Re: [bolger] screwed
WD-40. Dump 'em in an old butter tub and spray all at one time. Works
surprisingly well. I've heard that cooking spray isn't too bad either.
JB
surprisingly well. I've heard that cooking spray isn't too bad either.
JB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Crandall" <crandall@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2002 4:40 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] screwed
| On Thu, 20 Jun 2002, timk_smith wrote:
| > Anybody else had this problem and solved it? Is there a fail-safe
| > fastener for this kind of application?
|
| All it takes is rubbing the screw in wax or bar soap. Make sure the
| coating is not excessive. Both work like a champ.
In a message dated 22-06-02 12:00:13 AM E. Australia Standard Time,
richard@...writes:
resin: you can remove resin dribbles from plywood by heating them with a
heatgun and then scraping them off with a paint scraper.
Howard
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
richard@...writes:
>Just in case there are some who don't know another similar trick with epoxy
> I heat a screwdriver up nice and hot and do the same thing. Screwdriver
> works to clear epoxy out of the slots too, even under glass!
>
resin: you can remove resin dribbles from plywood by heating them with a
heatgun and then scraping them off with a paint scraper.
Howard
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi
I started to reply to this then was interrupted, I have no idea of
where my first reply might be.
Anyway, the solution is not to use dry wall screws. Try some
flooring screws instead. They come in bulk, like drywall screws, and
are equally inexpensive. They have a yellow colour, with good sharp
threads all the way to the head, which wants a Robertson (square)
screwdrive so it never slips. I believe they are also rust resistant
for use on decks (on houses not boats) but I haven't left any in the
boat to find out how resistant.
So save the drywall screws for your next drywall job, and buy
flooring screws for the rest. They come in various lengths and can
be re-used indefinitely. I've bent them but never broken one.
Jamie Orr
I started to reply to this then was interrupted, I have no idea of
where my first reply might be.
Anyway, the solution is not to use dry wall screws. Try some
flooring screws instead. They come in bulk, like drywall screws, and
are equally inexpensive. They have a yellow colour, with good sharp
threads all the way to the head, which wants a Robertson (square)
screwdrive so it never slips. I believe they are also rust resistant
for use on decks (on houses not boats) but I haven't left any in the
boat to find out how resistant.
So save the drywall screws for your next drywall job, and buy
flooring screws for the rest. They come in various lengths and can
be re-used indefinitely. I've bent them but never broken one.
Jamie Orr
--- In bolger@y..., "timk_smith" <timk_smith@f...> wrote:
> Assembling a bulkhead for Topaz, I epoxied a couple of
> one-inch-thick beams to half-inch plywood faces. Grabbed a
> handful of drywall screws and drove them in to hold the parts till
> the glue dried.
>
> Last night I went to back out the screws, and every one of them
> snapped--head came off, shank stayed in the wood. Because
> this is an interior bulkhead I'm not concerned; i'll just seal
them
> up and leave them in. But when it comes time to laminate the
> one-inch bottom, I really don't want this to happen.
>
> I haven't had this problem before, but then, my previous Bolgers
> have been smaller, and I've rarely dealt with tacking
> inch-and-a-half thick assemblies. (This is also the first time
I've
> used the hollow joint technique as described in the files, so
> there was an unusually thick layer of epoxy in there).
>
> The screws were generic, one-and-a-half-inch, hardware-store
> drywall screws with a silvery finish (don't know if they are
> galvanized, and I don't have the box with me).
>
> Anybody else had this problem and solved it? Is there a fail-safe
> fastener for this kind of application?
>
> --tim.
I heat a screwdriver up nice and hot and do the same thing. Screwdriver
works to clear epoxy out of the slots too, even under glass!
works to clear epoxy out of the slots too, even under glass!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Pope" <jpope@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, June 21, 2002 6:57 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: screwed
> Just a thought. Try touching the head of the screw with the tip of a
heated soldering iron. Hold it
> there for a bit, and then back the screw right out. It has worked for me.
> Jim
>
> bjharbo wrote:
>
> > Yes, I experienced the same while laminating the one inch bottom AND
> > the 1,5 inch shoe of my William D Jochems. Abt. 20% of the screws
> > broke and I had to leave them in. I haven't thought of it as a
> > problem until I read your posting. Everything will be covered by
> > fiberglass and epoxy. Don't worry, be happy!
> > My WDJ will be launched in some weeks. I will tell if cathastrophies
> > occur...
> > Bjørn
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Just a thought. Try touching the head of the screw with the tip of a heated soldering iron. Hold it
there for a bit, and then back the screw right out. It has worked for me.
