Re: Gypsy progess - week 3
It's been a year or so since I painted my Nymph. From my (admittedly
limited) tests at the time, it seemed that California Paints
Troubleshooter acrylic latex primer stuck best on epoxy. Seemed like
nothing short of a chisel would knock it loose, unlike the other
paints I tried (tho I didn't try other latex pain). Dried hard, too.
It is still sticking well. It dries fairly quickly, and they say you
can recoat in 4 hours. I ended up using oil based stuff over it, but
that's probably not necessary or optimal. I want a latex silver paint,
on the theory that the aluminum pigment will block UV best, but it
seems that isn't available. The silver paint I ran into locally was
some kind of latex/alkyd combination, I think, but certainly not 100%
acrylic latex. I stuck with the oil, which was very slow to dry.
No good ideas on aluminum, tho I know it can be done. My dad used some
kind of Woolsey stuff many years ago that held up well, but I'm sure
they've had to change the formulation by now, and I don't remember
about primer or surface prep. I'm sure it wasn't fancy, though.
limited) tests at the time, it seemed that California Paints
Troubleshooter acrylic latex primer stuck best on epoxy. Seemed like
nothing short of a chisel would knock it loose, unlike the other
paints I tried (tho I didn't try other latex pain). Dried hard, too.
It is still sticking well. It dries fairly quickly, and they say you
can recoat in 4 hours. I ended up using oil based stuff over it, but
that's probably not necessary or optimal. I want a latex silver paint,
on the theory that the aluminum pigment will block UV best, but it
seems that isn't available. The silver paint I ran into locally was
some kind of latex/alkyd combination, I think, but certainly not 100%
acrylic latex. I stuck with the oil, which was very slow to dry.
No good ideas on aluminum, tho I know it can be done. My dad used some
kind of Woolsey stuff many years ago that held up well, but I'm sure
they've had to change the formulation by now, and I don't remember
about primer or surface prep. I'm sure it wasn't fancy, though.
--- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
snip
> >Painting the hull - what do I prime it with? Someone
> >recommended "industrial marine" paint could you be more specific?
>
snip (oops, snipped a comment here about wantint to try "water based")
>
>snip
>Questions:I have been nothing but pleased using Benjamin Moore Urethane
>
>Painting the hull - what do I prime it with? Someone
>recommended "industrial marine" paint could you be more specific?
reenforced porch paint over epoxy and glass. I sand then paint, no
primer. It takes a while to get good and hard, but once it does it
sticks for good. I haven't had any checking, peeling, etc. I did the
topsides in "redwood", the deck "bamboo beige" and it the sheer and
interior with white. Looks sharp! Available locally in a variety of
good boat colors for $30/gallon. I've seen similar at the Despot in 5
gallon buckets for $75.
I'd like to try something water-based for the sake of clean up, but
I'm so pleased with how well this is working I can't work up the
nerve to try anything else.
Congrats on your Gypsy, and on get ready to build a Chebaco as well!
I had the plans for the Light Scooner before the paint on my teal was
dry. ;-)
YIBB,
David
C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
In a message dated 4/27/02 3:20:03 PM Central Daylight Time,
prthober@...writes:
boats by Aime Fraser that has a concise summary of marine paint types (except
latex), including one ("waterborne emulsions") that I'd not read about
before.
Fraser writes that "industrial" paints are not formulated for ease of
application, come in colors not usual for boats and have no cost advantage.
She doesn't recommend them. ("unless you have an inside track to some bridge
or railroad" paint)
She does strongly recomment using 2-part epoxy primer if the boat is epoxy
and glass sheathed. The reason given is that some epoxy formulations cure too
alkaline for some (unspecified) paints to stick. Could she be referring to
the "amine blush" frequently mentioned here? If so, perhaps the use of epoxy
primer is not as obligatory as she implies, given a good scrubbing after
cure. I don't know, but there are certainly some experts on this subject in
this group - I would listen to them.
She doesn't think latex house paints are suitable for her work, but she's
professional painter of fancy boats. (-long, rambling, not very pertinent a
necdote regarding use of latex paint about four decades ago deleted-) I think
I would be inclined to try latex paint if I had any encouragement at all.
However, I'm a reluctant and rather bad painter who belongs to that subset of
humanity that would rather do sanding and surface prep any day rather than
actually have to paint. I used (oil-based) Old Town paint and (oil-based)
Ephiphanes varnish when I refinished my 1914 B.N. Morris canoe last year on
the theory that a traditional craft called for traditional materials. Both
products flowed, leveled, dried and sanded about as well as one could wish. I
used disposable foam roller covers, tray liners, paint cups and brushes,
which eliminated clean-up hassles. I really can't say that the job was more
involved than it would have been had I used latex paints, so perhaps their
advantages tend to be overstated.
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
(in need of instruction on painting aluminum! mea culpa, mea maxima culpa!)
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
prthober@...writes:
> Painting the hull - what do I prime it with? SomeoneThe current (#`166) issue of Wooden Boat has an article on painting new wood
> recommended "industrial marine" paint
boats by Aime Fraser that has a concise summary of marine paint types (except
latex), including one ("waterborne emulsions") that I'd not read about
before.
Fraser writes that "industrial" paints are not formulated for ease of
application, come in colors not usual for boats and have no cost advantage.
