Re: Introduction
Graeme,
I am not necessarily looking for a Bolger sailboat but I am looking
for a sailboat due to many factors... increase in fuel costs, smell
of diesel fumes from engines (yuck) and I miss the serenity of
sailing. I do not know the name and number but am trying to gather
information. I can't seem to find anything online. I have been
looking through books recently though. Thanks for your reply.
Shelley
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "graeme19121984" <graeme19121984@...>
wrote:
I am not necessarily looking for a Bolger sailboat but I am looking
for a sailboat due to many factors... increase in fuel costs, smell
of diesel fumes from engines (yuck) and I miss the serenity of
sailing. I do not know the name and number but am trying to gather
information. I can't seem to find anything online. I have been
looking through books recently though. Thanks for your reply.
Shelley
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "graeme19121984" <graeme19121984@...>
wrote:
>Phil
> Hi Shelley,
>
> are you seeking a Bolger designed sailboat to replace your power
> boat? Is that change down to fuel cost increases?
>
> Anyway, thanks for sharing your pictures of your "42' DownEast"
> Bolger boat. Sure looks nice, it's little wonder your proud of her.years
>
> Do you know the name and/or number that PCB gave this design?
>
> Graeme
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Shelley Moniz" <contact@> wrote:
> >
> > Hello All!
> >
> > I am the proud owner of a 1960 42' Downeast style powerboat
> originally
> > designed by Phil Bolger. Some changes have been made over the
> > but she is a wonderful boat that has given us many memorablemoments
> > on the water. We are looking for a sailboat and have our Bolgerfor
> > sale currently.
>
Hi Shelley,
are you seeking a Bolger designed sailboat to replace your power
boat? Is that change down to fuel cost increases?
Anyway, thanks for sharing your pictures of your "42' DownEast" Phil
Bolger boat. Sure looks nice, it's little wonder your proud of her.
Do you know the name and/or number that PCB gave this design?
Graeme
are you seeking a Bolger designed sailboat to replace your power
boat? Is that change down to fuel cost increases?
Anyway, thanks for sharing your pictures of your "42' DownEast" Phil
Bolger boat. Sure looks nice, it's little wonder your proud of her.
Do you know the name and/or number that PCB gave this design?
Graeme
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Shelley Moniz" <contact@...> wrote:
>
> Hello All!
>
> I am the proud owner of a 1960 42' Downeast style powerboat
originally
> designed by Phil Bolger. Some changes have been made over the years
> but she is a wonderful boat that has given us many memorable moments
> on the water. We are looking for a sailboat and have our Bolger for
> sale currently.
Hello All!
I am the proud owner of a 1960 42' Downeast style powerboat originally
designed by Phil Bolger. Some changes have been made over the years
but she is a wonderful boat that has given us many memorable moments
on the water. We are looking for a sailboat and have our Bolger for
sale currently. Many things have been done to her over the past few
years. I would be interested in talking with other powerboat owners to
see what challenges and successes they have had in their re-
fits/upgrades to thier own boats. We are always working on the boat
and figuring out new ways to inmprove the look of the boat without
changing the integrity of the design. I look forward to hearing from
others on this list. Shelley Moniz
I am the proud owner of a 1960 42' Downeast style powerboat originally
designed by Phil Bolger. Some changes have been made over the years
but she is a wonderful boat that has given us many memorable moments
on the water. We are looking for a sailboat and have our Bolger for
sale currently. Many things have been done to her over the past few
years. I would be interested in talking with other powerboat owners to
see what challenges and successes they have had in their re-
fits/upgrades to thier own boats. We are always working on the boat
and figuring out new ways to inmprove the look of the boat without
changing the integrity of the design. I look forward to hearing from
others on this list. Shelley Moniz
Scott,
Thanks for the info. Please do send a couple of
photos. Today I am working on the interior seams and
will likely work on any extra framing tomorrow.
Wr, Tim
--- William <sdavis@...> wrote:
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Thanks for the info. Please do send a couple of
photos. Today I am working on the interior seams and
will likely work on any extra framing tomorrow.
Wr, Tim
--- William <sdavis@...> wrote:
> Tim,__________________________________
> I highly recommend the Gypsy. I have completed two
> now. The second I
> made a number of modifications to from the plans,
> that I think work
> well. I too dont paticularly like the idea of a
> sealed forward
> compartment for the same reasons listed I bought a
> bunch of dock
> bumpers and fixed them under the seats for
> flotation, but in 2 years
> of sailing I have yet to turn her. I put a hatch on
> the foredeck of
> mine and it is a really convienent place to store
> the sail, lines, a
> small anchor and even a life jacket or two. I would
> like to say put
> a little deck camber in if you decide to make the
> fore and aft decks,
> it looks so much better. Another modification I
> made is to put the
> mast partner flanges on the underside. this looks
> much better is
> stronger and reduces snagging things. One other
> modification I made
> is to cut down the last frame and made bench seats
> all the way around.
>
> I would be happy to send photos if you like.
>
> Scott
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jack &Lois"
> <jalo@i...> wrote:
> > Hello Tim. All the best with Gypsy. She's a joy to
> sail and behold.
> Fore and
> > aft decks are a good idea, but I'd think twice
> about sealing the
> forward
> > compartment with a solid bulkhead. Bolger's oar
> stowage slots are a
> blessing
> > when under sail. I keep a partially inflated inner
> tube in the
> forward
> > compartment for bow buoyancy in case of a dump,
> which to date (four
> sailing
> > seasons) has not occurred. Sculpted styrofoam, to
> allow for oar
> stowage,
> > would serve the same purpose, but you'd need to
> build in a way to
> regularly
> > patrol for off season mouse, squirrel, and wasp
> occupancy. Plus I'd
> worry
> > about water trapped behind and under the foam.
> Installing a water
> tight
> > hatch cover in the aft bulkhead allows for a great
> place to stow
> wallet,
> > cameras, sandwiches, etc. As to waterproofing
> exposed plywood with
> paint, it
> > ain't gonna happen. If you're lucky, multiple
> coats of epoxy before
> painting
> > will delay the inevitable checks which will appear
> over all non-
> glassed
> > weather exposed surfaces. If you're using good
> marine ply this will
> be kept
> > to a minimum. If you're using construction grade,
> millions of
> little cracks
> > simply go with the territory. Fortunately it's
> mostly cosmetic.
> Happy
> > sailing.
> >
> > jeb, finally forced back into the boat shop by
> deteriorating ski
> conditions
> > on the seasonally fickle shores of Fundy
>
>
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Tim,
I highly recommend the Gypsy. I have completed two now. The second I
made a number of modifications to from the plans, that I think work
well. I too dont paticularly like the idea of a sealed forward
compartment for the same reasons listed I bought a bunch of dock
bumpers and fixed them under the seats for flotation, but in 2 years
of sailing I have yet to turn her. I put a hatch on the foredeck of
mine and it is a really convienent place to store the sail, lines, a
small anchor and even a life jacket or two. I would like to say put
a little deck camber in if you decide to make the fore and aft decks,
it looks so much better. Another modification I made is to put the
mast partner flanges on the underside. this looks much better is
stronger and reduces snagging things. One other modification I made
is to cut down the last frame and made bench seats all the way around.
I would be happy to send photos if you like.
