[bolger] Re: Brick Pos. Floatation / Mast Location
It has also occurred to me when sailing my Brick "Tetard" that some
flotation would be nice for self-rescuing. That said, I am a lousy
sailor and my wife had never been sailing before, but the boat is so
wide that even on our VERY WINDY maiden voyaage, when we broke the
original rudder in an unintentional jibe, we never came close to
capsizing.
The great thing about a Brick is all that lounging space, as well as
it's simplcity. Once you start making it more complicated, maybe you
ought to go to another boat like Surf which already has flotation
designed in.
Regards,
Matthew
short-@...wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=2286
flotation would be nice for self-rescuing. That said, I am a lousy
sailor and my wife had never been sailing before, but the boat is so
wide that even on our VERY WINDY maiden voyaage, when we broke the
original rudder in an unintentional jibe, we never came close to
capsizing.
The great thing about a Brick is all that lounging space, as well as
it's simplcity. Once you start making it more complicated, maybe you
ought to go to another boat like Surf which already has flotation
designed in.
Regards,
Matthew
short-@...wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=2286
> Thinking of building a brick that has 2 simple floatationcompartments,
> one at bow, one at stern.the
>
> How do I calculate the minimuim size of compartments?
>
> Also, was thinking of moving the mast to the centerline attached to
> forward flotation compartment. What effects would this have on thehead
> brick?
>
> Seems that if the mast is on starboard side, running a port tack close
> hauled would be tough because the sprit would be hitting you in the
> and preventing you from getting your weight on the starboard side.
>
> Thanks!
> David Routh
>
richard spelling <richar-@...> wrote:
snip
can die of hypothermia. I had a close call with this myself once. It
took a long time to stop shivering once I got ashore, on a sunny 80
degree day in the spring. Of course if I'd been a bit more conservative
and stayed in (20 or 25 knots, small boat), I'd have been fine anyway.
snip
> >If it doesn't float high enough to bail or at least sail in a chop, you
> People float. So do wooden boats. Why floatation?
> Anyway, figure 40 or so pounds of floatation for every cubic foot of
> floatation foam.
>
can die of hypothermia. I had a close call with this myself once. It
took a long time to stop shivering once I got ashore, on a sunny 80
degree day in the spring. Of course if I'd been a bit more conservative
and stayed in (20 or 25 knots, small boat), I'd have been fine anyway.
Thinking of building a brick that has 2 simple floatation compartments,
one at bow, one at stern.
How do I calculate the minimuim size of compartments?
Also, was thinking of moving the mast to the centerline attached to the
forward flotation compartment. What effects would this have on the
brick?
Seems that if the mast is on starboard side, running a port tack close
hauled would be tough because the sprit would be hitting you in the head
and preventing you from getting your weight on the starboard side.
Thanks!
David Routh
one at bow, one at stern.
How do I calculate the minimuim size of compartments?
Also, was thinking of moving the mast to the centerline attached to the
forward flotation compartment. What effects would this have on the
brick?
Seems that if the mast is on starboard side, running a port tack close
hauled would be tough because the sprit would be hitting you in the head
and preventing you from getting your weight on the starboard side.
Thanks!
David Routh
oops. 60lb, not 40
Richard Spelling wrote:
Richard
Spelling|richard@...|http://www.spellingbusiness.com
SBE Communications, Business Solutions for the next Millennium and
Beyond!
Boat building projects:http://www.spellingbusiness.com/boats/
Richard Spelling wrote:
>--
>Shorty@...wrote:
> >
> > Thinking of building a brick that has 2 simple floatation compartments,
> > one at bow, one at stern.
> >
> > How do I calculate the minimuim size of compartments?
> >
> People float. So do wooden boats. Why floatation?
> Anyway, figure 40 or so pounds of floatation for every cubic foot of
> floatation foam.
>
> I would used airtite chambers though, on a boat that small, the storage
> space would be handy.
>
> > Also, was thinking of moving the mast to the centerline attached to the
> > forward flotation compartment. What effects would this have on the
> > brick?
> >
> > Seems that if the mast is on starboard side, running a port tack close
> > hauled would be tough because the sprit would be hitting you in the head
> > and preventing you from getting your weight on the starboard side.
