Re: preventing wood rot
I think it will, but only with the epoxy warmed up and soft. Acetone
may evaporate too quickly with the added heat, so try laquer thinner
first, and get the slow or medium stuff.
may evaporate too quickly with the added heat, so try laquer thinner
first, and get the slow or medium stuff.
--- In bolger@y..., wmrpage@a... wrote:
> In a message dated 8/28/02 12:24:52 AM Central Daylight Time,
> numbaoneman@b... writes:
>
>
> > use acetone or laquer thinner on any remaining soft stuff,
>
> Does acetone or laquer thinner dissolve cured epoxy? If so, I'm
ready to go!
> Is one better than the other?
>
> Ciao for Niao,
> Bill in MN
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Heated cured epoxy doesn't smear, or at least it hasn't for me. It just
gets soft and lets go. I use a heat gun and a putty knife to clean up
runs etc. after one of my usual sloppy jobs of epoxing.
HJ
wmrpage@...wrote:
gets soft and lets go. I use a heat gun and a putty knife to clean up
runs etc. after one of my usual sloppy jobs of epoxing.
HJ
wmrpage@...wrote:
>
> In a message dated 8/27/02 10:54:24 PM Central Daylight Time,
>richard@...writes:
>
> > Heat the sink in that area with a hair dryer, it's pop right off.
>
> Are you sure? Have you done this? I have a more-or-less industrial-strength B&
> D heat gun, but I'm afraid the stuff will just soften and smear. It's a
> relatively innocuous smudge that I can live with and a prospective buyer
> would be unlikely to notice, given the more obvious deficencies in the
> dwelling. I'd rather live with it than take a chance on making it worse. I'm
> hoping for a chemical rather than a mechanical solution.
>
> Ciao for Niao,
> Bill in MN
>
On Thursday, August 29, 2002, at 08:12 PM,wmrpage@...wrote:
with. After removing all I could using scrapers and other physical
method I used acetone to remove the remainder. Worked very well.
YIBB,
David
> In a message dated 8/28/02 12:24:52 AM Central Daylight Time,due to my own haste, I had a bunch of mismixed, half-cured epoxy to deal
>numbaoneman@...writes:
>
>
>> use acetone or laquer thinner on any remaining soft stuff,
>
> Does acetone or laquer thinner dissolve cured epoxy? If so, I'm ready
> to go!
> Is one better than the other?
with. After removing all I could using scrapers and other physical
method I used acetone to remove the remainder. Worked very well.
YIBB,
David
In a message dated 8/27/02 10:54:24 PM Central Daylight Time,
richard@...writes:
D heat gun, but I'm afraid the stuff will just soften and smear. It's a
relatively innocuous smudge that I can live with and a prospective buyer
would be unlikely to notice, given the more obvious deficencies in the
dwelling. I'd rather live with it than take a chance on making it worse. I'm
hoping for a chemical rather than a mechanical solution.
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
richard@...writes:
> Heat the sink in that area with a hair dryer, it's pop right off.Are you sure? Have you done this? I have a more-or-less industrial-strength B&
D heat gun, but I'm afraid the stuff will just soften and smear. It's a
relatively innocuous smudge that I can live with and a prospective buyer
would be unlikely to notice, given the more obvious deficencies in the
dwelling. I'd rather live with it than take a chance on making it worse. I'm
hoping for a chemical rather than a mechanical solution.
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
In a message dated 8/28/02 12:24:52 AM Central Daylight Time,
numbaoneman@...writes:
Is one better than the other?
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
numbaoneman@...writes:
> use acetone or laquer thinner on any remaining soft stuff,Does acetone or laquer thinner dissolve cured epoxy? If so, I'm ready to go!
Is one better than the other?
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Jeff,
The original use of salt blocks was to turn rainwater salty, so it would
not support rot. Those ships always had water in the bilge, they just
needed to make sure it was salt water. Salt dissolved and soaked into
your wood (or left in the cockpit) would attract moisture from the air
and keep the wood from ever getting truly dry, and might interfere with
epoxy coating.
Ford Walton
jeff wrote:
The original use of salt blocks was to turn rainwater salty, so it would
not support rot. Those ships always had water in the bilge, they just
needed to make sure it was salt water. Salt dissolved and soaked into
your wood (or left in the cockpit) would attract moisture from the air
and keep the wood from ever getting truly dry, and might interfere with
epoxy coating.
Ford Walton
jeff wrote:
>
> > I'm going to replace the clorine tablets with blocks of salt from the farm
> > supply place.
>
> So... what if I were to dissolve salt into water, maybe boil it to get
> maximum amount to be dissolved into the water and spray it on the wood under
> my cockpit area, let it dry so the salt crystals stay behind, then epoxy
> coat. Would that give an added level of protection providing nothing major
> happens?
>
> Just incase there is a tiny pinhole leak in the epoxy.
