Re: [bolger] Re: Anti Rot
Right, and he had a few warnings about some of the
Carnell things we have previously discussed.--- sanmi
<sanmi@...> wrote:
In "Wooden Boat" Richard Jagels just had an
column on wood <BR>
preservatives. I think issue 164.<BR>
<BR>
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Carnell things we have previously discussed.--- sanmi
<sanmi@...> wrote:
In "Wooden Boat" Richard Jagels just had an
column on wood <BR>
preservatives. I think issue 164.<BR>
<BR>
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In "Wooden Boat" Richard Jagels just had an column on wood
preservatives. I think issue 164.
Frank San Miguel
Wilmington, DE
preservatives. I think issue 164.
Frank San Miguel
Wilmington, DE
--- In bolger@y..., Jim Pope <jpope@a...> wrote:
> One of the reasons we coat everything with epoxy is to keep the
wood dry
> and thus prevent rot.
> Life is not perfect, however, and a certain watchfulness is
necessary to
> keep the sealing coat intact. The price for missing the crack or the
> scratch is water in the wood and, in the heat of the summer, rot.
Fixing
> rot means surgery.
> Or does it?
> This is an appeal to the chemists and biologists in the group. Is
there
> any material that we can use, paint-like, to coat the wood before we
> epoxy it that will, over time, sink in and kill the fungus spores
in
> the wood and still not damage the adhesion of epoxy to the wood?
> Is there anything that we can slather onto rotted wood that will
kill
> the rot and allow us the opportunity to use low viscosity epoxy
like Git
> Rot to rebuild the strength in the rotted wood without performing
> surgery on the boat's structure?
> Jim
I don't recall what Buehler recommends in his book (got a cat on my lap so
I can't go check), but if it's green it's probably copper naphthanate.
Good stuff. I've used it under houses, when I did that sort of distasteful
work years ago. The stuff we used had the brand name "Green Guard", IIRC.
The fumes from the petroleum distillate vehicle are kinda nasty in close
quarters or when spraying, but after they evaporate the stuff is fairly
benign to higher animals. Other crews were still using Penta back then, but
I'd been reading John Gardner's articles in National Fisherman about the
nasty stuff Boatbuilders were being exposed to, and fortunately we had the
freedom to choose something safer. Gardner recommended copper naphthanate.
Copper naphthanate is reputed to be hard to cover with paint (no problem
for the underpinnings of a house), it bleed through. A primer coat of real
aluminum paint (hard to find these days, anyone know why?) might help.
I can't go check), but if it's green it's probably copper naphthanate.
Good stuff. I've used it under houses, when I did that sort of distasteful
work years ago. The stuff we used had the brand name "Green Guard", IIRC.
The fumes from the petroleum distillate vehicle are kinda nasty in close
quarters or when spraying, but after they evaporate the stuff is fairly
benign to higher animals. Other crews were still using Penta back then, but
I'd been reading John Gardner's articles in National Fisherman about the
nasty stuff Boatbuilders were being exposed to, and fortunately we had the
freedom to choose something safer. Gardner recommended copper naphthanate.
Copper naphthanate is reputed to be hard to cover with paint (no problem
for the underpinnings of a house), it bleed through. A primer coat of real
aluminum paint (hard to find these days, anyone know why?) might help.
On Fri, 17 May 2002 13:49:14 -0600, Hal wrote:
> George Beuler (sp) recommends spraying the inside of the
> hull with isome kind of *icide (green stuff) all during the
> building process paying particular attention to edges and ends.
> He uses a garden sprayer (hand pump) and says to spray on enough
> that the excess runs into the bilge where it is needed most. He
> also is NOT in favor of a barrier coat on the inside of the hull.
> He says the wood needs to breath.
>
> I hope I got that correct. Memory ya know.
>
> hal
--
John <jkohnen@...>
http://www.boat-links.com/
Hanging is too good for a man who makes puns; he should be drawn and quoted.
<Fred Allen>
If you get the vacuum low enough, it should be like slowly boiling off
the water! If you put a cup of room temparature water in a bell jar,
you can make it boil for a while until it cools off. This takes a
pretty good vacuum, something like 0.25 to 0.5 psi absolute (i.e.
very close to 30 or 31" HG, depending on the day and the gauge), and
probably a very good bag set up and a pretty good pump capable of
going that low. No way a shop vac or even a cheap diaphragm pump is
going to do it. I suspect it would take a long time, as the inside of
the ply will cool off and has to absorb some heat from the environment
to boil off the water, plus of course the water vapor has to get to
the edge of the panel. At least there's a little pressure driving it.