She doesn't recommend them. ("unless you have an inside track to some bridge
or railroad" paint)
She does strongly recomment using 2-part epoxy primer if the boat is epoxy
and glass sheathed. The reason given is that some epoxy formulations cure too
alkaline for some (unspecified) paints to stick. Could she be referring to
the "amine blush" frequently mentioned here? If so, perhaps the use of epoxy
primer is not as obligatory as she implies, given a good scrubbing after
cure. I don't know, but there are certainly some experts on this subject in
this group - I would listen to them.
She doesn't think latex house paints are suitable for her work, but she's
professional painter of fancy boats. (-long, rambling, not very pertinent a
necdote regarding use of latex paint about four decades ago deleted-) I think
I would be inclined to try latex paint if I had any encouragement at all.
However, I'm a reluctant and rather bad painter who belongs to that subset of
humanity that would rather do sanding and surface prep any day rather than
actually have to paint. I used (oil-based) Old Town paint and (oil-based)
Ephiphanes varnish when I refinished my 1914 B.N. Morris canoe last year on
the theory that a traditional craft called for traditional materials. Both
products flowed, leveled, dried and sanded about as well as one could wish. I
used disposable foam roller covers, tray liners, paint cups and brushes,
which eliminated clean-up hassles. I really can't say that the job was more
involved than it would have been had I used latex paints, so perhaps their
advantages tend to be overstated.
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
(in need of instruction on painting aluminum! mea culpa, mea maxima culpa!)
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I've done boats with a bunch of different paints, from Interlux Brightsides
primer and topcoats on my Windsprint, to a Krylon oil-based enamel on my
dory, to all-acrylic latex porch paint on my AF4.
Brightsides was great stuff, but expensive. The regular oil-based enamel is
performing well, but clean-up was a hassle. My favorite so far has been the
latex. It did need priming to make it stick well to epoxy, though. I used
the best (most expensive?) Zinnser exterior primer. No problems to report so
far.
I just talked to a builder who used a Krylon acrylic latex enamel on his
boat directly over epoxy. It dried very hard and looks great. I'm going to
look at that it very seriously when it's time to repaint.
JB
primer and topcoats on my Windsprint, to a Krylon oil-based enamel on my
dory, to all-acrylic latex porch paint on my AF4.
Brightsides was great stuff, but expensive. The regular oil-based enamel is
performing well, but clean-up was a hassle. My favorite so far has been the
latex. It did need priming to make it stick well to epoxy, though. I used
the best (most expensive?) Zinnser exterior primer. No problems to report so
far.
I just talked to a builder who used a Krylon acrylic latex enamel on his
boat directly over epoxy. It dried very hard and looks great. I'm going to
look at that it very seriously when it's time to repaint.
JB
----- Original Message -----
From: "prthober" <prthober@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2002 4:17 PM
Subject: [bolger] Gypsy progess - week 3
Questions:
Painting the hull - what do I prime it with? Someone
recommended "industrial marine" paint - could you be more specific?
The boat will be stored on land and the bottom will not be painted
with antifouling paint, so is "striking" the waterline and painting
the bottom two-tone of any importance other than appearance?
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Glassed the hull. Shaped the rudder, daggerboard and mast. Installed
the gunwales. Installed frame #5 just forward of the mast for the
forward watertight compartment. Installed the maststep and started
the partner. Installed knees to support the side decking. Milled
lumber for the cockpit trim. "Leathered" the oars with nylon rope a
la Harold H. Payson. Returned plans for Wittholts cat to the
Woodenboat Store. Filled out order for Chebacco plans and sails, but
did not yet send. Obsessed over pintles and gudgeons, GPS, foul
weather gear, Chebacco cabin height, Gypsy completion deadline (self-
imposed), etc., etc., etc ..
Notes:
Having a great time building this boat. It is turning out quite
nicely.
Now that it is looking like a boat, more people passing by are
showing interest finally the social aspect of boat-building is
starting to manifest.
Questions:
Painting the hull - what do I prime it with? Someone
recommended "industrial marine" paint could you be more specific?
The boat will be stored on land and the bottom will not be painted
with antifouling paint, so is "striking" the waterline and painting
the bottom two-tone of any importance other than appearance?
Thanks all,
Paul
the gunwales. Installed frame #5 just forward of the mast for the
forward watertight compartment. Installed the maststep and started
the partner. Installed knees to support the side decking. Milled
lumber for the cockpit trim. "Leathered" the oars with nylon rope a
la Harold H. Payson. Returned plans for Wittholts cat to the
Woodenboat Store. Filled out order for Chebacco plans and sails, but
did not yet send. Obsessed over pintles and gudgeons, GPS, foul
weather gear, Chebacco cabin height, Gypsy completion deadline (self-
imposed), etc., etc., etc ..
Notes:
Having a great time building this boat. It is turning out quite
nicely.
Now that it is looking like a boat, more people passing by are
showing interest finally the social aspect of boat-building is
starting to manifest.
Questions:
Painting the hull - what do I prime it with? Someone
recommended "industrial marine" paint could you be more specific?
The boat will be stored on land and the bottom will not be painted
with antifouling paint, so is "striking" the waterline and painting
the bottom two-tone of any importance other than appearance?
Thanks all,
Paul