Re: Micro surgery
Jeb, did you consider fixing the second layer of ply to the outside
of the bottom?
This would give a much better and stronger result, with less chance
of distorting the bottom curves. And not difficult to do.
Wide glass tape bonding the sides and bottom would almost make the
short rotted lengths of chine fore and aft irrelevant, though
conscience dictates that rot should be removed.
DonB
of the bottom?
This would give a much better and stronger result, with less chance
of distorting the bottom curves. And not difficult to do.
Wide glass tape bonding the sides and bottom would almost make the
short rotted lengths of chine fore and aft irrelevant, though
conscience dictates that rot should be removed.
DonB
--- In bolger@y..., "Jack&Lois" <jalo@i...> wrote:
> The rescued Micro (AKA Bilbo's Pocket) typically needs more work
than my
> starry eyes first assessed. Still she's in promising shape. Outer
hull is
> super sound and her paint is still in good shape. I'll replace most
if not
> all gunnels, rub rails, and hatch sliders. There are only a few
places where
> the unholy combo of sitting rain water, rotting leaves and time
have taken
> their toll. These include chine logs fore and aft in the free
flooding
> compartments and one short section in the cuddy. I've surgically
removed the
> worst parts. The previous owner of the boat coated the entire
interior of
> the boat with something like Bondo, a polyester based auto body
fill (what
> WAS he thinking!). To make maters worse he spread this stuff over
painted or
> primed plywood. In a way it was a blessing since the Bondo didn't
really
> adhere to the ply, making big chunks of it easy to flake out. But
the curse
> side is that this unstuck stuff allowed water to collect between
layers so
> everything stayed wet, even though the enterior looked dry after
sitting in
> my shop for several months. With the help of my trusty angle
grinder I'm
> managing to get down to clean, bare plywood for the entire sole.
It's
> finally drying out very nicely. Once completely stripped my plan is
to let
> her cook all summer (my workshop is a 36'x18' bow roof greenhouse)
and then
> start rebuilding in the fall. I'll double her bottom by adding
another layer
> of plywood to the sole, making everything flush with the butt
plates. As
> much as I hate the idea, I think I should remove all chine logs to
make for
> consistant fitting of the new ply and then replace the logs with
deep
> fillets and fibreglass tape. If anyone has creative ideas
(preferably tried
> and true) for removing chine logs other that hammer and chisel, I'd
love to
> hear about it. I have scary fantacies of wilding my grinder with a
deadly
> diamond toothed masonary saw blade attached, slicing through wood,
epoxy,
> and brass nails with ease. But then I break out in a cold sweat
when I think
> of crouching and crawing in close quarters with a hand held saw
spinning at
> 10,000 rpm. Took a chunk out of my Levis the other day with just a
sanding
> disk, for crying out loud!
>
> jeb, running out of easy ways out, on the roaring shores of Fundy
--- In bolger@y..., "Paul Lefebvre" <paul@w...> wrote:
Hmm...I think that I would use the hammer and chisel approach (use an
old one incase you hit nails). But, only remove the damaged wood, no
more.
Then I would fill in the low spots and kind of round it off. Coat
with Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES) and then put 4" tape and
filler over the good wood. That should hold it for another half life.
As you have probably already discovered, the sound of power tools
inside a Micro's cabin is amplified about 10 fold. The less you have
to tolerate it the better. I was thinking about installing a bridge
at the end of the cockpit and stringing it with some double bass
strings across the cockpit hatch. I would then sneak up off some
beach in the fog playing the "Theme from Jaws". :-)
David Jost
That would work, though your neighbour won't have one
of these!. If you feel tempted to try an alternative,
don't bother with the other detail sanders, unless you
can find one that rotates through an arc, doesn't just
buzz. The Fein is essentialy cutting like one of those
cast cutting saws that bone doctors have. You can
touch the blade to skin, and it won't cut, but it will
cut wood. Amazing! I wish someone would teach my
table saw that trick.
---
little Fein sanders, you know the kind that get into
small corners, etc.<BR>
They had a sawblade attachment for it that gives a
flush-cut capability, and<BR>
______________________________________________________________________
Find, Connect, Date!http://personals.yahoo.ca
of these!. If you feel tempted to try an alternative,
don't bother with the other detail sanders, unless you
can find one that rotates through an arc, doesn't just
buzz. The Fein is essentialy cutting like one of those
cast cutting saws that bone doctors have. You can
touch the blade to skin, and it won't cut, but it will
cut wood. Amazing! I wish someone would teach my
table saw that trick.
---
little Fein sanders, you know the kind that get into
small corners, etc.<BR>
They had a sawblade attachment for it that gives a
flush-cut capability, and<BR>
______________________________________________________________________
Find, Connect, Date!http://personals.yahoo.ca
> Subject: [bolger] Micro surgeryThis is not a tried and true method, but it might be a reasonable
>If anyone has creative ideas
> (preferably tried
> and true) for removing chine logs other that hammer and chisel,
> I'd love to hear about it.
alternative to the circular cutoff saw suggested in another reply to this
message. At the Maine Boatbuilder's show there was a demo booth for those
little Fein sanders, you know the kind that get into small corners, etc.
They had a sawblade attachment for it that gives a flush-cut capability, and
it cuts surprisingly quickly, yet under total control. Those tools are not
cheap, but it might be worthwhile if you've got alot of this to do (which it
sounds like you do). Not sure how it would react to nails or screws, but
they probably have a hacksaw blade equivalent.....