( I checked the tables in my old thermo book for the vapor pressure of
water.) Probably a good idea not to pull enough vacuum to freeze
things! (THat would a bit less than .1 psi absolute). Obviously, a
standard vacuum guage won't do much good here. Might be easier to put
a thermal sensing element in the middle of the stack or just have a
way to put in a test cup of water with a thermometer in it. Or maybe
there are cheap, appropriate guages I haven't seen, since I haven't
looked.
I wonder how this all would work as a way of drying green lumber? Of
course if pieces in stack did not fit well, there would be a lot of
crushing. Maybe bag the whole trunk first!?! Might get TOO dry.
the water! If you put a cup of room temparature water in a bell jar,
you can make it boil for a while until it cools off. This takes a
pretty good vacuum, something like 0.25 to 0.5 psi absolute (i.e.
very close to 30 or 31" HG, depending on the day and the gauge), and
probably a very good bag set up and a pretty good pump capable of
going that low. No way a shop vac or even a cheap diaphragm pump is
going to do it. I suspect it would take a long time, as the inside of
the ply will cool off and has to absorb some heat from the environment
to boil off the water, plus of course the water vapor has to get to
the edge of the panel. At least there's a little pressure driving it.
( I checked the tables in my old thermo book for the vapor pressure of
water.) Probably a good idea not to pull enough vacuum to freeze
things! (THat would a bit less than .1 psi absolute). Obviously, a
standard vacuum guage won't do much good here. Might be easier to put
a thermal sensing element in the middle of the stack or just have a
way to put in a test cup of water with a thermometer in it. Or maybe
there are cheap, appropriate guages I haven't seen, since I haven't
looked.
I wonder how this all would work as a way of drying green lumber? Of
course if pieces in stack did not fit well, there would be a lot of
crushing. Maybe bag the whole trunk first!?! Might get TOO dry.
--- In bolger@y..., thomas dalzell <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
> I don't think you can dry ply with vac, but you should
> be able to equalise the pressure, and in that
> environment a lot of water would come out, the
> leftover ply would still be damp, but it wouldn't be
> saturated.
>
> Wood absolutely does not need to breath. Encapsualted
> boats do very nicely. But if moisture has an ingress,
> then an egress is a good idea also.
>
>
> --- rnlocnil <lincolnr@m...> wrote:
>
> <HR>
> <html><body>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
> Find, Connect, Date!http://personals.yahoo.ca
I don't think you can dry ply with vac, but you should
be able to equalise the pressure, and in that
environment a lot of water would come out, the
leftover ply would still be damp, but it wouldn't be
saturated.
Wood absolutely does not need to breath. Encapsualted
boats do very nicely. But if moisture has an ingress,
then an egress is a good idea also.
--- rnlocnil <lincolnr@...> wrote:
<HR>
<html><body>
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be able to equalise the pressure, and in that
environment a lot of water would come out, the
leftover ply would still be damp, but it wouldn't be
saturated.
Wood absolutely does not need to breath. Encapsualted
boats do very nicely. But if moisture has an ingress,
then an egress is a good idea also.
--- rnlocnil <lincolnr@...> wrote:
<HR>
<html><body>
______________________________________________________________________
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I don't think you can dry ply with vac, but you should
be able to equalise the pressure, and in that
environment a lot of water would come out, the
leftover ply would still be damp, but it wouldn't be
saturated.
Wood absolutely does not need to breath. Encapsualted
boats do very nicely. But if moisture has an ingress,
then an egress is a good idea also.
--- rnlocnil <lincolnr@...> wrote:
<HR>
<html><body>
______________________________________________________________________
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be able to equalise the pressure, and in that
environment a lot of water would come out, the
leftover ply would still be damp, but it wouldn't be
saturated.
Wood absolutely does not need to breath. Encapsualted
boats do very nicely. But if moisture has an ingress,
then an egress is a good idea also.
