Re: Micro Booms
Peter,
Thanks for the information. I wondered if you had any problems
with it. It should be strong enough that way since the load is in
shear as you said. The thought of making a hole up there did not
make a lot of sense to me. The wood is thin enough as it is.
I am getting close to done on her, but need to invent a 36 hour
day. I picked up the trailer today. I obviously scrapped the idea
of welding one. It just didn't make sense to build a boat this great
and then not be able to go where I want with it. Stepping the mast
is a breeze. :-)
David Jost
--- In bolger@y..., "ellengaestboatbuildingcom" <ellengaest@b...>
wrote:
Thanks for the information. I wondered if you had any problems
with it. It should be strong enough that way since the load is in
shear as you said. The thought of making a hole up there did not
make a lot of sense to me. The wood is thin enough as it is.
I am getting close to done on her, but need to invent a 36 hour
day. I picked up the trailer today. I obviously scrapped the idea
of welding one. It just didn't make sense to build a boat this great
and then not be able to go where I want with it. Stepping the mast
is a breeze. :-)
David Jost
--- In bolger@y..., "ellengaestboatbuildingcom" <ellengaest@b...>
wrote:
> Hi David,with
> Used a s/s eye strap,screwed into the truck and a small(3/8")
> swivel block for halyard.Plenty strong since loads are in shear.
> You're almost done!!!
> Peter L.
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "dnjost" <djost@m...> wrote:
> >
> > Did you fasten the main halyard pulley at the top of the mast
> a
> > rope through the mast as per Bolger, or did you use a different
> > method?
> >
> > David Jost
> >
> > "also working very, very, hard."
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > --- In bolger@y..., "dnjost" <djost@m...> wrote:
> > > > I made booms with pegs. I don't know why. >
> > > >
Hi David,
Used a s/s eye strap,screwed into the truck and a small(3/8")
swivel block for halyard.Plenty strong since loads are in shear.
You're almost done!!!
Peter L.
Used a s/s eye strap,screwed into the truck and a small(3/8")
swivel block for halyard.Plenty strong since loads are in shear.
You're almost done!!!
Peter L.
--- In bolger@y..., "dnjost" <djost@m...> wrote:
>
> Did you fasten the main halyard pulley at the top of the mast with
a
> rope through the mast as per Bolger, or did you use a different
> method?
>
> David Jost
>
> "also working very, very, hard."
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > --- In bolger@y..., "dnjost" <djost@m...> wrote:
> > > I made booms with pegs. I don't know why. >
> > >
Thanks Peter,
When I said I made the boom with pegs and did not know why, I
should have stated: "It seemed so simple, I could not find a reason
not to build them that way. I had been tieing the snotter and sheets
on like making fast to a cleat, but will immediately go home and
splice loops into my sheets and snotters.
Did you fasten the main halyard pulley at the top of the mast with a
rope through the mast as per Bolger, or did you use a different
method?
David Jost
"also working very, very, hard."
When I said I made the boom with pegs and did not know why, I
should have stated: "It seemed so simple, I could not find a reason
not to build them that way. I had been tieing the snotter and sheets
on like making fast to a cleat, but will immediately go home and
splice loops into my sheets and snotters.
Did you fasten the main halyard pulley at the top of the mast with a
rope through the mast as per Bolger, or did you use a different
method?
David Jost
"also working very, very, hard."
> --- In bolger@y..., "dnjost" <djost@m...> wrote:
> > I made booms with pegs. I don't know why. >
> >
Those little pegs just serve as stops for the line which captures the
boom foreward for the snotter and aft for the sheet.The lines are
secured simply by tieing a bowline(or splicing a loop) into their ends
(diameter of loops just a wee bit greater then the boom diameter)and
hooking these loops over the boom ends.The direction of applied
tension will always draw the loops ups against the pegs.Maximum
strength(no holes through the boom to"split" wood under stress),dirt
simple to set up and take down and difficult to imagine anything
cheaper.Really!
