Re: Glue Question
> UF is not fully waterproof, but was commonly used for buildingYes, this was before somebody decided that boats had to withstand
> plywood boats before the advent of epoxy.
>
> Howard
prolonged boiling:-)
Nels
Phenol-formaldehyde glue was and, I think, still is the standard glue
for marine and waterproof plywood i.e. it is fully waterproof.
UF is not fully waterproof, but was commonly used for building
plywood boats before the advent of epoxy.
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Tom Hathaway" <hathaway14@c...>
wrote:
for marine and waterproof plywood i.e. it is fully waterproof.
UF is not fully waterproof, but was commonly used for building
plywood boats before the advent of epoxy.
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Tom Hathaway" <hathaway14@c...>
wrote:
> HI Bill, Thanks for your reply. I think I found the answer ontheir
> website: "Glue: Exterior grade phenolic glue (passes 2-hour boiltest)".
HI Bill, Thanks for your reply. I think I found the answer on their
website: Glue: Exterior grade phenolic glue (passes 2-hour boil test).
The product is called: Multiply Underlay from Columbia Forest Products
in Nipigon, Ontario Canada.
Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: Will Samson [mailto:willsamson@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 2004 10:26 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Glue Question
Hi Tom,
I've used decent-looking 1/4" luan underlayment for boats, well epoxied,
and it's lasted for years and years.
I don't know about the glue, but urea formaldehyde is just like
Weldwood, I believe.
Try a scrap in the dishwasher for a few cycles.
Bill
website: Glue: Exterior grade phenolic glue (passes 2-hour boil test).
The product is called: Multiply Underlay from Columbia Forest Products
in Nipigon, Ontario Canada.
Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: Will Samson [mailto:willsamson@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 2004 10:26 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Glue Question
Hi Tom,
I've used decent-looking 1/4" luan underlayment for boats, well epoxied,
and it's lasted for years and years.
I don't know about the glue, but urea formaldehyde is just like
Weldwood, I believe.
Try a scrap in the dishwasher for a few cycles.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Hathaway
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 2004 6:06 PM
Subject: [bolger] Glue Question
I'm looking at some ¼-inch underlay at Lowe's for a boatbuilding
project. I don't see any voids and the surfaces look great. My
question is: Is Urea-Formaldehyde or Phenol Formaldehyde an exterior
glue?
Thanks,
Tom
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi Tom,
I've used decent-looking 1/4" luan underlayment for boats, well epoxied, and it's lasted for years and years.
I don't know about the glue, but urea formaldehyde is just like Weldwood, I believe.
Try a scrap in the dishwasher for a few cycles.
Bill
I've used decent-looking 1/4" luan underlayment for boats, well epoxied, and it's lasted for years and years.
I don't know about the glue, but urea formaldehyde is just like Weldwood, I believe.
Try a scrap in the dishwasher for a few cycles.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Hathaway
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 2004 6:06 PM
Subject: [bolger] Glue Question
I'm looking at some ¼-inch underlay at Lowe's for a boatbuilding
project. I don't see any voids and the surfaces look great. My
question is: Is Urea-Formaldehyde or Phenol Formaldehyde an exterior
glue?
Thanks,
Tom
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Gorilla glue actually...."premium strength wood glue".
--- In bolger@y..., "rnlocnil" <lincolnr@r...> wrote:
> Are you talking about PL Premium COnstruction adhesive or Probond?
I
> have never seen cookie dough so tough I had to cut it with a
chisel,
> but PL blobs are like that, and the instructions say you can fill
gaps
> with it. Probond urethane is another story entirely, tho I still
> venture to say it must be SLIGHTLY stronger than cookie dough.
> Certainly less water soluble.
> --- In bolger@y..., "dbaldnz" <oink@p...> wrote:
> > PL works for less demanding joints with large area if tightly
> > clamped.
> > As soon as you have it filling a gap, cookie mix would do as
strong
> > a job. Epoxy it aint.
> > DonB
> >
> > --- In bolger@y..., "proaconstrictor" <proaconstrictor@y...>
wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Yes, your are correct. Specifically, Elmers ProBond
> > polyurethane.
> > > >
> snip
Are you talking about PL Premium COnstruction adhesive or Probond? I
have never seen cookie dough so tough I had to cut it with a chisel,
but PL blobs are like that, and the instructions say you can fill gaps
with it. Probond urethane is another story entirely, tho I still
venture to say it must be SLIGHTLY stronger than cookie dough.
Certainly less water soluble.
have never seen cookie dough so tough I had to cut it with a chisel,
but PL blobs are like that, and the instructions say you can fill gaps
with it. Probond urethane is another story entirely, tho I still
venture to say it must be SLIGHTLY stronger than cookie dough.
Certainly less water soluble.
--- In bolger@y..., "dbaldnz" <oink@p...> wrote:
> PL works for less demanding joints with large area if tightly
> clamped.
> As soon as you have it filling a gap, cookie mix would do as strong
> a job. Epoxy it aint.
> DonB
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "proaconstrictor" <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Yes, your are correct. Specifically, Elmers ProBond
> polyurethane.
> > >
snip
proaconstrictor wrote:
There's been a some discussion of PL taping over in the Mouseboats group, as well at David
Beede's. Here's two ways of doing it. Some are going over the bumpy construction PL with
the Concrete version or Bondo to smooth it out.
I'm sure it works but doubt it's any easier or cheaper than poly or even epoxy resin. (
Some folks just hate epoxy. ) Since he builds the boats with children, David Colpitts
developed this for working fast and partly to contsain the mess and to avoid toxicity. See
these messages from him
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mouseboats/message/830
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mouseboats/message/745
I can't find the fairly recent one where he tells just how he does it.
BTW If you recycle your TP, then you'd really have a sh***y boat!
Mark
>TD,
> --- In bolger@y..., "lewisboats" <numbaoneman@b...> wrote:
> > Mr David Colpitts uses Pl Premium and Drywall mesh tape to tape and
> > fillet the chines of the boats he holds building classes for.
>
> That's interesting. Are there any fasteners/stringers in the joint?
> Am I not right in the impression that paper tape is actualy stronger
> that the drywall mesh tape? Maybe we should just use toilet paper.
> It comes in a handy width, and a serviceable length.
There's been a some discussion of PL taping over in the Mouseboats group, as well at David
Beede's. Here's two ways of doing it. Some are going over the bumpy construction PL with
the Concrete version or Bondo to smooth it out.
I'm sure it works but doubt it's any easier or cheaper than poly or even epoxy resin. (
Some folks just hate epoxy. ) Since he builds the boats with children, David Colpitts
developed this for working fast and partly to contsain the mess and to avoid toxicity. See
these messages from him
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mouseboats/message/830
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mouseboats/message/745
I can't find the fairly recent one where he tells just how he does it.
BTW If you recycle your TP, then you'd really have a sh***y boat!
Mark
> Ian & Luis,
>
> I think if I were to try this I'd put in about a 1/4 to 3/8ths inch fillet of Pl before
> adding the tape, just as is done with standard resin taping and as David does, I think.
> This would make sure there was plenty of goo down in the corner where it's needed. I doubt
> the wallboard tape 'saturates' in the same way as fiberglass. As described, the sticking
> will be only with what you can work through the squares and with the questionable
> wallboard tape glue.
>
> Just squirt a line of it and make ONE quick pass with a tongue depressor or something. (
> Just one because if you try to smooth the PL it gets bumpier. ) Also, remember, though
> it's hard to find on the tube, as a polyurethane product it likes a little moisture on the surface.
>
> Mark
>
> ihmserv wrote:
> >
> > Hi luis
> > put a layer of wall board tape over the seams sticky side to the
> > hull, I usually rub it down with a plastic putty knive, i then add a
> > second layer of tape right over the first same procedure with the
> > putty knife.
> > Then put down a heavy bead of pl and spread into the tape and a
> > little beyond with the putty knife.
> > if your are using pl premium 24 hours dry time, if you are using pl
> > concrete 48 hours dry time before proceeding.
> >
> > ian
> > --- In mouseboats@y..., "luis gonzalez" <dentalcreations@e...> wrote:
> > > when taping with PL and fiber board tape.