--- rnlocnil <lincolnr@...> wrote:
<HR>
<html><body>
______________________________________________________________________
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Someone mentioned vacuum bagging plywood to dry it. This would
probably require a very good pump, but might then work. THe vapor
pressure of water at room temperature is pretty low. It would probably
take a long time for inner plies to dry out, since they would tend to
cool off, but I bet if you left it on a long time you could dry a
whole stack of ply at once.
As far as the handling issue goes, it might be possible to set up the
bag ahead of time so you don't have to move the wood, but merely
drain the liquid and close the bag. In fact, cycling thru vacuum while
immersed might make the preservative work its way in faster.
I've heard that ordinary salt prevents rot, but I guess it washes out
easily.
If it's necessary for wood to "breathe", I wonder how the inner plies
are supposed to do so?
probably require a very good pump, but might then work. THe vapor
pressure of water at room temperature is pretty low. It would probably
take a long time for inner plies to dry out, since they would tend to
cool off, but I bet if you left it on a long time you could dry a
whole stack of ply at once.
As far as the handling issue goes, it might be possible to set up the
bag ahead of time so you don't have to move the wood, but merely
drain the liquid and close the bag. In fact, cycling thru vacuum while
immersed might make the preservative work its way in faster.
I've heard that ordinary salt prevents rot, but I guess it washes out
easily.
If it's necessary for wood to "breathe", I wonder how the inner plies
are supposed to do so?
Just so I am not misleading you on one of these
points: The weight would drop right back down when
the ply dried out, I was just thinking it could be
unpleasant dealing, even temporarily, with sheets of
ply weighing perhaps 100# each. I don't have much
help moving stuff around my shop, and couldn't
consider it.
--- futabachan <futabachan@...> wrote:
<HR>
<html><body>
<tt>
<BR>
...both of which are excellent reasons to scrap the
whole concept.<BR>
Thanks!<BR>
<BR>
--<BR>
Susan Davis <futabachan@...><BR>
<BR>
</tt>
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points: The weight would drop right back down when
the ply dried out, I was just thinking it could be
unpleasant dealing, even temporarily, with sheets of
ply weighing perhaps 100# each. I don't have much
help moving stuff around my shop, and couldn't
consider it.
--- futabachan <futabachan@...> wrote:
<HR>
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<tt>
> It would upon<BR>its<BR>
> saturation weigh anything up to about 250% of
> original weight, and there might be somewrikling. <BR>
<BR>
...both of which are excellent reasons to scrap the
whole concept.<BR>
Thanks!<BR>
<BR>
--<BR>
Susan Davis <futabachan@...><BR>
<BR>
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Jim, a couple of years ago I was looking into CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy
System [?]). Comes from Seattle and/or California. Lots of discussion about
it around then on the Wooden Boat forum. The person who
invented/promotes/sells it calls himself Dr. Rot. He probably still has a
webpage. It's meant to miraculously serve all the purposes you mentioned. I
emailed the guy a couple of times when I was thinking of using it to
pre-coat all the plywood for WDJ. The main obsticle is getting it into
Canada. It's classed a hazardous material. The folks at Classic Boats in
Maine told me they'd gladly receive it for me. But the trick would still be
getting it across the boarder in my vehicle, either by road or ferry.
There's a Nova Scotia product called S1, a penetrating epoxy that stinks to
high heaven, that I think more or less does the same thing. I plan to use
multiple coats on the sole of the Micro before gluing another layer of
plywood down. But if you're on the US side of the boarder you might want to
check out the good doctor and CPES. Good luck.
jeb, working in well ventilated spaces on the shores of Fundy
System [?]). Comes from Seattle and/or California. Lots of discussion about
it around then on the Wooden Boat forum. The person who
invented/promotes/sells it calls himself Dr. Rot. He probably still has a
webpage. It's meant to miraculously serve all the purposes you mentioned. I
emailed the guy a couple of times when I was thinking of using it to
pre-coat all the plywood for WDJ. The main obsticle is getting it into
Canada. It's classed a hazardous material. The folks at Classic Boats in
Maine told me they'd gladly receive it for me. But the trick would still be
getting it across the boarder in my vehicle, either by road or ferry.
There's a Nova Scotia product called S1, a penetrating epoxy that stinks to
high heaven, that I think more or less does the same thing. I plan to use
multiple coats on the sole of the Micro before gluing another layer of
plywood down. But if you're on the US side of the boarder you might want to
check out the good doctor and CPES. Good luck.
jeb, working in well ventilated spaces on the shores of Fundy
Hal,
Beuhler lives in the Pacific NW, where the temperature doesn't favor rot
as much as the rest of the world. He's a believer in big, heavy
construction. I don't think he'd be in favor of a wood/epoxy composite
that's bare on one side.
