Re: Elegant Punt - epoxy keel
--- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
bottom of my boat without some temporary fasteners, unless as has
been suggested I use multiple pieces and weights etc..., which has no
appeal. There is significant curvature, and even if I succeed, I
still have wood there, not something I can ignore for the next 20
years.
its own without anything. Cleats will not, uless you pre-laminate to
the curve, or cut them out of ply (yuck) or got real lucky with
springback.
day! I am into epoxy and milled fibers. I never expect anything
other than an accident to get into the hull, which is well glassed.
If the whole thing were biodegradeable, then a plain wood element
would be fine: "we will all go together when we go" as Ton Lerer
said. But this will eliminate a maintenance issue for me.
I don't present this alternative as superior, just alternate.
Superior only as circumstances dictate.
> I used only thickened epoxy to fasten the skeg to my Gull and Ihave
> a feeling that's far stronger than anything setting a few screwsBeen there done that, but I won't be able to attach, cleats to the
> through 1/4" plywood might add.
bottom of my boat without some temporary fasteners, unless as has
been suggested I use multiple pieces and weights etc..., which has no
appeal. There is significant curvature, and even if I succeed, I
still have wood there, not something I can ignore for the next 20
years.
>bottom
> As earlier posted, scribing and cutting the skeg piece to the
> curve was far easier than I thought it would be. The fit was sothe
> close, I just buttered up the skeg and set it in place. I formed
> epoxy that gooped out into a fillet. I did this after the hull wasRight, but that is a solid piece of material that would sit there on
> glassed.
its own without anything. Cleats will not, uless you pre-laminate to
the curve, or cut them out of ply (yuck) or got real lucky with
springback.
>over
> After my experiences with the teal and LS, I would not put glass
> a skeg or shoe again. Dragging a boat across sand seems to be aboutWhich is why I won't be using wood. If the glass goes: Make my
> the best way to take the glass off the shoe. Once you get a small
> hole in the glass, the water gets in and takes care of delaminating
> the rest.
day! I am into epoxy and milled fibers. I never expect anything
other than an accident to get into the hull, which is well glassed.
If the whole thing were biodegradeable, then a plain wood element
would be fine: "we will all go together when we go" as Ton Lerer
said. But this will eliminate a maintenance issue for me.
I don't present this alternative as superior, just alternate.
Superior only as circumstances dictate.
--- In bolger@y..., "rnlocnil" <lincolnr@m...> wrote:
Apart from the cost and mixing, it is always easier to cove elements
than to build nice wood structures. If you look at some of the
ealier wooden/epoxy boats, they often had bulkheads installed over
lots of wooden bits and pieces to spread the load. Nowadays, we just
fire in a cove, and some glass, and leave it at that, it would be
hard to argue it was easier otherwise, and this is the case here.
Controling mulitple bits of epoxy/greasy wood without fasteners,
isn't as easy as running a cove along the bottom. And, of course, in
my case, the fact remains I only ever want to do it once, so the all-
plastic approach will wear much better.
> I should think it might be easier to just epoxy on the strips, witha
> bunch of weight to hole them in place. You could use several thinwood
> strips to build them up if you wanted to, in which case only thelast
> layer would be wet.I appreciate the thought, but don't think it is true in my case.
Apart from the cost and mixing, it is always easier to cove elements
than to build nice wood structures. If you look at some of the
ealier wooden/epoxy boats, they often had bulkheads installed over
lots of wooden bits and pieces to spread the load. Nowadays, we just
fire in a cove, and some glass, and leave it at that, it would be
hard to argue it was easier otherwise, and this is the case here.
Controling mulitple bits of epoxy/greasy wood without fasteners,
isn't as easy as running a cove along the bottom. And, of course, in
my case, the fact remains I only ever want to do it once, so the all-
plastic approach will wear much better.
"I would not put glass over a skeg or shoe again. Dragging a boat
across sand seems to be about the best way to take the glass off the
shoe. Once you get a small hole in the glass, the water gets in and
takes care of delaminating the rest."