>
> Just as an added level, cheaper and easier than antifreeze.
>
> Jeff
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> Sure, don't get your boat wet.Recreational boats don't rot away during the 100 hrs/year they are in
use, but in the time they are not in use. A dry-sailed boat won't rot
if stored properly.
If you have a wet-sailed boat of conventional (non-epoxy)
construction, the bottom may be wet, but the rest should be dry.
There is a lot of repair done to skylights, stems, doghouses, decks,
etc. that is traceable to rainwater intrusion.
If you have an epoxy boat, then the wood should stay dry, period. If
wood is getting wet, then some degree of repair is warranted.
Please don't get misunderstand; I'm not a curmugeoney expert who
would NEVER have something like that happen to my own boat. Far from
it. I have a non-epoxy Elegant Punt in a damp spot next to my garage
covered with ivy. It may be riddled with carpenter ants, much less
rot. What I am is a curmugeoney dilletente who was thinking that the
thread was concentrating on steps 2-4 and neglecting step 1.
Peter
Sure, don't get your boat wet.
--- In bolger@y..., "pvanderwaart" <pvanderw@o...> wrote:
> In all seriousness, I think the best way to combat rot is to keep
the
> wood clean and dry. Is there a reason not to focus your efforts in
> that direction?
>
> Peter
None, but was thinking of the "Just In Case" senario.
Jeff
Jeff
> In all seriousness, I think the best way to combat rot is to keep the
> wood clean and dry. Is there a reason not to focus your efforts in
> that direction?
Yeah,
Finally a voice of reason.
Ventilation .....and fresh air ........ that's all you need.
Rick
pvanderwaart wrote:
Finally a voice of reason.
Ventilation .....and fresh air ........ that's all you need.
Rick
pvanderwaart wrote:
> In all seriousness, I think the best way to combat rot is to keep the
> wood clean and dry. Is there a reason not to focus your efforts in
> that direction?
>
> Peter
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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In all seriousness, I think the best way to combat rot is to keep the
wood clean and dry. Is there a reason not to focus your efforts in
that direction?
Peter
wood clean and dry. Is there a reason not to focus your efforts in
that direction?
Peter
The pool Chlorine that pool maintenance businesses use is 98% pure,
compared to household laundry bleach that in extra strength Clorox is
only 2%. Those little pool tablets are oxidizers, that means when
they are dropped into gasoline or diesel they will ignite it(not
common knowledge).
The problem with anti freeze is that it never dissipates and unlike
water that weighs in at about 8lbs per gallon antifreeze is 13lbs per
gallon. I don't think I want the extra weight in my boat. I am also
leery of glassing over antifreeze treated wood since the design the
stuff with lubricating properties to make your water pump last longer.
Their are expensive alternative wood preservatives that stop rot but
anything people use will be toxic. The least toxic of all
preservative you can use is linseed oil. The wood won't rot when
soaked in this great preservative but it needs re-applied every two
or three years. It is lighter than water.
John
compared to household laundry bleach that in extra strength Clorox is
only 2%. Those little pool tablets are oxidizers, that means when
they are dropped into gasoline or diesel they will ignite it(not
common knowledge).
The problem with anti freeze is that it never dissipates and unlike
water that weighs in at about 8lbs per gallon antifreeze is 13lbs per
gallon. I don't think I want the extra weight in my boat. I am also
leery of glassing over antifreeze treated wood since the design the
stuff with lubricating properties to make your water pump last longer.
Their are expensive alternative wood preservatives that stop rot but
anything people use will be toxic. The least toxic of all
preservative you can use is linseed oil. The wood won't rot when
soaked in this great preservative but it needs re-applied every two
or three years. It is lighter than water.
John
--- In bolger@y..., "David Romasco" <dromasco@g...> wrote:
> Maybe it's just me, but this seems like a bad way to go. Kindly
observe
> how well-preserved the plywood usually is in the back of an average
pool
> maintenance truck (if such exists near you). In my experience,
chlorine
> does a number on wood, although it doesn't exactly seem to rot...
>
> In the absence of really truly extra toxic chemicals (ahh, for the
good
> old days!), I like the antifreeze approach. Just can't gum on the
wood
> like I used to.
>
> David Romasco
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jeff [mailto:boatbuilding@g...]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2002 9:45 AM
> To: bolger@y...
> Subject: Re: [bolger] preventing wood rot
>
>
> >
> >
> > I don't have a clue as to what is in those toilet bowl pucks, but
a
> plumber
> > summoned by a landlord of mine many years ago to fix a
malfunctioning
> toilet
> > referred to them as "the plumber's friend" - the joke, according
to
> him,
> > being the propensity of the resulting solution in the tank to
corrode
> or
> > otherwise degrade components of the flushing mechanism.
>
> My assumption is that it's the chlorine in the toilet bowl puck.