I, too, have brandished a garden sprayer full of a bilious green
Cuprinol knock-off called 'Copper-Tox' (rot puts me in a vengeful
mood.... and that toxic green stuff probably made me crazier than
necessary, but THAT's another story....). Anyway, never had rot recur
in areas I treated. Did it penetrate? Not very far into anything but
open end grain, but my thinking was it penetrated and concentrated in
areas that would tend to trap moisture and promote rot. I can't believe
it would be a good base for epoxy, as it left a sticky green surface
wherever I applied it. You can tell I liked it when I recollect I was
dreaming of a 30' dip tank tank that I could submerge the boat in ;-)
David Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: Hal Lynch [mailto:hal@...]
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 3:49 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Anti Rot
Beuhler lives in the Pacific NW, where the temperature doesn't favor rot
as much as the rest of the world. He's a believer in big, heavy
construction. I don't think he'd be in favor of a wood/epoxy composite
that's bare on one side.
I, too, have brandished a garden sprayer full of a bilious green
Cuprinol knock-off called 'Copper-Tox' (rot puts me in a vengeful
mood.... and that toxic green stuff probably made me crazier than
necessary, but THAT's another story....). Anyway, never had rot recur
in areas I treated. Did it penetrate? Not very far into anything but
open end grain, but my thinking was it penetrated and concentrated in
areas that would tend to trap moisture and promote rot. I can't believe
it would be a good base for epoxy, as it left a sticky green surface
wherever I applied it. You can tell I liked it when I recollect I was
dreaming of a 30' dip tank tank that I could submerge the boat in ;-)
David Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: Hal Lynch [mailto:hal@...]
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 3:49 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Anti Rot
On Friday, May 17, 2002, at 12:24 PM, futabachan wrote:
> Which brings me to my question: is there some disadvantage to
> soaking wood in these compounds for a fairly lengthy time? It's
> tempting to build a 4'2" x 8"2" x a couple of feet high storage
> tank, store all my plywood in it, and fill it the rest of the
> way up with Dave's cheap homemade antifreeze/borax/boric acid
> compound. But would this hurt the wood somehow, or add a lot
> of weight?
George Beuler (sp) recommends spraying the inside of the
hull with isome kind of *icide (green stuff) all during the
building process paying particular attention to edges and ends.
He uses a garden sprayer (hand pump) and says to spray on enough
that the excess runs into the bilge where it is needed most. He
also is NOT in favor of a barrier coat on the inside of the hull.
He says the wood needs to breath.
I hope I got that correct. Memory ya know.
hal
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On Friday, May 17, 2002, at 12:24 PM, futabachan wrote:
hull with isome kind of *icide (green stuff) all during the
building process paying particular attention to edges and ends.
He uses a garden sprayer (hand pump) and says to spray on enough
that the excess runs into the bilge where it is needed most. He
also is NOT in favor of a barrier coat on the inside of the hull.
He says the wood needs to breath.
I hope I got that correct. Memory ya know.
hal
> Which brings me to my question: is there some disadvantage toGeorge Beuler (sp) recommends spraying the inside of the
> soaking wood in these compounds for a fairly lengthy time? It's
> tempting to build a 4'2" x 8"2" x a couple of feet high storage
> tank, store all my plywood in it, and fill it the rest of the
> way up with Dave's cheap homemade antifreeze/borax/boric acid
> compound. But would this hurt the wood somehow, or add a lot
> of weight?
hull with isome kind of *icide (green stuff) all during the
building process paying particular attention to edges and ends.
He uses a garden sprayer (hand pump) and says to spray on enough
that the excess runs into the bilge where it is needed most. He
also is NOT in favor of a barrier coat on the inside of the hull.
He says the wood needs to breath.
I hope I got that correct. Memory ya know.
hal
> It would upon...both of which are excellent reasons to scrap the whole concept.
> saturation weigh anything up to about 250% of its
> original weight, and there might be some wrikling.
Thanks!
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
Assuming the plywood is waterproof, and almost all of
it is to some degree, the immersion would not
instantly destroy your stock. It would upon
saturation weigh anything up to about 250% of its
original weight, and there might be some wrikling.
