Re: Oar locks vs. Teal
> > THere are also oarlock/socketdon't
> > combinations which do something similar without a chain, but I
> > remember exactly how they work.That is how I got into trouble with my locks. I trusted that system,
>
which engages in one 180 deg rotation, but not the other. Rusult was
that after a few oar pops, who was paying attention to the
orientation, the whole thing poped out and made like it was fleeing
depth charges...
I did it myself, which was a little embarassing, but someone else
would have done it sooner or later. Mine are now tied in. Only bad
part was I couldn't get the same again, and had to repalce all 4.
> Put a 6" chain or string on the bottom of the oarlock (using thatOn my daughter's aluminum teal, I used cheap plastic (nylon?) oarlocks because of corrosion concerns - open horns, of course - with plastic whistles on the other end of the string. Never forget where your whistle is...
> convenient little hole), and tie on a narrow crosspiece by it's
> middle. I use a 3" long piece of stiff steel wire with a loop in the
> middle. Drop the crosspiece thru the oarlock socket, then put in the
> oarlock.
> THere are also oarlock/socketDavis oarlocks fold down, and never get lost. If you car-top a lot, you'll want to rig a bungee cord to keep them from flopping around. I did manage to bend one; it was frozen solid into the ground when I went to flip the boat upright...
> combinations which do something similar without a chain, but I don't
> remember exactly how they work.
Very nice descriptions athttp://www.openwater.com/Boatshow/oarlock_special_report/oarlocks.htm.
Curtis
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Put a 6" chain or string on the bottom of the oarlock (using that
convenient little hole), and tie on a narrow crosspiece by it's
middle. I use a 3" long piece of stiff steel wire with a loop in the
middle. Drop the crosspiece thru the oarlock socket, then put in the
oarlock. WHen sailing, you just pull up the lock and drop it inside
the boat. The oarlocks will dangle there, out of the way but retained,
until you need to use them again. THere are also oarlock/socket
combinations which do something similar without a chain, but I don't
remember exactly how they work.
convenient little hole), and tie on a narrow crosspiece by it's
middle. I use a 3" long piece of stiff steel wire with a loop in the
middle. Drop the crosspiece thru the oarlock socket, then put in the
oarlock. WHen sailing, you just pull up the lock and drop it inside
the boat. The oarlocks will dangle there, out of the way but retained,
until you need to use them again. THere are also oarlock/socket
combinations which do something similar without a chain, but I don't
remember exactly how they work.
--- In bolger@y..., "pauldayau" <wattleweedooseeds@b...> wrote:
snip
> I started with Ushaped rowlocks in our June bug but found if i
left
> them in whilst sailing the would tangle the sheets.
snip
> Chers Paul
--- In bolger@y..., StepHydro@a... wrote:
them in whilst sailing the would tangle the sheets.
in the end they were replaced with a 1 1/2x 3/4wooden stick with 2
holes for a rope to hold the oar. By leathering the stick with
leatherfrom a handbag we didnt need any leathers on the oars It was
also a good place to brace the sheetrope.
Chers Paul
> In a message dated 06/12/2002 1:<BR22:<BR35 PMI started with Ushaped rowlocks in our June bug but found if i left
> Eastern Daylight , bolger@y... writes:
> > Oar locks vs. Teal
> >
> > I have reached that point in my Teal build where I can consider
> > Propulsion. I plan on both rowing and sailing. What is the
> > wisdom of the group with respect to oar locks? "O" shape or "U"
> > shape? What else do I need to know?
>
them in whilst sailing the would tangle the sheets.
in the end they were replaced with a 1 1/2x 3/4wooden stick with 2
holes for a rope to hold the oar. By leathering the stick with
leatherfrom a handbag we didnt need any leathers on the oars It was
also a good place to brace the sheetrope.
Chers Paul
I think you will find the drawing in the "Spur II" Chapter in BWAOM.
Bjørn
Bjørn
--- In bolger@y..., "pvanderwaart" <pvanderw@o...> wrote:
> > Bolger shows a pattern for oarlocks like this in his great essay
on
> > rowing which I think appears in "Small Boats". Anyone know if
these
> > are still available?
>
> It seems to me that somewhere he had a design for a rather plain,
> home made lock on a similar geometry. Can't remember where.... The
> idea was a simple post with a metal band for a bail to keep the oar
> in place.
> Bolger shows a pattern for oarlocks like this in his great essay onIt seems to me that somewhere he had a design for a rather plain,
> rowing which I think appears in "Small Boats". Anyone know if these
> are still available?
home made lock on a similar geometry. Can't remember where.... The
idea was a simple post with a metal band for a bail to keep the oar
in place.
