Re: [bolger] Re: aluminum boats
Where can I but UHMW in sheet form ?
Thanks
CCG
John Cupp wrote:It is Ultra High Molecular Weight plastic. It was originally
designed for factory applications where wear on metal was a problem
like chains or cables dragging against metal. When you use UHMW it
stops any friction and wear. I have used UHMW successfully on the
bottom of my drift boats and up the sides. I fish in large Pacific
Northwest rivers
for salmon and steelhead and hits on rocks that usually caused huge
holes in the bottoms or sides just caused noise.
When using UHMW you must be aware that if you have your boat sitting
on a launch ramp that you should tie it off or it will slide on the
slightest grade. It is only slightly less slippery than if it had
wheels. They now make it in rolls with sticky peel back paper that
will adhere to just about anything. I would trust epoxy though
because as we know marine applications can be extremely demanding.
John
Thanks
CCG
John Cupp wrote:It is Ultra High Molecular Weight plastic. It was originally
designed for factory applications where wear on metal was a problem
like chains or cables dragging against metal. When you use UHMW it
stops any friction and wear. I have used UHMW successfully on the
bottom of my drift boats and up the sides. I fish in large Pacific
Northwest rivers
for salmon and steelhead and hits on rocks that usually caused huge
holes in the bottoms or sides just caused noise.
When using UHMW you must be aware that if you have your boat sitting
on a launch ramp that you should tie it off or it will slide on the
slightest grade. It is only slightly less slippery than if it had
wheels. They now make it in rolls with sticky peel back paper that
will adhere to just about anything. I would trust epoxy though
because as we know marine applications can be extremely demanding.
John
--- In bolger@y..., Leoandsandy@J... wrote:
> What is UHMW? Leo
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Specifically, ultra high molecular weight polyethylene
If you can find epoxy that sticks to polyethylene, I will be truly
impressed. Or are you saying you can get it with the surface treatment
on one side that allows things to stick but without the contact
adhesive?
THe stuff is almost as slippery as teflon, but is tougher.
If you can find epoxy that sticks to polyethylene, I will be truly
impressed. Or are you saying you can get it with the surface treatment
on one side that allows things to stick but without the contact
adhesive?
THe stuff is almost as slippery as teflon, but is tougher.
--- In bolger@y..., "John Cupp" <caj@k...> wrote:
> It is Ultra High Molecular Weight plastic. snip
>They now make it in rolls with sticky peel back paper that
> will adhere to just about anything. I would trust epoxy though
> because as we know marine applications can be extremely demanding.
>
> John
It is Ultra High Molecular Weight plastic. It was originally
designed for factory applications where wear on metal was a problem
like chains or cables dragging against metal. When you use UHMW it
stops any friction and wear. I have used UHMW successfully on the
bottom of my drift boats and up the sides. I fish in large Pacific
Northwest rivers
for salmon and steelhead and hits on rocks that usually caused huge
holes in the bottoms or sides just caused noise.
When using UHMW you must be aware that if you have your boat sitting
on a launch ramp that you should tie it off or it will slide on the
slightest grade. It is only slightly less slippery than if it had
wheels. They now make it in rolls with sticky peel back paper that
will adhere to just about anything. I would trust epoxy though
because as we know marine applications can be extremely demanding.
John
designed for factory applications where wear on metal was a problem
like chains or cables dragging against metal. When you use UHMW it
stops any friction and wear. I have used UHMW successfully on the
bottom of my drift boats and up the sides. I fish in large Pacific
Northwest rivers
for salmon and steelhead and hits on rocks that usually caused huge
holes in the bottoms or sides just caused noise.
When using UHMW you must be aware that if you have your boat sitting
on a launch ramp that you should tie it off or it will slide on the
slightest grade. It is only slightly less slippery than if it had
wheels. They now make it in rolls with sticky peel back paper that
will adhere to just about anything. I would trust epoxy though
because as we know marine applications can be extremely demanding.
John
--- In bolger@y..., Leoandsandy@J... wrote:
> What is UHMW? Leo
What is UHMW? Leo
I'd love to try it out, but doesn't it have to be mechanically
fastened? This means screws/rivets, right?
We were on Grand Manaan last year, and the fishermen keep their
dories at various places around the island, hauled up on the cobble
beaches. The entire bottom and lower 6" of the gunwale is sheathed
with UHMW, screwed about every 6" on the edges.
They just slide down on the smooth rocks; a fixed winch (or pickup
truck?) at the top of the beach hauls them up.
What is kevlar felt?
fastened? This means screws/rivets, right?
We were on Grand Manaan last year, and the fishermen keep their
dories at various places around the island, hauled up on the cobble
beaches. The entire bottom and lower 6" of the gunwale is sheathed
with UHMW, screwed about every 6" on the edges.
They just slide down on the smooth rocks; a fixed winch (or pickup
truck?) at the top of the beach hauls them up.
What is kevlar felt?
--- In bolger@y..., "lowpine" <lowpineuno@a...> wrote:
> anyone try using 1/8" kevlar felt or UHMW as skid plate on the
keel?
> both materials are extremely durable.