> > > whats the procedure?
> > >
> > > i notice the tape has some adhisive on it.
> > > do i lay the tape and then spatulate the pl over it?
> > >
> > > also ..how long should i let the pl dry?
> > >
> > > thanks
> > >
> > > luis
PL works for less demanding joints with large area if tightly
clamped.
As soon as you have it filling a gap, cookie mix would do as strong
a job. Epoxy it aint.
DonB
clamped.
As soon as you have it filling a gap, cookie mix would do as strong
a job. Epoxy it aint.
DonB
--- In bolger@y..., "proaconstrictor" <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
>
> >
> > Yes, your are correct. Specifically, Elmers ProBond
polyurethane.
> >
> > The things I like about it is that it expands to fill poorly
fitted
> > joints,
>
> I am hearing a lot of failures in this use. Can't remember which
> group was discusiong this recently. Not surprising that this
would
> be so, since it is less strong (thereabouts) than blue foam when
> expanded.
>I am hearing a lot of failures in this use. Can't remember which
> Yes, your are correct. Specifically, Elmers ProBond polyurethane.
>
> The things I like about it is that it expands to fill poorly fitted
> joints,
group was discusiong this recently. Not surprising that this would
be so, since it is less strong (thereabouts) than blue foam when
expanded.
I like the stuff (ProBond Urethane) too, but it seems to me that when
it foams it has little strength left so I don't trust it to fill gaps
and only use it on tight fitting joints. I don't use it anymore,
actually, due to the price, but I got some to see what it was like. PL
that's set seems to have more strength tho I still wouldn't expect it
to act like epoxy.
it foams it has little strength left so I don't trust it to fill gaps
and only use it on tight fitting joints. I don't use it anymore,
actually, due to the price, but I got some to see what it was like. PL
that's set seems to have more strength tho I still wouldn't expect it
to act like epoxy.
--- In bolger@y..., "brucehallman" <brucehallman@y...> wrote:
> --- In bolger@y..., Mark Albanese <marka@h...> wrote:
snip> Specifically, Elmers ProBond polyurethane.
>
> The things I like about it is that it expands to fill poorly fitted
> joints, snip
It only pays to use stuff that's "good enuf". Sometimes that's a
little better than what you were thinking of using, sometimes it
isn't. Knowing what's what is the important thing, as well as having a
pretty good idea of how and how much the boat is too be used. Some
people live away from the city and may have lots of cheap space, no
cable, and a dislike of reading. THen using up time is a good thing
and using up space is not a problem. And an old boat is a planter,
playground toy, or sandbox until it's humus. I myself like sending up
the entire name brand mystique and will avoid using the big company's
product if I know something just as good for what I'm doing. Too much
worship of name brand will obliterate bolgerista activities.
little better than what you were thinking of using, sometimes it
isn't. Knowing what's what is the important thing, as well as having a
pretty good idea of how and how much the boat is too be used. Some
people live away from the city and may have lots of cheap space, no
cable, and a dislike of reading. THen using up time is a good thing
and using up space is not a problem. And an old boat is a planter,
playground toy, or sandbox until it's humus. I myself like sending up
the entire name brand mystique and will avoid using the big company's
product if I know something just as good for what I'm doing. Too much
worship of name brand will obliterate bolgerista activities.
--- In bolger@y..., wmrpage@a... wrote:
snip
> A boat, by definition (I'm quite certain this is in the O.E.D.), is
a hole in
> the water into which one pours money.
snip
--- In bolger@y..., Mark Albanese <marka@h...> wrote:
The things I like about it is that it expands to fill poorly fitted
joints, it has plenty of working time, but cures in two or three
hours. I also like that it is *really* sticky.
It has only a few downsides, it requires water to cure, it is a
little bit on the expensive side [but a little of the stuff goes a
long ways], cleanup is not that easy [if you don't act quick], and
you have to clamp the joints during cure [or else], and if you let
moisture inside the glue bottle the glue gets ruined.
> Bruce,Yes, your are correct. Specifically, Elmers ProBond polyurethane.
> I think you ust mean polyurethane.
The things I like about it is that it expands to fill poorly fitted
joints, it has plenty of working time, but cures in two or three
hours. I also like that it is *really* sticky.
It has only a few downsides, it requires water to cure, it is a
little bit on the expensive side [but a little of the stuff goes a
long ways], cleanup is not that easy [if you don't act quick], and
you have to clamp the joints during cure [or else], and if you let
moisture inside the glue bottle the glue gets ruined.
I've used PL for butt blocks on a couple of boats with good results. I also
put a strip of fiberglass tape on the outside of the joint
to support it and keep the crack from flexing and opening up to let water
in. This hybrid joint puts the compression stress on the butt block and the
tension stress on the glass tape. It seems to match the best qualities of
both joints.
Roger S
From: "Mark Albanese" <marka@...>
put a strip of fiberglass tape on the outside of the joint
to support it and keep the crack from flexing and opening up to let water
in. This hybrid joint puts the compression stress on the butt block and the
tension stress on the glass tape. It seems to match the best qualities of
both joints.
Roger S
From: "Mark Albanese" <marka@...>
>worry is for the
> BTW If you stick with the PL construction adhesive, the one place I might
> butt blocks. I don't know without researching if others used PLsuccessfully there. With
> epoxy you needn't have any fasteners through them at all. If you've gotsome rivets left
> over from your plane, putting some through would help. Or at least plentyof clenched
> nails -which can be ugly. Instead of the plywood scarfs you might justuse 1 x 4 lumber
> on the flat, and just nail into them.
In a message dated 8/3/02 8:13:47 PM Central Daylight Time,
michialt@...writes:
the water into which one pours money. In this context, "cheap" seems to be an
arbitrarily self-imposed objective, not an economic one - I mean, how much
could enough glue for "Junebug" cost, as a percentage of the total costs of
building space, water access, transport, time diverted from remunerative
activities, paint, other materials, etc.? Especially if you have surplus
epoxy sitting in the shop, just aging, with nowhere to go! Then, consider the
disposal cost, if you manage to contrive to build a boat that lasts one
season and no more (on the order of O.W. Holmes' "One Horse Shay")! Are you
going to donate the relic to the local boys & girls club when the seams are
full of putrid fungus and the boat is on its last legs? (Assuming it doesn't
just come apart on your LAST sail of the season, leaving you treading water?)
I know my trash collector wouldn't touch such a thing with a barge pole if I
left on the curb with my trash! I certainly do not know what I would need to
do to legally and responsibly dispose of such a boat carcass, but I doubt it
would be inexpensive or convenient!
For easy (no mixing, "long pot-life"), quick assembly and reliable adhesion,
I recommend a tube of 3M 5200 and a caulking gun. If you decide you really
like the boat (a possibility, however remote), you will be able to
contemplate your other short-cuts in precision, paint, sheathing, flotation,
etc. with the confidence that the fundamental parts are will deterioate
before they separate.
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
michialt@...writes:
> Has anyone used any of the polyester glues, or Carpenters Glue like TiteA boat, by definition (I'm quite certain this is in the O.E.D.), is a hole in
> Bond for building?
>
> I am looking as cheap as possibe, and expecting to get what I pay for.
the water into which one pours money. In this context, "cheap" seems to be an
arbitrarily self-imposed objective, not an economic one - I mean, how much
could enough glue for "Junebug" cost, as a percentage of the total costs of
building space, water access, transport, time diverted from remunerative
activities, paint, other materials, etc.? Especially if you have surplus
epoxy sitting in the shop, just aging, with nowhere to go! Then, consider the
disposal cost, if you manage to contrive to build a boat that lasts one
season and no more (on the order of O.W. Holmes' "One Horse Shay")! Are you
going to donate the relic to the local boys & girls club when the seams are
full of putrid fungus and the boat is on its last legs? (Assuming it doesn't
just come apart on your LAST sail of the season, leaving you treading water?)
I know my trash collector wouldn't touch such a thing with a barge pole if I
left on the curb with my trash! I certainly do not know what I would need to
do to legally and responsibly dispose of such a boat carcass, but I doubt it
would be inexpensive or convenient!
