and
put some PSA on it. You should be done before you
could build a fancier version. Try planing away any
obviously surplus wood (if it isn't already glassed).

 
How long? 
How wide? 
Where do I attach the handle/s? 
How flexible? 
Where do I get long sandpaper? 
How do I attach the sandpaper to the longboard? 
Where can I find a howto? 
 
hal 
 
</tt>

 
<tt>
Bolger rules!!! 
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging
dead horses 
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on
topic, and punctuate 
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts,
snip all you like 
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349 
- Unsubscribe:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com</tt>
 

 
<tt>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the <a
href="http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/">Yahoo! Terms
of Service</a>.</tt>


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______________________________________________________________________
Only a few days left to file!http://taxes.yahoo.ca

On Wednesday, April 24, 2002, at 10:35 AM, Richard Spelling wrote:

> longboard
>>

>> The butt joints on my Teal have a slight angle to them.
>> They look like this: > instead of this: ). What is the best
>> way to fair the joints so they match the curve of the rest of
>> the hull?

Sorry to be such a dunce. I have heard of a longboard
but I have no clue how to make or buy one. Questions:

How long?
How wide?
Where do I attach the handle/s?
How flexible?
Where do I get long sandpaper?
How do I attach the sandpaper to the longboard?
Where can I find a howto?

hal

I agree with sanding it back, if it is still in the
wood. I am a little puzzled, usualy you end up with a
slat point. Nothing to worry about as long as you are
convinced the bond is good, and the block is strong
enough.

--- Hal Lynch <hal@...> wrote:

<HR>
<html><body>

<tt>
The butt joints on my Teal have a slight angle to them. 

______________________________________________________________________
Only a few days left to file!http://taxes.yahoo.ca

longboard

----- Original Message -----
From: "Hal Lynch" <hal@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 11:21 AM
Subject: [bolger] How do I fair a plywood butt joint

> The butt joints on my Teal have a slight angle to them.
> They look like this: > instead of this: ). What is the best
> way to fair the joints so they match the curve of the rest of
> the hull?
>
> hal
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>

The butt joints on my Teal have a slight angle to them.
They look like this: > instead of this: ). What is the best
way to fair the joints so they match the curve of the rest of
the hull?

hal

Don't know about covering the paint, but if it's so cheap, why not just
repaint when needed? As for the deck, use a good spar varnish over the
epoxy.Having built 4 strip-built boats - 3 kayaks and 1 canoe - I've
decided Epifanes is the best stuff out there, worth the $$ to protect my
hard work. All my boats were first sheathed in glass and epoxy (west, but
now I'm another Raka convert) and then varnished. I skimped on varnish on my
first boat, and paid dearly for it - after about a year you couldn't see the
wood anymore, the epoxy looked like a milkshake had been mixed into it
before it hardened. The second boat got several coats of Epifanes, and was
kept out in the weather for 9 years; only now am I stripping and
revarnishing it. The finish got pretty ratty looking, but it continued to
protect the glass/epoxy, which shows no yellowing or clouding. The Epifanes
matt/semi-gloss varnish gives a very warm look and cuts down on sun glare;
the 'high gloss' really gleams, but both are rock hard when fully cured,
very resistant to scratches, etc. I used their new 'fast build' varnish on
the canoe last year and found it great to work with, and they claim UV
protection equal to the original which has proven itself to me. Prep is
easy, just give the epoxy a light sanding, wipe down with alcohol, then go
at it with the varnish; thinning all coats slightly helps keep the finish
smoother as drips and other goofs are not as thick. You want adequate
coverage to protect your epoxy, at least 2 thick coats, or more if thinned.
If your polyurethane does not specifically state on the can that it contains
UV inhibitors, I would not count on it keeping your deck epoxy from clouding
or yellowing in the sun.
and no, I don't work for Epifanes or any reseller.....

Paul Lefebvre

If that pretty green paint really were bottom paint, its makers probably
would have loaded it full of neat stuff in hopes of killing off all the
nasty, sticky, creepy crawlies that seem to eagerly fasten onto and coat
the part of the boat that the sun don't shine on.
If its on the bottom of your boat, and it isn't bottom paint, perhaps
that's what should be added. Bottom paint for wooden boats comes in most
of the primary colors and a few of the designer ones too.
I've even heard of clear bottom paint - to go on pretty fiberglass hulls
that shouldn't be sullied with practicality. (Although it may have gone
away when tin was dropped as a bottom paint component because it killed
fish and shellfish too.)
Jim

anctus wrote:

> So, here I went and painted the bottom of my boat with a pretty,
> green, oil based polyurethane paint (red devil to be exact). Later,
> when I bought the gallon of clear polyurethane, my thought was that
> it would be nice to protect all that pretty green bottom paint. Much
> to my dismay, the can of clear polyurethane insists that it not be
> applied over a painted surface. Does anyone know why I should pay
> any attention to an inanimate can? What would happen? Does anyone
> have any other suggestions, preferably based on experience, for an
> exterior clear paint protectant that won't require me to spend
> $100.00 a gallon to protect $20.00 a gallon paint? While I'm at it,
> when I turn her back over, I'm going to need to likewise protect a
> bright finished deck coated with cheap (I'm very happy with Raka,
> btw.) epoxy from UV and everything else I've seen at Lowes Depot is
> for bare wood or is for interior use only.
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor

>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>bright finished deck coated with cheap (I'm very happy with Raka,
>btw.) epoxy from UV and everything else I've seen at Lowes Depot is

I believe Raka has a UV resistant epoxy.

YIBB,

David

C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296

So, here I went and painted the bottom of my boat with a pretty,
green, oil based polyurethane paint (red devil to be exact). Later,
when I bought the gallon of clear polyurethane, my thought was that
it would be nice to protect all that pretty green bottom paint. Much
to my dismay, the can of clear polyurethane insists that it not be
applied over a painted surface. Does anyone know why I should pay
any attention to an inanimate can? What would happen? Does anyone
have any other suggestions, preferably based on experience, for an
exterior clear paint protectant that won't require me to spend
$100.00 a gallon to protect $20.00 a gallon paint? While I'm at it,
when I turn her back over, I'm going to need to likewise protect a
bright finished deck coated with cheap (I'm very happy with Raka,
btw.) epoxy from UV and everything else I've seen at Lowes Depot is
for bare wood or is for interior use only.