>
> stevenj
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "sals_dad" <sals_dad@b...> wrote:
>
> > Best way to land is to gently nose up to a ledge, then gun the
> > throttle to get up on it, allowing kids/guests to safely exit.
Yes, I spoke with the folks at Winninghoff some time back. They do
great work; I've seen their boats around. Unfortunately, they
thought it would be impractical/expensive for them to build smaller
designs like Diablo and work skiffs.
Based on my experience with Teal, it's easy to cut out the panels,
and "stitch" them together with wire, drywall screws, temporary wood
blocks, duct tape, etc, then hire out the "gluing" to a local
welder. The finish isn't as nice as a pro shop, but that doesn't
bother me.
great work; I've seen their boats around. Unfortunately, they
thought it would be impractical/expensive for them to build smaller
designs like Diablo and work skiffs.
Based on my experience with Teal, it's easy to cut out the panels,
and "stitch" them together with wire, drywall screws, temporary wood
blocks, duct tape, etc, then hire out the "gluing" to a local
welder. The finish isn't as nice as a pro shop, but that doesn't
bother me.
--- In bolger@y..., "pvanderwaart" <pvanderw@o...> wrote:
>
> I assume you've looked at all the nice stuff at
>http://www.winninghoff.com/.They were the builders of Bolger's
> aluminum "landing craft - lawnmower," as well as other Bolger Al
> boats.
>
> Peter
anyone try using 1/8" kevlar felt or UHMW as skid plate on the keel?
both materials are extremely durable.
stevenj
both materials are extremely durable.
stevenj
--- In bolger@y..., "sals_dad" <sals_dad@b...> wrote:
> Best way to land is to gently nose up to a ledge, then gun the
> throttle to get up on it, allowing kids/guests to safely exit.
I assume you've looked at all the nice stuff at
http://www.winninghoff.com/.They were the builders of Bolger's
aluminum "landing craft - lawnmower," as well as other Bolger Al
boats.
Peter
http://www.winninghoff.com/.They were the builders of Bolger's
aluminum "landing craft - lawnmower," as well as other Bolger Al
boats.
Peter
In the Bolger2 group Photos, I set up a "Metal Boats" folder. Hope
to see some more posted.
A couple pics of Teal in there, I'll get some sailing photos when I
fix the tiller...
Teal is all 1/8" aluminum, cut with a carbide blade, and welded up by
a local guy. Distributor had a piece of plate 6' x 14', so I
streched the design to about 13.5', to use it up.
I had fastened wood rails to Teal's gunwale with 3M 5200, but they
peeled off as soon as I removed the drywall screws. Epoxy seems to
work better; some alum scraps are epoxied to Diablo's stem and bottom
for protection are holding up fine after a year of hard use.
With respect to buying a "stock" aluminum design, there are the same
issues as with any production boat: it just won't meet my particular
requirements. There are some nice big Deep V boats out there, but I
need shallow draft, rough ledge landings, manageable size/weight, etc.
For me, low maintenance and durability are vital. Boats are in the
water or pulled up on the ledges year-round, in Maine, and sometimes
are left out for a few years between uses. I hate to paint them.
Best way to land is to gently nose up to a ledge, then gun the
throttle to get up on it, allowing kids/guests to safely exit.
"blue_powered" <khaz@p...> wrote:
to see some more posted.
A couple pics of Teal in there, I'll get some sailing photos when I
fix the tiller...
Teal is all 1/8" aluminum, cut with a carbide blade, and welded up by
a local guy. Distributor had a piece of plate 6' x 14', so I
streched the design to about 13.5', to use it up.
I had fastened wood rails to Teal's gunwale with 3M 5200, but they
peeled off as soon as I removed the drywall screws. Epoxy seems to
work better; some alum scraps are epoxied to Diablo's stem and bottom
for protection are holding up fine after a year of hard use.
With respect to buying a "stock" aluminum design, there are the same
issues as with any production boat: it just won't meet my particular
requirements. There are some nice big Deep V boats out there, but I
need shallow draft, rough ledge landings, manageable size/weight, etc.
For me, low maintenance and durability are vital. Boats are in the
water or pulled up on the ledges year-round, in Maine, and sometimes
are left out for a few years between uses. I hate to paint them.
Best way to land is to gently nose up to a ledge, then gun the
throttle to get up on it, allowing kids/guests to safely exit.
"blue_powered" <khaz@p...> wrote:
> hey sal i posted a couple in the file marked diablo ...we used 1/4for
> bottom and transom 1/8 for everything else..used 1 1/4 pipe on thetop
> of sheet edge instead of a gunnel ,boats weight when done was 483lbs
> has foam in it also..i would like to see pics of what you have
> done.....
hey sal i posted a couple in the file marked diablo ...we used 1/4 for
bottom and transom 1/8 for everything else..used 1 1/4 pipe on the top
of sheet edge instead of a gunnel ,boats weight when done was 483lbs
has foam in it also..i would like to see pics of what you have
done.....
bottom and transom 1/8 for everything else..used 1 1/4 pipe on the top
of sheet edge instead of a gunnel ,boats weight when done was 483lbs
has foam in it also..i would like to see pics of what you have
done.....