RE: [bolger] Re: filling holes
Just asking again-
Has anyone got any experience with the "marshmallow fluff" type of filler
for drywall holes. It does not shrink and sands really easily. Will epoxy
adhere? I bet yes.
-----Original Message-----
From: rnlocnil [mailto:lincolnr@...]
Sent: Friday, August 23, 2002 1:39 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: filling holes
Has anyone got any experience with the "marshmallow fluff" type of filler
for drywall holes. It does not shrink and sands really easily. Will epoxy
adhere? I bet yes.
-----Original Message-----
From: rnlocnil [mailto:lincolnr@...]
Sent: Friday, August 23, 2002 1:39 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: filling holes
--- In bolger@y..., "proaconstrictor" <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
snip
> > I've noticed filler soaking into holes unless you make it real
> thick
>
> bingo!
>
If the choice is real thick filler that doesn't soak in, I think I
might as well use PL. Most of the holes are plugged by now anyway.
> snip
>
> If this is a stand way back boat I suggest not filling the holes at
> all for maximum excitment.
> snip
It's a stand way back boat, not a tread water and look down boat.
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- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
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Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
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Has anyone got any experience with the "marshmallow fluff" type of filler
for drywall holes. It does not shrink and sands really easily. Will epoxy
adhere? I bet yes.
-----Original Message-----
From: rnlocnil [mailto:lincolnr@...]
Sent: Friday, August 23, 2002 1:39 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: filling holes
for drywall holes. It does not shrink and sands really easily. Will epoxy
adhere? I bet yes.
-----Original Message-----
From: rnlocnil [mailto:lincolnr@...]
Sent: Friday, August 23, 2002 1:39 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: filling holes
--- In bolger@y..., "proaconstrictor" <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
snip
> > I've noticed filler soaking into holes unless you make it real
> thick
>
> bingo!
>
If the choice is real thick filler that doesn't soak in, I think I
might as well use PL. Most of the holes are plugged by now anyway.
> snip
>
> If this is a stand way back boat I suggest not filling the holes at
> all for maximum excitment.
> snip
It's a stand way back boat, not a tread water and look down boat.
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--- In bolger@y..., "proaconstrictor" <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
snip
> > I've noticed filler soaking into holes unless you make it real
> thick
>
> bingo!
>
If the choice is real thick filler that doesn't soak in, I think I
might as well use PL. Most of the holes are plugged by now anyway.
> snip
>
> If this is a stand way back boat I suggest not filling the holes at
> all for maximum excitment.
> snip
It's a stand way back boat, not a tread water and look down boat.
this,
one of which included nailing down the second layer of ply as is
required on many bolger boats.
bingo!
If this is a stand way back boat I suggest not filling the holes at
all for maximum excitment.
> I'll slap my forehead and say "that's how I should have done it" asI
> will be done by the time I can read your reply.I'm responding overall here to the new threads that are coming out,
one of which included nailing down the second layer of ply as is
required on many bolger boats.
> I've noticed filler soaking into holes unless you make it realthick
bingo!
> > If for some reason you enjoy the exercise of filling and levelinggive
> > holes - Are you kiding that plastic and wax paper are going to
> > you a workable surface, smooth isn't necesarily the criterion, ifI know
> all
> > you holes are smooth and you paint, it may show, because the ply
> > isn't glass smooth.
>
> Actually, those were other's suggestions,
If this is a stand way back boat I suggest not filling the holes at
all for maximum excitment.
> back" boat, not a circus mirror. I can certainly sand little tiny
> smooth spots, or even little tiny rough spots.
>
>
For something non-structural, you could consider acrylic
exterior/interior filler, the white stuff which comes in tubs for
weatherboards etc.
I first noticed this when my Micro was parked in my drive for 18
months. The epoxy filler in screwholes was shrinking and popping,
and the house filler right next to it on the house was as good as
the day it was trowelled on. Both were unpainted. (lazy me).
Acrylic is dirt cheap, so easy to apply, won't pop, epoxy bonds to
it, quick to dry, and is great to sand. I have used it in many non-
structural places on my Micro since with 100% success.
Ultimately, the final protection will be as good as the coating you
apply over the hull.
DonB
exterior/interior filler, the white stuff which comes in tubs for
weatherboards etc.
