Re: trailer hitches - >40% brake rule
>With a light trailer and a tandem, one axle may have a problem of not
> IMHO, it depends on the weight of what your towing.
enough weight and wheel lock up. A single axle might work better with
all the weight on that axle for better traction.
Charles
IMHO, it depends on the weight of what your towing. I have a 38' 3
axle 5th wheel house trailer that only had two axles with brakes. I
then bought a damaged 26' 5th wheel that was nearly brand new that
had been pulled under a low structure. It was damaged to a point that
I bought it from the insurance company for a song and placed one of
it's brake axle's under my longer trailer so now it has three braking
axles and the other non braking axle I put under the damaged trailer.
The big trailer works 100% better with the extra brake axle and the
damaged trailer did the exact opposite by not breaking well at all
now. These both have electric brakes instead of surge brakes.
If you have a large boat say 4,000 or 5,000 lbs or up I think you
would be better off with all axles having brakes. I bought the second
trailer with the intentions of using all of its new appliances in a
big Bolger boat. After looking at West Marine and other Marine
catalogues I believe I have saved thousands of dollars in fitting out
costs.
The bottom line is test what you have and be sure that it will be
enough to be able hold you back on an extended 6% downhill and still
stop at the bottom. If your boat is over 7,000lbs then you need a
three axle trailer with all three braking. I like safety and brakes
on the road are your first line of defense.
John
axle 5th wheel house trailer that only had two axles with brakes. I
then bought a damaged 26' 5th wheel that was nearly brand new that
had been pulled under a low structure. It was damaged to a point that
I bought it from the insurance company for a song and placed one of
it's brake axle's under my longer trailer so now it has three braking
axles and the other non braking axle I put under the damaged trailer.
The big trailer works 100% better with the extra brake axle and the
damaged trailer did the exact opposite by not breaking well at all
now. These both have electric brakes instead of surge brakes.
If you have a large boat say 4,000 or 5,000 lbs or up I think you
would be better off with all axles having brakes. I bought the second
trailer with the intentions of using all of its new appliances in a
big Bolger boat. After looking at West Marine and other Marine
catalogues I believe I have saved thousands of dollars in fitting out
costs.
The bottom line is test what you have and be sure that it will be
enough to be able hold you back on an extended 6% downhill and still
stop at the bottom. If your boat is over 7,000lbs then you need a
three axle trailer with all three braking. I like safety and brakes
on the road are your first line of defense.
John
--- In bolger@y..., "chodges31711" <chodges@a...> wrote:
> Our family is
> > thinking of converting the 3 axle trailer to anti-lock disk surge
> > brakes. I keep the boat and maintain it, I also have the only
> > vehicle capable of towing the beast.
> >
>
>
> Are brakes on one axle of a tandem enough or do you need both axles
> with brakes?
>
> Charles
Our family is
with brakes?
Charles
> thinking of converting the 3 axle trailer to anti-lock disk surgeAre brakes on one axle of a tandem enough or do you need both axles
> brakes. I keep the boat and maintain it, I also have the only
> vehicle capable of towing the beast.
>
with brakes?
Charles
I'll weigh in on this. The US does have laws that relate to towing
weight and trailer brakes and Federal law only comes into play at
towed vehicles of 10,000 pounds and above unless the towed vehicle
has been weighed and the tires on it are of insufficient load
capacity.
Yes states vary from each other but the licensing states laws are
honored when persons travel with their boats unless it is an unsafe
condition. My state Oregon doesn't require the trailer to have a
license unless it is over 1,800 lbs GVW. When I take my small fishing
boat out of state it is perfectly legal since my pickup has Oregon
plates. I drive a Dodge diesel and I tow a very large Fiberglass
vintage cabin cruiser/ex-commercial fishing boat that my family
bought and paid for with the fish we took to market. Our family is
thinking of converting the 3 axle trailer to anti-lock disk surge
brakes. I keep the boat and maintain it, I also have the only
vehicle capable of towing the beast.
In my opinion(for what it is worth)I feel that small boats should
not have trailer brakes because they have a tendency to slide the
tires and create flat spots. I also don't think you should tow large
boats with small short wheel base vehicles. They are hard to control
in emergency situations, like the tail wagging the dog. The hitch
should be rated for over the weight of the boat and trailer. Always
check your tires for load rating. If you are involved in an accident
towing a large boat even if it is not your fault you can be charged
for the accident if your tire rating isn't sufficient. It affects the
handling and insurance companies jump at those opportunities.
The rule of thumb is if it looks dangerous the police will notice.
If you tow a 2,000lbs boat with a 1,500lbs GVW hitch your tempting
fate. Be safe on and off the water.