Might be good to consider a couple of UHMW strips along the bottom of
the skegs.
across sand seems to be about the best way to take the glass off the
shoe. Once you get a small hole in the glass, the water gets in and
takes care of delaminating the rest."
Might be good to consider a couple of UHMW strips along the bottom of
the skegs.
--- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
> I used only thickened epoxy to fasten the skeg to my Gull and I
have
> a feeling that's far stronger than anything setting a few screws
> through 1/4" plywood might add.
>
> As earlier posted, scribing and cutting the skeg piece to the
bottom
> curve was far easier than I thought it would be. The fit was so
> close, I just buttered up the skeg and set it in place. I formed
the
> epoxy that gooped out into a fillet. I did this after the hull was
> glassed.
>
> After my experiences with the teal and LS, I would not put glass
over
> a skeg or shoe again. Dragging a boat across sand seems to be about
> the best way to take the glass off the shoe. Once you get a small
> hole in the glass, the water gets in and takes care of delaminating
> the rest.
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
>
>
> >I should think it might be easier to just epoxy on the strips,
with a
> >bunch of weight to hole them in place. You could use several thin
wood
> >strips to build them up if you wanted to, in which case only the
last
> >layer would be wet.
> >
> >I have found, on the Nymph, that it is pretty helpful to have a
> >sufficient skeg, at least when my s.o. rows. Greatly increases the
> >time it takes to veer off course when you raise the oars. Ours was
> >slightly smaller than shown on plans at first, but was inadequate.
> >Added a piece to make it slightly larger than plans, which made it
> >much nicer. I have a feeling that Bolger or Payson messed with it
> >until it was just right before BOlger drew the final plans. Keep
> >mentioning the Nymph, I've got to get psyched to fix it!
> >--- In bolger@y..., "proaconstrictor" <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
> >snip
> >> generally. I am loath to add wood strips, because I would have
to
> >> fasten them, and this late in the game don't have sufficient
access
> >> to inside to be sure I would get all the holes well enogh
closed.
> >> What I think I may do is make a pattern, and do that thing
plasters
> >> do to when they need to apply a cornice etc... I will whipe on
the
> >> keel in a series of passes, and when it has hardened, I will
glass
> >> it. That way it should prottect the boat against grounding
also,
> >and
> >> it won't become a soggy mess when half worn off, as it might if
it
> >> were of wood.
> >>
> >>
> >> --- In bolger@y..., "dbaldnz" <oink@p...> wrote:
> >> > I'm not that overweight proa :)
> >> > But
> >
> >
> >
> >Bolger rules!!!
> >- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> >- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
posts
> >- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and
<snip> away
> >- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
> >MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> >- Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> >- Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@y...
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
> C.E.P.
> 415 W.46th Street
> New York, New York 10036
>http://www.crumblingempire.com
> Mobile (646) 325-8325
> Office (212) 247-0296
I used only thickened epoxy to fasten the skeg to my Gull and I have
a feeling that's far stronger than anything setting a few screws
through 1/4" plywood might add.
As earlier posted, scribing and cutting the skeg piece to the bottom
curve was far easier than I thought it would be. The fit was so
close, I just buttered up the skeg and set it in place. I formed the
epoxy that gooped out into a fillet. I did this after the hull was
glassed.
After my experiences with the teal and LS, I would not put glass over
a skeg or shoe again. Dragging a boat across sand seems to be about
the best way to take the glass off the shoe. Once you get a small
hole in the glass, the water gets in and takes care of delaminating
the rest.
YIBB,
David
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
Mobile (646) 325-8325
Office (212) 247-0296
a feeling that's far stronger than anything setting a few screws
through 1/4" plywood might add.
As earlier posted, scribing and cutting the skeg piece to the bottom
curve was far easier than I thought it would be. The fit was so
close, I just buttered up the skeg and set it in place. I formed the
epoxy that gooped out into a fillet. I did this after the hull was
glassed.
