Re: Hi

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "ronin7015" <ronin7015@...> wrote:
>
> Hello all, Im new here (obviously) and was wondering what is usually considered the best starter boat to try to build. I have basic hand and power tools and some basic carpentry skills, and of course a strong desire to learn. Thanks
>

>...built a model, as suggested...built a model...built a model.  Then i built (full size)

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> Hello all, Im new here (obviously) and was wondering what is usually considered the best starter boat to try to build. I have basic hand and power tools and some basic carpentry skills, and of course a strong desire to learn. Thanks
>

On Sun, Jan 10, 2010 at 8:32 PM, ronin7015<ronin7015@...>wrote:

Hello all, Im new here (obviously) and was wondering what is usually considered the best starter boat to try to build. I have basic hand and power tools and some basic carpentry skills, and of course a strong desire to learn. Thanks

I think Junebug  would be a good choice. It's cheap and easy to build and rows and sails. I gave mine a transom I could mount a small outboard motor on and made a battery compartment under the center seat so I could use an inexpensive electric trolling motor. This was my favorite way of using Junebug. I could quietly go up and down my beaver dammed creek or along a lake shore, observing while not frightening any animals. I put a 3/8 inch bottom on my Junebug because I had to drag it over rocks. It still was car topable. I once took Junebug straight across the middle of Lake Vermilion in northern Minnesota. There was a two foot chop and a stiff wind -- all the power boats were hugging the shoreline -- but with my son and me in the boat and a 2 horse Johnson, we shipped only one cup of water over 5 miles travel at hull speed. She floated like a duck and took the beam seas in stride.

Fred

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "ronin7015" <ronin7015@...> wrote:
>
> Hello all, Im new here (obviously) and was wondering what is usually considered the best starter boat to try to build. I have basic hand and power tools and some basic carpentry skills, and of course a strong desire to learn. Thanks
>

>
> Hello all, Im new here (obviously) and was wondering what is usually considered the best starter boat to try to build. I have basic hand and power tools and some basic carpentry skills, and of course a strong desire to learn. Thanks
>

>
> There is a copy of Folding Schooner on ebay at
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1550887481.Current
> bid is $1.99. Auction ends Jul-26-02 17:28:51 PDT. Only $1.85 shipping
> too. Amazon has them starting at $60 and running up to $115.
>
> I just received my copy this week. I paid $45, plus about $5 for
> shipping. Oh well, we'll see what this one goes for. I hope one of you
> gets it.
>
> Stew
>
>

> Is there any way to view the designs on line that are listed in
> the Bolger web site?

>
> The question of trailerability aside, the best small motorsailer
> designs that I know of are:
>
> Pilothouse 26 by Scott Sprague (see www.boatdesigns.com)
> Coaster by Glen-L (seehttp://www.glen-l.com/)
> Miss Congeniality (19') by Tom MacNaughton see
> (http://www.macnaughtongroup.com/miss19.htm)The Silver Gull 28 at
> this site could also be considered.
>
>
>
> Peter
>
>

> Lesson Learned:
>
> After college I had a brief stint as a deckhand on a
> small oil tanker
> (280ft.) that served the new york area. To make a
> long story,
> short... the first lesson I learned was to never
> stand directly
> behind a line that is under tension. (Luckily I
> learned this lesson
> the easy way, as a direct order from the captain.)
> If they part, they
> will always travel directly backwards. Always stand
> away from and to
> the side of a line under stress regardless of the
> material it is made
> of!!
>
> Ask anybody employeed in the shipping industry,
> especially tugboats,
> and they will tell you one horror story or another
> about someone who
> was severly injured or killed by a parting line. A
> towing hawser,
> when snapped, can generate enough force to pierce 1"
> thick steel.
>
> Tom
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., jhkohnen@b... wrote:
> > On Sun, 14 Jul 2002 16:58:42 EDT, Bill in Minn.
> wrote:
> > > In a message dated 7/13/02 8:00:12 AM Central
> Daylight Time,
> > > pvanderw@o... writes:
> > >
> > >
> > > > Use a low stretch line!
> > > >
> > > > Peter
> > > >
> > >
> > > And this would be safer, because ... ?
> > >
> > > My 2 cents:
> > >
> > > Given equal tensile strength, both high-stretch
> and low-stretch
> ropes would
> > > have stored up equal strain energy before they
> fail and would
> release the
> > > same amount of energy upon fracture. Would the
> ends a parting
> steel or
> > kevlar
> > > or whatever line be any less dangerous than
> those of a nylon one?
> > > ...
> >
> > So, you're saying that if you're going to make a
> slingshot a piece
> of kevlar
> > rope should work as well as a piece of surgical
> rubber. I'll stick
> to the
> > rubber.
> >
> > In small sizes nylon rope isn't itself very
> dangerous when it
> parts, it'll
> > just smart when it hits you. The frequently heard
> horror story is
> using nylon
> > for a tow rope and having the cleat on one end
> come loose, sending
> it hurtling
> > back at whoever's on the other end of the rope!
> Now that's
> dangerous...
> >
> > My cousin had to remove a big hemlock shrub from
> somebody's yard
> once. He
> > figured he could yank it out easily enough with
> his 4wd pickup, so
> he tied a
> > stout nylon rope to the bush and hooked the other
> end to his back
> bumper. The
> > rope stretched, the pickup struggled for traction,
> the bush didn't
> budge
> > (hemlock bushes have _very_ strong root systems)--
> then something
> gave and the
> > pickup started to move! My cousin looked in the
> rear view mirror
> and there was
> > the bush-- rapidly getting bigger! It slammed into
> the back of the
> cab,
> > sending dirt and needles through the open sliding
> window. He didn't
> have to
> > pick it up and load it into the truck, it was
> already there. I hope
> he kept
> > his wits and acted like he'd planned it that way.
> <g>
> >
> > If I was going to use the "rope" method I'd lose
> the rope and use
> cable or
> > chain anyway, for the resistance to abrasion.
> >
> > --
> > John <jkohnen@b...>
> >
>http://www.boat-links.com/
> > They that can give up essential liberty to
> obtain a little
> temporary safety
> > deserve neither liberty nor safety.
> <Benjamin Franklin>
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>
> Bolger rules!!!
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> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed,
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> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box
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>
>

> I believe we had an aluminum Teal build by a list member.