Jim
bjharbo wrote:
there for a bit, and then back the screw right out. It has worked for me.
Jim
bjharbo wrote:
> Yes, I experienced the same while laminating the one inch bottom AND
> the 1,5 inch shoe of my William D Jochems. Abt. 20% of the screws
> broke and I had to leave them in. I haven't thought of it as a
> problem until I read your posting. Everything will be covered by
> fiberglass and epoxy. Don't worry, be happy!
> My WDJ will be launched in some weeks. I will tell if cathastrophies
> occur...
> Bjørn
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Yes, I experienced the same while laminating the one inch bottom AND
the 1,5 inch shoe of my William D Jochems. Abt. 20% of the screws
broke and I had to leave them in. I haven't thought of it as a
problem until I read your posting. Everything will be covered by
fiberglass and epoxy. Don't worry, be happy!
My WDJ will be launched in some weeks. I will tell if cathastrophies
occur...
Bjørn
the 1,5 inch shoe of my William D Jochems. Abt. 20% of the screws
broke and I had to leave them in. I haven't thought of it as a
problem until I read your posting. Everything will be covered by
fiberglass and epoxy. Don't worry, be happy!
My WDJ will be launched in some weeks. I will tell if cathastrophies
occur...
Bjørn
On Friday 21 June 2002 00:15, timk_smith wrote:
starts to set up, but failing that I have had good luck heating the
screw first. Hold a soldering iron to the head for a couple of
minutes.
Half inch ply is pretty thick. Maybe you should use something
a bit more rugged than the standard drywall screw.
--
Bruce Fountain (fountainb@...)
Senior Software Engineer
Union Switch and Signal Pty Ltd
Perth Western Australia
tel: +618 9256 0083
> Last night I went to back out the screws, and every one of themOf course, the key is to give the screw a turn after the epoxy
> snapped--head came off, shank stayed in the wood. Because
> this is an interior bulkhead I'm not concerned; i'll just seal them
> up and leave them in. But when it comes time to laminate the
> one-inch bottom, I really don't want this to happen.
starts to set up, but failing that I have had good luck heating the
screw first. Hold a soldering iron to the head for a couple of
minutes.
Half inch ply is pretty thick. Maybe you should use something
a bit more rugged than the standard drywall screw.
--
Bruce Fountain (fountainb@...)
Senior Software Engineer
Union Switch and Signal Pty Ltd
Perth Western Australia
tel: +618 9256 0083
--- In bolger@y..., "timk_smith" <timk_smith@f...> wrote:
Further evidence the hollow joint is a solution in search of a
problem, well.. now in search of the right problem.
On Thu, 20 Jun 2002, timk_smith wrote:
coating is not excessive. Both work like a champ.
> Anybody else had this problem and solved it? Is there a fail-safeAll it takes is rubbing the screw in wax or bar soap. Make sure the
> fastener for this kind of application?
coating is not excessive. Both work like a champ.
Coat the screws with wax prior to driving them. Loosen them up a turn
when the epoxy is about 90% cured, but still soft.
when the epoxy is about 90% cured, but still soft.
--- In bolger@y..., "mikestockstill" <mkstocks@b...> wrote:
> Unless there is a specific reason to remove them, I just leave them
> in there. They hurt nothing, and add support.
>
> Mike
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "timk_smith" <timk_smith@f...> wrote:
> > Assembling a bulkhead for Topaz, I epoxied a couple of
> > one-inch-thick beams to half-inch plywood faces. Grabbed a
> > handful of drywall screws and drove them in to hold the parts
till
> > the glue dried.
> >
> > Last night I went to back out the screws, and every one of them
> > snapped--head came off, shank stayed in the wood. Because
> > this is an interior bulkhead I'm not concerned; i'll just seal
> them
> > up and leave them in. But when it comes time to laminate the
> > one-inch bottom, I really don't want this to happen.
> >
> > I haven't had this problem before, but then, my previous Bolgers
> > have been smaller, and I've rarely dealt with tacking
> > inch-and-a-half thick assemblies. (This is also the first time
> I've
> > used the hollow joint technique as described in the files, so
> > there was an unusually thick layer of epoxy in there).
> >
> > The screws were generic, one-and-a-half-inch, hardware-store
> > drywall screws with a silvery finish (don't know if they are
> > galvanized, and I don't have the box with me).
> >
> > Anybody else had this problem and solved it? Is there a
fail-safe
> > fastener for this kind of application?
> >
> > --tim.