Paul Lefebvre
A flush cutting circular saw might work.. You know
those things they use to cut out the 2xs at the base
of the studs when opening out doors. Obviously you
wouldn't buy it for this alone, but if a pal in
construction has one it might work. In practice going
after the logs with a chisel might prove fastter than
getting the calls made and picking up the saw.
Another option would be to entoomb it all in the
fillets.
fillets and fibreglass tape. If anyone has creative
ideas (preferably tried<BR>
and true) for removing chine logs other that hammer
and chisel, I'd love to<BR>
hear about it. I have scary fantacies of wilding my
grinder with a deadly<BR>
diamond toothed masonary saw blade attached, slicing
______________________________________________________________________
Find, Connect, Date!http://personals.yahoo.ca
those things they use to cut out the 2xs at the base
of the studs when opening out doors. Obviously you
wouldn't buy it for this alone, but if a pal in
construction has one it might work. In practice going
after the logs with a chisel might prove fastter than
getting the calls made and picking up the saw.
Another option would be to entoomb it all in the
fillets.
fillets and fibreglass tape. If anyone has creative
ideas (preferably tried<BR>
and true) for removing chine logs other that hammer
and chisel, I'd love to<BR>
hear about it. I have scary fantacies of wilding my
grinder with a deadly<BR>
diamond toothed masonary saw blade attached, slicing
______________________________________________________________________
Find, Connect, Date!http://personals.yahoo.ca
The rescued Micro (AKA Bilbo's Pocket) typically needs more work than my
starry eyes first assessed. Still she's in promising shape. Outer hull is
super sound and her paint is still in good shape. I'll replace most if not
all gunnels, rub rails, and hatch sliders. There are only a few places where
the unholy combo of sitting rain water, rotting leaves and time have taken
their toll. These include chine logs fore and aft in the free flooding
compartments and one short section in the cuddy. I've surgically removed the
worst parts. The previous owner of the boat coated the entire interior of
the boat with something like Bondo, a polyester based auto body fill (what
WAS he thinking!). To make maters worse he spread this stuff over painted or
primed plywood. In a way it was a blessing since the Bondo didn't really
adhere to the ply, making big chunks of it easy to flake out. But the curse
side is that this unstuck stuff allowed water to collect between layers so
everything stayed wet, even though the enterior looked dry after sitting in
my shop for several months. With the help of my trusty angle grinder I'm
managing to get down to clean, bare plywood for the entire sole. It's
finally drying out very nicely. Once completely stripped my plan is to let
her cook all summer (my workshop is a 36'x18' bow roof greenhouse) and then
start rebuilding in the fall. I'll double her bottom by adding another layer
of plywood to the sole, making everything flush with the butt plates. As
much as I hate the idea, I think I should remove all chine logs to make for
consistant fitting of the new ply and then replace the logs with deep
fillets and fibreglass tape. If anyone has creative ideas (preferably tried
and true) for removing chine logs other that hammer and chisel, I'd love to
hear about it. I have scary fantacies of wilding my grinder with a deadly
diamond toothed masonary saw blade attached, slicing through wood, epoxy,
and brass nails with ease. But then I break out in a cold sweat when I think
of crouching and crawing in close quarters with a hand held saw spinning at
10,000 rpm. Took a chunk out of my Levis the other day with just a sanding
disk, for crying out loud!
jeb, running out of easy ways out, on the roaring shores of Fundy
starry eyes first assessed. Still she's in promising shape. Outer hull is
super sound and her paint is still in good shape. I'll replace most if not
all gunnels, rub rails, and hatch sliders. There are only a few places where
the unholy combo of sitting rain water, rotting leaves and time have taken
their toll. These include chine logs fore and aft in the free flooding
compartments and one short section in the cuddy. I've surgically removed the
worst parts. The previous owner of the boat coated the entire interior of
the boat with something like Bondo, a polyester based auto body fill (what
WAS he thinking!). To make maters worse he spread this stuff over painted or
primed plywood. In a way it was a blessing since the Bondo didn't really
adhere to the ply, making big chunks of it easy to flake out. But the curse
side is that this unstuck stuff allowed water to collect between layers so
everything stayed wet, even though the enterior looked dry after sitting in
my shop for several months. With the help of my trusty angle grinder I'm
managing to get down to clean, bare plywood for the entire sole. It's
finally drying out very nicely. Once completely stripped my plan is to let
her cook all summer (my workshop is a 36'x18' bow roof greenhouse) and then
start rebuilding in the fall. I'll double her bottom by adding another layer
of plywood to the sole, making everything flush with the butt plates. As
much as I hate the idea, I think I should remove all chine logs to make for
consistant fitting of the new ply and then replace the logs with deep
fillets and fibreglass tape. If anyone has creative ideas (preferably tried
and true) for removing chine logs other that hammer and chisel, I'd love to
hear about it. I have scary fantacies of wilding my grinder with a deadly
diamond toothed masonary saw blade attached, slicing through wood, epoxy,
and brass nails with ease. But then I break out in a cold sweat when I think
of crouching and crawing in close quarters with a hand held saw spinning at
10,000 rpm. Took a chunk out of my Levis the other day with just a sanding
disk, for crying out loud!
jeb, running out of easy ways out, on the roaring shores of Fundy