You would be subjecting each sheet to some
comsiderable stress, plywood is designed for it , but
it is hard to see the whole thing returning to normal.
Also it would be difficult to get the ply dried out,
it would require a significant area to lay all the ply
out into to allow it a chance to dry properly. I hear
about people vacuum baggin wood to dry it, but I have
not tried that myself. I wouldn't do it just to get a
measure of rot resistance.
______________________________________________________________________
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it is to some degree, the immersion would not
instantly destroy your stock. It would upon
saturation weigh anything up to about 250% of its
original weight, and there might be some wrikling.
You would be subjecting each sheet to some
comsiderable stress, plywood is designed for it , but
it is hard to see the whole thing returning to normal.
Also it would be difficult to get the ply dried out,
it would require a significant area to lay all the ply
out into to allow it a chance to dry properly. I hear
about people vacuum baggin wood to dry it, but I have
not tried that myself. I wouldn't do it just to get a
measure of rot resistance.
______________________________________________________________________
Find, Connect, Date!http://personals.yahoo.ca
> Is there any material that we can use, paint-like, to coat theYou might want to take a look at Dave Carnell's web site -- he
> wood before we epoxy it that will, over time, sink in and kill
> the fungus spores in the wood and still not damage the adhesion
> of epoxy to the wood?
offers a number of suggestions for homemade anti-rot compounds,
including ethylene glycol (antifreeze) and assorted borax/boric
acid compounds, or a combination of the two.
Which brings me to my question: is there some disadvantage to
soaking wood in these compounds for a fairly lengthy time? It's
tempting to build a 4'2" x 8"2" x a couple of feet high storage
tank, store all my plywood in it, and fill it the rest of the
way up with Dave's cheap homemade antifreeze/borax/boric acid
compound. But would this hurt the wood somehow, or add a lot
of weight?
-- Sue --
(kinda busy lately, but planning to cut some Gull parts this weekend)
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
It isn't intended for indoor use. If you intend to
cover it with epoxy, and do that properly, then the
poison shouldn't be necesary. Even better, just use
composite chines. A lot of pressure treated wood is
poor wood to start with. A seperate class of marine
pressure treated would presumably just add expense to
already expensive Marine ply.
Another thought is that if you use nature's marine
grade woods, they are naturaly rot resistant.
A point worth keeping in mind is that if you are using
an epoxy saturation approach, one of the "rules" is
that one use no wood thicker than 3/4". Larger chines
should be built of laminations. This will reduce the
chance of their developing flaws in the capsule.
Now, the question to the class, why can't you buy
marine grade pressure<BR>
treated lumber? Or, why don't we make our boats out of
pressure treated<BR>
plywood instead of ACX fir?<BR>
<BR>
Why are not all boat chine logs and framing timbers
pressure treated wood<BR>
lumber? (mine are!)<BR>
______________________________________________________________________
Find, Connect, Date!http://personals.yahoo.ca
cover it with epoxy, and do that properly, then the
poison shouldn't be necesary. Even better, just use
composite chines. A lot of pressure treated wood is
poor wood to start with. A seperate class of marine
pressure treated would presumably just add expense to
already expensive Marine ply.
Another thought is that if you use nature's marine
grade woods, they are naturaly rot resistant.
A point worth keeping in mind is that if you are using
an epoxy saturation approach, one of the "rules" is
that one use no wood thicker than 3/4". Larger chines
should be built of laminations. This will reduce the
chance of their developing flaws in the capsule.
Now, the question to the class, why can't you buy
marine grade pressure<BR>
treated lumber? Or, why don't we make our boats out of
pressure treated<BR>
plywood instead of ACX fir?<BR>
<BR>
Why are not all boat chine logs and framing timbers
pressure treated wood<BR>
lumber? (mine are!)<BR>
______________________________________________________________________
Find, Connect, Date!http://personals.yahoo.ca
Thanks for the response guys.
That was one of the reasons for the post in the first place. It would be
good to learn if there was an anti fungal with the efficacy of chromated
copper arsenate that could be simply painted on the wood, then covered
with epoxy and which, over a reasonable time, would confer a reasonably
good anti rot protection.