After my experiences with the teal and LS, I would not put glass over
a skeg or shoe again. Dragging a boat across sand seems to be about
the best way to take the glass off the shoe. Once you get a small
hole in the glass, the water gets in and takes care of delaminating
the rest.
YIBB,
David
>I should think it might be easier to just epoxy on the strips, with aC.E.P.
>bunch of weight to hole them in place. You could use several thin wood
>strips to build them up if you wanted to, in which case only the last
>layer would be wet.
>
>I have found, on the Nymph, that it is pretty helpful to have a
>sufficient skeg, at least when my s.o. rows. Greatly increases the
>time it takes to veer off course when you raise the oars. Ours was
>slightly smaller than shown on plans at first, but was inadequate.
>Added a piece to make it slightly larger than plans, which made it
>much nicer. I have a feeling that Bolger or Payson messed with it
>until it was just right before BOlger drew the final plans. Keep
>mentioning the Nymph, I've got to get psyched to fix it!
>--- In bolger@y..., "proaconstrictor" <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
>snip
>> generally. I am loath to add wood strips, because I would have to
>> fasten them, and this late in the game don't have sufficient access
>> to inside to be sure I would get all the holes well enogh closed.
>> What I think I may do is make a pattern, and do that thing plasters
>> do to when they need to apply a cornice etc... I will whipe on the
>> keel in a series of passes, and when it has hardened, I will glass
>> it. That way it should prottect the boat against grounding also,
>and
>> it won't become a soggy mess when half worn off, as it might if it
>> were of wood.
>>
>>
>> --- In bolger@y..., "dbaldnz" <oink@p...> wrote:
>> > I'm not that overweight proa :)
>> > But
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
>MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
Mobile (646) 325-8325
Office (212) 247-0296
I should think it might be easier to just epoxy on the strips, with a
bunch of weight to hole them in place. You could use several thin wood
strips to build them up if you wanted to, in which case only the last
layer would be wet.
I have found, on the Nymph, that it is pretty helpful to have a
sufficient skeg, at least when my s.o. rows. Greatly increases the
time it takes to veer off course when you raise the oars. Ours was
slightly smaller than shown on plans at first, but was inadequate.
Added a piece to make it slightly larger than plans, which made it
much nicer. I have a feeling that Bolger or Payson messed with it
until it was just right before BOlger drew the final plans. Keep
mentioning the Nymph, I've got to get psyched to fix it!
bunch of weight to hole them in place. You could use several thin wood
strips to build them up if you wanted to, in which case only the last
layer would be wet.
I have found, on the Nymph, that it is pretty helpful to have a
sufficient skeg, at least when my s.o. rows. Greatly increases the
time it takes to veer off course when you raise the oars. Ours was
slightly smaller than shown on plans at first, but was inadequate.
Added a piece to make it slightly larger than plans, which made it
much nicer. I have a feeling that Bolger or Payson messed with it
until it was just right before BOlger drew the final plans. Keep
mentioning the Nymph, I've got to get psyched to fix it!
--- In bolger@y..., "proaconstrictor" <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
snip
> generally. I am loath to add wood strips, because I would have to
> fasten them, and this late in the game don't have sufficient access
> to inside to be sure I would get all the holes well enogh closed.
> What I think I may do is make a pattern, and do that thing plasters
> do to when they need to apply a cornice etc... I will whipe on the
> keel in a series of passes, and when it has hardened, I will glass
> it. That way it should prottect the boat against grounding also,
and
> it won't become a soggy mess when half worn off, as it might if it
> were of wood.
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "dbaldnz" <oink@p...> wrote:
> > I'm not that overweight proa :)
> > But
I guess I put my foot in that one.
I like the skeg I have on mine, and figure it has less resistance
than the strips.
I have to add some strips on the bottom of my cat hull, so that it
will grip a little better when I initiate a turn, and be less twitchy
generally. I am loath to add wood strips, because I would have to
fasten them, and this late in the game don't have sufficient access
to inside to be sure I would get all the holes well enogh closed.