I first noticed this when my Micro was parked in my drive for 18
months. The epoxy filler in screwholes was shrinking and popping,
and the house filler right next to it on the house was as good as
the day it was trowelled on. Both were unpainted. (lazy me).
Acrylic is dirt cheap, so easy to apply, won't pop, epoxy bonds to
it, quick to dry, and is great to sand. I have used it in many non-
structural places on my Micro since with 100% success.
Ultimately, the final protection will be as good as the coating you
apply over the hull.
DonB
--- In bolger@y..., "rnlocnil" <lincolnr@r...> wrote:
> I am going to have about a gazillion screw holes on my latest
project.
> thinking about using PL Premium and a syringe with a big hole in
it.
> Ought to expand instead of soaking in the way epoxy does. Anyone
have
> better ideas?
see below
--- In bolger@y..., "proaconstrictor" <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
> So we have more issues:
>
> Why holes? - If you bagged that ply bottom you wouldn't have any,
but
> I realize you were saving time and money. ;0)
I'm not sure why I want to bag a single layer of ply for the bottom in
order to somehow attach it to the sides, but if you can explain this,
I'll slap my forehead and say "that's how I should have done it" as I
will be done by the time I can read your reply.
>
> Is this surface going to be glassed? - If the surface is going to be
> glassed, even if it is relatively mamoth, you just hit all the holes
> with compatible filler, unroll the glass, and put the clear over
> everything, comes out perfect.
I've noticed filler soaking into holes unless you make it real thick
or don't pre prime; the prime soaks into the holes and sucks down the
filler unless I wait a long time. If I'm going to prime I will need a
gravity source in center of boat so it sucks the epoxy INTO all the
holes or else I have to take 5X as long by turning up front, back,
side 1, side 2, bottom so the holes don't dribble. I could tape over
the holes but then the ones that were slanted backwards on the sides
would seal with voids in them. If no prime, worse waterproofing
performance than PL. Glass over holes at chine, not over other holes
for things like temporary forms.
>
> If for some reason you enjoy the exercise of filling and leveling
> holes - Are you kiding that plastic and wax paper are going to give
> you a workable surface, smooth isn't necesarily the criterion, if
all
> you holes are smooth and you paint, it may show, because the ply
> isn't glass smooth.
Actually, those were other's suggestions, but this is a "stand way
back" boat, not a circus mirror. I can certainly sand little tiny
smooth spots, or even little tiny rough spots.
> If you are glassing you want a little tooth
> Plastic usualy leaves behind creases, and wax paper leaves behind
> wax.
Plastic can be thick and uncreased if correct material.
>There is boind to be some material off the squeegee
> everywhere. I don't think you will get a perfectly level hole some
> will be high others will be low. The big timesaver is to ensure not
> a single hole is low, that way you get to move on! If you just hit
> the holes with a decent filler, you could sand them at the rate of
> about 1-2 minutes a 4x8 sheet, by hand.
Probably, see above comments tho.
So we have more issues:
Why holes? - If you bagged that ply bottom you wouldn't have any, but
I realize you were saving time and money. ;0)
Is this surface going to be glassed? - If the surface is going to be
glassed, even if it is relatively mamoth, you just hit all the holes
with compatible filler, unroll the glass, and put the clear over
everything, comes out perfect.
If for some reason you enjoy the exercise of filling and leveling
holes - Are you kiding that plastic and wax paper are going to give
you a workable surface, smooth isn't necesarily the criterion, if all
you holes are smooth and you paint, it may show, because the ply
isn't glass smooth. If you are glassing you want a little tooth
Plastic usualy leaves behind creases, and wax paper leaves behind
wax. There is boind to be some material off the squeegee
everywhere. I don't think you will get a perfectly level hole some
will be high others will be low. The big timesaver is to ensure not
a single hole is low, that way you get to move on! If you just hit
the holes with a decent filler, you could sand them at the rate of
about 1-2 minutes a 4x8 sheet, by hand.
Why holes? - If you bagged that ply bottom you wouldn't have any, but
I realize you were saving time and money. ;0)
Is this surface going to be glassed? - If the surface is going to be
glassed, even if it is relatively mamoth, you just hit all the holes
with compatible filler, unroll the glass, and put the clear over
everything, comes out perfect.
