Re: [bolger] Re: Windsprint Trimaran On the Water
I hear you. The USCG on the other hand did accept
certification of his charter cats using non-marine ply
in a cylinder mold approach. That was a while ago.
Whether builder still do that to save a few bucks on
cats that the lives of dozens of tourists depend on, I
don't know. But it proves the method is safe enough
financialy and otherwise for the home builder.
I also agree with you about the sails, but if you
build a good platform, it will probably sail pretty
nicely with polytarp sails also. One thing though is
that a lot of his small boats are designed around
already existing sails. My 24' foot uses a Hobbie 18
sail rig. It is a lot easier to pick up one of those
cheap, than get your local sail loft to spit out a
decent dipping lug rig. My whole rig cost about 600
us, sails, spar rotating gear, second hand. I have
seen complet Hobbies in the US for as little as 300
bucks.
His plans are now steep. I bought several of his
designs back when his 24' was 200 bucks. I still
think that anyone who could find the 400 would get
their money's worth in an education, there were
hundreds of pages in the plan set, and the resale.
--- Mark Albanese <marka@...> wrote:
<> <BR>
<BR>
Not to mention plans at $400 @.<BR>
</tt>
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certification of his charter cats using non-marine ply
in a cylinder mold approach. That was a while ago.
Whether builder still do that to save a few bucks on
cats that the lives of dozens of tourists depend on, I
don't know. But it proves the method is safe enough
financialy and otherwise for the home builder.
I also agree with you about the sails, but if you
build a good platform, it will probably sail pretty
nicely with polytarp sails also. One thing though is
that a lot of his small boats are designed around
already existing sails. My 24' foot uses a Hobbie 18
sail rig. It is a lot easier to pick up one of those
cheap, than get your local sail loft to spit out a
decent dipping lug rig. My whole rig cost about 600
us, sails, spar rotating gear, second hand. I have
seen complet Hobbies in the US for as little as 300
bucks.
His plans are now steep. I bought several of his
designs back when his 24' was 200 bucks. I still
think that anyone who could find the 400 would get
their money's worth in an education, there were
hundreds of pages in the plan set, and the resale.
--- Mark Albanese <marka@...> wrote:
<> <BR>
> I have no arguement with the assertion that KurtHuges knows what he<BR>
> is doing, but I have some doubt whether it's goodpolicy to buy the<BR>
> expensive rig and sails for a boat built withjunk plywood.<BR>
<BR>
Not to mention plans at $400 @.<BR>
</tt>
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Garth,
Have just done a quick scan - looks interesting.
Thanks.
Andrew.
You can view a model of Trilars here:
href="http://homepages.apci.net/~michalak/15apr02.htm">http://homepages.apci.net/~michalak/15apr02.htm</a><BR>
at the bottom of the page.
I don't think a full-sized one has been built yet.
Mine may not be
done till the end of the summer. First I'm making a
plain old
Larsboat for my fire department to raffle off as a
fundraiser. That's
half done. Then comes a whole nother Larsboat, and all
the amas,
akas, pivoting leeboard, etc. My spare time is nearly
zero these
days. It's going to be a while . . .
All best,
Garth<BR>
http://www.sold.com.au- The Sold.com.au Big Brand Sale
- New PCs, notebooks, digital cameras, phones and more ... Sale ends June 12
Have just done a quick scan - looks interesting.
Thanks.
Andrew.
You can view a model of Trilars here:
href="http://homepages.apci.net/~michalak/15apr02.htm">http://homepages.apci.net/~michalak/15apr02.htm</a><BR>
at the bottom of the page.
I don't think a full-sized one has been built yet.
Mine may not be
done till the end of the summer. First I'm making a
plain old
Larsboat for my fire department to raffle off as a
fundraiser. That's
half done. Then comes a whole nother Larsboat, and all
the amas,
akas, pivoting leeboard, etc. My spare time is nearly
zero these
days. It's going to be a while . . .
All best,
Garth<BR>
http://www.sold.com.au- The Sold.com.au Big Brand Sale
- New PCs, notebooks, digital cameras, phones and more ... Sale ends June 12
pvanderwaart wrote:
>Not to mention plans at $400 @.