Scott
I highly recommend the Gypsy. I have completed two now. The second I
made a number of modifications to from the plans, that I think work
well. I too dont paticularly like the idea of a sealed forward
compartment for the same reasons listed I bought a bunch of dock
bumpers and fixed them under the seats for flotation, but in 2 years
of sailing I have yet to turn her. I put a hatch on the foredeck of
mine and it is a really convienent place to store the sail, lines, a
small anchor and even a life jacket or two. I would like to say put
a little deck camber in if you decide to make the fore and aft decks,
it looks so much better. Another modification I made is to put the
mast partner flanges on the underside. this looks much better is
stronger and reduces snagging things. One other modification I made
is to cut down the last frame and made bench seats all the way around.
I would be happy to send photos if you like.
Scott
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jack &Lois" <jalo@i...> wrote:
> Hello Tim. All the best with Gypsy. She's a joy to sail and behold.
Fore and
> aft decks are a good idea, but I'd think twice about sealing the
forward
> compartment with a solid bulkhead. Bolger's oar stowage slots are a
blessing
> when under sail. I keep a partially inflated inner tube in the
forward
> compartment for bow buoyancy in case of a dump, which to date (four
sailing
> seasons) has not occurred. Sculpted styrofoam, to allow for oar
stowage,
> would serve the same purpose, but you'd need to build in a way to
regularly
> patrol for off season mouse, squirrel, and wasp occupancy. Plus I'd
worry
> about water trapped behind and under the foam. Installing a water
tight
> hatch cover in the aft bulkhead allows for a great place to stow
wallet,
> cameras, sandwiches, etc. As to waterproofing exposed plywood with
paint, it
> ain't gonna happen. If you're lucky, multiple coats of epoxy before
painting
> will delay the inevitable checks which will appear over all non-
glassed
> weather exposed surfaces. If you're using good marine ply this will
be kept
> to a minimum. If you're using construction grade, millions of
little cracks
> simply go with the territory. Fortunately it's mostly cosmetic.
Happy
> sailing.
>
> jeb, finally forced back into the boat shop by deteriorating ski
conditions
> on the seasonally fickle shores of Fundy
--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, Tim Rohrer <tgrohrer@y...> wrote:
Try this address:
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/lst?.dir=/Paul+Thober%
27s+boats&.src=gr&.order=&.view=t&.done=http%
3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/lst%3f%26.dir=/%26.src=gr%
26.view=t
Paul
> Thanks, Paul. I'll have to look more later as I couldIn the "Photos" folder here in Bolger.
> not find the photos. Are they in Bolger, 2 or 3?
>
> Tim
>
Try this address:
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/lst?.dir=/Paul+Thober%
27s+boats&.src=gr&.order=&.view=t&.done=http%
3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/lst%3f%26.dir=/%26.src=gr%
26.view=t
Paul
Thanks, Paul. I'll have to look more later as I could
not find the photos. Are they in Bolger, 2 or 3?
Tim
--- paulthober <paulthober@...> wrote:
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not find the photos. Are they in Bolger, 2 or 3?
Tim
--- paulthober <paulthober@...> wrote:
> Welcome, Tim.__________________________________
>
> Gypsy was also my first boat build. You can see a
> few pictures of her
> in the "Photos" section in the "Paul Thober" file.
> In the first photo
> you can just see the hooks that hold the port oar -
> they are white
> and are just below the port edge of the cockpit -
> these hooks were
> added to the frames at those locations.
>
> The volume forward of the mast and aft of the rear
> of the cockpit are
> water-tight with a cheap polycarbonate hatches for
> access. This
> provides lots of boyancy - swamped she is only
> half-full. I have self-
> rescued in two-foot chop with ease.
>
> I built with ACX plywood and glassed and painted all
> the outside
> surfaces.
>
> Gypsy is a very good rowboat or sailboat - I hope
> you enjoy yours.
>
> Paul
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Tim Rohrer
> <tgrohrer@y...> wrote:
> > Dear Ladies and Gentlemen,
> >
> > I have been lurking for a couple of weeks now and
> > think I should introduce myself. My name is Tim
> > Rohrer and I am building Gypsy in my garage.
> > Following taping of the exterior seams, I will be
> > flipping her over to start on the inside. While I
> > have been waiting for the arrival of tape and
> cloth
> > from RAKA, I have been preparing some of the
> interior
> > pieces and the daggerboard.
> >
> > While my skills remain pretty nascent, I am having
> a
> > blast. I do have a couple of questions (which
> will
> > undoubtedly highlight my newbie status!):
> >
> > 1) The Gypsy I am building will be pretty close to
> the
> > plans except I think I will enclose the bow and
> stern
> > areas as I believe that will be safer and I want
> to
> > use the boat for teaching my young sons how to
> sail.
> > I have seen a couple people on the web who have
> done
> > this and they seem happy with the modifications.
> Have
> > any of you completed similar alterations and what
> are
> > your thoughts now? What are some other ways to
> make
> > the boat safer for young boys learning how to
> sail?
> >
> > 2) I think I will paint the hull dark green and
> the
> > bilge, etc. white. I would like to have the
> > bulkheads, seats, etc., stand out (is this usually
> > referred to as "bright work"?). I have heard some
> > builders just cover the wood with epoxy and then
> store
> > the boat covered/upside down. Other thoughts for
> > finishing?
> >
> > 3) I am enjoying this project so much I am already
> > thinking ahead to the next one (after I move this
> > summer). I would like to step up in complexity
> and am
> > considering something my family of four could use
> for
> > short-duration cruising. Is there website devoted
> to
> > Bolger desigs? Anyone have any ideas. I also
> have a
> > book that shows Benford designs that I am poking
> > through but would like to compile options at this
> > stage.
> >
> > Thanks everyone. I have enjoyed reading your
> posts
> > and look forward to hearing back from some.
> >
> > Warm regards,
> >
> > Tim Rohrer
> > tgrohrer@y...
> >
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Search - Find what you're looking for
> faster
> >http://search.yahoo.com
>
>
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Welcome, Tim.
Gypsy was also my first boat build. You can see a few pictures of her
in the "Photos" section in the "Paul Thober" file. In the first photo
you can just see the hooks that hold the port oar - they are white
and are just below the port edge of the cockpit - these hooks were
added to the frames at those locations.
The volume forward of the mast and aft of the rear of the cockpit are
water-tight with a cheap polycarbonate hatches for access. This
provides lots of boyancy - swamped she is only half-full. I have self-
rescued in two-foot chop with ease.
I built with ACX plywood and glassed and painted all the outside
surfaces.
Gypsy is a very good rowboat or sailboat - I hope you enjoy yours.
Paul
Gypsy was also my first boat build. You can see a few pictures of her
in the "Photos" section in the "Paul Thober" file. In the first photo
you can just see the hooks that hold the port oar - they are white
and are just below the port edge of the cockpit - these hooks were
added to the frames at those locations.
The volume forward of the mast and aft of the rear of the cockpit are
water-tight with a cheap polycarbonate hatches for access. This
provides lots of boyancy - swamped she is only half-full. I have self-
rescued in two-foot chop with ease.
I built with ACX plywood and glassed and painted all the outside
surfaces.
Gypsy is a very good rowboat or sailboat - I hope you enjoy yours.
Paul
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Tim Rohrer <tgrohrer@y...> wrote:
> Dear Ladies and Gentlemen,
>
> I have been lurking for a couple of weeks now and
> think I should introduce myself. My name is Tim
> Rohrer and I am building Gypsy in my garage.