If for some reason you enjoy the exercise of filling and leveling
holes - Are you kiding that plastic and wax paper are going to give
you a workable surface, smooth isn't necesarily the criterion, if all
you holes are smooth and you paint, it may show, because the ply
isn't glass smooth. If you are glassing you want a little tooth
Plastic usualy leaves behind creases, and wax paper leaves behind
wax. There is boind to be some material off the squeegee
everywhere. I don't think you will get a perfectly level hole some
will be high others will be low. The big timesaver is to ensure not
a single hole is low, that way you get to move on! If you just hit
the holes with a decent filler, you could sand them at the rate of
about 1-2 minutes a 4x8 sheet, by hand.
Another topping that leads to a smooth finish is to press plastic
sheeting onto the drying epoxy. Works great. Dries smooth as the
plastic sheet was, I use fairly thick stuff (a couple of mils,
whatever they are). I don't know if it'll work with your PL premium
though, never tried it.
sheeting onto the drying epoxy. Works great. Dries smooth as the
plastic sheet was, I use fairly thick stuff (a couple of mils,
whatever they are). I don't know if it'll work with your PL premium
though, never tried it.
Why? Not laminating bottom. Doing stuff like chines to ply. Too
flimsy to nail. Self drilling SS screws not available, hence I must
remove the screws. If I had 50 clamps and the time to use them, maybe
not.
PL is plenty strong if you don't try to fill big spaces and let it
foam. The holes are small and don't need strength.
This is a quick boat and I don't want to use epoxy more than I have
to. Right now the building speed is limited by setting goo as much as
anything.
SOmeone else had a wax paper trick which sounded neat. Maybe also
masking tape.
flimsy to nail. Self drilling SS screws not available, hence I must
remove the screws. If I had 50 clamps and the time to use them, maybe
not.
PL is plenty strong if you don't try to fill big spaces and let it
foam. The holes are small and don't need strength.
This is a quick boat and I don't want to use epoxy more than I have
to. Right now the building speed is limited by setting goo as much as
anything.
SOmeone else had a wax paper trick which sounded neat. Maybe also
masking tape.
--- In bolger@y..., "jeff" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> Why have the holes? If your laminating a bottom hull maybe you can
use boat
> nails and leave them in hull. You can get a box of 3/4 inch or 7/8
inch
> ring shank nails for the same cost of the PL. If not, I would not
use PL
> myself. The foam has no strength, but if you going to glass over
the bottom
> my guess is that you would be fine. You could also just use any
wood putty
> for filler. It's easy to put on and sands well. It will seal with
epoxy on
> the top coat better too.
>
> Jeff
snip
One method I have had some success with is to use a filled epoxy, or
even bondo, but press a small piece of waxed paper over the filled
hole. It sets mirror smooth and flat and you don't even have to sand
afterwards. If you were doing a lot of holes, and they were in rows,
I suppose you could use a strip of waxed paper over a whole row of
holes.
Good luck,
Daniel Pike,
Tromso, Norway.
even bondo, but press a small piece of waxed paper over the filled
hole. It sets mirror smooth and flat and you don't even have to sand
afterwards. If you were doing a lot of holes, and they were in rows,
I suppose you could use a strip of waxed paper over a whole row of
holes.
Good luck,
Daniel Pike,
Tromso, Norway.
--- In bolger@y..., "rnlocnil" <lincolnr@r...> wrote:
> I am going to have about a gazillion screw holes on my latest
project.
> thinking about using PL Premium and a syringe with a big hole in
it.
> Ought to expand instead of soaking in the way epoxy does. Anyone
have
> better ideas?
Why have the holes? If your laminating a bottom hull maybe you can use boat
nails and leave them in hull. You can get a box of 3/4 inch or 7/8 inch
ring shank nails for the same cost of the PL. If not, I would not use PL
myself. The foam has no strength, but if you going to glass over the bottom
my guess is that you would be fine. You could also just use any wood putty
for filler. It's easy to put on and sands well. It will seal with epoxy on
the top coat better too.