> I have no arguement with the assertion that Kurt Huges knows what he
> is doing, but I have some doubt whether it's good policy to buy the
> expensive rig and sails for a boat built with junk plywood.
I have no arguement with the assertion that Kurt Huges knows what he
is doing, but I have some doubt whether it's good policy to buy the
expensive rig and sails for a boat built with junk plywood.
is doing, but I have some doubt whether it's good policy to buy the
expensive rig and sails for a boat built with junk plywood.
--- In bolger@y..., thomas dalzell <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
> How about something like this:
>
>http://www.multihulldesigns.com/stock/16tri.html
>
> Increadibly fun, fast cheap building strategies. Junk
> plywood. 1 less chine to tape, fully curved sections
> where they should be. Oh... something else: He
> actualy knows what he is doing...
>
How about something like this:
http://www.multihulldesigns.com/stock/16tri.html
Increadibly fun, fast cheap building strategies. Junk
plywood. 1 less chine to tape, fully curved sections
where they should be. Oh... something else: He
actualy knows what he is doing...
______________________________________________________________________
Find, Connect, Date!http://personals.yahoo.ca
http://www.multihulldesigns.com/stock/16tri.html
Increadibly fun, fast cheap building strategies. Junk
plywood. 1 less chine to tape, fully curved sections
where they should be. Oh... something else: He
actualy knows what he is doing...
______________________________________________________________________
Find, Connect, Date!http://personals.yahoo.ca
Andrew --
You can view a model of Trilars here:
http://homepages.apci.net/~michalak/15apr02.htm
at the bottom of the page.
I don't think a full-sized one has been built yet. Mine may not be
done till the end of the summer. First I'm making a plain old
Larsboat for my fire department to raffle off as a fundraiser. That's
half done. Then comes a whole nother Larsboat, and all the amas,
akas, pivoting leeboard, etc. My spare time is nearly zero these
days. It's going to be a while . . .
All best,
Garth
You can view a model of Trilars here:
http://homepages.apci.net/~michalak/15apr02.htm
at the bottom of the page.
I don't think a full-sized one has been built yet. Mine may not be
done till the end of the summer. First I'm making a plain old
Larsboat for my fire department to raffle off as a fundraiser. That's
half done. Then comes a whole nother Larsboat, and all the amas,
akas, pivoting leeboard, etc. My spare time is nearly zero these
days. It's going to be a while . . .
All best,
Garth
It is a design spiral - So why am I dizzy?
Well that's a lot of stuff, and it would be simpler
not to go there. I am going to leave the issues about
leeway prevention aside, since that is what
daggerboards are for, unless they are not, or not
there.
You can't (take that) them so that they will have a
level waterline when the boat is heeled, and when you
Kant them (the angle of which depends on all sorts of
issue), there is a tendency for them to work as if the
beam at front were wider than the beam at back,
because of the amas shape, usualy deeper forward. So
they get toed in. I think on my 19' beam, the toe in
was 2" a side for about 5-7 deg.
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Well that's a lot of stuff, and it would be simpler
not to go there. I am going to leave the issues about
leeway prevention aside, since that is what
daggerboards are for, unless they are not, or not
there.
You can't (take that) them so that they will have a
level waterline when the boat is heeled, and when you
Kant them (the angle of which depends on all sorts of
issue), there is a tendency for them to work as if the
beam at front were wider than the beam at back,
because of the amas shape, usualy deeper forward. So
they get toed in. I think on my 19' beam, the toe in
was 2" a side for about 5-7 deg.
______________________________________________________________________
Find, Connect, Date!http://personals.yahoo.ca
Hello Garth,
I'm curious about the Michalak 'Larsboat' trimaran -
never heard of it. Where can I get more information on
it?
Thanks,
Andrew Wallace.
I'm working on a Michalak 'Larsboat' trimaran. The
plans don't <BR>
indicate anything about canting the amas or toeing
them in at the <BR>
front. Can you give details about what's optimum?
All best,
Garth
http://travel.yahoo.com.au- Yahoo! Travel
- Plan and book your dream holiday online!
I'm curious about the Michalak 'Larsboat' trimaran -
never heard of it. Where can I get more information on
it?
Thanks,
Andrew Wallace.