Reefing is quick and simple too as one has only to slip a loop from
the main leech reef grommet over the end of the boom.Tensioning the
snotter will draw the line up tight against the pegs.
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,busy busy busy at work................
boom foreward for the snotter and aft for the sheet.The lines are
secured simply by tieing a bowline(or splicing a loop) into their ends
(diameter of loops just a wee bit greater then the boom diameter)and
hooking these loops over the boom ends.The direction of applied
tension will always draw the loops ups against the pegs.Maximum
strength(no holes through the boom to"split" wood under stress),dirt
simple to set up and take down and difficult to imagine anything
cheaper.Really!
Reefing is quick and simple too as one has only to slip a loop from
the main leech reef grommet over the end of the boom.Tensioning the
snotter will draw the line up tight against the pegs.
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,busy busy busy at work................
--- In bolger@y..., "dnjost" <djost@m...> wrote:
> I made booms with pegs. I don't know why. >
>
Then there are some of us who carry around our own baggy wrinkles.
Nels:-)
Nels:-)
--- In bolger@y..., "dnjost" <djost@m...> wrote:
> I am thinking that a bow pudding would look cool on "Firefly".
There
> are no stays for baggy wrinkles, so I need to do something else.
>
>
> David Jost.
Glen,
I am kind of fond of the stopper knot. It has less of a tendency
to undo itself at unopportune times.
I recommend the Ashley Book of Knots to all those Bolger boaters
who want to do things with rope.
I am thinking that a bow pudding would look cool on "Firefly". There
are no stays for baggy wrinkles, so I need to do something else.
David Jost.
I am kind of fond of the stopper knot. It has less of a tendency
to undo itself at unopportune times.
I recommend the Ashley Book of Knots to all those Bolger boaters
who want to do things with rope.
I am thinking that a bow pudding would look cool on "Firefly". There
are no stays for baggy wrinkles, so I need to do something else.
David Jost.
Run the snotter from the mast, thru a hole in the end of sprit, back to a
block or fairleader on the mast, down to the deck, and back to the cockpit.
The turn at the deck will pull the mast down snug, and you could adjust
sprit tension from the cockpit.
block or fairleader on the mast, down to the deck, and back to the cockpit.
The turn at the deck will pull the mast down snug, and you could adjust
sprit tension from the cockpit.
----- Original Message -----
From: "dnjost" <djost@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2002 3:22 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Micro Booms
> I made booms with pegs. I don't know why. I will probably find out
> when I have to reef it the first time.
> The hole in the boom with a figure 8 knot should work up front, but
> at the clew, it will be much easier to undo the sheet from the pegs
> than untieing a knot. Fast is good.
>
> David Jost
> "going home to fair and fill holes."
>
>
>
>
> I
> > always figured that if it didn't work, I'd simply install the pegs
> > later....
> >
> > Glen Gibson
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
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> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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>
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>
>
>
I made booms with pegs. I don't know why. I will probably find out
when I have to reef it the first time.
The hole in the boom with a figure 8 knot should work up front, but
at the clew, it will be much easier to undo the sheet from the pegs
than untieing a knot. Fast is good.
David Jost
"going home to fair and fill holes."
I
when I have to reef it the first time.
The hole in the boom with a figure 8 knot should work up front, but
at the clew, it will be much easier to undo the sheet from the pegs
than untieing a knot. Fast is good.
David Jost
"going home to fair and fill holes."
I
> always figured that if it didn't work, I'd simply install the pegs
> later....
>
> Glen Gibson
>Does anyone have any feelings on how best to rig the booms for aOn my Micro, Jack of Hearts (check the pictures in Bolger2) I simply
>Micro? Bolgers drawings show lashing to pegs on the ends of the
>booms. I tend to think that using some fancy hardware might make
>setup a little slicker. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
drilled holes where Bolger called for the pegs, but didn't install
the pegs. I simply pass the line through the hole, tie a figure 8
stopper knot in the end and I'm done. Seems to work great so far. I
always figured that if it didn't work, I'd simply install the pegs
later....
Glen Gibson