> Following taping of the exterior seams, I will be
> flipping her over to start on the inside. While I
> have been waiting for the arrival of tape and cloth
> from RAKA, I have been preparing some of the interior
> pieces and the daggerboard.
>
> While my skills remain pretty nascent, I am having a
> blast. I do have a couple of questions (which will
> undoubtedly highlight my newbie status!):
>
> 1) The Gypsy I am building will be pretty close to the
> plans except I think I will enclose the bow and stern
> areas as I believe that will be safer and I want to
> use the boat for teaching my young sons how to sail.
> I have seen a couple people on the web who have done
> this and they seem happy with the modifications. Have
> any of you completed similar alterations and what are
> your thoughts now? What are some other ways to make
> the boat safer for young boys learning how to sail?
>
> 2) I think I will paint the hull dark green and the
> bilge, etc. white. I would like to have the
> bulkheads, seats, etc., stand out (is this usually
> referred to as "bright work"?). I have heard some
> builders just cover the wood with epoxy and then store
> the boat covered/upside down. Other thoughts for
> finishing?
>
> 3) I am enjoying this project so much I am already
> thinking ahead to the next one (after I move this
> summer). I would like to step up in complexity and am
> considering something my family of four could use for
> short-duration cruising. Is there website devoted to
> Bolger desigs? Anyone have any ideas. I also have a
> book that shows Benford designs that I am poking
> through but would like to compile options at this
> stage.
>
> Thanks everyone. I have enjoyed reading your posts
> and look forward to hearing back from some.
>
> Warm regards,
>
> Tim Rohrer
> tgrohrer@y...
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Search - Find what you're looking for faster
>http://search.yahoo.com
Tim Rohrer wrote:
old. A mudlark is a pram, about 7ft, and is self-bailing.
... not that there is anything wrong with crewing on
a larger boat, but it is a good way to learn.
I reckon it is cheap preventative maintenance. You can
precoat the ply with epoxy, which has the advantage of
letting you flow it on while the wood is horizontal,
avoiding runs and sags. Then you sand it back where
you are going to glue.
Bruce Fountain
Senior Software Engineer
Union Switch & Signal
Perth, Western Australia
> I may save that forAround here we start kids on mudlarks at 6 or 7 years
> when they are a bit older. Right now the boys are
> nine and seven. If either of them seem to really take
> to it, I'll look into building them something smaller.
old. A mudlark is a pram, about 7ft, and is self-bailing.
... not that there is anything wrong with crewing on
a larger boat, but it is a good way to learn.
> Will a coat of good primerI coat everything with epoxy. Many would disagree, but
> suffice for making the wood waterproof or should I
> plan on coating all parts (rudder, daggerboard, etc.)
> with epoxy or some other sealant first?
I reckon it is cheap preventative maintenance. You can
precoat the ply with epoxy, which has the advantage of
letting you flow it on while the wood is horizontal,
avoiding runs and sags. Then you sand it back where
you are going to glue.
Bruce Fountain
Senior Software Engineer
Union Switch & Signal
Perth, Western Australia
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Tim Rohrer <tgrohrer@y...> wrote:
Somewhere I do. . . . prints in a messy drawer with a few hundred
others, no doubt, and scans probably on my old computer. I'll fish
around today and see what I can find.
Also, just thought to mention that the one thing I'd add to Gypsy is
a skeg. Try to row it without one and you spin around too easily.
All best,
Garth
> Thanks, Garth. Do you have pictures of her?Tim --
>
> Tim
Somewhere I do. . . . prints in a messy drawer with a few hundred
others, no doubt, and scans probably on my old computer. I'll fish
around today and see what I can find.
Also, just thought to mention that the one thing I'd add to Gypsy is
a skeg. Try to row it without one and you spin around too easily.
All best,
Garth
Thanks, Brent. I'll make sure I let you all know
which way I go. I have even considered an elaborate
scheme where I create "tunnels" for the oars to be
stowed. However, ultimately, that sounds complex and
like a lot of extra work : )
Tim
--- XROMAD <xromad@...> wrote:
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which way I go. I have even considered an elaborate
scheme where I create "tunnels" for the oars to be
stowed. However, ultimately, that sounds complex and
like a lot of extra work : )
Tim
--- XROMAD <xromad@...> wrote:
> When I added an aft thwart (behind the last bulkhead__________________________________
> and in front of
> my aft decking) I measured it so that the oars will
> sit on the thwarts
> between the bulkheads. The oar blades sit next to
> the dagger-board
> trunk the shafts of the oars then lay on top of the
> thwarts down the
> centerline of the cockpit and are strapped in tight.
>
> I found that this system did work but was a royal
> pain in the A*(*&
> because the cockpit is small enough as it is without
> having those
> stinking oars running through it.... I now stow a
> small folding
> paddle in the aft compartment. I still use the oars
> when I realy want
> to row (it realy does make a GREAT rowboat). But the
> paddle is my
> emergency propulsion when out sailing.
>
> Someday, I might try again with the oars sitting on
> the bottom panel,
> underneath the thwarts, should be interesting to
> figure out how to
> angle them in and then secure them. If they are all
> the way down on
> the floor, they might not be in the way so much.
>
> Brent
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Tim Rohrer
> <tgrohrer@y...> wrote:
> > I was thinking of two approaches for the oar
> stowage
> > problem if I completely sealed the bow. One is to
> > devise a system of stowage where the oars are laid
> > along the gunwhales and on top of the bow deck.
> Not
> > sure I like that approach. Another approach is to
> > create covers for the openings used by the oars
> when
> > stored. This would allow me to have the oars on
> board
> > for mild days (unlikely to dump the boat) and take
> the
> > oars off for *wilder* days. I had not considered
> the
> > intertube idea which I like as well.
> >
> > Thanks for the reply.
> >
> > Tim
>
>
>
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When I added an aft thwart (behind the last bulkhead and in front of
my aft decking) I measured it so that the oars will sit on the thwarts
between the bulkheads. The oar blades sit next to the dagger-board
trunk the shafts of the oars then lay on top of the thwarts down the
centerline of the cockpit and are strapped in tight.
I found that this system did work but was a royal pain in the A*(*&
because the cockpit is small enough as it is without having those
stinking oars running through it.... I now stow a small folding
paddle in the aft compartment. I still use the oars when I realy want
to row (it realy does make a GREAT rowboat). But the paddle is my
emergency propulsion when out sailing.
Someday, I might try again with the oars sitting on the bottom panel,
underneath the thwarts, should be interesting to figure out how to
angle them in and then secure them. If they are all the way down on
the floor, they might not be in the way so much.
Brent
my aft decking) I measured it so that the oars will sit on the thwarts
between the bulkheads. The oar blades sit next to the dagger-board
trunk the shafts of the oars then lay on top of the thwarts down the
centerline of the cockpit and are strapped in tight.
I found that this system did work but was a royal pain in the A*(*&
because the cockpit is small enough as it is without having those
stinking oars running through it.... I now stow a small folding
paddle in the aft compartment. I still use the oars when I realy want
to row (it realy does make a GREAT rowboat). But the paddle is my
emergency propulsion when out sailing.
Someday, I might try again with the oars sitting on the bottom panel,
underneath the thwarts, should be interesting to figure out how to
angle them in and then secure them. If they are all the way down on
the floor, they might not be in the way so much.