It's
> highly corrosive to metal. You'd think it would kill wood rot fungus
> since a
> couple small cap fulls will stop the green scum forming in fresh
water
> tanks.
>
> Jeff
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>
> ADVERTISEMENT
>
>
<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=228862.2128520.3581629.2225242/D=egroupweb/S=17
05
> 065791:HM/A=1182700/R=0/*http://adfarm.mediaplex.com/ad/ck/990-1736-
1039
> -336>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip>
away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@y...
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I would think that the salt crystals would prevent the epoxy from bonding
with the wood.
I'm only going to put it under the floorboards in the non self draining
cockpit. Get rain in there unless the boat is under cover, and even a shop
vac leaves some behind.
Blocks instead of crystals because all the crystals would desolve then be
pumped out the first time.
with the wood.
I'm only going to put it under the floorboards in the non self draining
cockpit. Get rain in there unless the boat is under cover, and even a shop
vac leaves some behind.
Blocks instead of crystals because all the crystals would desolve then be
pumped out the first time.
----- Original Message -----
From: "jeff" <boatbuilding@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2002 9:53 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] preventing wood rot
> > I'm going to replace the clorine tablets with blocks of salt from the
farm
> > supply place.
>
> So... what if I were to dissolve salt into water, maybe boil it to get
> maximum amount to be dissolved into the water and spray it on the wood
under
> my cockpit area, let it dry so the salt crystals stay behind, then epoxy
> coat. Would that give an added level of protection providing nothing
major
> happens?
>
> Just incase there is a tiny pinhole leak in the epoxy.
>
> Just as an added level, cheaper and easier than antifreeze.
>
> Jeff
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
> I'm going to replace the clorine tablets with blocks of salt from the farmSo... what if I were to dissolve salt into water, maybe boil it to get
> supply place.
maximum amount to be dissolved into the water and spray it on the wood under
my cockpit area, let it dry so the salt crystals stay behind, then epoxy
coat. Would that give an added level of protection providing nothing major
happens?
Just incase there is a tiny pinhole leak in the epoxy.
Just as an added level, cheaper and easier than antifreeze.
Jeff
Ah HA!
Tryting to figure out where to get salt in nice blocks small enough to fit
under the floorboards.
Duh. Make them. Disolve road salt in water, put in a appropriately sized
pan, an let the water evaporate.
Tryting to figure out where to get salt in nice blocks small enough to fit
under the floorboards.
Duh. Make them. Disolve road salt in water, put in a appropriately sized
pan, an let the water evaporate.
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Romasco" <dromasco@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2002 9:23 AM
Subject: RE: [bolger] preventing wood rot
> Maybe it's just me, but this seems like a bad way to go. Kindly observe
> how well-preserved the plywood usually is in the back of an average pool
> maintenance truck (if such exists near you). In my experience, chlorine
> does a number on wood, although it doesn't exactly seem to rot...
>
> In the absence of really truly extra toxic chemicals (ahh, for the good
> old days!), I like the antifreeze approach. Just can't gum on the wood
> like I used to.
>
> David Romasco
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jeff [mailto:boatbuilding@...]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2002 9:45 AM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [bolger] preventing wood rot
>
>
> >
> >
> > I don't have a clue as to what is in those toilet bowl pucks, but a
> plumber
> > summoned by a landlord of mine many years ago to fix a malfunctioning
> toilet
> > referred to them as "the plumber's friend" - the joke, according to
> him,
> > being the propensity of the resulting solution in the tank to corrode
> or
> > otherwise degrade components of the flushing mechanism.
>
> My assumption is that it's the chlorine in the toilet bowl puck. It's
> highly corrosive to metal. You'd think it would kill wood rot fungus
> since a
> couple small cap fulls will stop the green scum forming in fresh water
> tanks.
>
> Jeff
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>
> ADVERTISEMENT
>
> <http://rd.yahoo.com/M=228862.2128520.3581629.2225242/D=egroupweb/S=1705
> 065791:HM/A=1182700/R=0/*http://adfarm.mediaplex.com/ad/ck/990-1736-1039
> -336>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
You may have a point, and that is exactly why I asked for comments.
I'm going to replace the clorine tablets with blocks of salt from the farm
supply place.
Thanks everybody!
I'm going to replace the clorine tablets with blocks of salt from the farm
supply place.
Thanks everybody!
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Romasco" <dromasco@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2002 9:23 AM
Subject: RE: [bolger] preventing wood rot
> Maybe it's just me, but this seems like a bad way to go. Kindly observe
> how well-preserved the plywood usually is in the back of an average pool
> maintenance truck (if such exists near you). In my experience, chlorine
> does a number on wood, although it doesn't exactly seem to rot...
>
> In the absence of really truly extra toxic chemicals (ahh, for the good
> old days!), I like the antifreeze approach. Just can't gum on the wood
> like I used to.