Unless there is a specific reason to remove them, I just leave them
in there. They hurt nothing, and add support.
Mike
in there. They hurt nothing, and add support.
Mike
--- In bolger@y..., "timk_smith" <timk_smith@f...> wrote:
> Assembling a bulkhead for Topaz, I epoxied a couple of
> one-inch-thick beams to half-inch plywood faces. Grabbed a
> handful of drywall screws and drove them in to hold the parts till
> the glue dried.
>
> Last night I went to back out the screws, and every one of them
> snapped--head came off, shank stayed in the wood. Because
> this is an interior bulkhead I'm not concerned; i'll just seal
them
> up and leave them in. But when it comes time to laminate the
> one-inch bottom, I really don't want this to happen.
>
> I haven't had this problem before, but then, my previous Bolgers
> have been smaller, and I've rarely dealt with tacking
> inch-and-a-half thick assemblies. (This is also the first time
I've
> used the hollow joint technique as described in the files, so
> there was an unusually thick layer of epoxy in there).
>
> The screws were generic, one-and-a-half-inch, hardware-store
> drywall screws with a silvery finish (don't know if they are
> galvanized, and I don't have the box with me).
>
> Anybody else had this problem and solved it? Is there a fail-safe
> fastener for this kind of application?
>
> --tim.
If stuck, heat up to soften epoxy.
Sometimes I have this problem, the trick is to pull them before the epoxy
gets rock hard.
Sometimes I have this problem, the trick is to pull them before the epoxy
gets rock hard.
----- Original Message -----
From: "timk_smith" <timk_smith@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2002 11:15 AM
Subject: [bolger] screwed
> Assembling a bulkhead for Topaz, I epoxied a couple of
> one-inch-thick beams to half-inch plywood faces. Grabbed a
> handful of drywall screws and drove them in to hold the parts till
> the glue dried.
>
> Last night I went to back out the screws, and every one of them
> snapped--head came off, shank stayed in the wood. Because
> this is an interior bulkhead I'm not concerned; i'll just seal them
> up and leave them in. But when it comes time to laminate the
> one-inch bottom, I really don't want this to happen.
>
> I haven't had this problem before, but then, my previous Bolgers
> have been smaller, and I've rarely dealt with tacking
> inch-and-a-half thick assemblies. (This is also the first time I've
> used the hollow joint technique as described in the files, so
> there was an unusually thick layer of epoxy in there).
>
> The screws were generic, one-and-a-half-inch, hardware-store
> drywall screws with a silvery finish (don't know if they are
> galvanized, and I don't have the box with me).
>
> Anybody else had this problem and solved it? Is there a fail-safe
> fastener for this kind of application?
>
> --tim.
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Assembling a bulkhead for Topaz, I epoxied a couple of
one-inch-thick beams to half-inch plywood faces. Grabbed a
handful of drywall screws and drove them in to hold the parts till
the glue dried.
Last night I went to back out the screws, and every one of them
snapped--head came off, shank stayed in the wood. Because
this is an interior bulkhead I'm not concerned; i'll just seal them
up and leave them in. But when it comes time to laminate the
one-inch bottom, I really don't want this to happen.
I haven't had this problem before, but then, my previous Bolgers
have been smaller, and I've rarely dealt with tacking
inch-and-a-half thick assemblies. (This is also the first time I've
used the hollow joint technique as described in the files, so
there was an unusually thick layer of epoxy in there).
The screws were generic, one-and-a-half-inch, hardware-store
drywall screws with a silvery finish (don't know if they are
galvanized, and I don't have the box with me).
Anybody else had this problem and solved it? Is there a fail-safe
fastener for this kind of application?
--tim.
one-inch-thick beams to half-inch plywood faces. Grabbed a
handful of drywall screws and drove them in to hold the parts till
the glue dried.
Last night I went to back out the screws, and every one of them
snapped--head came off, shank stayed in the wood. Because
this is an interior bulkhead I'm not concerned; i'll just seal them
up and leave them in. But when it comes time to laminate the
one-inch bottom, I really don't want this to happen.
I haven't had this problem before, but then, my previous Bolgers
have been smaller, and I've rarely dealt with tacking
inch-and-a-half thick assemblies. (This is also the first time I've
used the hollow joint technique as described in the files, so
there was an unusually thick layer of epoxy in there).
The screws were generic, one-and-a-half-inch, hardware-store
drywall screws with a silvery finish (don't know if they are
galvanized, and I don't have the box with me).
Anybody else had this problem and solved it? Is there a fail-safe
fastener for this kind of application?
--tim.