I'm working on a Michalak 'Larsboat' trimaran. The
plans don't <BR>
indicate anything about canting the amas or toeing
them in at the <BR>
front. Can you give details about what's optimum?
All best,
Garth
http://travel.yahoo.com.au- Yahoo! Travel
- Plan and book your dream holiday online!
It's now a time honored internet tradition to send first and then
check spelling, sense, etc.
I should think you WOULDN'T want to toe in amas, and might actually
want to toe them out. A daggerboard or centerboard or leeboard is
going to be much more efficient at generating side force without a lot
of drag, so we want to point amas in actual direction of travel, don't
we? If you have to generate side force with amas, you'll probably have
lots of drag and leeway. If the board isn't big enough, make it
bigger. Things like amas and hulls need much larger angles of leeway
to generate lift (i.e. side force) than a board does, so they won't
work together.
check spelling, sense, etc.
I should think you WOULDN'T want to toe in amas, and might actually
want to toe them out. A daggerboard or centerboard or leeboard is
going to be much more efficient at generating side force without a lot
of drag, so we want to point amas in actual direction of travel, don't
we? If you have to generate side force with amas, you'll probably have
lots of drag and leeway. If the board isn't big enough, make it
bigger. Things like amas and hulls need much larger angles of leeway
to generate lift (i.e. side force) than a board does, so they won't
work together.
--- In bolger@y..., "Nickerson, Bruce " <nickerb@p...> wrote:
> How does one cannot amas, to be distinguished from Kant or cant?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: thomas dalzell [mailto:proaconstrictor@y...]
snip
>
> Did you can't the amas, and toe them in at the front?
> A sneaky little detail.
>
> snip
How does one cannot amas, to be distinguished from Kant or cant?
-----Original Message-----
From: thomas dalzell [mailto:proaconstrictor@...]
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 11:19 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Windsprint Trimaran On the Water
Did you can't the amas, and toe them in at the front?
A sneaky little detail.
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-----Original Message-----
From: thomas dalzell [mailto:proaconstrictor@...]
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 11:19 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Windsprint Trimaran On the Water
Did you can't the amas, and toe them in at the front?
A sneaky little detail.
______________________________________________________________________
Find, Connect, Date!http://personals.yahoo.ca<http://personals.yahoo.ca>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- In bolger@y..., thomas dalzell <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
indicate anything about canting the amas or toeing them in at the
front. Can you give details about what's optimum?
All best,
Garth
> Did you can't the amas, and toe them in at the front?I'm working on a Michalak 'Larsboat' trimaran. The plans don't
> A sneaky little detail.
>
indicate anything about canting the amas or toeing them in at the
front. Can you give details about what's optimum?
All best,
Garth
Did you can't the amas, and toe them in at the front?
A sneaky little detail.
______________________________________________________________________
Find, Connect, Date!http://personals.yahoo.ca
A sneaky little detail.
______________________________________________________________________
Find, Connect, Date!http://personals.yahoo.ca
Yesterday, Memorial Day, I got my Windsprint trimaran out on the water for a
trial.
Long story short, she is stable, maneuverable and fast! I got out on the lake
a few blocks from my house just before a storm front came through and
freshened the breeze. At one point I was just boiling along. Amazing.
The down side is that the strain on the connection of the akas (arms) to the
amas (floats) is vulnerable. I have hairline separation between the deck and
the gunwales on the port side only. Go figure?
I also had water in both amas but I suspect that was from the rain last night
seeping through the bolt holes. I 'm going to switch to lashing the amas to
the akas just as I have to the main hull.
I will be getting pictures soon and sending an article in to Duckworks soon.
Mike Masten
trial.
Long story short, she is stable, maneuverable and fast! I got out on the lake
a few blocks from my house just before a storm front came through and
freshened the breeze. At one point I was just boiling along. Amazing.
The down side is that the strain on the connection of the akas (arms) to the
amas (floats) is vulnerable. I have hairline separation between the deck and
the gunwales on the port side only. Go figure?
I also had water in both amas but I suspect that was from the rain last night
seeping through the bolt holes. I 'm going to switch to lashing the amas to
the akas just as I have to the main hull.
I will be getting pictures soon and sending an article in to Duckworks soon.
Mike Masten