Re: hull fairing

I used 410 microlight compound from WEST on my Micro. It works like
David R. reported. I am quite happy with the results. Can't wait to
paint! It is ridiculously expensive, but nothing in relationship to
sails and blocks!

David Jost
Diatomatious earth is way cheap at pool supply places, 11 bucks for
25 lbs which is a lot of the stuff.

It is much like white flour and flies all over the place, not toxic
at all but is not good to breathe. Masks, respirators should be worn.


--- In bolger@y..., "proaconstrictor" <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
> --- In bolger@y..., "lulalake_1999" <lulalake_1999@y...> wrote:
> > And speaking of fairing fillers, Has anybody used diatomatious
> earth
> > as a fairing compound filler?
> >
> > It has much the same feel as talc, is cheaper and way more
> available
> > ( Known as "DE" in pool maintenance supplies, gardening supply
> > houses, pet supply houses) . I'm going to pick up some today and
> > experiment with it.
> >
> > Jules
> >
> > , DE
>
>
> Here is a quote from one of the Sneakeasy builders:
>
> Sneakeasy
> 26 feet long with a 4 foot beam
> This is a design by Phil Bolger of Gloucester, MA.
> Constuction is straight forward plywood, 1/2" bottom, 1/4" sides.
I
> tried to bend 1/4" fir plywood to the specified radius for the deck
> but
> substituted two layers of 1/8" mahogany doorskins instead. All
> exterior
> surfaces were covered with 9 oz. fiberglass cloth using System
Three
> epoxy resin. Where a thickener was required for fillets and
filling
> the
> weave of the sheathing, diatomite and milled fiberglass was used.
> Diatomite is swimming pool filter media. The basic hull and deck ,
> glassed and painted, weighed 475 lbs.
>
>
>
> My only comment is to consider not just what the powder costs, but
> what yield you get. I get enourmous yield from 410, in the 3-5
times
> epoxy volume range. It costs a lot, but epoxy wise it robably
works
> out even, depending on what grade of epox you are using.
>
> One thing I would like to know about diatomite is whether it flies
> all over the place, or is it orderly like 410? I don't know what
> they use as a binder in 410, if I did, and could mix my own, I can
> think of a number of uses.
--- In bolger@y..., "lulalake_1999" <lulalake_1999@y...> wrote:
> And speaking of fairing fillers, Has anybody used diatomatious
earth
> as a fairing compound filler?
>
> It has much the same feel as talc, is cheaper and way more
available
> ( Known as "DE" in pool maintenance supplies, gardening supply
> houses, pet supply houses) . I'm going to pick up some today and
> experiment with it.
>
> Jules
>
> , DE


Here is a quote from one of the Sneakeasy builders:

Sneakeasy
26 feet long with a 4 foot beam
This is a design by Phil Bolger of Gloucester, MA.
Constuction is straight forward plywood, 1/2" bottom, 1/4" sides. I
tried to bend 1/4" fir plywood to the specified radius for the deck
but
substituted two layers of 1/8" mahogany doorskins instead. All
exterior
surfaces were covered with 9 oz. fiberglass cloth using System Three
epoxy resin. Where a thickener was required for fillets and filling
the
weave of the sheathing, diatomite and milled fiberglass was used.
Diatomite is swimming pool filter media. The basic hull and deck ,
glassed and painted, weighed 475 lbs.



My only comment is to consider not just what the powder costs, but
what yield you get. I get enourmous yield from 410, in the 3-5 times
epoxy volume range. It costs a lot, but epoxy wise it robably works
out even, depending on what grade of epox you are using.

One thing I would like to know about diatomite is whether it flies
all over the place, or is it orderly like 410? I don't know what
they use as a binder in 410, if I did, and could mix my own, I can
think of a number of uses.
Thanks for the tips,

I think I'll just keep using DE in the garden and on the pets and use
for filleting.

J.