For easy (no mixing, "long pot-life"), quick assembly and reliable adhesion,
I recommend a tube of 3M 5200 and a caulking gun. If you decide you really
like the boat (a possibility, however remote), you will be able to
contemplate your other short-cuts in precision, paint, sheathing, flotation,
etc. with the confidence that the fundamental parts are will deterioate
before they separate.
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- In bolger@y..., "rnlocnil" <lincolnr@r...> wrote:
adhere to them (one of the few steps in an instant boat), you put
some glue on the mating surfaces, and use a narrow crown stappler (or
other device to tack them down. Then you apply clamps to the ends,
and let them sag between two chairs or something. The clamps etc...
hold the position, and that bend forcess the inside shears against
the ply for a perfect clampless, and few fasteners bond. Its in
their book.
> Could you explain this again? I don't quite follow it. Soundsthen
> interesting to the extent that I understand. I'm especially
> unclear on what you mean by "shear". Thanks.
> --- In bolger@y..., "proaconstrictor" <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
> snip The Gougeons have just stappled
> > (drywall screws would work also) their shears to the ply, and
> > bend it in the direction of the bend it (suspend by ends so itIf you have a ply panel, and some stringer, lumber, gunnels etc.. to
> > droops) will occupy in the final boat. This is a cheap, fast
> > technique that gives a 100% bonded surface with epoxy, might work
> > with poly also. Gaps aren't inevitable.
adhere to them (one of the few steps in an instant boat), you put
some glue on the mating surfaces, and use a narrow crown stappler (or
other device to tack them down. Then you apply clamps to the ends,
and let them sag between two chairs or something. The clamps etc...
hold the position, and that bend forcess the inside shears against
the ply for a perfect clampless, and few fasteners bond. Its in
their book.
Could you explain this again? I don't quite follow it. Sounds
interesting to the extent that I understand. I'm especially
unclear on what you mean by "shear". Thanks.
interesting to the extent that I understand. I'm especially
unclear on what you mean by "shear". Thanks.
--- In bolger@y..., "proaconstrictor" <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
snip The Gougeons have just stappled
> (drywall screws would work also) their shears to the ply, and then
> bend it in the direction of the bend it (suspend by ends so it
> droops) will occupy in the final boat. This is a cheap, fast
> technique that gives a 100% bonded surface with epoxy, might work
> with poly also. Gaps aren't inevitable.
--- In bolger@y..., "lewisboats" <numbaoneman@b...> wrote:
Am I not right in the impression that paper tape is actualy stronger
that the drywall mesh tape? Maybe we should just use toilet paper.
It comes in a handy width, and a serviceable length.
> Mr David Colpitts uses Pl Premium and Drywall mesh tape to tape andThat's interesting. Are there any fasteners/stringers in the joint?
> fillet the chines of the boats he holds building classes for.
Am I not right in the impression that paper tape is actualy stronger
that the drywall mesh tape? Maybe we should just use toilet paper.
It comes in a handy width, and a serviceable length.
> The reason that the June Bug I build is likely to have a gap or twoin it
> is that I am building it quickly to get it on the water ASAP, AND Iam not
> putting emphasis on perfection, but instead working towardsadequate.
>Sounds like a fine objective. The Gougeons have just stappled
>
(drywall screws would work also) their shears to the ply, and then
bend it in the direction of the bend it (suspend by ends so it
droops) will occupy in the final boat. This is a cheap, fast
technique that gives a 100% bonded surface with epoxy, might work
with poly also. Gaps aren't inevitable.
If you are using something like ring shank nails, you could probably
leave glue out, if all you want it a year or so.
I think that's reasonable. You picked the right boat for it. In boats, like airplanes I
think, the difference between adequate and first rate is not that far. Where I have found
the greatest savings in time and even money is not the structure but in finish work.
BTW If you stick with the PL construction adhesive, the one place I might worry is for the
butt blocks. I don't know without researching if others used PL successfully there. With
epoxy you needn't have any fasteners through them at all. If you've got some rivets left
over from your plane, putting some through would help. Or at least plenty of clenched
nails -which can be ugly. Instead of the plywood scarfs you might just use 1 x 4 lumber
on the flat, and just nail into them.
You'll probably build a better boat than you expect to, Mike. Enjoy.
Michial Thompson wrote:
think, the difference between adequate and first rate is not that far. Where I have found
the greatest savings in time and even money is not the structure but in finish work.
BTW If you stick with the PL construction adhesive, the one place I might worry is for the
butt blocks. I don't know without researching if others used PL successfully there. With
epoxy you needn't have any fasteners through them at all. If you've got some rivets left
over from your plane, putting some through would help. Or at least plenty of clenched
nails -which can be ugly. Instead of the plywood scarfs you might just use 1 x 4 lumber
on the flat, and just nail into them.
You'll probably build a better boat than you expect to, Mike. Enjoy.
Michial Thompson wrote:
> The reason that the June Bug I build is likely to have a gap or two in it
> is that I am building it quickly to get it on the water ASAP, AND I am not
> putting emphasis on perfection, but instead working towards adequate.
>
Mr David Colpitts uses Pl Premium and Drywall mesh tape to tape and
fillet the chines of the boats he holds building classes for. Pl
Premium and Pl Concrete are excellent for building boats, tough,
waterproof and easily applied. Getting a "Kit" from one of the epoxy
suppliers is a viable option too. Some of the kits are sized
perfectly for taping specific sized boats together, and are
relatively inexpensive. I personally am a fan of making my own glue
out of epoxy and wood flour or milled glass, but I have build more
than one boat out of PL and am using it on one I am building now. In
any case that you pick, the glue must state that it is waterPROOF. PL
is really the least expensive option though, IMHO.
Steve.
fillet the chines of the boats he holds building classes for. Pl
Premium and Pl Concrete are excellent for building boats, tough,
waterproof and easily applied. Getting a "Kit" from one of the epoxy
suppliers is a viable option too. Some of the kits are sized
perfectly for taping specific sized boats together, and are
relatively inexpensive. I personally am a fan of making my own glue
out of epoxy and wood flour or milled glass, but I have build more
than one boat out of PL and am using it on one I am building now. In
any case that you pick, the glue must state that it is waterPROOF. PL
is really the least expensive option though, IMHO.
Steve.
--- In bolger@y..., Michial Thompson <michialt@u...> wrote:
> Not sure if I have any gaps yet, but considering my past
experiences I'm
> going to have a few...
>
> At 08:06 PM 8/3/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>
> >Michial,
> >
> >The PL Premium in caulking tubes IS good enough stickum though,
and will
> >fill up to a
> >3/8ths gap. If you've got a lot of gaps or a very long one, both
hard to
> >imagine for a
> >June Bug, then you need epoxy and some thickeners.
> >
> >Mark
> >Michial Thompson wrote:
> > >
> > > My first thought was Liquid Nail because I have used it before
inside, and
> > > it doesn't give up, but it said on it's label not for outdoors.
> > >
> > > I didn't recognize any of the other glues by brand, but they
were for
> > > outdoor, any particular brands work better than others
(especially for join
> > > filling)?
> > >
> > > I use Tite Bond on model planes, and as long as you have good
joints it
> > > works well, but it weekend quickly if its not a tight fit.
> > >
> > > At 02:02 AM 8/4/2002 +0000, you wrote:
> > >
> > > >--- In bolger@y..., Michial Thompson <michialt@u...> wrote:
> > > > > Has anyone used polyester glues, or Carpenters Glue like
Tite
> > > > > Bond for building?
> > > >
> > > >I have used both, and personally prefer polyester.
> > > >
> > > > > I realize calling the June Bug a disposable learning tool
> > > > > is probably an insult to Mr. Bulger's design.
> > > >
> > > >I think Mr. Bulger <g> would think that "Instant Boats"
actually are
> > > >best suited for quick and dirty construction. If you are going
> > > >to "gold plate" a boat, build something more old style classic.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Bolger rules!!!
> > > >- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
horses
> > > >- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks,
Fred' posts
> > > >- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and
<snip> away
> > > >- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA,
> > > >01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > >- Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> > > >- Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@y...