What I think I may do is make a pattern, and do that thing plasters
do to when they need to apply a cornice etc... I will whipe on the
keel in a series of passes, and when it has hardened, I will glass
it. That way it should prottect the boat against grounding also, and
it won't become a soggy mess when half worn off, as it might if it
were of wood.
I like the skeg I have on mine, and figure it has less resistance
than the strips.
I have to add some strips on the bottom of my cat hull, so that it
will grip a little better when I initiate a turn, and be less twitchy
generally. I am loath to add wood strips, because I would have to
fasten them, and this late in the game don't have sufficient access
to inside to be sure I would get all the holes well enogh closed.
What I think I may do is make a pattern, and do that thing plasters
do to when they need to apply a cornice etc... I will whipe on the
keel in a series of passes, and when it has hardened, I will glass
it. That way it should prottect the boat against grounding also, and
it won't become a soggy mess when half worn off, as it might if it
were of wood.
--- In bolger@y..., "dbaldnz" <oink@p...> wrote:
> I'm not that overweight proa :)
> But
--- In bolger@y..., "dbaldnz" <oink@p...> wrote:
my personal impression. I wouldn't think one was needed on an
Elegant Punt.
Perhaps I "row with perfection". More likely it is because I weigh a
lot more than the folks who seem to need a skeg more. I know that my
Nymph looks like it has maybe 2-3 feet of boat in the water when my
daughter is on board alone. A skeg doesn't help all that much in her
case because the skeg is mostly out of the water unless she moves way
aft, then the bow is way up in the air catching the breeze.
In any case I think that the three strips on the bottom of the EP
should give adequate directional stability for most folks. But I
have only rowed an EP once and then only for a few minutes.
Pete
> I'm not that overweight proa :)with
> But it stands to reason that a very short flat bottom light boat
> no central lateral resistance needs a fin aft to keep her straight.I always found the need for skegs to be overstated, when compared to
> My punt was very squirrelly under oars....you had to row with
> pefection. The very small skeg made my oarsmanship look normal, no
> matter what the load.
> DonB
my personal impression. I wouldn't think one was needed on an
Elegant Punt.
Perhaps I "row with perfection". More likely it is because I weigh a
lot more than the folks who seem to need a skeg more. I know that my
Nymph looks like it has maybe 2-3 feet of boat in the water when my
daughter is on board alone. A skeg doesn't help all that much in her
case because the skeg is mostly out of the water unless she moves way
aft, then the bow is way up in the air catching the breeze.
In any case I think that the three strips on the bottom of the EP
should give adequate directional stability for most folks. But I
have only rowed an EP once and then only for a few minutes.
Pete
I'm not that overweight proa :)
But it stands to reason that a very short flat bottom light boat with
no central lateral resistance needs a fin aft to keep her straight.
My punt was very squirrelly under oars....you had to row with
pefection. The very small skeg made my oarsmanship look normal, no
matter what the load.
DonB
But it stands to reason that a very short flat bottom light boat with
no central lateral resistance needs a fin aft to keep her straight.
My punt was very squirrelly under oars....you had to row with
pefection. The very small skeg made my oarsmanship look normal, no
matter what the load.
DonB
--- In bolger@y..., "proaconstrictor" <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
> Tracking is also affected by displacement.
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "dbaldnz" <oink@p...> wrote:
> > That's interesting Jamie.
> > I found the tracking of my elegant punt was hugely improved with
> the
> > addition of a small skeg, bow up, bow down or wherever.
> >
Tracking is also affected by displacement.
--- In bolger@y..., "dbaldnz" <oink@p...> wrote:
> That's interesting Jamie.
> I found the tracking of my elegant punt was hugely improved with
the
> addition of a small skeg, bow up, bow down or wherever.
>
That's interesting Jamie.
I found the tracking of my elegant punt was hugely improved with the
addition of a small skeg, bow up, bow down or wherever.
DonB
I found the tracking of my elegant punt was hugely improved with the
addition of a small skeg, bow up, bow down or wherever.
DonB
--- In bolger@y..., "jas_orr" <jas_orr@y...> wrote:
> Elegant Punt rows fine as designed. Keep the bow up and she goes
as
> well as any 8 footer can.