Bolger shows a pattern for oarlocks like this in his great essay on
rowing which I think appears in "Small Boats". Anyone know if these
are still available?
rowing which I think appears in "Small Boats". Anyone know if these
are still available?
--- In bolger@y..., StepHydro@a... wrote:
snip
>
> There is another shape that I use and I think they are supeerior to
either of
> the above.
>
> The sahpe of the horns is similar to a squared-off U, and the pin
extends
> down from the for'd horn of the U. The advantage of this style is
that the
> contact patch of the oar's loom is very close to the pivot axis of
the
> rowlock, preventing "Creep" during the stroke. snip
>
> These have been advertised in WB for decades, though I haven't
checked
> lately. My pair is nearly 25 years old now.
>
snip
I would take the "O" shaped oarlocks any day, as the oars can't jump out and
if you need to pull the oar out in a hurry, you just lift the oarlock
straight up.
Stuart Crawford
New Zealand
if you need to pull the oar out in a hurry, you just lift the oarlock
straight up.
Stuart Crawford
New Zealand
>
> There is one bad thing about "O" shaped oarlocks: If you need to get
> your oars out of the locks in a hurry, you can't. I tend to use my
> boat in situations where this sometimes is important. Your milage may
> vary.
>
> -D
In a message dated 06/12/2002 1:<BR22:<BR35 PM
Eastern Daylight ,bolger@yahoogroups.comwrites:
the above.
The sahpe of the horns is similar to a squared-off U, and the pin extends
down from the for'd horn of the U. The advantage of this style is that the
contact patch of the oar's loom is very close to the pivot axis of the
rowlock, preventing "Creep" during the stroke. A potential advantage for
those who build their own oars.... If you make the portion of the loom that
runs in the lock as a square cross-section, rounded on the corners, then
registration of the oar is exact, both on the feather and on the stroke. One
can angle the stroke surface of the loom a bit off square to give just a bit
of back angle which will make the catch of the stroke more positive. I hope
that I'm making this clear, though I fear otherwise :-)
These have been advertised in WB for decades, though I haven't checked
lately. My pair is nearly 25 years old now.
Finally, in BWAOM, Phil shows, near the front of the book, a homemade lock
that looks, functionally, like a dynamite design, though it is a bit
dodgy-looking from the aesthetic POV.
Cheers/Carron
Eastern Daylight ,bolger@yahoogroups.comwrites:
> Oar locks vs. TealThere is another shape that I use and I think they are supeerior to either of
>
> I have reached that point in my Teal build where I can consider
> Propulsion. I plan on both rowing and sailing. What is the
> wisdom of the group with respect to oar locks? "O" shape or "U"
> shape? What else do I need to know?
the above.
The sahpe of the horns is similar to a squared-off U, and the pin extends
down from the for'd horn of the U. The advantage of this style is that the
contact patch of the oar's loom is very close to the pivot axis of the
rowlock, preventing "Creep" during the stroke. A potential advantage for
those who build their own oars.... If you make the portion of the loom that
runs in the lock as a square cross-section, rounded on the corners, then
registration of the oar is exact, both on the feather and on the stroke. One
can angle the stroke surface of the loom a bit off square to give just a bit
of back angle which will make the catch of the stroke more positive. I hope
that I'm making this clear, though I fear otherwise :-)
These have been advertised in WB for decades, though I haven't checked
lately. My pair is nearly 25 years old now.
Finally, in BWAOM, Phil shows, near the front of the book, a homemade lock
that looks, functionally, like a dynamite design, though it is a bit
dodgy-looking from the aesthetic POV.
Cheers/Carron
Hope I have the terminlology right or that someone will correct me. I
have had good luck with those cheesy all-zinc lock sockets and locks,
tho I suppose they'll need to be replaced in a few years. I've also
had good luck with 5/8" ID galvanized steel lock sockets with nylon
inserts pounded in to bush them down to 1/2". There's a size of brass
pipe that fits the 1/2" locks well, in case you want to make pretty
wood oarlock sockets with the pipe inside. I like the open locks.
Instead of leathers, our oars are tightly wrapped with varnished nylon
mason's twine (we managed to find a kind of gold/brown color) to
prevent chafe per Jim Michalak's idea. THis seems to be better than
anything else I've seen for the purpose as the amount of friction is
about right, it looks good, and doesn't seem to wear out very fast.
We also use Michalak's idea of a couple of wraps of small shock cord
for "buttons". I think Michalak's oar articles may be found at:
www.apci.net/~michalak or some such.