> > > >
> > > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >---
> > > >Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
> > > >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> > > >Version: 6.0.377 / Virus Database: 211 - Release Date:
7/15/2002
> > >
> > > ----------
> > >
> > > ---
> > > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> > > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> > > Version: 6.0.377 / Virus Database: 211 - Release Date: 7/15/2002
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
horses
> > > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks,
Fred' posts
> > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and
<snip> away
> > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA,
> > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> > > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@y...
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >Bolger rules!!!
> >- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> >- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
posts
> >- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and
<snip> away
> >- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
MA,
> >01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> >- Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> >- Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@y...
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >---
> >Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
> >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> >Version: 6.0.377 / Virus Database: 211 - Release Date: 7/15/2002
>
> ----------
>
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.377 / Virus Database: 211 - Release Date: 7/15/2002
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
LOL...
Yes I've build ONE airplane :) And the reason I have enough plywood left
over to build a June Bug or two is because I worked with the knowledge of
my skills (or lack of). I kept excess onhand so that when I did not get a
good fit I could/would remake the part. The majority of the work on my
plane was done with a router using templates. I averaged making 3
templates for every part.
The reason that the June Bug I build is likely to have a gap or two in it
is that I am building it quickly to get it on the water ASAP, AND I am not
putting emphasis on perfection, but instead working towards adequate.
At 09:34 PM 8/3/2002 -0700, you wrote:
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.377 / Virus Database: 211 - Release Date: 7/15/2002
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Yes I've build ONE airplane :) And the reason I have enough plywood left
over to build a June Bug or two is because I worked with the knowledge of
my skills (or lack of). I kept excess onhand so that when I did not get a
good fit I could/would remake the part. The majority of the work on my
plane was done with a router using templates. I averaged making 3
templates for every part.
The reason that the June Bug I build is likely to have a gap or two in it
is that I am building it quickly to get it on the water ASAP, AND I am not
putting emphasis on perfection, but instead working towards adequate.
At 09:34 PM 8/3/2002 -0700, you wrote:
> > Not sure if I have any gaps yet, but considering my past experiences I'm----------
> > going to have a few...
>
>And you've been building airplanes??? Remind me, please, to stay away from
>airports.
>Better stick with PL. Find it at HD or Lowes. You probably need 4 or 5
>tubes. It's just
>what you'll like.
>
>Mark
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
>01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>---
>Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
>Version: 6.0.377 / Virus Database: 211 - Release Date: 7/15/2002
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.377 / Virus Database: 211 - Release Date: 7/15/2002
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I am always interesting in Bolgers perspective. In 1999 issues
of "Messing About in Boats" he had a 3 parts series about Ocean
Passagemaker #653 "Tahiti" 38'6", 9'6" flat bottom V bow. This was
on Bolger/Bolger2 but was taken down maybe for copywrite?
If anyone needs this I would be glad to email.
Buehlers interesting ideas about Trawler vs. Troller from "The
Troller Yacht Book":
http://dieselducks.com/Concept.html
Mat
of "Messing About in Boats" he had a 3 parts series about Ocean
Passagemaker #653 "Tahiti" 38'6", 9'6" flat bottom V bow. This was
on Bolger/Bolger2 but was taken down maybe for copywrite?
If anyone needs this I would be glad to email.
Buehlers interesting ideas about Trawler vs. Troller from "The
Troller Yacht Book":
http://dieselducks.com/Concept.html
Mat
Fritz Funk has used PL Premium by the tube full with great success. He
has it sitting around in a caulking gun and just pulls the nail or screw
stopper out of the end and lets fly when he needs glue. I have not seen
any failures yet.
HJ
Roger S wrote:
has it sitting around in a caulking gun and just pulls the nail or screw
stopper out of the end and lets fly when he needs glue. I have not seen
any failures yet.
HJ
Roger S wrote:
>
> The PL Premium and PL Concrete adhesives are very popular.
>
> > I am getting ready to put a June Bug together, and was looking at glue.
> >
> > I have a few questions:
> >
> > Has anyone used any of the polyester glues, or Carpenters Glue like Tite
> > Bond for building?
> >
> > I am looking as cheap as possibe, and expecting to get what I pay for. I
> > am looking at the June Bug, and building for a single season of learning
> > the basics of sailing in Texas on local lakes.
> >
> > I realize calling the June Bug a disposable learning tool is probably an
> > insult to Mr. Bulger's design. My expectations is to have the June Bug
> > built on 2-3 weekends, and then painted on the 4th, and sailing on the 5th
> > weekend.
> >
> Not sure if I have any gaps yet, but considering my past experiences I'mAnd you've been building airplanes??? Remind me, please, to stay away from airports.
> going to have a few...
Better stick with PL. Find it at HD or Lowes. You probably need 4 or 5 tubes. It's just
what you'll like.
Mark
Unless you are planning on sheathing, then there isn't much glue in a
boat like this. You buy a few tubes of PL, most of it hardens off in
the tube. You could be dobbing epoxy out of the same bottles for ten
years. Seems like your spending money to me. If there is anything
that needs repair on your 20 footer, I won't be the one reaching for
the PL.
Mark, as usual, is right about the powder, though for me, it hasn't
been locally available (read easily) for a while.
I built my EEEK using PL, and Elmer's, but was so unimpressed I coved
and glassed everything. Now I'm stuck with it.
I always sheath. So I use epoxy there too. That adds a lot of cost,
but gives you a lifetime project. It also gives you some cool skills
(you may already have). I don't know if you know how great a boat
this could be. You may regret it when it congeals with the pond scum.
boat like this. You buy a few tubes of PL, most of it hardens off in
the tube. You could be dobbing epoxy out of the same bottles for ten
years. Seems like your spending money to me. If there is anything
that needs repair on your 20 footer, I won't be the one reaching for
the PL.
Mark, as usual, is right about the powder, though for me, it hasn't
been locally available (read easily) for a while.
I built my EEEK using PL, and Elmer's, but was so unimpressed I coved
and glassed everything. Now I'm stuck with it.
I always sheath. So I use epoxy there too. That adds a lot of cost,
but gives you a lifetime project. It also gives you some cool skills
(you may already have). I don't know if you know how great a boat
this could be. You may regret it when it congeals with the pond scum.
Use epoxy please, put glass on the outside chines only, and keep the boat
painted. You will save, what, $15, by using a cheaper glue? Spend the extra
$15, and you can use it for a couple of more years.
The pirogues I built with just glass and epoxy on the chines, then paint,
over lauan, are going on their forth year. The sun is causing the wood to
check and the glass to fail, finaly, where I haven't touched up the paint.
These were supposed to be "disposible" boats, so I left them upside down,
out in the weather with the paint scratched off in places to see how they
faired.
Were there is still paint, they are as good as new.
painted. You will save, what, $15, by using a cheaper glue? Spend the extra
$15, and you can use it for a couple of more years.
The pirogues I built with just glass and epoxy on the chines, then paint,
over lauan, are going on their forth year. The sun is causing the wood to
check and the glass to fail, finaly, where I haven't touched up the paint.
These were supposed to be "disposible" boats, so I left them upside down,
out in the weather with the paint scratched off in places to see how they
faired.
Were there is still paint, they are as good as new.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michial Thompson" <michialt@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2002 8:15 PM
Subject: [bolger] Glue Question
| I am getting ready to put a June Bug together, and was looking at glue.
|
| I have a few questions:
|
| Has anyone used any of the polyester glues, or Carpenters Glue like Tite
| Bond for building?
|
| I am looking as cheap as possibe, and expecting to get what I pay for. I
| am looking at the June Bug, and building for a single season of learning
| the basics of sailing in Texas on local lakes.
|
| I realize calling the June Bug a disposable learning tool is probably an
| insult to Mr. Bulger's design. My expectations is to have the June Bug
| built on 2-3 weekends, and then painted on the 4th, and sailing on the 5th
| weekend.
|
| ----------
|
|
| ---
| Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
| Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
| Version: 6.0.377 / Virus Database: 211 - Release Date: 7/15/2002
|
|
| [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
|
| Bolger rules!!!
| - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
| - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
| - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
| - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
| - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
| - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
|
| Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
|
|
|
PL Premium Construction Adhesive (they make other glues) is easy to
work with in warm weather, not so easy when it's cold but it does
work. I haven't used it in the water a lot yet, but some, and I guess
people say it holds up.