> >anyone built or investigated building these in Aluminum?
> >If so how is the weight as compaired to plywood / fillets / glass
> >tape?

>
> >Has anyone intigrated a trailer into the boat design or used the

> >for the structure of the trailer and just attached the wheels and
> >tongue to the hull?

> On Wednesday 17 July 2002 10:59, Sam Glasscock wrote:
> > I just took my kids to the Crocodile Hunter
> > movie. According to the movie, all Australian
> > vehicles have a snorkel, presumably for intake and
> > exhaust. Thus, for Aussies, launching is easy--back
> > into six feet or so of water, and you can launch a
> > Friendship sloop, let alone a Micro. Tomorrow I will
> > ask my local Saturn dealer to retro-fit a snorkel on
> > the '93 coupe, and I will be all set. Sam
>
> I haven't seen the movie, but this is not a joke. The snorkel
> is standard on most serious 4WDs in Australia (ie the sort of
> 4WD which is actually designed to go offroad). I have never
> seen one on a coupe though...
>
> --
> They usually attach to a low down air filter,and if the seal is

> Wow, all this talk about high and dry. I thought my ramp was bad .

> drive my pickup all the way up over the exhaust to get my micro in.
>
> How about a snorkel for the exhaust? ;) Just dive in unless there's
> just to many obstacles to do so.
>
> I also seen a telescopic tongue to get the boat down the ramp
>
> Todd
>

> Hey Sakari, super. I've liked that design since I first saw it. Where
> are you? Did you build her to plans or did you make any changes?,
> what engine? how's she go? I'll echo Mike's plea for photos though:
> Photos, Photos, Photos, Please, Please, Please.
>
> Bruce Hector

> In a message dated 18-07-02 5:28:13 AM E. Australia Standard Time,
> tomtlam@a... writes:
>
>
> > Hello, I'm new to your group and am interested in these designs.

> > anyone built or investigated building these in Aluminum?
> > If so how is the weight as compaired to plywood / fillets / glass
> > tape?
> > Is there a good design for a max trailerable pilot house

> > with an inboard diesel?
> > Has anyone intigrated a trailer into the boat design or used the

> > for the structure of the trailer and just attached the wheels and
> > tongue to the hull?

> Hello, I'm new to your group and am interested in these designs. Has
> anyone built or investigated building these in Aluminum?
> If so how is the weight as compaired to plywood / fillets / glass
> tape?
> Is there a good design for a max trailerable pilot house motersailer
> with an inboard diesel?
> Has anyone intigrated a trailer into the boat design or used the boat
> for the structure of the trailer and just attached the wheels and
> tongue to the hull?
>
>

--- In bolger@y..., "ss_comet" <tomtlam@a...> wrote:
> Hi again, looking thru some of the messages and thought I would add
> my 2cents worth on lines, cables and stretch. Nylon as we all know
> has a lot of stretch and therefor makes like a rubber band when it
> fails. Note that all materials can and will fail. Steel while not
as
> stretching as nylon will bend and stretch a lot ( when a ship hits
a
> large wave it will bounce like a diving board) and a steel wire
rope
> or cable when it fails is not easily stopped and has a terrible
> amount of energy. It may not go as far as the nylon but if your in
> the way you will be removed. This just happen on a ship I was on
> prior to my getting on when a mooring cable failed, removed a leg.
> Low stretch line used for halyards doesn't stretch as much and
there
> for would rebound less.
>
> Regards, Tom TomTlam@a...
>
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., wmrpage@a... wrote:
> > In a message dated 7/14/02 5:47:33 PM Central Daylight Time,
> > pvanderw@o... writes:
> >
> >
> > > am out of my depth as to the physics/engineering of this
> situation,
> > > but I have to believe that elasticity is a bad thing in this
> here. If
> >
> > I am also out of my depth, and but willing to be educated.
> >
> > However, all materials used in tension are "elastic" to some
> extent, i.e.
> > they all stretch to sustain the force applied. They are "elastic"
> to the
> > extent that they revert to their previous length when the force
is
> released.
> > They cease to be "elastic" when the force applied exceeds a
certain
> level,
> > when they permanently deform, (e.g. "stretch-formed" aluminum
boat
> > construction) or fracture (e.g. your mother's china).
> >
> > I've never witnessed a tension failure of any line in operation.
I
> was
> > warned, in my youth, about the dangers of parting steel cables by
a
> sort of
> > relative employed by a tugboat company. Steel cables are
> as "elastic" as, say
> > nylon, but the extent to which they elongate before exceeding
their
> elastic
> > limit is much less.
> >
> > The mechanics of how the energy of a line that fails under
tension
> is
> > dissipated are beyond my knowledge. I suspect it is possible that
> some
> > low-stretch lines may fail in such a way that the energy is
> dissipated in a
> > manner other than acceleration of the severed ends, so that the
> failure of
> > such a line might be less dangerous than the failure of a nylon
or
> steel
> > cable, but I wouldn't volunteer to be a test subject!
> >
> > Ciao for Niao,
> > Bill in MN
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> Is there a good design for a max trailerable pilot house

>Hello, I'm new to your group and am interested in these designs. Has
>anyone built or investigated building these in Aluminum?
>If so how is the weight as compaired to plywood / fillets / glass
>tape?
>Is there a good design for a max trailerable pilot house motersailer
>with an inboard diesel?
>Has anyone intigrated a trailer into the boat design or used the boat
>for the structure of the trailer and just attached the wheels and
>tongue to the hull?
>
>Regards, Tom
>
>
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
>MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