>
> Jamie Orr
>
> --- In bolger@y..., Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...> wrote:
> > Does anyone in the group have experience with the E.
> > Punt and whether the boat needs a skeg to row well?
> > E.P. is a flat bottomed pram with two 1.5" by 3/4"
> > shoes in way of a keel. Seems to me this would keep
> > her running straight (rowing) with minimal attention,
> > but I have read elsewhere that others recommend a
> > hefty skeg. Now is the time to install a skeg if I'm
> > going to do it. Any help would be appreciated.
> > Thanks, Sam.
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free
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Elegant Punt rows fine as designed. Keep the bow up and she goes as
well as any 8 footer can.
Jamie Orr
well as any 8 footer can.
Jamie Orr
--- In bolger@y..., Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...> wrote:
> Does anyone in the group have experience with the E.
> Punt and whether the boat needs a skeg to row well?
> E.P. is a flat bottomed pram with two 1.5" by 3/4"
> shoes in way of a keel. Seems to me this would keep
> her running straight (rowing) with minimal attention,
> but I have read elsewhere that others recommend a
> hefty skeg. Now is the time to install a skeg if I'm
> going to do it. Any help would be appreciated.
> Thanks, Sam.
>
> __________________________________________________
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> Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free
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Thanks, David, and the others who have responded.
Bolger shows a skeg on the Nymph, but shoes and no
keel on the E. Punt. Some of the discussion on the
Payson site indicates that the Punt suffers from lack
of a skeg, but I will just put on the shoes. She is
to be a housetop dinghy for my Topaz, and the keel
would make it harder to draw her over the rail on the
Topaz. Sam
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Bolger shows a skeg on the Nymph, but shoes and no
keel on the E. Punt. Some of the discussion on the
Payson site indicates that the Punt suffers from lack
of a skeg, but I will just put on the shoes. She is
to be a housetop dinghy for my Topaz, and the keel
would make it harder to draw her over the rail on the
Topaz. Sam
> Sam,__________________________________________________
> I built a Bolger Nymph, which looks like a
> similar design. The
> skeg was very beneficial when rowing and towing. > >
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--- In bolger@y..., Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...> wrote:
Sam,
I built a Bolger Nymph, which looks like a similar design. The
skeg was very beneficial when rowing and towing. I hope that helps.
If Bolger designed it, then it is probably there for a reason. From
building Micro, I can assure you that Bolger has a rhyme or reason
for most things on his designs. The only thing I altered on Micro
was to add some substantial mooring gear in the way of a bow cleat
and chocks. I will also add an electrical system at some point as I
hate to come when early because it is getting dark.
Good Luck,
David Jost
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free
>http://sbc.yahoo.com
:
patterns, I never again looked at the book to finish it off and just
did what was done on the Nymph. With a skeg, she can be spun
effortlessly, but tracks nicely. I didn't do the bottom rails, but
would imagine they would work also. With this much rocker, she is
going to spin freely, and respond to any inequilibrium in rowing.
But I have never had any trouble holding her on course. I think the
skeg is potentially a little more fragile, though mine is well coved
on. Also it provides less protection to the flat bottom. The only
disadvantage to the rails is that they would be a fair bit more work,
depending on the level of finish. Possibly more drag also. I would
not add both, in a belt and braces way. Adding the skeg as an
afterthought would hardly be any more trouble than adding her now,
depending on your approach to paint.
> Does anyone in the group have experience with the E.I put a skeg on my EP, probably because after cutting out the
> Punt and whether the boat needs a skeg to row well?
> E.P. is a flat bottomed pram with two 1.5" by 3/4"
> shoes in way of a keel. Seems to me this would keep
> her running straight
patterns, I never again looked at the book to finish it off and just
did what was done on the Nymph. With a skeg, she can be spun
effortlessly, but tracks nicely. I didn't do the bottom rails, but
would imagine they would work also. With this much rocker, she is
going to spin freely, and respond to any inequilibrium in rowing.