Does anyone know how fast it sets up in warm weather? When it's 40 F,
it takes maybe a week as I recall, but I'm thinking of using it for a
dinghy project next week if it sets up fast enough.
On the plywood, some of the cheap stuff is ok, try boiling a little
piece in water for 1/2 hour or an hour. You can see a real difference
between different batches. Probably a bad idea to use kitchen pots,
tho, as who knows what eating traces of the glue will do to you. We
have a luan boat that has held up for several years including some
storage outside. No checking. Fir and, in my experience, southern
yellow pine, can check. THe latex house paint has held up well, too.
The polyester resin has not. Some people are mentioning Titebond, but
I hope they mean Titebond 2, as the latter is actually supposed to be
water resistant (NOT water proof). Seems to me PL Construction
Adhesive is a better bet. Raka epoxy is not all that expensive, tho,
as I think you might need only a quart or two for June Bug.
Consider whether you really need the bigger boat, especially before
you learn to sail. Bigger boats have stuff like motors, radios,
electrical system, stainless rigging, expensive sails, trailers,
registration, insurance, bottom paint, moorings, maintenance, etc. I
go out with a friend on a MacGregor 25 and get to see how much trouble
he goes thru. Plus have you ever been deputised to motor across the
crowded anchorage with thousands of boats in it after dark when you
have forgotten to take off your sunglasses so that the boat can be
taken to a marina for anti fouling paint? My favorite thing to do with
a boat is to just go for a row with my s.o. for a couple of hours.
Simple and easy, tho someone did call out "Noah" as we rolled one
down the sidewalk to the river. The June Bug should be nice for that,
I'd guess, tho I've never tried one. Rowing is a great dating activity
if you want face time.
P.S. If the Bohndell sails are still the same, you would be well
advised to spring for one. Very nice.
work with in warm weather, not so easy when it's cold but it does
work. I haven't used it in the water a lot yet, but some, and I guess
people say it holds up.
Does anyone know how fast it sets up in warm weather? When it's 40 F,
it takes maybe a week as I recall, but I'm thinking of using it for a
dinghy project next week if it sets up fast enough.
On the plywood, some of the cheap stuff is ok, try boiling a little
piece in water for 1/2 hour or an hour. You can see a real difference
between different batches. Probably a bad idea to use kitchen pots,
tho, as who knows what eating traces of the glue will do to you. We
have a luan boat that has held up for several years including some
storage outside. No checking. Fir and, in my experience, southern
yellow pine, can check. THe latex house paint has held up well, too.
The polyester resin has not. Some people are mentioning Titebond, but
I hope they mean Titebond 2, as the latter is actually supposed to be
water resistant (NOT water proof). Seems to me PL Construction
Adhesive is a better bet. Raka epoxy is not all that expensive, tho,
as I think you might need only a quart or two for June Bug.
Consider whether you really need the bigger boat, especially before
you learn to sail. Bigger boats have stuff like motors, radios,
electrical system, stainless rigging, expensive sails, trailers,
registration, insurance, bottom paint, moorings, maintenance, etc. I
go out with a friend on a MacGregor 25 and get to see how much trouble
he goes thru. Plus have you ever been deputised to motor across the
crowded anchorage with thousands of boats in it after dark when you
have forgotten to take off your sunglasses so that the boat can be
taken to a marina for anti fouling paint? My favorite thing to do with
a boat is to just go for a row with my s.o. for a couple of hours.
Simple and easy, tho someone did call out "Noah" as we rolled one
down the sidewalk to the river. The June Bug should be nice for that,
I'd guess, tho I've never tried one. Rowing is a great dating activity
if you want face time.
P.S. If the Bohndell sails are still the same, you would be well
advised to spring for one. Very nice.
--- In bolger@y..., Michial Thompson <michialt@u...> wrote:
snip
>
> In 2-3 weeks I will be buying a 22'+ sail boat, that will be my main
boat,
snip but plan to spend the
days
> learning on a June Bug,snip
>
> I know full well the costs of using cheap materials, I have a hangar
full
> of scrapped pieces that didn't cut the Mustard because I went cheap.
snip
Not sure if I have any gaps yet, but considering my past experiences I'm
going to have a few...
At 08:06 PM 8/3/2002 -0700, you wrote:
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.377 / Virus Database: 211 - Release Date: 7/15/2002
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
going to have a few...
At 08:06 PM 8/3/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>Michial,----------
>
>The PL Premium in caulking tubes IS good enough stickum though, and will
>fill up to a
>3/8ths gap. If you've got a lot of gaps or a very long one, both hard to
>imagine for a
>June Bug, then you need epoxy and some thickeners.
>
>Mark
>Michial Thompson wrote:
> >
> > My first thought was Liquid Nail because I have used it before inside, and
> > it doesn't give up, but it said on it's label not for outdoors.
> >
> > I didn't recognize any of the other glues by brand, but they were for
> > outdoor, any particular brands work better than others (especially for join
> > filling)?
> >
> > I use Tite Bond on model planes, and as long as you have good joints it
> > works well, but it weekend quickly if its not a tight fit.
> >
> > At 02:02 AM 8/4/2002 +0000, you wrote:
> >
> > >--- In bolger@y..., Michial Thompson <michialt@u...> wrote:
> > > > Has anyone used polyester glues, or Carpenters Glue like Tite
> > > > Bond for building?
> > >
> > >I have used both, and personally prefer polyester.
> > >
> > > > I realize calling the June Bug a disposable learning tool
> > > > is probably an insult to Mr. Bulger's design.
> > >
> > >I think Mr. Bulger <g> would think that "Instant Boats" actually are
> > >best suited for quick and dirty construction. If you are going
> > >to "gold plate" a boat, build something more old style classic.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >Bolger rules!!!
> > >- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > >- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> > >- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> > >- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> > >01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > >- Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >- Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >---
> > >Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
> > >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> > >Version: 6.0.377 / Virus Database: 211 - Release Date: 7/15/2002
> >
> > ----------
> >
> > ---
> > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> > Version: 6.0.377 / Virus Database: 211 - Release Date: 7/15/2002
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
>01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>---
>Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
>Version: 6.0.377 / Virus Database: 211 - Release Date: 7/15/2002
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.377 / Virus Database: 211 - Release Date: 7/15/2002
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Michial,
The PL Premium in caulking tubes IS good enough stickum though, and will fill up to a
3/8ths gap. If you've got a lot of gaps or a very long one, both hard to imagine for a
June Bug, then you need epoxy and some thickeners.
Mark
Michial Thompson wrote:
The PL Premium in caulking tubes IS good enough stickum though, and will fill up to a
3/8ths gap. If you've got a lot of gaps or a very long one, both hard to imagine for a
June Bug, then you need epoxy and some thickeners.
Mark
Michial Thompson wrote:
>
> My first thought was Liquid Nail because I have used it before inside, and
> it doesn't give up, but it said on it's label not for outdoors.
>
> I didn't recognize any of the other glues by brand, but they were for
> outdoor, any particular brands work better than others (especially for join
> filling)?
>
> I use Tite Bond on model planes, and as long as you have good joints it
> works well, but it weekend quickly if its not a tight fit.
>
> At 02:02 AM 8/4/2002 +0000, you wrote:
>
> >--- In bolger@y..., Michial Thompson <michialt@u...> wrote:
> > > Has anyone used polyester glues, or Carpenters Glue like Tite
> > > Bond for building?
> >
> >I have used both, and personally prefer polyester.
> >
> > > I realize calling the June Bug a disposable learning tool
> > > is probably an insult to Mr. Bulger's design.
> >
> >I think Mr. Bulger <g> would think that "Instant Boats" actually are
> >best suited for quick and dirty construction. If you are going
> >to "gold plate" a boat, build something more old style classic.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Bolger rules!!!
> >- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> >- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> >- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> >- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> >01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> >- Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >- Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >---
> >Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
> >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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>
> ----------
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.377 / Virus Database: 211 - Release Date: 7/15/2002
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
I am using a-b Marine ply left over from an airplane that I built, and pine
2x4's, If it wasn't for the extra I would have used exterior plywood.