Brent
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Tim Rohrer <tgrohrer@y...> wrote:
> I was thinking of two approaches for the oar stowage
> problem if I completely sealed the bow. One is to
> devise a system of stowage where the oars are laid
> along the gunwhales and on top of the bow deck. Not
> sure I like that approach. Another approach is to
> create covers for the openings used by the oars when
> stored. This would allow me to have the oars on board
> for mild days (unlikely to dump the boat) and take the
> oars off for *wilder* days. I had not considered the
> intertube idea which I like as well.
>
> Thanks for the reply.
>
> Tim
RE:
application. A few factors need to be looked at.
1. To how much sunlight will the epoxy be exposed?
I never varnished my epoxy and have had 0 trouble in 3 years. Of
course I keep it covered and dry when not sailing.
2. How long to you want the epoxy to last.
I only expect my boat to last 5 years maximum. All my materials are
spec'd to that age. I used Luan, I used dry-wall screws, I used
poly-tarp for the sail. I will be amazed if I still have the boat
when it reaches 5 years old. I will go nuts if I don't build another
by then. Yes, I do intend my next boat to be build of higher quality
materials and last longer....It won't be my first :-)
3. What epoxy and what varnish?
Some epoxy systems allow a uv protectant to be added at mix time.
Some poly varnishes have little or no uv protection.
Remember, I do agree 100% in principle. You, (the builder) should
always understand that epoxy breaks down fast in sunlight (uv) and
needs uv protection if you value your work, don't want to have to redo
it, and expect it to last.
Brent
> Always coat epoxy with a couple coats of polyurethane varnish.I'll agree with you 100% in principle but only about 80% in
application. A few factors need to be looked at.
1. To how much sunlight will the epoxy be exposed?
I never varnished my epoxy and have had 0 trouble in 3 years. Of
course I keep it covered and dry when not sailing.
2. How long to you want the epoxy to last.
I only expect my boat to last 5 years maximum. All my materials are
spec'd to that age. I used Luan, I used dry-wall screws, I used
poly-tarp for the sail. I will be amazed if I still have the boat
when it reaches 5 years old. I will go nuts if I don't build another
by then. Yes, I do intend my next boat to be build of higher quality
materials and last longer....It won't be my first :-)
3. What epoxy and what varnish?
Some epoxy systems allow a uv protectant to be added at mix time.
Some poly varnishes have little or no uv protection.
Remember, I do agree 100% in principle. You, (the builder) should
always understand that epoxy breaks down fast in sunlight (uv) and
needs uv protection if you value your work, don't want to have to redo
it, and expect it to last.
Brent
Hi Tim,
It might not be apparent in the photos I sent you, but my interior is
not exactly white. It is more of a creme. The point is good though,
Even the creme can be bright on a sunny day. I personally wouldn't
change it though. Creme is soft enough that I can live with it.
It might not be apparent in the photos I sent you, but my interior is
not exactly white. It is more of a creme. The point is good though,
Even the creme can be bright on a sunny day. I personally wouldn't
change it though. Creme is soft enough that I can live with it.
> Also appreciate the thoughts on the white paint. Good
> point that I had not considered. Biege would still
> look good and might take dirt better as well.
Thanks, Garth. Do you have pictures of her?
Tim
--- GarthAB <garth@...> wrote:
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Tim
--- GarthAB <garth@...> wrote:
> Tim --__________________________________
>
> I put a watertight bulkhead forward of the mast on
> my Gypsy, then
> foam blocks around the mast (leaving just enough
> room to step it),
> then a deck over the whole thing, from stem to
> Bulkhead 6. There's a
> hatch held down by bungee cords up in the forward
> area, to keep it
> ventilated, and to use the sealed space created. So
> you get flotation
> and storage at once.
>
> Then I ran the benches all the way up to Bulkhead 6,
> epoxy-and-
> glassing the outboard edges, with a 1X3 stringer
> under their inboard
> edges to keep them stiff. On the starboard stringer
> I put a hinge to
> mount the (now-hinged) seat. I cut a couple of 7"
> high cave-openings
> in Bulkhead 6 to take the blades of the oars. The
> rest of the oars go
> under the hinged seat, and are kept off to the side
> of the floor with
> a little bungee cord.
>
> Also made hatch-access watertight storage behind
> Bulkhead 12.
>
> A lot to explain, but pretty simple to see. It used
> to be in the
> Duckworks archives, but don't think you can get
> access to it there
> anymore.
>
> Anyway -- good luck! Gypsy is a gret boat, no matter
> how you build
> her (so long as she floats).
>
> All best,
> Garth
>
>
>
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Tim --
I put a watertight bulkhead forward of the mast on my Gypsy, then
foam blocks around the mast (leaving just enough room to step it),
then a deck over the whole thing, from stem to Bulkhead 6. There's a
hatch held down by bungee cords up in the forward area, to keep it
ventilated, and to use the sealed space created. So you get flotation
and storage at once.
Then I ran the benches all the way up to Bulkhead 6, epoxy-and-
glassing the outboard edges, with a 1X3 stringer under their inboard
edges to keep them stiff. On the starboard stringer I put a hinge to
mount the (now-hinged) seat. I cut a couple of 7" high cave-openings
in Bulkhead 6 to take the blades of the oars. The rest of the oars go
under the hinged seat, and are kept off to the side of the floor with
a little bungee cord.
Also made hatch-access watertight storage behind Bulkhead 12.
A lot to explain, but pretty simple to see. It used to be in the
Duckworks archives, but don't think you can get access to it there
anymore.
Anyway -- good luck! Gypsy is a gret boat, no matter how you build
her (so long as she floats).
All best,
Garth
I put a watertight bulkhead forward of the mast on my Gypsy, then
foam blocks around the mast (leaving just enough room to step it),
then a deck over the whole thing, from stem to Bulkhead 6. There's a
hatch held down by bungee cords up in the forward area, to keep it
ventilated, and to use the sealed space created. So you get flotation
and storage at once.
Then I ran the benches all the way up to Bulkhead 6, epoxy-and-
glassing the outboard edges, with a 1X3 stringer under their inboard
edges to keep them stiff. On the starboard stringer I put a hinge to
mount the (now-hinged) seat. I cut a couple of 7" high cave-openings
in Bulkhead 6 to take the blades of the oars. The rest of the oars go
under the hinged seat, and are kept off to the side of the floor with
a little bungee cord.
Also made hatch-access watertight storage behind Bulkhead 12.
A lot to explain, but pretty simple to see. It used to be in the
Duckworks archives, but don't think you can get access to it there
anymore.
Anyway -- good luck! Gypsy is a gret boat, no matter how you build
her (so long as she floats).
All best,
Garth
I was thinking of two approaches for the oar stowage
problem if I completely sealed the bow. One is to
devise a system of stowage where the oars are laid
along the gunwhales and on top of the bow deck. Not
sure I like that approach. Another approach is to
create covers for the openings used by the oars when
stored. This would allow me to have the oars on board
for mild days (unlikely to dump the boat) and take the
oars off for *wilder* days. I had not considered the
intertube idea which I like as well.
Thanks for the reply.
Tim
--- Jack &Lois <jalo@...> wrote:
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problem if I completely sealed the bow. One is to
devise a system of stowage where the oars are laid
along the gunwhales and on top of the bow deck. Not
sure I like that approach. Another approach is to
create covers for the openings used by the oars when
stored. This would allow me to have the oars on board
for mild days (unlikely to dump the boat) and take the
oars off for *wilder* days. I had not considered the
intertube idea which I like as well.
Thanks for the reply.