John
weight and trailer brakes and Federal law only comes into play at
towed vehicles of 10,000 pounds and above unless the towed vehicle
has been weighed and the tires on it are of insufficient load
capacity.
Yes states vary from each other but the licensing states laws are
honored when persons travel with their boats unless it is an unsafe
condition. My state Oregon doesn't require the trailer to have a
license unless it is over 1,800 lbs GVW. When I take my small fishing
boat out of state it is perfectly legal since my pickup has Oregon
plates. I drive a Dodge diesel and I tow a very large Fiberglass
vintage cabin cruiser/ex-commercial fishing boat that my family
bought and paid for with the fish we took to market. Our family is
thinking of converting the 3 axle trailer to anti-lock disk surge
brakes. I keep the boat and maintain it, I also have the only
vehicle capable of towing the beast.
In my opinion(for what it is worth)I feel that small boats should
not have trailer brakes because they have a tendency to slide the
tires and create flat spots. I also don't think you should tow large
boats with small short wheel base vehicles. They are hard to control
in emergency situations, like the tail wagging the dog. The hitch
should be rated for over the weight of the boat and trailer. Always
check your tires for load rating. If you are involved in an accident
towing a large boat even if it is not your fault you can be charged
for the accident if your tire rating isn't sufficient. It affects the
handling and insurance companies jump at those opportunities.
The rule of thumb is if it looks dangerous the police will notice.
If you tow a 2,000lbs boat with a 1,500lbs GVW hitch your tempting
fate. Be safe on and off the water.
John
--- In bolger@y..., Mark Albanese <marka@h...> wrote:
> There are at least fifty laws for that in these United States.
>
> A look at a couple of auto owner's manuals shows they expect you to
be able to about
> double the tow if you do have trailer brakes. Some say, on the
other hand, if you want the
> engine and transmission to last, you should only pull half total
what they specify.
>
> Mark
>
> proaconstrictor wrote:
>
> > John Marples mentioned to me that the US law (scoff scoff, if
anyone
> > knows Can. law please chime in) states that your trailer, if more
> > than 40% of tractor weight, has to have a brake system, with
> > attendant cost and maintenance. Having made a few scary panic
stops
> > in my Ranger before getting my F-150, I can see where this idea
came
> > from. But it cuts seriously into my previous considerations of
tow
> > weight.
> >
There are at least fifty laws for that in these United States.
A look at a couple of auto owner's manuals shows they expect you to be able to about
double the tow if you do have trailer brakes. Some say, on the other hand, if you want the
engine and transmission to last, you should only pull half total what they specify.
Mark
proaconstrictor wrote:
A look at a couple of auto owner's manuals shows they expect you to be able to about
double the tow if you do have trailer brakes. Some say, on the other hand, if you want the
engine and transmission to last, you should only pull half total what they specify.
Mark
proaconstrictor wrote:
> John Marples mentioned to me that the US law (scoff scoff, if anyone
> knows Can. law please chime in) states that your trailer, if more
> than 40% of tractor weight, has to have a brake system, with
> attendant cost and maintenance. Having made a few scary panic stops
> in my Ranger before getting my F-150, I can see where this idea came
> from. But it cuts seriously into my previous considerations of tow
> weight.
>
porky's right: there is no federal law, and the requirements vary
from state to state, which is ridiculous. The most common rule
is that brakes are required for a trailer with a gross loaded
weight of more than 3,000 pounds.
But consider the extremes. According to the web site for the
Boat U.S. "trailering club," North Dakota requires brakes on all
trailers, and a number of states (including California) require
brakes for trailers over 1,500 pounds. At the other end of the
spectrum, some states require them only for trailers over 4,000
or 4,500 pounds, in Washington DC it's 10,000 pounds, and a
couple of states don't require them at all. (All of this, by the
way, is entirely dependent of the tow vehicle weight.)
So if you trailer your boat cross country, whether or not you're
"legal" could change every couple of hours as you cross state
lines . . .
Steve
from state to state, which is ridiculous. The most common rule
is that brakes are required for a trailer with a gross loaded
weight of more than 3,000 pounds.
But consider the extremes. According to the web site for the
Boat U.S. "trailering club," North Dakota requires brakes on all
trailers, and a number of states (including California) require
brakes for trailers over 1,500 pounds. At the other end of the
spectrum, some states require them only for trailers over 4,000
or 4,500 pounds, in Washington DC it's 10,000 pounds, and a
couple of states don't require them at all. (All of this, by the
way, is entirely dependent of the tow vehicle weight.)
So if you trailer your boat cross country, whether or not you're
"legal" could change every couple of hours as you cross state
lines . . .