In 2-3 weeks I will be buying a 22'+ sail boat, that will be my main boat,
but since I don't know how to sail yet, and have been told that learning on
a bigger boat doesn't sharpen the skills, and reactions as well or as
quickly as a smaller one.
I'll have the larger in a slip for overnights, but plan to spend the days
learning on a June Bug, once I manage to take the June Bug out for a 2-3
hour ride, without capsizing, or needing the oars I've begin venturing out
away from the slip with the larger one pulling the June Bug, anchor where
ever, practicing with June Bug, and then returning to the larger for the
fishing and camping...
I know full well the costs of using cheap materials, I have a hangar full
of scrapped pieces that didn't cut the Mustard because I went cheap. But
something's are intended to be short lived, hence can be more disposable
than something that is expected to last a lifetime....
At 02:16 AM 8/4/2002 +0000, you wrote:
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.377 / Virus Database: 211 - Release Date: 7/15/2002
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2x4's, If it wasn't for the extra I would have used exterior plywood.
In 2-3 weeks I will be buying a 22'+ sail boat, that will be my main boat,
but since I don't know how to sail yet, and have been told that learning on
a bigger boat doesn't sharpen the skills, and reactions as well or as
quickly as a smaller one.
I'll have the larger in a slip for overnights, but plan to spend the days
learning on a June Bug, once I manage to take the June Bug out for a 2-3
hour ride, without capsizing, or needing the oars I've begin venturing out
away from the slip with the larger one pulling the June Bug, anchor where
ever, practicing with June Bug, and then returning to the larger for the
fishing and camping...
I know full well the costs of using cheap materials, I have a hangar full
of scrapped pieces that didn't cut the Mustard because I went cheap. But
something's are intended to be short lived, hence can be more disposable
than something that is expected to last a lifetime....
At 02:16 AM 8/4/2002 +0000, you wrote:
>A year after building a Nymph, Diablo, Skimmer and Pirogue of cheap----------
>1/4" mahogany underlay (outer mahogany layers as thin as frogs hair
>with a thick mystery meat centre ply) I wish I'd used better ply. I
>opted for cheap because I wasn't sure anything I could build would
>even float, let alone be a decent, well behaved craft. Outer layers
>are delaiminating and will require massive epoxy injections to keep
>the fleet afloat. The Gorilla glue that bubbled out around the butt
>blocks leaves me afraid to go very far from the dock.
>
>Build her cheap if you must, but only for $$$ resons, she'll turn out
>fine and you'll get lots of compliments and more dockside
>conversations than any store bought boat will ever start.
>
>When the craft you're so rightly proud of begins to fall apart far to
>soon you may end up pouring far more bucks in to save her than better
>materials would have cost in the first place.
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
>01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>---
>Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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>The Pilgram's study plans are good. They consist of 4 pages of
> Jeff, what is included with the study plans? Some packets I
> have
> sent for from other designers have left me feeling robbed by
> the lack of content, I have never ordered study plans from
> Bolger or Buehler to date.
views including one page showing how the frames and keep are
assembled. Better than most I would guess.
Mr. Buehler says to carry in sand bags up to 1000 lbs to get
her sitting where you want after loaded for cruising. Then
pull the boat and bolt on steel weights to corresponding
locations. Using RR steel would probably be less than ideal in
getting it located properly. Since the Pilgram is a bit light
in weight the difference in which motor and location of tanks
will make a difference in her ballast location. He did warn
that adding 1000 lbs would quicken her roll moment meaning
she'd have a meaner snap back upright on a side roll but would
be smoother working to windward and running.
I really thought of building the Pilgram, space and draft where
my issues. Also, I had a real need to build in sections to fit
my garage and no way would the Pilgram be up for that, where as
the Wyo is perfectly suited.
For the money, the Pilgram is a nice boat. BTW, I contacted
Saab on the 10HP diesel he recommended and you can have it
shipped to most anywhere in the USA for a total of $6100 US.
including the variable pitch propeller system and transmission.
Price when I was looking two years ago was $575.00. Obviously
it's getting popular.
Jeff
>Bruce,
> --- In bolger@y..., Michial Thompson <michialt@u...> wrote:
> > Has anyone used polyester glues, or Carpenters Glue like Tite
> > Bond for building?
>
> I have used both, and personally prefer polyester.
I think you must mean polyurethane. Polyester resin is not much of a glue.
I like it a lot myself, though it had a learning curve. PL makes a thin liquid. Perhaps
more readily available is Elmer's ProBond Polyurethane.
Many here in the past have been happy with Titebond II, but I've never used it. My
favorite, "Good enuf" that's cheap and foolproof too is the powdered plastic resin glue.
Mark
The PL Premium and PL Concrete adhesives are very popular.
> I am getting ready to put a June Bug together, and was looking at glue.01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>
> I have a few questions:
>
> Has anyone used any of the polyester glues, or Carpenters Glue like Tite
> Bond for building?
>
> I am looking as cheap as possibe, and expecting to get what I pay for. I
> am looking at the June Bug, and building for a single season of learning
> the basics of sailing in Texas on local lakes.
>
> I realize calling the June Bug a disposable learning tool is probably an
> insult to Mr. Bulger's design. My expectations is to have the June Bug
> built on 2-3 weekends, and then painted on the 4th, and sailing on the 5th
> weekend.
>
> ----------
>
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.377 / Virus Database: 211 - Release Date: 7/15/2002
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
My first thought was Liquid Nail because I have used it before inside, and
it doesn't give up, but it said on it's label not for outdoors.
I didn't recognize any of the other glues by brand, but they were for
outdoor, any particular brands work better than others (especially for join
filling)?
I use Tite Bond on model planes, and as long as you have good joints it
works well, but it weekend quickly if its not a tight fit.
At 02:02 AM 8/4/2002 +0000, you wrote:
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.377 / Virus Database: 211 - Release Date: 7/15/2002
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
it doesn't give up, but it said on it's label not for outdoors.
I didn't recognize any of the other glues by brand, but they were for
outdoor, any particular brands work better than others (especially for join
filling)?
I use Tite Bond on model planes, and as long as you have good joints it
works well, but it weekend quickly if its not a tight fit.
At 02:02 AM 8/4/2002 +0000, you wrote:
>--- In bolger@y..., Michial Thompson <michialt@u...> wrote:----------
> > Has anyone used polyester glues, or Carpenters Glue like Tite
> > Bond for building?
>
>I have used both, and personally prefer polyester.
>
> > I realize calling the June Bug a disposable learning tool
> > is probably an insult to Mr. Bulger's design.
>
>I think Mr. Bulger <g> would think that "Instant Boats" actually are
>best suited for quick and dirty construction. If you are going
>to "gold plate" a boat, build something more old style classic.
>
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
>01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>---
>Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
>Version: 6.0.377 / Virus Database: 211 - Release Date: 7/15/2002
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.377 / Virus Database: 211 - Release Date: 7/15/2002
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
A year after building a Nymph, Diablo, Skimmer and Pirogue of cheap
1/4" mahogany underlay (outer mahogany layers as thin as frogs hair
with a thick mystery meat centre ply) I wish I'd used better ply. I
opted for cheap because I wasn't sure anything I could build would
even float, let alone be a decent, well behaved craft. Outer layers
are delaiminating and will require massive epoxy injections to keep
the fleet afloat. The Gorilla glue that bubbled out around the butt
blocks leaves me afraid to go very far from the dock.
Build her cheap if you must, but only for $$$ resons, she'll turn out
fine and you'll get lots of compliments and more dockside
conversations than any store bought boat will ever start.
When the craft you're so rightly proud of begins to fall apart far to
soon you may end up pouring far more bucks in to save her than better
materials would have cost in the first place.
1/4" mahogany underlay (outer mahogany layers as thin as frogs hair
with a thick mystery meat centre ply) I wish I'd used better ply. I
opted for cheap because I wasn't sure anything I could build would
even float, let alone be a decent, well behaved craft. Outer layers
are delaiminating and will require massive epoxy injections to keep
the fleet afloat. The Gorilla glue that bubbled out around the butt
blocks leaves me afraid to go very far from the dock.