Tim
--- Jack &Lois <jalo@...> wrote:
> Hello Tim. All the best with Gypsy. She's a joy to__________________________________
> sail and behold. Fore and
> aft decks are a good idea, but I'd think twice about
> sealing the forward
> compartment with a solid bulkhead. Bolger's oar
> stowage slots are a blessing
> when under sail. I keep a partially inflated inner
> tube in the forward
> compartment for bow buoyancy in case of a dump,
> which to date (four sailing
> seasons) has not occurred. Sculpted styrofoam, to
> allow for oar stowage,
> would serve the same purpose, but you'd need to
> build in a way to regularly
> patrol for off season mouse, squirrel, and wasp
> occupancy. Plus I'd worry
> about water trapped behind and under the foam.
> Installing a water tight
> hatch cover in the aft bulkhead allows for a great
> place to stow wallet,
> cameras, sandwiches, etc. As to waterproofing
> exposed plywood with paint, it
> ain't gonna happen. If you're lucky, multiple coats
> of epoxy before painting
> will delay the inevitable checks which will appear
> over all non-glassed
> weather exposed surfaces. If you're using good
> marine ply this will be kept
> to a minimum. If you're using construction grade,
> millions of little cracks
> simply go with the territory. Fortunately it's
> mostly cosmetic. Happy
> sailing.
>
> jeb, finally forced back into the boat shop by
> deteriorating ski conditions
> on the seasonally fickle shores of Fundy
>
>
>
>
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Hello Tim. All the best with Gypsy. She's a joy to sail and behold. Fore and
aft decks are a good idea, but I'd think twice about sealing the forward
compartment with a solid bulkhead. Bolger's oar stowage slots are a blessing
when under sail. I keep a partially inflated inner tube in the forward
compartment for bow buoyancy in case of a dump, which to date (four sailing
seasons) has not occurred. Sculpted styrofoam, to allow for oar stowage,
would serve the same purpose, but you'd need to build in a way to regularly
patrol for off season mouse, squirrel, and wasp occupancy. Plus I'd worry
about water trapped behind and under the foam. Installing a water tight
hatch cover in the aft bulkhead allows for a great place to stow wallet,
cameras, sandwiches, etc. As to waterproofing exposed plywood with paint, it
ain't gonna happen. If you're lucky, multiple coats of epoxy before painting
will delay the inevitable checks which will appear over all non-glassed
weather exposed surfaces. If you're using good marine ply this will be kept
to a minimum. If you're using construction grade, millions of little cracks
simply go with the territory. Fortunately it's mostly cosmetic. Happy
sailing.
jeb, finally forced back into the boat shop by deteriorating ski conditions
on the seasonally fickle shores of Fundy
aft decks are a good idea, but I'd think twice about sealing the forward
compartment with a solid bulkhead. Bolger's oar stowage slots are a blessing
when under sail. I keep a partially inflated inner tube in the forward
compartment for bow buoyancy in case of a dump, which to date (four sailing
seasons) has not occurred. Sculpted styrofoam, to allow for oar stowage,
would serve the same purpose, but you'd need to build in a way to regularly
patrol for off season mouse, squirrel, and wasp occupancy. Plus I'd worry
about water trapped behind and under the foam. Installing a water tight
hatch cover in the aft bulkhead allows for a great place to stow wallet,
cameras, sandwiches, etc. As to waterproofing exposed plywood with paint, it
ain't gonna happen. If you're lucky, multiple coats of epoxy before painting
will delay the inevitable checks which will appear over all non-glassed
weather exposed surfaces. If you're using good marine ply this will be kept
to a minimum. If you're using construction grade, millions of little cracks
simply go with the territory. Fortunately it's mostly cosmetic. Happy
sailing.
jeb, finally forced back into the boat shop by deteriorating ski conditions
on the seasonally fickle shores of Fundy
Tim,
With supervision, nine is an excellent age to start as captain of your own
small ship. Life jacket, laced on shoes if there are mussel beds about, and
some sort of rescue boat nearby are recommended as is adult supervision.
Have them read Arthur Ransome's "Swallows and Amazons" series.
Most paints breath water vapor to prevent peeling. A solid slab of rudder
or daggerboard will survive if well seasoned and not possessed of internal
strains. Plywood is less reliable. I seal all surfaces and particularly
the edges of all plywood with three coats of epoxy to totally encapsulate
the wood. Any fiberglass involved with this is to strengthen the epoxy
coating, not the hull.
Some sort of additive for the epoxy is needed to make it thixotropic.
Otherwise the sags and runs will drive you crazy. I highly recommend System
Three's Trial Kit which includes their "Epoxy Book."
http://www.systemthree.com/index_2.aspOther people like Raka
http://www.raka.com/index.html(slightly cheaper) and West System
http://www.raka.com/index.html(widely available), but I haven't used them
and I like Kern Hendrick's stuff.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
With supervision, nine is an excellent age to start as captain of your own
small ship. Life jacket, laced on shoes if there are mussel beds about, and
some sort of rescue boat nearby are recommended as is adult supervision.
Have them read Arthur Ransome's "Swallows and Amazons" series.
Most paints breath water vapor to prevent peeling. A solid slab of rudder
or daggerboard will survive if well seasoned and not possessed of internal
strains. Plywood is less reliable. I seal all surfaces and particularly
the edges of all plywood with three coats of epoxy to totally encapsulate
the wood. Any fiberglass involved with this is to strengthen the epoxy
coating, not the hull.
Some sort of additive for the epoxy is needed to make it thixotropic.
Otherwise the sags and runs will drive you crazy. I highly recommend System
Three's Trial Kit which includes their "Epoxy Book."
http://www.systemthree.com/index_2.aspOther people like Raka
http://www.raka.com/index.html(slightly cheaper) and West System
http://www.raka.com/index.html(widely available), but I haven't used them
and I like Kern Hendrick's stuff.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Rohrer" <tgrohrer@...>
> Thanks, Roger.
>
> Good points about small prams. I may save that for
> when they are a bit older. Right now the boys are
> nine and seven. If either of them seem to really take
> to it, I'll look into building them something smaller.
>
<snip>
>
> Another "newbie" question. Will a coat of good primer
> suffice for making the wood waterproof or should I
> plan on coating all parts (rudder, daggerboard, etc.)
> with epoxy or some other sealant first?
Hey ho.
Karl Stambaugh has some stitch and glue cruisers. benford's designs, I
think, are fairly complex construction projects.
My Cheap Pages have an overview of published Bolger designs.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
>2) I think I will paint the hull dark green and theAlways coat epoxy with a couple coats of polyurethane varnish.
>bilge, etc. white. I would like to have the
>bulkheads, seats, etc., stand out (is this usually
>referred to as "bright work"?). I have heard some
>builders just cover the wood with epoxy and then store
>the boat covered/upside down. Other thoughts for
>finishing?
>3) I am enjoying this project so much I am alreadyJim Michalak of course; also check out Reuel Parker's various sharpies.
>thinking ahead to the next one (after I move this
>summer). I would like to step up in complexity and am
>considering something my family of four could use for
>short-duration cruising. Is there website devoted to
>Bolger desigs? Anyone have any ideas. I also have a
>book that shows Benford designs that I am poking
>through but would like to compile options at this
>stage.
Karl Stambaugh has some stitch and glue cruisers. benford's designs, I
think, are fairly complex construction projects.
My Cheap Pages have an overview of published Bolger designs.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
Thanks, Roger.