I don't have a pressure vessel to treat each piece of wood after it is
shaped and before it is placed into the boat. Calahan's tin based stuff
from years ago and now illegal by international agreement, did penetrate
phenomenally (along the grain anyway) when simply applied with a brush.
Is there anything now that does? and doesn't give problems with epoxy?
I read the note about using anti freeze against rot but, as I remember,
it also went on to say that the stuff never dried. What I hoped to learn
with my post was whether or not there was anything that might help dry
out the rotted volume, kill the spores and then assist with the
penetration of a low viscosity epoxy filler.
I've never heard of good solutions to either of these problems.
Some old timers used to say the if you boiled your wood before using it
the chances of rot in the future went way down. But that it did make the
wood a bit brittle.
Using pressure treated wood means generating pressure treated sawdust.
Working in an anti contaminant suit with masks and filters takes away
the joy of building the boat.
In the end, I suppose, there is no substitute for good seamanship. Keep
her off the rocks, off the beach, make sure the anchor doesn't bang
against the hull, and don't let anybody else's boat touch yours and rub
away the surface coat. As suggested, a layer of glass embedded in the
epoxy will toughen the surface so that it is harder to damage it.
But....Hurrah for better living through better chemistry! If there is a
way lets find it.
Jim
Richard Spelling wrote:
That was one of the reasons for the post in the first place. It would be
good to learn if there was an anti fungal with the efficacy of chromated
copper arsenate that could be simply painted on the wood, then covered
with epoxy and which, over a reasonable time, would confer a reasonably
good anti rot protection.
I don't have a pressure vessel to treat each piece of wood after it is
shaped and before it is placed into the boat. Calahan's tin based stuff
from years ago and now illegal by international agreement, did penetrate
phenomenally (along the grain anyway) when simply applied with a brush.
Is there anything now that does? and doesn't give problems with epoxy?
I read the note about using anti freeze against rot but, as I remember,
it also went on to say that the stuff never dried. What I hoped to learn
with my post was whether or not there was anything that might help dry
out the rotted volume, kill the spores and then assist with the
penetration of a low viscosity epoxy filler.
I've never heard of good solutions to either of these problems.
Some old timers used to say the if you boiled your wood before using it
the chances of rot in the future went way down. But that it did make the
wood a bit brittle.
Using pressure treated wood means generating pressure treated sawdust.
Working in an anti contaminant suit with masks and filters takes away
the joy of building the boat.
In the end, I suppose, there is no substitute for good seamanship. Keep
her off the rocks, off the beach, make sure the anchor doesn't bang
against the hull, and don't let anybody else's boat touch yours and rub
away the surface coat. As suggested, a layer of glass embedded in the
epoxy will toughen the surface so that it is harder to damage it.
But....Hurrah for better living through better chemistry! If there is a
way lets find it.
Jim
Richard Spelling wrote:
> Sure, chromated copper arsenate. Apply under pressure to force intoADVERTISEMENT
> the
> wood. You would then call your wood "pressure treated".
>
> Now, the question to the class, why can't you buy marine grade
> pressure
> treated lumber? Or, why don't we make our boats out of pressure
> treated
> plywood instead of ACX fir?
>
> Why are not all boat chine logs and framing timbers pressure treated
> wood
> lumber? (mine are!)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Pope" <jpope@...>
> To: "bolger@egroups.com" <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2002 9:24 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Anti Rot
>
>
> | One of the reasons we coat everything with epoxy is to keep the wood
> dry
> | and thus prevent rot.
> | Life is not perfect, however, and a certain watchfulness is
> necessary to
> | keep the sealing coat intact. The price for missing the crack or the
>
> | scratch is water in the wood and, in the heat of the summer, rot.
> Fixing
> | rot means surgery.
> | Or does it?
> | This is an appeal to the chemists and biologists in the group. Is
> there
> | any material that we can use, paint-like, to coat the wood before we
>
> | epoxy it that will, over time, sink in and kill the fungus spores
> in
> | the wood and still not damage the adhesion of epoxy to the wood?
> | Is there anything that we can slather onto rotted wood that will
> kill
> | the rot and allow us the opportunity to use low viscosity epoxy like
> Git
> | Rot to rebuild the strength in the rotted wood without performing
> | surgery on the boat's structure?
> | Jim
> |
> |
> |
> |
> | Bolger rules!!!
> | - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> | - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> | - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
> like
> | - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
> MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> | - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> |
> | Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> |
> |
> |
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
"Why are not all boat chine logs and framing timbers pressure
treated wood lumber?"
Are you speaking about wolmanized wood?
treated wood lumber?"
Are you speaking about wolmanized wood?
--- In bolger@y..., "Richard Spelling" <richard@c...> wrote:
> Sure, chromated copper arsenate. Apply under pressure to force
into the
> wood. You would then call your wood "pressure treated".
>
> Now, the question to the class, why can't you buy marine grade
pressure
> treated lumber? Or, why don't we make our boats out of pressure
treated
> plywood instead of ACX fir?
>
> Why are not all boat chine logs and framing timbers pressure
treated wood
> lumber? (mine are!)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Pope" <jpope@a...>
> To: "bolger@e..." <bolger@y...>
> Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2002 9:24 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Anti Rot
>
>
> | One of the reasons we coat everything with epoxy is to keep the
wood dry
> | and thus prevent rot.
> | Life is not perfect, however, and a certain watchfulness is
necessary to
> | keep the sealing coat intact. The price for missing the crack or
the
> | scratch is water in the wood and, in the heat of the summer,
rot. Fixing
> | rot means surgery.
> | Or does it?
> | This is an appeal to the chemists and biologists in the group.
Is there
> | any material that we can use, paint-like, to coat the wood
before we
> | epoxy it that will, over time, sink in and kill the fungus
spores in
> | the wood and still not damage the adhesion of epoxy to the wood?
> | Is there anything that we can slather onto rotted wood that will
kill
> | the rot and allow us the opportunity to use low viscosity epoxy
like Git
> | Rot to rebuild the strength in the rotted wood without performing
> | surgery on the boat's structure?
> | Jim
> |
> |
> |
> |
> | Bolger rules!!!
> | - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
horses
> | - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> | - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
like
> | - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> | - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> |
> | Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> |
> |
> |
Sure, chromated copper arsenate. Apply under pressure to force into the
wood. You would then call your wood "pressure treated".
Now, the question to the class, why can't you buy marine grade pressure
treated lumber? Or, why don't we make our boats out of pressure treated
plywood instead of ACX fir?
Why are not all boat chine logs and framing timbers pressure treated wood
lumber? (mine are!)
wood. You would then call your wood "pressure treated".
Now, the question to the class, why can't you buy marine grade pressure
treated lumber? Or, why don't we make our boats out of pressure treated
plywood instead of ACX fir?
Why are not all boat chine logs and framing timbers pressure treated wood
lumber? (mine are!)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Pope" <jpope@...>
To: "bolger@egroups.com" <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2002 9:24 PM
Subject: [bolger] Anti Rot
| One of the reasons we coat everything with epoxy is to keep the wood dry
| and thus prevent rot.
| Life is not perfect, however, and a certain watchfulness is necessary to
| keep the sealing coat intact. The price for missing the crack or the
| scratch is water in the wood and, in the heat of the summer, rot. Fixing
| rot means surgery.
| Or does it?
| This is an appeal to the chemists and biologists in the group. Is there
| any material that we can use, paint-like, to coat the wood before we
| epoxy it that will, over time, sink in and kill the fungus spores in
| the wood and still not damage the adhesion of epoxy to the wood?
| Is there anything that we can slather onto rotted wood that will kill
| the rot and allow us the opportunity to use low viscosity epoxy like Git
| Rot to rebuild the strength in the rotted wood without performing
| surgery on the boat's structure?
| Jim
|
|
|
|
| Bolger rules!!!
| - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
| - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
| - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
| - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
| - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
|
| Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
|
|
|
Those penetrating epoxies may work with a collum or
something like that that is under compresion, but I
wouldn't trust it for a structure under tension.
Carnel has some stuff on his site about so anti-rot
thing. Anti freeze or something.
If you worry about penetration of the epoxy coating,
sheath it with glass. Not perfect, but much tougher
than epoxy by itself.