But I have never had any trouble holding her on course. I think the
skeg is potentially a little more fragile, though mine is well coved
on. Also it provides less protection to the flat bottom. The only
disadvantage to the rails is that they would be a fair bit more work,
depending on the level of finish. Possibly more drag also. I would
not add both, in a belt and braces way. Adding the skeg as an
afterthought would hardly be any more trouble than adding her now,
depending on your approach to paint.
Does anyone in the group have experience with the E.
Punt and whether the boat needs a skeg to row well?
E.P. is a flat bottomed pram with two 1.5" by 3/4"
shoes in way of a keel. Seems to me this would keep
her running straight (rowing) with minimal attention,
but I have read elsewhere that others recommend a
hefty skeg. Now is the time to install a skeg if I'm
going to do it. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, Sam.
__________________________________________________
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Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free
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Punt and whether the boat needs a skeg to row well?
E.P. is a flat bottomed pram with two 1.5" by 3/4"
shoes in way of a keel. Seems to me this would keep
her running straight (rowing) with minimal attention,
but I have read elsewhere that others recommend a
hefty skeg. Now is the time to install a skeg if I'm
going to do it. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, Sam.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free
http://sbc.yahoo.com
In a message dated 7/5/02 1:10:43 AM Central Daylight Time,bobzonk@...
writes:
It's a pity I've never bothered to learn how to check out my e-mail when out
of town. If I'd received your advice on the 5th when it was posted, the job
would be done already. As it was I left the panel untouched and jury-rigged
the lights for the weekend.
In the case of my panel (West Marine "Economy 12V"), the "bus" function is
performed by spring-loaded, slip-on clips over tangs ("spades"?). The
intermediate clips are designed to take two wires, so that the clip itself
performs both the "bus" and distribution functions. The terminal clips on
each "bus" only accomodates one wire. I suppose that the neat way to do the
connection would be to replace one terminal clip on each of the "bus"
circuits with a two-wire clip. The jumpers between each clip are no longer
than necessary, however, so I don't know if they are long enough, assuming I
can find equivalent "two-wire" clips. "Some soldering may be required!" I
wonder why the the panel manufacturer did use a "two-wire" clips at one end
each of the "bus" circuits, with a short lead ("pigtail"?) for the battery
connections. Had it done so, I would have connected the panel to power and
figured out the light circuit connections from there.
As far as the negative ("ground") returns from the light circuits, is there
any reason why they shouldn't be connected directly to the battery? It would
be easy enough to run the panel negative, the running lights negative and the
anchor light negative to a common lug at the battery terminal. Connecting the
light circuit returns to the panel negative wire would require more
connections, which I think are to be avoided, when possible. Any
recommendations?
I had an interesting failure on the 4th. I was removing the positive primary
battery cable to the outboard motor when it broke off without the slightest
provocation. I had inspected the lug this Spring, when I gave the positive
battery terminal an inspection and brisk scrub with baking soda to remove
some corrosion. I'd removed and re-attached the cable from the battery at
least a few times in the course of relocating the battery and futzing about
with the wiring and did not detect any problems. Indeed the surfaces of the
broken lug showed no sign of corrosion, with the exception of the fracture
surface, which obviously failed because of corrosion. It was fortunate that
it happed at dock, but rather sobering to learn that mere visual inspection
of a battery teminal cable lug is no assurance of its condition!
Anyway, thanks ever so much for your instructions!
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
writes:
> Hope this is clear. Sounds like you might have to solder some wires on toTHANK YOU, BOB!!
> be
> able to make the connections to the battery.
>
> Bob
>
It's a pity I've never bothered to learn how to check out my e-mail when out
of town. If I'd received your advice on the 5th when it was posted, the job
would be done already. As it was I left the panel untouched and jury-rigged
the lights for the weekend.