Good points about small prams. I may save that for
when they are a bit older. Right now the boys are
nine and seven. If either of them seem to really take
to it, I'll look into building them something smaller.
Also appreciate the thoughts on the white paint. Good
point that I had not considered. Biege would still
look good and might take dirt better as well.
Another "newbie" question. Will a coat of good primer
suffice for making the wood waterproof or should I
plan on coating all parts (rudder, daggerboard, etc.)
with epoxy or some other sealant first?
Tim
--- Roger Derby <derbyrm@...> wrote:
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Good points about small prams. I may save that for
when they are a bit older. Right now the boys are
nine and seven. If either of them seem to really take
to it, I'll look into building them something smaller.
Also appreciate the thoughts on the white paint. Good
point that I had not considered. Biege would still
look good and might take dirt better as well.
Another "newbie" question. Will a coat of good primer
suffice for making the wood waterproof or should I
plan on coating all parts (rudder, daggerboard, etc.)
with epoxy or some other sealant first?
Tim
--- Roger Derby <derbyrm@...> wrote:
> Hi, Tim,__________________________________
>
> For teaching beginners to sail, the small prams;
> e.g. the Optimist, are
> wonderful. I haven't sailed a Brick, but it looks
> like it would be a good
> tool too. Put two students in identical boats and
> when one is going faster,
> the other doesn't have to be told he's doing
> something wrong. The
> instructor cruises around on something faster and
> offers hints.
>
> I can't offer any suggestions for Gypsy, but for
> painting, I thoroughly
> regret having used white paint on my dinghy. When
> the sun is bright, it is
> severely painful to the eyes. An off-white or beige
> would be a much happier
> choice IMHO.
>
> "Bright Work" refers to (usually) varnished wood
> which is a joy to look at
> and a constant maintenance chore. Wooden spars are
> usually finished bright
> so one can see the defects before they break.
>
> Epoxy must be protected from the sun's UV rays.
> Otherwise it breaks down
> and dulls rapidly. It also must be protected from
> the heat build-up
> associated with dark color paints. That's not so
> critical for most boat
> applications, but for home-built aircraft, where
> strength is critical, are
> almost always white (and hard on the eyes). The
> military jobs with the
> black paint are baked during the epoxy cure cycle to
> provide strength at
> higher temperatures. I wouldn't store a dark green
> hull, upside down, in
> the direct sun.
>
> I hope you've joined all three Bolger groups
> (Bolger, Bolger2, and Bolger3),
> and that you've explored the files and photo
> sections. This group, Bolger,
> is the primary communication channel. The others
> provide overflow room for
> the many pictures and drawings.
>
> Welcome aboard.
> Roger
>derbyrm@...
>http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Rohrer" <tgrohrer@...>
>
> > 2) I think I will paint the hull dark green and
> the
> > bilge, etc. white. I would like to have the
> > bulkheads, seats, etc., stand out (is this usually
> > referred to as "bright work"?). I have heard some
> > builders just cover the wood with epoxy and then
> store
> > the boat covered/upside down. Other thoughts for
> > finishing?
> >
> > 3) I am enjoying this project so much I am already
> > thinking ahead to the next one (after I move this
> > summer). I would like to step up in complexity
> and am
> > considering something my family of four could use
> for
> > short-duration cruising. Is there website devoted
> to
> > Bolger desigs? Anyone have any ideas. I also
> have a
> > book that shows Benford designs that I am poking
> > through but would like to compile options at this
> > stage.
>
>
>
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For Tim -
Sounds to me that your in the same place I was when my boy's were young, their now in their 40's.
Seems to me that you should get yourself into "Bolger 2 and 3" Sign up so your a regular member with a password and I.D. so you get complete use of the sight.
On those sights you will find lots of info from builder/members on their projects and see loads of pictures.
I don't know how big a cruiser your interested but I'm getting ready to build a PB&F "Champlain", That's a 22' sharpie power cruiser that's just the best for cruising Florida's coastal waters. I believe on Bolger 3 you'll find pictures of Champlain plus quite a few by that wild & crazy Canuk - Peter Lenihan up Canada way who is building a 33' "Windermere" which I have to say is a very grown up version of "Champlain" and as such he is maintaining a very complete photo site of his progress on Bolger 3.
Of course, these may be a bit more than you want to get get into but with over 700 designs to his credit, Phil Bolger has to have something that will fill the bill. Check out the used book stores for his 4-5 design books and subscripe to Messing About In Boats where Mr Bolger displays a design every 2 weeks.
Good luck, Keep us informed of your progress.
Aloha - Jack Spoering - Ft Lauderdale, Fl
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Sounds to me that your in the same place I was when my boy's were young, their now in their 40's.
Seems to me that you should get yourself into "Bolger 2 and 3" Sign up so your a regular member with a password and I.D. so you get complete use of the sight.
On those sights you will find lots of info from builder/members on their projects and see loads of pictures.
I don't know how big a cruiser your interested but I'm getting ready to build a PB&F "Champlain", That's a 22' sharpie power cruiser that's just the best for cruising Florida's coastal waters. I believe on Bolger 3 you'll find pictures of Champlain plus quite a few by that wild & crazy Canuk - Peter Lenihan up Canada way who is building a 33' "Windermere" which I have to say is a very grown up version of "Champlain" and as such he is maintaining a very complete photo site of his progress on Bolger 3.
Of course, these may be a bit more than you want to get get into but with over 700 designs to his credit, Phil Bolger has to have something that will fill the bill. Check out the used book stores for his 4-5 design books and subscripe to Messing About In Boats where Mr Bolger displays a design every 2 weeks.
Good luck, Keep us informed of your progress.
Aloha - Jack Spoering - Ft Lauderdale, Fl
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi, Tim,
For teaching beginners to sail, the small prams; e.g. the Optimist, are
wonderful. I haven't sailed a Brick, but it looks like it would be a good
tool too. Put two students in identical boats and when one is going faster,
the other doesn't have to be told he's doing something wrong. The
instructor cruises around on something faster and offers hints.
I can't offer any suggestions for Gypsy, but for painting, I thoroughly
regret having used white paint on my dinghy. When the sun is bright, it is
severely painful to the eyes. An off-white or beige would be a much happier
choice IMHO.
"Bright Work" refers to (usually) varnished wood which is a joy to look at
and a constant maintenance chore. Wooden spars are usually finished bright
so one can see the defects before they break.
Epoxy must be protected from the sun's UV rays. Otherwise it breaks down
and dulls rapidly. It also must be protected from the heat build-up
associated with dark color paints. That's not so critical for most boat
applications, but for home-built aircraft, where strength is critical, are
almost always white (and hard on the eyes). The military jobs with the
black paint are baked during the epoxy cure cycle to provide strength at
higher temperatures. I wouldn't store a dark green hull, upside down, in
the direct sun.
I hope you've joined all three Bolger groups (Bolger, Bolger2, and Bolger3),
and that you've explored the files and photo sections. This group, Bolger,
is the primary communication channel. The others provide overflow room for
the many pictures and drawings.
Welcome aboard.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
For teaching beginners to sail, the small prams; e.g. the Optimist, are
wonderful. I haven't sailed a Brick, but it looks like it would be a good
tool too. Put two students in identical boats and when one is going faster,
the other doesn't have to be told he's doing something wrong. The
instructor cruises around on something faster and offers hints.