BTW, the Teal is reasonably pleasant to row. Do the oars first so you
can miss less of the boating season.
have had good luck with those cheesy all-zinc lock sockets and locks,
tho I suppose they'll need to be replaced in a few years. I've also
had good luck with 5/8" ID galvanized steel lock sockets with nylon
inserts pounded in to bush them down to 1/2". There's a size of brass
pipe that fits the 1/2" locks well, in case you want to make pretty
wood oarlock sockets with the pipe inside. I like the open locks.
Instead of leathers, our oars are tightly wrapped with varnished nylon
mason's twine (we managed to find a kind of gold/brown color) to
prevent chafe per Jim Michalak's idea. THis seems to be better than
anything else I've seen for the purpose as the amount of friction is
about right, it looks good, and doesn't seem to wear out very fast.
We also use Michalak's idea of a couple of wraps of small shock cord
for "buttons". I think Michalak's oar articles may be found at:
www.apci.net/~michalak or some such.
BTW, the Teal is reasonably pleasant to row. Do the oars first so you
can miss less of the boating season.
--- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
> I have a Teal and am *very* happy it's rigged for both sailing and
rowing.
>
> There is one bad thing about "O" shaped oarlocks: If you need to get
> your oars out of the locks in a hurry, you can't. I tend to use my
> boat in situations where this sometimes is important. Your milage
may
> vary.
>
> -D
>
>
> >I have reached that point in my Teal build where I can consider
> >Propulsion. I plan on both rowing and sailing. What is the
> >wisdom of the group with respect to oar locks? "O" shape or "U"
> >shape? What else do I need to know?
> >
> >hal
> >
"O" shape or "U"
plastic locks. For the brand I have, I prefer the "O" since it seems
stronger, and I lost an early U pair when one impertinently popped up
and fell in the water. It depends on how well the boat really fits
you. Depending on one's size. it is possible to get in one of these
boats and find that the proper stroke lifts the oar up a little, and
the "O" will stop the oar popping out. But if the boat, oars etc...
are all fine, and you are using quality locks, then I have had good
results with the "U", and they are much handier for shipping the oar
and so forth.
In "Small Boats" PCB discusses rowing, and seems to favour either
pins, with a loop of rope, or "U" locks of various forms. He may
have changed his mind in the last long while.
> shape? What else do I need to know?I have used both with some satisfaction. On my elegant punt, I have
>
> hal
plastic locks. For the brand I have, I prefer the "O" since it seems
stronger, and I lost an early U pair when one impertinently popped up
and fell in the water. It depends on how well the boat really fits
you. Depending on one's size. it is possible to get in one of these
boats and find that the proper stroke lifts the oar up a little, and
the "O" will stop the oar popping out. But if the boat, oars etc...
are all fine, and you are using quality locks, then I have had good
results with the "U", and they are much handier for shipping the oar
and so forth.
In "Small Boats" PCB discusses rowing, and seems to favour either
pins, with a loop of rope, or "U" locks of various forms. He may
have changed his mind in the last long while.
I have a Teal and am *very* happy it's rigged for both sailing and rowing.
There is one bad thing about "O" shaped oarlocks: If you need to get
your oars out of the locks in a hurry, you can't. I tend to use my
boat in situations where this sometimes is important. Your milage may
vary.
-D
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
There is one bad thing about "O" shaped oarlocks: If you need to get
your oars out of the locks in a hurry, you can't. I tend to use my
boat in situations where this sometimes is important. Your milage may
vary.
-D
>I have reached that point in my Teal build where I can considerC.E.P.
>Propulsion. I plan on both rowing and sailing. What is the
>wisdom of the group with respect to oar locks? "O" shape or "U"
>shape? What else do I need to know?
>
>hal
>
>
>
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415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
On Wed, 12 Jun 2002, Hal Lynch wrote:
I'd buy Wilcox-Crittenden (from Jamestown Distributors). They cost a few
buck more, but they look and feel and work great. Bronze, paint,
varnish--a great combination.
> I have reached that point in my Teal build where I can considerI like the look and use of the O's. They cost more. They are attractive.
> Propulsion. I plan on both rowing and sailing. What is the wisdom of
> the group with respect to oar locks? "O" shape or "U" shape? What
> else do I need to know?
I'd buy Wilcox-Crittenden (from Jamestown Distributors). They cost a few
buck more, but they look and feel and work great. Bronze, paint,
varnish--a great combination.
I have reached that point in my Teal build where I can consider
Propulsion. I plan on both rowing and sailing. What is the
wisdom of the group with respect to oar locks? "O" shape or "U"
shape? What else do I need to know?
hal
Propulsion. I plan on both rowing and sailing. What is the
wisdom of the group with respect to oar locks? "O" shape or "U"
shape? What else do I need to know?
hal