Re: Wyo problem
Jeff,
Here's what I did on the Dakota main cabin.
First, The lower edge of the cabin side panels is cut to the curve of
the shear, but the upper edge is the factory edge. This gave me a
straight top edge that was in the same plane the entire length of the
cabin. The window framing at the top is a continuous run of 1 x 4 fir
with the top edge slightly below the straight edge of the of the side
panels. this gave me a ledge all around to glue and nail the ceiling to.
I installed a flat ceiling of 3/8' ply using temporary support posts.
I ran these sheets crossways and glued 3/8 ply butt straps above.
I made up about 13 identical beams of double 1/2' ply standing on edge.
These are cut to the roof camber on top and are flat on the bottom.
They are about 5" deep at the centerline to about 2" at the ends. The
beams are glued on to the upper surface of the ceiling at each window
mullion location which makes them a bit less than 24" on centers. The
ones at the widest middle part of the cabin fit full width. Going toward
the ends as the cabin narrows, I had to shorten them by taking identical
amounts off each end. As you cut the beam ends off, they obviously get
deeper at the ends the narrower the cabin gets. This gives you a curved
shear line at the intersection of the cabins sides and the roof. I just
happened to have saved the cut off waste from the hull side panels which
was already scarfed. I use this material to extend the cabin side panel
up to this curvature. I glued in blocking between the beams all around
the edge and also out from the center fore and aft at two distances.
What I have now is like an egg crate or ice cube tray. I ran most of my
wiring in the "attic" between the ceiling and roof. I am starting to
fill it with blue styrofoam board before I install the 3/8" cabin roof.
the foam is for insulation primarily.
I will try to get a picture posted in the next day or two.
Vince
Here's what I did on the Dakota main cabin.
First, The lower edge of the cabin side panels is cut to the curve of
the shear, but the upper edge is the factory edge. This gave me a
straight top edge that was in the same plane the entire length of the
cabin. The window framing at the top is a continuous run of 1 x 4 fir
with the top edge slightly below the straight edge of the of the side
panels. this gave me a ledge all around to glue and nail the ceiling to.
I installed a flat ceiling of 3/8' ply using temporary support posts.
I ran these sheets crossways and glued 3/8 ply butt straps above.
I made up about 13 identical beams of double 1/2' ply standing on edge.
These are cut to the roof camber on top and are flat on the bottom.
They are about 5" deep at the centerline to about 2" at the ends. The
beams are glued on to the upper surface of the ceiling at each window
mullion location which makes them a bit less than 24" on centers. The
ones at the widest middle part of the cabin fit full width. Going toward
the ends as the cabin narrows, I had to shorten them by taking identical
amounts off each end. As you cut the beam ends off, they obviously get
deeper at the ends the narrower the cabin gets. This gives you a curved
shear line at the intersection of the cabins sides and the roof. I just
happened to have saved the cut off waste from the hull side panels which
was already scarfed. I use this material to extend the cabin side panel
up to this curvature. I glued in blocking between the beams all around
the edge and also out from the center fore and aft at two distances.
What I have now is like an egg crate or ice cube tray. I ran most of my
wiring in the "attic" between the ceiling and roof. I am starting to
fill it with blue styrofoam board before I install the 3/8" cabin roof.
the foam is for insulation primarily.
I will try to get a picture posted in the next day or two.
Vince