In the case of my panel (West Marine "Economy 12V"), the "bus" function is
performed by spring-loaded, slip-on clips over tangs ("spades"?). The
intermediate clips are designed to take two wires, so that the clip itself
performs both the "bus" and distribution functions. The terminal clips on
each "bus" only accomodates one wire. I suppose that the neat way to do the
connection would be to replace one terminal clip on each of the "bus"
circuits with a two-wire clip. The jumpers between each clip are no longer
than necessary, however, so I don't know if they are long enough, assuming I
can find equivalent "two-wire" clips. "Some soldering may be required!" I
wonder why the the panel manufacturer did use a "two-wire" clips at one end
each of the "bus" circuits, with a short lead ("pigtail"?) for the battery
connections. Had it done so, I would have connected the panel to power and
figured out the light circuit connections from there.
As far as the negative ("ground") returns from the light circuits, is there
any reason why they shouldn't be connected directly to the battery? It would
be easy enough to run the panel negative, the running lights negative and the
anchor light negative to a common lug at the battery terminal. Connecting the
light circuit returns to the panel negative wire would require more
connections, which I think are to be avoided, when possible. Any
recommendations?
I had an interesting failure on the 4th. I was removing the positive primary
battery cable to the outboard motor when it broke off without the slightest
provocation. I had inspected the lug this Spring, when I gave the positive
battery terminal an inspection and brisk scrub with baking soda to remove
some corrosion. I'd removed and re-attached the cable from the battery at
least a few times in the course of relocating the battery and futzing about
with the wiring and did not detect any problems. Indeed the surfaces of the
broken lug showed no sign of corrosion, with the exception of the fracture
surface, which obviously failed because of corrosion. It was fortunate that
it happed at dock, but rather sobering to learn that mere visual inspection
of a battery teminal cable lug is no assurance of its condition!
Anyway, thanks ever so much for your instructions!
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Bill,
As luck would have it, I just removed a very similar panel from the small
sailboat I am rehabbing. On the one I have, the three fuses are tied together
with a copper strip (where you show red wire) and likewise the connected sides
of the switches are jumpered with another strip. The ends of these busbar
strips is just the right size for a crimp terminal fitting to slide over. It
sounds like yours does not have these. In any case, connect your positive
battery terminal to the red wire side of the fuses ( the top of your drawing).
The negative battery terminal goes to the black wire side of the switches, and
here also go all the negative leads of your circuits. The plus sides of your
circuits go to the switch terminals (Z in your drawing).
The switch ST is a battery test switch, just gives a reading of the voltage.
Hope this is clear. Sounds like you might have to solder some wires on to be
able to make the connections to the battery.
Bob
As luck would have it, I just removed a very similar panel from the small
sailboat I am rehabbing. On the one I have, the three fuses are tied together
with a copper strip (where you show red wire) and likewise the connected sides
of the switches are jumpered with another strip. The ends of these busbar
strips is just the right size for a crimp terminal fitting to slide over. It
sounds like yours does not have these. In any case, connect your positive
battery terminal to the red wire side of the fuses ( the top of your drawing).
The negative battery terminal goes to the black wire side of the switches, and
here also go all the negative leads of your circuits. The plus sides of your
circuits go to the switch terminals (Z in your drawing).
The switch ST is a battery test switch, just gives a reading of the voltage.
Hope this is clear. Sounds like you might have to solder some wires on to be
able to make the connections to the battery.
Bob
>
> + + + + + + + + + + + + + <-------Positive Battery
> + + + + +
> + + + + +
> F + F F F
> + + + + +
> + + + + +
> C V SL SL SL
> x * Z Z Z <----three circuits positive leads
> x * x x x
> x ST x x x
> x-----x-----x-----x-----x <-----Negative Battery & circuits tied together
>
> "+" = red wiring
> "x" & "--" = black wiring
> "*" = red jumper between "ST" and "V"
> "F" = fuse
> "C" = 12V socket (cigarette lighter)
> "V" = voltmeter (evidently in circuit only when "ST" is pressed.)
> "SL" = illuminated light switch (3 - "navigation", "anchor" & "cabin")
> "Z" = bare third electrical connection on "SL"
> "ST" = test switch for voltmeter
>