[bolger] Re: Screws vs nails
Hello Guys
Many plans now specify epoxy only, ie no mechanical fastening. Use philips head or square drive plain woodscrews - the screw-driver doesn't jump out and mar the work like it does with slotted screws, and remove them after the epoxy has set. If they won't come out touch the head with a soldering iron for a few seconds and then they'll come easy.
Regards - Foster
----------
From:pippobianco@...
Sent: Sunday, 5 September 1999 10:31 am
To:bolger@egroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Screws vs nails
Hi - I'm wondering which fastener should I use for planking my Micro
(3/8" plywood). Plans specify silicon bronze ring shank nails, but I
never used those and there's no hope to find them around here. What
about using stainless steel or galvanized iron flathead wood screws?
I'm going to use thickned epoxy as glue, and to encapsulate (Dave
Carnell forbid) all wood with epoxy, so I don't see a problem. And I
wouldn't need a backing maul with screws... Any thoughts? Thanks, Pippo
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Many plans now specify epoxy only, ie no mechanical fastening. Use philips head or square drive plain woodscrews - the screw-driver doesn't jump out and mar the work like it does with slotted screws, and remove them after the epoxy has set. If they won't come out touch the head with a soldering iron for a few seconds and then they'll come easy.
Regards - Foster
----------
From:pippobianco@...
Sent: Sunday, 5 September 1999 10:31 am
To:bolger@egroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Screws vs nails
Hi - I'm wondering which fastener should I use for planking my Micro
(3/8" plywood). Plans specify silicon bronze ring shank nails, but I
never used those and there's no hope to find them around here. What
about using stainless steel or galvanized iron flathead wood screws?
I'm going to use thickned epoxy as glue, and to encapsulate (Dave
Carnell forbid) all wood with epoxy, so I don't see a problem. And I
wouldn't need a backing maul with screws... Any thoughts? Thanks, Pippo
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Start with up to 150 Points for joining!
http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/805
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Is this another survey? :-) I vote stainless screws, preferably square
drive, or at least phillips head.
Chuck
drive, or at least phillips head.
Chuck
> Hi - I'm wondering which fastener should I use for planking my Micro
> (3/8" plywood). Plans specify silicon bronze ring shank nails, but I
> never used those and there's no hope to find them around here. What
> about using stainless steel or galvanized iron flathead wood screws?
> I'm going to use thickned epoxy as glue, and to encapsulate (Dave
> Carnell forbid) all wood with epoxy, so I don't see a problem. And I
> wouldn't need a backing maul with screws... Any thoughts? Thanks, Pippo
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> MyPoints-Free Rewards When You're Online.
> Start with up to 150 Points for joining!
>http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/805
>
>
> eGroups.com home:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
>http://www.egroups.com- Simplifying group communications
>
>
>
>
>
harding-@...wrote
We have had an interesting time comparing 3/4 inch #6 silicon bronze
screws with 7/8 inch #14 silicon bronze ring nails. In the 1/4 ply we
found we sometimes overdrive the screws with our drill and strip out
the hole. Got over that but you have to be careful. We countersink
them and you have to be careful not to go too deep into the thin ply
which is easy to do. Payson likes nails and I bought some and made up
some scrap joints. I was astonished at the holding power of the nails.
Tried to pry the joint apart with a hammer and no give. Broke the wood.
I think they hold better than screws in thin ply. Might be different
story with the 3/8ths and a larger diameter screw.
In the six hour canoe we made we used stainless steel screws that are
made for outdoor decks. They are supposed to be self-countersinking but
it doesn't always work. They are cheap and easily had. They are
magnetic which silicon bronze is not and the bronze can be sanded more
easily if that proves necessary. Can't see why any stainless fastners
available to you wouldn't work. Though it seems that anywhere there is
salt water there should be an outlet for silicon bronze fasteners. Also
roofers use stainless steel ring nails You get about 600 nails for the
price of 100 screws depending on the size.
On the Folding Schooner we are building we use 2 to 4 screws to fasten
a piece of framing in place and then fill in every 3 or 4 inches with
the nails. We get the piece aligned just so and put in the screws. Then
take it apart, glue it, put the screws back and fill in with the nails.
Works for us. All the best
Leander
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=222
We have had an interesting time comparing 3/4 inch #6 silicon bronze
screws with 7/8 inch #14 silicon bronze ring nails. In the 1/4 ply we
found we sometimes overdrive the screws with our drill and strip out
the hole. Got over that but you have to be careful. We countersink
them and you have to be careful not to go too deep into the thin ply
which is easy to do. Payson likes nails and I bought some and made up
some scrap joints. I was astonished at the holding power of the nails.
Tried to pry the joint apart with a hammer and no give. Broke the wood.
I think they hold better than screws in thin ply. Might be different
story with the 3/8ths and a larger diameter screw.
In the six hour canoe we made we used stainless steel screws that are
made for outdoor decks. They are supposed to be self-countersinking but
it doesn't always work. They are cheap and easily had. They are
magnetic which silicon bronze is not and the bronze can be sanded more
easily if that proves necessary. Can't see why any stainless fastners
available to you wouldn't work. Though it seems that anywhere there is
salt water there should be an outlet for silicon bronze fasteners. Also
roofers use stainless steel ring nails You get about 600 nails for the
price of 100 screws depending on the size.
On the Folding Schooner we are building we use 2 to 4 screws to fasten
a piece of framing in place and then fill in every 3 or 4 inches with
the nails. We get the piece aligned just so and put in the screws. Then
take it apart, glue it, put the screws back and fill in with the nails.
Works for us. All the best
Leander
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=222
> Hi - I'm wondering which fastener should I use for planking my MicroPippo
> (3/8" plywood). Plans specify silicon bronze ring shank nails, but I
> never used those and there's no hope to find them around here. What
> about using stainless steel or galvanized iron flathead wood screws?
> I'm going to use thickned epoxy as glue, and to encapsulate (Dave
> Carnell forbid) all wood with epoxy, so I don't see a problem. And I
> wouldn't need a backing maul with screws... Any thoughts? Thanks,
>
Hi - I'm wondering which fastener should I use for planking my Micro
(3/8" plywood). Plans specify silicon bronze ring shank nails, but I
never used those and there's no hope to find them around here. What
about using stainless steel or galvanized iron flathead wood screws?
I'm going to use thickned epoxy as glue, and to encapsulate (Dave
Carnell forbid) all wood with epoxy, so I don't see a problem. And I
wouldn't need a backing maul with screws... Any thoughts? Thanks, Pippo
(3/8" plywood). Plans specify silicon bronze ring shank nails, but I
never used those and there's no hope to find them around here. What
about using stainless steel or galvanized iron flathead wood screws?
I'm going to use thickned epoxy as glue, and to encapsulate (Dave
Carnell forbid) all wood with epoxy, so I don't see a problem. And I
wouldn't need a backing maul with screws... Any thoughts? Thanks, Pippo