>
> David Romasco
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jeff [mailto:boatbuilding@...]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2002 9:45 AM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [bolger] preventing wood rot
>
>
> >
> >
> > I don't have a clue as to what is in those toilet bowl pucks, but a
> plumber
> > summoned by a landlord of mine many years ago to fix a malfunctioning
> toilet
> > referred to them as "the plumber's friend" - the joke, according to
> him,
> > being the propensity of the resulting solution in the tank to corrode
> or
> > otherwise degrade components of the flushing mechanism.
>
> My assumption is that it's the chlorine in the toilet bowl puck. It's
> highly corrosive to metal. You'd think it would kill wood rot fungus
> since a
> couple small cap fulls will stop the green scum forming in fresh water
> tanks.
>
> Jeff
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>
> ADVERTISEMENT
>
> <http://rd.yahoo.com/M=228862.2128520.3581629.2225242/D=egroupweb/S=1705
> 065791:HM/A=1182700/R=0/*http://adfarm.mediaplex.com/ad/ck/990-1736-1039
> -336>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Maybe it's just me, but this seems like a bad way to go. Kindly observe
how well-preserved the plywood usually is in the back of an average pool
maintenance truck (if such exists near you). In my experience, chlorine
does a number on wood, although it doesn't exactly seem to rot...
In the absence of really truly extra toxic chemicals (ahh, for the good
old days!), I like the antifreeze approach. Just can't gum on the wood
like I used to.
David Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: jeff [mailto:boatbuilding@...]
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2002 9:45 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] preventing wood rot
highly corrosive to metal. You'd think it would kill wood rot fungus
since a
couple small cap fulls will stop the green scum forming in fresh water
tanks.
Jeff
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=228862.2128520.3581629.2225242/D=egroupweb/S=1705
065791:HM/A=1182700/R=0/*http://adfarm.mediaplex.com/ad/ck/990-1736-1039
-336>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
how well-preserved the plywood usually is in the back of an average pool
maintenance truck (if such exists near you). In my experience, chlorine
does a number on wood, although it doesn't exactly seem to rot...
In the absence of really truly extra toxic chemicals (ahh, for the good
old days!), I like the antifreeze approach. Just can't gum on the wood
like I used to.
David Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: jeff [mailto:boatbuilding@...]
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2002 9:45 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] preventing wood rot
>plumber
>
> I don't have a clue as to what is in those toilet bowl pucks, but a
> summoned by a landlord of mine many years ago to fix a malfunctioningtoilet
> referred to them as "the plumber's friend" - the joke, according tohim,
> being the propensity of the resulting solution in the tank to corrodeor
> otherwise degrade components of the flushing mechanism.My assumption is that it's the chlorine in the toilet bowl puck. It's
highly corrosive to metal. You'd think it would kill wood rot fungus
since a
couple small cap fulls will stop the green scum forming in fresh water
tanks.
Jeff
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=228862.2128520.3581629.2225242/D=egroupweb/S=1705
065791:HM/A=1182700/R=0/*http://adfarm.mediaplex.com/ad/ck/990-1736-1039
-336>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Smells like a swimming pool when it gets wet.
----- Original Message -----
From: "jeff" <boatbuilding@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2002 8:44 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] preventing wood rot
> >
> >
> > I don't have a clue as to what is in those toilet bowl pucks, but a
> plumber
> > summoned by a landlord of mine many years ago to fix a malfunctioning
> toilet
> > referred to them as "the plumber's friend" - the joke, according to him,
> > being the propensity of the resulting solution in the tank to corrode or
> > otherwise degrade components of the flushing mechanism.
>
> My assumption is that it's the chlorine in the toilet bowl puck. It's
> highly corrosive to metal. You'd think it would kill wood rot fungus since
a
> couple small cap fulls will stop the green scum forming in fresh water
> tanks.
>
> Jeff
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>plumber
>
> I don't have a clue as to what is in those toilet bowl pucks, but a
> summoned by a landlord of mine many years ago to fix a malfunctioningtoilet
> referred to them as "the plumber's friend" - the joke, according to him,My assumption is that it's the chlorine in the toilet bowl puck. It's
> being the propensity of the resulting solution in the tank to corrode or
> otherwise degrade components of the flushing mechanism.
highly corrosive to metal. You'd think it would kill wood rot fungus since a
couple small cap fulls will stop the green scum forming in fresh water
tanks.
Jeff
Chisel?
Really though, if you warmed up the backside of the sink (under the
cabinet) to the point that the epoxy started to soften where it
contacted the metal, a good sharp putty knife should cut it off, then
use acetone or laquer thinner on any remaining soft stuff, with a
good brush. If you are unable to get to the backside of the spot,
warm in a circle around it, looking to cause the epoxy next to the
metal to soften first.
Steve.