--- In bolger@y..., "Richard Spelling" <richard@c...> wrote:
> Bitch to sand. Used it for the armor coating on the last boat.
Also, runs
> unless you add fumed silica, which is also a bitch to sand.
>
> Use talk or wheat flour for fairing.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "lulalake_1999" <lulalake_1999@y...>
> To: <bolger@y...>
> Sent: Monday, June 17, 2002 12:48 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: hull fairing
>
>
> > And speaking of fairing fillers, Has anybody used diatomatious
earth
> > as a fairing compound filler?
> >
> > It has much the same feel as talc, is cheaper and way more
available
> > ( Known as "DE" in pool maintenance supplies, gardening supply
> > houses, pet supply houses) . I'm going to pick up some today and
> > experiment with it.
> >
> > Jules
> >
> >
> > --- In bolger@y..., "sanmi" <sanmi@y...> wrote:
> > > When I built my 15' sharpie (Michalak AF-3), I figured fairing
the
> > > hull was for sissies. After all, I wanted workboat finish and
who
> > > would care if there were some rough spots. I sheathed bottom
but
> > not
> > > the sides. Filling the weave with a third or fourth coat of
epoxy
> > > seemed purely optional.
> > >
> > > All those articles and chapters in the books and magazines about
> > > fairing are merely the result of some misplaced 19th century
> > yachting
> > > aesthetic that places a disproportionate value on form over
> > function -
> > > right?
> > >
> > > Wrong.
> > >
> > > After spending the weekend upside down sanding off poisonous
bottom
> > > paint from an un-filled, un-faired bottom in order to effect
some
> > > repairs to the sheathing, I've realized there is a very
practical
> > > reason for fairing and filling - repairs!
> > >
> > > Frank
> > > Wilmington, DE
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
posts
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and
<snip> away
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@y...
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
Thanks for the tips,

I think I'll just keep using DE in the garden and on the pets and use
for filleting.

J.

--- In bolger@y..., "Richard Spelling" <richard@c...> wrote:
> Bitch to sand. Used it for the armor coating on the last boat.
Also, runs
> unless you add fumed silica, which is also a bitch to sand.
>
> Use talk or wheat flour for fairing.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "lulalake_1999" <lulalake_1999@y...>
> To: <bolger@y...>
> Sent: Monday, June 17, 2002 12:48 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: hull fairing
>
>
> > And speaking of fairing fillers, Has anybody used diatomatious
earth
> > as a fairing compound filler?
> >
> > It has much the same feel as talc, is cheaper and way more
available
> > ( Known as "DE" in pool maintenance supplies, gardening supply
> > houses, pet supply houses) . I'm going to pick up some today and
> > experiment with it.
> >
> > Jules
> >
> >
> > --- In bolger@y..., "sanmi" <sanmi@y...> wrote:
> > > When I built my 15' sharpie (Michalak AF-3), I figured fairing
the
> > > hull was for sissies. After all, I wanted workboat finish and
who
> > > would care if there were some rough spots. I sheathed bottom
but
> > not
> > > the sides. Filling the weave with a third or fourth coat of
epoxy
> > > seemed purely optional.
> > >
> > > All those articles and chapters in the books and magazines about
> > > fairing are merely the result of some misplaced 19th century
> > yachting
> > > aesthetic that places a disproportionate value on form over
> > function -
> > > right?
> > >
> > > Wrong.
> > >
> > > After spending the weekend upside down sanding off poisonous
bottom
> > > paint from an un-filled, un-faired bottom in order to effect
some
> > > repairs to the sheathing, I've realized there is a very
practical
> > > reason for fairing and filling - repairs!
> > >
> > > Frank
> > > Wilmington, DE
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
posts
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and
<snip> away
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@y...
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
Bitch to sand. Used it for the armor coating on the last boat. Also, runs
unless you add fumed silica, which is also a bitch to sand.

Use talk or wheat flour for fairing.
----- Original Message -----
From: "lulalake_1999" <lulalake_1999@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2002 12:48 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: hull fairing