Build her cheap if you must, but only for $$$ resons, she'll turn out
fine and you'll get lots of compliments and more dockside
conversations than any store bought boat will ever start.
When the craft you're so rightly proud of begins to fall apart far to
soon you may end up pouring far more bucks in to save her than better
materials would have cost in the first place.
--- In bolger@y..., Michial Thompson <michialt@u...> wrote:
best suited for quick and dirty construction. If you are going
to "gold plate" a boat, build something more old style classic.
> Has anyone used polyester glues, or Carpenters Glue like TiteI have used both, and personally prefer polyester.
> Bond for building?
> I realize calling the June Bug a disposable learning toolI think Mr. Bulger <g> would think that "Instant Boats" actually are
> is probably an insult to Mr. Bulger's design.
best suited for quick and dirty construction. If you are going
to "gold plate" a boat, build something more old style classic.
I am getting ready to put a June Bug together, and was looking at glue.
I have a few questions:
Has anyone used any of the polyester glues, or Carpenters Glue like Tite
Bond for building?
I am looking as cheap as possibe, and expecting to get what I pay for. I
am looking at the June Bug, and building for a single season of learning
the basics of sailing in Texas on local lakes.
I realize calling the June Bug a disposable learning tool is probably an
insult to Mr. Bulger's design. My expectations is to have the June Bug
built on 2-3 weekends, and then painted on the 4th, and sailing on the 5th
weekend.
----------
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.377 / Virus Database: 211 - Release Date: 7/15/2002
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I have a few questions:
Has anyone used any of the polyester glues, or Carpenters Glue like Tite
Bond for building?
I am looking as cheap as possibe, and expecting to get what I pay for. I
am looking at the June Bug, and building for a single season of learning
the basics of sailing in Texas on local lakes.
I realize calling the June Bug a disposable learning tool is probably an
insult to Mr. Bulger's design. My expectations is to have the June Bug
built on 2-3 weekends, and then painted on the 4th, and sailing on the 5th
weekend.
----------
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.377 / Virus Database: 211 - Release Date: 7/15/2002
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
First I'd like to thank Mat for providing the link to the backyard
group and all the replies to my query about the pilgrim, I have
received a lot of great information.
As for the other designs by Parker and Stambaugh they seem to be
more expensive, even though they have better qualities than the
Pilgrim. I think the construction discount may be a large
consideration in the design of the Pilgrim. I hate to make this
analogy but Pilgrim seems to be a "Peoples Boat" open to the masses.
Like its original road counter part(Volks Wagon), it leaves things to
be desired but provides dependable service.
Even with the fact that it has the accommodations of a thirty footer
it is less expensive than most of them to build. It also maintains
the long waterline that helps with lowering the cost of propulsion.
Jeff also mentions that Mr. Buehler considered 1,000 lbs of ballast
to help Pilgrims ocean handling characteristics. I would like to know
why nobody has mentioned the use of railroad track as ballast? It is
designed to inhibit oxidation and has a considerable weight per foot.
Bolted to the foot of a wood keel 1,000 pounds of regular PS track is
only 18' long. It is 13lbs per inch. There are literally millions of
pounds of abandoned track sections in the US. With the use of heat
many fabrication shops can easily bend the track into any shape
needed.
Jeff, what is included with the study plans? Some packets I have
sent for from other designers have left me feeling robbed by the lack
of content, I have never ordered study plans from Bolger or Buehler
to date.
John
group and all the replies to my query about the pilgrim, I have
received a lot of great information.
As for the other designs by Parker and Stambaugh they seem to be
more expensive, even though they have better qualities than the
Pilgrim. I think the construction discount may be a large
consideration in the design of the Pilgrim. I hate to make this
analogy but Pilgrim seems to be a "Peoples Boat" open to the masses.
Like its original road counter part(Volks Wagon), it leaves things to
be desired but provides dependable service.
Even with the fact that it has the accommodations of a thirty footer
it is less expensive than most of them to build. It also maintains
the long waterline that helps with lowering the cost of propulsion.
Jeff also mentions that Mr. Buehler considered 1,000 lbs of ballast
to help Pilgrims ocean handling characteristics. I would like to know
why nobody has mentioned the use of railroad track as ballast? It is
designed to inhibit oxidation and has a considerable weight per foot.
Bolted to the foot of a wood keel 1,000 pounds of regular PS track is
only 18' long. It is 13lbs per inch. There are literally millions of
pounds of abandoned track sections in the US. With the use of heat
many fabrication shops can easily bend the track into any shape
needed.
Jeff, what is included with the study plans? Some packets I have
sent for from other designers have left me feeling robbed by the lack
of content, I have never ordered study plans from Bolger or Buehler
to date.
John
--- In bolger@y..., <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
>
> I have the study plans for the Pilgrim and did a lot of
> conversing the designer. I like the boat a lot! I has limited
> room inside, more like a 30' footer according the Buehler. It
> should be easy to build too. I didn't like the 3' foot draft
> on the orginal. I would have built the open cockpit version as
> it would have been much safer in bad weather. Mr. Buehler is
> not excited about the pilot house. He also mentioned that 1000
> lbs could be bolted to her keel to help her bad weather
> handling though he claims she could keep a sea in all most any
> weather without a problem. Her light loading would make her
> move around a lot and sea sickness would be an issue but no
> more than any other power boats built today that claim to be
> sea worthy.
>
> Jeff
> A George Buehler dory design called Pilgrim I came acrossI have the study plans for the Pilgram and did a lot of
> looks
> interesting. It is reported to be a perfect first time
> builders
> project. I have built drift boats and I would like to build
> a
> Gloucester Gull, this design just looks like a big dory.
conversing the designer. I like the boat a lot! I has limited
room inside, more like a 30' footer according the Buehler. It
should be easy to build too. I didn't like the 3' foot draft
on the orginal. I would have built the open cockpit version as
it would have been much safer in bad weather. Mr. Buehler is
not excited about the pilot house. He also mentioned that 1000
lbs could be bolted to her keel to help her bad weather
handling though he claims she could keep a sea in all most any
weather without a problem. Her light loading would make her
move around a lot and sea sickness would be an issue but no
more than any other power boats built today that claim to be
sea worthy.
Jeff
Hi Mat
I like the Parker design too, but the other half of the crew hasn't
warmed to it. Lots of room, simple construction and reasonable looks.
You mike also look at Karl Stambaugh's Redwing 40 Long Range, which is a
very polished plywood boat indeed....
http://www.cmdboats.com/redwing40lr.htm
David
-----Original Message-----
From: mat_man22 [mailto:mat_man@...]
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2002 2:22 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Interesting inexpensive 44' dory cruiser.
Hi David
Thanks
(Reuel) PARKER MARINE 50' Power Dory
http://www.parker-marine.com/50dorypage.htm
Plans at $550 would seem to be a bargain.
Mat
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-336>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I like the Parker design too, but the other half of the crew hasn't
warmed to it. Lots of room, simple construction and reasonable looks.
You mike also look at Karl Stambaugh's Redwing 40 Long Range, which is a
very polished plywood boat indeed....
http://www.cmdboats.com/redwing40lr.htm
David
-----Original Message-----
From: mat_man22 [mailto:mat_man@...]
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2002 2:22 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Interesting inexpensive 44' dory cruiser.
Hi David
Thanks
(Reuel) PARKER MARINE 50' Power Dory
http://www.parker-marine.com/50dorypage.htm
Plans at $550 would seem to be a bargain.
Mat
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=228862.2128520.3581629.1829184/D=egroupweb/S=1705
065791:HM/A=1182690/R=0/*http://adfarm.mediaplex.com/ad/ck/990-1736-1039
-336>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi David
Thanks
(Reuel) PARKER MARINE 50' Power Dory
http://www.parker-marine.com/50dorypage.htm
Plans at $550 would seem to be a bargain.
Mat
Thanks
(Reuel) PARKER MARINE 50' Power Dory
http://www.parker-marine.com/50dorypage.htm
Plans at $550 would seem to be a bargain.
Mat
No offsets in "The Troller Yacht" for Pilgrim, just a short write-up and
some general arrangement views. If he's getting a reasonable price for
the plans, why give them away?
David Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: mat_man22 [mailto:mat_man@...]
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2002 1:44 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Interesting inexpensive 44' dory cruiser.
Hi
I do not think a Pilgrim has been completed but several have been
started per yahoo group:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/backyard-boatbuilding/
Buehler gives about 10 plans with offsets in "Buehler's Backyard
Boatbuilding".
I have see a post that states he might do the same for Pilgrim in
"The TROLLER YACHT Book". Is this true?
Mat
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
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065791:HM/A=1182686/R=0/*http://adfarm.mediaplex.com/ad/ck/990-1736-1039
-333>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
some general arrangement views. If he's getting a reasonable price for
the plans, why give them away?
David Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: mat_man22 [mailto:mat_man@...]
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2002 1:44 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Interesting inexpensive 44' dory cruiser.
Hi
I do not think a Pilgrim has been completed but several have been
started per yahoo group:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/backyard-boatbuilding/
Buehler gives about 10 plans with offsets in "Buehler's Backyard
Boatbuilding".
I have see a post that states he might do the same for Pilgrim in
"The TROLLER YACHT Book". Is this true?
Mat
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
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065791:HM/A=1182686/R=0/*http://adfarm.mediaplex.com/ad/ck/990-1736-1039
-333>
Bolger rules!!!
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- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi
I do not think a Pilgrim has been completed but several have been
started per yahoo group:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/backyard-boatbuilding/
Buehler gives about 10 plans with offsets in "Buehler's Backyard
Boatbuilding".
I have see a post that states he might do the same for Pilgrim in
"The TROLLER YACHT Book". Is this true?
Mat
I do not think a Pilgrim has been completed but several have been
started per yahoo group:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/backyard-boatbuilding/
Buehler gives about 10 plans with offsets in "Buehler's Backyard
Boatbuilding".
I have see a post that states he might do the same for Pilgrim in
"The TROLLER YACHT Book". Is this true?
Mat
The Pilgrim design has gone through several interesting evolutions,
starting out as almost a runabout open cruiser type. I favor the latest
version, with a salty-looking pilothouse that seems to really fit the
hull. The length is somewhat deceptive, as much of it is a hold aft of
the engine space. We have the study plans, and my wife has spent many
hours playing with slight adjustments to the accommodations and the aft
deck (although it's hard to make sensible major changes; everything
seems to negatively affect the overall design).
If we can ever work out an interior we both agree on (we're liveaboards
on a 42' cutter), we'd likely build one. Oh to find a Sabb diesel in a
rummage sale....
The plans aren't exorbitantly priced. This isn't a skiff, and George is
a working designer. If you check PB&F's pricing on larger and more
elaborate vessels, you'll find that they are in the same ballpark (I
think SA has explained inflation and cost-of-living to The Master).
Anyway, the Pilgrim design appears to benefit from some continuing work
by Buehler. My USD $.02, anyway.
David Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: announcer97624 [mailto:announcer97624@...]
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2002 4:21 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Interesting inexpensive 44' dory cruiser.
A George Buehler dory design called Pilgrim I came across looks
interesting. It is reported to be a perfect first time builders
project. I have built drift boats and I would like to build a
Gloucester Gull, this design just looks like a big dory.
The designer claims it is inexpensive to build and requires very
little power for cruising propulsion. It is not a Bolger but seems to
incorporate the simple concept of utilitarian budget cruising without
being unsafe. I personally like the stability of dory-driftboat style
boats and I have used my driftboat in very rough white water.
I hope some of the more knowledgable builders give their opinions of
this design. I don't know of any drawbacks to this design and I am
seriously looking at it as a future project.
http://www.georgebuehler.com/Pilgrim.html
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<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=228862.2128520.3581629.1829184/D=egroupweb/S=1705
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-334>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
starting out as almost a runabout open cruiser type. I favor the latest
version, with a salty-looking pilothouse that seems to really fit the
hull. The length is somewhat deceptive, as much of it is a hold aft of
the engine space. We have the study plans, and my wife has spent many
hours playing with slight adjustments to the accommodations and the aft
deck (although it's hard to make sensible major changes; everything
seems to negatively affect the overall design).
If we can ever work out an interior we both agree on (we're liveaboards
on a 42' cutter), we'd likely build one. Oh to find a Sabb diesel in a
rummage sale....
The plans aren't exorbitantly priced. This isn't a skiff, and George is
a working designer. If you check PB&F's pricing on larger and more
elaborate vessels, you'll find that they are in the same ballpark (I
think SA has explained inflation and cost-of-living to The Master).
Anyway, the Pilgrim design appears to benefit from some continuing work
by Buehler. My USD $.02, anyway.
David Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: announcer97624 [mailto:announcer97624@...]
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2002 4:21 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Interesting inexpensive 44' dory cruiser.
A George Buehler dory design called Pilgrim I came across looks
interesting. It is reported to be a perfect first time builders
project. I have built drift boats and I would like to build a
Gloucester Gull, this design just looks like a big dory.
The designer claims it is inexpensive to build and requires very
little power for cruising propulsion. It is not a Bolger but seems to
incorporate the simple concept of utilitarian budget cruising without
being unsafe. I personally like the stability of dory-driftboat style
boats and I have used my driftboat in very rough white water.
I hope some of the more knowledgable builders give their opinions of
this design. I don't know of any drawbacks to this design and I am
seriously looking at it as a future project.
http://www.georgebuehler.com/Pilgrim.html
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=228862.2128520.3581629.1829184/D=egroupweb/S=1705
065791:HM/A=1182729/R=0/*http://adfarm.mediaplex.com/ad/ck/990-1736-1039
-334>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I agree, she's a good looking boat, problem is, she has the
accommodation of a 25 footer.
Prices are in line with many other 40'+ boats if not a bit cheaper.
accommodation of a 25 footer.
Prices are in line with many other 40'+ boats if not a bit cheaper.
--- In bolger@y..., "brucehector" <bruce_hector@h...> wrote:
> Yup! But don't hold that against her, she's a good looking boat
> nonetheless.
Yup! But don't hold that against her, she's a good looking boat
nonetheless.
nonetheless.
Plans and Building Book are $975
Does that seem high to anyone else?
Roger S
Does that seem high to anyone else?
Roger S
> A George Buehler dory design called Pilgrim I came across looks01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> interesting. It is reported to be a perfect first time builders
> project. I have built drift boats and I would like to build a
> Gloucester Gull, this design just looks like a big dory.
>
> The designer claims it is inexpensive to build and requires very
> little power for cruising propulsion. It is not a Bolger but seems to
> incorporate the simple concept of utilitarian budget cruising without
> being unsafe. I personally like the stability of dory-driftboat style
> boats and I have used my driftboat in very rough white water.
>
> I hope some of the more knowledgable builders give their opinions of
> this design. I don't know of any drawbacks to this design and I am
> seriously looking at it as a future project.
>
>http://www.georgebuehler.com/Pilgrim.html
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
A George Buehler dory design called Pilgrim I came across looks
interesting. It is reported to be a perfect first time builders
project. I have built drift boats and I would like to build a
Gloucester Gull, this design just looks like a big dory.
The designer claims it is inexpensive to build and requires very
little power for cruising propulsion. It is not a Bolger but seems to
incorporate the simple concept of utilitarian budget cruising without
being unsafe. I personally like the stability of dory-driftboat style
boats and I have used my driftboat in very rough white water.
I hope some of the more knowledgable builders give their opinions of
this design. I don't know of any drawbacks to this design and I am
seriously looking at it as a future project.
http://www.georgebuehler.com/Pilgrim.html
interesting. It is reported to be a perfect first time builders
project. I have built drift boats and I would like to build a
Gloucester Gull, this design just looks like a big dory.
The designer claims it is inexpensive to build and requires very
little power for cruising propulsion. It is not a Bolger but seems to
incorporate the simple concept of utilitarian budget cruising without
being unsafe. I personally like the stability of dory-driftboat style
boats and I have used my driftboat in very rough white water.
I hope some of the more knowledgable builders give their opinions of
this design. I don't know of any drawbacks to this design and I am
seriously looking at it as a future project.
http://www.georgebuehler.com/Pilgrim.html