I can't offer any suggestions for Gypsy, but for painting, I thoroughly
regret having used white paint on my dinghy. When the sun is bright, it is
severely painful to the eyes. An off-white or beige would be a much happier
choice IMHO.
"Bright Work" refers to (usually) varnished wood which is a joy to look at
and a constant maintenance chore. Wooden spars are usually finished bright
so one can see the defects before they break.
Epoxy must be protected from the sun's UV rays. Otherwise it breaks down
and dulls rapidly. It also must be protected from the heat build-up
associated with dark color paints. That's not so critical for most boat
applications, but for home-built aircraft, where strength is critical, are
almost always white (and hard on the eyes). The military jobs with the
black paint are baked during the epoxy cure cycle to provide strength at
higher temperatures. I wouldn't store a dark green hull, upside down, in
the direct sun.
I hope you've joined all three Bolger groups (Bolger, Bolger2, and Bolger3),
and that you've explored the files and photo sections. This group, Bolger,
is the primary communication channel. The others provide overflow room for
the many pictures and drawings.
Welcome aboard.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Rohrer" <tgrohrer@...>
> 2) I think I will paint the hull dark green and the
> bilge, etc. white. I would like to have the
> bulkheads, seats, etc., stand out (is this usually
> referred to as "bright work"?). I have heard some
> builders just cover the wood with epoxy and then store
> the boat covered/upside down. Other thoughts for
> finishing?
>
> 3) I am enjoying this project so much I am already
> thinking ahead to the next one (after I move this
> summer). I would like to step up in complexity and am
> considering something my family of four could use for
> short-duration cruising. Is there website devoted to
> Bolger desigs? Anyone have any ideas. I also have a
> book that shows Benford designs that I am poking
> through but would like to compile options at this
> stage.
Dear Ladies and Gentlemen,
I have been lurking for a couple of weeks now and
think I should introduce myself. My name is Tim
Rohrer and I am building Gypsy in my garage.
Following taping of the exterior seams, I will be
flipping her over to start on the inside. While I
have been waiting for the arrival of tape and cloth
from RAKA, I have been preparing some of the interior
pieces and the daggerboard.
While my skills remain pretty nascent, I am having a
blast. I do have a couple of questions (which will
undoubtedly highlight my newbie status!):
1) The Gypsy I am building will be pretty close to the
plans except I think I will enclose the bow and stern
areas as I believe that will be safer and I want to
use the boat for teaching my young sons how to sail.
I have seen a couple people on the web who have done
this and they seem happy with the modifications. Have
any of you completed similar alterations and what are
your thoughts now? What are some other ways to make
the boat safer for young boys learning how to sail?
2) I think I will paint the hull dark green and the
bilge, etc. white. I would like to have the
bulkheads, seats, etc., stand out (is this usually
referred to as "bright work"?). I have heard some
builders just cover the wood with epoxy and then store
the boat covered/upside down. Other thoughts for
finishing?
3) I am enjoying this project so much I am already
thinking ahead to the next one (after I move this
summer). I would like to step up in complexity and am
considering something my family of four could use for
short-duration cruising. Is there website devoted to
Bolger desigs? Anyone have any ideas. I also have a
book that shows Benford designs that I am poking
through but would like to compile options at this
stage.
Thanks everyone. I have enjoyed reading your posts
and look forward to hearing back from some.
Warm regards,
Tim Rohrer
tgrohrer@...
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what you�re looking for faster
http://search.yahoo.com
I have been lurking for a couple of weeks now and
think I should introduce myself. My name is Tim
Rohrer and I am building Gypsy in my garage.
Following taping of the exterior seams, I will be
flipping her over to start on the inside. While I
have been waiting for the arrival of tape and cloth
from RAKA, I have been preparing some of the interior
pieces and the daggerboard.
While my skills remain pretty nascent, I am having a
blast. I do have a couple of questions (which will
undoubtedly highlight my newbie status!):
1) The Gypsy I am building will be pretty close to the
plans except I think I will enclose the bow and stern
areas as I believe that will be safer and I want to
use the boat for teaching my young sons how to sail.
I have seen a couple people on the web who have done
this and they seem happy with the modifications. Have
any of you completed similar alterations and what are
your thoughts now? What are some other ways to make
the boat safer for young boys learning how to sail?
2) I think I will paint the hull dark green and the
bilge, etc. white. I would like to have the
bulkheads, seats, etc., stand out (is this usually
referred to as "bright work"?). I have heard some
builders just cover the wood with epoxy and then store
the boat covered/upside down. Other thoughts for
finishing?
3) I am enjoying this project so much I am already
thinking ahead to the next one (after I move this
summer). I would like to step up in complexity and am
considering something my family of four could use for
short-duration cruising. Is there website devoted to
Bolger desigs? Anyone have any ideas. I also have a
book that shows Benford designs that I am poking
through but would like to compile options at this
stage.
Thanks everyone. I have enjoyed reading your posts
and look forward to hearing back from some.
Warm regards,
Tim Rohrer
tgrohrer@...
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what you�re looking for faster
http://search.yahoo.com
In a message dated 12/6/99 7:45:07 AM Central Standard Time,Teakdeck@...
writes:
<< I just
made a lateen polytarp sail for my Windsprint. Haven't tried it yet. I'm
curious as to why the lateen sail.
Mike Masten >>
I'd like to know more about how your Lanteen sail works Mike as i was
thinking about trying that on the Windsprint i just got from John Bell,
Larry Henry
P.S. Welcome Rob!
Palm Bay, Florida
<A HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/henryclann/Boats/amatureboats.index.htm">The
Careenage & Blue Lagoon, A page for Home Built Boats & Owners!</A>
Remember; the Titanic was built by the professionals, but Noah's Ark by
amatuers!
writes:
<< I just
made a lateen polytarp sail for my Windsprint. Haven't tried it yet. I'm
curious as to why the lateen sail.
Mike Masten >>
I'd like to know more about how your Lanteen sail works Mike as i was
thinking about trying that on the Windsprint i just got from John Bell,
Larry Henry
P.S. Welcome Rob!
Palm Bay, Florida
<A HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/henryclann/Boats/amatureboats.index.htm">The
Careenage & Blue Lagoon, A page for Home Built Boats & Owners!</A>
Remember; the Titanic was built by the professionals, but Noah's Ark by
amatuers!
Storm Petrel is Chapter 10 in Bolger's DIFFERENT BOATS (1980, International Marine Publishing Co.).
Bolger describes the boat as "the absolute minimum seaworthy boat" after defining seaworthiness as "the ability to keep the sea in all weather in reasonable safety."
The boat is a 16' 4" x 5' 2" flat-bottom skiff, partially decked in to form a "refuge chamber" (his words) with just enough room for 2 people to lie down, coffin-style, and an enlarged box-top hatch to give sitting headroom. A 3/8" steel plate cut to profile and bolted to the bottom serves as both a full keel and ballast.
The modest sail rig uses the 81 sq ft boomed lateen from the Bolger Zephyr in Payson's INSTANT BOATS. The design was originally for Payson.
I know of one boat modified as a spritsail sloop which has been sailing on S.F. Bay for 15 years or so.
As for why I was hooked, Phil says, "In spite of its modest performance--maybe partly because of it--I think one could become very fond of a boat like this. For the materials and labor involved, she's remarkably able and roomy.... Incidentally, she's a very good-looking boat to my eye."
'Nough said!
Regards,
Matthew
P.S. Sorry all about the binary attachment on the last message.