> >
> I ran my D4, short wide boat like the Brick, to windward all the time
> without moving from the centerline longitudinal twart.
>
> Also, you loose "coolness factor" if you put it in the centerline.
>
> --
> Richard
> Spelling|richard@...|http://www.spellingbusiness.com
> SBE Communications, Business Solutions for the next Millennium and
> Beyond!
> Boat building projects:http://www.spellingbusiness.com/boats/
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
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Richard
Spelling|richard@...|http://www.spellingbusiness.com
SBE Communications, Business Solutions for the next Millennium and
Beyond!
Boat building projects:http://www.spellingbusiness.com/boats/
Shorty@...wrote:
Anyway, figure 40 or so pounds of floatation for every cubic foot of
floatation foam.
I would used airtite chambers though, on a boat that small, the storage
space would be handy.
without moving from the centerline longitudinal twart.
Also, you loose "coolness factor" if you put it in the centerline.
--
Richard
Spelling|richard@...|http://www.spellingbusiness.com
SBE Communications, Business Solutions for the next Millennium and
Beyond!
Boat building projects:http://www.spellingbusiness.com/boats/
>People float. So do wooden boats. Why floatation?
> Thinking of building a brick that has 2 simple floatation compartments,
> one at bow, one at stern.
>
> How do I calculate the minimuim size of compartments?
>
Anyway, figure 40 or so pounds of floatation for every cubic foot of
floatation foam.
I would used airtite chambers though, on a boat that small, the storage
space would be handy.
> Also, was thinking of moving the mast to the centerline attached to theI ran my D4, short wide boat like the Brick, to windward all the time
> forward flotation compartment. What effects would this have on the
> brick?
>
> Seems that if the mast is on starboard side, running a port tack close
> hauled would be tough because the sprit would be hitting you in the head
> and preventing you from getting your weight on the starboard side.
>
without moving from the centerline longitudinal twart.
Also, you loose "coolness factor" if you put it in the centerline.
--
Richard
Spelling|richard@...|http://www.spellingbusiness.com
SBE Communications, Business Solutions for the next Millennium and
Beyond!
Boat building projects:http://www.spellingbusiness.com/boats/
David,
At 10:11 AM 02/04/2000 -0700, you wrote:
per cubic foot. Foam will porvide 60 lbs flotation per cubic foot (62 - 2).
Plywood (yellow pine) is normally assigned a weight of 40 lbs per cubic
foot. If you add up all of the plywood weight and framing weight. What the
skipper, crew and other stuff in the boat weigh, that gives a rough weight
to support. It probably would be difficult to support EVERYTHING out of the
water. I would guess that a reasonable goal would be to have enuff
flatoation to keep the gunwhales out of the eater so it could be bailed
with YOU in it... Hopefully this is a starting point to get you where you
need to go.
serves me) has a picture of a Brick with a centered mast. It would be
fairly easy to put flotation in that area.
At 10:11 AM 02/04/2000 -0700, you wrote:
>Thinking of building a brick that has 2 simple floatation compartments,Foam is usually given a weight of 2 lbs per cubic foot. Water weighs 62 lbs
>one at bow, one at stern.
>
>How do I calculate the minimuim size of compartments?
>
per cubic foot. Foam will porvide 60 lbs flotation per cubic foot (62 - 2).
Plywood (yellow pine) is normally assigned a weight of 40 lbs per cubic
foot. If you add up all of the plywood weight and framing weight. What the
skipper, crew and other stuff in the boat weigh, that gives a rough weight
to support. It probably would be difficult to support EVERYTHING out of the
water. I would guess that a reasonable goal would be to have enuff
flatoation to keep the gunwhales out of the eater so it could be bailed
with YOU in it... Hopefully this is a starting point to get you where you
need to go.
>Also, was thinking of moving the mast to the centerline attached to theI have a collection of old Common Sense Newsletter. One (if my memory
>forward flotation compartment. What effects would this have on the
>brick?
>
serves me) has a picture of a Brick with a centered mast. It would be
fairly easy to put flotation in that area.
>Seems that if the mast is on starboard side, running a port tack closeTim - the one near Houston
>hauled would be tough because the sprit would be hitting you in the head
>and preventing you from getting your weight on the starboard side.
>
>Thanks!
>David Routh