--- Jim Pope <jpope@...> wrote:
<HR>
<html><body>
<tt>
One of the reasons we coat everything with epoxy is to
keep the wood dry<BR>
and thus prevent rot.<BR>
Life is not perfect, however, and a certain
watchfulness is necessary to<BR>
keep the sealing coat intact. The price for missing
the crack or the<BR>
scratch is water in the wood and, in the heat of the
summer, rot. Fixing<BR>
rot means surgery.<BR>
Or does it?<BR>
This is an appeal to the chemists and biologists in
the group. Is there<BR>
any material that we can use, paint-like, to coat the
wood before we<BR>
epoxy it that will, over time, sink in and kill
the fungus spores in<BR>
the wood and still not damage the adhesion of epoxy to
the wood?<BR>
Is there anything that we can slather onto rotted wood
that will kill<BR>
the rot and allow us the opportunity to use low
viscosity epoxy like Git<BR>
Rot to rebuild the strength in the rotted wood without
performing<BR>
surgery on the boat's structure?<BR>
Jim<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</tt>
<br>
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Bolger rules!!!<BR>
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging
dead horses<BR>
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on
topic, and punctuate<BR>
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts,
snip all you like<BR>
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349<BR>
- Unsubscribe:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com</tt>
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</br>
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______________________________________________________________________
Find, Connect, Date!http://personals.yahoo.ca
something like that that is under compresion, but I
wouldn't trust it for a structure under tension.
Carnel has some stuff on his site about so anti-rot
thing. Anti freeze or something.
If you worry about penetration of the epoxy coating,
sheath it with glass. Not perfect, but much tougher
than epoxy by itself.
--- Jim Pope <jpope@...> wrote:
<HR>
<html><body>
<tt>
One of the reasons we coat everything with epoxy is to
keep the wood dry<BR>
and thus prevent rot.<BR>
Life is not perfect, however, and a certain
watchfulness is necessary to<BR>
keep the sealing coat intact. The price for missing
the crack or the<BR>
scratch is water in the wood and, in the heat of the
summer, rot. Fixing<BR>
rot means surgery.<BR>
Or does it?<BR>
This is an appeal to the chemists and biologists in
the group. Is there<BR>
any material that we can use, paint-like, to coat the
wood before we<BR>
epoxy it that will, over time, sink in and kill
the fungus spores in<BR>
the wood and still not damage the adhesion of epoxy to
the wood?<BR>
Is there anything that we can slather onto rotted wood
that will kill<BR>
the rot and allow us the opportunity to use low
viscosity epoxy like Git<BR>
Rot to rebuild the strength in the rotted wood without
performing<BR>
surgery on the boat's structure?<BR>
Jim<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</tt>
<br>
<!-- |**|begin egp html banner|**| -->
<table border=0 cellspacing=0 cellpadding=2>
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<td align=center><font size="-1"
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<br>
<tt>
Bolger rules!!!<BR>
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging
dead horses<BR>
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on
topic, and punctuate<BR>
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts,
snip all you like<BR>
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349<BR>
- Unsubscribe:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com</tt>
<br>
<br>
<tt>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the <a
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</br>
</body></html>
______________________________________________________________________
Find, Connect, Date!http://personals.yahoo.ca
One of the reasons we coat everything with epoxy is to keep the wood dry
and thus prevent rot.
Life is not perfect, however, and a certain watchfulness is necessary to
keep the sealing coat intact. The price for missing the crack or the
scratch is water in the wood and, in the heat of the summer, rot. Fixing
rot means surgery.
Or does it?
This is an appeal to the chemists and biologists in the group. Is there
any material that we can use, paint-like, to coat the wood before we
epoxy it that will, over time, sink in and kill the fungus spores in
the wood and still not damage the adhesion of epoxy to the wood?
Is there anything that we can slather onto rotted wood that will kill
the rot and allow us the opportunity to use low viscosity epoxy like Git
Rot to rebuild the strength in the rotted wood without performing
surgery on the boat's structure?
Jim
and thus prevent rot.
Life is not perfect, however, and a certain watchfulness is necessary to
keep the sealing coat intact. The price for missing the crack or the
scratch is water in the wood and, in the heat of the summer, rot. Fixing
rot means surgery.
Or does it?
This is an appeal to the chemists and biologists in the group. Is there
any material that we can use, paint-like, to coat the wood before we
epoxy it that will, over time, sink in and kill the fungus spores in
the wood and still not damage the adhesion of epoxy to the wood?
Is there anything that we can slather onto rotted wood that will kill
the rot and allow us the opportunity to use low viscosity epoxy like Git
Rot to rebuild the strength in the rotted wood without performing
surgery on the boat's structure?
Jim