---
Matthew Long & Agnes Peillet
Jamaica Plain, Massachusetts, USA
Visit our homepage & the Bolger Brick "Tetard" pages at:
http://www.gis.net/~owlnmole
Bolger describes the boat as "the absolute minimum seaworthy boat" after defining seaworthiness as "the ability to keep the sea in all weather in reasonable safety."
The boat is a 16' 4" x 5' 2" flat-bottom skiff, partially decked in to form a "refuge chamber" (his words) with just enough room for 2 people to lie down, coffin-style, and an enlarged box-top hatch to give sitting headroom. A 3/8" steel plate cut to profile and bolted to the bottom serves as both a full keel and ballast.
The modest sail rig uses the 81 sq ft boomed lateen from the Bolger Zephyr in Payson's INSTANT BOATS. The design was originally for Payson.
I know of one boat modified as a spritsail sloop which has been sailing on S.F. Bay for 15 years or so.
As for why I was hooked, Phil says, "In spite of its modest performance--maybe partly because of it--I think one could become very fond of a boat like this. For the materials and labor involved, she's remarkably able and roomy.... Incidentally, she's a very good-looking boat to my eye."
'Nough said!
Regards,
Matthew
P.S. Sorry all about the binary attachment on the last message.
---
Matthew Long & Agnes Peillet
Jamaica Plain, Massachusetts, USA
Visit our homepage & the Bolger Brick "Tetard" pages at:
http://www.gis.net/~owlnmole
On Mon, 6 Dec 1999 08:31:20 Teakdeck wrote:
>Matthew,
>
>I don't think I've heard much about a Storm Petrel. Where can I find the
>particulars? I noticed from your drawing the boat shows a lateen sail. I just
>made a lateen polytarp sail for my Windsprint. Haven't tried it yet. I'm
>curious as to why the lateen sail.
>
>Mike Masten
>
--== Sent via Deja.comhttp://www.deja.com/==--
Share what you know. Learn what you don't.
Matthew,
I don't think I've heard much about a Storm Petrel. Where can I find the
particulars? I noticed from your drawing the boat shows a lateen sail. I just
made a lateen polytarp sail for my Windsprint. Haven't tried it yet. I'm
curious as to why the lateen sail.
Mike Masten
I don't think I've heard much about a Storm Petrel. Where can I find the
particulars? I noticed from your drawing the boat shows a lateen sail. I just
made a lateen polytarp sail for my Windsprint. Haven't tried it yet. I'm
curious as to why the lateen sail.
Mike Masten
Hello all!
Some of you may know me from the Bolgerlist or from my Brick website, but if not my name is Matthew Long and I have build two Bolger boats, a Brick scow sailboat and a Yellow Leaf flat-bottom canoe. My next project, I hope, will be a Storm Petrel, a flat-bottom decked-in sailing skiff with a full keel of steel plate--see the attached sketch (the modified doghouse and the "eye" deadlights are my additions).
I'd love to hear from anyone on the Storm Petrel, or on the boats I have already built.
Regards,
Matthew
---
Matthew Long & Agnes Peillet
Jamaica Plain, Massachusetts, USA
Visit our homepage & the Bolger Brick "Tetard" pages at:
http://www.gis.net/~owlnmole
--== Sent via Deja.comhttp://www.deja.com/==--
Share what you know. Learn what you don't.
Some of you may know me from the Bolgerlist or from my Brick website, but if not my name is Matthew Long and I have build two Bolger boats, a Brick scow sailboat and a Yellow Leaf flat-bottom canoe. My next project, I hope, will be a Storm Petrel, a flat-bottom decked-in sailing skiff with a full keel of steel plate--see the attached sketch (the modified doghouse and the "eye" deadlights are my additions).
I'd love to hear from anyone on the Storm Petrel, or on the boats I have already built.
Regards,
Matthew
---
Matthew Long & Agnes Peillet
Jamaica Plain, Massachusetts, USA
Visit our homepage & the Bolger Brick "Tetard" pages at:
http://www.gis.net/~owlnmole
--== Sent via Deja.comhttp://www.deja.com/==--
Share what you know. Learn what you don't.
My daughter tells me that I'm obsessed....
GHC wrote:
GHC wrote:
> David,
>
> You're worse than I am!
>
Hello, All,
I have built a Common Sense Pirogue, a Payson Pirogue/Canoe, and a
Shoebox that nests into a Tortoise (I widened the Tortoise two inches,
left out the sailing gear, and placed short decks fore and aft instead
of a single deck--works nice). Other non-Bolger boats I have built
include a 17.5' Monford (Geodesic Airolite) Canoe, a 22' Benford
Gunkholer, an Zydeco Pirogue, and a self designed 13' skiff with a rig
salvaged from a Blue Jay. The less said about the skiff, the better. As
soon as I can clear some boats and wasps out of the garage and get a
couple of kids off to college, I think I might build an AS-29. Until
then I am mulling over plans for a Birdwatcher vs. a Dugong--yeah, I
know, vastly different construction, but a similar concept--or maybe a
Micro, or...Help! Somebody stop me! Anyway, I look forward to
participating, and thank you all for the fine reading I have enjoyed
thus far (I read through the archives from the beginning of the list
before joining),
david
I have built a Common Sense Pirogue, a Payson Pirogue/Canoe, and a
Shoebox that nests into a Tortoise (I widened the Tortoise two inches,
left out the sailing gear, and placed short decks fore and aft instead
of a single deck--works nice). Other non-Bolger boats I have built
include a 17.5' Monford (Geodesic Airolite) Canoe, a 22' Benford
Gunkholer, an Zydeco Pirogue, and a self designed 13' skiff with a rig
salvaged from a Blue Jay. The less said about the skiff, the better. As
soon as I can clear some boats and wasps out of the garage and get a
couple of kids off to college, I think I might build an AS-29. Until
then I am mulling over plans for a Birdwatcher vs. a Dugong--yeah, I
know, vastly different construction, but a similar concept--or maybe a
Micro, or...Help! Somebody stop me! Anyway, I look forward to
participating, and thank you all for the fine reading I have enjoyed
thus far (I read through the archives from the beginning of the list
before joining),
david
David,
You're worse than I am!
Welcome, Gregg Carlson
At 05:00 PM 9/1/1999 -0700, you wrote:
You're worse than I am!
Welcome, Gregg Carlson
At 05:00 PM 9/1/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>Hello, All,
>I have built a Common Sense Pirogue, a Payson Pirogue/Canoe, and a
>Shoebox that nests into a Tortoise (I widened the Tortoise two inches,
>left out the sailing gear, and placed short decks fore and aft instead
>of a single deck--works nice). Other non-Bolger boats I have built
>include a 17.5' Monford (Geodesic Airolite) Canoe, a 22' Benford
>Gunkholer, an Zydeco Pirogue, and a self designed 13' skiff with a rig
>salvaged from a Blue Jay. The less said about the skiff, the better. As
>soon as I can clear some boats and wasps out of the garage and get a
>couple of kids off to college, I think I might build an AS-29. Until
>then I am mulling over plans for a Birdwatcher vs. a Dugong--yeah, I
>know, vastly different construction, but a similar concept--or maybe a
>Micro, or...Help! Somebody stop me! Anyway, I look forward to
>participating, and thank you all for the fine reading I have enjoyed
>thus far (I read through the archives from the beginning of the list
>before joining),
>david
>
>
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