Jeff
nails and leave them in hull. You can get a box of 3/4 inch or 7/8 inch
ring shank nails for the same cost of the PL. If not, I would not use PL
myself. The foam has no strength, but if you going to glass over the bottom
my guess is that you would be fine. You could also just use any wood putty
for filler. It's easy to put on and sands well. It will seal with epoxy on
the top coat better too.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "rnlocnil" <lincolnr@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2002 7:27 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: filling holes
> I find this quite tedious, which is why I'm going to try PL, unless we
> come up with something better. It doesn't have to be absolutely
> waterproof, just more waterproof than wood.
> --- In bolger@y..., "brucehector" <bruce_hector@h...> wrote:
> > I filled a gazzilion holes on my Micro's doubled 3/8 (finished @
> > 3/4") bottom too, I've used epoxy and fine bandsaw sawdust thickened
> > to a ketchup like consistency. Went on easy with a flexible plastic
> > bodyfill spreader. I use this mix everyewhere, filling all screw
> > holes after they are removed.
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
I find this quite tedious, which is why I'm going to try PL, unless we
come up with something better. It doesn't have to be absolutely
waterproof, just more waterproof than wood.
come up with something better. It doesn't have to be absolutely
waterproof, just more waterproof than wood.
--- In bolger@y..., "brucehector" <bruce_hector@h...> wrote:
> I filled a gazzilion holes on my Micro's doubled 3/8 (finished @
> 3/4") bottom too, I've used epoxy and fine bandsaw sawdust thickened
> to a ketchup like consistency. Went on easy with a flexible plastic
> bodyfill spreader. I use this mix everyewhere, filling all screw
> holes after they are removed.
If you are going to glass over the holes use something like Interlux
surfacing putty. It is as durable as the wood, sands easily and if
glassed and epoxied is protected. I have used most of the suggestions
and this is the easiest and when you sand it down you don't get high
or low spots as you do with epoxy with silica for example.
Bob Chamberland
surfacing putty. It is as durable as the wood, sands easily and if
glassed and epoxied is protected. I have used most of the suggestions
and this is the easiest and when you sand it down you don't get high
or low spots as you do with epoxy with silica for example.
Bob Chamberland
--- In bolger@y..., "rnlocnil" <lincolnr@r...> wrote:
> I am going to have about a gazillion screw holes on my latest project.
> thinking about using PL Premium and a syringe with a big hole in it.
> Ought to expand instead of soaking in the way epoxy does. Anyone have
> better ideas?
I filled a gazzilion holes on my Micro's doubled 3/8 (finished @
3/4") bottom too, I've used epoxy and fine bandsaw sawdust thickened
to a ketchup like consistency. Went on easy with a flexible plastic
bodyfill spreader. I use this mix everyewhere, filling all screw
holes after they are removed.
3/4") bottom too, I've used epoxy and fine bandsaw sawdust thickened
to a ketchup like consistency. Went on easy with a flexible plastic
bodyfill spreader. I use this mix everyewhere, filling all screw
holes after they are removed.
--- In bolger@y..., "rnlocnil" <lincolnr@r...> wrote:
the hole doesn't guanrantee healthy endgrain. You can control soak
in by using more cabosil, and pre dabing with clear. You can mound
the epoxy a little, sanding such small areas is a piece of cake, and
once you are level that should be it.
When PL expands it develops a foamy texture that is neither strong
nor smooth when sanded back to the surface.
> I am going to have about a gazillion screw holes on my latestproject.
> thinking about using PL Premium and a syringe with a big hole init.
> Ought to expand instead of soaking in the way epoxy does. Anyonehave
> better ideas?Epoxy's ability to soak in is what seals endgrain. having bungs in
the hole doesn't guanrantee healthy endgrain. You can control soak
in by using more cabosil, and pre dabing with clear. You can mound
the epoxy a little, sanding such small areas is a piece of cake, and
once you are level that should be it.
When PL expands it develops a foamy texture that is neither strong
nor smooth when sanded back to the surface.
I am going to have about a gazillion screw holes on my latest project.
thinking about using PL Premium and a syringe with a big hole in it.
Ought to expand instead of soaking in the way epoxy does. Anyone have
better ideas?
thinking about using PL Premium and a syringe with a big hole in it.
Ought to expand instead of soaking in the way epoxy does. Anyone have
better ideas?