--- In bolger@y..., wmrpage@a... wrote:
> In a message dated 7/14/02 5:47:33 PM Central Daylight Time,
> pvanderw@o... writes:
>
>
> > am out of my depth as to the physics/engineering of this
situation,
> > but I have to believe that elasticity is a bad thing in this
here. If
>
> I am also out of my depth, and but willing to be educated.
>
> However, all materials used in tension are "elastic" to some
extent, i.e.
> they all stretch to sustain the force applied. They are "elastic"
to the
> extent that they revert to their previous length when the force is
released.
> They cease to be "elastic" when the force applied exceeds a certain
level,
> when they permanently deform, (e.g. "stretch-formed" aluminum boat
> construction) or fracture (e.g. your mother's china).
>
> I've never witnessed a tension failure of any line in operation. I
was
> warned, in my youth, about the dangers of parting steel cables by a
sort of
> relative employed by a tugboat company. Steel cables are
as "elastic" as, say
> nylon, but the extent to which they elongate before exceeding their
elastic
> limit is much less.
>
> The mechanics of how the energy of a line that fails under tension
is
> dissipated are beyond my knowledge. I suspect it is possible that
some
> low-stretch lines may fail in such a way that the energy is
dissipated in a
> manner other than acceleration of the severed ends, so that the
failure of
> such a line might be less dangerous than the failure of a nylon or
steel
> cable, but I wouldn't volunteer to be a test subject!
>
> Ciao for Niao,
> Bill in MN
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> From: dnjost [mailto:djost@...]
>
> Paul,
> I will be in Chatham during the first two weeks of August if you
> want to join us for a sail/launch. I like the trailer I have, it
> just needs a little modification to make it even better.
>

--- In bolger@y..., wmrpage@a... wrote:
snip
>
> I am also out of my depth, and but willing to be educated.
>
> However, all materials used in tension are "elastic" to some extent,
i.e.
> they all stretch to sustain the force applied. They are "elastic" to
the
> extent that they revert to their previous length when the force is
released.
> They cease to be "elastic" when the force applied exceeds a certain
level,
> when they permanently deform, (e.g. "stretch-formed" aluminum boat
> construction) or fracture (e.g. your mother's china).
>
> I've never witnessed a tension failure of any line in operation. I
was
> warned, in my youth, about the dangers of parting steel cables by a
sort of
> relative employed by a tugboat company. Steel cables are as
"elastic" as, say
> nylon, but the extent to which they elongate before exceeding their
elastic
> limit is much less.
>
> The mechanics of how the energy of a line that fails under tension
is
> dissipated are beyond my knowledge. I suspect it is possible that
some
> low-stretch lines may fail in such a way that the energy is
dissipated in a
> manner other than acceleration of the severed ends, so that the
failure of
> such a line might be less dangerous than the failure of a nylon or
steel
> cable, but I wouldn't volunteer to be a test subject!
>
> Ciao for Niao,
> Bill in MN
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> The extension tongue only takes about 2 minutes to hook up and
> unhook. It really is no bother at all.

> If the launch ramp where he is trying to put his micro in the water
> is anything like the launch ramps we have on Long Island, he is
> better off staying as far away from the waters edge as possible. Most
> of the older ramps around here are made of wood and the newer ones at
> the state parks are cement. Both of these materials make great
> anchors for algae and various other forms of extremely slippery when
> wet vegetation. In these conditions it is highly advisable to keep
> the wheels of the tow vehicle as dry as possible. Not even 4 wheel
> drive can keep you from sliding on wet algae. Also the saltwater
> would make quick work of any car, truck, or van undercarriage.
>
> Tom

--- In bolger@y..., Sakari Aaltonen <sakari@a...> wrote:
> My Cabin Clam Skiff (Design #606-II) was launched on July 8.
>
> Sakari Aaltonen

> If there is no stretch there
> is no distance and therefore no energy stored to be released.

> am out of my depth as to the physics/engineering of this situation,
> but I have to believe that elasticity is a bad thing in this here. If

> I don't know about this story, but when I was younger my uncle got the
> bright idea to use fertilizer and diesel to blow a stump out of the
> ground.

> I just took my kids to the Crocodile Hunter
> movie. According to the movie, all Australian
> vehicles have a snorkel, presumably for intake and
> exhaust. Thus, for Aussies, launching is easy--back
> into six feet or so of water, and you can launch a
> Friendship sloop, let alone a Micro. Tomorrow I will
> ask my local Saturn dealer to retro-fit a snorkel on
> the '93 coupe, and I will be all set. Sam

> BTW, for those who do back in too far and lose the
> engine, in some
> cases where a little noise can be excused, it might
> be easier to
> loosen up an exhaust connection than to wait for a
> tow. Loud, though,
> and the ease of doing this probably depends a lot on
> the exact
> particulars of the vehicle and how much corrosion
> has occured since
> that particular bolt has been loosened. If you're a
> real pessimist,
> drill a couple of holes upstream and keep them
> filled with sheet metal
> screws treated with anti seize. Only for junkers, of
> course.
>

On Mon, 15 Jul 2002 16:11:47 EDT, Howard wrote:
> In a message dated 15-07-02 7:08:52 PM E. Australia Standard Time,
>jhkohnen@...writes:
>
>
> > )-- then something gave and the
> > pickup started to move! My cousin looked in the rear view mirror and there
> > was
> > the bush-- rapidly getting bigger! It slammed into the back of the cab,
> > sending dirt and needles through the open sliding window
>
>
> Did this really happen or was it from an episode of "Home Improvements"?
>
> Howard

--
John <jkohnen@...>
http://www.boat-links.com/
Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing -- absolute nothing --
half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. Simply
messing... about in boats -- or with boats. In or out of 'em, it doesn't
matter. Nothing seems really to matter, that's the charm of it. Whether you
get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your destination or
whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never get anywhere at all,
you're always busy, and you never do anything in particular; and when
you've done it there's always something else to do, and you can do it if
you like, but you'd much better not. <Water Rat>

> >All of this trailer talk made me wonder if you considered keeping

> >micro in the water for the entire season. Is it worth the hassle

> >potential danger of modifying your existing trailer? If the boat

> >left in a boat slip or tied to a mooring, your trailer woes would

> >reduced to twice a year.
> >
> >However, by leaving the boat in the water, you negate the purpose

> >building a trailerable day sailer.
> >
> >Tom
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >--- In bolger@y..., "cwgriesel" <cwgriesel@h...> wrote:
> >> Just as an aside. I personally shudder at the thought of

> >> extension to a trailer tongue unless you really do it well.

> >> seen a couple home-made attempts at modifying trailer tongues

> >I
> >> wouldn't want to be driving down the highway with. Here in
> >> Minnesota, with a public boat ramp every couple miles, it is

> >> unusual to find a situation where you need an extension. There

> >a
> >> pretty standard ramp configuration. Unless your trailer/boat is
> >way
> >> different from a standard setup, the ramps around here are easy

> >> navigate by getting the rear tire a little wet and nothing more.
> >> Maybe your trailer bed is too high? For me, extensions would

> >> last resort.
> >>
> >> But it is possible that different parts of the country launch

> >> in different ways. I remember as a kid when my parents bought

> >> first boat. They were from Oklahoma so this boat concept was

> >to
> >> them. We spent our first outing having a picnic next to the

> >> ramp so we could observe how everyone else launched their boats
> >> before we made any attempt at launching ours! It seems people
> >launch
> >> boats in the fashion that they observe around them.
> >
> >
> >
> >Bolger rules!!!
> >- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> >- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'

> >- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and

> >- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
> >MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> >- Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> >- Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@y...
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

>
>
> C.E.P.
> 415 W.46th Street
> New York, New York 10036
>http://www.crumblingempire.com
> Mobile (646) 325-8325
> Office (212) 247-0296

>All of this trailer talk made me wonder if you considered keeping the
>micro in the water for the entire season. Is it worth the hassle and
>potential danger of modifying your existing trailer? If the boat was
>left in a boat slip or tied to a mooring, your trailer woes would be
>reduced to twice a year.
>
>However, by leaving the boat in the water, you negate the purpose of
>building a trailerable day sailer.
>
>Tom
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>--- In bolger@y..., "cwgriesel" <cwgriesel@h...> wrote:
>> Just as an aside. I personally shudder at the thought of adding an
>> extension to a trailer tongue unless you really do it well. I've
>> seen a couple home-made attempts at modifying trailer tongues that
>I
>> wouldn't want to be driving down the highway with. Here in
>> Minnesota, with a public boat ramp every couple miles, it is pretty
>> unusual to find a situation where you need an extension. There is
>a
>> pretty standard ramp configuration. Unless your trailer/boat is
>way
>> different from a standard setup, the ramps around here are easy to
>> navigate by getting the rear tire a little wet and nothing more.
>> Maybe your trailer bed is too high? For me, extensions would be a
>> last resort.
>>
>> But it is possible that different parts of the country launch boats
>> in different ways. I remember as a kid when my parents bought our
>> first boat. They were from Oklahoma so this boat concept was new
>to
>> them. We spent our first outing having a picnic next to the boat
>> ramp so we could observe how everyone else launched their boats
>> before we made any attempt at launching ours! It seems people
>launch
>> boats in the fashion that they observe around them.
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
>MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

> How about the simple solution of letting the air out of the
> tires? Wal-Mart sells steel air tanks for something like $20 that

> used to re-inflate the tires.

>All of this trailer talk made me wonder if you considered keeping the
>micro in the water for the entire season. Is it worth the hassle and
>potential danger of modifying your existing trailer? If the boat was
>left in a boat slip or tied to a mooring, your trailer woes would be
>reduced to twice a year.
>
>However, by leaving the boat in the water, you negate the purpose of
>building a trailerable day sailer.
>
>Tom
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>--- In bolger@y..., "cwgriesel" <cwgriesel@h...> wrote:
> > Just as an aside. I personally shudder at the thought of adding an
> > extension to a trailer tongue unless you really do it well. I've
> > seen a couple home-made attempts at modifying trailer tongues that
>I
> > wouldn't want to be driving down the highway with. Here in
> > Minnesota, with a public boat ramp every couple miles, it is pretty
> > unusual to find a situation where you need an extension. There is
>a
> > pretty standard ramp configuration. Unless your trailer/boat is
>way
> > different from a standard setup, the ramps around here are easy to
> > navigate by getting the rear tire a little wet and nothing more.
> > Maybe your trailer bed is too high? For me, extensions would be a
> > last resort.
> >
> > But it is possible that different parts of the country launch boats
> > in different ways. I remember as a kid when my parents bought our
> > first boat. They were from Oklahoma so this boat concept was new
>to
> > them. We spent our first outing having a picnic next to the boat
> > ramp so we could observe how everyone else launched their boats
> > before we made any attempt at launching ours! It seems people
>launch
> > boats in the fashion that they observe around them.
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
>01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

--- In bolger@y..., "cwgriesel" <cwgriesel@h...> wrote:
> Just as an aside. I personally shudder at the thought of adding an
> extension to a trailer tongue unless you really do it well. I've
> seen a couple home-made attempts at modifying trailer tongues that
I
> wouldn't want to be driving down the highway with. Here in
> Minnesota, with a public boat ramp every couple miles, it is pretty
> unusual to find a situation where you need an extension. There is
a
> pretty standard ramp configuration. Unless your trailer/boat is
way
> different from a standard setup, the ramps around here are easy to
> navigate by getting the rear tire a little wet and nothing more.
> Maybe your trailer bed is too high? For me, extensions would be a
> last resort.
>
> But it is possible that different parts of the country launch boats
> in different ways. I remember as a kid when my parents bought our
> first boat. They were from Oklahoma so this boat concept was new
to
> them. We spent our first outing having a picnic next to the boat
> ramp so we could observe how everyone else launched their boats
> before we made any attempt at launching ours! It seems people
launch
> boats in the fashion that they observe around them.

>You can put the exhaust under water, no problem. In fact, I do that pretty
>much every time to launch, back in till the boat floats off the drive up.
>For retrieval, I winch it onto the boat, usualy takes longer, and easier to
>control where it goes than trying to float it on top of the trailer and pull
>the assembly up and HOPE it drops down onto the right spot.
>
>Just how shallow is your ramp? I've launched in ramps where the water was
>over the front tires by 12 inches. You really won't run into problems till
>the fan starts throwing water onto the engine.
>
>Think about it, driving down the road in a rainstorm, you are getting water
>thrown everywhere, you might as well dip in in the lake once in awhile.
>
>:-)
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "dnjost" <djost@...>
>To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2002 2:19 PM
>Subject: [bolger] Re: Micro high and dry: extension tongue?
>
>
> > Well, I guess I should respond to this.
> >
> > I don't own a hummer. The four inches I need assumes that I have not
> > gone back any further than the exhaust pipe will allow me to.
> >
> > Also, my trailer is a bunk trailer. Therefore, I could give her a
> > good push and get her off, but the problem becomes getting her back
> > on. The bunks would then be floating higher than the hull itself and
> > make for a lot of stress and strain on the winch, cable, bow
> > fittings, and hull itself. It is always best to put as little stress
> > on these items as necessary.
> >
> > My laminated 2X4 with hitch attached works great. I lash it in place
> > with dacron braid and it is cleated to the 2X4. this prevents
> > jackknifing when going backwards, and does away with the snapping
> > cable problem on retreive. So far so good.
> >
> > David Jost
> >
> >
> > > He says he needs 4 more inches of depth to float the boat. Unless
> > he
> > > is already flooding the floor pans of his vehicle, I can't imagine
> > a
> > > situation where driving the vehicle in until he has four more
> > inches
> > > of depth would hurt anything.
> > >
> > > Besides, it is never the practice around here to float a boat off
> > of
> > > a trailer. I'd say drive in two inches deeper and then give a good
> > > push, it would be off in no time if the ramp has any angle to it.
> > It
> > > probably wouldn't even need a push, just coming to a sharp stop is
> > > usually enough to get the boat to slide down those last couple of
> > > inches. I don't really see the problem.
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
>01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
>01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

----- Original Message -----
From: "trund1024" <trund1024@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2002 2:27 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Micro high and dry: extension tongue?


> If the launch ramp where he is trying to put his micro in the water
> is anything like the launch ramps we have on Long Island, he is
> better off staying as far away from the waters edge as possible. Most
> of the older ramps around here are made of wood and the newer ones at
> the state parks are cement. Both of these materials make great
> anchors for algae and various other forms of extremely slippery when
> wet vegetation. In these conditions it is highly advisable to keep
> the wheels of the tow vehicle as dry as possible. Not even 4 wheel
> drive can keep you from sliding on wet algae. Also the saltwater
> would make quick work of any car, truck, or van undercarriage.
>
> Tom
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "dnjost" <djost@m...> wrote:
> > Well, I guess I should respond to this.
> >
> > I don't own a hummer. The four inches I need assumes that I have
> not
> > gone back any further than the exhaust pipe will allow me to.
> >
> > Also, my trailer is a bunk trailer. Therefore, I could give her a
> > good push and get her off, but the problem becomes getting her back
> > on. The bunks would then be floating higher than the hull itself
> and
> > make for a lot of stress and strain on the winch, cable, bow
> > fittings, and hull itself. It is always best to put as little
> stress
> > on these items as necessary.
> >
> > My laminated 2X4 with hitch attached works great. I lash it in
> place
> > with dacron braid and it is cleated to the 2X4. this prevents
> > jackknifing when going backwards, and does away with the snapping
> > cable problem on retreive. So far so good.
> >
> > David Jost
> >
> >
> > > He says he needs 4 more inches of depth to float the boat.
> Unless
> > he
> > > is already flooding the floor pans of his vehicle, I can't
> imagine
> > a
> > > situation where driving the vehicle in until he has four more
> > inches
> > > of depth would hurt anything.
> > >
> > > Besides, it is never the practice around here to float a boat off
> > of
> > > a trailer. I'd say drive in two inches deeper and then give a
> good
> > > push, it would be off in no time if the ramp has any angle to
> it.
> > It
> > > probably wouldn't even need a push, just coming to a sharp stop
> is
> > > usually enough to get the boat to slide down those last couple of
> > > inches. I don't really see the problem.
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>

----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Spelling" <richard@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2002 1:42 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Micro high and dry: extension tongue?


> Point. Everything here is fresh water, no tides. No algae to speek of, 2
> feet from the water line dry concrete.
> I retract my advice to back into the water.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "trund1024" <trund1024@...>
> To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2002 2:27 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Micro high and dry: extension tongue?
>
>
> > If the launch ramp where he is trying to put his micro in the water
> > is anything like the launch ramps we have on Long Island, he is
> > better off staying as far away from the waters edge as possible. Most
> > of the older ramps around here are made of wood and the newer ones at
> > the state parks are cement. Both of these materials make great
> > anchors for algae and various other forms of extremely slippery when
> > wet vegetation. In these conditions it is highly advisable to keep
> > the wheels of the tow vehicle as dry as possible. Not even 4 wheel
> > drive can keep you from sliding on wet algae. Also the saltwater
> > would make quick work of any car, truck, or van undercarriage.
> >
> > Tom
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In bolger@y..., "dnjost" <djost@m...> wrote:
> > > Well, I guess I should respond to this.
> > >
> > > I don't own a hummer. The four inches I need assumes that I have
> > not
> > > gone back any further than the exhaust pipe will allow me to.
> > >
> > > Also, my trailer is a bunk trailer. Therefore, I could give her a
> > > good push and get her off, but the problem becomes getting her back
> > > on. The bunks would then be floating higher than the hull itself
> > and
> > > make for a lot of stress and strain on the winch, cable, bow
> > > fittings, and hull itself. It is always best to put as little
> > stress
> > > on these items as necessary.
> > >
> > > My laminated 2X4 with hitch attached works great. I lash it in
> > place
> > > with dacron braid and it is cleated to the 2X4. this prevents
> > > jackknifing when going backwards, and does away with the snapping
> > > cable problem on retreive. So far so good.
> > >
> > > David Jost
> > >
> > >
> > > > He says he needs 4 more inches of depth to float the boat.
> > Unless
> > > he
> > > > is already flooding the floor pans of his vehicle, I can't
> > imagine
> > > a
> > > > situation where driving the vehicle in until he has four more
> > > inches
> > > > of depth would hurt anything.
> > > >
> > > > Besides, it is never the practice around here to float a boat off
> > > of
> > > > a trailer. I'd say drive in two inches deeper and then give a
> > good
> > > > push, it would be off in no time if the ramp has any angle to
> > it.
> > > It
> > > > probably wouldn't even need a push, just coming to a sharp stop
> > is
> > > > usually enough to get the boat to slide down those last couple of
> > > > inches. I don't really see the problem.
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>

----- Original Message -----
From: "dnjost" <djost@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2002 2:19 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Micro high and dry: extension tongue?


> Well, I guess I should respond to this.
>
> I don't own a hummer. The four inches I need assumes that I have not
> gone back any further than the exhaust pipe will allow me to.
>
> Also, my trailer is a bunk trailer. Therefore, I could give her a
> good push and get her off, but the problem becomes getting her back
> on. The bunks would then be floating higher than the hull itself and
> make for a lot of stress and strain on the winch, cable, bow
> fittings, and hull itself. It is always best to put as little stress
> on these items as necessary.
>
> My laminated 2X4 with hitch attached works great. I lash it in place
> with dacron braid and it is cleated to the 2X4. this prevents
> jackknifing when going backwards, and does away with the snapping
> cable problem on retreive. So far so good.
>
> David Jost
>
>
> > He says he needs 4 more inches of depth to float the boat. Unless
> he
> > is already flooding the floor pans of his vehicle, I can't imagine
> a
> > situation where driving the vehicle in until he has four more
> inches
> > of depth would hurt anything.
> >
> > Besides, it is never the practice around here to float a boat off
> of
> > a trailer. I'd say drive in two inches deeper and then give a good
> > push, it would be off in no time if the ramp has any angle to it.
> It
> > probably wouldn't even need a push, just coming to a sharp stop is
> > usually enough to get the boat to slide down those last couple of
> > inches. I don't really see the problem.
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>

> He says he needs 4 more inches of depth to float the boat.

--- In bolger@y..., "dnjost" <djost@m...> wrote:
> Well, I guess I should respond to this.
>
> I don't own a hummer. The four inches I need assumes that I have
not
> gone back any further than the exhaust pipe will allow me to.
>
> Also, my trailer is a bunk trailer. Therefore, I could give her a
> good push and get her off, but the problem becomes getting her back
> on. The bunks would then be floating higher than the hull itself
and
> make for a lot of stress and strain on the winch, cable, bow
> fittings, and hull itself. It is always best to put as little
stress
> on these items as necessary.
>
> My laminated 2X4 with hitch attached works great. I lash it in
place
> with dacron braid and it is cleated to the 2X4. this prevents
> jackknifing when going backwards, and does away with the snapping
> cable problem on retreive. So far so good.
>
> David Jost
>
>
> > He says he needs 4 more inches of depth to float the boat.
Unless
> he
> > is already flooding the floor pans of his vehicle, I can't
imagine
> a
> > situation where driving the vehicle in until he has four more
> inches
> > of depth would hurt anything.
> >
> > Besides, it is never the practice around here to float a boat off
> of
> > a trailer. I'd say drive in two inches deeper and then give a
good
> > push, it would be off in no time if the ramp has any angle to
it.
> It
> > probably wouldn't even need a push, just coming to a sharp stop
is
> > usually enough to get the boat to slide down those last couple of
> > inches. I don't really see the problem.

> He says he needs 4 more inches of depth to float the boat. Unless

> is already flooding the floor pans of his vehicle, I can't imagine

> situation where driving the vehicle in until he has four more

> of depth would hurt anything.
>
> Besides, it is never the practice around here to float a boat off

> a trailer. I'd say drive in two inches deeper and then give a good
> push, it would be off in no time if the ramp has any angle to it.

> probably wouldn't even need a push, just coming to a sharp stop is
> usually enough to get the boat to slide down those last couple of
> inches. I don't really see the problem.

> --- In bolger@y..., "cwgriesel" <cwgriesel@h...> wrote:
> > --- In bolger@y..., "dnjost" <djost@m...> wrote:
> > > Well,
> > > I took her to the lake today. The one that does not allow
> > motors,
> > > just to see what a chore it would be to launch and retreive.

> > > particular ramp is very shallow. I backed down the ramp and as

> > > suspected, the boat was still a good 4" too high to float.
> >
> > Why is this so complicated? Why not just drive into the water a

> > until the boat is in far enough?
--- In bolger@y..., "rnlocnil" <lincolnr@m...> wrote:
> Not everyone has amphibious car or Hummer.

He says he needs 4 more inches of depth to float the boat. Unless he
is already flooding the floor pans of his vehicle, I can't imagine a
situation where driving the vehicle in until he has four more inches
of depth would hurt anything.

Besides, it is never the practice around here to float a boat off of
a trailer. I'd say drive in two inches deeper and then give a good
push, it would be off in no time if the ramp has any angle to it. It
probably wouldn't even need a push, just coming to a sharp stop is
usually enough to get the boat to slide down those last couple of
inches. I don't really see the problem.

--- In bolger@y..., "cwgriesel" <cwgriesel@h...> wrote:
> --- In bolger@y..., "dnjost" <djost@m...> wrote:
> > Well,
> > I took her to the lake today. The one that does not allow
> motors,
> > just to see what a chore it would be to launch and retreive. this
> > particular ramp is very shallow. I backed down the ramp and as I
> > suspected, the boat was still a good 4" too high to float.
>
> Why is this so complicated? Why not just drive into the water a bit
> until the boat is in far enough?

> Well,
> I took her to the lake today. The one that does not allow

> just to see what a chore it would be to launch and retreive. this
> particular ramp is very shallow. I backed down the ramp and as I
> suspected, the boat was still a good 4" too high to float.

--- In bolger@y..., "jeff" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> Use a tow strap, very little stretch, much safer.
>
> Jeff
snip

>In a message dated 15-07-02 7:08:52 PM E. Australia Standard Time,
>jhkohnen@...writes:
>
>
> > )-- then something gave and the
> > pickup started to move! My cousin looked in the rear view mirror and there
> > was
> > the bush-- rapidly getting bigger! It slammed into the back of the cab,
> > sending dirt and needles through the open sliding window
>
>
>Did this really happen or was it from an episode of "Home Improvements"?
>
>Howard
>
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
>01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

> )-- then something gave and the
> pickup started to move! My cousin looked in the rear view mirror and there
> was
> the bush-- rapidly getting bigger! It slammed into the back of the cab,
> sending dirt and needles through the open sliding window

>Lesson Learned:
>
>After college I had a brief stint as a deckhand on a small oil tanker
>(280ft.) that served the new york area. To make a long story,

>Ask anybody employeed in the shipping industry, especially tugboats,
>and they will tell you one horror story or another about someone who
>was severly injured or killed by a parting line.

----- Original Message -----
From: <jhkohnen@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, July 15, 2002 1:54 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Micro high and dry: extension tongue?


> On Sun, 14 Jul 2002 16:58:42 EDT, Bill in Minn. wrote:
> > In a message dated 7/13/02 8:00:12 AM Central Daylight Time,
> >pvanderw@...writes:
> >
> >
> > > Use a low stretch line!
> > >
> > > Peter
> > >
> >
> > And this would be safer, because ... ?
> >
> > My 2 cents:
> >
> > Given equal tensile strength, both high-stretch and low-stretch ropes
would
> > have stored up equal strain energy before they fail and would release
the
> > same amount of energy upon fracture. Would the ends a parting steel or
> kevlar
> > or whatever line be any less dangerous than those of a nylon one?
> > ...
>
> So, you're saying that if you're going to make a slingshot a piece of
kevlar
> rope should work as well as a piece of surgical rubber. I'll stick to the
> rubber.
>
> In small sizes nylon rope isn't itself very dangerous when it parts, it'll
> just smart when it hits you. The frequently heard horror story is using
nylon
> for a tow rope and having the cleat on one end come loose, sending it
hurtling
> back at whoever's on the other end of the rope! Now that's dangerous...
>
> My cousin had to remove a big hemlock shrub from somebody's yard once. He
> figured he could yank it out easily enough with his 4wd pickup, so he tied
a
> stout nylon rope to the bush and hooked the other end to his back bumper.
The
> rope stretched, the pickup struggled for traction, the bush didn't budge
> (hemlock bushes have _very_ strong root systems)-- then something gave and
the
> pickup started to move! My cousin looked in the rear view mirror and there
was
> the bush-- rapidly getting bigger! It slammed into the back of the cab,
> sending dirt and needles through the open sliding window. He didn't have
to
> pick it up and load it into the truck, it was already there. I hope he
kept
> his wits and acted like he'd planned it that way. <g>
>
> If I was going to use the "rope" method I'd lose the rope and use cable or
> chain anyway, for the resistance to abrasion.
>
> --
> John <jkohnen@...>
>http://www.boat-links.com/
> They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety
> deserve neither liberty nor safety. <Benjamin Franklin>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>

--- In bolger@y..., jhkohnen@b... wrote:
> On Sun, 14 Jul 2002 16:58:42 EDT, Bill in Minn. wrote:
> > In a message dated 7/13/02 8:00:12 AM Central Daylight Time,
> > pvanderw@o... writes:
> >
> >
> > > Use a low stretch line!
> > >
> > > Peter
> > >
> >
> > And this would be safer, because ... ?
> >
> > My 2 cents:
> >
> > Given equal tensile strength, both high-stretch and low-stretch
ropes would
> > have stored up equal strain energy before they fail and would
release the
> > same amount of energy upon fracture. Would the ends a parting
steel or
> kevlar
> > or whatever line be any less dangerous than those of a nylon one?
> > ...
>
> So, you're saying that if you're going to make a slingshot a piece
of kevlar
> rope should work as well as a piece of surgical rubber. I'll stick
to the
> rubber.
>
> In small sizes nylon rope isn't itself very dangerous when it
parts, it'll
> just smart when it hits you. The frequently heard horror story is
using nylon
> for a tow rope and having the cleat on one end come loose, sending
it hurtling
> back at whoever's on the other end of the rope! Now that's
dangerous...
>
> My cousin had to remove a big hemlock shrub from somebody's yard
once. He
> figured he could yank it out easily enough with his 4wd pickup, so
he tied a
> stout nylon rope to the bush and hooked the other end to his back
bumper. The
> rope stretched, the pickup struggled for traction, the bush didn't
budge
> (hemlock bushes have _very_ strong root systems)-- then something
gave and the
> pickup started to move! My cousin looked in the rear view mirror
and there was
> the bush-- rapidly getting bigger! It slammed into the back of the
cab,
> sending dirt and needles through the open sliding window. He didn't
have to
> pick it up and load it into the truck, it was already there. I hope
he kept
> his wits and acted like he'd planned it that way. <g>
>
> If I was going to use the "rope" method I'd lose the rope and use
cable or
> chain anyway, for the resistance to abrasion.
>
> --
> John <jkohnen@b...>
>http://www.boat-links.com/
> They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary safety
> deserve neither liberty nor safety. <Benjamin Franklin>

> The indication or warning would only be usable if the stretch were
> calibrated and repeatable.

> In a message dated 7/13/02 8:00:12 AM Central Daylight Time,
>pvanderw@...writes:
>
>
> > Use a low stretch line!
> >
> > Peter
> >
>
> And this would be safer, because ... ?
>
> My 2 cents:
>
> Given equal tensile strength, both high-stretch and low-stretch ropes would
> have stored up equal strain energy before they fail and would release the
> same amount of energy upon fracture. Would the ends a parting steel or

> or whatever line be any less dangerous than those of a nylon one?
> ...

> In the case given, the elongation of the nylon line at least gave a

> indication of how highly stressed the line was, which might cause a

> (i.e. non-boating) and observant person to get stronger line before
> continuing. Under the same circumstances, an equivalent low-stretch

> would have given little observable warning that its strain limit

> approached.

> --- In bolger@y..., "pvanderwaart" <pvanderw@o...> wrote:
> > > Given equal tensile strength, both high-stretch and low-stretch
> > ropes would
> > > have stored up equal strain energy before they fail and would
> > release the
> > > same amount of energy upon fracture.

> finally settling into a nice single digit age group where upon you

> re-capture some beautiful childhood dreams before they slip away
> forever.
> Bon voyage,mon ami!!
> Sincerely,
> Peter Lenihan,recalling his first days afloat onboard LESTAT and
> cherishing every minite of it,from the shores of the muggy
> St.Lawrence......

>
> I posted some new pictures of Firefly on her maiden voyage in the
> photos section.
>
> Happy Boating,
> David Jost

> > Given equal tensile strength, both high-stretch and low-stretch
> ropes would
> > have stored up equal strain energy before they fail and would
> release the
> > same amount of energy upon fracture.
>
> I am out of my depth as to the physics/engineering of this

> but I have to believe that elasticity is a bad thing in this here.

> you have a material that doesn't stretch much before it breaks

> a long, skinny rock) then the fractured end doesn't get accelerated
> much when the strain is released. With the elastic material, the
> newly freed end goes zing. You imply it's not so. Really?
>
> Peter

> Given equal tensile strength, both high-stretch and low-stretch

> have stored up equal strain energy before they fail and would

> same amount of energy upon fracture.

> Use a low stretch line!
>
> Peter
>

> The rope was a couple of pieces of not-very-new looking synthetic,
> only about 5/16" (maybe 3/8") thick!

On Thu, 11 Jul 2002 00:00:42 -0700, I wrote:
> I got a swiveling caster with pneumatic tire (total tire diameter about
10")
> at Harbor Freight for $16.95 or so. I mounted it on the bottom of my
trailer
> jack, and it makes moving the trailer around real easy! I don't need to
use
> it for launching, but a similar setup used with a winch and cable, or just
a
> length of rope from the tow vehicle to the trailer (back the vehicle or
pull
> forward instead of letting the cable out or reeling it in) would probably
> work fine for launching the Micro.

--
John <jkohnen@...>
http://www.boat-links.com/
Outside of a dog, a book is a man's best friend.
Inside of a dog, it's too dark to read. <Groucho Marx>

On Wed, 10 Jul 2002 04:30:20 -0000, Bruce Hallman wrote:
> --- In bolger@y..., "dnjost" <djost@m...> wrote:
>
> > Does any one have a cheaper and easier way to do this?
>
>
> A couple years ago, Phil Bolger [SA?] wrote an article in MAIB about
> how he likes to launch boats, Lilly I recall. He mounts a heavy duty
> dolly wheel at the tongue of the trailer so that the trailer can roll
> on its own. Then he takes an 12V electric powered cable winch bolted
> to a hunk of wood, and connected by chain to his economy car which is
> parked (w/wheels chocked) up high and dry on flat pavement. Using the
> winch, he then lowers [and retrieves] the trailer using cable only.
> The winch is powered with a stand alone 12V automotive battery.
> ...

--
John <jkohnen@...>
http://www.boat-links.com/
I cannot help thinking that the people with motor boats miss a great deal.
If they would only keep to rowboats or canoes, and use oar or paddle...
they would get infinitely more benefit than by having their work done for
them by gasoline. <Theodore Roosevelt>

> It certainly looks like your trailer is not complete yet but in a
> stage of development. The boats center of gravity could be lowered

> placing braces and welded "U" sections for the keel to ride deeper

> the cross members. The front supports could be curved and the stern
> supports could be made to lower for launching and retrieval. The

> only has to ride as high as the furthest axle travel upward. With
> those modifications your boat will ride lower and launch more

>
> This picture,
>http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/vwp?.dir=/Firefly+

> &.dnm=On+the+road+1.jpg&.src=gr&.done=http%
> 3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/vwp%3f.dir=/Firefly%2b
> (Micro)%26.dnm=AUT_0268.jpg%26.src=gr clearly shows the room you
> have to lower the boat on your trailer without very much effort.

> cross member modifications at a welding shop shouldn't cost more

> $150.00. I may be a little off on the price because I do all my own
> fabrication.
>
> John
>
>
>
> > --- In bolger@y..., "dnjost" <djost@m...> wrote:
> >
> > > Does any one have a cheaper and easier way to do this?
> >
> >

> dolly wheel at the tongue of the trailer so that the trailer can

> on its own. Then he takes an 12V electric powered cable winch

> to a hunk of wood, and connected by chain to his economy car which

> parked (w/wheels chocked) up high and dry on flat pavement. Using

> winch, he then lowers [and retrieves] the trailer using cable

> The winch is powered with a stand alone 12V automotive battery.
>
> Looked real effective, making the launch of big boats, on slippery
> ramps with tiny cars seem easy.

> If I recall correctly, he also recommended in the same article that
> you could use a length of rope or something to connect the trailer
> tongue to the FRONT of the vehicle so you could lower it down the ramp
> by moving the vehicle and see what you were doing, too. Maybe even
> long enough rope to keep vehicle on level part of ramp. Certainly
> would be cheap. THere were probably some other tips I don't recall.

--- In bolger@y..., "brucehallman" <brucehallman@y...> wrote:
snip
> A couple years ago, Phil Bolger [SA?] wrote an article in MAIB about
> how he likes to launch boats, Lilly I recall. He mounts a heavy
duty
> dolly wheel at the tongue of the trailer so that the trailer can
roll
> on its own. Then he takes an 12V electric powered cable winch
bolted
> to a hunk of wood, and connected by chain to his economy car which
is
> parked (w/wheels chocked) up high and dry on flat pavement. Using
the
> winch, he then lowers [and retrieves] the trailer using cable only.

snip

>
> Does any one have a cheaper and easier way to do this?
>
> David Jost
>
> "pushing the limits of Micro already!"

--- In bolger@y..., "dnjost" <djost@m...> wrote:

> Does any one have a cheaper and easier way to do this?


A couple years ago, Phil Bolger [SA?] wrote an article in MAIB about
how he likes to launch boats, Lilly I recall. He mounts a heavy duty
dolly wheel at the tongue of the trailer so that the trailer can roll
on its own. Then he takes an 12V electric powered cable winch bolted
to a hunk of wood, and connected by chain to his economy car which is
parked (w/wheels chocked) up high and dry on flat pavement. Using the
winch, he then lowers [and retrieves] the trailer using cable only.
The winch is powered with a stand alone 12V automotive battery.

Looked real effective, making the launch of big boats, on slippery
ramps with tiny cars seem easy.


Bolger rules!!!
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- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> --- In bolger@y..., "dnjost" <djost@m...> wrote:
>
> > Does any one have a cheaper and easier way to do this?
>
>

> Does any one have a cheaper and easier way to do this?

> Well,
> I took her to the lake today. The one that does not allow motors,
> just to see what a chore it would be to launch and retreive. this
> particular ramp is very shallow. I backed down the ramp and as I
> suspected, the boat was still a good 4" too high to float. I
> obviously need an extension tongue of some kind.
>
> Here is the idea: Take two 10' 2X4's and laminate them together with
> some left over epoxy (galvanized screws to hold) Place an all
> purpose cleat on each end, then attach the board to the bumper and
> the other end to the trailer. The cleats will hold the line securely
> to the board and each end. Then back down the ramp.
>
> Does any one have a cheaper and easier way to do this?
>
> David Jost
>
> "pushing the limits of Micro already!"
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,

> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>