Really though, if you warmed up the backside of the sink (under the
cabinet) to the point that the epoxy started to soften where it
contacted the metal, a good sharp putty knife should cut it off, then
use acetone or laquer thinner on any remaining soft stuff, with a
good brush. If you are unable to get to the backside of the spot,
warm in a circle around it, looking to cause the epoxy next to the
metal to soften first.
Steve.
> While I'm on the subject of Hints from Heloise - does anyone knowof a good
> way to remove a small (dime-sized) spot of cured epoxy from astainless steel
> sink? I laminated a transom on my kitchen counter this Spring and,despite
> reasonable precautions, have ended up with this dollop fiercelybonded to my
> sink. If anything, it is more resistant to abrasion than the sinkitself. I
> know that it will soften if heated, but I'm afraid that I mightjust end up
> with a bigger mess if I try that. Any suggestions?
>
> Ciao for Niao,
> Bill in MN
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Heat the sink in that area with a hair dryer, it's pop right off. You won't
make a bigger mess.
make a bigger mess.
----- Original Message -----
From: <wmrpage@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2002 10:34 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] preventing wood rot
| In a message dated 8/26/02 4:19:10 PM Central Daylight Time,
|richard@...writes:
|
|
| > toilet bowl pucks. On the theory that if they kill germs in the toilet,
they
| > will kill the bugs that promote rot.
| >
| > Comments?
| >
|
| I don't have a clue as to what is in those toilet bowl pucks, but a
plumber
| summoned by a landlord of mine many years ago to fix a malfunctioning
toilet
| referred to them as "the plumber's friend" - the joke, according to him,
| being the propensity of the resulting solution in the tank to corrode or
| otherwise degrade components of the flushing mechanism. I don't know if
there
| was any truth in it. Still, toilet cleaning chemicals are a pretty
chemically
| reactive group. I guess I would worry that they might be as aggressive at
| attacking cellulose and lignin as the fungi they might kill.
|
| On the household remedies front, a liberal sprinkling of moth balls in a
boat
| laid up for the winter seems to do a pretty good job of discouraging small
| rodents from taking up residence, dining on the wiring or upholstery, etc.
|
| While I'm on the subject of Hints from Heloise - does anyone know of a
good
| way to remove a small (dime-sized) spot of cured epoxy from a stainless
steel
| sink? I laminated a transom on my kitchen counter this Spring and, despite
| reasonable precautions, have ended up with this dollop fiercely bonded to
my
| sink. If anything, it is more resistant to abrasion than the sink itself.
I
| know that it will soften if heated, but I'm afraid that I might just end
up
| with a bigger mess if I try that. Any suggestions?
|
| Ciao for Niao,
| Bill in MN
|
|
| [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
|
|
| Bolger rules!!!
| - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
| - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
| - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
| - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
| - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
| - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
|
| Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
|
|
|
In a message dated 8/26/02 4:19:10 PM Central Daylight Time,
richard@...writes:
summoned by a landlord of mine many years ago to fix a malfunctioning toilet
referred to them as "the plumber's friend" - the joke, according to him,
being the propensity of the resulting solution in the tank to corrode or
otherwise degrade components of the flushing mechanism. I don't know if there
was any truth in it. Still, toilet cleaning chemicals are a pretty chemically
reactive group. I guess I would worry that they might be as aggressive at
attacking cellulose and lignin as the fungi they might kill.
On the household remedies front, a liberal sprinkling of moth balls in a boat
laid up for the winter seems to do a pretty good job of discouraging small
rodents from taking up residence, dining on the wiring or upholstery, etc.
While I'm on the subject of Hints from Heloise - does anyone know of a good
way to remove a small (dime-sized) spot of cured epoxy from a stainless steel
sink? I laminated a transom on my kitchen counter this Spring and, despite
reasonable precautions, have ended up with this dollop fiercely bonded to my
sink. If anything, it is more resistant to abrasion than the sink itself. I
know that it will soften if heated, but I'm afraid that I might just end up
with a bigger mess if I try that. Any suggestions?
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
richard@...writes:
> toilet bowl pucks. On the theory that if they kill germs in the toilet, theyI don't have a clue as to what is in those toilet bowl pucks, but a plumber
> will kill the bugs that promote rot.
>
> Comments?
>
summoned by a landlord of mine many years ago to fix a malfunctioning toilet
referred to them as "the plumber's friend" - the joke, according to him,
being the propensity of the resulting solution in the tank to corrode or
otherwise degrade components of the flushing mechanism. I don't know if there
was any truth in it. Still, toilet cleaning chemicals are a pretty chemically
reactive group. I guess I would worry that they might be as aggressive at
attacking cellulose and lignin as the fungi they might kill.
On the household remedies front, a liberal sprinkling of moth balls in a boat
laid up for the winter seems to do a pretty good job of discouraging small
rodents from taking up residence, dining on the wiring or upholstery, etc.
While I'm on the subject of Hints from Heloise - does anyone know of a good
way to remove a small (dime-sized) spot of cured epoxy from a stainless steel
sink? I laminated a transom on my kitchen counter this Spring and, despite
reasonable precautions, have ended up with this dollop fiercely bonded to my
sink. If anything, it is more resistant to abrasion than the sink itself. I
know that it will soften if heated, but I'm afraid that I might just end up
with a bigger mess if I try that. Any suggestions?
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Probably at a feed store, Agway, horse farm etc.
I probably shouldn't mention this because it's also poisonous, but
also check out the use of antifreeze as a rot preventative if you
didn't already know of this site:
http://home.att.net/~davecarnell/rot.html
I probably shouldn't mention this because it's also poisonous, but
also check out the use of antifreeze as a rot preventative if you
didn't already know of this site:
http://home.att.net/~davecarnell/rot.html
> Hey, now that's an idea! And, would smell better than the clorinebased pucks. Where would you get salt blocks?
so, clorine based toilet pucks won't kill rot fungus?
I would think they would.
I would think they would.
----- Original Message -----
From: "sctree" <sctree@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, August 26, 2002 7:48 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: preventing wood rot
| Wood is rotted or decayed by a growing fungus.
|
| The spores for wood decaying fungus are almost everywhere, even on a
| fresh cut piece of lumber in your shop, and certianly on any board
| that has been laying around. The fungus needs three things in order
| to live and grow which are a certian range of both moisture and
| temperature, and food. If you eliminate or significantly reduce any
| of the three, rot will not occur. The food is your wood boat, so you
| can't do anything about that. The temperatures that fungus love are
| the same that most of us do, so not much can be done there. It's
| moisture that can control fungus growth. Either too much water or too
| little will prevent wood decaying fungus from growing.
|
| Too much water in wood to support fungus growth has work well in plank
| on frame boats built with decay resistant species of wood and kept in
| the water. Boats with intermittent contact with water, built with less
| decay resistant woods need to go the other way, keep the wood dry.
|
| My problem with epoxy encapsulation is that if that barrier is
| broached, nothing more than a small ding or crack, and moisture is
| present, water will get into the wood and spread in the cell
| structure of the wood. Then the encapsulation barrier will prevent
| the moisture from escaping back into the atmosphere resulting in a
| perfect enviroment to support wood decaying fungus.
|
| The various poisons mentioned can kill or suppress fungus when it's
| actively growing and the poison gets to it. But what about the places
| the poison isn't, and what happens when the poison runs out or
| decomposes.
|
| On dry sailed, or trailered boats it's the wind or rain blown leaf
| particles and dust that get in your boat and contain high amounts of
| fungus spores that really accelerate decay if adaquate moisture is
| present.
|
| I'm an advocate of water permiable paint coatings (if any) on the
| interior of my boats, and LOTS of ventilation to allow any moisture
| absorbed by the wood to move out.
|
|
| Well, you asked for comments........
|
| Rick
|
|
|
| >http://www.yachtsurvey.com/preventing_rot_in_encapsulated_wood.htm
| > which recommends coating everything with epoxy, if you haven't
| > already.
| >
| >
| > > Comments?
|
|
|
| Bolger rules!!!
| - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
| - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
| - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
| - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
| - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
| - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
|
| Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
|
|
|
Hey, now that's an idea! And, would smell better than the clorine based
pucks. Where would you get salt blocks?
pucks. Where would you get salt blocks?
----- Original Message -----
From: "kayaker37" <kayaker37@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, August 26, 2002 7:07 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: preventing wood rot
|
| Aren't these somewhat poisonous to dogs, pets, children? How about
| salt blocks like they used to use in unencapsulated wooden boats, and
| still recommended by some sites, for example
|
|http://www.mastmate.com/questions.htm
|
| Also of interest is
|http://www.yachtsurvey.com/preventing_rot_in_encapsulated_wood.htm
| which recommends coating everything with epoxy, if you haven't
| already.
|
| > In the non-self draining cockpit of my Chebacco, I have placed
| several toilet bowl pucks. On the theory that if they kill germs in
| the toilet, they will kill the bugs that promote rot.
| >
| > Comments?
|
|
|
|
| Bolger rules!!!
| - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
| - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
| - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
| - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
| - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
| - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
|
| Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
|
|
|
> Borax is Boric acid and mixed with chlorine will put offOops, sorry Rich, wasn't trying to hurt ya! I'd just use Borax
> toxic fumes
> when mixed. Not a good idea.
on occassion swished around.
Jeff
Wood is rotted or decayed by a growing fungus.
The spores for wood decaying fungus are almost everywhere, even on a
fresh cut piece of lumber in your shop, and certianly on any board
that has been laying around. The fungus needs three things in order
to live and grow which are a certian range of both moisture and
temperature, and food. If you eliminate or significantly reduce any
of the three, rot will not occur. The food is your wood boat, so you
can't do anything about that. The temperatures that fungus love are
the same that most of us do, so not much can be done there. It's
moisture that can control fungus growth. Either too much water or too
little will prevent wood decaying fungus from growing.
Too much water in wood to support fungus growth has work well in plank
on frame boats built with decay resistant species of wood and kept in
the water. Boats with intermittent contact with water, built with less
decay resistant woods need to go the other way, keep the wood dry.
My problem with epoxy encapsulation is that if that barrier is
broached, nothing more than a small ding or crack, and moisture is
present, water will get into the wood and spread in the cell
structure of the wood. Then the encapsulation barrier will prevent
the moisture from escaping back into the atmosphere resulting in a
perfect enviroment to support wood decaying fungus.
The various poisons mentioned can kill or suppress fungus when it's
actively growing and the poison gets to it. But what about the places
the poison isn't, and what happens when the poison runs out or
decomposes.
On dry sailed, or trailered boats it's the wind or rain blown leaf
particles and dust that get in your boat and contain high amounts of
fungus spores that really accelerate decay if adaquate moisture is
present.
I'm an advocate of water permiable paint coatings (if any) on the
interior of my boats, and LOTS of ventilation to allow any moisture
absorbed by the wood to move out.
Well, you asked for comments........
Rick
The spores for wood decaying fungus are almost everywhere, even on a
fresh cut piece of lumber in your shop, and certianly on any board
that has been laying around. The fungus needs three things in order
to live and grow which are a certian range of both moisture and
temperature, and food. If you eliminate or significantly reduce any
of the three, rot will not occur. The food is your wood boat, so you
can't do anything about that. The temperatures that fungus love are
the same that most of us do, so not much can be done there. It's
moisture that can control fungus growth. Either too much water or too
little will prevent wood decaying fungus from growing.
Too much water in wood to support fungus growth has work well in plank
on frame boats built with decay resistant species of wood and kept in
the water. Boats with intermittent contact with water, built with less
decay resistant woods need to go the other way, keep the wood dry.
My problem with epoxy encapsulation is that if that barrier is
broached, nothing more than a small ding or crack, and moisture is
present, water will get into the wood and spread in the cell
structure of the wood. Then the encapsulation barrier will prevent
the moisture from escaping back into the atmosphere resulting in a
perfect enviroment to support wood decaying fungus.
The various poisons mentioned can kill or suppress fungus when it's
actively growing and the poison gets to it. But what about the places
the poison isn't, and what happens when the poison runs out or
decomposes.
On dry sailed, or trailered boats it's the wind or rain blown leaf
particles and dust that get in your boat and contain high amounts of
fungus spores that really accelerate decay if adaquate moisture is
present.
I'm an advocate of water permiable paint coatings (if any) on the
interior of my boats, and LOTS of ventilation to allow any moisture
absorbed by the wood to move out.
Well, you asked for comments........
Rick
>http://www.yachtsurvey.com/preventing_rot_in_encapsulated_wood.htm
> which recommends coating everything with epoxy, if you haven't
> already.
>
>
> > Comments?
I think toilet pucks won't work too well anyway because dry rot
isn't bacterial, I believe its a fungus.
There is a glucol and boric acid commercially avalable also, can't
remember the name offhand.
isn't bacterial, I believe its a fungus.
There is a glucol and boric acid commercially avalable also, can't
remember the name offhand.
--- In bolger@y..., "kayaker37" <kayaker37@h...> wrote:
>
> Aren't these somewhat poisonous to dogs, pets, children? How about
> salt blocks like they used to use in unencapsulated wooden boats,
and
> still recommended by some sites, for example
>
>http://www.mastmate.com/questions.htm
>
> Also of interest is
>http://www.yachtsurvey.com/preventing_rot_in_encapsulated_wood.htm
> which recommends coating everything with epoxy, if you haven't
> already.
>
> > In the non-self draining cockpit of my Chebacco, I have placed
> several toilet bowl pucks. On the theory that if they kill germs
in
> the toilet, they will kill the bugs that promote rot.
> >
> > Comments?
Aren't these somewhat poisonous to dogs, pets, children? How about
salt blocks like they used to use in unencapsulated wooden boats, and
still recommended by some sites, for example
http://www.mastmate.com/questions.htm
Also of interest is
http://www.yachtsurvey.com/preventing_rot_in_encapsulated_wood.htm
which recommends coating everything with epoxy, if you haven't
already.
the toilet, they will kill the bugs that promote rot.
salt blocks like they used to use in unencapsulated wooden boats, and
still recommended by some sites, for example
http://www.mastmate.com/questions.htm
Also of interest is
http://www.yachtsurvey.com/preventing_rot_in_encapsulated_wood.htm
which recommends coating everything with epoxy, if you haven't
already.