> And speaking of fairing fillers, Has anybody used diatomatious earth
> as a fairing compound filler?
>
> It has much the same feel as talc, is cheaper and way more available
> ( Known as "DE" in pool maintenance supplies, gardening supply
> houses, pet supply houses) . I'm going to pick up some today and
> experiment with it.
>
> Jules
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "sanmi" <sanmi@y...> wrote:
> > When I built my 15' sharpie (Michalak AF-3), I figured fairing the
> > hull was for sissies. After all, I wanted workboat finish and who
> > would care if there were some rough spots. I sheathed bottom but
> not
> > the sides. Filling the weave with a third or fourth coat of epoxy
> > seemed purely optional.
> >
> > All those articles and chapters in the books and magazines about
> > fairing are merely the result of some misplaced 19th century
> yachting
> > aesthetic that places a disproportionate value on form over
> function -
> > right?
> >
> > Wrong.
> >
> > After spending the weekend upside down sanding off poisonous bottom
> > paint from an un-filled, un-faired bottom in order to effect some
> > repairs to the sheathing, I've realized there is a very practical
> > reason for fairing and filling - repairs!
> >
> > Frank
> > Wilmington, DE
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
WestSystem's "Mircolight Fairing Compound" is a joy to use, but
wicked expensive. Used with slow resin, you get a drywall compound
type mud with a long open time. Sands very easily, yet seems to hold
up nicely. If I could find a cheaper substitute, I could learn to
love fairing.
-D


>My understand is it is harder to sand then the other finish fillers like
>micro balloons. I believe it gets used more for fillets and as a
>thickener for gluing.
>
>HJ
>
>lulalake_1999 wrote:
>>
>> And speaking of fairing fillers, Has anybody used diatomatious earth
>> as a fairing compound filler?
>>
>> It has much the same feel as talc, is cheaper and way more available
>> ( Known as "DE" in pool maintenance supplies, gardening supply
>> houses, pet supply houses) . I'm going to pick up some today and
>> experiment with it.
>>
>> Jules
>> .
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
>MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/


C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
My understand is it is harder to sand then the other finish fillers like
micro balloons. I believe it gets used more for fillets and as a
thickener for gluing.

HJ

lulalake_1999 wrote:
>
> And speaking of fairing fillers, Has anybody used diatomatious earth
> as a fairing compound filler?
>
> It has much the same feel as talc, is cheaper and way more available
> ( Known as "DE" in pool maintenance supplies, gardening supply
> houses, pet supply houses) . I'm going to pick up some today and
> experiment with it.
>
> Jules
> .
And speaking of fairing fillers, Has anybody used diatomatious earth
as a fairing compound filler?

It has much the same feel as talc, is cheaper and way more available
( Known as "DE" in pool maintenance supplies, gardening supply
houses, pet supply houses) . I'm going to pick up some today and
experiment with it.

Jules


--- In bolger@y..., "sanmi" <sanmi@y...> wrote:
> When I built my 15' sharpie (Michalak AF-3), I figured fairing the
> hull was for sissies. After all, I wanted workboat finish and who
> would care if there were some rough spots. I sheathed bottom but
not
> the sides. Filling the weave with a third or fourth coat of epoxy
> seemed purely optional.
>
> All those articles and chapters in the books and magazines about
> fairing are merely the result of some misplaced 19th century
yachting
> aesthetic that places a disproportionate value on form over
function -
> right?
>
> Wrong.
>
> After spending the weekend upside down sanding off poisonous bottom
> paint from an un-filled, un-faired bottom in order to effect some
> repairs to the sheathing, I've realized there is a very practical
> reason for fairing and filling - repairs!
>
> Frank
> Wilmington, DE
> After spending the weekend upside down sanding off poisonous bottom
> paint from an un-filled, un-faired bottom in order to effect some
> repairs to the sheathing, I've realized there is a very practical
> reason for fairing and filling - repairs!
>
> Frank
> Wilmington, DE

I agree. Also workboats if you look at them aren't necesarily
scruffy. They don't waste a lot of time on nonsense, but a smooth
fair surface isn't nonsense. I try to get everything looking nice,
but I won't waste time, for instance, trying to make a wood/epoxy
boat look like it was built in a mirror polished female mold. There
are, after all, advantages to wood construction over fiberglass, so
why make one look like the other?
When I built my 15' sharpie (Michalak AF-3), I figured fairing the
hull was for sissies. After all, I wanted workboat finish and who
would care if there were some rough spots. I sheathed bottom but not
the sides. Filling the weave with a third or fourth coat of epoxy
seemed purely optional.

All those articles and chapters in the books and magazines about
fairing are merely the result of some misplaced 19th century yachting
aesthetic that places a disproportionate value on form over function -
right?

Wrong.

After spending the weekend upside down sanding off poisonous bottom
paint from an un-filled, un-faired bottom in order to effect some
repairs to the sheathing, I've realized there is a very practical
reason for fairing and filling - repairs!

Frank
Wilmington, DE