Re: [bolger] Electricians? - pretty much off-topic
Hi Bill
Looks like fun :)
The panel is obviously sold for a marine application (switch labels
suggest). If it was originally intended for automotive use the expectation
may well be that a ground (the vehicle chassis or equivalent) will be
available adjacent to each piece of equipment being served. That way you are
running only one wire, the 'hot' (connected to battery positive, usually)
feed to any given circuit.
At a guess, your bare connectors at the switches are 'hot' when the switch
closes. A ground (black) connection would be needed at each switch to allow
current flow through the bulb inside the switch. you would connect a wire
from the switch and run it to one side of the item being powered, with the
ground wire being taken to a convenient chassis point. Although it's a bit
half assed, I've seen people use those cigarette lighter sockets as the
'power in' connection, and that would work in your case - the fuses might
give you a clue as to intention.
Further clues could perhaps be obtained from close examination of the
switches - sometimes manufactureres are kind enough as to mould the internal
configuration diagram into the casing of the switch.
Good luck
Derek
Looks like fun :)
The panel is obviously sold for a marine application (switch labels
suggest). If it was originally intended for automotive use the expectation
may well be that a ground (the vehicle chassis or equivalent) will be
available adjacent to each piece of equipment being served. That way you are
running only one wire, the 'hot' (connected to battery positive, usually)
feed to any given circuit.
At a guess, your bare connectors at the switches are 'hot' when the switch
closes. A ground (black) connection would be needed at each switch to allow
current flow through the bulb inside the switch. you would connect a wire
from the switch and run it to one side of the item being powered, with the
ground wire being taken to a convenient chassis point. Although it's a bit
half assed, I've seen people use those cigarette lighter sockets as the
'power in' connection, and that would work in your case - the fuses might
give you a clue as to intention.
Further clues could perhaps be obtained from close examination of the
switches - sometimes manufactureres are kind enough as to mould the internal
configuration diagram into the casing of the switch.
Good luck
Derek
I'd planned to use the long weekend to install a switch panel in a
boat, but now that it has arrived, sans wiring diagram or other
instructions, I'm clueless. Guess I'll just have to goof off for the
weekend. Schematically:
+ + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ + + + +
+ + + + +
F + F F F
+ + + + +
+ + + + +
C V SL SL SL
x * Z Z Z
x * x x x
x ST x x x
x-----x-----x-----x-----x
"+" = red wiring
"x" & "--" = black wiring
"*" = red jumper between "ST" and "V"
"F" = fuse
"C" = 12V socket (cigarette lighter)
"V" = voltmeter (evidently in circuit only when "ST" is pressed.)
"SL" = illuminated light switch (3 - "navigation", "anchor" & "cabin")
"Z" = bare third electrical connection on "SL"
"ST" = test switch for voltmeter
There are no vacant terminals with the exception of the 3 "Z" spades.
The "SL" switches are rocker switches which are supposed to
illuminate when turned on. I don't know if they are supposed to
illuminate if turned on and the circuit they control remains open
because of a burned-out bulb or blown fuse. I'm mystified as to what
function, if any, the unconnected "Z" terminals perform.
The "ST" switch is a spring-loaded, on-off switch. Evidently, the
voltmeter is intended to function only when the "TEST" switch is
closed by pushing it.
So, I have two problems: 1) where in this circuit do I attach my
postitive and negative leads from the battery; and 2) where do I
attach my positive and negative leads for each of my lighting
circuits?
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
boat, but now that it has arrived, sans wiring diagram or other
instructions, I'm clueless. Guess I'll just have to goof off for the
weekend. Schematically:
+ + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ + + + +
+ + + + +
F + F F F
+ + + + +
+ + + + +
C V SL SL SL
x * Z Z Z
x * x x x
x ST x x x
x-----x-----x-----x-----x
"+" = red wiring
"x" & "--" = black wiring
"*" = red jumper between "ST" and "V"
"F" = fuse
"C" = 12V socket (cigarette lighter)
"V" = voltmeter (evidently in circuit only when "ST" is pressed.)
"SL" = illuminated light switch (3 - "navigation", "anchor" & "cabin")
"Z" = bare third electrical connection on "SL"
"ST" = test switch for voltmeter
There are no vacant terminals with the exception of the 3 "Z" spades.
The "SL" switches are rocker switches which are supposed to
illuminate when turned on. I don't know if they are supposed to
illuminate if turned on and the circuit they control remains open
because of a burned-out bulb or blown fuse. I'm mystified as to what
function, if any, the unconnected "Z" terminals perform.
The "ST" switch is a spring-loaded, on-off switch. Evidently, the
voltmeter is intended to function only when the "TEST" switch is
closed by pushing it.
So, I have two problems: 1) where in this circuit do I attach my
postitive and negative leads from the battery; and 2) where do I
attach my positive and negative leads for each of my lighting
circuits?
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN