Re: Wood flour
I have seen wheat flour recommended. It may have been Dave Carnell.
There is probably not much strength difference - it is a filler after
all. If you want strength, add glass or xynole or something with long
fibers. I would use white flour instead of whole wheat, less germ and
oil content.
Other plant fibers might work too. Rice hulls are available some
places. Then there is flax and wheat straw (used to make a particle
board). Most waste fiber finds a home. You just have to find someone
that grinds it up for another market.
Charles
There is probably not much strength difference - it is a filler after
all. If you want strength, add glass or xynole or something with long
fibers. I would use white flour instead of whole wheat, less germ and
oil content.
Other plant fibers might work too. Rice hulls are available some
places. Then there is flax and wheat straw (used to make a particle
board). Most waste fiber finds a home. You just have to find someone
that grinds it up for another market.
Charles
--- In bolger@y..., "brucehector" <bruce_hector@h...> wrote:
> Darn, I hit send before typing. I hate it when I do that.
>
> What I meant to type was a silly quip about weather bran or oat
fibre
> would make a bood bonding filler, but I won't be so flip as to ask.
>
> Bruce Htor
Darn, I hit send before typing. I hate it when I do that.
What I meant to type was a silly quip about weather bran or oat fibre
would make a bood bonding filler, but I won't be so flip as to ask.
Bruce Htor
What I meant to type was a silly quip about weather bran or oat fibre
would make a bood bonding filler, but I won't be so flip as to ask.
Bruce Htor
--- In bolger@y..., Chris Crandall <crandall@u...> wrote:
> On Thu, 25 Jul 2002, Chris Crandall wrote:fiber you
> > It's a special high fiber formulation, and it's probably more of a
> > marketing ply than something of real value. You can get all the
> > want with wheat bran.brain.
>
>
> Err, I meant marketing "ploy", not "ply". Boatbuilding on the
> You can look at the list of ingredients of bread to see if woodfiber is
> in it. It is certainly likely to be euphemized.
On Thu, 25 Jul 2002, Chris Crandall wrote:
You can look at the list of ingredients of bread to see if wood fiber is
in it. It is certainly likely to be euphemized.
> It's a special high fiber formulation, and it's probably more of aErr, I meant marketing "ploy", not "ply". Boatbuilding on the brain.
> marketing ply than something of real value. You can get all the fiber you
> want with wheat bran.
You can look at the list of ingredients of bread to see if wood fiber is
in it. It is certainly likely to be euphemized.
On Wed, 24 Jul 2002, jas_orr wrote:
see, I think 1972, in Berkeley, CA. (No wait, Richmond, the El Sobrante
region.)
It's a special high fiber formulation, and it's probably more of a
marketing ply than something of real value. You can get all the fiber you
want with wheat bran.
> I was assured, in the strongest terms possible in polite company, thatI have seen bread for sale with wood in it. The last I saw it was, let's
> they did not use wood flour and to the best of their knowledge, no
> other bakery in Canada used it either.
see, I think 1972, in Berkeley, CA. (No wait, Richmond, the El Sobrante
region.)
It's a special high fiber formulation, and it's probably more of a
marketing ply than something of real value. You can get all the fiber you
want with wheat bran.
> The mother lode is out there fellas, and it's cheap. Anyone want toWell I won't pretend I am not interested, the colour is great.
> split a train car load or two?
Though I still think that the prize, both structuraly and money wise,
is minimizing the use of epoxy, which wood flour won't do. It
strikes me a little like finding a free source for sawblades with a
1" kerf, "hey now we are making money!".
Does anyone know of a source for q-cell that is cheaper than buying
10# bags from composite suppliers?
Forget asking at bakeries, if it's true they're ashamed of it, and
probably call it cellulose fibre. My wif calls her
Metamucil "woodchips", is she on to somethimng? Searchimg in Yahoo
with keywords like +wood +flour +whoesale +supplier +wood waste etc I
got humdreds of hits. Someone better than I at searching the www
should give it a try. I found companies that wanted to sell me wood
flour by the train car load, some by 50 lb. bags at 40 to the
pallette-minimum order two palettes.
The mother lode is out there fellas, and it's cheap. Anyone want to
split a train car load or two?
probably call it cellulose fibre. My wif calls her
Metamucil "woodchips", is she on to somethimng? Searchimg in Yahoo
with keywords like +wood +flour +whoesale +supplier +wood waste etc I
got humdreds of hits. Someone better than I at searching the www
should give it a try. I found companies that wanted to sell me wood
flour by the train car load, some by 50 lb. bags at 40 to the
pallette-minimum order two palettes.
The mother lode is out there fellas, and it's cheap. Anyone want to
split a train car load or two?
There is a local company (ICT - Integrated Composite Technologies -
Montezuma, GA) that makes extruded composite boards for decks etc. It
is about 40% recycled plastic and resin, 60% wood fluor. Mostly pine
from ground up scrap, sometimes hardwood. They buy the flour. It is
good clean stuff so the boards won't have blemishes or weak spots.
They use tons per day and run 24\7.
They make an excellent tongue and groove 1x4 that is waterproof, rot
proof, termite proof, dimensionally stable etc. They make other sizes
too like a 2x8 that makes a great trailer floor. Holds nails and
screws, saws just like wood. The appearance and color is like semi
gloss particle board but properties are not similar.
They make utility poles and pier pilings (worm proof)out of the stuff.
They are trying to find a source of kenaf. It is a stronger fiber and
flows better. Increases production 20% and increases strength.
Charles
Montezuma, GA) that makes extruded composite boards for decks etc. It
is about 40% recycled plastic and resin, 60% wood fluor. Mostly pine
from ground up scrap, sometimes hardwood. They buy the flour. It is
good clean stuff so the boards won't have blemishes or weak spots.
They use tons per day and run 24\7.
They make an excellent tongue and groove 1x4 that is waterproof, rot
proof, termite proof, dimensionally stable etc. They make other sizes
too like a 2x8 that makes a great trailer floor. Holds nails and
screws, saws just like wood. The appearance and color is like semi
gloss particle board but properties are not similar.
They make utility poles and pier pilings (worm proof)out of the stuff.
They are trying to find a source of kenaf. It is a stronger fiber and
flows better. Increases production 20% and increases strength.
Charles
> > Anyone out there know where Wonder Bread, etc get their woodflour?
I read the same thing, so called a big bread factory here -- I chose
one I whose thought bread most like sawdust anyway (but it has a good
long shelf life!)
I was assured, in the strongest terms possible in polite company,
that they did not use wood flour and to the best of their knowledge,
no other bakery in Canada used it either.
Good luck, let us know if you find a source, but keep your head down
when you ask!
Jamie Orr
one I whose thought bread most like sawdust anyway (but it has a good
long shelf life!)
I was assured, in the strongest terms possible in polite company,
that they did not use wood flour and to the best of their knowledge,
no other bakery in Canada used it either.
Good luck, let us know if you find a source, but keep your head down
when you ask!
Jamie Orr
--- In bolger@y..., "brucehector" <bruce_hector@h...> wrote:
> I've read that wood flour is used in commercial bakeries to add
fibre
> to breads, muffins, etc (I know, Yuk!), but if it's true they'll be
> buying in 50 or 100 pound bags at what to us would be a dirt cheap
> price.
>
> Anyone out there know where Wonder Bread, etc get their wood flour?
I've read that wood flour is used in commercial bakeries to add fibre
to breads, muffins, etc (I know, Yuk!), but if it's true they'll be
buying in 50 or 100 pound bags at what to us would be a dirt cheap
price.
Anyone out there know where Wonder Bread, etc get their wood flour?
to breads, muffins, etc (I know, Yuk!), but if it's true they'll be
buying in 50 or 100 pound bags at what to us would be a dirt cheap
price.
Anyone out there know where Wonder Bread, etc get their wood flour?
You can also try Clark Craft, they seem reasonably reasonable and
they ship quickly.
they ship quickly.
--- In bolger@y..., "lulalake_1999" <lulalake_1999@y...> wrote:
> Speaking of wood flour, can anyone post sources for wood flour?
> West charges way too much for the stuff and around Austin there
jest
> ain't none.
>
> Thanks y'all
>
> Jules
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "rnlocnil" <lincolnr@m...> wrote:
> > 1/2 gallon sounds like a lot. I use just enough putty on inside
of
> > seams to get enough radius to keep the tapes from wrinkling. Say
> the
> > radius given by a plastic spoon. On the outside, very little or
no
> > "putty" should be necessary, just sand the corners to a nice
> > looking radius. Of course for holes and cracks you need some
> filler.
> > Consider using "wood flour" (VERY fine sawdust). I use about
70/30
> > wood flour and fumed silica, mixed into the epoxy to get the
> > consistency I like. I suspect the wood flour is cheaper than the
> epoxy
> > it displaces.
> > --- In bolger@y..., "pseudodion42" <pseudodion3@a...> wrote:
> > > Hello, Bolgeristas.
> > snip For example, just to putty and glass the
> > bow
> > > and sole and lower bow panels took nearly 1/2 gallon of
cabosil.
> > > Should it require so much, or am I doing a bit of overkill on
the
> > > putty. snip
> > >
> > > Question: As I putty and tape the rest of the interior seams of
> the
> > > boat, what is the goal? How much putty ought I use?; How large
a
> > > radius am I looking for? I will appreciate all advice.
> > >
> > snip
You don't want to use pure cabosil fillets, it is a thixotropic
agent, it stops resin from running out of the filler. You will use
way too much epoxy and cab. if you go that route, you also will do
too much mixing.
Though I like wood flour, particularly if you are doing a clear
finish, and want the whole thing to look like wood, it is a poor
coving agent. I have found Q-cells much cheaper, I prefer phenolic,
but it is more expensive in my area. You can mix as much as 2-3
times the volume of material from the same squirt of epoxy using q-
celss, it is more than strong enough. The main advantages are:
- Less epoxy consumption
- Less mixing
- Less resin density and cooking off
- Equal strength (in the situation)
- Less weight
- Each mixed batch goes further
- Spreads better
- Easier to sand, though this should not really ever be necesary
since coves are glassed wet, or left with the tooled finish.
- Lower net cost. I try to avoid the "I used a really cheap epoxy so
I could afford to waste it in heavy fillets" syndrome.
Only negatives I have experienced are:
- Q-cells are white, which may not be acceptible in some cases.
- Q-cell costs more, though I don't believe that is true on a net
basis.
- Something else to stock, which is a factor for small users.
I dump about 1 part cab. and 3 parts Q in a 4# coffee can, and put
the lid on and shake, let it settle. This reduces the amount of
mixing of raw cab, and the junk in the air.
agent, it stops resin from running out of the filler. You will use
way too much epoxy and cab. if you go that route, you also will do
too much mixing.
Though I like wood flour, particularly if you are doing a clear
finish, and want the whole thing to look like wood, it is a poor
coving agent. I have found Q-cells much cheaper, I prefer phenolic,
but it is more expensive in my area. You can mix as much as 2-3
times the volume of material from the same squirt of epoxy using q-
celss, it is more than strong enough. The main advantages are:
- Less epoxy consumption
- Less mixing
- Less resin density and cooking off
- Equal strength (in the situation)
- Less weight
- Each mixed batch goes further
- Spreads better
- Easier to sand, though this should not really ever be necesary
since coves are glassed wet, or left with the tooled finish.
- Lower net cost. I try to avoid the "I used a really cheap epoxy so
I could afford to waste it in heavy fillets" syndrome.
Only negatives I have experienced are:
- Q-cells are white, which may not be acceptible in some cases.
- Q-cell costs more, though I don't believe that is true on a net
basis.
- Something else to stock, which is a factor for small users.
I dump about 1 part cab. and 3 parts Q in a 4# coffee can, and put
the lid on and shake, let it settle. This reduces the amount of
mixing of raw cab, and the junk in the air.
----- Original Message -----
From: lulalake_1999
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2002 7:26 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Dobler Update
Thanks for the replies.
I guess one could use an old flour sifter to seperate the flour from
the big stuff.
I've used a lot of sawdust for big fillets, like where frames join hull. I used a window screen to sift it. It is coarser than flour and leaves a rougher surface, but I was using it where it would be glassed over anway. I sand these fillets when necessary with a Dremel drum sander on the cable attatchment. I found that tool very hand for getting into tight spots and the little drums last a pretty long time. A fillet can be sanded pretty fast this way. Sure beats hand sanding. Also peel ply or plastic film applied to wet fillet helps, or glass while fillet is still soft..
Gary
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I think the screen isn't fine enough on the sifters I've seen, which
are designed to break up chunks of what has already been ground to
size. Maybe with a finer screen. The wood flour I've used is REALLY
fine, like you'd expect from using fine sandpaper. It works nicely
that way. Beware, the maple stuff looks like caramel when it's mixed
up, so don't build when you are hungry!
are designed to break up chunks of what has already been ground to
size. Maybe with a finer screen. The wood flour I've used is REALLY
fine, like you'd expect from using fine sandpaper. It works nicely
that way. Beware, the maple stuff looks like caramel when it's mixed
up, so don't build when you are hungry!
--- In bolger@y..., "lulalake_1999" <lulalake_1999@y...> wrote:
> Thanks for the replies.
>
> I guess one could use an old flour sifter to seperate the flour from
> the big stuff.
>
see below
--- In bolger@y..., "brucehector" <bruce_hector@h...> wrote:
> I go for a fillet thickness about the same as the plyowwd size being
> joined.
snip
> I
> don't measure, it just sized with the Mark I eyeball.
Ouch! I'll stay with a plastic spoon, thank you. Much more
comfortable.
>
snipBandsaw sawdust
> is quite fine, snip
Beware if you change or sharpen the blade.
--- In bolger@y..., "pseudodion42" <pseudodion3@a...> wrote:
them in hardcopy and digital format(jpg). The jpeg's were accessible
by logging in to their site, creating a photo user account, and
viewing/downloading,etc with the roll id# and a claim # they send
back on a slip with the hardcopy. It didn't cost much more than
regular developing; a buck and a half maybe. Works for me.
Not available with one hour developing.
Seehttp://www.walmartphotocenter.com/photo/home/index.asp
> Note: Bill from Minnesota asked if I had posted construction pics.taking
> Unfortunately, I have no digital camera, although I have been
> a photo record with some disposable cameras. Neither do I have auntil
> scanner. Therefore, those interested in pics will have to wait
> I get the photos developed and put on disk.I recently had pictures developed at Walmart. One option was to have
them in hardcopy and digital format(jpg). The jpeg's were accessible
by logging in to their site, creating a photo user account, and
viewing/downloading,etc with the roll id# and a claim # they send
back on a slip with the hardcopy. It didn't cost much more than
regular developing; a buck and a half maybe. Works for me.
Not available with one hour developing.
Seehttp://www.walmartphotocenter.com/photo/home/index.asp
Thanks for the replies.
I guess one could use an old flour sifter to seperate the flour from
the big stuff.
I guess one could use an old flour sifter to seperate the flour from
the big stuff.
--- In bolger@y..., "rnlocnil" <lincolnr@m...> wrote:
> Try www.raka.com or www.glen-l.com
>
> If you can think of a way to separate out the really fine sawdust
from
> the coarse, you don't have to buy any.
> --- In bolger@y..., "lulalake_1999" <lulalake_1999@y...> wrote:
> > Speaking of wood flour, can anyone post sources for wood flour?
> > West charges way too much for the stuff and around Austin there
jest
> > ain't none.
> >
> > Thanks y'all
> >
> > Jules
> >
Try www.raka.com or www.glen-l.com
If you can think of a way to separate out the really fine sawdust from
the coarse, you don't have to buy any.
If you can think of a way to separate out the really fine sawdust from
the coarse, you don't have to buy any.
--- In bolger@y..., "lulalake_1999" <lulalake_1999@y...> wrote:
> Speaking of wood flour, can anyone post sources for wood flour?
> West charges way too much for the stuff and around Austin there jest
> ain't none.
>
> Thanks y'all
>
> Jules
>
www.raka.com
They carry a couple kinds. I wood flour almost exclusively for everything
except for fairing paste I use Phenolic micro balloons because they sand
very easy compared to wood flour or straight epoxy.
Jeff
They carry a couple kinds. I wood flour almost exclusively for everything
except for fairing paste I use Phenolic micro balloons because they sand
very easy compared to wood flour or straight epoxy.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "lulalake_1999" <lulalake_1999@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2002 8:06 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Dobler Update
> Speaking of wood flour, can anyone post sources for wood flour?
> West charges way too much for the stuff and around Austin there jest
> ain't none.
>
> Thanks y'all
>
> Jules
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "rnlocnil" <lincolnr@m...> wrote:
> > 1/2 gallon sounds like a lot. I use just enough putty on inside of
> > seams to get enough radius to keep the tapes from wrinkling. Say
> the
> > radius given by a plastic spoon. On the outside, very little or no
> > "putty" should be necessary, just sand the corners to a nice
> > looking radius. Of course for holes and cracks you need some
> filler.
> > Consider using "wood flour" (VERY fine sawdust). I use about 70/30
> > wood flour and fumed silica, mixed into the epoxy to get the
> > consistency I like. I suspect the wood flour is cheaper than the
> epoxy
> > it displaces.
> > --- In bolger@y..., "pseudodion42" <pseudodion3@a...> wrote:
> > > Hello, Bolgeristas.
> > snip For example, just to putty and glass the
> > bow
> > > and sole and lower bow panels took nearly 1/2 gallon of cabosil.
> > > Should it require so much, or am I doing a bit of overkill on the
> > > putty. snip
> > >
> > > Question: As I putty and tape the rest of the interior seams of
> the
> > > boat, what is the goal? How much putty ought I use?; How large a
> > > radius am I looking for? I will appreciate all advice.
> > >
> > snip
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Speaking of wood flour, can anyone post sources for wood flour?
West charges way too much for the stuff and around Austin there jest
ain't none.
Thanks y'all
Jules
West charges way too much for the stuff and around Austin there jest
ain't none.
Thanks y'all
Jules
--- In bolger@y..., "rnlocnil" <lincolnr@m...> wrote:
> 1/2 gallon sounds like a lot. I use just enough putty on inside of
> seams to get enough radius to keep the tapes from wrinkling. Say
the
> radius given by a plastic spoon. On the outside, very little or no
> "putty" should be necessary, just sand the corners to a nice
> looking radius. Of course for holes and cracks you need some
filler.
> Consider using "wood flour" (VERY fine sawdust). I use about 70/30
> wood flour and fumed silica, mixed into the epoxy to get the
> consistency I like. I suspect the wood flour is cheaper than the
epoxy
> it displaces.
> --- In bolger@y..., "pseudodion42" <pseudodion3@a...> wrote:
> > Hello, Bolgeristas.
> snip For example, just to putty and glass the
> bow
> > and sole and lower bow panels took nearly 1/2 gallon of cabosil.
> > Should it require so much, or am I doing a bit of overkill on the
> > putty. snip
> >
> > Question: As I putty and tape the rest of the interior seams of
the
> > boat, what is the goal? How much putty ought I use?; How large a
> > radius am I looking for? I will appreciate all advice.
> >
> snip
I go for a fillet thickness about the same as the plyowwd size being
joined. ie: 1/2" fillet on half inch ply. Since the epoxy/goop/glass
joint is stronger than the wood I have no strength worries after. I
don't measure, it just sized with the Mark I eyeball.
I thicken with the cheapest filler around, sawdust. Bandsaw sawdust
is quite fine, where my table say dust makes an almost "porridge or
grits" consistency slop that dries hard as nails and is a bitch to
sand. But it sure is cheaper than any purchased fillers. Where looks
are important I'll over coat the wood/epxy slush with a finish layer
thickened with mico balloons, far nicer to sand. But if you press a
strip of sheet plastic into the sloop when still soft it hardens to a
smooth finish all by itself.
joined. ie: 1/2" fillet on half inch ply. Since the epoxy/goop/glass
joint is stronger than the wood I have no strength worries after. I
don't measure, it just sized with the Mark I eyeball.
I thicken with the cheapest filler around, sawdust. Bandsaw sawdust
is quite fine, where my table say dust makes an almost "porridge or
grits" consistency slop that dries hard as nails and is a bitch to
sand. But it sure is cheaper than any purchased fillers. Where looks
are important I'll over coat the wood/epxy slush with a finish layer
thickened with mico balloons, far nicer to sand. But if you press a
strip of sheet plastic into the sloop when still soft it hardens to a
smooth finish all by itself.
1/2 gallon sounds like a lot. I use just enough putty on inside of
seams to get enough radius to keep the tapes from wrinkling. Say the
radius given by a plastic spoon. On the outside, very little or no
"putty" should be necessary, just sand the corners to a nice
looking radius. Of course for holes and cracks you need some filler.
Consider using "wood flour" (VERY fine sawdust). I use about 70/30
wood flour and fumed silica, mixed into the epoxy to get the
consistency I like. I suspect the wood flour is cheaper than the epoxy
it displaces.
seams to get enough radius to keep the tapes from wrinkling. Say the
radius given by a plastic spoon. On the outside, very little or no
"putty" should be necessary, just sand the corners to a nice
looking radius. Of course for holes and cracks you need some filler.
Consider using "wood flour" (VERY fine sawdust). I use about 70/30
wood flour and fumed silica, mixed into the epoxy to get the
consistency I like. I suspect the wood flour is cheaper than the epoxy
it displaces.
--- In bolger@y..., "pseudodion42" <pseudodion3@a...> wrote:
> Hello, Bolgeristas.
snip For example, just to putty and glass the
bow
> and sole and lower bow panels took nearly 1/2 gallon of cabosil.
> Should it require so much, or am I doing a bit of overkill on the
> putty. snip
>
> Question: As I putty and tape the rest of the interior seams of the
> boat, what is the goal? How much putty ought I use?; How large a
> radius am I looking for? I will appreciate all advice.
>
snip
Hello, Bolgeristas.
I want to thank all for their suggestions regarding sheathing the
exterior of my new boat in glass. I have decided that I am going to
get some 4oz cloth and glass the boat in that. I have some Xynole
that I will use on the bottom, but because it soaks up more epoxy
than glass and thus adds more weight, I am going to forego sheathing
in Xynole, unless of course someone can give me good reason to go the
xynole route.
I started taping the interior seams today. Remind me never to build
S&G construction again. I find the interminable glassing and mixing
putty tedious. It seems to me that stringers and a stem would be
easier to build than this. I know many like the S&G method, but I am
not fond of it thus far. For example, just to putty and glass the bow
and sole and lower bow panels took nearly 1/2 gallon of cabosil.
Should it require so much, or am I doing a bit of overkill on the
putty. Anyway, I am going to use talcum powder for the rest of my
putty mixes. I have alternated between cabosil and talc (baby powder)
throughout the construction of the Dobler and find the talcum/epoxy
batter easier and cheaper to work. It is also strong as the devil
although it is probably heavier than the cabosil.
Question: As I putty and tape the rest of the interior seams of the
boat, what is the goal? How much putty ought I use?; How large a
radius am I looking for? I will appreciate all advice.
Note: Bill from Minnesota asked if I had posted construction pics.
Unfortunately, I have no digital camera, although I have been taking
a photo record with some disposable cameras. Neither do I have a
scanner. Therefore, those interested in pics will have to wait until
I get the photos developed and put on disk. I will then post a photo
or two to give everyone an idea of what "The Dumb Ox" looks like and
how it is shaping up. A friend took a photo with his digital camera
when I was attaching the frames to the strongback. This I sent to
Duckworks and one can see it under the "projects" section.
Regards,
Dennis
I want to thank all for their suggestions regarding sheathing the
exterior of my new boat in glass. I have decided that I am going to
get some 4oz cloth and glass the boat in that. I have some Xynole
that I will use on the bottom, but because it soaks up more epoxy
than glass and thus adds more weight, I am going to forego sheathing
in Xynole, unless of course someone can give me good reason to go the
xynole route.
I started taping the interior seams today. Remind me never to build
S&G construction again. I find the interminable glassing and mixing
putty tedious. It seems to me that stringers and a stem would be
easier to build than this. I know many like the S&G method, but I am
not fond of it thus far. For example, just to putty and glass the bow
and sole and lower bow panels took nearly 1/2 gallon of cabosil.
Should it require so much, or am I doing a bit of overkill on the
putty. Anyway, I am going to use talcum powder for the rest of my
putty mixes. I have alternated between cabosil and talc (baby powder)
throughout the construction of the Dobler and find the talcum/epoxy
batter easier and cheaper to work. It is also strong as the devil
although it is probably heavier than the cabosil.
Question: As I putty and tape the rest of the interior seams of the
boat, what is the goal? How much putty ought I use?; How large a
radius am I looking for? I will appreciate all advice.
Note: Bill from Minnesota asked if I had posted construction pics.
Unfortunately, I have no digital camera, although I have been taking
a photo record with some disposable cameras. Neither do I have a
scanner. Therefore, those interested in pics will have to wait until
I get the photos developed and put on disk. I will then post a photo
or two to give everyone an idea of what "The Dumb Ox" looks like and
how it is shaping up. A friend took a photo with his digital camera
when I was attaching the frames to the strongback. This I sent to
Duckworks and one can see it under the "projects" section.
Regards,
Dennis