> In the non-self draining cockpit of my Chebacco, I have placedseveral toilet bowl pucks. On the theory that if they kill germs in
the toilet, they will kill the bugs that promote rot.
>
> Comments?
Borax is Boric acid and mixed with chlorine will put off toxic fumes
when mixed. Not a good idea.
Here is the manufacturers suggested surface coverage for Gluvit. With
Pigment added you get extra mileage. It also takes the place of paint
to save cost.
John
Available in 2# and 8# units.
2 lb. unit covers approx. 25-35 sq. ft. @ 6-8 mils.
when mixed. Not a good idea.
Here is the manufacturers suggested surface coverage for Gluvit. With
Pigment added you get extra mileage. It also takes the place of paint
to save cost.
John
Available in 2# and 8# units.
2 lb. unit covers approx. 25-35 sq. ft. @ 6-8 mils.
--- In bolger@y..., "jeff" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> Chlorine based would work fine! Sloosh around a little borax too!
>
> Jeff
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Spelling" <richard@c...>
> To: <bolger@y...>
> Sent: Monday, August 26, 2002 3:12 PM
> Subject: [bolger] preventing wood rot
>
>
> > In the non-self draining cockpit of my Chebacco, I have placed
several
> > toilet bowl pucks. On the theory that if they kill germs in the
toilet,
> they
> > will kill the bugs that promote rot.
> >
> > Comments?
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "announcer97624" <caj@k...>
> > To: <bolger@y...>
> > Sent: Monday, August 26, 2002 3:46 PM
> > Subject: [bolger] Re: Wyo
> >
> >
> > > Jeff, When I make waterproof compartments or areas like your
> > > concerned about I always paint them with Gluvit. Yes it is a
form of
> > > epoxy but it is very slow to harden and soaks in all the cracks
and
> > > crevices. Everybody knows it is not the water that is outside
the
> > > boat that rots the bottom of wooden bulkheads or frame pieces.
It is
> > > condensation and fresh water from rain that makes it's way into
those
> > > places and starts it's evil reaction with the wood. Gluvit will
> > > protect those areas and it will let the air absorb the water
instead
> > > of all the wood. Gluvit is also more flexible than other
epoxies and
> > > will not crack. I buy small used aluminum boats from people who
sell
> > > them because they have started to leak. Riveted boats are the
worst.
> > > I then coat them on the inside and out with Gluvit and it stops
all
> > > leaks.
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
posts
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and
<snip> away
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@y...
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
Chlorine based would work fine! Sloosh around a little borax too!
Jeff
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Spelling" <richard@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, August 26, 2002 3:12 PM
Subject: [bolger] preventing wood rot
> In the non-self draining cockpit of my Chebacco, I have placed several
> toilet bowl pucks. On the theory that if they kill germs in the toilet,
they
> will kill the bugs that promote rot.
>
> Comments?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "announcer97624" <caj@...>
> To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, August 26, 2002 3:46 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Wyo
>
>
> > Jeff, When I make waterproof compartments or areas like your
> > concerned about I always paint them with Gluvit. Yes it is a form of
> > epoxy but it is very slow to harden and soaks in all the cracks and
> > crevices. Everybody knows it is not the water that is outside the
> > boat that rots the bottom of wooden bulkheads or frame pieces. It is
> > condensation and fresh water from rain that makes it's way into those
> > places and starts it's evil reaction with the wood. Gluvit will
> > protect those areas and it will let the air absorb the water instead
> > of all the wood. Gluvit is also more flexible than other epoxies and
> > will not crack. I buy small used aluminum boats from people who sell
> > them because they have started to leak. Riveted boats are the worst.
> > I then coat them on the inside and out with Gluvit and it stops all
> > leaks.
> >
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
In the non-self draining cockpit of my Chebacco, I have placed several
toilet bowl pucks. On the theory that if they kill germs in the toilet, they
will kill the bugs that promote rot.
Comments?
toilet bowl pucks. On the theory that if they kill germs in the toilet, they
will kill the bugs that promote rot.
Comments?
----- Original Message -----
From: "announcer97624" <caj@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, August 26, 2002 3:46 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Wyo
> Jeff, When I make waterproof compartments or areas like your
> concerned about I always paint them with Gluvit. Yes it is a form of
> epoxy but it is very slow to harden and soaks in all the cracks and
> crevices. Everybody knows it is not the water that is outside the
> boat that rots the bottom of wooden bulkheads or frame pieces. It is
> condensation and fresh water from rain that makes it's way into those
> places and starts it's evil reaction with the wood. Gluvit will
> protect those areas and it will let the air absorb the water instead
> of all the wood. Gluvit is also more flexible than other epoxies and
> will not crack. I buy small used aluminum boats from people who sell
> them because they have started to leak. Riveted boats are the worst.
> I then coat them on the inside and out with Gluvit and it stops all
> leaks.
>