Steve
--- In bolger@y..., "porcupinefysh" <porcupine@d...> wrote:
> There is, as far as I know, no US Federal law governing trailer
brakes (except, perhaps, on fifth-wheel rigs), and state laws
differ. In New York any trailer designed to carry a load of greater
than 1000 lbs. is required to have brakes, regardless of the
weight of the tractor vehicle. Less than that and no brakes are
required. This is certainly not universal,
>
> porky
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "proaconstrictor" <proaconstrictor@y...>
wrote:
>
John Marples mentioned to me that the US law (scoff scoff, if
anyone knows Can. law please chime in) states that your trailer,
if more than 40% of tractor weight, has to have a brake system
There is, as far as I know, no US Federal law governing trailer
brakes (except, perhaps, on fifth-wheel rigs), and state laws differ.
In New York any trailer designed to carry a load of greater than 1000
lbs. is required to have brakes, regardless of the weight of the
tractor vehicle. Less than that and no brakes are required. This is
certainly not universal,
porky
brakes (except, perhaps, on fifth-wheel rigs), and state laws differ.
In New York any trailer designed to carry a load of greater than 1000
lbs. is required to have brakes, regardless of the weight of the
tractor vehicle. Less than that and no brakes are required. This is
certainly not universal,
porky
--- In bolger@y..., "proaconstrictor" <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
> John Marples mentioned to me that the US law (scoff scoff, if anyone
> knows Can. law please chime in) states that your trailer, if more
> than 40% of tractor weight, has to have a brake system, with
> attendant cost and maintenance. Having made a few scary panic stops
> in my Ranger before getting my F-150, I can see where this idea came
> from. But it cuts seriously into my previous considerations of tow
> weight.
>car,
> BTW, Saturns are nice little cars. I especially like them because
> deer usually bounce off the plastic body without damage (to the
> at least). This is not the case for a Corolla, as I discovered tomy
> (and my insurance company's) dismay last Autumn.including
>
> To get back on subject, I have hauled several Bolger boats,
> a nesting Tortoise and Shoe Box, using these hitches and a 8'x4'John Marples mentioned to me that the US law (scoff scoff, if anyone
> utility trailer. Towing a Micro with gear, cradle and trailer would
> be pushing such a small car's capacity, I think,
>
> porky
knows Can. law please chime in) states that your trailer, if more
than 40% of tractor weight, has to have a brake system, with
attendant cost and maintenance. Having made a few scary panic stops
in my Ranger before getting my F-150, I can see where this idea came
from. But it cuts seriously into my previous considerations of tow
weight.
The teardrop trailer post allows me to segue into an older subject,
trailer hitches for compact cars. J.C.Whitney
<http://www.jcwhitney.com/> carries Hidden Hitch brand hitches for
most vehicles, including Saturn. I have installed such a hitch on a
1995 Saturn SL (which is essentially the same as a '93) and on a 1999
Toyoa Corolla. Both cars have ~1000 lb. towing capacities. The cost
is $89.99 plus shipping, and you also have to buy a wiring kit for
about ten bucks. The Saturn kit requires that you drill four 1/2"
holes. The Toyota requires no drilling, but you have to disassemble
part of the butt end of the car (yikes!).
BTW, Saturns are nice little cars. I especially like them because
deer usually bounce off the plastic body without damage (to the car,
at least). This is not the case for a Corolla, as I discovered to my
(and my insurance company's) dismay last Autumn.
To get back on subject, I have hauled several Bolger boats, including
a nesting Tortoise and Shoe Box, using these hitches and a 8'x4'
utility trailer. Towing a Micro with gear, cradle and trailer would
be pushing such a small car's capacity, I think,
porky
trailer hitches for compact cars. J.C.Whitney
<http://www.jcwhitney.com/> carries Hidden Hitch brand hitches for
most vehicles, including Saturn. I have installed such a hitch on a
1995 Saturn SL (which is essentially the same as a '93) and on a 1999
Toyoa Corolla. Both cars have ~1000 lb. towing capacities. The cost
is $89.99 plus shipping, and you also have to buy a wiring kit for
about ten bucks. The Saturn kit requires that you drill four 1/2"
holes. The Toyota requires no drilling, but you have to disassemble
part of the butt end of the car (yikes!).
BTW, Saturns are nice little cars. I especially like them because
deer usually bounce off the plastic body without damage (to the car,
at least). This is not the case for a Corolla, as I discovered to my
(and my insurance company's) dismay last Autumn.
To get back on subject, I have hauled several Bolger boats, including
a nesting Tortoise and Shoe Box, using these hitches and a 8'x4'
utility trailer. Towing a Micro with gear, cradle and trailer would
be pushing such a small car's capacity, I think,
porky